issue 1
sheffield
contents 7-18
welcome to Sheffield
19-28 where did it all go wrong? 29-42 Sheffield’s second-hand hotspots 43-52 rave thrifting 53-56 6 small changes you can make to live a less wasteful lifestyle 57-58 the virtual future of sustainable fashion
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trash’s mission Introducing TRASH, a quarterly digital and physical publication which aims to raise awareness of the seriously damaging environmental issues that the fashion industry is facing. At TRASH, we realise that the majority of sustainable and ethical fashion brands usually come with a high price tag, and we also realise that fashion is about experimentation, creativity, and individuality, which is why we believe that second-hand is the way forward. Not only does second-hand shopping allow us to breathe new life into garments that were once considered as junk, it also allows us to find completely unique pieces for a very fair price. TRASH aims to shift society’s attitudes towards a more circular economy and encourage consumers to reconsider their purchasing habits and question our constant desire for newness. We also aim to give consumers striving to live more conscious and responsible lives a platform where they can explore ways of becoming less harmful to the planet whilst providing them with meaningful, creative content.
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editor’s letter As throwaway fashion is becoming increasingly more accessible, it is imperative that we as consumers fight against the unsustainable and uncircular practices that are being used to exploit the fashion industry. Day by day, fashion is losing its purpose, it is becoming cheap, cloned and counterfeit rather than creative, authentic and expressive. The issues that the fashion industry is facing today is endless, making it the second largest polluter in the world, which is putting pressure on businesses to implement sustainable practices into their business models, but nowhere near enough is being done about it. As more and more high street brands are hopping on the responsible bandwagon, words such as ‘sustainable’ ‘recycled’ and ‘biodegradable’
are being misappropriated and is misleading consumers to think they are helping the planet. This greenwashing tactic has created confusion around what is sustainable and what isn’t, yet the truth is there is no sustainable way to make new products. Of course, there are many ways of making products in a more responsible way, for example making polyester from recycled plastic, yet this still requires energy along with other new materials, and during its life span, polyester releases billions of billions of microplastics into the ocean. At TRASH, we believe that the only way to be truly circular, is to work with what we have, and drastically minimise society’s overconsumption habits to shift their attitudes towards wasting less and thinking more.
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Welcome to sheffield WELCOME TO SHEFFIELD – AKA “Steel City”. It may not be the largest city in the UK, but Sheffield is known for many things and has a very rich history, along with a great selection of social hubs that cater to a variety of different scenes. If you are completely new to Sheffield, you may just know it as the place where The Full Monty is set, yet you will soon discover that it is a thriving city with so much to offer and has a real sense of community and creativity.
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Sheffield has a booming music scene and caters for a range of different nights depending on your personal taste. As you may know, Sheffield is home to the popular Indie Rock band The Arctic Monkeys which has certainly put it on the map as a hub for Indie/ Alternative music. If this is your scene, places such as The Leadmill are for you, whether you prefer to go to gigs or just rock out to your favourite ballads, you are almost guaranteed to have a fantastic night at The Leadmill due to its legendary, electric atmosphere. Of course, Sheffield has much more to offer than just this, if electronic music is your vibe then you’re in for a treat. The well-known venue Tank situated near the train station is a popular destination for electro/dance music lovers, Tank usually holds nights dedicated to a certain genre, the main ones being tech/ house and bassline and the venue has hosted nights with some very famous faces such as Camelphat and Fisher. If you prefer a more underground vibe, Hope Works is a great
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venue that holds club nights in their authentic warehouse space amongst artists such as Dusky and Mall Grab. If rap and hip hop is your thing, Sheffield has you covered. The city centre has a wide range of bars/clubs that play a range of hip hop classics and more modern tracks, Paris, Situated on Carver Street, has a stylish and dressy atmosphere, whilst clubs such as Area and Corporation have more of a casual, student feel and also offer different genres such as house, pop and rock as they both have multiple rooms which is great if you’re a love a variation of music! Sheffield’s nightlife is endless; if you are not genre specific and just love to see where the night takes you then it has a lot to offer. Packed with bars, pubs, clubs and everything in between, Sheffield’s infamous West Street is a great place to start. Situated right at the start of the street, West Street Live is a great place to start your night as it has a compact, friendly atmosphere and a varied mix of live bands and DJ’s.
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Sheffield’s city centre is great for shopping, and it is well known for its varied range of second-hand stores, each with its own unique identity. Sheffield itself is a notoriously student dominated city, as it holds two popular universities which has generated a huge demand for creative, individual pieces at a fair, budget-friendly price. You are almost certainly guaranteed to find a secondhand store that suits your personal style – keep reading to discover our faves!
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Where did it all go wrong? Overconsumption has been a huge topic within the fashion industry recently and Western countries are typically treating garments as disposable – but when did our obsession with constant newness become the norm?
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Overconsumption has been a huge topic within the fashion industry recently as Western countries are typically treating garments as disposable – but when and why did our obsession with constant newness become the norm? Once upon a time, fashion was slow – it was only consumed when it was necessary and needed and was generally considered as luxury. Within this time, materials were costly and difficult to source, and the time and skill needed to construct a garment was very intensive compared to modern day society. After the industrial revolution, innovative technology such as the sewing machine enabled individuals to make clothing easier, faster and cheaper which enabled the fashion industry to thrive. Overtime, as the average consumer’s disposable income has increased and clothing has become more obtainable than ever, our desire for newness has become an obsession with buying as much possible for the lowest price, and the cheap prices that we are bombarded with every day is de-valuing clothes and warping society’s perception of what good value is. Fashion gives us meaning and expresses our identity, and it gives us the opportunity to communicate our values and culture. Historically, clothing was a display of wealth and class and the garments we wore defined our origin and culture.
to a huge growth and demand for ‘fast fashion’ – a term used to describe the fast and low-cost production of this segment which responds to ever-changing micro-trends. A recent report by the UK parliament states that the UK buys more clothing per person than any country in Europe, which shows that us Brits are the main culprit when it comes to binge buying. Cheap fashion has never been so accessible to the average consumer. Thanks to advanced technology, online fast fashion can be bought and sent straight to your door with very little thought and effort which is encouraging consumers to make excessive impulse purchases with no or little consideration of the environmental cost involved. The rise of social media influencers constantly posting sponsored content of brand-new clothing featuring the latest seasons “must haves” has certainly distorted the views of many consumers. This marketing tactic has ultimately resulted in an increase in society’s desire for newness, which is undoubtedly contributing to the world’s overconsumption crisis. Influencers have become a hugely powerful marketing tool for brands over the years, yet as consumers of this content, we have the capability to confront and combat this persuasive type of marketing that brands use to increase sales and gain popularity.
The growth in accessibility of affordable clothing has resulted in changing consumer attitudes towards their purchasing habits. Society’s obsessive, impulsive purchasing habits has led
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“LESS THAN 1% OF MATERIAL USED TO PRODUCE CLOTHING IS RECYCLED INTO NEW CLOTHING AT THE END OF ITS LIFE” House of Commons, Environmental Audit Committee, 2019 22
“AROUND 300,000 TONNES OF TEXTILE WASTE ENDS UP IN HOUSEHOLD BLACK BINS EVERY YEAR, SENT TO LANDFILL OR INCINERATORS” House of Commons, Environmental Audit Committee, 2019 23
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Influencers and brands need to be held responsible for brainwashing their consumers into the throwaway culture we are facing. By raising awareness of the impact of influencer marketing and promoting more responsible alternatives to cheap single use clothing, a positive shift towards a more circular economy within fashion can certainly take place. There are a huge range of conscious fashion influencers out there, such as @Renee.elizabethpeters and @Stevieyaaaay on Instagram, so you can still view inspiring, fashion-orientated content whilst being kinder to the planet! The range of alternatives to fast fashion is endless, with so much clothing already in the world, it is vital that we work with what we have and constantly re-work, re-think, re-cycle and re-purpose. Just some of the possible ways of consciously re-working your wardrobe include swapping with friends or at local swap shops, alter/customize your clothing yourself, there are thousands of free DIY tutorials out there! And of course - SHOP SECOND-HAND!
our unnecessary purchasing habits, and make them question “do I really need this?” “how many times will I actually wear this?” and “will I truly value this item?”. More consideration of the true cost of purchasing a garment needs to happen in order to shift fashion towards a more sustainable industry. It is vital that the brands and organisations that are promoting responsible and sustainable practices such as Fashion Revolution, Fashion for Good and Eco-age are used to aid us gain industry knowledge and inspiration to guide the fashion industry in the right direction. It is imperative that more education and awareness is put in place to make consumers think twice about their attitudes and consumption habits, as the fashion industry’s dirty secrets are not commonly known to the average consumer. The fashion industry is not going to change overnight, but every small step we take is a push towards more circularity, transparency and responsibility, and we will collectively make a positive impact and transform societal norms.
As a society, it is essential that we are constantly seeking alternatives to buying new. Fashion should be about circularity, creativity and community, it should encourage consumers to experiment and embody their individual style, at a minimal environmental cost. Although we are starting to see a slight shift in consumer behaviour as more individuals are becoming more aware of fashion’s many environmental issues, much more action needs to be put in place. As consumers, we have the power to demand more effort from brands to re-consider their business models. We can educate friends and family on the effect of
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SHEFFIELD’s second hand hotspots
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SHEFFIELD’S CITY CENTRE HAS AN EXTENSIVE RANGE OF SECONDHAND SHOPS, RANGING FROM AMAZING VALUE CHARITY SHOPS TO CAREFULLY CONSIDERED VINTAGE STORES STOCKING BUDGETFRIENDLY REWORKED PIECES TO ONE-OFF LUXURY GEMS!
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take a closer look...
vulgar Situated right in the heart of Sheffield’s student district on Devonshire Street, Vulgar is an eccentrically curated space bursting with tonnes of unique pieces that scream 90’s vibes! Compared to its competitors, Vulgar is certainly student and budget friendly, offering cute reworked cropped tops for £16 and quirky handcrafted earrings from £6, bargain!
Vulgar are extremely active on their Instagram account (@vulgarshop), frequently posting styled outfits featuring their one-off unique pieces as well as current offers that they have in store. Vulgar’s décor certainly lives up to its name – the store itself is a quirky collection of weird and wonderful items that embody the Vulgar brand.
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R.A.G vintage Located just outside of Sheffield’s main independent shopping sector on Norfolk Steet, R.A.G (Reused and Green) has a slightly more thrift shop vibe compared to Vulgar along with a more minimal, stripped-back interior.
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R.A.G is also a great example of how good quality vintage garments don’t have to break the bank – over Christmas they were offering an amazing 25% off everything! R.A.G clearly has a strong focus on sustainability, made evident by the huge quote next to their entrance expressing the huge impact of clothing production which is a great way to educate and inspire their customers as well as encourage them to shop second-hand.
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Ravers! Check out our styling tips designed to help keep you comfortable yet feeling fresh and individual - the best thing about rave thrifting is you’re guaranteed to be the only one wearing your unique outfit. The majority of garments and styling tips used in this series are genderless, so guys and girls keep reading! As always, all items featured are vintage, which means that you won’t be able to exactly re-create the looks, but the outfits are designed to inspire you so you can re-create them with clothing you already have or from your local second-hand store!
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6 small changes you can make to live a less wasteful lifestyle Everyone knows that living a sustainable lifestyle is not always as easy and straightforward as we’d like, and sometimes it’s easy to let convenience get in the way of being the most conscious version of ourselves. Which is why we are sharing our simple and effective tips on how you can easily achieve this, and to make things even better, some of these tips will even save you money AND time, whilst decluttering your life - WIN-WIN!
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get a reusable water bottle
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This may seem like an obvious one, but the effectiveness of a re-usable water bottle it is often overlooked. Each year, around 12.7 million tonnes of plastic is dumped into the ocean, yet by switching to a re-usable water bottle, you could potentially save 150 plastic bottles from entering the ocean/landfills. Re-usable water bottles are also a huge money saver as tap water is completely free! Another tip - download the app ‘Refill’ to discover your free local refill stations.
‘project pan’ Project pan is a term that was created to encourage consumers to use or “hit pan” on their cosmetics, the concept was initially created to help de-clutter individual’s makeup collections and to ensure they were using up products before buying new ones. Although project pan is usually enforced to reduce clutter, the idea can certainly help us become less wasteful as it aids us to become more mindful of our consumption and purchasing habits.
always take your re-usable bags to the shops!
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This may also seem like a really obvious one but forgetting bags to the shops can easily be done so it is important to stay organised and plan ahead when shopping. A simple way of always remembering a bag is always keep a tote/ plastic bag in your handbag, they barely take up any room and you will thank yourself when you make that impromptu shopping trip!
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swap!
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Swapping is a great way to give your wardrobe that little refresh that it needs. We can all get bored of the clothes we own, and we’ve all got at least one item that has had no/little wear, which is why swapping is a true win-win situation! All major cities across the UK hold swap shops as they are becoming increasingly popular - and they are easy to organize by yourself with the help of family and friends.
buy plastic free fruit and veg when possible According to government figures, the UK uses 5 million tonnes of plastic each year, and packaging accounts for half of this. As plastic waste has become a huge topic recently, many businesses are trying to tackle their single use plastic usage, and it has certainly made consumers more aware of how they can reduce theirs. Saying no to plastic free veg when possible is an effective way of reducing plastic consumption and can also be a money saver as loose veg can be cheaper than the pre-packaged equivalent.
invest in re-usable makeup remover pads
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Re-usable alternatives to single use products are on the rise, such as straws and cutlery. Although makeup wipes and cotton pads may not seem as environmentally impactful as plastic items, they are still significantly contributing to landfill waste. According to a Mintel report, 69% of respondents agree that it is important to limit the amount of disposable beauty products we use. Re-usable makeup remover pads are also great to incorporate into your routine as they will certainly save you money in the long-term!
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the virtual future of sustainable fashion As designers seek new innovative ways to produce clothing with a more responsible and less wasteful approach, virtual fashion is the latest phenomenon that is fascinating industry players and modernizing how fashion is designed, produced and consumed.
to Wateraid. Carlings are also producers of tangible products, but their clothing does have a focus on environmental issues and the brand has implemented numerous responsible practices into their production process.
As more and more people are choosing to live and share their lives online, virtual fashion is certainly relevant to the modern-day fashion-conscious consumer. In a world where consumers (especially Gen Z and Millennials) feel pressure to constantly wear current and influential pieces, with many scared to re-wear them after wearing them once on an Instagram picture, virtual fashion makes complete sense. The Scandinavian fashion retailer Carlings has been a key player in the rise of digital clothing. After launching their first digital clothing collection titled “Neo-Ex� in November 2018, the brand has received a lot of attention. The genderless collection was made in response to the damaging impact of fashion production and consumption, with all the profits being donated
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image courtesy of Carlings
The video-game inspired collection ranges from $10 - $30, which are very reasonable prices considering the eccentric designs within the collection - that would usually cost much more for the physical product. Although the rise of digital fashion has been a highly intriguing subject within fashion recently, there are a number of complications that the concept is facing. The main one being how much a consumer is prepared to pay for a virtual item that will ultimately only exist on an online image.
image courtesy of Carlings
The process works by consumers firstly choosing the product they want, then they send Carlings a photograph of themselves that they want the garment to be fitted to, and Carlings’ 3D Tailors digitally fit the garment to their unique body shape, giving extremely realistic results.
The truth is, most consumers will not value a digital item as much as a tangible one - which does raise issues of further growth of the concept, yet with sustainability and waste at the forefront of many organisation’s and consumer’s minds, innovative ideas like this could be the answer we are looking for.
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