How Youth Fashion Marketing has Changed and Developed
Rachel Jolley- U1558403
Contents Page Introduction
1
Fashion Marketing
2
Twitter and the Youth Market Levels Low
3-4 5 6
Primark
7-9
H&M
10-12
Medium
13
ASOS
14-16
Topshop
17-19
Mango
20-22
High-Medium
23
Zara
24-26
Urban Outfitters
27-29
Designer Brands
30
Superdry
31-33
Jack Wills
34-36
Ted Baker
37-39
Summary of Primary Research
40
Conclusion
41-42
References
43-45
Appendix
Page 1.
Introduction
‘The youth fashion market grew by 1.8% to £16.5 billion in 2016’ according to Mintel (2016), however ‘the youth market is declining and young women are spending less on clothing.’ (Mintel, 2016). But to counteract this young men from the ages of sixteen to twenty-four have increased their clothing shopping habits, and this is risen to 48% in 2016, which was previously 41% in 2014 (Mintel, 2016). Overall the youth are more influenced by what their friends and celebrities are wearing, rather than being influenced by the original advertising techniques, which is why many online brands have worked hard to make sure they are well known throughout social media (Mintel, 2016). Therefore the aim of this report is to compare ten fashion retailers, ranging from discounter to designer brands, and how they are targeting their target market via the social media Twitter. How they are doing so, and if they are being successful. The objectives to find out this aim are to: find ten youth targeting retailers and how well they are keeping up to date on their Twitter accounts. Along with how regularly they are updating and how many responses they receive from doing so. Finding out how they are marketing towards their audience via Twitter, resulting in determining if their are marketing to their target market successfully, when it comes to what it is the youth market wants. To gather all of the information to answer the main aim and objectives I will use a range of the retailers websites, store visits, theory books, and journals, therefore using a range of primary and secondary research analysis. From doing this I hope to find out how the retailers target their audience using Twitter and how it differs from the traditional ways. The ten youth fashion retailers that this report will focus on are: Primark, H&M, ASOS, Topshop, Mango, Zara, Urban Outfitters, Superdry, Jack Wills, and Ted Baker.
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Fashion Marketing ‘Fashion marketing is the application of a range of techniques and a business philosophy that centres upon the customer and potential customer of clothing and related products and services in order to meet the long-term goals of the organisation.’ (Easey, 2009). ‘The internet has become an important marketing medium for fashion merchandise. Some marketers are replacing their use of radio and print advertising with internet advertising. This is based on declining newspaper sales and increasing satellite subscriptions that are void of commercials.... Internet advertising is beneficial to fashion marketers in a wide bracket of target markets, especially as Youtube, Twitter and other social media marketing sites are enormously popular among the consumers and fashion industry alike. (Moore, 2012)...As David Lauren states that one form of promotion or advertising is not sufficient to successfully communicate a company’s brand.’ (Bickle, 2011). Bickle (2011) explains that there are several ways in which fashion brands can market towards their customer, however all are split into four categories: traditional, electronic, social, and personal. As times have and are still changing, the more traditional ways of marketing, such as newspaper and television are no longer as successful when it comes to targeting the youth (Moore, 2012), so because of this brands have seeked out new ways, like social media, especially Twitter. As the fashion market is forever changing, it means the fashion marketing industry is too (Easey, 2009). The marketing of fashion brands and garments needs to be as uptodate as the customers that are being targeted, and for youth fashion retailers, this needs to be as current as possible. ‘Fashion marketers are interested in consumer attitudes as they are seen to be closely linked to behaviour’ which reflects the fact that consumers are changing and that retailers need to be too (Easey, 2009). For a retailer to be successful they must work out what it is their customer is going to want next, then making sure that they are the first brand that is thought of to help eliminate the rest of the competition, before finally encouraging the customer to make a purchase (Rath, Petrizzi & Gill (2012). However this is not the last stage of the process, the customer then needs to be happy and satisfied with their purchase, because if not then it could result in them not wanting to shop with that retailer again, and with the high use of Twitter, it makes it easy for customers to leave a negative comment on a retailer's page (Rath et al, 2012). But along with this Easey (2009) explains that the marketing for the brand/ retailer needs to reflect them and the products they sell, for example Dior advertising an eye-shadow palette in a television ad with a man holding the palette against a red background, would portray that the product was not only on sale but also for men, which is not how Dior would portray this product. This means that brands need to pay close attention to how they do market, and make sure that it is a true reflection of themselves, and also a true reflection of their customers, especially now as there is so much competition from not only domestic brands but also ones from across the globe (Easey, 2009). This has resulted in brick in mortar stores no longer being able to attract customers how they used to, a storefront in London is not going to help attract customers who live in California, ‘they no longer have the physical impact, and their presence alone is not enough’ which is another reason why brands have turned to social media to help engage customers; along with it being an extremely cheap and easy way to reach them (Easey, 2009). A fashion marketing process model created by Vanessa Han and Alicia Freile demonstrates how Twitter can help this process, and this can be shown in figure 1. Twitter helps retailers to be able to inform their customers of product benefits and also gather customer feedback, which is why further on in the report the responses from followers are discussed, as the feedback can help brands gauge how well they are doing in the eyes of their customers.
7. Gather customer feedback for potential product improvement 6. Evaluate product sales over time
1. Identify and analyse the potential target market
Fashion Marketing Process
5. Inform the public of product benefits
Figure 1: Fashion Marketing Process Model, adapted from V Han & A Freile
2. Conceive the product to meet customer wants/ needs
3. Plan product price and production
4. Place the product where the customers can buy it
Page 3.
Twitter and the Youth
Twitter was established back in 2006 and ‘is a global platform for public self-expression and conversation in real time. By developing a fundamentally new way for people to consume, create, distribute and discover content, Twitter enables any voice to echo around the world instantly and unfiltered.’ (Linkedin, n.d.). Twitter users are able to create tweets but with only a certain amount of characters, and are able to follow their friends, celebrities and brands, being able to only see the information they choose on their homepage. With this Twitter continues to grow with popularity, with over 150,000 tweets about brands alone were recorded in 2015 (Huan, 2015). Moore states that the ‘key thing for brands to remember when connecting with people via social media is that it is all about being “social”. Brands that attempt to be too corporate and commercial in their social media activity generally experience lower levels of success. Communicating effectively through social media takes time, consistency, an understanding of the audience you are trying to reach.’ Twitter is a useful tool when it comes to retailers promoting their products, especially when the target market is Millenials and the older generation of Generation Z as they make up the 36% of young adults that are on the social media network according to Greenwood, Perrin, & Duggan, (2016). By using Twitter brands are able to promote themselves in anyway they like, and are able to include images and links to their website to encourage the youth to be interested, interact and to purchase. However before retailers are able to entice their customers to make a purchase they first need to get them to be aware of the brand and then make them want to follow them on Twitter. To do this brands need to have marketed themselves else where and be a retailer that their target market would like to shop at, also reflecting their personality online as well as in their stores, this way customers will be more inclined to follow them on Twitter. ‘Fashion is a critical means of expression for these young consumers, who are in the process of defining their identities. They are strongly influenced by their peers, who guide their fashion choices, look, and self-appreciation… They are sensitive to fashion changes that signal their continued inclusion in a group they choose to belong to.’ (Le Bon, 2015). Resulting in ‘teenage spending power for fashion products increasing significantly, spending an average of $135 monthly on apparel and accessories in France and America where their yearly clothing expenditures are estimated to account for approximately 6% of household budgets’ (Le Bon, 2015). ‘Retailers have recognised the potential profitability of these young shoppers and have adapted their assortments accordingly’ (Le Bon, 2015) which can be seen in not only the youth targeted retailer, as in the past they have had to dress like their parents but also how they market towards them, especially through the use of social media (Le Bon, 2015). ‘To exist in a social environment, people need a point of reference, which often is established by groups. Thus, affecting people's decision process for fashion products, and we can identify three main influences on fashion shoppers: internalisation, identification, and compliance.’ (Le Bon, 2015; Bickle, 2011). Internalisation is described as ‘accepting others influence because they perceive it as a means to resolve their own issues. Fashion shoppers may find a solution to an uncertain social position by adopting others’ fashion choices.’ (Le Bon, 2015). Le Bon (2015) describes identification as ‘people identifying with a group because they perceive doing so as satisfying. This identification occurs because fashion customers foresee benefits of being part of a group.’ Finally compliance is where ‘people choose to adopt fashion apparel and accessories to conform with the group and obtain a benefit or prevent retribution.’ (Le Bon, 2015). Internalisation and identification are both circumstances that bode well with brands on their twitter accounts, whether it be through them creating a strong image for themselves and showing how their customer should/ could be, or whether it be through the use of influencers promoting the products. Using both scenarios to describe the youth, influencers work well for brands and according to Easey (2009) are becoming increasingly popular. For example Zoella. She can promote a brand or product, and many of her viewers or followers will also use their time to have a look into said brand or product, and more often than not purchase it themselves, showing how much of a strong influence celebrities and brands can have on their customers. For example Ted Baker portrays itself as a well put togther brand, and this represents the customers that go in stores and purchase products, the brand has its identity well established (Moore, 2012). Le Bon (2015) and Moore (2012) backs up the importance of celebrities when it comes to promoting products, but also stresses that having a celebrity promote a brand can also bring negative views to them, as if the influencer does something that their followers are unhappy with then it could stop them from thinking as highly about that brand. Haun (2015) found that ‘people viewed celebrities with a higher number of followers as a more credible source... In addition, they found the positive tweets by the celebrity with a high number of followers significantly influenced people’s consumption behaviours.’ Several brands have used a celebrity or unfluencer to help promote their products through the use of twitter. One example is a model from Los Angeles who promotes a hair care treatment through her account, by tweeting images of her using the product following with tweets saying how much it has benefited her hair (Twitter, n.d.). However both brands and influencers of products need to make sure that they are keeping their accounts updated and regularly post. By not doing so it could result in customers becoming bored, causing them to stop visiting the Twitter pages before eventually forgetting about the brand altogether. But by posting regularly it means that customers will be reminded by the brand every time they scroll down their homepage as
Page 4.
a tweet will be there, and if not they are more than likely to go and visit their account to see if there is anything they have missed, keeping themselves trule engaged. Haun (2015) found that for American college students marketing used by brands was not very effective at selling them products, especially as many of them do not follow brands in the first place, which means that they never see any information about the brands on their newsfeed. Also it was stated that when they do come across a piece of promotional advertising it is ‘non-targeted and noticeable’ displaying that they do not pay a lot of attention to it however that they are aware of it being presented to them (Haun, 2015). This means that Twitter users are able to decide which brands and retailers they want to see and which ones they do not, which makes it harder for brands to target new customers through the use of Twitter. However if a consumer is following a brand then Haun (2015) found that the students do not necessarily pay attention to it, but rather just carry on scrolling through. From this Haun’s (2015) article came to the conclusion that Twitter was better used for marketers as a way to ‘intrigue cognitive effects on consumers such as brand recall and recognition’, also that so the youth notice and pay attention to the promotions on the social media, it would be better if the tweets had ‘personal relevance and an entertaining element.’ Nonetheless brands and retailers already use hyperlinks and celebrity endorsement to make tweets more interesting for their viewers. However even though the college students did not feel as though Twitter was the best way for brands to market their products, they did feel as though it was great way for them to follow and see what their favourite celebrities were up to. This being said as mentioned previously, the use of celebrity endorsement is a great benefit to retailers, especially if the celebrity is followed by many younger people, as they will see what they are up to when they go onto their Twitter. According to Le Bron (2015) even though ‘fashion opinion leaders are not necessarily celebrities, they have a great influence on others in their social environment, such that their influence is recognised by others. In contrast fashion followers… rely on others’ choices to make their own decisions.’ Showing that the youth enjoy and appreciate the use of celebrity endorsements. Along with this Moore (2012) and Rath et al (2012) acknowledges the fact that Twitter is an easy way for consumers and brands to communicate, giving brands a quick and easy way to receive feedback and see for themselves how they are doing compared to their competitors, along with giving smaller brands the ability to compete with much larger ones when it comes to publicity. But also gives the retailers the quick ability to update their customers at anytime, for example if they have had a high number of people asking about when a specific item will be back in stock, simply tweeting when it is will be seen by all of their followers, quickly updating them and letting them know that the desired product is now available to them (Rath et al, 2012).
Page 5.
Market Levels
Figure 2: Retailer Model. Jackson & Shaw (2009)
The next section of the report shows how often and how many responses each of the ten fashion retailers receives via Twitter. At least one of the ten are of either a mass, middle or upper fashion market level, helping to get a variation of how the different markets attract their customers using the social media.
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Mass Market Bhasin (2017) describes mass market as ‘ a general population that can be targeted at wide for the sales and marketing of a product… and contains many diverse demographics’ meaning that the retailer has many more customers to target their products at. ‘It is defined as a term used for the largest group of consumers for a specified products.’ (Bhasin, 2017).
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Figure 3: Primark Model
Primark
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Primark is a discount retailer which specialises in selling a range of homeware, accessories and clothing for everyone from adults to children. They recently became an online retailer aswell, however they do not offer all of their products online just a proportion, which is likely to be due to the vast amount and variety they have in all of their stores, which would make it difficult for them to offer their full range online (Primark, n.d.). When it comes to their Twitter account they have used their Snapchat QR code as their image, encouraging their followers to add another one of Primark’s social medias.
Figure 5: Primark Screenshots
ÂŁ3.00
ÂŁ6.00 Figure 4: Primark Clothing
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Figure 6: Primark Tweets
Figure 6 above shows the breakdown of one week’s worth of Primark’s tweets. It has shown that overall Primark tweeted a total of seventy times, and a high portion of those was about clothing, whilst only twelve of them were about beauty and other unrelated product issues. As mentioned previously the youth prefer it when tweets are either more targeted or more entertaining and contain the use of hyperlinks to make their lives easier to purchase the products talked about in the tweets. Out of all primark’s tweets they had a low 34% of them which did not contain a hyperlink, which as they do not have all of their items being sold through their website, is quite a low percentage. On average their tweets were commented on 0.67 times, re-tweeted 17.90, and likes 38.81 times, showing that their highest amount interactive from their followers comes from likes.
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Figure 7: H&M Models
H&M
Figure 2: primark Clothing
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H&M belongs to the H&M Group, who consists of ‘H&M COS, & Other Stories, Monki, Weekday and Cheap Monday’ all of which are ‘united by a passion for fashion and quality and the drive to dress customers in a sustainable way’ (H&M, n.d.). In recent years H&M has taken their sustainability to new levels with the introduction of their in store clothing recycling bins and their use of organic and recyclable materials, which is something H&M prides itself in (H&M, n.d.).
£6.99
£6.99 Figure 8: H&M Clothing
Figure 9: H&M Screen Shots
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Figure 10: H&M’s Tweets
H&M’s tweets shown in figure 10 show that two of their tweets were exactly the same and on the same day, showing that only 20 of their tweets were individual out of their overall twentyone which were created during the week. 62% of their tweets were about clothing, however 71% of their tweets had an image that would suggest that the tweet was about clothing. On average they received 4.57 comments on every tweet, 62.81 comments and 326.05 likes.
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Medium Market Level Posner (2011) explains that middle market fashion is ‘designed and priced to cater for customers wishing to purchase at a level between luxury and mass market… claiming they are affordable luxury.’
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Figure 11: ASOS’s Model
ASOS
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ASOS is a medium market fashion store which can be seen by their mass market target audience and their range of low to medium pricing (ASOS, n.d.). They sell a range of products on their website, ranging from men’s and women’s clothing to also accessories, whether it be their own brand or other brands, and were one of the first online only fashion retailer (ASOS, n.d.). They use their Twitter to promote their products in several ways, and one of them being by creating OOTDs (outfit of the day) which is very popular among the blogging community and helps ASOS to create their individuality, and to become more of a personality than just another retailer.
£10.00
£8.00 Figure 12: ASOS’s Cothing
Figure 13: ASOS’s Screen Shots
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Figure13: ASOS’s Tweets
Figure 13 shows that over the course of one week ASOS posted a total of seventy tweets, with 51% of them being about the clothing they sell, 14% about accessories, 15% about beauty and 20% about something that does not related to the products they sell. However there was a total of six repeated tweets and two images that were unclear and did not relate very well too the tweet. But overall they received on average 0.44 comments, 20.26 re-tweets, and 48.17 likes, showing that the majority of the customer feedback is in the form of likes rather than anything else.
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Figure 14: Topshop Model
Topshop
Page 18.
Topshop is a higher end high street store that sells a range of both clothing, accessories and own brand makeup to women between the ages of 16 and 24 (Topshop, n.d.) Topshop is part of the Arcadia group and is well known for being the go to store for the latest trends for young women when it comes to the highstreet.
ÂŁ12.00
ÂŁ12.00 Figure 15: Topshop Clothing
Figure 16: Topshop Screen Shots
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Figure 17: Topshop Clothing
Topshops tweets shown in figure 17 show that they tweeted a total of one hundred and thirty times in one week with seventy four of them being about clothing and sixteen of them being about accessories, and every tweet had a link to their website, which according to Haun (2015) is an important element to attract the youth from viewing the tweet. On average Topshop received a total of 1.24 comments per tweet, 11.75 re-tweets, and 82.62 likes per tweet. Reflecting that by keeping their social media account regularly updated, they received a high amount of interaction from their followers.
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Figure 18: Mango Model
Mango
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‘Mango is an internationally famous multinational which designs, manufactures and markets women’s and men’s clothing and accessories.’ (Mango, n.d.) They have a ‘highly-defined concept based on a quality product with original design and a coherent and unified brand image.’ and can be found in 107 countries across the world (Mango, n.d.).
£12.99
£17.99 Figure 19: Mango Clothing
Figure 20: Mango Screen Shots
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Figure 21: Mango Tweets
Figure 21 shows that during the week Mango only tweeted ten times, which compared to some of the other retailers is not a lot at all. Even so they did have a link within their tweet for every single one, which is something that Haun (2015) found to be something that American college students prefered in tweets, however just under half of the tweets were dedicated to their new editorial, which is not likely to be something that their youth followers will be purchasing. Even so they received on average 0.2 comments per tweet, 9.3 retweets per tweet and, 31.1 likes per tweet. Resulting in only 20% of the tweets receiving a comment which is quite a low response, as this makes it difficult for Mango to know whether or not the items they are showing is something that their followers are enjoying purchasing from them.
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High-Medium Market Level
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Figure 22: Zara Model
Zara
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Zara is men’s women’s and children’s fashion retailer that belongs to the Inditex group, who say that their ‘customer is at the heart of their unique business model, which includes design, production, distribution, and sales through their extensive’ (Zara, n.d.). Zara are well known for their classic basics and clean sophisticated garments.
Figure 24: Zara Clothing
£15.99 £19.00 Figure 23: Zara Clothing
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Figure 24: Zara Tweets
Figure figure 24 above shows that Zara use their Twitter for mostly promoting their editorials, as this can be seen by the fact that 78% of their tweets are dedicated to it, and only 22% dedicated to promoting their clothing. On average each of their tweets in the week commencing April 29th received 1.27 comments, 25 retweets, and 116.83, which shows that likes again, is their greatest form of follower feedback.
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Figure 25: Urban Outfitters Models
Urban Outfitters
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Urban Outfitters is a ‘lifestyle retailer dedicated to inspiring customers through a unique combination of product, creativity and cultural understanding… operating in the United States, Canada and Europe, offering experimental retail environment and a well-curated mix of women’s, men’s, accessories and homeware.’ (Urbn, n.d.). Urban Outfitters is well known for their quirky and cool products that entice customers into stores and encourage teenagers and young men and women back time and time again.
£16.00
£22.00 Figure 26: Urban Outfitters Clothing
Figure 27: Urban Outfitters Screen Shots
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Figure 28: Urban Outfitters’ Tweets
The table shown in figure 28 show that in the course of one week Urban Outfitters made a total of forty tweets, the majority of which were about clothing that they sell either in the stores or online. The category that they tweeted about the least was makeup, with only one mention and events closely following that with two. However two of their tweets were unclear from just looking at the image posted with the tweet, and one of these was about homeware and the other was a discount offered. On average Urban Outfitters received 0.55 comments per tweet, 8.3 retweets, and 85.1 likes per tweet.
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Designer Brands `Upmarkit (2012) outlines luxury and high end brands as having a higher price, everlasting quality, rare, limited edition pieces and it’s own style. Having all of these elements means that high end fashion can only be purchased by a handful of people, making luxury clothing a niche market.
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Figure 29: Superdry Model
Superdry
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Superdry (n.d.) describes itself as ‘an exciting contemporary brand which focuses on quality products that fuse vintage Americana and Japanese-inspired graphics with a British style. Characterised by quality fabrics, vintage washes, and unique detailing.’ Superdry is a low end designer brand that is very popular with teenagers and young adults, and are known for their high prices and simple designs.
£16.99
£24.99 Figure 30: Superdry Clothing
Figure 31: Superdry Screen Shots
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Figure 32: Superdry Tweets
Looking at the table in figure 32 it can be seen that Superdry tweets a low amount over the course of one week, with only nineteen in total. A high percentage of them are about their clothing whilst only one of them is about beauty, in particular, men’s. When looking at averages it can be seen that on average each tweet receives 0.21 comments, 4.16 re-tweets, and 10 likes, which is quite low when compared to a lot of the other brands that have been mentioned throughout this report.
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Figure 33: Jack Wills Models
Jack Wills
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Jack Wills was established back in 1999 and ‘designs premium clothing and accessories for people who appreciate quality and attention to detail’ (Jack Wills, n.d.). They sell both men’s and women’s clothing, and is well known for their navy and pink stripes, symbolising their combined target audience.
£20.95
£34.95 Figure 34: Jack Wills Clothing
Figure 35: Jack Wills Screen Shots
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Figure 36: Jack WillsTweets
Jack Wills tweets and responses are shown in figure 36 show that over the course of one week they tweeted a total of 20 times about a range of different topics, such as discounts, homeware and clothing. Even though the posts were about a range of different things, the most common image that accompanied the post was about clothing, as this is likely to be because Jack Wills wanted to show and promote as many of their products as possible. Even so on average each comment throughout the week received 0.5 comments, 3.4 retweets, and 12.2 likes.
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Figure 37: Ted Baker Models
Ted Baker
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Ted Baker (n.d.) explains that the retailer is a ‘global lifestyle brand offering menswear, womenswear, accessories and everything in between. A quintessentially British brand… with high quality design detailing and distinctive use of pattern and colour.’ Ted Baker is a high end brand and is sold in many department stores and own brand stores across the UK.
Figure 39: Ted Baker Screen Shots
£49.00
£140.00 Figure 38: Ted Baker Clothing
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Figure 39: Ted Baker Tweets
Figure 39 above shows the amount of tweets and what the tweets were about that were created by Ted Baker’s Twitter account. From looking at the results it can be worked out that on average each tweet received 0.09 comments, 2.67 re-tweets, and 11.36 likes, showing that Ted Baker’s followers and not ones who greatly enjoying commenting on their posts, but much prefer just liking them. The largest part of Ted Baker’s tweets are related to their clothing lines, whereas events and homeware were only posted about once.
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Conclusion
It can be seen that brands are using Twitter every day to try and communicate with their audiences, through the use of discounts, showing what is new in store, and even by suggesting new outfits. However Haun (2015) found that the youth prefer their tweets to be a bit more interesting and to be interactive for them to pay attention and for them to actually take in what the retailer is trying to tell them. From this retailers have included links to their websites to help engage and encourage customers to interact, and to click through to their website, to spur them to purchase something. All of the brands discussed have regularly posted on their Twitter accounts and have all received responses for each post, showing that they are doing so regularly enough to keep their customers engaged and excited for the next post and product to show up on their homepage. Looking at all of the information gathered from the primary research on all of the ten retailers tweeting information, it can be seen that there is not a strong correlation between the market level of the retailer and how many tweets they do a week. However the brand that tweeted the most was Topshop with 130, and the company who posted the least was Mango, with just 10. Even though that was the case the highest amount of response from consumers was in the lower end of the market, for example simply comparing Primark’s and Ted Baker’s responses, Primark received 47 comments, 376 retweets and, 2719 likes, compared to Ted Baker with 3 comments, 88 retweets, and 375 likes. However this may be due to the lower amount of tweets posted, but even so H&M tweeted twelve times less than Ted Baker and still received a higher amount of responses. Therefore the reason for this is likely to be due to the fact that H&M is a mass market retailer, pretty much everyone can afford something from their brand, whereas Ted Baker is a high end brand, meaning that they are targeting towards a much nicher market, and therefore it is likely that less youths are following their account as they have no interest in purchasing form them, as they simply do not have the budget to. Overall of the the 10 brands used their Twitter accounts successfully when it came to promoting their products and attracting customers, by regularly updating and to listening to what it is the youth wants from the brands social medias that they follow. Creating a successful and vibrant platform for creating relationships between retailer and customer. Further examination of the ten retailers and their Twitter activity can be seen in appendix 1 and 2.