Mezcal

THE RETURN OF THE ‘PRODIGAL SON’

The agave family of spirits, in the recent past, has been dominated by the industrial spirit of tequila, produced from one single species of agave and using more technologically efficient methods of production to get the most yield per hectare. In the last few years, however, there has been a renaissance in the understanding of the origins of mezcal and the artisanal distilling traditions in the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca, which produces an incredibly complex and delicious spirit to be respected, savoured and enjoyed sparingly, largely due to the rarity of the ‘wild harvested agaves’ and the very small batch production methods.

WORDS ° Ben Davidson & Phil Bayly

WHAT IS MEZCAL?

The Mezcal category has been under review of redefining its original NOM 070 (Mexican Standard) of 2005 for a number of years. In July 2016, it was finally revised for the benefit of the category.

The reason for this is that mezcal has undergone huge changes and popularity in recent years. What we originally understood mezcal to be - as a cheap and fiery spirit - is in most cases no longer relevant.

Whereas Tequila is moving in to the future in the sense of how it can be refined and aged, mezcal, on the other hand, is moving back to its roots of a traditional artisanal spirit. The most prized examples are produced by the village in tiny copper or even claypot (Filipino style) stills in small batch productions, this tradition has been passed down by generation of Mezcaleros (the name given to the producers).

The definition of mezcal in its simplest form is; the Mexican standard NOM-070-SCFI-1994 regulates the production of mezcal and implies the denomination of origin, which limits the production of agave spirits to be called mezcal to the following Mexican states: Oaxaca, Guerrero, Durango, San Luis Potosí, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, Tamaulipas, Michoacan and Puebla.

All certified mezcal has a NOM on each label, similar to tequila and is certified by the CRM (Mezcal Regulatory Council).

Mezcal must be bottled at its place of origin and may not be exported in bulk.

The new changes that have come into effect state that mezcal is defined as, “A Mexican

alcoholic beverage, 100 per cent maguey, obtained by means of the distillation of juices fermented with Mexican yeasts, whether spontaneous or cultivated, and juices that have been extracted from the mature cooked heads of magueys, harvested within the territory included in the Denomination of Origin, mezcal”.

Traditionally, all alcoholic beverages made from Agave were called Vino de Mezcal, similar to how Cognac is a type of Brandy but not all Brandy can be called Cognac. Tequila was a Vino de mezcal but true mezcal was not tequila. Confused yet?

In 1994, mezcal achieved its recognition as a Denomination of Origin, and can only be produced in eight states of Mexico.

SOME FACTS ABOUT MEZCAL

• Mezcal is the largest DOA in the world covering approximately 500,000 square kilometers, and any species of agave can be used, as long as it is grown in the

Denomination of Origin areas.

• Mezcal must be between 35% to 55% ABV.

• Export of mezcal in bulk form is prohibited.

• The CRM (Consejo Regulador de Mezcal) regulates the production of Mezcal similar to the CRT (Consejo Regulador del Tequila) • Mezcal can only be produced with 100 per cent agave.

• Mezcal means, “cooked maguey” and thus, according to its origins, traditions and even the meaning of its name, all maguey used to produce mezcal must be cooked prior to beginning the fermentation process. This means that diffusers, while still technically allowed, must be used only after oven or autoclave use. Any species of maguey can be used to produce mezcal but not all are suitable.

THERE ARE NOW SIX CLASSES OF MEZCAL

• BLANCO: The Young, un-aged, formerly known as “Joven.”

• MADURADO (Matured): Aged in glass for a minimum of 12 months. The label can state the amount of time it has been aged.

• REPOSADO: Aged in barrels for between two and 12 months. The wood does not have to be oak. The label can state the amount of time it has been aged.

• AÑEJO: Aged over 12 months, in any size or type of wood vessel. The label can state the amount of time it has been aged.

• ABOCADO CON: Mezcal to which ingredients are used to add flavors, such

as maguey worm, damiana, lemon, honey, orange, mango, among others, should be incorporated directly, provided they are authorized by the corresponding Agreement of the Ministry of Health

• DISTILADO CON: Mezcal to be distilled with ingredients to incorporate flavors, such as turkey breast or chicken, rabbit, mole, plums, among others, in terms of the present

Official Mexican Standard. Only the mixture of mezcal of the same category and class is allowed.

THERE ARE THREE CATEGORIES OF MEZCAL:

MEZCAL

Its elaboration must comply with at least the following four stages and equipment: A) Cooking: cooking of heads or juices of maguey or agave in wells, masonry or autoclave.

B) Grinding: tahona, Chilean or Egyptian mill, sugar mill, canker, mill train or diffuser.

C) Fermentation: wooden containers, masonry basins or stainless steel tanks.

D) Distillation: stills, continuous distillers or columns of copper or stainless steel.

Mezcal, or should I say artisanal mezcal, could be defined as the single malt of agave spirits; complex, rich and full of flavour

PHIL BAYLY

MEZCAL ARTISENAL

Its elaboration must comply with at least the following four stages and equipment: A) Cooking: cooking of heads of maguey or agave in wells or raised masonry.

B) Grinding: with mallet, bakery, Chilean or

Egyptian mill, mill or harrow.

C) Fermentation: hollows in stone, soil or trunk, masonry basins, wooden or mud vessels, animal skins, which may include the fiber of maguey or agave (bagasse).

D) Distillation: with direct fire in stills of copper boiler or pot of mud and montera of clay, wood, copper or stainless steel; Whose process may include the fiber of the maguey or agave (bagasse).

MEZCAL ANCESTRAL

Its elaboration must comply with at least the following four stages and equipment: A) Cooking: cooking of heads of maguey or agave in wells.

B) Grinding: with mallet, bakery, Chilean or

Egyptian mill.

C) Fermentation: hollows in stone, soil or trunk, masonry basins, wooden or mud vessels, animal skins, which may include the fiber of maguey or agave (bagasse).

D) Distillation: with direct fire in pot of mud and montera of mud or wood; whose process may include the fiber of the maguey or agave (bagasse).

One of the most well known towns for producing mezcal is Santiago de Matatlan in the central Valley of Oaxaca, where some 100-plus brands are produced in small palenques or distilleries. Other villages and regions also in the central valley of Oaxaca include Teotitlan, San Baltazar Chichicapam, Sola de Vega, San Juan del Rio and San Luis del Rio. Each village has its own unique climate and in some cases style of production. So it would be wise to go and try them all!

TYPES OF AGAVES

One of the factors that make mezcal so interesting is the variety of agaves or magueys that may be used and the different characteristics each one has. Somewhat confusingly there are often two or more different names for the same agave, depending on the traditional or scientific reference. Here is a list of the most well-known varieties:

AGAVE ANGUSTIFOLIA OR ESPADÍN: The Agave Espadín is the most common variety of agave used in the production of mezcal in the state of Oaxaca.

Espadín is most often farmed rather than wild, and it can take between eight to 10 years to mature. It is the predominant variety of agave used in mezcal production simply because of the time it takes to grow, and the volume of sugars it can produce. It is believed to be the genetic parent of blue agave, which is used for tequila, and makes the most approachable of mezcals. It can vary significantly from one village to another. This is because each village will have its own unique elevation and microclimate or terroir that affects the end result. Some mezcals from higher altitudes may have higher, lighter notes. Lower elevations may have deeper, richer notes. Flavour profiles will depend on the vegetation and surrounds of the Palenque (distillery) where the airborne yeast will inoculate the sugars of the agave in the open fermentation tanks.

MEXICANO: This is a sub-variety of agave rhodacantha that prefers to grow in moist areas and at lower elevations and produces a mezcal that tends to be very complex and both sweet and savoury. The plant can take up to 10 years to mature. It’s worth it.

TOBALÁ: Considered the rarest of the agavaceae family, tobalá is cherished by many mezcaleros. It is very small in comparison to other varieties and yields limited quantities of intensely aromatic mezcal. It tends to choose rocky soils, and grows wild in high altitudes, preferring the shade of trees. Tobalá propagates itself only through pollination, it does not send out rhizomes, unlike other varieties of agaves. It relies on bats and other insects to distribute its seeds and pollinate.

MADRECUIXE: Another member of the Karwinskii family, is fast growing and can mature in less than six years, usually found in Harvested agave

the dry southern central valleys of Oaxaca. It grows tall and has a thick trunk, similar to a yucca plant; its piña is similar to a huge baseball bat. Madrecuixe mezcal has a green character, often with herbal and vegetal notes and subtle aromas.

TOBAZICHE: It looks like a yucca plant with a thin wooden trunk that can reach two metres high and is a member of the Karwinskii family. It has no piña, as do other varieties of agaves, instead, the trunk is cooked in earth ovens. It produces very little juice but has very intense flavours. An average plant can take anywhere from 20 to 25 years to grow.

TEPEXTATE: One of the larger agaves used in mezcal production, this plant can take up to 25 to 30 years to mature. It tends to grow in high altitudes above 2,000 metres and has huge, broad and twisted leaves. The mezcal produced from tepextate is intense in flavour and is often heavily perfumed, like the gewürztraminer grape.

DOBADAÁN: More commonly known by its botanical name, rhodacantha, Dobadaán prefers to grow in pine and oak forests, and can be found from Oaxaca to as far north as Sonora.

ARROQUEÑO: This very large agave may reach maturity in anywhere up to 20 years. The mezcal produced from this agave often has a candied aroma, can tend to be earthy, and often finishes with a bitter chocolate note.