A History of Australian Beer Brands

History of

AUSTRALIAN BEER BRANDS

The proliferation of beer brands in the Australian beer market over the last ten years highlights the fast pace of a consumer society that continues to explore new beers and further emphasises the pressure on manufacturers to deliver for their drinkers.

By Ian Kingham (That Beer Bloke), originally published in Expore Beer

While much of the marketing consumers see focuses on new products and quick-flash credentials – such as “all natural”, “great tasting”, “environmentally friendly,” and more – the names behind some of Australia’s most successful brands are often forgotten or blurred. Many of the brands that have endured were traditionally named after the pioneer brewers and business people who dared to risk it all in the Australian beer market. Brands that hail back to an era when reputations were built on equity not novelty, and when loyalty, consistency and character were the hallmarks of a truly great brand.

The brands outlined below have been chosen to strict criteria – all have been named after a true character and brewer, have enduring qualities, and are brewing (or had brewed) on a notable scale.

JAMES SQUIRE

James Squire (1754-1822)

James Squire was born circa 1754 in England. Little is known of his time before 1785 when he was convicted of highway robbery in Kingston, a hop growing area of Surrey, England and sentenced to seven years transportation. Squire came to Australia with the First Fleet, originally on the Friendship until female convicts boarded at the Cape of Good Hope and he was transferred to Charlotte. Squire survived a sentence of 300 lashes shortly after his arrival and set about serving his sentence. In 1793, the Daedalus arrived in Sydney carrying stores from which James Squire was able to draw the ingredients to brew privately for Lieutenant Governor Francis Grose and Colonel William Paterson, reportedly selling small quantities for his own benefit.

In 1795, having completed his seven-year sentence, James was given a grant of 30 acres at Kissing Point (now known as Ryde). He successfully cleared and farmed the land gaining recognition for his cattle production. In 1796, he purchased a neighbouring river-front property where he established Australia’s second commercial brewery in 1798. While there are mixed reviews of his beer during this time, it is fair to say he would have been working hard on trying to gain consistency and perfecting a product with severe limitations on the ingredients at his disposal. It’s assumed that he used horehound (a flowering plant) as a bittering agent until the arrival of hops in 1802. Upon delivery, James Squire and fellow brewer John Boston were invited by Governor King to supply samples of their beers.

James Squire put his time to farming, grazing cattle and brewing, and was now focused on cultivating hops. 1802 saw the planting of his and Australia’s hops, which he worked tirelessly on. In 1804, he advertised for barrels to be returned as his production was beginning to reach some significant scale.

In 1806, he opened the Malting Shovel Tavern at the edge of his property, on the banks of the Parramatta River, where he served patrons who were now travelling regularly between Sydney and Parramatta.

Historically of note, Squire successfully cultivated hops in 1806, which he duly took to the Governor who, upon receipt, rewarded Squire with a cow from the royal herd in recognition of his efforts. By 1812, Squire had elevated his hop production to five acres.

Squire spent time in the colony as a communityspirited and industrious man, holding roles as a constable, a banker and importantly a friend and protector of lower classes of society. In 1813, his Indigenous friend, and an Australian icon, Bennelong was buried on his property.

James Squire died in 1822, and his funeral was reported as the largest turn out ever experienced in the colony.

He left behind a wife and two sons in England when sentenced and in the colony, he married again and he fathered one son and seven daughters. Upon his death, his son continued the

brewery and estate until he passed in 1826, at the age of 29. James’ son-in-law Thomas Farnell managed the brewery until its closure in 1830.

JOHN BOSTON

John Boston (unknown-1804)

John Boston was a republican and political radical who sought passage to Australia as a free settler under the guise of his proclamation that he was trained in surgery (although never practised) and apothecary, as well as capable of brewing, distilling, sugar-making, vinegar production and soap-making.

Arriving in Sydney on October 25 1794, on the ship Surprise with his wife and three children, Boston secured a grant of land at Bennelong Point for the purpose of salt making. This was abandoned shortly afterwards due to the exceptionally low yields. Following a partnership with James Ellis and Thomas Fyshe Palmer, Boston built a brewery in 1795, and with the help of an encyclopaedia, developed a beer using Indian corn (malted maize) that was bittered with the leaves and stalks from tomatoes and the Cape Gooseberry.

Due to the tight controls on the docks and the oppressive military control, Boston found brewing a difficult venture to prosper financially in and as such, turned his trade to other opportunities shortly after.

Boston died in 1804 while sailing on his way to Fiji with 14,000 seal pelts and a bulk cargo of sandalwood. Having sailed into the port of Nuku’alofa, he put ashore with his business partner Pendleton and six men, enticed by their friendly welcome. Sadly, the locals set upon Boston and the men the moment they touched shore, and it is believed that they were cannibalised.

TOOTHS

John Tooth (1803-1857), Robert Tooth – nephew of John (1821-1893), Edwin Tooth – nephew of John (1822-1858), Frederick Tooth – nephew of John (1827-1893), Sir Robert Lucas Tooth – son of Edwin (1844-1915)

John Tooth married Elizabeth Newnham, daughter of a prominent brewer and timber merchant in England, and in 1828 moved his family to Sydney. He set up as a general merchant and commission agent with his brother in law (an experienced brewer from Kent) and held ownership over the Caledonian Brewery in 1834. The brewery was officially opened in 1835 and was named the Kent Brewery. John chose the Invicta White Horse logo as his symbol and produced ales varying in strength.

In 1843, Newnham left the partnership to pursue pastoral interests and John sold the lease to his nephews Edwin and Robert. Edwin and Robert quickly set up agents in Newcastle and Brisbane and experienced some success, however, in 1848, facing bankruptcy, John was forced to sell the brewery.

After a fire nearly destroyed the brewery in 1853, Frederick Tooth joined the partnership to inject some fresh capital. John Tooth died in 1857 and 1859 saw the passing of Edwin. In 1868, the brothers brought Robert Lucas Tooth into the business leading to Robert Senior retiring in 1872, followed by the retirement of Frederick in 1873.

The centenary year saw the business floated as a company and Robert Lucas was the chair of the board from 1888-1889. Robert Lucas died in 1915, with all three of his boys sadly killed in World War One.

JAMES BOAG

James Boag (1822-1890)

James Boag Senior was born in Paisley, Scotland, son of William Boag a prominent manufacturer. Boag immigrated to Australia in 1853 with his wife and four children to chase his fortune in the Victorian goldfields. After several months they moved to Launceston, Van Diemen’s Land, where Boag was gainfully employed at John Fawns’ Cornwell Brewery. In 1854, James Boag Junior was born, the first of another six children. At the brewery, Boag rose to occupy the rank of manager and chief brewer, with his son James Junior joining his staff in 1870. Boag held his role until retirement in 1878, however, he returned to work with his son in 1883 before again retiring in 1887 and transferring his interests across to his son. He passed away in Melbourne visiting his daughter in 1890.

James Boag Junior (1854-1919)

James Boag Junior studied at the Day School Collegiate before starting work with his father as a sixteen-year-old. Upon his father’s retirement, Boag Jnr left Fawns’ Brewery (1879) to form a partnership with J.T Glenwright at the Cataract Brewery. James married Elizabeth Edwards in 1880 and went on to have nine children including James Boag III in 1881. In 1883, James Junior dragged his father out of retirement to help purchase the Esk Cordial factory and form James Boag and Son, as well as what is still known today as the Esk Brewery in Launceston.

With the erection of a new malt house, James Boag became the dominant beer of the north in 1887, while Cascade dominated the south. In 1889, the Cornwell Brewery was acquired and brewing operations merged. Later in 1889, the Globe Brewery in Hobart was acquired and its name changed to the Hobart Brewery. The business was restructured in 1911 and the Union Brewery 44|drinks trade was acquired. In 1917, the Tamar Brewery was purchased and subsequently closed. He died of cancer in 1919.

COOPERS

Thomas Cooper (1826-1892)

James Boag III (1881-1944)

James Boag III trained as a brewer with Tooth and Co. in Sydney, before returning to Launceston to takeover the running of the brewery in 1919. In 1922, the Derwent Brewery (formally Jolly Hatters Brewery), was acquired and subsequently closed. The James Boag business was then sold to the Cascade Brewing Company in 1922, although ownership of the brewery and hotels remained with the family until 1957. James III died in 1944 and was well-regarded as an active sportsman and community identity. Thomas Cooper was an orphan by age six and raised by one of his many siblings. At age 14, he was apprenticed to a shoemaker in Yorkshire, England. In 1852, Cooper and his pregnant wife Ann, headed from Plymouth, England to Australia on SS Omega. He took a role as a shoemaker in Adelaide, before becoming a stonemason.

In 1857, utilising land on the neighbouring property, he purchased eight cows and started a career as a dairy farmer. Cooper’s wife Ann became very ill in 1862, and to help her recover, he brewed a traditional beer from one of her old family recipes, leading to a whole new enterprise.

He began brewing as a sole trader and only bottled his beer, as he supplied many private customers and was not interested in producing kegs or lagers like most commercial brewers were doing. Cooper was recorded as saying he only brewed “all natural ale, using only malt and no sugar”. His customers appreciated his focus on quality and many were leading characters in South Australia, including Dr Penfold from the neighbouring Grange Winery.

By the end of 1867, Cooper had over 120 private customers, however, after a decline in business, the brewery collapsed and the property was reclaimed in 1869. Cooper was forced to rent but was determined to keep brewing and in 1871, he set up a small operation in Kensington.

In 1878, his son John joined him in the brewery and by 1881 they were ready to purchase their own South Wales. Here he purchased his own cattle property until, after a visit to Sydney in 1869, John successfully obtained his brewers license. He purchased the Darling Brewery in 1869, persuading younger brother James to join him as a junior partner, thus forming JT and J Toohey.

He became a partner in the Metropolitan Brewery in 1870, which he successfully associated himself with for three years. In 1874, the Toohey Brothers purchased the site of the fire destroyed Albion Brewery and, by 1875, had it fully restored as a series of stone buildings spanning two acres. The new site was named The Standard Brewery and replaced operations at the Darling brewery (which was subsequently sold in the same year), remaining open until operations were transferred to Lidcombe, New South Wales.

In 1902, the business was listed as a public company, known as Toohey’s Ltd, with John as chairman. The stag logo was adopted from John Toohey’s favourite hotel, The Bald Faced Stag in Leichhardt, in the same year.

premises again. John concentrated on upgrading processes and the consistency of their ales continued to improve. In 1897, Thomas retired and subsequently died. The business continued with the eldest sons John, Christopher, Samuel and Stanley all managing the business while younger sons Frederic and Charles worked in the brewery. By 1900, they had 1% share of beer consumption in the South Australian market.

The sons decided to supply hotels in 1905, and kegs made up 40% of their sales by 1910, rising to 76% by 1918, the year in which John’s eldest son Frank was made a partner. Coopers and Sons was formalised in 1923.

TOOHEYS

John Thomas Toohey (1839-1903) and James Matthew Toohey (1850-1895)

Born in Limerick, Ireland, John Toohey immigrated to the Victorian Goldfields with his parents Matthew and Honora in 1841, where the family prospered as cattle farmers. In 1861, Toohey became the first licensee of the Prince’s Bridge Hotel (now Young and Jackson’s) in Melbourne until 1865, when the family moved to Lismore, New

RESCH’S

Edmund Resch (1847-1923), Emil Karl Resch (1860-1930), Richard Frederick Edward, Nicholas Resch (1851-1912), Edmund Resch Junior (18791963), Arnold Gottfried Resch (1881-1942)

The Resch’s immigrated to Australia in 1863 as sons of an ironmongery from Saxony, Germany. In 1877, Edmund and younger brother Richard purchased a cordial and aerated water factory in Wilcannia. They both became involved in cordial manufacturing in Broken Hill and Wilcannia, New South Wales. 1879 saw the establishment of the Lion Brewery in Wilcannia and in 1883, they acquired a brewery in Cootamundra, also renamed the Lion Brewery. drinks trade|45

1885 saw further brewery acquisitions in Silverton and Tibooburra, all named as Lion Brewery.

Mutual consent led to a separation of businesses in 1885, whereby Richard ran Cootamundra and Timbooburra, Edmund ran Wilcannia, and Emil came on board to run Silverton. In 1892, Edmund employed a manager at Wilcannia and retired to Melbourne until 1895 when Edmund came out of retirement to manage and run the Alt’s brewery, Wine & Spirit Co, which had been in liquidation. The site of the Alt’s brewery in Sydney was known as the Waverley Brewery and formally known as The Adelaide Brewery.

FOSTERS

William Manning Foster (unknown) and Ralph Rose Foster (unknown)

The Fosters brothers arrived in Australia from America in 1887, bringing with them modern brewing equipment from Germany.

At the time, most beers brewed in Australia were top-fermenting ales, which were heavier and more complex in flavour than the clean, refreshing taste of lager.

In 1888, the brothers produced their first brew of Foster’s lager, where they insisted upon it being served with an ice cube. The highlight of 1888 was the entry of Foster’s lager into the centennial exhibition for which it won the gold medal.

The ice making equipment and much of their brewing equipment had been imported from the US, but the cost of then shipping ice and gaining distribution for their brand in 1888 was very difficult. Subsequently, having exhausted their capital reserves, they duly sold the business in 1889 to a syndicate of investors who floated the business as a public company, merging with

Carlton & United Breweries in 1907.

Post the sale of the Foster’s business, the only known reference of the brothers dates to 1891, when Ralph Foster tried to establish The American & German Lager Beer Co. Ltd by proposing to take over the Carrington Brewery in Marrickville, Sydney. The proposal did not go ahead.

HAHN

Dr Charles (Chuck) Hahn (1946–still Brewing)

Dr Charles Hahn, affectionately known as Chuck, was born in 1946 in Bronxville, USA. Hahn studied chemical engineering at Colorado School of Mines, graduating in 1971 with a PhD. The idea of travelling the world, visiting refineries and oil platforms was low on Hahn’s radar, so after graduating, he quickly found a role for himself in Quality Control at Coors, moving quickly into research and development. After several years, he became involved in teaching and training budding brewers at Coors as well as rising to prominence in the Master Brewers Association of America. Hahn also worked on the development and launch of Coors Light, one of the first low carb beers in America.

In 1981, Tooth and Co. were undergoing a 100 million dollar redevelopment of the Kent brewery and as a result of the need for technical experience, Hahn was headhunted to immigrate to Australia and take charge of brewing operations.

In 1983, Doug Meyers of New Zealand breweries invited Chuck to move to New Zealand, where Chuck subsequently took Steinlager to prominence by winning the World Beer Cup for best lager in 1984/85, a stellar achievement.

In 1987, Chuck returned to Australia and pulled together the capital to start the Hahn Brewing Company where he developed Hahn Premium and Hahn Premium Light. However, the recession in the early nineties saw bank interest rates rise to 17%, and consumers began moving from premium beers into cheaper mainstream beers. Sydney Bitter was developed as a response to this need.

During his tenure at Hahn Brewing Company, Chuck won multiple awards for his Hahn Premium Lager, which is still available today. Sadly, in 1993, the Hahn Brewing Company lost its name through its sale to Lion, but as a tribute to Australia’s pioneer brewer, James Squire, Chuck renamed his brewery The Malt Shovel Brewery. James Squire beers were being developed at this time and are the beer children of Hahn.

Hahn Premium Light was launched in 1998 and is the largest selling low alcohol beer in Australia. Hahn Super Dry was launched in 2006, Hahn Super Dry 3.5 was launched in 2009 and Hahn Harvest was produced as a limited edition brew in 2012.

HOLGATE BREWHOUSE

Paul Holgate (1967–still brewing)

Born in Lancefield Bush Hospital in Victoria in the sixties, Paul Holgate is the child of immigrant English parents, who arrived in 1965 with five children in tow. The seventh in a brood of nine, Holgate broke the mould of a long line of carpenters and builders by studying chemistry at the University of Melbourne, where he met his wife Natasha. Also from an immigrant family, she arrived in Australia in 1972 as a four-year-old, from Columbo in Sri Lanka.

Unlike this nation’s original brewers, the Holgates diverge from the usual story that centres around The Man, The Myth and The Legend. Indicative of where the industry is going, Paul and Natasha are a true partnership – though Paul reckons it is all Natasha’s hard work that has scaled the brand up from a small local venue to a national brand.

Commissioning their brewery in 1999, with the first brews rolling through the brewhouse in October of that year, they purchased a secondhand plant from New Zealand that was installed in a large purpose-built shed in the rear of their threequarter acre property in Woodend. The project was inspired by the couple’s holiday to the US in 1997. Though a passionate homebrewer, Paul was largely unaware of the potential for a business thanks to the lack of a craft beer industry in Australia in the 80s and 90s.

Beginning with the aim of simply brewing consistently good beer that they would be able to sell, the Holgates had no marketing budget and no sales department. To put that into perspective, their total budget to start the business was about 2% of the seed capital that was used to start Little Creatures two years later.

Paul kept his corporate day job until 2002, when the iconic Woodend hotel, that had originally been the Cobb and Co. stagecoach stop-over station to Bendigo Goldfields, came on the market. Renaming it the Holgate Brewhouse, Paul and his 75-year-old father did a whirlwind partial renovation before they began trading as a dedicated Holgate beer outlet – an act that certainly kept the brewery in business.

It was a tough slog. For the first eight years of starting the hotel business, Natasha worked the restaurant floor Friday nights, Saturday nights and Sunday lunchtimes – and that was after spending all week in admin and management, knocking her working week up to 70-80 hours. According to Paul, it is difficult to explain just how hard it was, though the fact that he and Natasha have only recently begun to pay themselves something close to market rate for their skills may be an indication. However, the hard work paid off and, now, with two major expansions under their belt – in 2006 and 2012 – the Holgate Brewhouse has become one of the most recognised craft beer drinks trade|47