Champagne on Ice

Vranken is a Parisian who earned her history degree at La Sorbonne before founding her own consultancy, the Nico Agency. When asked about the history of the house she will tell you that her generation is the first. “My husband, PaulFrancois Vranken, started the house in 1976 as an entrepreneur, with his own money. He started from scratch. And today we are number two with 18,000,000 bottles.

“It’s a beautiful story, it’s an interesting story, and we are still number one – in terms of generations.”

Of course, Madame Pommery came many years before, but the business now is different and includes several other Champagnes.

Pommery was known for the Brut Style introduced so successfully in the late 19th century, a style specifically developed for the English consumer, whose love of Champagne was expanding at a rapid pace.

Vranken is in Australia to promote the launch of Pommery Blue Sky Sur Glace, a Champagne made to be served on ice, containing a higher dosage (sugar level) that benefits from ice. The Pommery Blue Sky Sur Glace includes a good level of acidity, which is not lost with the additional dosage.

“Thierry Gascot, who made this cuvée, will say that sugar is like make-up; if you have to hide something you use more. But what is interesting here is that you have nothing to hide.”

Pommery is performing well in Australia and Vranken’s talent maybe in cultivating genius in those around her. “I am very good at convincing people, and it helps that I have natural authority,” she laughs.

Pommery is committed to the Australian market and has opened an office here rather than going through an already established distributor. Inge Fransen is the Australian Managing Director and is with Vranken on her Australian tour.

“Vranken-Pommery, being one of three Champagne Houses with offices in the Australian market, allows us to be closer and dedicated to clients whilst being reactive to market trends. Since 2012 strong double digit growth has been realised year on year and the future is looking bright.”

Back at the Champagne bar the Pommery Blue Sky Sur Glace is proving popular with staff and guests.

“The cellars at Pommery are particularly deep. They are 30 metres down (below the surface), which helps to keep a level of 98 degrees humidity. Which is not too dissimilar to Brisbane,” jokes Vranken, “only the temperature is a constant 10 degrees Celsius in the cellars.”

This, she explains, helps to develop the Champagne in a style that has a fine bead and clarity of appearance. She looks to the wine as a piece of art, something that is close to her heart, but what she relates to the most are the bubbles. “Do you know what represents me the most? It’s not the champagne at all. It’s actually the bubble—because I’m sparkling.”

POMMERY GROWS IN STRENGTH IN AUSTRALIA

It’s early evening and Madame Nathalie Vranken, co-owner and head of the marketing division of Vranken-Pommery Monopole, is holding court with the staff at the Champagne Bar in the Sofitel Hotel, Darling Harbour. Her presence, along with the name and accent, commands attention. She is skilfully self-deprecating as well as gracious; she openly quips that she is “the least talented person in the Champagne House”, more to highlight the high quality of the people at the Champagne House than as a slight on herself.