9 minute read
Tasting Bench. Chardonnay and Grenache
CHARDONNAY
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Chardonnay is the finest white burgundy and the cheapest Two Buck Chuck. It was the grape that was so huge in the 1980s it became a brand followed by an anti-movement with the term ‘ABC – Anything but Chardonnay’ bandied about. Unfortunately its shameless world domination led to some very inferior chardonnay where poor fruit was masked by excessive intervention in the winery. The Drinks Trade Tasting Panel tasted 90 chardonnays to decide whether chardonnay is shining as the exciting varietal it is capable of or letting down the consumer with too much artefact.
THE VERDICT
The judges saw this bracket of chardonnays as fresh and interesting and indicative of a move to a modern wine-making style with restrained use of oak. When oak was used it was finely integrated playing a supportive rather than dominant role. The general consensus was a great experience of chardonnay predominantly leaner and elegant in style.
GRENACHE AND GRENACHE BLENDS
Grenache is one of the world’s most widely planted grape varieties. Vigorous and prolific it has long been considered the great red workhorse. It is big in Spain where it is called Garnacha and also in France where it is responsible for Chateau Neuf du Pape, one of the greatest red wines. In Australia it was one of the first varieties planted. We boast the oldest producing Grenache vines in the world dating back to 1850. There is a spotlight on Grenache because of its late ripening qualities and its resilience to increasingly warmer vintages as a result of climate change. Traditionally blended with Shiraz and Mourvedre, single varietal Grenache is increasingly popular and highlights the pure essence of the Grenache grape with all its plum pudding, Christmas cake fruity richness. From easy drinking lighter styles to the intensity and complexity of the old vine Grenaches, there is a style of Grenache for all palates.
THE VERDICT
The tasting panel received 28 Grenache blends and 23 Grenache samples. Qualities in the all the Grenache samples were that the fruit was the highlight with many displaying a balance of elegant and ripe berries whilst others were showing too much ripeness and tipping into the realm of too hot, jammy and porty. The Grenache that demonstrated a balanced and earthy savouriness with the sweetness of fruit stood out in the line up.
THE TASTING
The tasting panel blind-tasted 90 Chardonnays, 23 Grenaches and 28 Grenache blends. We adopt The Wine Advocate/Robert Parker 100-point wine-scoring scale: • 96–100 – Extraordinary • 90–95 – Outstanding • 80–89 – Barely above average to very good • 70–79 – Average • 60–69 – Below average • 50–59 – Unacceptable
Drinks Trade published all the wines that scored above 85 points as an average.
THE PANEL
RALPH KYTE-POWELL
CRITIC
Ralph Kyte-Powell has worked in the wine and hospitality industries for over thirty years including roles as a wine marketer, retailer, sommelier, vigneron, lecturer and owner/operator of a small hotel. Ralph began writing twenty years ago and has been a regular contributor to Delicious, Cuisine, The Age and Sydney Morning Herald and was best known as former co-editor of the Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide.
SHARON WILD
EDUCATOR
Sharon has been pursuing her passion for wine as both a hobby and career for the past 25 years. Her wine industry experience is extensive and focuses on education and communication. She has taught wine courses at all levels, from basic wine appreciation classes to the internationally accredited WSET’s, and is an experienced presenter. She has contributed articles to wine magazines, judged on tasting panels and at wine shows. She has engaged in Master of Wine studies and passed the tasting component of the exam and was a Len Evan’s Tutorial Scholar.
GABRIELLE POY
RETAILER
Gabrielle Poy is on the wine buying team for City Wine Shop, part of the Spring Street group of establishments that include the European, Siglo, Melbourne Supper Club and The Spring St Grocer. She spent several years abroad, furthering her knowledge by completing vintages in Italy, Spain and New Zealand. In 2010 she was a Len Evans Scholar and 2011 she was a finalist in The Frankland Estate Riesling Scholarship. In 2015 she completed her WSET Diploma and teaches both Level 2 and 3 Awards. More recently, she has become involved in wine show judging at both National and Regional shows, and in 2018 Chaired the Riverina Wine Show.
VICTOR PUGATSCHEW
IMPORTER
Victor spent time working with CUB and Foster’s Group before starting a Champagne consulting business in 2004 specialising in grower champagnes. In 2015 Victor started his own import business, Champagne de Vigneron and supplies to off and on-premise clients.
MORGAN DUNN
SOMMELIER
Morgan began in the hospitality industry to fund his studies. He graduated from food runner to assistant sommelier at Richmond’s Pearl restaurant in Melbourne and went on to work for The Lucas Group as a beverage manager, first at Chin Chin, then at Baby Pizzeria, and finally Kisume, where he was on the opening wine team as Head Sommelier. He currently pulls corks on the wine team at Coda. Morgan has been contributing to The Australian Life pages for the past two years and in September 2017 was named Emerging Wine Writer of the Year at the Louis Roederer International Wine Writing Awards as well as winning the Best Featured Articles or Wine Column category at the Wine Communicators of Australia awards in November 2017.
TRAVIS FULLER
WINE CONSULTANT
Travis sees his role in the wine industry as much as a hobby as it is work. This passion has led him to gain 24 years of experience with some of Australia’s bestknown wine brands including Penfolds, [yellowtail] and Hardys. Coupled with an interest in travel, Travis is a regular senior judge at local and international wine shows and as of recently was responsible for Accolade Wines premium wine portfolio covering 38 brands. He now heads up a wine consultancy business, The Winemaster.
CHARDONNAY
De Bortoli The Estate Vineyard Chardonnay 2016
RRP: $27.95 Region: Yarra Valley Distributor: De Bortoli Wines Points: 91
Judge’s comments:
Gabrielle Poy: Butter, spice and ripe melon. Great line of acid and chalky texture. Morgan Dunn: Good texture with generous creeping acidity. In tune. Peach blossom lingers on the nose. Ralph Kyte-Powell: Subtle nectarine. Clean and pure yet quietly complex. Travis Fuller: Lemon curd centre. A leaner style.
Brown Brothers Patricia Chardonnay 2017
RRP: $45 Region: Tasmania/Yarra Valley Distributor: Brown Family Wine Group Points: 90
Judge’s comments:
Gabrielle Poy: Nice mix of reduction and oak (spice, smoke and crème caramel) great core and racy acid. Delicious. Travis Fuller: Power, texture, toast. Wow!
Brookland Valley Estate Chardonnay 2017
RRP: $49 Region: Margaret River Distributor: Accolade Wines Points: 90
Judge’s comments:
Ralph Kyte-Powell: Good combination of fruit and artifice. Creamy and complete Gabrielle Poy: Alluring reduction, oyster shell and oak spice. Great tension and crunchy acid.
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2016
RRP: $45 Region: Marlborough, New Zealand Distributor: Moët Hennessy Australia Points: 90
Judge’s comments:
Gabrielle Poy: Spice and smoke, driving saline acidity. Great line and length. Delicious. Travis Fuller: Builds and builds and builds. Outstanding.
Three Bridges Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2017
RRP: $25 Region: Tumbarumba Distributor: Calabria Wines Points: 89
Judge’s comments:
Ralph Kyte-Powell: Complex and harmonious. Easy and smooth. Gabrielle Poy: Herbal and wax, restrained style with lively acid and greener tones. Nettle and grass. Great energy.
Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2016
RRP: $103 Region: Yarra Valley/Tasmania Distributor: Accolade Wines Points: 89
Judge’s comments:
Victor Pugatschew: Savoury, complex and long. Travis Fuller: Tightly wound, peach, melon and very long. Morgan Dunn: Pretty smart little number with peachy length.
Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2017
RRP: $22 Region: Coonawarra Distributor: Fesq, Muster and Off the Vine Points: 88
Judge’s comments:
Gabrielle Poy: Charming oak, very spicy. Composed palate, great tension and length. Ralph Kyte-Powell: Refined and elegant.
De Iulius Chardonnay 2017
RRP: $24.95 Region: Hunter Valley Distributor: Fesq Points: 88
Judge’s comments:
Morgan Dunn: Great texture, highlights of citrus and cut stone fruit. Ralph Kyte-Powell: Fresh with some complexity, melon, honeycomb and smoky bacon. Good.
Deakin Estate Chardonnay
RRP: $10 Region: Murray Darling Distributor: Red and White Points: 86
Judge’s comments:
Gabrielle Poy: Pineapple and char on the nose. Finer style with lilting acid. Ralph Kyte-Powell: Linen and lively, hint of woodsmoke. Travis Fuller: Bright and delightful. Glugable Chardonnay.
Bream Creek Chardonnay 2017
RRP: $36 Region: Tasmania Distributor: Fesq Points: 86
Judge’s comments:
Sharon Wild: Good depth of flavour and concentration of tropical fruits, mineral length. Travis Fuller: Grilled citrus with a powerful palate.
GRENACHE
Tim Adams Mr Mick Grenache 2018
RRP: $17 Region: Clare Valley Distributor: Contact Natalie Chivell – natalie@timadamswines.com.au Points: 93
Judge’s comments:
Ralph Kyte-Powell: Bright berries, fragrant Turkish Delight, fine elegant and perfumed. Travis Fuller: Dense, juicy and tasty.
Brockenchack Megan Jane Grenache Single Vineyard
RRP: $35 Region: Eden Valley Distributor: Contact Darren Naylor – darren@brockenchack.com.au Points: 90
Judge’s comments:
Travis Fuller: Cherries, earth, thyme, sweetness and acid core. Very appealing.
Thistledown Gorgeous Grenache 2018
RRP: $27.95 Region: Riverland Distributor: Fesq Points: 89
Judge’s comments:
Travis Fuller: Ripe cherry spice with raspberry jam. Balanced.
GRENACHE BLENDS
Spinafex Wines Esprit (Grenache, Mataro, Cinsault) 2015
RRP: $35 Region: Barossa Valley Distributor: Visit spinifexwines.com.au/ pages/distributors.php Points: 92
Judge’s comments:
Travis Fuller: Savoury and spicy. Ethereal. Great food wine.
Mr Riggs The Magnet Grenache 2016
RRP: $32.95 Region: McLaren Vale Distributor: Fesq Points: 88
Judge’s comments:
Travis Fuller: Cherry jam and spice. Fine and balanced.
St Hugo GSM (Grenache, Shiraz, Mataro) 2016
RRP: $50 Region: Barossa Valley Distributor: Pernod Ricard Points: 90
Judge’s comments:
Travis Fuller: Bright, lively cherry spice with texture and density. Victor Pugatschew: Charming and elegant.
Grampians Estate GST (Grenache, Shiraz, Tempranillo) 2017
RRP: $28 Region: Grampians, Victoria Distributor: Contact info@grampiansestate.com.au Points: 89
Judge’s comments:
Travis Fuller: Cool climate, white spice and balances perfectly. Just gorgeous.
Marrenon Les Belles Echappes 2017
RRP: $25 Region: Rhone Valley, France Distributor: Star Beverages Points: 88
Judge’s comments:
Travis Fuller: Cranberry and spice, lifted and youthful.
RRP: $28 Region: McLaren Vale Distributor: Accolade Wines Points: 87
Judge’s comments:
Travis Fuller: Cold meats and earth. Textured and tasty.
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