Ken Gargett The Wines of Provence

Photo Credit: Marie l’Enfer

The Artistry of Provence

THE AUSTRALIAN SPRING HAS ARRIVED IN TIMELY FASHION, AND ALONG WITH IT THE PROMISE OF SUMMER JUST AROUND THE CORNER - AKA ROSÉ SEASON. ROSÉ HAS BEEN BOOMING IN RECENT YEARS AND, GIVEN IT MAKES UP 9% OF GLOBAL WINE*, THERE’S NO REASON TO THINK IT’S POPULARITY WILL FADE. THE ROSÉ REVOLUTION IS HERE TO STAY. SO WITH THAT IN MIND, OUR THOUGHTS TURNED TO THE HOME OF ROSÉ, SET ON THE BACKDROP OF THE SPARKLING BLUE WATERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA AND SOUTH EAST OF FRANCE; PROVENCE.

Words Ken Gargett and Ash Pini

Winelovers will immediately imagine crisp, chilled, pale pink glasses of the world’s best Rosés, but there is so much more. Wines that reflect their terroir and are evergrowing in respect and popularity around the world. Grapes have been grown here, and wines made, since 600 BC. Greeks and Romans both enjoyed the region’s output, and as highly revered as the region was then, the wines have never been better.

We see an array of offerings including: Rolle (Vermentino), Ugni Blanc, Semillon, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Bourboulenc, for white grapes.

For reds, which provide the majority of the grapes grown in the Provençal region, Grenache is the dominant variety, supported by Cinsault, Syrah, Carignan, CabernetSauvignon, Mourvèdre, Tibouren, Counoise, Barbaroux and Calitor.

The largest AOC in the region is Côtes de Provence, with almost a hundred communes, followed by Coteaux d’Aix-enProvence, and Coteaux Varois en Provence.

These three appellations represent 95% of the AOP production. Côtes de Provence, in the East, is the largest, and divided in terroir designations (there are five of them) recognising the uniqueness of each area of this big appellation.

Coteaux Varois en Provence, in the heart of Provence, is the highest of the three. The altitude of the vineyards varies between 350 and 500 metres. Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, in the west, is most exposed the the Mistral wind, which blows from the Rhône Valley.

As makers understand their region more and more, we are seeing grapes planted on slopes best suited. Also benefiting the growing international attention is that this is a region which adapts easily to both organic and biodynamic viticulture, a sector of the

Photo Credit: Francois Millo

market growing every year. Sustainability is an important consideration for Provençal winemakers.

The region benefits from the famed mistral, the wind from the north which ensures that the vines dry quickly after any rain, inhibiting the growth of any potential disease. The heat and sun play vital roles in ensuring early ripening. Adding to the interest is the wide selection of different soils – everything from deposits of limestone and shale to quartz and schist near the coast, with clay and sandstone dominating inland. This all ensures incredible diversity of styles across Provence.

Their glorious Rosés, however, dominate production, understandably so. Rosé is now made all over the globe but nowhere has mastered it in the way the makers across Provence have done. More than 90% of the wine made here is Rosé. Regulators understand the importance of maintaining standards and ensure that at least two grape varieties are used in the blending of AOP Provence Rosé and at least 50% of the blending of an AOP Provence Rosé must come from main varietals, and the other 50% can come from main or secondary varietals.

This has not stopped winemakers from experimenting in their search for higher standards. Some have trialled the use of oak while almost everyone now works with temperature controlled tanks. Biodynamic and organic viticulture have ensured that the grapes they use are superior to past vintages.

Winemakers in the region created a research centre dedicated to Rosé wine based in the town of Vidauban located in the center of Provence.

Lovers of the wonderful Rosés from Provence are even more thrilled by the diversity we are seeing across the region in wines from different locations.

The world has welcomed the ‘celebrity winemaker’, keen to involve themselves with Provençal Rosé. Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie with their Chateau Miraval led the way, but anyone who has seen this wine will attest that this is no cosmetic gesture. They are superb wines, deserving of all the accolades coming their way. John Legend, Idris Elba, Lisa Vanderpump, George Lucas and Kylie Minogue have joined them.

It is no surprise to find that Australia now ranks sixth in the world for importing Provençal Rosé and, while the entire world seems to have joined this bandwagon, expect us to climb even higher.

Wine Intelligence report 2018

EXPERT VIEWPOINT MATT DUNNE

Joval Wine Group

What is getting you excited in Provence Rose at the moment?

The diversity in terroir and styles of Rose and the region’s commitment to the environment and sustainability.

We’ve seen an explosion of Rose in the Australian market in recent years, how do you see Provence wines positioned to take advantage of this as the market matures?

A greater focus on the sub-regions when it comes to adding balance to a restaurant wine list or retail outlet. A deeper understanding of what the consumer is looking for and having a finger on the pulse with what they want to drink.

We’re seeing more emphasis on sustainable viticulture around the world, how are the Provence producers adapting their viticulture with this in mind?

More and more producers are going down the sustainable path with an increase of 65% or organic vines between 2010 and 2016.

Are there any innovations (winemaking, packaging, marketing, technical, Organic/BD) that you see Provence leading the charge on?

Many producers gave turned to wine cellars that function by gravity to preserve their natural authenticity and quality. Wines of Provence have launched a collective plan of passage in the “HVE”certification – High Environmental Value.

If you’re drinking with friends, what’s your perfect Provence rose occasion?

The notion that rose is a summer’s drink is over – it’s now an all year round drink and the gender ratio of drinkers is a more even split! One of the best matches with soft cow’s milk cheese is Provence Rosé!

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