Whisky | Glenfiddich Grand Cru

GLENFIDDICH

GRAND CRU 23-YEAR-OLD

WILLIAM GRANT & SONS HAVE FINALLY LAUNCHED THE MUCH AWAITED (BLAME COVID ET AL, FOR THE DELAY) GLENFIDDICH GRAND CRU 23-YEAR-OLD MALT.

Glenfiddich is the most awarded single malt in the world so the possibility of a new, elite release has had whisky lovers exhilarated for ages. Exquisitely packaged, this is a 23-year-old malt from Speyside ($390), that is thrilling both in appearance and taste. Even more exciting, this is just the first in their new “Grand” series. The idea is to offer malts which are pitched very much at the luxury end of the market, but which will still be readily available, not just curiosities of a few cases only, read about in obscure publications and auction press releases.

The origins of this superb malt go back nearly 150 years, when a Scottish bookkeeper working at the Mortlach Distillery, named William Grant, had a dream of making the “best dram in the valley.”

Grant took careful note of all that was happening, in case he ever got his chance. Finally, at the age of 47, Grant quit his job and paid £119,19 shillings and 10 pence for a copper pot still and associated equipment and, with the assistance of his seven sons and two daughters, set off to make that “best dram.”

Christmas Day 1887 saw the first spirit shared among the family, and his little distillery was dubbed Glenfiddich, meaning “valley of the deer.” As soon as he could, Grant purchased the nearby Robbie Dhu Spring, an incomparable source of quality water for whisky. The nearby stream was actually called the Fiddich.

Glenfiddich remains the only Speyside distillery distilling, maturing, and bottling on site (these days, the 12-Year-Old is an exception).

Clearly, the Glenfiddich Grand Cru 23-Year-Old malt is a whisky which has excited the marketing and PR gurus as well as spirit lovers – “sets out to redefine moments of celebration,” “a new and extraordinary drinking experience,” “created for the non-conformists,” “uniquely crafted as a surprising delight,” and “for those tearing up the rule book.” As I have

said before, it is always good to see the marketing department earning its dosh.

Their Malt Master for the last decade has been Brian Kinsman. Over this time, he has earned a reputation for innovation of the highest standards. This is not always easy as, when your company sells around 14 million bottles of malt every year, your highest priority must be to keep the traditional customers happy, while walking the high-wire act of innovation. Kinsman seems to have mastered the balance.

The new Glenfiddich Grand Cru 23-Year-Old malt is matured in American and European oak casks before it is finished in “French cuvée casks” for a further six months. It is the only Glenfiddich malt to receive this treatment. The six-month period was the result of a series of experiments as to what length of time best suited the malt.

Just what are French cuvée casks? Some have speculated that they are from Champagne, but it should be stressed that no one from Glenfiddich, or anyone associated with the company, is suggesting that is true. All we know is that they are talking “a great sparkling wine from France.” Unfortunately, commercial agreements prevent Glenfiddich from revealing the source of its casks.

While the majority of champagne houses tend to use stainless steel rather than oak casks, we are seeing more and more producers, not least through the emergence of quality growers like Selosse and Collin among many others, who do use oak. Also, producers like Krug and Bollinger use oak, usually however these are casks that are very old as the aim is not to give cask character to the wine. How much is given to the malts is a question to be explored. Of course, there are plenty of other superb sparkling wines made around France so speculation it shall remain.

More importantly than exactly where the casks may come from is the question of why did Glenfiddich choose to use French cuvée casks? The reason, according to Kinsman, was keen to accentuate the floral notes of the whisky.

The Grand Cru is 40 percent, and the bottle is 700 ml. As mentioned, it is exquisitely presented. The Grand Series will have further releases in the near future.

Of course, in the end, all this means nothing unless we have a cracking whisky.

Ever so slightly pale in color, it walks a fine line between the richness it offers and the elegance and floral notes. A hint of glacé fruit, brioche and apple orchards. There is vanillin oak on the palate, with white chocolate and stone fruits, spices, and the merest hint of raspberry. The texture is cushiony soft and creamy. Excellent finish and great length. This malt is impeccably balanced and complex throughout.

Glenfiddich Grand Cru is a malt that is finely crafted and utterly superb. Whether it offers value will be up to each individual, but there is no question that it is a really lovely whisky and a wonderful addition to premium malts. We look forward to the next release in the series.