7 minute read
Rosé de Provence Tasting and Review
THE ROSÉ Vins de Provence
Photos by: Francois Millo
Advertisement
WE ARE DELIGHTED TO ADVISE MANY VINS DE PROVENCE ROSÉ WINES FROM THE 2020 VINTAGE HAVE LANDED IN AUSTRALIA, AND THEY ARE LOOKING FRESH, DELICIOUS AND RIPE FOR ENJOYING IN THE WARMER MONTHS.
DRINKS TRADE, IN COLLABORATION WITH CONSEIL INTERPROFESSIONNEL DES VINS DE PROVENCE (CIVP), TASTED AN OUTSTANDING LINEUP OF 22 FIRST-CLASS VINS DE PROVENCE ROSÉ WINES FROM THE 2020 VINTAGE.
IT WAS A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE, NOT LEAST FOR THE FORMAT. IN LOCKDOWN, 13 PANEL MEMBERS RECEIVED 60 ML SAMPLES OF EACH WINE PROFESSIONALLY REBOTTLED AND DELIVERED CHILLED. THE PANEL TASTED THE WINES BEFORE COMING TOGETHER ON A COLLECTIVE ONLINE ZOOM SESSION TO VIRTUALLY DISCUSS INDIVIDUAL SCORES BEFORE COLLATING THE RESULTS FOR THE TOP FIFTEEN WINES AND THE STAND-OUT TOP THREE.
OUR EXPERT PANEL OF TASTERS
BRIDGET RAFFAL
Beverage Director Where’s Nick CHRIS RYAN
Head Wine Buyer Cumulus Inc LEXIE BOUCHOLT
Sommelier Margaret KYLE POOLE
Head Sommelier Woodcut FELIX RILEY
Founder Felixir
ABOUT VINS DE PROVENCE
For lovers of rosé, Provence is the benchmark for outstanding rosé. Vins de Provence, the oldest vineyard area in France, brings together three appellations d’origine contrôlée spanning close to 200 km, between the Mediterranean and the Alps, across the departments of Bouches-du-Rhône, Var and a commune within the Alpes-Maritimes: the AOC Côtes de Provence, AOC Coteaux d’Aixen-Provence and AOC Coteaux Varois en Provence. These are united under the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence (CIVP) and bring together some 490 private wine producers, 61 cooperative producers, and over 90 wine traders. Rosé wine is a historical speciality of this wine-growing region and represents 91% of wine production. It is intimately linked to Provence’s identity, sharing the exact authenticity, sensoriality, and sense of place. Today, 38% of French AOC Rosés wines and 4.2% of Rosés in the world hail from Provence, and they are renowned for their signature style - pale pink, dry and aromatic.
VINS DE PROVENCE IN AUSTRALIA
In the last five years, exports to Australia of Vins de Provence rosé wines have shown solid and continuous growth, rising by 257% in volume and 304% in value. Although exports to Australia saw a decline in the calendar year of 2020 by 10% in volume and 4% in value due to Covid, they are already up by 96% in volume in the January-June period compared with 2020, indicating that 2021 won’t just return to it five-year growth trajectory but exceed it.
THE 2020 VINTAGE
The 2020 vintage was promising; after a wet 2019 autumn, winter was dry and one of the mildest on record, so much so the season got off to an early start. Harvest began in mid-August in the earlier ripening areas and extended longer than usual, with the last grapes picked mid-October. The hot, dry summer promoted good development for fruit ripeness, whilst the cooler temperatures in September and the return of the Mistral proved beneficial for grapes harvested late. Overall, the fruit showed lovely sugar-acid balance and concentration across the three appellations.
COMMITTED TO SUSTAINABILITY
France’s oldest wine region is not immune to the ravages of climate change. As of 2020, 17% of Provençal vineyards were certified organic; additionally, 15% have converted to the national sustainability program, Haute Valeur Environnementale (HVE) meaning High Environmental Value. HVE is found on the four pillars of plant protection strategy, fertilisation management, water resource management, and biodiversity preservation.
The CIVP is committed to sustainable agriculture, with 32% of the vineyards already certified to either the HVE system or the Agriculture Biologique system (AB). The region is working towards 60% AB or HVE certification by 2024 and 100% certification by 2030.
TRY THE NEW TRADE PLATFORM PROVENCE WINE CONNECT.
This easy-to-use tool allows you to connect with the Winemakers of Provence: exchange, discuss, and develop your business with Provence Wine Connect. www.provence-wine-connect.com
TRAVIS FULLER
CEO Kilikanoon Wines DAVID MESSUM
Consultant/Winemaker Just the Drop ASHLEY PINI
Publishing Editor Hip Media MATT DUNNE
Group Wine Ambassador & Resident Sommelier Joval Group MICHAEL MCINTOSH
Fine Wine Brand Ambassador Accolade Wines SOPHIE GITTERLE
Senior Sommelier Quay
CLAUDIO SPAHIU
Fine Wine & Champagne Specialist Rockpool Bar & Grill
HANNA BRUGNOLLI
Sommelier Rockpool Bar & Grill
STAND-OUT SELECTION
Wine of the Tasting
CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE ROSÉ 2020 COTEAUX D’AIX-ENPROVENCE RRP $26.99 | Score: 92.2% Comments: • Strawberry skin, light red fruits, mid-weight of red fruits spice. Clean and delicious - TF • Creamy palate, floral and honeyed, sweet ginger and mineral finish - HB
4. CHÂTEAU D’ESCLANS WHISPERING ANGEL ROSÉ 2020 CÔTES DE PROVENCE RRP $45 | Score: 90.2% Comment: • Slightly smoky, ethereal, cranberry. Defined and compact, upfront freshness, lovely mid-palate structure.
Yum! Keep coming back to this one! Love the savoury edginess alongside defined fruit - MD
7. CHÂTEAU PARADIS ROSÉ 2020 COTEAUX D’AIX-ENPROVENCE RRP $30 | Score: 89.2% Comment: • Super elegant and polished,
Lifted apricot and peachy flesh fruit, great acid structure, long finish - LB
Runner up
FAULKNER WINE LE GRAND CROS – L’ESPRIT DE PROVENCE ROSÉ 2020 CÔTES DE PROVENCE RRP $35 | Score: 91.1% Comment: • Citrusy nose, chalk and flowers, quite a dainty.
Nice flavours and balance.
Lingers long - TF
5. CASTEL FRERES VIDAUBAN MAISON CASTEL ROSÉ 2019 CÔTES DE PROVENCE RRP $21 | Score: 90.1% Comment: • Quite classic/textbook nose, strawberries/cream/herbs.
Mouth-filling, nice shape, spices, herbal tea, umami.
Finish gives this proper interest. Delicious - FR
8. MAISON SAINT AIX AIX ROSÉ 2020 COTEAUX D’AIX-ENPROVENCE RRP $30 | Score: 88.9% Comment: • Fennel, grapefruit pith note. Wet stones, saltiness, hints of cheese rind, sour cherry, herbal palate. Lots of complexity, and higher acidity really carries the length - looking true to style - SG
Close Third
CHÂTEAU MIRAVAL ROSÉ 2020 CÔTES DE PROVENCE RRP $35 | Score: 90.8% Comment: • Vermentino nose, grapefruit, florals, with salty tang. Very pleasing wine, nice length, harmonious - BR • Bright and fresh, cranberry and lemon pepper. Lots of vibrancey and energy on the palate. Fruit and structure in harmony. Beautiful flow and mouth puckering goodness in a glass! Classic stuff! MD
6. GASSIER LE PAS DU MOINE ROSÉ 2020 CÔTES DE PROVENCE, SAINTE-VICTOIRE RRP $48 | Score: 90% Comment: • Mineral oyster shell, ripe fruit on palate, peachy.
Interesting, good weighty fresh peach fruit keeps me coming back - BR
9. CHARMEUR ROSÉ 2020 CÔTES DE PROVENCE RRP $34 | Score: 88.5% Comment: • Fresh cranberry, strawberry, screams summer. Crunchy red fruits - raspberry, with herbaceous edge. Crunchy, good light and shade, nice flow and long length. Classic! - MD
10. CHÂTEAU DES BORMETTES INSTINCT PARCELLAIRE ROSÉ 2020 CÔTES DE PROVENCE, LA LONDE RRP $55 | Score: 88.3% Comment: • Restrained, quiet delicate strawberry leaf, raspberry.
More on bright red berry fruit, raspberry, current, strawberry. Good concentration. Some textural interest on finish like the touch of phenolics drives the palate - CR
13. VIGNOBLES JERÔME QUIOT DOMAINE HOUCHART ROSÉ 2019 CÔTES DE PROVENCE RRP $24 | Score: 87.7% Comment: • Rich generous tropical nose.
Red berries and plenty of generosity. Melon and tropical fruits are very generous. Good acid balance - AP 11. FAMILLE RAVOIRE MANON ROSÉ 2020 CÔTES DE PROVENCE RRP $25 | Score: 88.3% Comment: • Delicate stonefruit aromatics , white peach, apricot skin. Engaging good concentrations balance fresh fruit, stonefruit, white peach, strawberry leaf. Curd.
Cohesive, great flow from primary fruit, touch of lees and balanced mid finish - CR
14. BARTON & GUESTIER TOURMALINE ROSÉ 2020 CÔTES DE PROVENCE RRP $30 | Score: 87.3% Comment: • Great depth of perfume.
Hints of musk and frangipane. Delicious, restrained tropical fruit notes of mango and paw paw.
Some red fruit. Oily texture and persistent finish. Wellcrafted with depth of flavour and texture. A food friendly style - MM 12. CHÂTEAU LES MESCLANCES SAINT HONORAT ROSÉ 2020 CÔTES DE PROVENCE RRP $36 | Score: 87.8% Comment: • Vibrant juicy red fruits.
Cranberries and raspberries, greener strawberries. Hints of toffee apple. Mediumbodied. Bitter phenolics on finish. Great structure.
Complex and long on the palate. Delicious. Classic restrained style - MM
15. VINS BREBAN VILLA AIX ROSÉ 2020 COTEAUX D’AIX-ENPROVENCE RRP $26 | Score: 87.3% Comment: • Zingy cherry juice, stonefruit, bright with lovely acidity - LB • Spot on balance, Cranberry fruit, great primary acid notes. Very classic, very
Provence. Well made - DM