Mezcal Tasting

MEZCAL PANEL TASTING

The variety and complexity of flavours found in different mezcals can be baffling to the senses, especially when the varietal characteristics of a mezcal can be altered significantly by the terroir and the methods of production. No two mezcals taste the same.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Manuel Terron, Alex Gilmour, Reece Griffiths, Phil Bayly, Jose Ponce, Ben Davidson

Here at Drinks World, we thought it was fitting to get some of the most well-known mezcal and industry experts together for a tasting of this beautifully crafted agave spirit. Our friends over at Tio’s Cerveceria in Sydney’s Surry Hills were happy enough to host us for a tasting and education on mezcal.

A selection of mezcals made from different varietals were chosen including Espadín, Madrecuixe, Tobala and Mexicano variants. Aiming for a diverse range of flavours, the panel tasted each mezcal and provided some insight on the characters and profiles.

Let’s take a look at some of the finest mezcals and their flavour profiles and what the panel’s thoughts were.

THE PANEL:

• PHIL BAYLY - Global Mezcal Ambassador, Agave Love Founder

• REECE GRIFFITHS - Agave Cartel Jefe & Operations Manager, East

Village Hotel

• ALEX ‘HAPPY’ GILMOUR - Agave Spirits Guru & General Manager,

Tio’s Cerveceria

• MANUEL TERRON - Spirits Guru at Large

• JOSE PONCE – Mezcal Importer & Educator

• BEN DAVIDSON - Drinks Curator, Drinks World Magazine

ILEGAL JOVEN

40% ABV Ilegal Joven Mezcal is a beautifully balanced artisanal mezcal from Tlacolula, Oaxaca. It is made by a fourth generation mezcalero and his family using 500-year-old methods. Joven, meaning ‘un-aged’, is the purest expression of mezcal. Ilegal Joven is made from 100 per cent Espadín agave. It has deep agave aromas, with hints of green apple, citrus and white pepper.

PANEL

• Manuel Terron said the Ilegal Joven had characteristics of grilled pineapple, caramel, burnt sugar and light spices.

With its subdued intensity, it can be enjoyed neat or on the rocks. • Jose Ponce felt this mezcal had a classic smokiness and is ideal for beginners as well as a benchmark. He said, “It gives a very uniform profile of mezcal.” • Phil Bayly said “It is salty, fruity and approachable. Fresh and sweet with a dry finish”. • Alex Gilmour suggested using Illegal Joven in cocktails and long drinks with its sweet orchard fruit and light vanilla character.

Available through Vanguard Luxury Brands vanguardluxurybrands.com.au

VAGO ESPADÍN

50% ABV Vago Espadín is made from cultivated agaves in the hills above the border of Central Valley and Sierra Sur, Oaxaca. Espadín is the most prevalent agave type found in Oaxaca, with its ease of cultivation and high sugar content making it ideal for the production of mezcal. Espadín is the genetic mother of the Blue Weber Agave used in the production of tequila. Vago Espadín is an artisanal mezcal made in the lower elevations of the Yegolé valley, which contributes to the complexity of the mezcal with the terroir influence shining through. It has balanced notes of sweet potato, minerals, smokiness and bright citrus flavours.

PANEL

• Reece Griffiths found notes of menthol, green dried herbs, black tea and bitter chocolate. Ideal for sipping or citrus driven cocktails. • Phil Bayly noted bittersweet, intense, mint and butterscotch flavours with a buttery dry finish, suggesting that the “Terroir has probably given the main characteristics.” Bayly suggests the best way to enjoy this mezcal is to simply drink it straight, as does Jose Ponce.

DEL MAGUEY MINERO

49% ABV Del Maguey produces artisanal mezcals in the original handcrafted way through deep cultural relationships with Zapotec Mexican Indian producers in remote villages of Oaxaca. The Del Maguey Minero from Santa Catarina Mina is produced in a still made of clay with bamboo tubing, rather than traditional copper stills. Made from the Espadin agave, the Minero has a nose of flower essence, vanilla and figs, with a burnt honey flavour and lemon. It has a deep, warm and sweet finish. It is also distilled to proof, so the ABV varies slightly between batches.

PANEL

• Jose Ponce has nothing but admiration for Del

Maguey Minero, stating it is a “Wonderful geographical representation with a vivid profile. Full artisanal and can be enjoyed sipping with friends or for a special occasion.” • Alex Gilmour notes that the ceramic still has influenced the flavour, which he found to be brine like and sour with rockmelon notes. Ideally enjoyed neat. • Phil Bayly noted the influence of the terroir and clay pot still, citing “Huge intensity and complexity.” Bayly found the Minero to have smoke, bittersweet, fruity menthol and burnt orange liquorice characters, best enjoyed straight up. • Manuel Terron noted, “Such an approachable and character-driven product, mix in with a splash only”.

Available through Artisan Handcrafted www.artisanhandcrafted.com.au Available through Vanguard Luxury Brands vanguardluxurybrands.com.au

DEL MAGUEY MADRECUIXE

47% ABV A limited edition from Del Maguey’s Vino De Mezcal series, made in lush, remote San Luis del Rio, Oaxaca where the Red Ant river flows. Madrecuixe is a wild, tall, cylindrical maguey like Tobasiche with leaves that grow from the ground up as opposed to Tobasiche that sheds its lower leaves as it grows, leaving a bare dry cylindrical piña. These mature Madrecuixe that are used are then earth-roasted, fermented with airborne microbes, twice distilled, unblended in the original, centuries-old Oaxaca handcrafted way. This is a rare, wild-harvested mezcal, medium-bodied with a long, clean, dry finish.

PANEL

• Phil Bayly was familiar with this, straight away letting us know that this is a mezcal

“Too good to mix,” and should only be enjoyed straight. Bayly was able to find notes of pineapple, tropical fruits and butterscotch. • Reece Griffiths similarly suggested only sipping this liquid, noting the process of how

it’s produced giving it “Massive, intense green flavours.” • Manuel Terron found the Madrecuixe to have

“Light citrus characteristics with candied notes. Quite dry, yet leaves a lovely lingering flavour”. • Jose Ponce said, “Everything that matters comes through; exceptional flavour profile from varietal hibiscus botanicals.” Ponce also noted that it is “An ideal mezcal to be used in an educational masterclass as a ‘wild harvested’ benchmark.”

Available through Vanguard Luxury Brands vanguardluxurybrands.com.au

WAHAKA TOBALÁ

42% ABV Wahaka master distiller, Maestro Alberto ‘Beto’ Morales, calls the Tobalá one of the most difficult agaves to work with, noting that it “will treat you the same way that you treat it.” Found exclusively on high mountain cliffs and peaks, this wild agave is not only much smaller than other agaves, it’s also the most difficult to find and harvest. No other agave produces the variety of aromas and flavours as the Tobalá does, giving this mezcal an immediately distinguishable aroma and explosive taste enriched with sweet floral and herbaceous notes.

The artisanal Wahaka Tobalá has a bright smoky cigar, smoked cherry, chive and herb cheese aromas with a silky, dryish, medium-tofull body and a wonderful cigar ash, grassy and sweet cream driven with a lengthy finish.

PANEL

• Reece Griffiths found the Wahaka Tobalá to have juniper, black pepper and citrus notes, best enjoyed when sipped. • Alex Gilmour noted mild smoke and spice flavours in the Tobalá that are best enjoyed neat. • Phil Bayly enjoyed the light, fresh, herbaceous, sweet, fruit character that is very approachable. “The varietal has huge influence,” he commented. • Manuel Terron noted that it was “Deep and intense with a persistent finish that goes on for minutes.”

Available through Spark Group www.sgspark.com.au

EL JOLGORIO MEXICANO

47% ABV Traditional, artisanal mezcal forms an important part of rituals, ceremonies and festivities - known as ‘Jolgorios’ in villages in the native homeland of Oaxaca. Nine unique El Jolgorio Mezcals are made exclusively from different species and varieties of wild and semiwild harvested agave by Maestro Mezcaleros in local villages in Oaxaca and are twice distilled in copper pot stills. The El Jolgorio Mexicano is an artisanal mezcal made using Agave Mexicano, which is a relative of Agave Espadín and grows very large. The agaves are crushed by tahona, open fermented and doubledistilled. This mezcal is extremely complex and has a long finish.

PANEL

• Jose Ponce found this mezcal to be a great benchmark, calling it “A warming and complex mezcal with botanical notes.” • Alex Gilmour thought the El Jolgorio was more suited to being consumed neat or on ice, with its “Waxy, apple, fennel, salt and eucalyptus” notes coming though. • Reece Griffiths found notes of aniseed, fennel and cheese in the characters of this mezcal, suggesting it should be sipped.

Conversely, Manuel Terron noted its spicy and briny taste would suit a cocktail like a

Dirty Martini.

Available through Mextrade www.mextrade.com.au