Unaged Spirits

Ride the White Lightning WORDS ° Ben Davidson

With so much attention on dark spirits, aged in oak barrels for years, it’s nice to pause and shine a light on some of the outstanding examples of unaged spirits, (other than gin and vodka), where all the flavours are derived from their specific raw materials, the method of distillation and the skill of the distiller.

The Latin term ‘aqua vitae’ was first used to describe spirits when this new liquid trickled out of primitive alembic stills. This ‘eau de vie’, or ‘water of life’ is still a fitting description for unaged spirits, which are as clear as the water from which they are named. This pervasive thought gave rise to the names of both whiskey, vodka and is still the name for French Eau de Vie fruit spirit.

Whether a spirit is aged or unaged is usually determined by whether it has rested in an oak barrel for a certain length of time. There are minimum aging times in oak across the spirits industry for a spirit to be called a whisky, an Añejo, a Calvados or a VSOP Cognac. It’s through the interaction of the spirit with the oak and air inside the barrel that the spirit becomes aged. Once a spirit is removed from an oak cask, the aging process is considered to have stopped.

The best unaged spirits are such that they don’t need oak to enhance their flavour and are created from a specific selection of raw materials that each give different characters and flavours to the spirit. For me, the best Pisco, Mezcal, Eau de Vie or Moonshine captures an intensity and concentration of the raw material to create a pure expression of flavour that is in balance with the level of alcohol that it contains.

GRAIN SPIRIT

There has been a massive resurgence in craft distilling with grain-based spirits leading the charge, as new distillers have a crack at making whiskey. Whilst waiting for the whiskey to age, producers have released unaged versions of their ‘new make spirit’, whilst others more recently have decided to take Moonshine to the masses by producing a well-made and respectable version of the (illegal) real thing.

Distilling and drinking unaged high proof grain spirit, (aka Moonshine), has been and still is an American specialty, inspired by the early days and the belief in freedom of distilling. The modern practitioners of this right have been applying themselves in legal distilleries popping up again all over the place! The new prevalence of Moonshine has lead to a new appreciation for balanced and characterful grain spirit, to be enjoyed neat or mixed.

ARCHIE ROSE WHITE RYE 40% ABV

Archie Rose brought distilling back to the Sydney in 2015 with a purpose-built distillery pumping out a magnificently flavourful barley and rye grain spirit from their unique copper pot stills. Their White Rye is uniquely distilled from rare malted rye and barley sourced from the finest local producers, and greets you with cinnamon, nutmeg and spicy notes that envelope the palate. Twice distilled, it features a lingering, buttery finish with a subtle smokiness, and can be savoured straight or in your cocktail like the White Whiskey Sour.

Ironbark Still

IRONBARK DISTILLERY CORN RYE MOONSHINE 45% ABV

Making Shine since 2013, Reg Papps helped put Australian Moonshine on the map! Made from a traditional recipe, this is a corn and rye based spirit that is reminiscent of bourbon that has had no aging in the barrel, creating a full-bodied and delicious flavoured Moonshine that’s sure to leave you with that warm moonshiner buzz. It is mashed using all Australian grain, and truly is a unique spirit.

When asked about the Ironbark methods that contribute to the style Reg says, “The still style is important as this is how we impart flavour into the spirit. Plated stills allow for both purity and flavour transfer from the mash, which is crucial to producing a clean spirit that can be mixed well. We use an eight plate column still to handcraft the Moonshine, styled with a traditional mash bill of corn, rye grain, for spice and barley for a creamy back note, the method used is identical to how traditional American Moonshines are crafted.

“Our flavour profile is big corn notes combined with a hint of pepper from the rye grain and creamy back notes from the barley. Served

best over ice, or can be used in many variations of cocktails. Has been described as a perfect interpretation of an American classic, produced in Australia.”

MELBOURNE MOONSHINE SOUR MASH SHINE 50% ABV

The new Shine Misters on the block, the Melbourne Moonshine gang has brought Shine to the people! Using local corn to create the sour ‘wash’ which provides the basis for the warm, sweet, strong kick of a true Southern white lightning merged with the clean, refined and utterly enjoyable drinkability of a modern Melburnian drop.

When asked about the Melbourne Moonshine way, Moonshiner Andrew Fitzgerald proudly states, “Our Moonshine is made to be a Moonshine. It’s not an unaged whiskey that we have released as a Moonshine. That’s an important factor. We make some whiskey as well, but that is made to go into barrel to balance out the flavours”.

Andrew went on to say, “It’s our dedication to making the spirit as smooth as possible but still carry significant flavour. We take 16 samples across the distillation cycle and taste all of them. It’s time consuming and inefficient in a lot of ways but by doing this, we don’t rely on ABV to select our cuts. We don’t worry about efficiency as much as we do taste, that’s a distinct difference between us and the bigger producers. We don’t recycle ‘heads’ into our sour mash for instance. We don’t do that because we found it created a harsher spirit”. When pressed about Moonshine’s reputation, Andrew opined, “Moonshine, at least how we make it, takes all the finesse (and in parts more) that whiskey distilling takes. It’s not a cheap cousin, it’s a delicious alternative”. Shine on, you crazy diamonds. Can I get an Amen!

Ole Smoky Still

OLE SMOKY WHITE LIGHTNING 50% ABV

Ole Smoky Moonshine is distilled from local East Tennessee corn grown a few miles from the distillery, using only local ingredients and pristine Tennessee water to create a smooth and authentic tasting Shine.

Ole Smoky is Appalachian born and bred. The Ole Smoky families were among the first to step foot in the Smoky Mountains and were forced to make Moonshine in order to survive during tough economic times.

“When Tennessee state law changed to allow the distillation of spirits, we saw an opportunity to showcase the art of superior mountain-made Moonshine. Ole Smoky is the first federally licensed distillery in the history of East Tennessee. Like other moonshiners and bootleggers, we know it’s considered risky to tell stories of moonshine glory. The consequences of talking back in the day made it something you just didn’t do. But those days are gone, and it’s hard not to brag when you’re makin’ and sellin’ Ole Smoky Tennessee Moonshine.”

GRAPE SPIRIT

Most quality grape based spirits and Cognac Eau de Vie are sent to the aging warehouses to mature, however some of the most interesting grape spirits are the unaged Piscos of Peru, especially the Mosto Verdes style with low ABV distillation, capturing the most delicate flavours of the grapes.

Grape based raw materials also give rise to the somewhat mysterious and austere Grappa and Marc spirits, each made with fermentable ‘waste’ from the winemaking process.

PISCO PORTON MOSTO VERDE QUEBRANTA 43% ABV

Pisco Porton Mosto Verde is handcrafted at the oldest distillery in the Americas, Hacienda La Caravedo, established in 1684 in Ica, Peru. It is a full-bodied and luxurious of estate-grown grapes, carefully crafted in the mosto verde style by Master Distiller Johnny Schuler.

This Pisco has a velvety, creamy texture and layers of delicious flavour like dried fruits, fresh flowers and vanilla.

CAMPO DE ENCANTO QUEBRANTA DISTILLER’S RESERVE

Created by Duggan McDonnell, owner of legendary Cantina bar in San Francisco, this pisco won the Gran Medalla de Oro for being Peru’s best pisco in its inaugural year. Campo De Encanto is alembic distilled only once and nothing is added, no sugar, no preservatives; not even a drop of water.

Quebranta was the first grapevine planted in South America, and this Distiller’s Reserve Single Vineyard Pisco selection is a rare gem. You’ll taste almonds and apricot blossoms, bell peppers and cassis with lingering notes of chocolate.

FRUIT SPIRIT EAU DE VIE / RAKIA

A wide array of fermentable fruits have been used to create a spirit that the French have called Eau de Vie since the dawn of distillation. Pears, apple, cherries, plums, apricots and even raspberries have all been used to create, powerful, aromatic, yet nuanced un-aged spirits.

Fine examples of these include Poire William, Kirsch, Mirrabelle, Framboise and others are available through Melbourne-based Cerbaco who have been the torch bearers for exquisite French liqueurs, crèmes and eau de vie from producers Massenez and Bertrand.

Other idiosyncratic, eastern European unaged fruit spirits, fall under the name Rakia or similar derivatives, the most well known being the Damson plum brandy called Slivovitz.

AGAVE SPIRIT ARTISANAL MEZCAL

Once the true taste of agave is appreciated by tasting an Artisanal Mezcal from a small producer in Oaxaca, you can instantly see how exquisitely complex, smooth and powerful unaged agave spirit can be. Oak would only take away from the intense vegetal, spicy, pungent, savoury pepper notes found in the best single village Mezcals, like those from Del Maguey, Wahaka and Leyenda.