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The Tasting Panel: Navy Strength and Overproof Spirits
For this edition of the Drinks World Tasting Panel, we assembled a team of rum and gin experts to taste some fine examples of these overproof spirits and evaluate the flavour profiles – how they are accentuated by the higher strength of alcohol present in the spirit.
BEN DAVIDSON
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Drinks World
KRYSTAL HART
Diageo World Class
TOM BULMER
Rum Club
MITCH WILSON
Plantation Rum
NIGEL WEISBAUM
Archie Rose
MIKE ENRIGHT
The Barber Shop
ARCHIE ROSE DISTILLER’S STRENGTH GIN
RRP: $99 DISTRIBUTOR: SWIFT & MOORE
Fruity and floral nose of honeysuckle, pear, citrus, pine and rose. A smooth, rich mouth feel holds slowly released sweet flavours of liquorice and fruit. This pear forward gin has a nice balance and strength of flavour, leading Mikey Enright to label it his, “favourite of the Archie Rose range”.
WILDBRUMBY ‘STALLION’ NAVY STRENGTH GIN
This spirit has earthy, musty aromas of stone, wild gumtree, forest floor and leather. On the palate, there are distinct spicy notes of ginger, peppercorn and bay leaf along with a citrus finish. Overall, there is a definite winter feel to this gin.
PLYMOUTH NAVY STRENGTH GIN
RRP: $100 DISTRIBUTOR: WHOLESALE RETAILERS
This gin has scents of lemon peel, soft earth, wood, spice and angelica. It is very dry to taste, with citrus dominating the palate. This flavour maintains good length throughout, with the lemon peel hitting the front of the palate before the intensity of the spirit controls the depth. Mitch Wilson calls it, “almost a pre-batched martini. Thick and velvety.”
HERNÖ NAVY STRENGTH GIN
RRP: $100 DISTRIBUTOR: VANGUARD LUXURY BRANDS
Earthy spices are at the front and centre of this gin’s aroma, with hints of peppercorn, coriander, mandarin, lemon myrtle and pine. Spicy on the palate, the taste is of black pepper, fresh pine, menthol, spice and juniper. Coriander seed dominates, along with liquorice notes that carry the sweetness through to the finish. Described by our panel as a ‘Northern European taste’.
FOUR PILLARS NAVY STRENGTH GIN
RRP: $110 DISTRIBUTOR: VANGUARD LUXURY BRANDS
Tumeric leads the scent profile, with other spices, citrus and pine also on the nose. Full, round flavours of juniper, anise and saffron coat the palate and create a balanced spirit. A drop of water brings out delicious notes of coriander seeds. Our panel called it a, “great gin. Complex and earthy, with a nice citrus balance.”
TANQUERAY NO. 10
RRP: $75 DISTRIBUTOR: DIAGEO
Strong, upfront aromas of grapefruit fade into scents of chamomile, rich wood, spice and florals. On the palate, grapefruit and soothing
chamomile are dominant, with subtle notes of whole fruits and fresh citrus. Mitch Wilson called it, “delicious from start to finish.”
HOOCHERY ORD RIVER RUM
The rich, golden amber colour heralds a European influenced rum, with aromas of toffee, sherry, Christmas cake and wine. This English style molasses rum tastes of wine, cinnamon and Christmas cake. Sweet at the start, dry sherry notes then balance out the flavour before a finish of light orange and wood. Nigel Weisbaum says it is overall a, “really delicious, soft, enjoyable rum.”
INNER CIRCLE RUM GREEN LABEL
RRP: $65 DISTRIBUTOR: VOK BEVERAGES
Industrial scents of petroleum and gasoline open up to aromas of bitter caramel, molasses and warm spices. The palate is spicy and tropical, with notes of stewed pineapple, fruits, caramel and rich spices. The high ABV is not shy in this rum. Tom Bulmer said it is, “fantastic to see green dot reproduced with such passion and balance.”
BUNDABERG OP RUM
RRP: $64.95 DISTRIBUTOR: DIAGEO
Bundy shines bright at a higher proof! Wafts of rich molasses, anise and winter spice precede a full, hot palate of bright ester with banana notes. The classic Bundaberg flavours are better balanced at a higher ABV and it was pleasantly received by out judging panel.
PLANTATION O.F.T.D. RUM
RRP: $79 DISTRIBUTOR: NEAT SPIRITS
Scents of tropical stone fruits, caramel, burnt molasses and slight spice. This full-bodied rum has notes of banana, burnt dark caramel, Christmas spice and stone fruits. The slight acidity turns into a distinctly salty finish. Nigel Weisbaum summarised it best: “Outstanding to have a balanced, rich, spicy and flavourful rum at such a high ABV. F*cking delicious!”
INNER CIRLCE RUM BLACK LABEL
RRP: $85 DISTRIBUTOR: VOK BEVERAGES
This rum packs a serious punch. Underneath, there are aromas of Christmas cake and winter spice. The very hot palate has flavours of tropical fruits, banana and passionfruit, which lead to a dry finish. “Really full on to start, but when the alcohol evaporates it has a nice balance to it.”
