Buffalo Trace

BUFFALO TRACE The Buffalo Trace distillery, in Frankfort Kentucky, claims to be the oldest continuously operating distillery in the United States. Naturally, that means a rich and bourbon-soaked history. Burks, which produces Maker’s Mark, has Guinness Book of Records recognition as being the oldest, dating back to 1805, but distilling started on the Buffalo Trace site in 1775, at the hands of the Lee brothers, Hancock and Willis. An actual distillery was constructed in 1812, by Harrison Blanton, whose name adorns a famous and high-quality line of bourbons today. Although, it was actually Harrison’s descendent, Albert, for whom those bourbons are named. In 1792, Kentucky joined the Union, the fifteenth State to do so.

Edmund H. Taylor, a descendant of not one but two former US presidents (Madison and Taylor), purchased the distillery in 1870 and named it the Old Fire Copper Distillery (affectionately known as the ‘OFC’). He sold it, and another distillery, to George T. Stagg in 1878, though he continued to work with the distillery. Stagg installed steam heating in the storage areas, the first attempt at climate control for the maturation of whiskey in America. This steam heating is still used today. In 1904, the name was changed to the George T. Stagg Distillery.

The distillery was purchased by the Sazerac Company in 1992. The name was changed, yet again, in 1999 to Buffalo Trace Distillery, which comes from an ancient buffalo crossing on the banks of the nearby Kentucky River. The famous Daniel Boone had passed through, following the trace, just a few years before the Lee brothers distilled their first whiskey.

Current Master Distiller, Harlen Wheatley, was appointed to his position in 2005, replacing Gary Gayheart, who had held the role since 1972. Wheatley is just the sixth Master Distiller to hold the role since the Civil War.

In 2016, a $200 million expansion commenced. During these renovations, what has become known as ‘Bourbon Pompeii’ was discovered. Slowly, the excavators unveiled the original distillery, including intact 11,000-gallon fermenting tanks which were built by Taylor. His distillery was first established in 1869, but was demolished and rebuilt, bigger and better, in 1873, for what was then a massive amount of money – $70,000USD. This new distillery lasted only until 1882 before it was consumed by fire, initiated by a lightning strike, just four years after the sale to Stagg.

It seems not all of it was destroyed. Taylor, still working with the new operation, apparently rebuilt over the remains of the earlier distillery and eventually what was left behind was forgotten. Much of the rebuild involved copper, as Taylor believed it provided a superior product. The cost of this new distillery was the full amount of the insurance, plus a further $44,000. The new distillery was used until the 50s when it was knocked down and concreted over, to be used for storage purposes. Historians and distillers alike are fascinated by this site, which is now open to the public, not least because it seems many of the processes of the day vary considerably from current practices. Enter Albert Bacon Blanton, Harrison’s son, who worked at the distillery for well over half a century, joining as an office boy at 16 in 1897. By 1921, he was President of the company. Blanton was born on the next door farm and led the operation through the perils of Prohibition (producing ‘medicinal whisky’ as one of only four producers allowed to do so), a devastating flood in 1937, which was measured, at its peak, as 17 feet above the power plant, and beyond.

The Blanton’s Single Barrel Bourbon, introduced in 1984, was the first single barrel bourbon produced and came from a concept that Blanton had used for his private stocks. Aged for six to eight years, it is matured in Warehouse H, notable as their only metalclad warehouse, which promotes more rapid ageing due to quicker heat transference. This warehouse was built before World War II, under the watch of Blanton. The concept of this single barrel bourbon was introduced by Elmer Lee, the master distiller and a man hired by Blanton back in 1949. Most of the different Blanton’s expressions are exported and unavailable in the USA – something that fails to engender a great deal of sympathy with bourbon fans abroad, as they really are excellent spirits. Blanton passed away in 1959. In 2013, the distillery was named a ‘National Historic Landmark’.

Their illustrious history aside, nothing says more about this distillery than a roll call of the bourbons they produce, for themselves, in joint ventures, and on contract for bottlers. The Buffalo Trace bourbons, Col. E. H. Taylor, Eagle Rare, George T. Stagg, McAfee’s Benchmark, O.F.C., Old Taylor, Sazerac, Thomas H. Handy, W. L. Weller, the Wheatley vodka, Blanton’s single-barrel, Elmer T. Lee and, of course, the famous Pappy van Winkle’s Family Reserve. There are many others.

This distillery will always hold a special place in the heart of bourbon lovers around the world.