Tasmanian Journey, Fred Siggins

ON THE TRAIL OF TASMANIAN WHISKY

For a whisky-fuelled adventure of epic proportions, follow the dots to these and many other thriving distilleries around the Apple Isle.

WORDS FRED SIGGINS

“ON YOUR WAY OUT OF KEMPTON, YOU CAN ALSO SWING BY OLD KEMPTON DISTILLERY (FORMERLY REDLANDS) WHERE YOU CAN INVEST IN YOUR VERY OWN TWENTY-LITRE BARREL OF TASMANIAN SINGLE MALT WHISKY. JUST BE PREPARED FOR A TWOYEAR WAIT BEFORE YOU CAN DRINK IT.”

Just a few years ago, if you wanted to make a pilgrimage to the best whisky distilleries in the world, you were in for a very long flight. But now you can tour the places where Australia’s craft whisky movement was born and continues to thrive and innovate, for the cost of a ticket to Tasmania.

With pristine air and water, as well as some of the best grain-growing land in the world, it’s no surprise that Tasmanian whisky is recognised for its quality around the globe. Couple that with a booming hospitality and tourism industry, and all around the island you’ll find the tastiest things to eat or drink anywhere in Australia.

HELLYERS ROAD

Beginning in the north of the state (you can fly into Launceston or take the Spirit of Tasmania ferry from Melbourne), head west towards the beautiful town of Burnie. Situated on the north coast, this small community sports a stunning beachfront, and grassland so lush it’d keep the hungriest of cows happy. Which brings us to Hellyers Road Distillery. Founded by a group of dairy farmers in 1997, Hellyers Road is one of Australia’s longest running whisky distilleries, and a founding member of the Tassie scene. One of the first distilleries to use Australian Pinot Noir barrels to age single malt, Hellyer’s Road takes a uniquely Aussie approach to whisky making. The single malts produced here are also some of most widely available and best value, with a scale of production far more prominent than most of the state’s small craft operations. Here, you can take a guided tour to learn about the whisky making process and the history of the area, and even have the chance to dip your own bottle in wax – a truly special Tasmanian souvenir.

BELGROVE

Heading south from Burnie through the central highlands (stop off for a hike up Cradle Mountain for breath-taking views), and on down through the middle of the state towards Hobart, you’ll go right past Belgrove Distillery near Kempton. The brainchild of farmer, engineer, and sculptor and all around good bloke Peter Bignell, Belgrove is one of the only genuinely grain-to-glass distilleries in the world, meaning every part of the process from growing the grains to hand-labelling the bottles happens here.

The idea for a distillery came when Peter’s rye crop produced more than he needed to feed the sheep. The solution was the first ever Tasmanian rye whisky, and it’s some of the best in the world. Belgrove is known for sustainability, with the stills running on biodiesel (made of leftover fryer oil from the local greasy spoon), and also for experimentation, using Tasmanian peat to smoke the grains, or making spirits from ginger beer. And while a lot of distilleries throw around terms like “artisanal” and “small batch”, Belgrove is the real deal.

On your way out of Kempton, you can also swing by Old Kempton Distillery (formerly Redlands) where you can invest in your very own twenty-litre barrel of Tasmanian single malt whisky. Just be prepared for a two-year wait before you can drink it.

SHENE ESTATE

South of Kempton on the road to Hobart stands Shene Estate & Distillery. This collection of gorgeous sandstone buildings is 199 years old and was built as the ostentatious country residence of early colonialist Gamaliel Butler. Painstakingly restored by custodians and owners the Kernke family, the estate has only been opened to outside visitors within the last few years, and now includes a craft distillery within the grounds.

As well as a lovely gin, Shene produces a malt whisky that has been triple-distilled on Tasmania’s largest copper pot still. These production methods are inspired by the Irish style and result in a lighter, more refined spirit. Swing by for a tour of the stunning grounds while sipping on one of these award-winning spirits, and you might even see a polo game in action. It’s the closest thing you’ll get to the grand distilleries of Scotland here in Australia.

LARK

Once you hit Hobart, leave the car and nip down to the Lark Cellar Door for a nip of Tasmania’s liquid gold. This cosy spot right on the docks offers a staggering array of Tasmanian whiskies to try, as well as local beers and bottles of Lark for sale. Afterwards, you can continue exploring the culinary and cultural delights of Tasmania’s capital.

Founder of Lark Distillery, Bill Lark is the man who, back in the early 1990s, had a vision for Tasmanian single malt. But to get his product off the ground, he had to contend with an archaic law that had banned the distillation of spirits in Tasmania all the way back in 1838.

Many people don’t realise there was a thriving distilling industry in Hobart in the 1830s, as the colonists made use of the excellent barley and clean mountain water to produce local hooch. But in 1838 Governor Franklin decided he didn’t like the effects these local spirits were having on the colony, so he banned their production outright. It’s a prohibition that would last for over 150 years. Lucky for us, Bill fought the law, and whisky won, paving the way for Lark Distillery to open in 1992. He also came up with a uniquely Australian style of single malt that’s widely imitated by other distillers; using small barrels to impart intense flavours in a short period of time and making use of casks from Australia’s longstanding fortified wine industry.

The distillery itself, located close to Hobart in the Coal River Valley, is currently closed for tours due to construction work, but keep an eye out for the re-opening soon.

SULLIVANS COVE

SPRING BAY

If your trip includes the spectacular East Coast of Tasmania, near Orford, you’ll find Spring Bay Distillery. One of newest distilleries in Tassie, Spring Bay is run by a husband and wife team producing lovely malt whiskies on a single 1,200-litre copper pot still. Located only 500 metres off the beach, this is a genuinely coastal distillery and the epitome of local craft. To get a tour, you’ll have to give them a bell ahead of time, but with a bit of warning, they’d love to show you around. While Tassie whisky has become big business in recent years, tiny, family-run operations like Spring Bay are still an essential part of the industry’s character. And considering how small they are, you’re unlikely to get a taste of this whisky anywhere else. Finally, on your way to fly home, stop in at Sullivans Cove Distillery. Located in an industrial park near Hobart airport, this tin shed surrounded by chain-link fence isn’t much to look at. But inside, the crew here are making the whisky that put Tassie on the map.

Established in 1994, Sullivans Cove has had plenty of time to perfect their single malts. Their spirits are matured for plenty of time too, producing on average the oldest whiskies in Australia by far. Being allowed to age slowly in full-sized casks for up to eighteen years (and counting), might be one of the reasons Sullivans Cove is so well-regarded both at home and internationally, consistently beating out whiskies from Scotland, Japan and the rest of the world at international competitions. The big one came in 2014 when their French Oak Single Cask won “World’s Best Single Malt” at the World Whiskies Awards. This year, they’ve backed it up with their American Oak Single Cask winning “World’s Best Single Cask Single Malt”. Not bad for a tin shed near the airport.

Sullivans Cove is open seven days for tastings and tours, and the passionate staff are full of great facts and stories. This is also one of the only places you’re able to leave with a bottle of one of the world’s most sought-after single malts, produced right here in Tasmania, Australia’s home for world-class whisky.