Contents
-INTRODUCTIONTrend-
Armoured
who? youth (16-35) where? inner city london why? the rise in knife and gun crime is putting more and more youths at risk: answer= fashionable armour how? trends occuring because of this, someencorporating armour, materials and traditions from the times of The Samurai along with metal protection inspired by circa 1700s parade armour, others inspired by ideas of prevention.
1. HOUNOURABLE ADORNMENT 2. HIGH SHINE 3. QUADRATURA ARMADURA 4. Structure/regime
Words: Rachel Smith
2
Introduction
Chanel Samurai
“It’s
always worse when the gang hires someone else
to do the killing. They only give a discription of 3
the person they want taking care of. So the hit man hasn’t even seen the guy he’s guna shoot before. Sometimes they shoot the wrong person. Them, if the person who was killed by mistake was in a gang,
”
their gang goes and gets revenge
Mailk Garvey-
london youth
The increase in knife and gun crime is taking its hold on England. Knives are being used in almost 4 out of 10 killings in the UK, and people, especially youths, are fearing for their safety. Even with Knife amnesties, neighbourhood clampdowns, tougher sentencing, metal detectors in schools and plans to make knife-carriers meet and confront their victims there has still been no lasting reduction in knife and gun crime. police seem to have exhausted every last hope of reducing these statistics leaving young people still living with a constant fear. We need to evolve. We need to think. We need to deal with this problem. We need to find the cause and more importantly we need to find the prevention...
ONE:
Honourable adornment
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Honourable Adornment
5
The use of embellishment creates a new dimension to any item of clothing, And in the time of The Samurai, the more adorned the armour the more powerful the wearer. Jewels, pearls, gilded copper and black alloy create a powerful, protective and luxurious garment. Not only functional but beautiful. With the need to protect elevating, along with the need to show status and power through clothi ng, the use of embellishment will flurish.
The colours or images featured on a garment can show status and power, In Samurai armour, the ‘mon’ (family crest) featured predominatly in the mans armour, not only to honour the family but to show their status. Similar in London gang culture the colours worn, the symbols placed or the scarf shown gives the person idetity and status.
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7
Elaborate
Enrich
Overstate
8
Key Pieces spikes - jeans
9 Pattern created by adornment
Coloured texture
sheer overwelmed with embellishment
10 Layers of heavy additives- the more jewels the better
Higher the Platforms= higher the status
Materials These materials are bold, conflicting and come with impact. They work together to create adorned garments, fit for a queen.
Sheer
diamante
leather
Studs
Feathers
pearls
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Colours Bright, regal colours, punchy and luxurious, Think empress adorened in gold, reds and royal blues.
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Hair
13
Colour is a focal point
Adorment continued to the hair
Make- Up
14 elegant, powerful lines
Feathers-soft, like the colours
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TWO:
High Shine
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High Shine 17
“tHE FASHION FOR PARADE ARMOURS, HOWEVER, CONTINUED. tHEY WERE NOW USUALLY DECORATED WITH ELABORATE EMBOSSED FOLIAGE, GROTESQUES AND CLASSICAL SCENES, GENERALLY DAMASCENDED IN GOLD OR SILVER... iN ADDITION SEMI-PRECIOUS STONES WERE OFTEN SET ALONG THE BORDERS.” Armour can protect but also impress. The intricate decoration placed on a metal backdrop can be awe inspiring, worn with colours and soft fabrics this trend can protect the body aswell as enhance it.
A tough looks, with metal as its staple material. The body is used as a mold, to create figure hugging body pieces, with intricate fastenings, impressive shine and texture. The light that bounces off the surface creates a whirlpool of colour. Chainmail along with scales are prominent. Making striking garments that give saftey aswell as individuality.
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Intricate
19
molded
Armour Art
Golds and Silvers
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delicate Chainmail
Key Pieces Metal work Bodice
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3 Dimensional garments
leg/arm armour
22
Soft materials used to create chainmail
High Shine materials
Materials
Metal/chainmail
Light Leather
Foil Fabric
23
Knitted wool chainmail
sequins
Velvet
Colours
24
Hair
metal ‘Helmet’
Texture
shine accessories
25
metal colour palette
Make- Up
26 pale gold leaf
Powerful eyes
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THREE:
Quadratura Armadura
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Quadratura Armadura
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Quaratura defined: �Introduced in the 17th Century...with approaches to deception... The artist would paint a feigned architecture in perspective on a flat or barrel-vaulted ceiling in such a way that it seems to continue the existing architecture.� Inspired by the graphic images seen on The samurais along with the intricate incravings seen on parade armour, Quadratura Armadura
incorporates the idea of escapism with the bold shapes of protection.The fairytale imagery placed on the garments gives a dreamy impression of a utopia, contrasted with the bold lines and colours of armour bravado. This trend gives hope of a better world, a pastel coloured bliss waiting on the other side. Everythings simple, the colours, the shapes. the make- up and the hair.
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Intricate scenes 31
Pastel colours
Printed Photographs
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Watercolours
Key Pieces
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Landscape
Foliage patterns
Quaint pastels 34
Busy oriental patterns
Materials
Silk
Sheer/delicate
Canvas
35
Jewels- Embellishment
Printed Fabric
Paint
Colours
36
Hair
Pretty pastels Grunge contrast 37
dip dye
Make- Up Pastels continued
38
Natural
delicate shapes
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FOUR:
Structure and Regime
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Structure and Regime 41
Structure is needed to control, and control is needed to have Structure. With gang crime running wild in London, the need for control is overwhelming, but who’s the higher ranking? The police? Or the gang leader? ‘Structure and Regime ‘ is influenced by this fight for control, the bold imposing lines contrasted with bright clashing colours.
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The structure of leather and metals contradicted by soft light fabrics, giving a strong female edge. The contours of the body are fighting with the new lines creted by the clothes creating a dominating look.
Heavy and rugid Lines
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Contrasted with Lace
Tough
Colour, Colour, Colour.
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Key Pieces Dominatrix
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Heavy accessories
delicate knits- layered
Contasting colours
46 Dividing lines
delicate fabric that’s internally structered
Materials
Lace
Thick leather
Fishnet
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leather Thonging
Sheer/delicate
Cheesecloth
Colours
48
Hair Structured Plaits
49
Blunt cuts and colours
Asymetry
Make- Up
Lines
50
Sections
Contrasting colours
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References Introductionhttp://www.japanator.com/elephant/ul/13003-620x-head.jpgchanel samurai
HNOURABLE ADORNMENT
http://headstylelove.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/alexander-mcqueen-headdress.jpg -alexander mcqueen headress own
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own http://jivemecca.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/alexander-mcqueen-embellishments.jpg alexander mcqueen dress own own - Felder Felder coats http://cache2.asset-cache.net/xc/95854083.jpg?v=1&c=IWSAsset&k=2&d=77BFBA49EF87892 1A343B2C87A49D8F5E7D7D7DD91A48679EB6E15BC037F117091968965A9A81632E30A760B0D811297 – embellishment dress turquoise http://www.butterboom.com/wp-content/gallery/prada-spring-2010/prada_ss2010_butterboom-8.jpg- prada dress silver http://alexloves.com/2010/09/jasper-garvida-ss11-backstage-interview/- jasper gavinda purple http://projectlena.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/x66163799262752184_4.jpg- gareth pugh www.dubaisitgirl.com
Laura Theis colour in texture
http://trendland.net/2010/07/19/givenchy-2010-paris-couture-collection/#more-46705 – Givenchy 2010 2 dresses + and jacket http://trendland.net/2010/12/05/the-artisan-collection-by-noritaka-tatehana/noritaka-tatehana-12/ The Artisan Collection by Noritaka Tatehana -shoes platforms
http://www.powersewing.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/SheerFabric.jpg - sheer http://www.ukherd.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/1182138940_b0b36d843d1.jpg - dimonds http://sassysasquatch.com/images/Coja-Leather-EXP.jpg - leather http://www.upscalehype.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Bessjacketss.jpg - leather and studds http://www.gtfloristsupplies.co.uk/images/nice_feathers_free_screensaver_26969[1]. jpg – feathers colour http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_drGhHjlJo38/S2IFQK6Y3cI/AAAAAAAAACY/m7_gTynqWHs/S660/ pearls.jpg - pearls http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wVvd7h_ZXK4/TWYV88VT1UI/AAAAAAAAUuQ/Z3d6gz3oYQo/s800/ Henry+Leutwyler+4.jpg – glove http://ohnojoh.files.wordpress.com/2010/02/pantone_2002_red.jpg - pantone swatchs http://i.models.com/feed/i/2011/01/BEN_TOMS_DAZED_7.jpg - samurai - | Daiane Conterato, Jaco van den Hoven & Willy Cartier by Ben Toms for Dazed & Confused February 2011 http://roadfashion.files.wordpress.com/2008/03/head11.jpg?w=655 – headdress Alexander http://headstylelove.com/id/hair/page/2/ - hair colour http://headstylelove.com/id/haute-couture/ - headdress gold http://www.imagebam.com/image/a233aa121083461 - bold make up double faces http://api.ning.com/files/7iOq0WHpQs0jEHHUIlXauIkjoMjlHgowZXC2EDVxsD4BA72mwvSfnwtA86z8-m6X6We8fzpKxSCo11FjPouchOaPVAZv-oqP/makeup_like_a_peacock_bold_colors_eye_makeup.jpg - colourful feathers http://www.patternity.co.uk/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/PATTERNITY_17_JEWELFACE_SEAN-SENG-AYAMI-NISHIMURA.png - jewel face
HIGH SHINE
REFERNCE BOOK –ARMOUR CIRCA 1700S Own http://www.wildhunt.org/paganfashion2.jpg -alexander gold armour own http://trendland.net/2011/03/11/paco-rabanne-goes-back-to-ready-to-wear/paco-rabanne-iconic-metal-antique-silver/ - pacco rabanne http://gagafashionland.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/9-armour.jpg - alexander mc queen 2 images
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http://www.catwalkqueen.tv/assets_c/2009/06/iris%20van%20herpen%20london%20fashion%20week%202009-thumb-430x351-90085.jpg – IRIS VAN HERPEN http://trendland.net/2009/03/09/animals-samurai-armor/# animal armourhttp://www.independent.co.uk/multimedia/archive/00128/mensfashion1AFP_128765t.jpg - mens armour mcqueen http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_hJP_wKUNm4E/TPWahdQtjnI/AAAAAAAAAzI/flWOcvEh23I/s1600/ ELENE_2.jpg- body paint chain mail http://hypetrak.com/images/2010/05/michael-jackson-sock.jpg - sock Michael Jackson http://www.imagebam.com/image/43fa81119512660 -very sexy dress x 3 http://trendland.net/2011/03/11/paco-rabanne-goes-back-to-ready-to-wear/paco-rabanne-iconic-metal-antique-silver/ - pacco rabanne http://www.imagebam.com/image/a51e12122681395 - amazing dress, gold feathers *http://www.imagebam.com/image/f1a438121530880 – metal dress http://www.imagebam.com/image/43ff5c121530711 – metal bodice http://iwantigot.geekigirl.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/12/20061215_balenciaga9.jpg - leggings http://cdn.trendhunterstatic.com/phpthumbnails/37/37821/37821_4_468.jpeg - Mcqueen Arm armour
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http://www.imagebam.com/image/f5bea1121872357- key pieces, shine leather jacket http://www.imagebam.com/image/ff65ae121872241- gareth ough high shine http://media.photobucket.com/image/opening%20ceremony%20toga/ajbar7/fashionising/ eight/v5ebm1.jpg - toga shoes http://www.imagebam.com/image/1984ee122102573 - new chainmail beyonce http://www.trendir.com/archives/whiting-davis-metal-mesh-fabrics.jpg - metal http://www.hexluv.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/step1.jpg - leather http://www.tts-group.co.uk/_rmvirtual/media/tts/images/EY03891.jpg - foil fabric http://ny-image0.etsy.com/il_fullxfull.60548572.jpg - chainmail knit http://colourstreams.com.au/store/images/S2f%20bronze%20gold%20.jpg – sequins http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3661/3332477693_cfaaf065c5.jpg - velvet http://www.nickgarbutt.com/images/dmImage/xLargeImage/090212_053137546_Borneo-Peacock-Pheasant_2.jpg - feathers http://www.creativereview.co.uk/images/uploads/2008/12/swatch.jpg - pantone http://selfpublishbehappy.com/2011/03/book-to-come-sorority-skin-tones-a-pantonecolor-guide-by-travis-shaffer/ -pinky http://selfpublishbehappy.com/2011/03/book-to-come-sorority-skin-tones-a-pantonecolor-guide-by-travis-shaffer/ - brown
http://selfpublishbehappy.com/2011/03/book-to-come-sorority-skin-tones-a-pantonecolor-guide-by-travis-shaffer/ - nude http://www.style.com/blogs/beautycounter/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/mcqueen-backstage-beauty-fall-2011.jpg - metal clips http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_JWSo9JM99Co/ScUQADknMQI/AAAAAAAACCU/SaVdWPP30jw/s400/ high+fashion+makeup.jpg – head coins http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aE-oyoeA8XI/TV1pY4KLkJI/AAAAAAAAN5U/GhtcHc5Ibs0/ s1600/Wanessa%2BMilhomem%2Bby%2BJames%2BMeakin%2B%2528Love%2Band%2BLonging%2B%2BVogue%2BIndia%2BFebruary%2B2011%2529.jpg – hair and hand http://headstylelove.com/id/accessories/page/2/ - stud headband http://headstylelove.com/id/headdresses/page/2/ - scraped back http://blushless.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/c02e58e554db447cae306ef91d96bd3f_justinsmith11.jpg - ginger http://www.imagebam.com/image/3b08ef121083345- plain make up http://lh4.ggpht.com/_ueIq0KJKKQQ/S6TM1p-JSaI/AAAAAAAAL-0/I-Zc8RRbKa0/100331Mikael JanssonVogue4.jpg - headress http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rAAARB1eLjA/TYYTP0LQ4yI/AAAAAAAAOr8/QaSjrnygxQs/s1600/ Guinevere%2BVan%2BSeenus%2Bby%2BJosh%2BOlins%2B%2528Full%2BMetal%2BGlamour%2B%2BVogue%2BChina%2BApril%2B2011%2529.jpg- dark makeup http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_n1s5istIH_I/SfkQR77e5zI/AAAAAAAAEr0/XkPo91ZZZpM/s1600/R AFW%2B2009%2B10%2BKonstantina%2BMittas%2BBackstage%2BDwkI-EnTAzxl.jpg.jpeg – gold eye make up
QUADRATURA ARMADURA
http://couturecarrieloves.blogspot.com/2011/02/haute-headdresses.html - girls in a line http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-suudTcdpwgk/TW__-na6rBI/AAAAAAAAOSs/gUtyQRzUIRE/s1600/Ka rolina%2BKurkova%2Bby%2BChadwick%2BTyler%2B%2528Grey%2BSS%2B2011%2529.jpg – beautiful face http://www.flickr.com/photos/maikochild/5330902537/in/photostream/ - kimono children- maiko child http://www.imagebam.com/image/09d73c124083578- whites and floral http://www.officetwelve.com/wp-content/uploads/Meritalia.jpg - sofa http://trendland.net/2011/02/24/mary-katrantzou-fw-2011/ - landscape mary Katramtzou http://trendland.net/2010/09/22/mary-katrantzou-spring-2011-ready-to-wear/ - Mary Katramtzou
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http://trendland.net/2011/01/13/karla-spetic-ss2011-collection/#more-55537 – karla sceptic landscape clothing http://secondcitystyle.typepad.com/.a/6a00d83451595d69e2013485173dd5970c-800wi stella m jacket http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5201/5339922079_c75b2b2057.jpg - kimono http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_f2McZRi9UNk/TQXeKVOUhpI/AAAAAAAAANs/iviSRDRryw4/s1600/ Karla+Spetic.jpg – double karla spectic http://www.imagebam.com/image/155d48123659999- prada colour http://trendland.net/2010/03/02/holly-fulton-aw-1011-london-fashion-week/ -Holly Fulton http://trendland.net/2010/09/22/mary-katrantzou-spring-2011-ready-to-wear/ - Mary Katramtzou http://www.imagebam.com/image/ad8ec5122681484- dress in intricate background http://www.gotextile.com/photo-p1b8534476861c17e76d5e3199eba7d4f/Silk-FabricTapis-XS01-G05-.jpg - silk http://www.curtainsmadesimple.co.uk/Images/RoomSets/Clarke-And-Clarke-Fabric/LinoSheers-Collection/Lino-Sheers-Fabric-Collection-4.jpg -sheer http://www.homespunfabrics.com/img/Canvas/Canvas10.5ozNatural.jpg -canvas
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http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/01362/diamonds_1362656c.jpg - jewels http://www.mus-his.city.osaka.jp/news/2005/wazatobi/img/item/kimono-press.jpg kimono http://illusion.scene360.com/wp-content/themes/sahara-10/submissions/maruyama_01. jpg - paint http://www.florentinedesigns.com/images/hessian.jpg - hessian http://www.muchbetteradventures.com/system/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/ imagemanager/files/Destination_guides/Derwentwater_nr_Keswick_C_Keira_Holt.JPG landscape http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/uimages/chicago/mimosa120308.jpg - yellow http://www.archithings.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/12/PANTONE-15-5519-TurquoiseColor-swatch.jpg - teal http://www.imagebam.com/image/81e5c5120959362 - hair colour pink http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_adQeQUql--k/S9euzhlLILI/AAAAAAAAAfM/WexUljX88LQ/s1600/1. jpg - pastel hair http://headstylelove.com/id/haute-couture/ - blond long http://headstylelove.com/id/hair/page/2/ poufie hair http://theindustriouslove.blogspot.com/2010/10/blog-post_18.html - pastel blue hair
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yR_vv43QURg/S2BBmDzPX2I/AAAAAAAABdk/WZ5_ge9OQhw/s1600-h/ trend9.jpg - derek lam make up http://www.imagebam.com/image/5b86ca121530987 - lips http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_yR_vv43QURg/S1-kWPoYugI/AAAAAAAABdU/zzLLuLnCPx4/s1600-h/ trend7.jpg - raffian make up http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_3XYC2C67r3w/TLx_KRJsRSI/AAAAAAAABdM/k3ZQtBqW-bU/s1600/ Valentino_CS10_122.jpg -make up pink http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_3XYC2C67r3w/TLx_Ld2fEcI/AAAAAAAABdU/jvNTu-t4G_4/s1600/ Valentino_CS10_207.jpg - make up orange
http://trendland.net/2011/02/07/minimarket-accessory-lookbook-by-carlkleiner/#more-56576 – minimarket shoe http://www.fashionisingpictures.net/photoshoots/100318MikaelJanssonVogue3.jpg make up pastels http://www.imagebam.com/image/9b0d78123659766- colours http://www.imagebam.com/image/350308120959425 - hair colours http://trendland.net/category/fashion-style/fashion-runway-show/page/12/ - clothes on rail http://www.swide.com/binaries/content/gallery/2009/bellezza/pastel_hair/PastelHair /6a01053694df79970b012875ba97f6970c-450wi.jpg - colourful
STRUCTURE/ REGIME
http://www.imagebam.com/image/007f1f122427857 - stripe lighting http://www.imagebam.com/image/e35ed7124114664 - lines leather dress http://trendland.net/2010/11/25/gabriella-marina-gonzalez-the-cyclopsapprentice/#more-54087 – LEATHER HEAVY HARNESS/ HELMETS http://www.imagebam.com/image/9fd5d4122718857- harness sexy http://headstylelove.com/id/hair/page/2/ - hair colour http://www.designbuild-network.com/projects/light-house/images/3-light-house-cinema.jpg - cinema chairs http://www.patternity.co.uk/resource/1123/attachment/gw_1_7_geojosh_joshgoot_fash_ geo_col/ - colourful dresses backstage-http://trendland.net/2010/04/08/manish-arora-exclusive-backstagehotography/manish_arora_backstage_exclu_8/ - color segregated + hair and make up
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http://trendland.net/2010/11/25/gabriella-marina-gonzalez-the-cyclopsapprentice/#more-54087 – LEATHER HEAVY HARNESS/ HELMET http://www.imagebam.com/image/1d1898123924909- harness http://www.imagebam.com/image/df0a36124228176- knitted white lines http://www.patternity.co.uk/resource/1123/attachment/gw_1_7_geojosh_joshgoot_fash_ geo_col/ - colourful dresses http://avarady.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/picture-53.png?w=412&h=305 – BELENCIAGA BLOCKS http://shop.nicholedecarle.com/products-page?category=5 – underwear http://trendland.net/2010/10/16/bordelle-ss-2011/#more-52594 – UNDERWEAR http://trendland.net/2010/10/26/julia-krantz-shell-collection/#more-53021 - JULIA KRANTZ SHELL COLLECTION http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Lifeandhealth/Pix/pictures/2009/3/13/1236948385645/Homes-wishlist-Lace-Homes-005.jpg - lace http://88.198.60.17/images/100-beautiful-textures/leather5.jpg - leather http://www.jelldragon.com/images/il_leather_thong.jpg -leather thong
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http://www.crystal-clover.co.uk/images/ProductImages/Fabrics/EH%20special/web%20 fine%20fishnet.jpg -fish net http://www.bubblyfunk.co.uk/images/CHF%20Stamps%20-%20Backgrounder%20-%20Cheesecloth.jpg – cheesecloth http://www.patternity.co.uk/search/fabric - PVC http://the-daily-buzz.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/PANTONE-18-2120_Honeysuckle. jpg - pink http://www.case-scenario.com/typo3temp/pics/629f0600b0.jpg -black http://anakhaircolorcorner.blogspot.com/2010/05/avant-art.html - hair http://headstylelove.com/id/haute-couture/ - black and white bowl cut http://www.imagebam.com/image/2a00f8124228190- boob http://www.imagebam.com/image/d9d8c1121962193 - very bright hair http://confetti-me.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/2pq5kwm.jpg - plait http://www.ellecanada.com/img/photos/biz/resized_images/elleca/00016/608x304_photo16827.jpg - make up line http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ueIq0KJKKQQ/S6TMsOStLeI/AAAAAAAAL-k/Zlica05k6Gw/100350Mikael JanssonVogue9.jpg - head turben backstage-http://trendland.net/2010/04/08/manish-arora-exclusive-backstagehotography/manish_arora_backstage_exclu_8/ - color segregated + hair and make up
http://api.ning.com/files/mOc5qyPlV3CXzdTHKhYX7Zb18jV1VefUd3jssmqDvaljjkFdixkt1dYIvZO5oZxWYO8cz6pGXSXXdexWhP6prWr6zDFhkOy*/HauteCouleurbyBenHassettVogueGermanyMarch20113.jpg - bold yellow eye
http://www.muchbetteradventures.com/system/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/ imagemanager/files/Destination_guides/Derwentwater_nr_Keswick_C_Keira_Holt.JPG landscape
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