All Aboard Your moving view of the world
Summer / Autumn 2015
DEPARTURES
Stunning
Scandinavia Rugged scenery, historic cities and incredible culture; explore the highlights of Scandinavia by rail.
PARIS’ PICASSO MUSEUM REOPENS AFTER A 5 YEAR REFURBISHMENT TOP INSIDER TIPS FROM A LUXURY MADRID HOTEL’S CONCIERGE TOP 5 EUROPEAN SCENIC TRACKS LESS TRAVELLED EXPLORING SWITZERLAND BY TRAIN HABSBURG REDUX: VIENNA TO SARAJEVO
Romance
rides the rails
Honeymoons by train Let romance ride the rails and make your break as unique as you, with a tailor made honeymoon with Railbookers. Indulge on one of the world’s most iconic private train journeys, or simply unwind and take the scenic route to a destination you’ve always dreamed of visiting. Rail travel is comfortable, relaxing and romantic; there’s no better way to travel than with wonderful scenery passing you’re window as you travel through some of the world’s most beautiful landscapes. A luxurious private cabin on the inimitable Eastern & Oriental Express can serve as your passport to the exotic and the sophisticated, where cocktails
and fine dining meet convivial company and spectacular views as you travel from Thailand through Malaysia to Singapore. Snake down the spine of Italy and enjoy the azure seas, rocky coastline and pretty pantone houses of the stunning Cinque Terre. Or enjoy an authentic Andalucian honeymoon complete with tempting tapas, flamenco dancing O N E Y M O s and historical sightseeing H O N lp A e ia th tours. The choices are Venice v holiday endless! gniature okers’ si ide Railbo goon-s don to la from Lon urich. aZ Venice vi 5 n ig h ts
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Your route calls at... Welcome aboard...
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ssue 3 of All Aboard magazine marks my first issue as the new editor, and I’m so excited to share all of the helpful information, inspiring ideas and experts’ guidance that we have in store for you all! We have exciting travelogues written by journalists who travelled with us over 2014, including David Aaronovitch’s take on his journey from Vienna to Sarajevo. Switzerland guru Anthony Lambert shares his tips for making the most of your Swiss Pass and Railbookers’ Travel Experience Director, Andy, gives us some advice for making our own journeys by rail! We’ve also picked out 5 of the best train journeys that are ‘off the beaten track’, and have selected some of our favourite Italian trips to help you get planning your summer holiday of a lifetime for 2015! Happy reading and, of course, if you have any comments or questions please do get in touch at allaboard@railbookers.com
Sarah
Sarah Kaye Turner EDITOR
All Aboard
Summer / Autumn 2015
Design & Artwork by Matthew Murphy
1st stop | P4 Palaces & Castles
Discover Europe’s amazing heritage through its palaces and chateaux.
2nd stop | P5 Top Tips for the Railway Traveller
3rd stop | P6 Switzerland
Anthony Lambert takes to the rails with a Swiss twist.
Insider tips and tricks for your next journey by rail by a Railbookers director.
7th stop | P12 Agatha Christie
Travel Consultant Liz indulges aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express .
8th stop | P13 Scandinavia
6th stop | P11 Top 5 Scenic Tracks Less Travelled
Where to go ‘off the beaten track’ for your next rail journey.
4th stop | P8 Summer Holidays
Italian sunshine perfect for your 2015 summer break.
5th stop | P10 Hospes Madrid Concierge Guide One of Madrid’s most prestigious hotels gives us the inside track.
10th stop | P20 Charleville-Mézières
A Fjord focus on the incredible rail journeys of Norway, Denmark and Sweden.
Journalist Melonie Clarke discovers France’s Champagne-Ardenne region.
9th stop | P18 Picasso Museum
The Hôtel Salé reopens it’s Picasso exhibition after a 5 year renovation.
14th stop | P26 My Favourite Rail Journey
13th stop | P25 Ask the Expert
Our Global Travel Centre Manager answers your questions.
Senior Travel Consultant Gareth takes the scenic route in the USA.
Next Issue
11th stop | P22 Hapsburg Redux
David Aaronovitch travels from Vienna to Sarajevo by train.
12th stop | P24 Canada Coast to Coast
Take the journey of a lifetime across the world’s second largest country.
Destination | Castles and Palaces of Europe
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&Palaces Europe of
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urope is a continent with an unparalleled history. Centuries of royalty and aristocracy have gifted us with a cultural and royal heritage that inevitably has led to some of the most incredible architecture in the world, all within easy reach. A trip to one of Europe’s palaces or castles allows us to glimpse into the majesty and treasures of the continent! For a lesson in quintessential French elegance, where else is there to head but the Palace of Versailles? Situated on the outskirts of Paris, making it an easy day trip from the French Capital, the Palace was transformed from hunting lodge to grand chateaux in 1682 when Louis XIV moved from Paris. Visitors can immerse themselves in the history and grandeur of a bygone era as they move from the famous Hall of Mirrors to the King’s Bedchamber to the breathtaking grounds and incredible musical fountain shows. Those seeking to feel part of a real life fairytale, complete with the traditions of knighthoods, castles, old legends and dark forests, need travel no further than Germany. Here, esteemed castles perch venerably on hilltops – the high vantage points of which would have once protected them from the marauding hoards of the day. Neuschwanstein Castle, buried deep in southwest Bavaria but an easy trip from Munich, is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the whole of Europe, famous for its wonderfully romantic facade and the fact that it served as the inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle.
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Whilst fairytales will never cease to enchant, the exotic mystique and Moorish splendour of Granada’s Alhambra Palace has long been a magnet for travellers seeking to admire Andalusia’s favourite architectural melting pot, where Islamic style meets 16th Century Christian intervention and the result is a wonderful “pearl set in emeralds”, where reflecting pools, column arcades and majestic fountains embroider the vast and stunning grounds. No matter which European city you visit or which countryside you traverse, history is on view for all to see, to visit and to absorb!
Images 01 Chateau de Versailles, France 02 Neuschwanstein Castle, Bavaria, Germany
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Destination | Top Tips for The Railway Traveller
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Remember, if you’re travelling through France or Italy on a train that doesn’t have reserved seating, you will need to validate your ticket before you get on the train! You’ll find machines to do this at the end of the platforms.
Don’t throw your tickets away until you get back from your trip! Many tickets will cover more than one journey and sometimes more than one day’s travel, so although you might have multiple seat reservations, you’ll need to keep hold of the physical ticket as well for these to be valid.
It might sound simple, but remember that your stop might not be the final destination of the train! For example, trains from Brussels to Bruges will terminate at Knokke or Ostend rather than in Bruges itself. Make sure you always check the train number and calling points to help with this.
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Keep in mind the length of daylight as there is no point in travelling on a scenic rail line in the dark. Time the most scenic elements of your journeys with the sunlight to make sure you don’t miss out on anything spectacular.
A couple of personal security tips: if hanging your jacket up, make sure it is in front of you – the same goes for storing bags! Always make sure you have a clear view of your possessions.
Andy, Railbookers’ Travel Experience Director and an avid train enthusiast, shares some of his top rail travel tips!
Railbookers
Always travel with a bottle of water, or more for a longer journey. A trip to a supermarket is great too, so you can create a feast of a train picnic. Even if there is a scheduled buffet car – my mantra is it’s always better to be safe than sorry!
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Destination | Exploring Switzerland by Train
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Exploring S W I T Z E R L Aby Ntrain D Anthony Lambert takes to the tracks through the stunning landscapes of Switzerland, Swiss Pass in hand! 6
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magine a country where the trains are frequent, comfortable and clean, and commuters stare in disbelief at their watches if a train is more than a minute or two late. Where modern buses connect seamlessly with trains and with cablecars, funiculars and ships. Where information systems are a model of good practice, and almost every station has discreet yellow signs suggesting walking routes. Where all public transport works so well that many of the inhabitants have a pass that gives them unlimited use of almost the whole system, and they don’t even bother to own a car. The country of course is Switzerland, so the world’s finest public transport system passes through some of the world’s most beautiful mountain landscapes. Even Zürich commuters have scenic journeys to work, and many of the world’s greatest railway journeys are to be found in Switzerland. Some are household names, like the Glacier Express between Zermatt and St Moritz, which is the country’s flagship tourist train, but there are many other fantastic journeys. You can travel over the
Railbookers
Destination | Exploring Switzerland by Train highest rail crossing of the Alps in an open carriage on the Bernina Express between Chur and Tirano – kids and photographers love the experience. Combine lunch on a Belle Epoque paddlesteamer with panoramic-carriage views of the Gotthard Pass on the Wilhelm Tell Express; or marvel at the contrast between the Mediterranean atmosphere of Lake Como and the rugged beauty of the Maloja Pass as you allow a PostBus driver to worry about the hairpin bends on the Palm Express route between Lugano and St Moritz. For many first-time visitors, a trip to Europe’s highest railway station at Jungfraujoch is a must. After pausing to admire views from picture windows in
panoramic restaurant on the Schilthorn. Step back in time on Lake Brienz, travelling by a steam-powered Belle Epoque paddlesteamer and alighting at a landing stage for a wooden-bodied funicular of 1879 to one of the most romantically situated hotels in Europe, opened in the same year beside the Giessbach Falls. Next day you could travel up Mount Rothorn,
and biking, as well as the Säntis mountain. For a wealth of
beautiful gardens, walks across mountain slopes 03 of chestnut trees and for Italian cuisine, visit the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino and its two magnificent lakes.
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the wall of the Eiger, passengers alight in a cave-like station at 3,454 metres and ascend by lifts to breathtaking views down the Aletsch Glacier. At 23km, this is the longest glacier in the Alps. This is only one of the great journeys in the Bernese Oberland; others take you to Mürren, for exceptional views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, and on to the revolving
propelled by steam, or visit the 02 spectacular open-air museum at Ballenberg. In 66 hectares of attractive countryside, the museum has saved more than 100 vernacular buildings from all over Switzerland, re-erected them in an appropriate setting and installed period furnishings. Every day there are timetabled demonstrations of numerous skills: crochet work, bobbin-lace making, silk ribbon weaving, spinning, breadmaking, cheese, chocolate and cider production, barrel-making, shinglemaking, lime burning and many others. The Appenzell in north-east Switzerland is one of the country’s most neglected areas, yet it has enchanting villages, wonderful walking
Wherever you choose to go, you’ll be astonished by the quality of your experience and the beauty of the landscapes. Anthony Lambert is an expert on travel in Switzerland and is an established journalist who has written for The Independent, The Daily Telegraph and The Sunday Times amongst other publications.
Images 01 Bernina Express 02 Engelberg Village, Switzerland 03 Landwasserviadukt
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Destination | Summer Holidays
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here will your summer take you? There’s nowhere better than the Bel Paese of Italy! Why not lose your cares in the Italian Riviera, soak up the sun from the sandy beaches of Capri or take a boat out along the banks of Lake Maggiore. Italy in the summer is the perfect place to lose yourself in ‘la dolce vita’. Think of deep cerulean seas, warm summer nights spent in outdoor ristorantes, ice cold gelato and the sun beaming down on worldfamous historical monuments that will transport you to a different era. It’s simple – travel to Italy this summer, and get there by rail!
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Verona and Venice | 4 nights from $1,180 pp Sample some of the best of Italy’s celebrated history, architecture and cuisine! Discover the romantic and dramatic home of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet in fair Verona, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where ancient Roman architecture meets a budding cosmopolitan culture. Then, take the train to the winding backstreets and azure lagoon of the canal-side sanctuary of Venice.
Railbookers
Destination | Summer Holidays
Switzerland to Lake Como | 6 nights from $1,275 pp Combine breathtaking mountainous scenery with a relaxing break to sparkling Lake Como on this holiday from Switzerland to Italy. Wander through Zurich’s historical old town before boarding the train journey of a lifetime along the Gotthard Pass to stunning Lake Como, ringed with mountains. Look out for George Clooney!
Essential Italy | 6 nights from $1,030 pp Visit three of Italy’s essential gems! Spend your summer relaxing next to Venice’s glistening lagoons, sipping on an Aperol-spritz in a tiny café hidden along a cobbled backstreet and looking out over the perfect slants and domes of the Venetian rooftops from the top of the bell tower of St. Mark. Move on to Florence for breathtaking artwork, street performers by the Uffizi and lazy strolls around the stunning Boboli Gardens. Take the train to Rome and discover the timeless wonders and fascinating past of the ‘Eternal City’ - all in 6 days!
Switzerland to the Cinque Terre & Italian Riviera | 6 nights from $1,415 pp Catch the train over the stunning Swiss Alps from Zurich to the pretty pantone houses, the rugged cliff top villages and the dazzling azure seas of the Italian Riviera! Amble along the Levanto seafront, visit the beautiful Mediterranean port of Portofino , watch the world go by from the hillside castle in Riomaggiore or indulge in authentic cuisine at a harbour side restaurant!
Rome, Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast | 6 nights from $1,650 pp Spend your summer soaking up the history, culture and cuisine of the Italian capital, and the sunshine, sea and sand of the Amalfi Coast! Wonder at the marvels of Ancient Rome and the wonderful art and architecture of Vatican City before catching the train to the relaxing city of Sorrento, gateway to the Amalfi Coast. You’ll also be treated to a historical day trip to Pompeii and Herculaneum and a night in Naples – the birthplace of pizza!
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Destination | Hospes Hotel in Madrid
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Images 01 Entrance to Hospes Madrid 02 Deluxe room 03 Suite 04 Lobby 05 Cibeles Square, Madrid 03 01
We’ve had a chat with the concierge team at the luxury Hospes Hotel in Madrid, and asked them to share their tips on how to make the most of the city! Here’s what they recommend…
Q: What attractions would you recommend during a holiday to Madrid?
A: We’d recommend visiting Puerta de Alcalá,
Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol, as well as the Palacio Real and Almudena Cathedral. If you are in town on Sunday, don’t miss a trip to the “El Rasto” flea market, and the Cibeles & Neptune fountains are wonderful (especially on football nights as they are Real Madrid and Atletico de Madrid football teams’ celebration points!)
Q: Where is the best place to find authentic Spanish tapas in Madrid?
A: Head to La Latina – the whole area is
crowded with great tapas bars! Plaza Mayor is also well known for its options.
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Q: How about getting around? Is there a
special ticket for public transport that you’d recommend?
A: We would always say it is a good option to
take a touristic pass from one of the metro machines in the stations. You can also go to any kiosk for one of these. They have one day, two day and weekly passes available.
Q: What annual events in Madrid should not be missed?
A: The city really comes to life during Semana
Santa (holy week during Easter) where there are processions on the streets. There is also a great atmosphere around the time of the Madrid Marathon (which falls on April 26th 2015) and the amazing Christmas lights in the city centre in December are not to be missed!
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Q: Are there any hidden gems in the city you can tell us about?
A: A spot we always recommend is the Templo de Debod. It is an ancient Egyptian temple that was a gift to our king Juan Carlos and it is not very well known. It is the best place to take the most brilliant pictures of Madrid! Information supplied by the Head Concierge at the Hospes Hotel in Madrid.
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Destination | Top 5 European Scenic Tracks Less Travelled
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Tra c ks L e ss Trave l le d Already travelled on the Glacier Express, along the West Highland Line and through the Rhine Valley? Here are 5 hidden gems to experience!
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Belgrade to Bar,
Serbia to Montenegro
The venerable mountains, rolling hills, deep canyons, towering viaducts, countless tunnels and breathtaking riverside vistas make this underrated Eastern European journey a must-do for the adventurous traveller!
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Porto to Pocinho, Portugal
Pass through pretty towns, around imposing cliffs and hug the curves of the river along the Linha do Duoro (Duoro line), known to insiders as Portugal’s most beautiful train journey.
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Munich to Innsbruck, Germany to Austria
Avoid the high speed intercity train that skirts around the Alps and take the slower, regional rail over the top and through the mountain resort of Garmisch Partenkirchen for unparalleled Alpine vistas.
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Nice to Digne-les-Bains, France
This private, 1 metre gauge railway line captures 3 hours of pure, photogenic bliss! Glide through mountain valleys and over beautiful viaducts from the French Riviera through Provence.
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Messina to Catania, Sicily
Get an eyeful of the spectacular Ionian coast on your next summer holiday! Witness the joy of your train being loaded onto a ferry and delight in the mesmerising views of the rugged coastline and the azure sea from your seat.
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I have a confession .
and Bob were celebrating a birthday and were enthusiastic for all the good things- life, love, I am a massive Agatha Christie fan. Always have travel, history, food and fun. Of course, I had to been, always will be. It is an affliction that has socialise in the Bar Car after dinner! The tinkling me scouring many second-hand book shops to of the piano, the gorgeous dresses, the sharp find that perfect edition, or even trying to work tuxedos and the flowing conversation all fused to out which of my friends would be the first to get make an excellent evening, worthy of Poirot. the chop if, by chance, we enjoyed a weekend There is nothing quite like garden party in a Country Manor watching gorgeous scenery House. To me Agatha Christie float past while you read or symbolises everything from a listen to music or write a letter lost time and place that I didn’t Trains are (yes a letter not an email) or really get to experience growing wonderful…. To whatever you like on the Orient up in Australia- jaunts to the Express. It is very relaxing. travel by train is South of France, high tea in the gardens, gorgeous fashion, eccentric characters and luxurious trains rattling through romantic landscapes.
to see nature and human beings, towns and churches and rivers, in fact, to see life
When you think about the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, you’re aware of the luxury, the beauty, the elegance and the history, but what no one tells you about is the community that is born. Walking down the carriage, it was quite normal to stop and chat to a complete stranger, because everyone realises that you are sharing something pretty special. The only way a murder could happen on this train is if everyone knew each other previously and organised the whole thing because one passenger was a bit of a shady character (oops spoilers!). No shady characters on my Orient Express, just a wide selection of genuinely interesting and lovely people.
As we slid into Victoria Station the next day, it was like slipping back into reality. Sigh. Can’t I have lobster for lunch and a man waiting outside my bedroom with food and champagne every day? Couldn’t I just join Poirot and Miss Marple with their lives rich in intrigue and elegance? I think I will start dressing for dinner from now on, just because I can. In order to end this appropriately, I think I need to quote the great woman herself: “Trains are wonderful…. To travel by train is to see nature and human beings, towns and churches and rivers, in fact, to see life.” Elizabeth Ross-Ward, Travel Consultant at Railbookers.
We shared our table at dinner with the most delightful couple from North Carolina. Florence
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Destination | Scandinavia
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Spectacular
S CA N D I N AV I A S
candinavia: a land of breathtaking fjords, sparkling winter wonderlands, Vikings, ABBA, historical cities, incredible midnight suns and awe-inspiring Northern lights! Nestled in the Northern reaches of Europe, Sweden, Norway and Denmark are melting pots of beauty, culture, heritage and excitement just waiting to be discovered. Of course, there’s no doubt that the impressive rail network is another reason to add the region to your bucket list, with many people seeing the wonderful scenic journeys as the reasons for their visits, rather than just as a way to get from A to B. The highlights of rail travel in Scandinavia are plenty, but here at Railbookers we have a few favourites to share.
Norway in a Nutshell
There’s no better way to discover the amazing Fjords of Norway than the famous tour that guides you through the breathtaking countryside past a wash of colour that will dazzle at any time of year. Highlights include: The Flam Railway You’ll no doubt have already heard about the Flam Railway. It’s widely considered one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world, with verdant panoramas of the magnificent Norwegian scenery. Over 80% of the journey climbs up on a gradient of 5.5%, making it one of the steepest journeys in the world as well. From the Sognefjord in Flam, you’ll ascend 863 metres to the top of Myrdal Mountain, zipping between fjord and peak, passing gushing waterfalls, mountain farms and deep ravines. Pass through tunnels and wonder in awe at the Aurlandsfjord, a branch of Norway’s longest fjord. It only takes an hour, so you will need to keep your eyes firmly fixed on the window to make the most it! It wasn’t named ‘best train journey in the world’ by Lonely Planet in 2014 for nothing! 01
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Destination | Scandinavia
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Destination | Scandinavia
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The Bergen Railway Along the same route, there’s another winner of the ‘World’s most beautiful train journeys’ award, the Bergen Railway. It runs to and from Oslo and offers unbeatable views of the Norwegian fjords. All part of the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ experience, the train travels over northern Europe’s largest mountain plateau, treating those who ride it to spectacular and varied landscapes. Clamber up to an altitude of 1222 meters at Finse and watch the blue ice of the Hardangerjøkulen glacier glittering for all to see. Continue on with ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ and take a cruise out at Gudvangen to get incredible views of Norway’s deepest and longest fjord – Sognefjord - in its entirety, sailing past mountain farms, seals sunbathing on rocks and chocolate box villages along the flawless landscapes. ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ really is a joy to behold. You can do the whole trip in a day if you are pressed for time and would also like to squeeze in some of the bigger Scandinavian cities whilst on your trip, but stays en route are actively encouraged to make the most of this once in a lifetime experience! Copenhagen to Gothenburg As far as intercity travel goes, you couldn’t ask for a much more scenic route. The trip travels from Hans Christian Andersen’s Copenhagen –a fairytale city where the ancient and the modern coexist harmoniously – to Gothenburg, Sweden’s second city and a harbour-side hub showcasing a laidback atmosphere, pretty canals and historical monuments in abundance. The double-track railway line over the Øresund Bridge is both functional and fascinating, traversing the Øresund strait and providing tantalising views of the North Sea on either side. To whiz across it really does feel
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as though you’re flying over the sea and is a wonderful experience. The marvellous feat of engineering is doubtlessly a pull for those exploring Scandinavia, as are the pretty Danish and Swedish villages you travel through en route.
Sleep on a bed made from ‘snice’ (that’s a snow and ice mixture) in the nearby Jukkasjärvi ICE hotel Images 01 Trolltunga, Troll’s tongue rock above lake Ringedalsvatnet, Norway 02 Centrefold: Reine village, Norway 03 Northern lights at Ersfjordbotn, Tromsø, Norway 04 Geiranger Fjord, Norway 05 Replica Norway Viking boat 06 Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi, Kiruna, north of Sweden 07 Flam, Railroad Track, Train near Sognefjord, Norway 08 Little Mermaid, Copenhagen
Arctic Circle Train As you head north through Scandinavia, the glimpses of blanket white snows increase. Head to Kiruna for the chance to experience the midnight sun, polar nights and the cascading trails of the Northern Lights. Sleep on a bed made from ‘snice’ (that’s a snow and ice mixture) in the nearby Jukkasjärvi ICE hotel. The scenery from your window will change from tranquil tundra to majestic mountains, and you can head as far as Narvik, through lakes and forests en route to the wonderful Norwegian coast. R A IL B
OOKER S RECO Norway MMEN DS in a Nu tshell Take in
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11th stop
Myst ical
INDIA
Save up to $250 per couple on a fabulous Indian Tour! Mystical, spiritual, chaotic... India overflows with contradictions and rich traditions. This tour takes in the contrasting Old & New of Delhi, the iconic Taj Mahal, which you will stay near for 2 nights, and Jaipur to experience an elephant ride and a jeep tour around the magnificent Amber Fort, all from the comfort of your stunning Oberoi Hotels.
6 April 2015 – 28 September 2015 | Weekly Departures | Prices from $2,609 pp Stay 2 nights in Delhi, before travelling on to Agra and Jaipur for 2 nights each and then travelling back for an additional night in Delhi. Based on two people sharing. Railbookers standard terms and conditions apply.
To speak to an experienced consultant please call or visit our website.
1300 938 534
www.railbookers.com.au
Prices correct at time of publication. Prices are subject to availability, based on two people sharing a twin / double room. Discount cannot be combined with any other offer. Terms and conditions apply. See www.railbookers.com.au
Holidays inspired by you
Destination | Picasso Museum
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Paris’ wonderful Picasso Museum reopens after an astonishing 5 year renovation project! 01
Images 01 Hôtel Salé Picasso Exterior 02 Hôtel Salé Picasso Exterior
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n October 25th 2014 the Hôtel Salé, a beautiful mansion in the heart of Paris’ historic Marais district, flung open its doors once again. Behind the ornate exterior are housed a plethora of studies, sculptures and masterpieces by the great cubist artist Pablo Picasso.
On its reopening, the French president, François Hollande, described the museum as one of the “most beautiful” and “most moving” museums in the world. The 52 million euro investment has nearly tripled the museum’s exhibition space, which now spans 5 floors and is home to 5,000 works of art – both originals by Picasso himself and works from the artist’s personal collection, including famous paintings by Cezanne, Renoir and Matisse. Fans of the artist have been flocking from across the globe to marvel at some of the most famous of Picasso’s works, but also at the huge variety of art on display. The collages, assemblages, pottery and sculpture of the museum is thrust into prominence with Museum Director Laurent Lebon calling the variety of work “endlessly provocative”. Iberian and African art is also on display,
giving an exciting insight into the ideas that so strongly influenced Picasso’s, and giving a whole and rounded insight into Picasso that immerses the visitor in their experience. The renovation was a long time coming. What was meant to take two years eventually took five, so of course you wouldn’t be blamed for expecting something tremendous and different. Now, as you wander the rooms of the Hôtel Salé, you get more of a sense of Picasso as an entity, as an inspiration and as an artist. As you move from floor to floor, Picasso will evolve before you, a lack of explanatory text next to each work forces you to engage directly with each work, and draw your own meaning from it. Of course, there is never a bad time to go to Paris. But a visit to the long awaited, highly anticipated museum is a fantastic excuse to head under the channel, whether it’s for the first time or the fiftieth!
S END OMM C E tar uros RS R OKE the E to the O h t B i s w u star RAIL Pari E on to break by d n o 5 pp y L it c s t $42 h . M ig l n a O 3 pit FR h ca c Fren
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GoldLeaf Service
SilverLeaf Service
Rocky Mountaineer offers over 45 holiday packages and five unique rail routes, rich in history and natural wonders, through the Pacific Northwest and Alberta. This world-renowned, luxurious train travels by daylight through the wild beauty of Canada’s West and is considered by many as the only way to experience the majestic Canadian Rockies. The entire train ride takes place during daylight hours to ensure guests enjoy every minute of the breathtaking scenery, which is guaranteed to inspire even the most discerning of travellers. Breathtaking views of the Canadian Rockies are complemented with
spectacular sights such as Hell’s Gate, the Spiral Tunnels and Mount Robson, the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. On all of Rocky Mountaineer’s rail routes, travellers experience exceptional guest service, for which the company is renowned. Since its inception in 1990, the company has grown to become the largest privately owned passenger rail service in North America and has welcomed more than one and a half million guests from around the world. Rocky Mountaineer has received numerous international awards and accolades for service excellence. In 2013, the company was honoured with its eighth World Travel Award as, “World’s Leading Travel Experience By Train” and has
been recognised by National Geographic as one of the “World’s Greatest Trips.”
Destination | Charleville-MÊzières
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Tickets, M oney, Passports,
? Puppets! The Ardennes offers plenty in the way of holiday entertainment, but puppet fans will be in their element, says Melonie Clarke 20
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Destination | Charleville-Mézières
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he world famous puppet festival held in legends, lets you explore the locations behind the Charleville- Mézières first came to being many myths and legends. The Rimbaud-Verlaine in 1948, when Jacques Félix founded Les route is a poetic pilgrimage to the landscapes Petits Comédiens de Chiffons (Little Rag associated with literary figures. The Forest, Lake Actors) as a way to boost local morale following and Abbey route will show you the monastic world the Second World War. of the Ardennes, whereas the fortified churches of Thiérache will enable you to The town now hosts the see the area’s rich architectural World Puppet Theatre heritage. To venture into the Festival, founded by Félix in heart of rural Ardennes, head There are six tourist 1961 who remained heavily for the Porcien Route. All routes routes around the involved until his death in are clearly marked by different Ardennes region, 2006. colours on tourist maps and on the region’s roads. each offering The 10-day biennial festival something special attracts amateur and Moving on from Charleville, professional puppeteers Sedan (20 minutes away) has from all over the world, plenty to offer. The region has with shows performed at quite a reputation when it comes 50 different venues. The 50,000 local inhabitants to making beer. The Château Fort brewery makes are joined by around 150,000 visitors – all there to their beer onsite, and you can enjoy a meal in enjoy street theatre, puppet stalls and exhibitions. the restaurant which houses the beer-making An all-year-round, puppet-themed attraction is equipment; so it would be rude not to try one of The Great Puppeteer’s Clock. Built into the facade their beers with your lunch or dinner! In addition, of the Institut International de la Marionnette, Au Roy de la Bière is the oldest bar in the small the mechanical clock performs part of the local town. Opened in 1943, regulars received their own 01 the Four Sons of Aymon, on the hour. legend, plaque which is secured to whichever part of the bar they frequent most. There are six tourist routes around the Ardennes Melonie Clarke is a journalist and blogger from the United region, each offering something special. The Kingdom. She currently writes for ‘The Lady’, amongst other Fortifications Route is perfect for history lovers publications. as it guides you through the region’s magnificent castles. The route of the Meuse and Semoy 02
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Images 01 A Musée de la Marionnette Charleville-Mézières 02 Institut International de la Marionnette, Charleville-Mézières 03 The Ardennes 04 World puppet theatre festival performance (Image copyright Patrick Argirakis)
The World Puppet Theatre Festival runs from 18 to 27 September 2015: www.festival-marionnette.com
Railbookers
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Destination | Vienna
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Habsburg Redu x
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he Ringstrasse in Vienna is a broad boulevard built as a showcase for the grandeur and glory of the Habsburg Empire. As you pass the redbrick palace of the Hansen Kempinski, via the Bourse, the Town Hall, the Parliament Building, the Hofburg, the magnificence of the house of Hapsburg that ruled here for four centuries lives on a hundred years after its demise. My first tram stop was the vast baroque grandeur of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. From high above the tables in the tearoom, bas-relief Habsburg emperors looked down on me as I sipped my mélange and readied myself for a struggle with the art. Museum and gallery admittance in Vienna is not cheap, but one result can be a surprising dearth of tourists and I had the room with the six miraculous Brueghels nearly to myself.
David Aaronovitch takes to the tracks on a journey of discovery from Vienna to Sarajevo.
The doomed Franz Ferdinand inhabited the Belvedere Palace, a white building set in landscaped grounds on a rise overlooking central Vienna. Inside, I viewed some of the best works of Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele, and — a highlight for me, the grey-green portraits by Richard Gerstl. These artists lived and worked in a Vienna containing Freud and the writers Stefan Zweig, Joseph Roth and Arthur Schnitzler – as well as Emperor Franz Josef I (emperor for 68 years) and his gloomy nephew, Franz Ferdinand.
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The sanguinary nature of the Archduke’s end is on display half a mile south of the Belvedere. There, in the enormous redbrick castle of the Military Museum is the car in which the doomed duo were sitting that morning in Sarajevo, and the blood-spattered tunic of the Archduke.
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Railbookers
Destination | Vienna
A few days later I took the train for Austria’s second city and Franz Ferdinand’s birthplace, the Styrian city of Graz. This journey, aboard the cleanest train I have ever sat on, took us on what is known as the Semmering railway through spectacular alpine scenery. Graz is a quiet and sedate city and well worth a couple of days. Once you get there, a tram journey takes you from the city centre for a 15-minute ride to Schloss Eggenberg, another baroque palace, set among lovely, wooded gardens and peacocks. There’s a decent small archaeology museum but best of all is the Alte Galerie, with a splendid display of medieval religious art and two more glorious Brueghels. From Graz I boarded the pleasant evening train to the Croatian capital of Zagreb, where I overnighted close to the station (as passengers on the Orient-Express used to) at the glorious 1920s Esplanade Hotel, half expecting to see Hercule Poirot in the lobby. Early the next morning I embarked on the altogether less glamorous 10-hour rail journey across Bosnia to Sarajevo. This train is old and has no food or drink on board and yet I would not have travelled any other way. The rivers were high with rain and dramatic, the landscape troubled. The characters on the train were interesting. The next day – a Wednesday — the sun shone, and I joined thousands of Sarajevans in promenading around their battered but fascinating city. Within 400 metres I drank coffee on a terrace beside the cemetery of the Ferhadija Mosque, discovered the square in front of the Sacred Heart Cathedral to be full of Catholic
Railbookers
03 bishops and their flock, and walked past a group of 30 elderly men watching as two others played chess with giant chessmen in the sunshine. The city in this mood is charming. On Obala Kulina Bana, the road running along the river, is the spot where Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie, more or less unprotected, were shot and killed by the young assassin Gavrilo Princip. A small museum on the corner shows photographs of that day a century ago. Princip’s gun and trousers are here and a slightly moth-eaten pair of mannequins are dressed up as the Archduke and his wife. As I watched, a girl in a hijab, part of a school party, sat on the dais next to Franz Ferdinand, and used her mobile phone to inspect her Facebook. At my journey’s end, I flew out from Sarajevo’s very decent airport, from where most of the flights seem to go to Istanbul in Turkey. History is full of ironies.
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David Aaronovitch is a British journalist, broadcaster, and author. He is a regular columnist for The Times, amongst other publications.
Images 01 Belvedere Palace, Vienna (close up) 02 Belvedere Palace, Vienna 03 Alps in National park Hohe Tauern, Salzburg, Austria 04 View of Heldenplatz and Museums 05 Hofburg Palace 06 The Wurstelprater amusement park or “Prater”
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Destination | Canada Coast to Coast
Ca nad a C o a st to
Coast
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Images 01 CN Tower, Toronto 02 The idyllic Moraine Lake in Banff National Park, Canadian Rockies 02
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anada delights and excites the traveller as there is so much to do and see. Like those that travelled to the Wild West, the Canadian Pioneers found a vast country to traverse, full of wildlife unseen on our shores, protective natives and fresh terrains. Here the seasons could be so extreme that in those days many would not make the journey from coast to coast. Those who completed their trip, or settled along the way, however, found a new way of life surrounded by nature and dazzling beauty. Life may have been hard but there were great rewards to be had in this new land. To see lasting evidence of this now, just look at the cities of Vancouver or Calgary, or the French influences in the Quebec Region. From the glaciers to the cities and from the mountains and sea, cultures clashed, wars were fought and in their wake a diverse culture grew. Canada offers something for everyone from the city lover to those that revel in the great outdoors. There are the Great Lakes and the Rockies, forests teaming with wildlife, vast prairies
and historical city centres full of modern day hustle and bustle, boutiques and bars, museums and markets. As you traverse this country experience the changes from province to province. British Columbia with its mountains, Alberta with its open spaces, Canada’s interior across Saskatchewan and Manitoba with the Canadian Shield. From there, look towards Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia which formed the original territories of Canada in 1867. Take the ultimate Canadian adventure by rail, traversing the world’s second largest country from the Pacific coast to the Atlantic coast. Spend 4 nights onboard the Canadian in a Sleeper Plus compartment with all meals included and 11 nights in hotel accommodation.
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Railbookers
Destination | Ask the Expert
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?
Ask the
Q: What does ‘tailor made’ really
Dylan Roberts, Melbourne
Martha Jones, Bairnsdale
A: It’s possible to book assistance at
A: With the exception of private
Q: What is the difference between
Q: There are so many scenic
Gill Thornberry, Sydney
George Clarke-Mandeville, Wollongong
A: There are quite a few major
A: There’s no doubt about it –
possible to organise assistance at train stations?
most major stations. You can do so at St. Pancras, who will radio ahead to your destination and make sure that you have assistance when you get off the Eurostar. It is also possible in most countries in Europe – France, Germany, Switzerland and Italy, for example, all have the facility to book assistance in advance so just let us know your requirements and we’ll do our best to help!
point-to-point tickets and rail passes in Europe?
Matthew
E x p er t
Foy
Your holiday questions answered by our Global Travel Centre Manager Send your questions for Matthew to allaboard @ railbookers.com
Railbookers
Q: I have trouble walking, is it
differences between single tickets and rail passes – and in fact it often turns out that passes aren’t as good value as they seem! Rail passes don’t include reservations, which all high speed trains require, so you’ll find yourself having to pay supplements. Passes also don’t cover couchette or cabin reservations on sleeper trains, the Eurostar from London to Paris or any trains within the UK. Railbookers get discounted point to point tickets that include all the applicable reservations. Plus, we can often book through fares covering more than one journey and making you further savings!
mean? How flexible are your itineraries?
trains, which run on specific dates, our holidays can be completely tailor made to suit you. You can choose when, where and for how long you want to go. You can decide what class you’d like to travel in, what kind of hotels you’d like to stay in and how much help you’d like in terms of transfers, sightseeing tours and other extras. If the train goes there, we can get you there!
trains in Switzerland! What do you recommend?
Switzerland is beautiful, and one of our most popular destinations at any time of year! Many of the normal, commuter journeys are full of beautiful scenery – but you can’t beat a trip aboard the Glacier or Bernina Express. Both have similar breathtaking scenery and panoramic carriages but they run different routes, so it depends where you want to go. The Glacier Express is a wonderful journey across Switzerland, or the Bernina Express is certainly the most beautiful way to reach Italy. On a clear day, you can’t beat a trip up the tracks to the peak of the Jungfrau Mountain to the top of Europe, and the highest train station on the continent!
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Destination | California Zephyr
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My favourite
Gareth Jones
Rai l J o urney
I
t’s easy to overlook the good old USA when thinking about scenic train journeys. Before you even look at a map and remember how huge and diverse the country actually is, it’s hard not to adhere to the mantra that America moves by car and air and that’s it. But it is by train that you can best enjoy the amazing scenery which makes up this great landmass.
The California Zephyr train has run from Chicago to San Francisco since 1949, and passes through 8 different states and takes roughly 60 hours in total. It’s amazing how quickly the time passes by whilst you are sat relaxing as you pass through the historical Midwest, over the great Missouri river, through the open fields of Nebraska then up into the mountains of Denver. From there the ooohs and ahhhs ring out throughout the train as it
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Ca l i fo r nia zephyr
The journey is interspersed with small stops in towns such as Glenwood Springs where Doc Holliday spent the final months of his life
makes its way over the Rockies and follows the beautiful Colorado river. The route of the rail line traces an area of the river which has no roads, and is only accessible by rail or kayak, with the walls of the Gore Canyon reaching over 1000 feet on each side. The journey is interspersed with small stops in towns such as Glenwood Springs where Doc Holliday spent the final months of his life, and De Beque where wild horses (some of which can often be seen from the train) were rounded up and sold in the days of the Wild West. All this and the journey is only just half way.
The next day we pass the Truckee River and the mineral rich landscape which sparked the rush west in the late 19th Century. At the peak of the Sierra Nevada mountains the views of Donner Lake are beautiful, and in the distance I could see huge clouds of smoke from the Californian forest fires scorching the earth. The train meanders down into California, to San Francisco, a city whose warm and laid back persona puts it high on the list of places to visit in the world. Unlike many other long journeys in the world, the California Zephyr is hard to beat in terms of diverse scenery and relaxed comfort. It might not be the Orient Express onboard, but the cabins are large enough, the burgers are good and the views are truly spectacular. Gareth Jones, Senior Travel Consultant at Railbookers.
Railbookers
Maharajas’ Express
India...... a country with history as old as time. A country where diverse
Maharajas’ Express Gems of India | 3 nights from $4,999 pp Jan 2015 – Mar 2015 | Oct 2015 – Mar 2016 Journey through India’s famous Golden Triangle on the luxury rail journey of a lifetime! Watch the sun rise behind the Taj Mahal in Agra, visit the UNESCO listed Agra Fort, spot tigers at Ranthambore National Park and tour the marvellous marble and red sandstone Amber Fort!
dynasties have ruled through centuries, leaving their mark on the landscape, language and culture of the nation. Experience a different India at every stop as you travel past royal palaces, incredible forts and untamed wildlife. A journey on the Maharajas’ Express is a journey that memories are made of!
Maharajas’ Express Indian Panorama | 7 nights from $7,699 pp Jan 2015 – Apr 2015 | Oct 2015 – Apr 2016 Spend 7 nights aboard the opulent Maharajas’ Express, enjoying the incredible sights and sounds of India with gourmet meals and sightseeing tours all included. Travel through Jaipur, Agra, Varanais and Lucknow, taking in an elephant polo match and embarking on a jungle safari en route!
Inclusive of all transfers, sightseeing tours and excursions as per the itinerary, accommodation in single / double / twin bedded cabins with en suite bathrooms on board the Maharajas’ Express; all meals, soft beverages, house brands of Indian wines, beer and spirits; porterage at stations and butler service on train; amateur still camera fee, all current taxes and entrance fees; onboard services of a tour director and medical personnel and an opportunity to meet Indian Royalty! Prices are subject to change, and route to amendment. Itineraries, destinations, venues and scheduled departures are subject to change without prior notice. Prices are per person and based on 2 people sharing. Supplements may apply for special dates such as Christmas and New Year.
To speak to an experienced consultant please call:
1300 938 534
Next Issue
Our Recent Awards British Travel Awards 2014 - Bronze Award
In All Aboard Issue 4...
Railbookers are thrilled to have won an award in the British Travel Awards for the third year running. 2014 saw us win the bronze award for ‘Best Medium Holiday Company by Train’.
Best of Europe’s Festivals by Train Around the World by Rail New Destinations: Croatia ...Plus lots more!
Feefo Highly Commended Merchant 2014 Feefo is an independent merchant review system that collates independent reviews of customers’ experiences. Railbookers are very proud to have received a 100% positive overall rating from our customers in 2014!
ecmod Direct Commerce Awards 2014 - Winner Now in their 16th year, these annual awards continue to recognise business excellence across multi-channel retailing. At this year’s ecmod Direct Commerce Awards, Railbookers won in the category of Best Business or Brand.
For more information please visit www.railbookers.com.au or call 1300 938 534 to speak with one of our experienced consultants