Birds of Nagaland - Bird Survey Summary 2010 by Ramki Sreenivasan

Birds of Nagaland Report of Survey Conducted January â&#x20AC;&#x201C; May 2010

Naga Wren Babbler

Bano Haralu & Bikram Grewal

Introduction

Preamble On the invitation of the Government of Nagaland to do a bird survey of the State of Nagaland, a team was constituted to study the avifauna of the state.

Objectives The main objectives of this survey were; a) To determine the status of birds in current day Nagaland b) To define areas where bird watching as tourism could be encouraged c) To suggest ways and means to stop hunting in the state.

Team A team was constituted to undertake this surveys as hereunder a. Ms Bano Haralu –Team Coordinator b. Bikram Grewal Team – Leader & Bird Expert c. Sumit K Sen Principal – Photographer and Website expert d. Ramki Sreenivasan – Principal Photographer e. Shasank Dalvi – Bird Expert f. Mohit Aggarwal – Tourism Expert The team undertook three visits to the state in the months of January, March and May of 2010

Districts visited Dimapur Kiphire Kohima Mokokchung Peren Wokha Zunheboto

Districts not visited Mon Phek Longleng Tuensang

Areas studied intensively Khonoma Dimapur and environs Kohima and Environs Benreu Dziileke forest Mt. Pauna Intanki National Park 2

Rangapahar Zoo Wokha Old Riphyim Doyang reservoir Aizuto Ghosu Bird Sanctuary Zunheboto Mokokchung Minkong Forest New Changtonya Mt. Saramati Fakim WLS Kiphire Pungro Village Thanamir village Chomi village Tuophema

Trips Three trips were undertaken 1st Trip 5th â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 12th January 2010 2nd Trip 27th March â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1st April 2010 3rd Trip 12th -22 May 2010 Detail reports of the trips are enclosed These can be viewed on http://www.kolkatabirds.com/hillbirdsofind/nagaland.htm

Conclusions In the areas where there is minimal Jhumming and the village community protects forests and habitats, birds were plentiful. The team saw over 250 species of birds including some that have not been seen for over fifty years. Atleast eight new birds were added to the checklist of the birds of Nagaland.

Concerns Hunting To claim that hunting and trapping of birds and mammals in Nagaland does not exist would be wrong. In our short visits we found enough proof of both, we met several hunters, and saw enough evidence of both guns and slingshots being used. A trip to the local food markets reveals that wild birds and animals are openly sold. We saw found several rare species of birds including forest and game-birds, being sold strung together in small bunches. Khalij Pheasants, laughingthrushes, Fairy Bluebirds, assorted bulbuls were all seen and photographed by us. Mammals included Leopard Cat, the highly endangered Brush-tailed porcupines, Orange-bellied and Hoary-bellied Squirrels, Large Indian Civets and Himalayan Palm Civets. Wildlife enforcement seemed to be non-existent and most people were unaware that hunting is totally prohibited by the laws of the land. On the more positive side, one source claimed that, in relative terms, the hunting numbers were low and that it did not constitute a very serious threat to the wildlife of the region. He went on to argue that the forests were fecund enough to replenish all that was hunted. Furthermore it is now claimed that traditional hunting skills were in decline and the cost of ammunition has gone up considerably.   We, however, felt that experiments like the Khonoma initiative might prove to be a better substitute, as it provides the villagers with an alternative source of income. The powerful church could also be used to spread the anti-hunting message. Jhum “Agrarian Nagaland Imports Food Grains” is the headline of a recent issue of one of Nagaland’s newspaper The contradicting headlines for a report covering the distribution of tractors and power tillers under the Chief Minister’s Corpus Fund to some progressive farmers also quoted Chief Minister Neiphiu Rio who we would like to imagine anxiously saying that the state “imports 72 % of its food grains although 80% of its population (1.5 million Census 2001) is engaged in agriculture”. The report triggered off images and scenes of hill upon hill stripped of green forest cover only to be replaced with the dirty rust and black ash of burnt earth, that we saw during the second birding trip in March to the central and northern areas of Nagaland, namely Wokha, Zunheboto and Mokokchung districts. 4

The stark images stuck all the more with us having just completed a bird trip in January to the Angami and Zeliang area where my teammates and we did not encounter such vast tracts of contiguous area under â&#x20AC;&#x153;jhumâ&#x20AC;? or the slash and burn practice of agriculture. Not surprisingly an eerie silence accompanied us throughout as we traveled the length and breadth of the state maneuvering, where there was no wilderness only bald hillsides where once a forest stood. Ever so rarely we would catch the fleeting sight of some birds even in these desperate environments but never of any wild creatures. This experience coupled with rampant hunting of wildlife and birds in most parts of the state only communicated the feeling that something is terribly out of balance. In the jhum system of cultivation, every year large tracts of cultivable land are literally slashed down and then burnt to convert biomass to ash and increase soil fertility. This system is sustainable with low population densities, but population growth has shortened the jhum cycle to unsustainable levels. This form of cultivation has been honed over thousands of years and was once well suited to the needs of subsistence farmers with multiple cropping of up to 60 foods in one field. After a couple of years the fields go into fallow and the farmer shifts to another field. Once believed to be the most suitable system of cultivation studies have revealed that when jhum cycles fall below 10 years sometimes even five years â&#x20AC;Śas opposed to the earlier cycle of 15 to 20 years, there is not enough time for nutrients to build up and yields are reduced and land degradation is a guarantee. As a result, farmers must cut down more and more primary forest for their food needs. Add to that the continuing business of timber in the absence of viable livelihoods and the forests and its produce are under a continuous battery of assault. Even as experts debate the pros and cons the practice of jhum has lately been facing some challenges. Those who live off the land are already adapting to the changes in the environment influenced by both external and internal factors. With more and more of the rural population migrating to semi urban areas for jobs and education there are fewer hands for the hard work on jhum fields rendering it less attractive, Moreover in districts such as Phek several villages have ceased to practice jhum. They have instead begun to grow non-traditional crops such as cabbages, potatoes, chillies and other vegetables.

But according to Mr. Kevichusa IAS (Retd), Former Commisioner&Secretary, Government of Nagaland it would be unwise to outrightly condemn jhum cultivation which supports the rich and varied bio diversity of the state. However at the same time he says it is equally important for the state government to uplift the income of rural farmers and introduce the farming community to cultivate non-traditional high value, low volume and long shelf produce, such as spices chilies, turmeric ginger, black pepper etc. In a state where 93% of all natural resources are individual or community owned there is need for bio diversity conservation in Nagaland for a healthy balance. Communities and village councils need to be encouraged to protect primary forest areas from jhumming or timber operations. Another emerging need is for the state to act on building up a gene bank for gene plasmas of the rich agro biodiversity maintained in the traditional jhum cultivation before they are wiped out. A comprehensive and holistic approach to the traditional practice of jhum can only ensure self-sufficiency in food for the people as well as the continuation of a diverse bio diversity of plants, birds, and animal in the state.

Suggestions Birding Circuit: After visiting several areas the following suggestions are made: a. Initially restrict promotion of birding circuit to Khonoma and Benreu area. b. For more ‘hard-core birders’ develop Mt Saramati and Fakim WLS Sanctuary circuit c. Train Bird Guides in this area as an alternate livelihood d. Develop home stays/tourist facilities in these areas e. Improve road and communication in these areas Hunting a. Educate the students on evils of hunting by means of posters/bird books b. Motivate the forest department to effectively enforce hunting ban c. Encourage village councils to create inviolate areas d. Use the good offices of the church to preach non hunting e. Get trainers from other state to train teachers and forest personnel on the art of birdwatching Tourism The team visited several tourist complexes, including Benreu, Wokha, Mokokchung, Zunheboto, Pungro, Kohima, Aizuto, Old Riphyim and Tuophema. The facilities in Kohima, Mokokchung and Tuophema were excellent, while the others were very basic and need to improve vastly if national and international tourists are to be encouraged. The complex at Aizuto was non functional. The conditionals of the roads were mixed, while some were passable or good, smaller roads were in impassable condition. Overall the team felt, given the rarity and excellence of the birds found in Nagaland, “Bird Tourism’ could be effectively promoted in certain parts of Nagaland and can be a source of alternate employment amongst the local populace. 6

Acknowledgements The team would like to thank the following people for help in producing this report

Mr. Neiphiu Rio, Hon. Chief Minister Nagaland Mr. T. R Zeliang, Minister Planning & Co-ordination, Nagaland Mr. Yitachu, Parliamentary Secretary Tourism, Nagaland Mr. Alemtemshi Jamir, Planning & Development Commissioner, Nagaland Mr.Toshi Aier, Addn. Chief Secretary to Chief Minister, Nagaland Mr.Abeio Kire, Commissioner & Secretary Forest and Special Secretary to Chief Minister, Nagaland Mr.Khekiye Sema, IAS (Retd.) Former Commissioner & Secretary Tourism Department, Nagaland Mr.R. Kevichusa, IAS (Retd.), Commissioner & Secretary, Government of Nagaland Mr.Thepfiilhouvi Angami, IFS (Retd.) Former Principal Secretary Forest, Nagaland Mr.Kiheto Zhimomi, Deputy Commissioner Zunheboto, Nagaland Mr.Yanpanthong Kikon, Director Tourism, Nagaland Mr. K.T Thomas, Deputy Director Tourism, Nagaland Mr. Kedizhapu Sakhrie Mr. Debisier Meru Mr. Vatsii Meru, ex MLA Mr. Likhumba Y Mr. Renzemeu Yimchunger Mr. Khrieketoulie Medom Mrs Lhusi Haralu

Birding in Nagaland: Part I The Land of the Smiling Warriors Text: Bikram Grewal Images: Ramki Sreenivasan, Sumit Sen & Bano Haralu 5January - 12January,2010

Blyth’s Tragopan ~ State bird of Nagaland

It had been about a year since Sumit Sen, Ramki Sreenivasan and I had done a major birding trip and we were itching to go back to northeast India, but to an area which was still little known. None of us had seriously birded south of the Brahmaputra River, in the celebrated South Assam Hills, so that area was naturally very tempting. As Pam Rasmussen wrote in her path-breaking book Birds of South Asia: The Ripley Guide “The South Assam Hills host numerous avian specialties, usually distinct different races from their Himalayan counterparts, and often shared with contagious parts of Myanmar. Even within the South Assam Hills there has been considerable avian diversification, particularly notable in some laughingthrushes”

The rolling hills of Nagaland 8

After several discussions over large beverages, followed by many emails and telephone calls, we settled on Nagaland, partly because it was little birded, but primarily because there were several species purported to be present in this small north-eastern state, which we had not seen before. Heading the list was the state bird - the enigmatic Blythâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s Tragopan, for which we had searched earlier, unsuccessfully, in Arunachal Pradesh. But there were several others rarities as well, like the Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Cachar Wedge-billed Babbler, not to mention the recently split Naga Wren Babbler. Once we had finalised our destination, I contacted my good friend Bano Harulu, herself a true-blooded Naga from the Zeliang tribe. Bano, a TV journalist was so enthused about our trip that she swung into immediate action, calling the Chief Minister Shri. Neiphiu Rio, who agreed straightaway to sponsor our trip, and she further dug out several long-lost relatives from the bureaucratic world, all of who promised logistical and other help. She even agreed to join us on certain sections of the trip, which helped us a great deal, as her felicity with the local Nagamese language, smoothened our way through several thorny situations. If it had not been for her, our trip would not have been the huge triumph it turned out to be and to her, our collective thanks. The next move was to rope in the young Shashank Dalvi, the master of the birdcall and the most fervent birder I have ever met. Ramki and I had birded with him earlier in Eaglenest in Arunachal and were great admirers of his talents. Sumit, a doubting Thomas if ever there was one, a hard-nosed and successful banker all his life, works on the philosophy of not forming an opinion on just hearsay, but waits till the incumbent passes muster! He had not met Shashank before and I was a bit apprehensive about this, but am happy to report, posto facto, that they got along famously, with Sumit actually congratulating the young man on his birding abilities! All that remained was to chart out a sensible itinerary. Khonoma, in southern Nagaland, selected itself, as it was the only major place in the state, that is habitually visited by Indian and global birders and is comparatively well-documented. Shashank had earlier made a quick trip here and seen some of its rarities, besides notching up the Gouldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shortwing, a first for Nagaland. Other available trip reports too hailed its glory. The omniscient Bano then suggested the Benreu area, and an inspired choice it proved to be. Lastly, we settled on the Intangki (or Intanki) region to round-off our trip. We would use Dimapur and Kohima as transit points. Bano and our old allies Help Tourism, made the requisite arrangements and we were lucky to secure the services on the celebrated Angulie Meyase, Nagalandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only birding guide!

Our Innerline permits secured, refreshments procured (Nagaland has prohibition), and our thermals packed, we congregated at Kolkata’s Netaji Subash Chandra Bose Airport to take the only fight to Dimapur, Nagaland’s sole airport. It was while checking in, that it suddenly struck me that, between the five team members, we represented all five regions of India – a truly ‘nationally integrated team!’ Uncharacteristically Air India delivered us on time, and we met up with Angulie and Shashank, who had taken the train from Guwahati in next-door Assam. Packing our bags into a Sumo jeep we set off along Nagaland’s main artery, National Highway No 39, which connects the two major cities of Dimapur and Kohima. Leaving town we soon started to climb and before we had covered a mere twenty kilometres, our car started spewing steam and came to a grinding halt. We were soon to discover the cause of our misfortune; our driver had decided, for reasons best known to him, to take off the fan-belt! Furthermore he had no tools to put it back again. Darkness had fallen by now and we were a little perturbed, as Nagaland has its fair share of political upheaval and by evensong most people are indoors with shutters secured. We made several urgent calls to Kohima for replacement vehicles, which providentially arrived after an hour and a half. Not quite a propitious start to our visit. Now relocated into our new cars (we took the precaution of ordering two vehicles this time to avoid a repeat performance) we drove along the highway before veering off the main road, short of Kohima, and limped into Khonoma and into the warm confines of “Baby’s Home Stay” run by the vivacious Vikedono, a wonderful lady of uncertain age known universally and simply as ‘Baby’. A hot cup of tea followed by several doses of Scotland’s finest invention did much to remove the chill that had sunk into our bones. Ramki, a high-class Brahmin from South India, is genetically conditioned to have a bath even in freezing temperatures, decided to proceed with his daily ritual, while I affirmed, that having studied in a military-type boarding school in the high Himalayas, would make do with the customary 10

weekly bath. A hot dinner later we were ensconced in our beds to spend the first of several not-so-warm nights in Nagaland. It had been a long tiring day, but a quick sighting of the uncommon Leopard Cat, on the journey, augured well for the rest of the trip.

Khonoma Village, Nagaland Khonoma, a historic Naga Angami village and the site of two legendry British-Angami siege battles in 1847 and 1879, is reminiscent of the Gaul village that resisted the Romans in the legendary Asterix comics. It came into distinction in the birding world as the local residents, who take an active part in preserving the habitat and its wildlife, declared the environs of Khonoma Village a reserve and banned hunting in 2000. The Khonoma villagers set up the Khonoma Nature Conservation and Tragopan Sanctuary in 1998. This safe haven, which covers an area of over 70 sq kms is privately owned and managed by the village community. This has resulted in birders and other tourists coming to this area and providing the inhabitants with alternative employment. Our amiable and efficient guide Angulie is a product of this experiment. A very laudable initiative, and which we sincerely hope is replicated in other parts of Nagaland. The sun rises truly early in the east and we were out of bed at five and a few life-restoring gulps of tea later, piled into the cars to start our first true day of serious birding. We drove along for about thirty minutes before we arrived at a set of buildings, constructed for the benefit of tourists. These were rather basic and unoccupied, but had a parking lot where we disembarked to the call of the Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler, a recent split from its more westerly cousin the Rusty-cheeked. The sun hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hit our turf yet and we peered into the undergrowth to seek this bird. We never saw it and despite hearing its distinctive call throughout our entire trip it never revealed itself well, and we only got fleeting views. The Streak-breasted did however give us reasonably good views.

Sunrise over the hills surrounding Khonoma village 11

We settled on walking further along the road where the sun had broken through, and soon I had the first of my several lifers - the Grey Sibia. We spread along the route but soon the sight of Shashank doing a sort of Michael Jackson break-dance had us soon scampering to his side. The object of his elation soon revealed itself to be an Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, an unrecorded bird for this location but none-the-less a lifer for all of us. The walk produced Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Maroon Oriole, several Orange-flanked Bush Robins (sometimes called Himalayan Red-flanked Bush Robin or Redflanked Bluetail), Ashy Drongos, Blue-fronted Redstarts, Grey Bushchats and Grey-hooded Warblers. All along the Great Barbet kept up its raucous song and the both the Hill and the Rufous-throated Partridges were heard intermittently. A pair of Mountain Hawk Eagles patrolled the skies.

Degraded forests surrounding Khonoma village hold many key bird species Hunger struck and we decided to return to the cars for an eagerly awaited breakfast. A pair of Assam Laughingthrushes soon exposed themselves. We were pleased to see these recently split species and now understood the reason for their divorce from the Red-headed (or Chestnut-headed). Our excitement soon turned to exultation as we neared the cars, for a bunch of the very local Striped Laughingthrushes gave us exemplary views. To cap it all Sumit sighted a Crested Finchbill perched precariously atop a tall conifer. Had I known then that it would be the first of several hundred we would see, I might have been a little less ecstatic. A flock of Black-throated (Red-headed) Tits suddenly appeared to vanish soon after, as did a large flock of Grey-sided Laughingthrushes. Red-faced Liocichla were seen frequently and warblers were represented by the Ashy-throated. Little Buntings were exceedingly regular and incidentally were the only member of the ilk that we saw on the entire trip. As we washed down our boiled eggs with warm tea, the Long-tailed Shrike of the black- headed race (tricolor) hung around us and we saw even more Fire-tailed Sunbirds, the dominant sunbird of the trip.

The â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Parking Lotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is the main hub of birding activity in Khonoma village 12

Behind where we had parked our cars was steep escarpment covered with thick forest and the young duo of Ramki and Shashank (along with the ever-willing Angulie) decided to clamber up the narrow path that led to it. The reason was simple, for on an earlier trip Shashank (with Sachin Rai) had found the Gould’s Shortwing there along with the Naga Wren Babbler (images from earlier trip).

Long-tailed (Naga) Wren Babbler

Gould’s Shortwing

A quick review of the terrain made Sumit and me decline their kind offer to join them on this suicidal venture. I silently cursed the indolent life I had led, full of indulgence, and for which I would now miss a few lifers. I tried to take consolation by arguing I had passed on the baton to those with sturdier limbs. It didn’t work and I was green with envy. In the event they not only saw the Naga Wren Babbler, but to twist the knife even more arduously, they saw and photographed the Cachar Wren Babbler and probably most significantly captured on camera the Brown-capped Laughingthrush, a bird not reliably sighted in recent times. To top it all they also managed to see the Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler, not to mention Flavescent Bulbuls.

Cachar Wedge-billed Babbler It might be worthwhile to tarry a while here to discuss the significance of these sightings. To start with the Cachar Wedge-billed Babbler, which nomenclaturaly has had a chequered history, for it started life as the Wedgebilled Wren Sphenocichla humei with the sub-species, found south of the River Brahmaputra, being called S h roberti. It has also been called Wedge-billed Wren, Hume’s Wren Babbler 13

and Wedge-billed Tree Babbler. It was Pam Rasmussen who gave it some sort of stability by splitting it into the Cachar Wedge-billed Babbler S roberti and Sikkim Wedge-billed Babbler S humei, further claiming that they were not wren-babblers at all but babblers. To add to the confusion the Cachar is also known as the Chevron-breasted in some quarters! All this notwithstanding it is extremely elusive, very local and little known, and it is truly ironic that Ramki happens to be the proud owner of two exquisite lithographs of both the roberti and humei by John Gould painted in the 1830s. He is also perhaps the only Indian who has photographed both species! The Naga Wren Babbler has had less of a torturous journey, simply being split from the Long-tailed Wren-babbler. A few pictures exist of this bird mostly from the Khonoma area, but by and large it too remains an under-studied bird with little understood about its habits, breeding and song. Certainly the most significant find of the day was the Brown-capped Laughingthrush. According to one source, Dr S Dillon Ripley was the last to see it in Nagaland in 1952. No Photographs of this nominate species exist from India (nor does it turn up in the food markets in Nagaland) and our valiant heroic trio need to be congratulated for finding and photographing this truly enigmatic bird. Restricted to Nagaland and Manipur, it has never appeared in any trip report, though the sub-species victoriae is seen in neighbouring Myanmar and possibly the Lushai Hills in Mizoram

Brown-capped Laughingthrush Sumit and I decided to walk slowly down, disturbing a large flock of Olive-backed Pipits. After a few hundred yards I decided to take a shortcut through an open patch while Sumit decided to follow the road. When we met up an hour later we both sported smug looks, as both of us had put up skulking coveys of the Mountain Bamboo Partridges, much sort-after lifers for us. Soon a large flock of Rusty-fronted Barwings appeared. They were much paler than the ones we had seen earlier in the Himalayas. Later consulting Pam’s book we learnt that the sub-species khasiana found here is indeed much lighter in colour. We looked hard for Rusty-capped Fulvettas, an esoteric species seldom seen elsewhere, but resident in this part of the world, and while we heard it a few times, it escaped our sight throughout the trip. As we descended towards Khonoma, we passed through an interesting-looking forest. The Naga’s coppice alder trees, which then sprout several straight vertical branches, which once they attain respectable size are harvested for firewood. Blue Whistling Thrushes lurked in these strange ‘Lord-of-the Rings’ type woods. So ended our day and we spent the evening discussing its events and it was indeed a happy horde that retired for the night.

Babyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Home Stay, Khonoma Nagaland Next morning, we woke to the call of the more-heard-than-seen Mountain Scops Owl, and an hour later drove back to the same prolific spot, encountering several Mountain Bamboo Partridges on the way, none of whom afforded us a chance to photograph them, much to the vexation of our two lensmen. Turning a corner we surprised a cryptic Eurasian Woodcock. This woodland bird is a nocturnal feeder and though not uncommon, is seldom seen by birders in India. It disappeared into the undergrowth and though we searched hard, it never reappeared. We parked our cars at the same place and started our trek up the road. We saw several of the species we had seen the previous day, but we all felt that the birding was much slower that morning, though Blue-fronted Redstarts, Crested Finchbills and Grey Sibias were abundant.

Crested Finchbill In due course we added Rufous (Orange)-gorgeted Flycatcher, Striated Bulbuls, Hill Prinia, Rufouscapped Babblers and Pygmy Blue Flycatcher. Three Speckled Wood Pigeons swooped by before we could react and the skies held Crested Goshawks, Common Buzzard, Common Kestrel and a single Black Eagle. The sunbirds list was augmented by a Green-tailed. But perhaps the most significant moment of all was a sighting of the undistinguished looking, but very local and rare Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, next to an old abandoned beehive. Revived by a sumptuous breakfast of Pumpkin curry and pooris, cooked by Bano, the younger contingent started to scamper up the hill again in order to getter better pictures of the Brown-capped Laughingthrush (they succeeded!), while we, went down back to Khonoma to pack and proceed to Kohima for some well deserved R & R. The journey back was uneventful, other than for a Great Barbet and an abnormally bright Long-tailed Shrike. 15

On the short drive from Khonoma to Kohima we passed large timber camps with huge logs strewn along the roads, which sent a chill down our spines. Would Nagaland follow the example of neighbouring Assam, where large tracts of forests have been cleared? And we cursed the greed of men, who thought of nothing in clearing huge tracts of forests for filthy lucre.

Logging is prevalent in many parts of Nagaland. This on the road to Kohima We checked into the extremely pleasant ‘The Heritage’, once the famous District Commissioner’s residence, over whose tennis courts the famous battle of Kohima was fought. I half-seriously told Sumit that had the Indo-British troops lost the battle of Garrison Hill to the Japanese here, today he might well be called Sumit–san or even worse Sen-san! We met the extremely personable Theja Meru, a hardrock aficionado, who now manages the resort and soon we were around a roaring log fire, exchanging notes on the happenings of the day. Bano had spent a part of her childhood growing up in this bungalow, when her father served as head honcho of the district and was delighted to be back. Later T. Angami, the famous forester of Nagaland, dropped in for dinner and gave us an insight to the situation of the forests and wildlife of Nagaland, and we discussed the contentious problem of hunting and of which more anon.

Heritage Hotel, Kohima ~ once the District Commissioner’s House Next morning we visited the magnificent Kohima War Cemetery, which is without doubt the bestmaintained monument I have ever visited. It is worth coming to Nagaland just to see what a wonderful job the Commonwealth War Graves Commission has done. We then went on to the famed Kohima food market, where we amazed at the variety of food on offer. We replenished our stocks and were soon on our way to Benreu. Kohima added Eurasian Tree Sparrows and a few Barn Swallows to our list.

An hour out of Kohima, we stopped in a small patch of Pine forest, where Angulie (who was proving to be indispensable), said he had seen the rare Chestnut-vented Nuthatch (image). Before long Shashank had managed to lure a pair right before our eyes and we spent an happy hour watching and photographing this obscure nuthatch, which carries the proud appellation S. nagaensis. Few, if any, photographs exist of this bird in India and it was a pleased Messrs Sen and Sreenivasan who finally packed their cameras away. A single Black-breasted Thrush crossed the road, giving us very poor and unsatisfactory views. The road to Benreu took us through the Dzulekie forest; some of the finest and wildest jungles we have been privileged to see. Dense and pristine, it overawed us with its mere presence. We stopped often just to savour the beauty of these antediluvian woods and on one occasion failed to positively identify a tiny but exceedingly swift raptor. A few Common Stonechats were seen along with the ubiquitous Crested Finchbills. A single Chestnut Thrush of, possibly, the gouldi ssp. fled at our approach as we closed in on our destination.

Climax forest of great beauty marks the drive from Khonoma to Benreu Situated in the district of Peren, the quaint little village of Benreu lies perched 1950 metres above sea level on the Barail range, and houses a unique community where the minority animist population dictates the customs and social rules to the majority Christians. Benreu is truly a living showcase of the endangered culture of these highlanders. We checked into the Mt. Pauna Tourist Village, where our rooms were sparse but adequate. Birding-wise we were in virgin territory, with earlier trips reports being non-existent, but as the environs looked exceedingly promising we awoke the next morning with a high sense of anticipation. Soon it was to be proved, that our excitement was not without foundation and despite the obvious signs of hunters and hunting, birds were plentiful.

Benreu village at the foot of Mt Paona; Peren Sumit and I started strolling ahead, while Ramki and Shashank gathered their various instruments and soon we came upon a flock of Chestnut Thrushes. As we peered at them through the mist, we saw a single plain- coloured bird. Sumit quickly took a photograph and we were delighted to find that it was the globally threatened Grey-sided Thrush (image), seen scarcely in the South Assam Hills. We were delighted, but not so Shashank who was very keen to add this bird to his life-list. Though we assured him we would see it later, we did not find another that day. We walked on, seeing a Flavescent Bulbul. A Rufous-bellied Woodpecker was spotted busy tapping a tall tree, the only member of this family we saw in the hills, though we heard the Bay Woodpecker several times. Other birds seen included the Golden-fronted Barbet, Maroon Oriole, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Yellow-bellied Fantail and Green-backed Tits. As usual the Himalayan Black Bulbul of the nigrescens race were ever-present in large numbers. A pair of large birds deep in the leafy canopy had us completely foxed. I kept insisting that they were Purple Cochoa, but Sumit kept disagreeing claiming that they looked like Large Cuckooshrikes. I dismissed his claim, but later the photographs proved that he was correct and as Pam Rasmussenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s book confirmed, they are available up to 1800m in winter (in summer they can be found up to 2400m) and we were only a tad above this. They were probably of the siamensis race. We breakfasted on a curve on the road in bright sunshine, and were interrupted by a pair of Whitetailed Nuthatches who played chase-the-leader on a small tree next to us. A Crested Goshawk and a Black Eagle soared the thermals. Sumit and I decided to walk down the road leaving the trio to do their nosy-parker bit, running up and down several gullies like demented mountain goats. We met several hunters (some sporting camouflaged gear) on the road, and whose mere presence confirmed our suspicions that hunting was rife in this part as well.

A sudden flock of Blue-winged and Chestnut tailed Minlas kept Sumit occupied and from somewhere a fulvetta appeared and was caught by his ever-alert camera. This bird later caused some excitement to Shashank who felt that it was a bird of the austeni race of the White-browed Fulvetta. However, the photograph was not clear enough to provide conclusive evidence. A few Nepal Fulvettas were also seen, as were Black-throated (breasted) Sunbirds of the assamensis race. While we were busy with the fulvettas, the adolescent threesome had climbed a promising looking gully and had played the recording of the Cachar Wedge-billed Babbler, luring not one but five of them! When we regrouped for lunch, they declared that the said gully was an easy climb even for our carcasses. So off we went risking life and limb and precariously clambered up the slippery slopes and positioned ourselves. Quivering with anticipation, we heard the call being played by Shashank who was perched much higher than us. Almost instantly an individual reacted, but much to our disappointment, none revealed themselves and so yet another bird joined my long list of ‘so-close-yet-so-far’. A pair of fluffy Mountain Bulbuls and a Spotted Forktail repaired some of the frustration. A Buff-barred Warbler caused some confusion and a frosty Asian Barred Owlet sat unmoving on a pole, just outside the hotel. Next morning, Shashank was ready to be the first to go out, so as not to miss the Grey-sided Thrush and sure enough, we chanced upon them almost immediately. As Ramki and Shashank had finished photographing a particular individual, one of India’s rarest birds fell dead at their feet, having being brought down by the unerring aim of a young boy’s catapult. Much shaken, we went on to see a flock of Eyebrowed along with Chestnut Thrushes. We walked on flushing a few Mountain Bamboo Partridges, notching up Blue Rock Thrush, Blue Whistling Thrush, Rufous-chinned Laughing thrush and a few Red-faced Liocichlas. Today was a good day for Greenish Warblers, Whiskered Yuhinas and Fire-breasted Flowerpeckers. A flock of rare-in-these parts Red-billed Leiothrix was the first (and only) of the trip and I saw a bright single Golden Bush Robin male. Soon I found a small flock of the high-ranging Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons, and called to Sumit who was busy photographing some other bird and wouldn’t respond. When we reviewed his pictures the reason for his non-compliance emerged - the seldom seen and nomadic Purple Cochoa! This unobtrusive bird is said to be a scarce summer visitor and its winter whereabouts is supposedly mysterious and so perhaps a clue here somewhere! We returned to the hotel, breakfasted and packed and prepared to move onto our last birding area. The plan was to shimmy up the furrow again to give the Wedge-billed Babblers another go, but again the exercise proved to be futile. Frustrated we moved on, our next destination being the town of Jalukie, where we would be reinforced by local citizens, who would accompany us to the politically disturbed area of Intangki.

Ramki and Shasank were in the first car and Sumit and I stopped to see a huge flock of about eighty Red-tailed Minlas. When we caught up with them, we found that they had stopped by the side of a sharply inclined hill, covered with scrub and grass. Shashank had unpacked his sound equipment and was playing the call of the Spot-breasted Parrotbill. I whispered to Sumit that all of this was a complete waste of time, and that we should walk ahead. But suddenly the bird called back, sending us into frenetic activity. Positions were taken up along the road with cameras and binoculars poised, when suddenly the bird stopped calling, and the trio prepared to climb the steep slopes to meet the bird on its own turf. Mercifully it called again and this time Shashank swung into action and recorded its call. After that it was easy for him to bring the bird within forty feet of us. Cameras clicked and the birds did not seem perturbed, feeding on grass stalks, while Ramki and Sumit fired away. The Spot-breasted Parrotbill (image) superficially resembles the Black-breasted of the Brahmaputra floodplains, which we all had seen, with some difficulty on earlier trips, in Dibru-Saikowa. Never even in my wildest imagination did I ever think I would ever see this super-specialty. Shashank, alias Dalmore, now promoted to Lord Dalmore accepted our accolades with equanimity. This was a truly significant find, probably only the third sighting in the South Assam Hills in as many decades and the sole credit for locating the bird goes to him. His uncanny ability to match habitat with specific birds will stand him in good stead over the years.

Habitat of the Spot-breasted Parrotbill (above). Benreu area Elated we drove into Jalukie town where Bano had organized a huge and delectable lunch. We met Devisier, Bano’s nephew and local hotshot and who had had brought with him a gentleman, instantly christened ‘Blue-shirt’, who was to be our minder during our foray into the Intangki area. This part of the world is highly volatile and several groups of insurgents have taken refuge in its verdant forests and we were warned of the existing risks. We would be staying in the Kuki tribal settlement of Llilen, about 15 kms from the border of the Intanki National Park. Our original plan was to stay inside the park, but we were dissuaded (correctly) against being foolhardy. The Gaon Bura or village headman had arranged for us to stay at the community longhouse. As we drove up to it, we started seeing birds of the plains like Red-headed Lapwings, Black Drongos and Cattle Egrets.

Llilen village is the gateway to Intanki National Park We spent a cold night in the drafty longhouse and the morning came as a bit of relief. The plot was that the youth would walk towards Intangki, accompanied by Blue-shirt and a local tribal, to see if they could find hornbills, which are rumoured to still exist here, while Sumit, Bano and I would check out the environs. It was still dark when they set off and I was sure they would not be seen till dusk. We in the meanwhile walked around the surrounding forests, which despite the obvious signs of rampant hunting were still thick with birds. The first to be seen was a Greater Flameback, followed in quick succession by a White-rumped Shama, White-breasted Kingfishers, Indian Roller, Oriental Magpie Robin and a Red-breasted Flycatcher. A gigantic fruiting ficus played host to several Asian Fairy Bluebirds, Spangled (Hair-crested) Drongos, Grey-headed Canary Flycatchers and Black-crested Bulbuls. As we trudged back to camp we saw White-rumped Munias, Common Ioras and several Redvented Bulbuls. A pair of Little Spiderhunters regularly visited a flowering palm. All the tailorbirds turned out to be Dark (Black)-necked, which caused a fair bit of excitement. A set of large warblers had us baffled and we wondered if they were possibly Eastern Crowned Warblers, but since Pam reckons that they are hypothetical in the region and that previous specimens from the South Assam Hills turned out to be Blythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, we thought it prudent to send out our pictures to experts and we now await a final verdict.

Suspension bridge, Intanki National Park In the nonce, things were not going well for our intrepid colleagues for Blue-shirt turned out to be a bit of a vicarious hunter and pointed out several birds, which the accompanying local brought down with his gun. The path, it seemed, was full of other hunters, using a combination of guns, traps and slingshots. They had obviously done well as their bulging bags revealed several dead and injured birds and this so appalled Ramki and Shashank that they ordered a retreat, much to the dismay of Blue-shirt. 21

Despite this unsavoury experience they managed to see several Eyebrowed Thrushes, Dusky Warblers, Oriental Turtle Doves, Blossom (Rosy)-headed Parakeets, Rufescent Prinia, Little Pied Flycatcher, Black-hooded Orioles, Common Hill Mynas, Rufous-fronted Babblers and White-browed Scimitar Babblers. A hunter’s sack revealed a dead Black-headed Bulbul, the singular bird we had searched for so hard throughout our trip.

The bag, Intanki National Park, Nagaland It was in a despondent state of mind that we left Llilen and drove to Dimapur, seeing Common Kestrel and a few White Wagtails of the alboides race. We checked into the exceedingly comfortable Aier’s Enclave and proceeded for lunch to the popular Plaza Restaurant, where we gorged on familiar food. The afternoon was spent in attending to our aching bodies, catching up on news of the outside world and finalizing our trip list. Next morning Sumit and Shashank went off to see the Zoo, based in Rangapahar and located in a large forested area, which allowed good birding as well. They saw, inter alia, Coppersmith Barbet, Green-billed Malkoha, Himalayan Swiftlets, Spotted Doves, Grey-backed Shrikes, Chestnut-tailed Starlings, Barn Swallows and several Scaly-breasted Munias, possibly of ssp. topela which well might be interesting for India. Several commoner species were seen as well. Perhaps their most significant sighting was Spot-winged Starlings (image), a summer visitor to the Northern hills, an a bit of a mystery bird. All in all, a very satisfactory morning for them. In the meanwhile Ramki and I decided to visit the food market in Dimapur. The startling sight we saw, of many rare species of birds and endangered mammals being openly sold, sharply brought in to focus the many contradictions of Nagaland. A pristine terrain teeming with myriad birds and animals, but where traditional hunting vies with modern conservation. A land where every man and child smiles, but is tragically torn asunder by controversial politics. Where jean-clad young sit next to time-honoured warriors in complete harmony. Where traditional hornpipes compete with the modern guitar. Never have I seen such a glorious amalgamation, bringing to mind William Blake’s great line “Great things are done where men and mountains meet”

Birding in Nagaland: Part II ‘Birdin’ in the Rain (with apologies to Gene Kelly) Text: Bikram Grewal Images: Sumit Sen 27March - 1April, 2010

Clouds clothe the stripped hills ~ Wokha, Nagaland

“It shall be the duty of every citizen of India to protect and improve the natural environment including forests, lakes, rivers and wildlife and to have compassion for living creatures” Section 51A Fundamental Duties of the Indian Constitution It was time to make our second trip to Nagaland as part of our ongoing bird survey of the avifauna of the small, but largely unknown, hill-state of Nagaland, tucked away in the eastern-most corner of India. Bano Haralu, our mentor and minder, was to accompany us throughout, but two members of the original team Ramki and Shasank were otherwise occupied, so we decided to induct Mohit Aggarwal into our midst. This proved to be an inspired choice for Mohit, with a background of working with the World Wildlife Fund, has an insatiable curiosity about everything and spends most of time poking his nose into what may seem to others inconsequential matters. He would, as it turned out, often surprise us with his knowledge by pronouncing, for instance, on seeing a dead mustelid being sold on an 23

obscure road, that it was a Yellow-bellied Weasel, one of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s least seen mammals. By the same token, he would announce with great authority and confidence that the bird, which Sumit had been trying to identify with difficulty, was such and such, driving the ever-cautious banker completely insane. Mohit notched a 50% success rate! The plot this time was to travel through central and northern parts of Nagaland where few outsiders had ever been. We knew that this region was heavily under Jhum or the slash-and-burn method of cultivation, and that hunting was rampant. But what we saw surprised even us. And the rain!

So the three of us arrived at Dimapur, Air India delivering again on time despite a rather hair-raising landing. We drove straight to Kohima where Banoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s family had laid out a party for us, complete with great food and drink and the younger lot sang late into the night. Our thanks to all of them. We also finally met Mr. Khekiye Sema, former Commissioner and Secretary, Art & Culture, who had originally sanctioned our trip. The next morning we had an appointment with Nagalandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charming and dapper Chief Minister Mr. Neiphiu Rio. While driving to his residence, the heavens opened (and the rain never really stopped till we finally left Nagaland a week later!). As the windows and doors banged around in the storm, we told him of what we had earlier seen and what we proposed ought to be done. To his credit, he listened with attention and even offered us tea and biscuits, which was very gracious of him, considering we were telling him dreadful stories about hunting in his domain. We left him a set of photographs of the rarer birds of Nagaland that we had taken on our previous trip, which he promised to display on his office wall. 24

Like our erstwhile team members, our guide from the last trip, Angulie, too was unavailable. He was replaced by the similar sounding Aselie Meyase. Our new driver Tokaho Zhimoni proved to be an excellent and willing character who drove our Sumo jeep with great dexterity through rather difficult roads, and that too in blinding rain. The completely bald tyres worried Mohit a great deal, but did not seem to trouble the poker-faced Tokaho. Among his other talents was the art of silence and I do not recollect ever hearing his voice. While watching Common Rosefinches at The Heritage, our favourite place to stay in Kohima, we loaded our baggage on the roof-rack and covered it with the rain-stopping, and thereby life-saving tarpaulin, simply known throughout India as tripal. Packed lunch in hand, we set off (three hours late) for the district headquarter town of Wokha in whose environs we would spend our first night in the field. It rained incessantly and visibility was exceedingly poor, but our charioteer drove with great ability. Birding was out of the question, so we drove on cursing the rains that were two months late in coming, causing huge water shortage throughout the state. And while we knew these showers were a god-sent for the people, it did interfere with our survey and (as our meagre trip list will reveal) heavily curtailed our birding. A small break in the weather instantly prompted us to stretch our legs and we saw the first uncommon birds of this trip - Silver-eared Mesias and a single Flavescent Bulbul. What a good start to our birding, we thought! We drove on peering through the rain and mist, and passed villages with unpronounceable names: Chiephobozou, Cheichama, Nsunyu, Chunlika. Most of the area was under jhum, the curse of these eastern-most states, and large stretches lay denuded. A truly heart-breaking sight.

Great stretches under ‘jhum’ were a common sight. Wokha area Perhaps the only incident that enthused us was the sighting of a single (Eastern) Large-billed Crow. Sumit was convinced that no crows existed in Nagaland, being particularly desirable as table-birds, and indeed we hadn’t seen or heard one on the earlier trip. Therefore our exultation, though we are yet to see the House Crow in Nagaland. Great Barbets were, however, raucous and cried from all points. A pair of White-throated Fantails were also glimpsed when we took a welcome, and partially dry, break for lunch. Late in the afternoon we finally reached Wokha, had a refreshing cup of tea and then drove the final bit to the village of Old Riphyim, where we had arranged to stay. Somewhere along the road we turned right, and took a smaller (and bumpier) side road to our destination we passed through relatively good plains forest, obviously protected by the local community. A small blue bird flashed by and we scrambled out, confirming that it was a Black-naped Monarch. Soon Oriental Turtle Doves began to emerge in small numbers and we saw a pair of Common Hoopoes on a tree. A pair of small green25

pigeons, probably Orange-breasted, flashed through the air, but the light was bad and we could not positively identify them. A Grey-backed Shrike sat impassively on a bare branch. This activity, although modest and momentary, served to keep our spirits up. It was not to be an easy check-in, for the entire flock of village elders, some two hundred strong, had collected to greet us and we had to shake hands with every one of them. I now know why political leaders are so grumpy! A certain Mr. Renthungoalso, the Manager (self-appointed, I think!) of Old Riphyim Tourist Center, stepped forward and took charge. Instantly dubbed Professor of Economics, he began a long sermon on the history and culture of the village. We ached for some life-restoring brew from the verdant soil of Scotland, but he had found his metier. When we later realized that we were the first tourists in almost two years, we forgave him his enthusiasm.

Traditional â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Lotha Morungâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;; Old Riphyim, Wokha To bed at last, tired and disappointed but looking forward to a better dawn, we slept fitfully though the night while a huge hailstorm raged outside. The morning was still frustratingly wet and a quick drive around the adjoining area, mostly under Jhum, made us realize that we needed a quick change in plans since a few Fire-breasted Flowerpeckers were the only stars. Urgent phone calls later we decided to abandon Old Riphyim and move to our next destination a day ahead of schedule. Understandably, the extremely polite staff and village elders were disappointed at our decision. But we were lagging behind in our survey and so decided to visit the Doyang reservoir before moving to Aizuto in the Zunheboto district the land of the Sema tribe.

Doyang Dam, Wokha 26

There were two reasons for going to Doyang Reservoir. One was of course that it is Nagaland’s only large water body, created by the damming of the Doyang river, and we were keen to see if we could find some water birds like ducks and waders. The second was that this is the spot where the annual mass murder of several hundreds, if not thousands, of Amur Falcons who passage through, takes place in the winter (see ‘A sad encounter in Nagaland’). The rain had let up briefly when we reached a small habitation, which served as the offices and residences of several hundred people whose work revolves around the dam. The habitat was generally undisturbed with no ostensible signs of hunting. We drove up to the dam, cleared security and procured permission to walk on the barrage. The lake itself was disappointingly bereft of any signs of birdlife. No ducks, no waders, and no gulls or terns. There were, however, compensations: the rain had stopped, and the barrage and the overhead electric wires held several hundred Striated and Red-rumped Swallows, gathered together. The light was too poor to take any spectacular photographs and Sumit had to be content with whatever he could manage. Suddenly we saw a familiar bird quivering its tail a Black Redstart, which we later discovered was a new addition to the avifauna of Nagaland. Chuffed, we walked on and soon the party split up, walking several yards apart. I saw a Black-crested Bulbul high up on a tree and a few White-eyes. All along an unfamiliar galliforme called from the nearby shrubs and I was truly delighted when a passerby disturbed a Rufousthroated Hill Partridge, which flew leisurely up a densely forested hill. In the meanwhile the others confirmed that it was indeed a Black-backed Forktail that we had glimpsed on the drive up. Mohit, while having tea at the local chai-wallah, had ferreted out the all-important information that a small shop, which sold hot parathas and chickpea curry, existed in the mechanical workshop area of the settlement. We trooped off there and partook of a great breakfast. The conversation was not pleasant though, for we learnt from our fellow diners that thousands of Amur Falcons arrive in the area from about mid-October to mid-December, presumably on autumn migration to East and South Africa. According to our new friends, who easily identified this small raptor from our books, these ill-fated birds arrive in droves and sit on the high-tension wires. The locals then trap them by nets and sack-fulls are sold as food in the local markets at Rs.25 (USD 0.5) per bird. This conversation, along with the paucity of birds to see, made us want to leave. Doyang had belied our expectations and our spirits were low. We returned to Wokha. Aselie and Tokaho, who had sneered at our vegetarian breakfast and had pointblank refused to join us at our repast, now trooped into the local eatery and ordered large quantities of pork and fish to be eaten with boiled rice. We sauntered around the small local market buying delicious, locally grown oranges. Nearby sat a young girl of matchless beauty, selling dried fish and bamboo shoots. I drew Mohit’s attention to this Venus. His jaw dropped and you could see he was clearly impressed. It was with great difficulty that we finally managed to pry him away, and that too by enticing him to join the others for a bowl of rice accompanied with dried fish and chilli chutney.

It was getting dark and the weather remained inclement as we drove to our next destination Aizuto. We passed desolate lengths of land cleared of all vegetation. A large nightjar flew past on the side of the road, and I was convinced that it was a Great-eared Nightjar, a bird I had been itching to see, but our referee Sumit Sen refused to even consider my plea. Unless the bird has been seen from about six inches away or photographed from about the same distance, he will not accept it. I chided him and said that he should join the hunters so he can identify dead birds in hand! We were to see a similar bird later (again unaccepted!) and I can only appeal to birders birding in this area to keep a sharp look out for a big nightjar, so I can prove my point to the stoic arbitrator. Soon we ran into dense fog and the drive became perhaps the most spine-tingling I have ever undertaken. Our car had no fog lamps and Sumit had often to stick his neck to peer through the pea-soup mist to guide Tokaho. We drove very slowly and after what seemed to be interminable hours, finally crawled into the compound of the Mission Centre, Sema Baptist Church. Aizuto has an interesting history, for it was here that the first American missionary Rev. Anderson arrived in Sema country, in 1938, and started converting the local people. He was obviously successful for most of the Semas are Baptists now. Mr. Picuto, Executive Secretary of the splendidly named Sumi Baptist Akukuhou Kuhakulu, was at hand to greet us. The good reverendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house now serves as a guesthouse and we were soon shown our rooms, all resplendent in red velvet. A pretty flock of girls from the local college had been gang-pressed to cook for us, and they were indeed a hard-working and cheerful lot who turned out delicious meals, under the eagle eye of Bano who had realised quite quickly that the only way to keep a bunch of disgruntled birders quiet was to feed them till they were comatose.

Dense evergreen forests around Aizuto 28

The area surrounding our dwellings has been protected for 3 years and hunting is banned by the church and the village council; so, needless to say, we did our best birding in this area. We woke early, to the raucous calls of milling Black Bulbuls and the never-ending dirge of the Large Hawk Cuckoo. Gulping down our tea, prepared by the red-eyed students, we took advantage of the break in the rain and drove up a hill track above the mission. Soon we were seeing Little Buntings and a distant Flavescent Bulbul. Both its Red-vented and Red-whiskered cousins were in evidence. All the drongos turned out to be Ashy and flocks of Olive-backed Pipits fled at our approach. We drove up further and discovered a small congregation of Blue-winged Minlas and a single lone Crimson Sunbird. The warblers were represented by Yellow-browed, Greenish and Blythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Leaf. When things were looking up, the downpour started again, forcing us to beat a hasty and undignified retreat. Post breakfast we ventured out again, but this time took the lower road towards Zunheboto. In between bouts of drizzle, we managed to see Small Niltava and an Asian Barred Owlet. A familiar call led us to the recently split Assam Laughingthrush, the only member of this family we saw on the entire trip. Grey-hooded Warblers were around and a solo Black-throated Tit appeared, only to soon melt away. The Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher was seen, as were Spotted Doves. Just shows what a little protection can do. Prevent the forest from being cut and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t allow hunting, and the birds will return.

Small Niltava Somewhat pleased, we returned for lunch and while waiting for the rainfall to abate, Sumit climbed up to the roof and managed a passable photograph, from a great distance, of a Black-breasted Thrush which made me very fractious; but as I had chosen to snooze, the fault was entirely mine. Later in the afternoon, we covered both the sections again and added Pygmy Wren Babbler, Grey Sibia, Long-tailed Minivet, Verditer Flycatcher, and Silver-eared Mesia to our list. But perhaps the best bird we saw was the Pale Blue Flycatcher, a bird long sought after by us. We had managed fleeting looks on an earlier trip to Manas but this time Sumit managed to capture it on his camera. We were as pleased as punch. We left early next morning, our destination being the Ghosu Bird Sanctuary, of which we had heard much and had high expectations from. Bano had worked her usual magic and spoken to Mr. Kiheto Zhimoni (another relative!), the Deputy Commissioner of Zunheboto District and boss of all he surveyed. We reached his charmingly located house at the crack of dawn, shivering in the cold, and the exceedingly hospitable gentleman was awake and awaiting our arrival with hot breakfast. He kindly lent us the services of his dubasi or interpreter, to guide us to Ghosu, and I hoped that the Burra Sahib would return to his warm bed as soon as he had got rid of this crazy bunch of birders. 29

The road to Ghosu is a steep descent into the Lanki river valley, and the recent rains had made the roads treacherous. But Tokaho did well and soon we were watching Mrs Gould’s Sunbird on a brilliant flowering bahunia. We passed the village of Ghukiye and continued our descent. As the confines of the sanctuary are not demarcated, we have no idea when we entered it, or indeed if we entered it at all. All we knew was that this was going to be another disappointment. We reached the river and, bar a highflying Oriental Honey Buzzard and a Grey Wagtail, precious little was seen. We didn’t tarry and, glumfaced, decided to return. The ascent was marginally better, notching up a White-throated Kingfisher and a few Blue-throated Barbets.

Lanki river at Ghosu We dropped off the very pleasant interpreter, bought some supplies at Zunheboto town and moved towards Mokokchung, where we would spend the night before exiting Nagaland, near Jorhat. The road to Mokokchung was very depressing as we passed through large tracts completely cleared of forest. The rain and storm too had wreaked their own havoc, and trees and houses lay in shambles. We did, however, manage to see a Daurian Redstart and a Pied Bushchat. A few Himalayan Swiftlets and the occasional Barn Swallow were also seen.

Traditional ‘Ao morung’ replica, Mokokchung It was a silent lot that sat for lunch at a fast-food restaurant in the capital of the Ao tribe. All the whispered conversation was about Jhumming and what it was doing to the countryside. On our 30

previous trip we had seen some (we thought manageable) amount of Jhum cultivation but this trip to the north of the state was an eye-opener. The fact there were few or no birds was simply due to the human destruction of suitable habitat, and the few that managed to survive were hunted. Earlier in the day, we had met two young kids, not older than ten; and, using a mixture of threat, bribery and cajoling, we managed to get them to disclose the contents of their bag. It revealed dead Slaty-blue Flycatcher, Long-tailed Shrike (tricolor), Plain Prinia (a new addition to the Nagaland checklist) and a returning Siberian Rubythroat all victims of their talent with lethal catapults.

Hunterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bag, Mokokchung, Nagaland Having spent the rest of the day doing the trip list, and enjoying the benefits of Mokokchongâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well-run tourist lodge, we departed early the next morning. Driving through the Minkong forest, we surprised and were surprised by a noisy gang of Large-billed Crows. We stopped at a small village on sighting a bunch of dead birds hanging for sale with an unidentified mammal. An aggressive Lesser Bandicoot lay bleeding in a small bamboo wicker cage.

Chuchuimiyang area 31

We drove on, passing Old and New Changtonya and seeing several clusters of dead birds up for sale, and finally reached the plains near the town of Tuli, where we stopped on a bridge with promising riverine forest. We added Asian Paradise Flycatcher to our list and heard the Crested Serpent Eagle cry from somewhere above. Sumit saw a couple of Ashy Woodswallows and all of us, a few Siberian Stonechats. A little further down the road, a sudden movement in a bare tree had us charge out of the car and we managed to glimpse the rarely seen Rufescent Prinia. Hill Mynas called from the dense foliage and a few Common Tailorbirds were hopping around. A Racquet-tailed Drongo flashed through the foliage, but it was too fast for us to figure out whether it was the Lesser or the Greater. The fast-moving Sumit duly captured the seldom-photographed Striated Yuhina, and that completed our trip. A few kilometers down the road, we were in Assam. So ended our second trip to Nagaland. Our trip list fell far short of the three-digit figure. And we were extremely unhappy about the level of Jhumming and hunting that existed in the areas we had traversed. Inevitably we compared this new area to the ones we had visited on the previous trip Khonoma and Benreu and which we consider to be some of the finest birding tracts in the world. We wondered why the experiment of banning hunting by the village councils, which has worked, could not be replicated here. On the brighter side, we met with nothing but kindness from the people here, and we added two new birds to the Nagaland checklist. We also saw several new places. But the problem of deforestation and hunting in Nagaland will need to be tackled with new and innovative solutions. Until then the killing fields will remainâ&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;Ś

Birding in Nagaland: Part III Nagaland Trip Text: Bikram Grewal Images: Ramki Sreenivasan 12May - 18May, 2010

Mountain Bamboo Partridge, Khonoma area

A tree is beautiful, but what’s more, it has a right to life; like water, the sun and the stars, it is essential. Life on earth is inconceivable without trees. Forests create climate, climate influences peoples’ character, and so on and so forth. There can be neither civilization nor happiness if forests crash down under the axe, if the climate is harsh and severe, if people are also harsh and severe.... What a terrible future! Anton Pavlovich Chekhov (1860–1904) This was to be our third and last trip, on behalf of the Government of Nagaland, to do a bird survey of this extreme but truly fascinating northeastern state. Sumit Sen who had been on two earlier trips was otherwise occupied, but Shashank Dalvi and Ramki Sreenivasan would re-join the team, as would Mohit Aggarwal, now an aficionado of all things Naga. Bano would continue as team leader and mother hen. We considered all the places we should visit, particularly the Mon and Tuensang areas, where we hadn’t been before, but after hearing reports of heavy hunting and slash-and-burn in those part of Nagaland, decided to settle for the Khonoma and Benreu area, which we knew were free from these two curses and decided to revisit them and do a more in-depth study. 33

Ramki, Shashank and I had spent the previous week trying to set up target species and the brilliant Shashank had produced a list that contained, inter alia, four laughingthrushes viz. Yellow-throated, White-browed, Spot-breasted and Ashy (or Moustached) as possible candidates. He studied what little was known about them, which was miniscule as two of them have never been photographed and the third was represented by a photograph of a dead bird taken in lower Arunachal. All we truly deduced was that they preferred degraded scrub rather than the traditional thick vegetation. Another bird that made the list was the rarely seen Spot-throated Babbler. I hadn’t seen the Rangapahar Zoo in Dimapur, so I flew in a day earlier and ensconced myself at the comfortable Aier’s Residency. Bano and I shopped for essentials (mostly supplementary food) and next morning made the trip to the Zoo. It was uncomfortably hot as we trekked the vast and verdant confines of the Rangapahar Zoo. As zoos go, it isn’t much, having a few birds cramped in terrible conditions, but the compounds were full of trees, which would make for good birding in more salubrious conditions. The only birds we saw were a few House Sparrows, Black Drongo, and a Greater Coucal. I promised that I would return in winter and try and see the Grey-Peacock Pheasant that is rumoured to lurk in the vegetation.

Khrieni & Gonguii Meru home-stay, Khonoma

We collected Ramki and Shashank in the afternoon and drove (chauffeured again by the silent Tokaho) straight to Khonoma, where we decided to sample the alternate home-stay run by the delightful Mr. & Mrs Meru. The rooms were brilliant with lots of warm water and having consumed a delicious dinner, nodded off as soon as our heads hit the pillows. Gulping tea at 4am, we waited for Shashank to appear with all his gear. A sound-parabola, binocular, camera, recording and playback equipment and assorted wires sticking out of him made him look like a character from a bad science fiction movie. I wondered how he ever got through airport security. Ramki confirmed that it took Shashank at least 30 minute to complete that particular operation. We got into Tokaho’s canary-yellow Sumo jeep and drove through the familiar coppiced Alder forest to the parking lot above the sleepy hamlet of Khonoma. The short journey produced Little Pied Flycatchers, a Spotted Forktail and tantalizing glimpses of Black-breasted Thrushes, which made Ramki salivate. A pair of very dark Khaleej Pheasants quickly crossed the road denying a chance of a photograph. They were almost black and that made us wonder if they were of the moffiti ssp. that I have been obsessed by after hearing about them from Tim and Carol Inskipp. Another mystery to be resolved in the future! Ramki was keen to photograph the Naga Wren-babbler, which had managed to escape his frenetic camera on the earlier visit, as well and try and see the almost mythical Gould’s Shortwing, photographed by Sachin Rai at the same spot exactly a year earlier to the day. The energetic duo decided to climb the steep gully straightaway, while we sauntered more leisurely along the road. I knew they would be gone for a few hours, so had ample time to loiter without intent. The first thing I noticed was how the numbers of Crested Finchbill and Grey Sibias had declined, since we were here in January. Presumably they had paired up and fled higher to cooler climes where they could bring up their young in more comfortable surroundings. A few still lingered but they were uncommon. We walked along, finding that bird densities were lowers than the last time but I knew that would happen since the migrants had left. I managed to see a Yellow-rumped Honeyguide on a cluster of newly erupted honeycombs. Both Mrs Gould’s and Fire-tailed Sunbirds made swift appearances. Greyhooded Warblers were much in evidence. Cuckoos – European, Indian, Oriental and Lesser – called from everywhere, the loudest being the Large Hawk Cuckoo. The Great Barbet tried it best to keep up in the cacophony. A large flock of Nepal House Martins circled the skies in the company of Himalayan Swiftlets. We walked up and down the stretch a few more times waiting for twosome to return. Hours passed but there was no sign of the duo and I started getting worried. We ate our breakfast watching the resident Long-tailed Shrike (tricolor). The familiar sound of a pair of the recently split Spot-breasted Scimitar Babblers made me dart out to the adjoining foliage and for the first time in my life, I managed a satisfactory look of this great skulker. My good fortune continued, as a singing Naga Wren-babbler drew my attention and I spent a fascinating few minutes seeing this Nagaland specialty in full song. Great relief for I had refused to be coaxed by my younger colleagues to join them in their heroic activity of scaling the mountain in orders to see this bird.

Long-tailed (Naga) wren Babbler, Khonoma It was almost lunchtime when they returned having managed to photograph the Naga Wren-babbler as well as its cousin the Pygmy. Other birds they saw and photographed included the Rusty-capped Fulvetta, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Striated LT, Red-cheeked Liocichla, SlatyBlue (cerviniventris ssp. with rich buff underparts) and Snowy-throated Flycatchers. Perhaps the most important bird they photographed and one that had them puzzled a great deal was a seicercus warbler with a broken eye-ring and a grey head, which does not match any of the illustrations and descriptions in the current guidebooks. As I write, intensive detective work is underway and the results should be declared soon. (Since identified as Grey-crowned Warbler Seicercus tephrocephalus -Ed.)

Grey-crowned Warbler, 1st image from India They however missed the shortwing and managed only to elicit a weak response from the Cachar Wedgebilled Babbler. Much to their disappointment they missed the Brown-capped as well as the Striped Laughingthrushes. Back in the warm confines of Khrieni & Gonguii Meru home-stay, we dined royally on a meal cooked by Bano and went to bed early. The plot was to do a quick trip to the coppiced forests just above Khonoma to see if we could find the Lesser Shortwing that Shashank had heard singing, earlier in the day. Finding a suitable spot, Shashank played the tape and a Lesser Shortwing went berserk circling us and posing briefly, but allowing enough time to let Ramki practice his art. The Lesser Shortwing of the NE carolinae has dark brown upperparts and I was very thrilled with my lifer. We also saw Dark-sided and Ferruginous Flycatchers, but yet again the Black-breasted Thrushes evaded Ramki. 36

Jalukie (Dhulekie) area in the rainy season We decided to move location to Benreu from where we had received several reports of Dark-rumped Swifts breeding in the village. What we thought would be a three-hour journey stretched into almost six hours, over bad roads, and it was dark by the time we drove into Benreu. The journey itself was though the immense and awe-inspiring forests of Dhulekie valley, but largely uneventful, bar a small nightjar, which we failed to identify, and a single Blue-winged LT. The only true excitement being when our car flushed a large crake or rail-like bird with dark dangling legs. It was not a Black-tailed Crake for sure, but what else could it be at this height? Another mystery. Next morning the young duo came back from an early morning jaunt with a picture of a Forktail. The spots were visible but it had no white on its crown. Perhaps a juvenile turning into an adult? In the meanwhile Bano had gathered a huge number of local residents and we showed them photographs of the Dark-rumped Swifts, but they were unaware of its existence.

Benreu area We then trooped into the village square below which the rarest of swifts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Dark-rumped â&#x20AC;&#x201C; purportedly breed. We peeked into an old thatched house (whose dark interiors housed several skulls and bones of unidentifiable birds and animals) and saw several birds swooping under its eaves. We watched these birds for several hours and ALL of them turned out to be Himalayan Swiftlets. This prompted two opinions, the first of which was that perhaps the Dark-rumped had breed and left and the second being that the said swifts were misidentified. We would like future and past birders who have been to Benreu to share their thoughts with us. Disappointed we decided to wend our way back to Khonoma, where Mohit awaited us. The journey back was much quicker as there were few birds to stop for.

The next day would be our last together and Ramki and Shashank would head to the Mt. Saramati region, while the three of us would make a brief foray to Tuophema, before heading back home. All along Ramki was fidgeting and complaining that he had not been able to photograph the Mountain Bamboo Partridge, the Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler and the Black-breasted Thrush. So early morning saw them disappear with determined looks and it was great relief all-round when they declared that they had achieved their goal and more. They also saw the Striped LT. Bidding goodbye to the charming Merus we drove on to Kohima where we would part ways. What happened subsequently to the twosome can be read here. Leaving Shashank and Ramki in the comfort of Kohimaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Heritage Hotel, Bano, Mohit and I left for Tuopema Village, which has the distinction of producing Nagalandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s incumbent Chief Minister N. Rio. It was truly charming place with very comfortable rooms and great food. The local women danced and sang for us and we took lots of pictures. Next morning we left early, as we wanted to explore some of the lowlands around Dimapur, before catching our flight. We veered off the main highway and entered the Seithekiema area, near the airport, and added many common lowland birds to our checklist. The area resembled parts of neighbouring Assam, and there was no evidence of hunting and so the birds were not shy. So ended our third trip to the most fascinating of states. We made several friends over our three trips, received nothing but kindness from everyone. Saw birds that are almost mythical and had a truly lifeenriching experience. We are all aware that Nagaland is beset with many problems. Hunting and Jhum leading the list, but the areas which are protected, have some of the finest birding I have experienced in forty years of wandering in strange and faraway lands. The forest department is seized of the problem and is genuinely trying to improve matters. I understand that it is soon going to be mandatory for every village to declare a minimum of ten hectares as protected area. If this is done it will be a major achievement. We wish the Government more power and greater strength to their arms.

Birding in Nagaland: Part IV Nagaland Trip Mt. Saramati and Fakim Wildlife Sanctuary Text: Ramki Sreenivasan & Shashank Dalvi Images: Ramki Sreenivasan 18May - 22May, 2010

Pungro, Nagaland

Shashank and I had a tentative plan to travel on to Mizoram (Murlen and/or Phangwphui) following the completion of our Nagaland trip. Fortunately or otherwise, it didn’t quite work out due to logistical and other reasons and we decided to explore some other unseen (by us) part of Nagaland, as we were already in situ. A region that immediately sprang to mind was Mt. Saramati (3,821m) situated at the eastern edge of the state, where the verdant Naga Hills merge with the Patkai Hills of neighbouring Myanmar. Furthermore, these parts had been poorly, if ever, birded making it a likely location for longunseen specialties – and we had specific laughingthrushes in mind. We presumed that Fakim Wildlife Sanctuary (listed as an Important Bird Area) and which lay just north of Mt. Saramati would potentially be less plagued with hunting pressures as it is supposed to be a Protected Area – though such logic usually doesn’t prevail in Nagaland. We discussed these plans with Bano and soon, after a flurry of calls, she had the whole trip organised. I wish we had someone like 39

Bano in all these difficult-to-access northeastern Indian states! So, as soon as the other members of the current team – Bikram, Bano and Mohit left, we took off into the unknown.

It was extremely depressing and sad to observe such rampant killing (especially as we travelled further from Kohima) and the indiscriminate and absolutely conscience-less jhum cultivation across the entire stretch. The only consolation was that hunting didn’t seem to be commercial (unlike in Dimapur, Kohima, Peren areas), as we didn’t see any evidence of bush meat being sold in local village markets. Entire hill slopes looked naked, freshly stripped and a bustling timber trade was evident in every village and settlement. These were scenes straight out of Brazil or Indonesia – irreversible and mindless destruction of primary evergreen jungle by slash-and-burn – the single biggest cause of global warming. The other consequences too were obvious –soil erosion, landslides, acute water scarcity (in summer, a bucket of non-potable water in Kohima costs Rs. 20) and the complete extermination of local wildlife. We are guilty of even to bring to notice the following exciting sightings to the birding community, fully aware that they have a limited timeframe before they disappear forever.

Bustling timber trade was evident in every village 40

The closest village to access both Mt. Saramati and Fakim WLS is Pungro – a beautiful hamlet perched on top of a hill, a full 12-13 hr drive from Kohima (c. 300km). This Kohima-Pungro drive is the ‘hilliest’ I have done in my life and we constantly climbed and descended one hill after another for the entire day, with never more than a 50m straight-stretch. The driver of our Scorpio – Sahil – who had been pulled down from faraway Dibrugarh in Assam for this special operation, demonstrated some fantastic mountain driving skills. By the end of the day as we were pulling into Kiphere, the district headquarters to make final enquiries and arrangements, our stomachs churned like washing machines!

Roadside stall, Kiphire Outside of meal halts in this marathon drive, we made only one birding stop – with no more reason than to get off the car in pure boredom – but were soon rewarded with two fantastic sightings. The first was of the seldom seen Burmese Shrike, so far recorded in the country only as a rare winter visitor, and a few Striated Prinias in full song and disproportionately long tails, even by breeding-prinia standards. Thrilled with these birds and their images, we went back to the car and drifted into fitful sleep.

Burmese Shrike The route traversed almost half the entire length of the state, crossing the towns of Pfutsero, Longmatra, Meluri and Kiphere as well as Jesami (Losami) in Manipur, which had a delightful bustling market that offered Chinese-made essentials like army hats, clothing, knives, lanterns and, of course, dried barking deer meat, sold under a ‘no hunting’ signboard!

We reached Pungro town (25°48’38”N; 94°50’44”E) as the sun was going down behind the seemingly unending Naga Hills. A lot of village elders had to be met (and many hands shaken) before a very fancy government ‘guest house’ was opened up for us. No one really knew which ‘department’ operated this and who we had to pay for it but it did have a fulltime caretaker who could also cook – what more could we ask for!

Pungro town We had two full days of birding ahead and on the first day we decided to visit Fakim WLS for reasons mentioned at the outset. A two-hour and 26 km pre-dawn drive brought us to Fakim village (25°52’47”N; 94°59’5”E) (via Lithur & Pinkim) – the trailhead to the sanctuary accessible now onwards only by foot. Leaving the car, we soon started the extremely precipitous climb and after a few kilometers were in superb cloud forest (so reminiscent of Bompu in Eaglenest, Arunachal).

Fakim area We soon got Large Niltava, Aberrant Bush-warbler, Bay Woodpecker, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Crested Goshawk, Rusty-capped and Rufous-winged Fulvettas, Maroon Oriole, Ferruginous and Slatyblue (rufous-bellied ssp.) Flycatchers, Pygmy and (the, by now, ubiquitous) Naga Wren-babbler. Just as we were walking away from superb views of the latter, the skies opened and we had to make a desperate scramble down the hill that was quickly turning into thick viscous gravy. Luckily before the rain turned profound, we reached our car. Post a quick lunch in the village we left for Pungro. Luckily the weather turned around. The sun made a brief comeback and, in this surreal setting, we found pair of singing Spot-breasted Parrotbills flitting around in the grassy slopes just below Pinkim. It was gratifying to note the multiple locations of this rarity, after our group first reported it from Nagaland (near Benreu) in January of 2010. 42

Spot-breasted Parrotbill, Pinkim On day two, Shashank came up with a counter-intuitive strategy of not trying to access the hard-toreach slopes of Mt. Saramati, beyond Thanamir village (of which we had little information, especially on habitat and hunting) but to explore the degraded hill slopes next to Pungro town to attempt to find ‘new’ and exotic laughingthrushes. In retrospect, this was a brilliant decision, for in less than an hour of morning birding we had seen two very special laughers – Ashy (or Moustached) and Spot-breasted – both with patchy sighting records from India and SE Asia. What was interesting about the Ashy was its atypical laughingthrush behavior as it preferred pine branches in addition to the usual thick undergrowth in the degraded hills. We had three sightings on this bird hopping and feeding in conifer branches that was at eye-level to us on the road.

Moustached (Ashy) Laughingthrush, Pungro To see the bird multiple times out in the open was surprising given the number of guns we found going around in the outskirts of Pungro. Shashank was shocked out of his wits when he heard a gunshot that attempted to kill the very bird whose song he was recording. Luckily, the bird survived but only to sit on another exposed perch. The future of this species, with its suicidal tendency, seems grim. The Spotbreasted LT on the other hand behaved like a true laugher and more than made up for its brave and reckless cousin. It offered exactly three views in over an hour of crawling in thick & damp leech-ridden undergrowth. We also got many many Striated Prinias as well as an unexpected skulking Spot-throated Babbler in full song. At some point Shasank thought that he had had a brief look at a White-browed Laughingthrush, but as the bird did not reveal itself again, we thought we best left it as unconfirmed. Another interesting sighting was of a displaying Lesser Coucal. Usually this bird is found at altitudes below 900m, but as we were above 1500m we were a little surprised. 43

Rain again hampered birding though we were happy to return to camp to witness an absolutely dramatic sunset – a daily feature in our three-day stay at Pungro. Day three was the full-day drive back to Kohima from Pungro and we prepared ourselves for the ordeal with fully charged iPods and laptops. We got more views of the Ashy LT outside town as well as a lone Slender-billed Oriole foraging the pines and then departed Pungro at sunrise. Just below Chomi village (25°51’56”N; 94°50’7”E), about 17km after Pungro, where spears replaced guns for some reason, we stopped to try and photograph some Striated Swallows.

Spears replace guns Giving up this exercise soon, I started clicking away at what appeared to be a flock of Silver-eared Mesias going up a bush not far from the road. Shashank was uncharacteristically speechless and then asked rather sarcastically whether I was photographing the Yellow-throated Laughingthrushes he was watching through his binoculars. Adrenaline shot through both of us as they were indeed the nominate race of the Yellow-throated Laughingthrushes – a bird never photographed before in India. We were absolutely thrilled and I quickly checked to confirm if I had got good enough images of this near mythical bird. A review of the photographs now reveal some variation from the illustrations in guidebooks – for these birds seemed to have a blue patch behind the eye and a striking white vent (the books mention yellow).

Yellow-throated Laughingthrush 44

Other birds we found on the otherwise uneventful drive back were Rufous-necked and Greaternecklaced Laughingthrushes, Chestnut-tailed Starlings, Collared Treepie and Long-tailed Broadbills.

Unsustainable jum cultivation around Pungro It is indeed ironic that the ‘dense’ Nagaland jungle contains precious little (the classic ‘northeast empty forest syndrome’), while the degraded habitat holds some of the world’s most exciting birds. These sightings can at best be only temporary – jhum and hunting will eventually exterminate them along with everything else. The unsustainability of jhum and hunting is so obvious and the state needs to immediately create inviolate spaces (like Khonoma and Dziilekie valley) where this rampant destruction is stopped entirely and immediately, before every hill and every valley turns silent.

Complete List of birds seen (and heard) over three trips in Nagaland January-May 2010 Photographs by Sumit K Sen and Ramki Sreenivasan Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola Rufous-throated Hill Partridge Arborophila rufogularis White-cheeked Partridge Arborophila atrogularis

Mountain Bamboo Partridge Bambusicola fytchii Kalij (Khaleej) Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos Grey Peacock Pheasant Polyplectron bicalcaratum

Yellow-rumped Honeyguide Indicator xanthonotus 46

Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus Great Barbet Megalaima virens Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii

Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala Common Hoopoe Upupa epops Indian (Black-billed) Roller Coracias benghalensis (affinis) Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni (Little) Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus

Large Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx (Cuculus) sparverioides Common Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx (Cuculus) varius Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus 47

Eurasian (Common) Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus Lesser (Small) Cuckoo Cuculus poliocephalus Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis Blossom (Rosy)-headed Parakeet Psittacula roseata Himalayan Swiftlet Collocalia (Aerodramus) brevirostris Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis Fork-tailed (Pacific) Swift Apus pacificus House (Little) Swift Apus affinis Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides Great-Eared Nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis Grey Nightjar Caprimulgus Indicus (jotaka) Speckled Wood Pigeon Columba hodgsoni Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Barred Cuckoo Dove Macropygia unchall Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicintus Pompadour (Ashy-headed) Green Pigeon Treron pompadora Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus

Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenura Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis Ptilorhyncus Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus 48

Shikra Accipiter badius Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis

Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis Common (Himalayan) Buzzard Buteo buteo (burmanicus) Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Little Egret Egretta garzetta Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis (coromandus) Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus* Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Little (Striated) Heron Butorides striatus Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae Asian Fairy Bluebird Irene puella Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis Golden (Gold)-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus

Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda Collared Treepie Dendrocitta frontalisÂ

Large-billed (Eastern Jungle) Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus Slender-billed Oriole Oriolus tenuirostris Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus traillii Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosis Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus Hair-crested (Spangled) Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus Black-naped (Blue) Monarch Hypothymis azurea Asian Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola rufiventris Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus

Black-breasted Thrush Turdus dissimilis Grey-sided Thrush Turdus feae

Chestnut Thrush Turdus rubrocanus* Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus

Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys 51

Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapa sibirica

Ferruginous Flycatcher Muscicapa ferruginea Rufous (Orange)-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata Red-breasted (-throated) Flycatcher Ficedula parva White-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula monileger Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina

Large Niltava Niltava grandis Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara

Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor Pygmy Blue Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope Indian Blue Robin Luscinia brunnea Orange-flanked (Himalayan Red-) Bush Robin Tarsiger cyanurus Golden Bush Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Daurian Redstart Phoenicurus auroreus White-capped Water Redstart (River Chat) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus White-tailed (Blue) Robin Myiomela leucura Black-backed Forktail Enicurus immaculatus Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus Purple Cochoa Cochoa purpurea Siberian (Common) Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea Spot-winged Starling Saroglossa spiloptera Chestnut-tailed (Grey-headed) Starling Sturnus malabarica Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa Chestnut-vented Nuthatch Sitta nagaensis White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis Brown-throated Treecreeper Certhia discolor Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus Yellow-cheeked (Black-spotted) Tit Parus spilonotus Black-(headed) throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 53

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica

Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalensis

Crested Finchbill Spizixos canifrons Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer

Flavescent Bulbul Pycnonotus flavescens Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala Mountain Bulbul Hypsipetes (Ixos) mcclellandii (Himalayan) Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus Striated Prinia Prinia criniger

Hill Prinia Prinia atrogularis

Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens 55

Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata

Grey-bellied (Yellow-browed) Tesia Tesia cyaniventer Brownish-flanked (Strong-footed) Bush Warbler Cettia fortipes

Aberrant Bush Warbler Cettia flavoclivacea Russet Bush Warbler Bradypterus mandelli Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius

Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus subaffinis* Ashy-throated (Grey-faced) Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus Hume’s Warbler Phylloscopus humei Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus Blyth’s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides Tickell’s Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus affinis Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos Whistler’s Warbler Seicercus whistleri Grey-crowned Warbler Seicercus tephrocephalus Grey-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax pectoralis Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus Rufous-necked Laughingthrush Garrulax rufocolis

Yellow-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax galbanus

Grey-sided Laughingthrush Garrulax (Dryonastes) caerulatus White-browed Laughingthrush Garrulax (Dryonastes) sannio

Spot-breasted Laughingthrush Garrulax (Stactocichla) merulina Moustached (Ashy) Laughingthrush Garrulax (Ianthocincla) cineraceus Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush Garrulax (Ianthocincla) rufogularis

Brown-capped Laughingthrush Garrulax (Ianthocincla) austeni

Striped Laughingthrush Garrulax (Trochalopteron) virgatum 58

Blue-winged Laughingthrush Garrulax (Trochalopteron) squamatus Chestnut-crowned (Assam) Laughingthrush Garrulax (Trochalopteron chrysopterum) erythrocephalus

Red-faced Liocichla Liocichla phoenicea Abbottâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Babbler Malacocincla abbotti Spot-throated Babbler Pellorneum albiventre Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrocnemis White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer Pygmy Wren Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla Spotted Wren Babbler Spelaeornis formosus

Long-tailed (Naga) Wren Babbler Spelaeornis chocolatinus

(Cachar) Wedge-billed Wren Babbler Sphenocichla longicaudatus (roberti) Rufous-fronted Babbler Stachyris rufifrons Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps Striped Tit Babbler Macronous gularis

Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea White-browed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni

Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera Chestnut-tailed (Bar-throated) Minla Minla strigula Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps White-browed Fulvetta Alcippe vinipectus

Rusty-capped Fulvetta Alcippe dubia Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe nipalensis

Grey Sibia Heterophasia gracilis

Striated Yuhina Yuhina castaniceps Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis

Spot-breasted Parrotbill Paradoxornis guttaticollis 62

Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis ruficeps Bengal Bushlark Mirafra assamica Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma

Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum Purple Sunbird Nectarinia (Cinnyris) asiaticus

Mrs Gouldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna House Sparrow Passer domesticus Russet (Cinnamon) Sparrow Passer rutilans Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus White Wagtail Motacilla alba Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus 63

Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata Yellow-breasted (Himalayan) Greenfinch Carduelis spinoides Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla

Common Kingfisher

Nagaland  Checklist of Birds Compiled by Bikram Grewal

Nagaland, has been poorly birded in the past and has never got the attention it deserves, unlike other parts of Northeast India. The earlier reports were from Godwin-Austen (1872-1878) but they covered the general area rather than Nagaland specifically. Coltart made some more observations in 1902. Baker sent in many reports but mostly on other’s hearsay and therefore many have been disregarded. Other contributors include Hutchinson (1946), Stoner (1947) and Alexander (1974). However there were two major collecting expeditions, one by Dr SD Dillon Ripley and the other By Koelz, both in the early 1950s and both have made great contributions to our knowledge of the birdlife of Nagaland. In more recent years Dr Anwaruddin Choudhoury has made several trips and greatly added to the present literature. This is still a ‘work in progress’ and is likely to remain so for several years. The editors will be happy to receive, corrections, omissions and additions to the list. Please send in your comments to B. Grewal. Notes:  1. Names in brackets are as per P. Rasmussen in Birds of South Asia 2. Names in brackets in red should be read in conjunction. Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus Blue-breasted Quail Coturnix chinensis Manipur Bush Quail Perdicula manipurensis Yellow-legged Buttonquail Turnix tanki (Common) Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola 65

Rufous-throated Hill Partridge Arborophila rufogularis White-cheeked (Hill) Partridge Arborophila atrogularis Mountain Bamboo Partridge Bambusicola fytchii Blythâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tragopan Tragopan blythii Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus Kalij (Khaleej) Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos Mrs. Humeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pheasant Syrmaticus humiae Grey Peacock Pheasant Polyplectron bicalcaratum Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanica Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea White-winged Duck Cairina (Asarcornis) scutulata Cotton Pygmy-goose (Teal) Nettapus coromandelianus Yellow-rumped Honeyguide Indicator xanthonotus Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea Rufous Woodpecker Celeus (Micropternus) brachyurus Pale-headed Woodpecker Gecinulus grantia Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos macei Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos (Hypopicus) hyperythrus Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos cathpharius Darjeeling Woodpecker Dendrocopos darjellensis Lesser Yellownape Picus chloropus Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus Grey-headed (-faced) Woodpecker Picus canus (chloropus) Himalayan Flameback Dinopium shorii Common Flameback Dinopium javanense Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus Great Barbet Megalaima virens Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis Brown (White-throated) Hornbill Anorrhinus (Ptilolaemus) tickelli Rufous-necked Hornbill Aceros nipalensis Wreathed Hornbill Aceros undulatus Common Hoopoe Upupa epops Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus Indian (Black-billed) Roller Coracias benghalensis (affinis) Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis 66

Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting (Black-backed) Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx erythaca Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon (Pelargopsis) capensis Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Black-capped Kingfisher Halcyon pileata (Lesser) Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Crested (Himalayan Pied) Kingfisher Megaceryle (Ceryle) lugubris Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni (Little) Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti Pied (Jacobin) Cuckoo Clamator jacobinus Chestnut-winged Cuckoo Clamator coromandus Large Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx (Cuculus) sparverioides Common Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx (Cuculus) varius Hodgsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (Whistling) Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx (nisicolor) fugax Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus Eurasian (Common) Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus Lesser (Small) Cuckoo Cuculus poliocephalus Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus Asian Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx maculatus Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri Grey-headed (Finschâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) Parakeet Psittacula finschii Blossom (Rosy)-headed Parakeet Psittacula roseata Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri Himalayan Swiftlet Collocalia (Aerodramus) brevirostris Silver-backed Needletail Hirundapus cochinchinensis Brown- throated (backed) Needletail Hirundapus giganteus Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis Fork-tailed (Pacific) Swift Apus pacificus Dark-rumped Swift Apus acuticauda House (Little) Swift Apus affinis (Common) Barn Owl Tyto Alba (Eastern) Grass Owl Tyto capensis Oriental Bay Owl Phodilus badius Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus 67

Oriental Scops Owl Otus sunia Collared Scops Owl Otus lettia Rock (Indian) Eagle Owl Bubo bengalensis Spot-bellied Eagle Owl Bubo nipalensis Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis Tawny Fish Owl Ketupa flavipes Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica Tawny (Himalayan-wood) Owl Strix aluco (nivicola) Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides Spotted Owlet Athene brama Brown Hawk Owl Ninox scutulata Hodgson’s Frogmouth Batrachostomus hodgsoni Great-Eared Nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis Grey Nightjar Caprimulgus Indicus (jotaka) Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus Speckled Wood Pigeon Columba hodgsoni Ashy Wood Pigeon Columba pulchricollis Pale-capped Pigeon Columba punicea Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Barred Cuckoo Dove Macropygia unchall Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicintus Pompadour (Ashy-headed) Green Pigeon Treron pompadora (phayrei) Thick-billed Green Pigeon Treron curvirostra Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus Pin-tailed Green Pigeon Treron apicauda Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenura Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia Slaty-legged Crake Rallina eurizonoides Black-tailed Crake Porzana bicolor White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Purple Swamphen Porphyrio poliocephalus Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola Wood Snipe Gallinago nemoricola Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura Swinhoe’s Snipe Gallinago megala Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Osprey Pandion haliaetus 68

Jerdonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Baza Aviceda jerdoni Black Baza Aviceda leuphotes Oriental Honey-buzzard Pernis Ptilorhyncus Black-shouldered (-winged) Kite Elanus caeruleus Black (Pariah) Kite Milvus migrans Pallasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fish Eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus Lesser Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis White-rumped Vulture Gyps bengalensis Slender-billed Vulture Gyps tenuirostris Himalayan Griffon (Vulture) Gyps himalayensis Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps (Aegypius) calvus Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus Shikra Accipiter badius Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis Changeable Hawk Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus (limnaeetus) Common (Himalayan) Buzzard Buteo buteo (burmanicus) Pied Falconet Microhierax melanoleucos Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera Amur Falcon Falco amurensis Oriental Hobby Falco severus Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus (Oriental) Darter Anhinga melanogaster Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger Indian (Shag) Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis Little Egret Egretta garzetta White-bellied Heron Ardea insignis Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx (Egretta) intermedia (Eastern) Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis (coromandus) Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus* Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii Little (Striated) Heron Butorides striatus Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Malayan Night Heron Gorsachius melanolophus Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans Blue-naped Pitta Pitta nipalensis Hooded Pitta Pitta sordida Silver-breasted Broadbill Serilophus lunatus Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae 69

Asian Fairy Bluebird Irene puella Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis Golden (Gold)-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda Collared Treepie Dendrocitta frontalis Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae House Crow Corvus splendens Large-billed (Eastern Jungle) Crow Corvus macrorhynchos (levaillantii) Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis Slender-billed Oriole Oriolus tenuirostris Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus traillii Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos Rosy Minivet Pericrocotus roseus Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosis Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus Crow-billed Drongo Dicrurus annectans Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer Hair-crested (Spangled) Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus Black-naped (Blue) Monarch Hypothymis azurea Asian Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii Blue-capped (-headed) Rock Thrush Monticola cinclorhynchus Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola rufiventris Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius 70

Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus Long-tailed Thrush Zoothera dixoni Long-billed (Ground-) Thrush Zoothera monticola* Scaly (Small-billed) Thrush Zoothera dauma Dark-sided (Ground-) Thrush Zoothera marginata Plain-backed Thrush Zoothera mollissima Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul Black-breasted Thrush Turdus dissimilis Grey-sided Thrush Turdus feae Chestnut Thrush Turdus rubrocanus* Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus Dark (Black)-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis (atrogularis) White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys Gouldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Shortwing Brachypteryx (Hetroxenicus) stellatus* Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapa sibirica Ferruginous Flycatcher Muscicapa ferruginea Slaty-backed Flycatcher Ficedula hodgsoni Rufous (Orange)-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata Red-breasted (-throated) Flycatcher Ficedula parva (albicilla) White-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula monileger Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor Sapphire Flycatcher Ficedula sapphira Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina Large Niltava Niltava grandis Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara Vivid Niltava Niltava vivida (oatesi) Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae Pale-chinned Flycatcher Cyornis poliogenys Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor Blue-throated Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides Hill Blue Flycatcher Cyornis banyumas Pygmy Blue Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope Himalayan Rubythroat Luscinia pectoralis Bluethroat Luscinia svecica Indian Blue Robin Luscinia brunnea Orange-flanked (Himalayan Red-) Bush Robin Tarsiger cyanurus (rufilatus) Golden Bush Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus White-browed Bush Robin Tarsiger indicus Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros 71

Hodgsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni Daurian Redstart Phoenicurus auroreus Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis White-capped Water Redstart (River Chat) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus White-tailed (Blue) Robin Myiomela leucura Blue-fronted (Blue) Robin Cinclidium frontale Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri Black-backed Forktail Enicurus immaculatus Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus White-crowned Forktail Enicurus leschenaulti Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus Purple Cochoa Cochoa purpurea Green Cochoa Cochoa viridis Siberian (Common) Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea Spot-winged Starling Saroglossa spiloptera Asian Pied Starling Sturnus (Gracupica) contra Chestnut-tailed (Grey-headed) Starling Sturnus malabarica Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus White-Vented Myna Acridotheres cinereus (grandis) Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa Chestnut-vented Nuthatch Sitta nagaensis Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea (cinnamoventris) White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis Beautiful Nuthatch Sitta formosa Brown-throated Treecreeper Certhia discolor Great Tit Parus major Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus Yellow-cheeked (Black-spotted) Tit Parus spilonotus Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea Black-(headed) throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus (Common) Sand Martin Riparia riparia Plain Martin (Grey-throated) Riparia paludicola (chinensis) Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalensis Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus Crested Finchbill Spizixos canifrons Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps 72

Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus (flaviventris) Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer Flavescent Bulbul Pycnonotus flavescens White-throated Bulbul Alophoixus flaveolus Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala Mountain Bulbul Hypsipetes (Ixos) mcclellandii (Himalayan) Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus Striated Prinia Prinia criniger Hill Prinia Prinia atrogularis Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea Grey-bellied (Yellow-browed) Tesia Tesia cyaniventer Brownish-flanked (Strong-footed) Bush Warbler Cettia fortipes Chestnut-crowned Bush Warbler Cettia major Aberrant Bush Warbler Cettia flavoclivacea Pale-footed Bush Warbler Cettia pallidipes Brown Bush Warbler Bradypterus luteoventris Russet Bush Warbler Bradypterus mandelli Blunt-winged Warbler Acrocephalus concinens Thick-billed Warbler Acrocephalus aedon Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus subaffinis* Ashy-throated (Grey-faced) Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis Lemon-rumped Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus Hume’s Warbler Phylloscopus humei [Mandelli’s Warbler P. mandellii ] Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus Blyth’s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides Yellow-vented Warbler Phylloscopus canator Tickell’s Leaf-warbler Phylloscopus affinis Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos Whistler’s Warbler Seicercus whistleri Grey-crowned Warbler Seicercus tephrocephalus White-spectacled Warbler Seicercus affinis Grey-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps Rufous-faced Warbler Abroscopus albogularis 73

Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris Broad-billed Warbler Tickellia hodgsoni Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax monileger Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax pectoralis Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus Rufous-necked Laughingthrush Garrulax (Dryonastes) rufocolis Chestnut-backed Laughingthrush Garrulax (Dryonastes) nuchalis Yellow-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax (Dryonastes) galbanus Rufous-vented Laughingthrush Garrulax (Dryonastes) gularis Grey-sided Laughingthrush Garrulax (Dryonastes) caerulatus White-browed Laughingthrush Garrulax (Dryonastes) sannio Spot-breasted Laughingthrush Garrulax (Stactocichla) merulina Moustached (Ashy) Laughingthrush Garrulax (Ianthocincla) cineraceus Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush Garrulax (Ianthocincla) rufogularis Brown-capped Laughingthrush Garrulax (Ianthocincla) austeni Striped Laughingthrush Garrulax (Trochalopteron) virgatum Blue-winged Laughingthrush Garrulax (Trochalopteron) squamatus Chestnut-crowned (Assam) Laughingthrush Garrulax (Trochalopteron chrysopterum) erythrocephalus Red-faced Liocichla Liocichla phoenicea Abbottâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Babbler Malacocincla abbotti Spot-throated Babbler Pellorneum albiventre Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps Large Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus hupoleucos Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrocnemis White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis Red (Long)-billed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ochraceiceps Coral-billed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ferruginosus Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler Xiphirhynchus superciliaris Eyebrowed Wren Babbler Napothera epilepidota Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer Pygmy Wren Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla Spotted Wren Babbler Spelaeornis formosus Long-tailed (Naga) Wren Babbler Spelaeornis chocolatinus (Cachar) Wedge-billed Wren Babbler Sphenocichla longicaudatus (roberti) Rufous-fronted Babbler Stachyris rufifrons Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps Striped Tit Babbler Macronous gularis Chestnut-capped Babbler Timalia pileata Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea White-hooded Babbler Gampsorhynchus rufulus 74

Cutia Cutia nipalensis Black-headed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius rufiventer White-browed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis Green Shrike Babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus Black-eared Shrike Babbler Pteruthius melanotis Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni Streak-throated Barwing Actinodura waldeni Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera Chestnut-tailed (Bar-throated) Minla Minla strigula Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippe chrysotis Yellow-throated Fulvetta Alcippe cinerea Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps White-browed Fulvetta Alcippe vinipectus Streak-throated (Manipur) Fulvetta Alcippe cinereiceps Rufous-throated Fulvetta Alcippe rufogularis Rusty-capped Fulvetta Alcippe dubia Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe nipalensis Rufous-backed Sibia Heterophasia annectans Grey Sibia Heterophasia gracilis Beautiful Sibia Heterophasia pulchella Striated Yuhina Yuhina castaniceps Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta White-belled Yuhina (Erpornis) Yuhina (Erpornis) zantholeuca Grey-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis gularis Spot-breasted Parrotbill Paradoxornis guttaticollis Black-throated Parrotbill Paradoxornis nipalensis Lesser Rufous-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis atrosuperciliaris Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis ruficeps Bengal Bushlark Mirafra assamica Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile Yellow-vented Flowerpecker Dicaeum chrysorrheum Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum melanoxantham Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma* Plain Flowerpecker Dicaeum concolor (minullum) Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Anthreptes (Chalcoparia) singalensis Purple Sunbird Nectarinia (Cinnyris) asiaticus Mrs Gouldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja 75

Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna House Sparrow Passer domesticus Russet (Cinnamon) Sparrow Passer rutilans Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus White Wagtail Motacilla alba Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola (Western) Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata Black-headed Munia Lonchura malacca (atricapilla) Yellow-breasted (Himalayan) Greenfinch Carduelis spinoides Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus Crimson-browed Finch Propyrrhula subhimachala Scarlet Finch Haematospiza sipahi Brown Bullfinch Pyrrhula nipalensis Spot-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas melanozanthos Crested Bunting Melophus lathami Chestnut-eared Bunting Emberiza fucata Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla Chestnut Bunting Emberiza rutila Black-faced Bunting Emberiza spodocephala

Birds listed for Nagaland but no authentic records traced:   Small Buttonquail Turnix sylvatica  Chestnut-breasted Partridge Arborophila mandellii   Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major  Grey-bellied Cuckoo Cacomantis passerinus  Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva  Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius River Tern Sterna aurantia  White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus Pied Thrush Zoothera wardii  Dusky Thrush Turdus naumanni  Rusty-bellied Shortwing Brachypteryx hyperythra  White-tailed Flycatcher Cyornis concretus Rusty-flanked Treecreeper Certhia nipalensis  Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris  Rufous-vented Tit Parus rubidiventris  Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola  76

Tawny-breasted Wren Babbler Spelaeornis longicaudatus  Jerdon’s Babbler Chrysomma altirostre Long-tailed Sibia Heterophasia picaoides  White-naped Yuhina Yuhina bakeri

References:  Ali, S & Ripley, SD: Handbook of the Birds of India and Pakistan 1968  Choudhury A:  Some Bird records from Nagaland Forktail 17 2001 Some additions to the birds of Nagaland Forktail 19 2003  Significant Records of Birds in Nagaland Forktail 21 2005 Pocket Guide Birds of Nagaland Gibbon Books Grimmett & Inskipp: Birds of the Indian Subcontinent 1998  Rassmussen. P: Birds of South Asia: The Ripley Guide 2005  Ripley, Dr SD: A collection of Birds from the Naga Hills JBHNS 1952

Trip reports:  Bray, Nick (Birdseekers): Nagaland and Eaglenest; January 2007 Eaton, James (Birdtours Asia) March/April 2007  Gerry Westdean (Travellingbirder) Jan 2007 Lobo. P (Birdingindiatour) December 2005  Grewal, B & Sen, S (Kolkatabirds) January- May 2010 © Bikram Grewal 2010

Black-naped Monarch 77