Sri Lanka : a journey with the monsoon ramya reddy
December 2010
Not very far from us in India, but Sri Lanka gave me the feeling of being in some place faraway, lush and mystical. Throw in the sun, sand, culinary adventures and warm cheery locals and you have a journey that can feed the soul. Despite the healing scars from the long drawn political turmoil, to a yearning traveler, getting to know Sri Lanka can be a truly intimate and fufilling experience. Sri Lanka’s compactness magnifies the island’s natural blessings. Just as you are absorbing an awe inspiring sight, the next happens in a quick succession and so on. Mountains, jungles and sea exist like the branches of a great old tree hiding between them the extraordinary relics and secrets of lost civilizations. And when the rains of the tropics descend, the glory of this mix is so pronounced that it is easy to lose yourself in Srilanka’s earthy pleasures. The map that follows illustrates the route and the places that we (yours truly & my husband R.) covered in the two weeks we spent around the island. . . starting out in the Puttalam district (mid northern province) we journeyed over to Anuradhapura & Polonaruwa to indulge my love of history and finally drove south to Galle; all the way up through the Kandian highlands, mountains of Nuwara Eliya, meeting with plains at the abundant paddy fields, forests, villages and pristine coastlines of the southern provinces. My Sri Lanka moodboard.
* Highlighted in yellow
the gorgeous mudhouse Arriving into Anamaduwa from Colombo was especially relieving after a tiring day, perplexingly slow moving traffic and countless encounters with suicidal dogs (dogs on roads is not new to us being from India, but the local dogs in SL take this to a whole new dimension ! ) The rocky landscapes flanked by several irrigation tanks and water bodies were gleaming in the moonlight and already soothing the tired nerves. We were to stay at the exquisite and earthy Mudhouse, the brainchild of our super gracious host Kumar and his partner Tom. Kumar had sent one of his people to lead us to the lovingly nurtured, rightly hidden gem. Tall prairie like grasses parted to reveal a mud road gently lit by oil lamps. Where the road ended, Kumar and his staff were waiting to extend us a warm welcome.
We were given a quick introduction to the place : a beautiful mud cottage, the very romantic private dining area, day lounge by the lake, the open bath - all these, felt so comforting as we took in the warmth of the oil lamps and smells of th earth. All these comprised of our spacious, utterly private sanctuary for the next few days. The premise of The Mudhouse is simple - reconnect with the basics, and do it well. All that you really need for a meaningful travel experience, and serious rest and relaxation is more than provided for - abundant fresh air, smells of the earth, birdsong, cozy huts kept cool by tatched roofs and mud walls, locally sourced and deliciously prepared food, plenty of trails and climbs for exercise and history steeped ancient sites to explore.
View from the Paramakanda cave temple near The Mudhouse.
It’s quite something how quickly the mind opens up to anything so pure. Staying away from the grasp of technology was hardly difficult with the abundant serenity more than making up for the lack of wires, screaming phones and all other madness and geekery. There is a real sense of luxury in this freedom, and a much needed depth in the solitude which happens only when the basics align. Kumar gave us a tour of his sixty acre property, where the Mudhouse sits, flanked by a beautiful lake. One could see how much love and thought had gone into making the place so special - no detail spared to make the rustic stay the most authentic of its kind. Everything required to make the place had been locally sourced and sustained. The staff, every one of them a local, play an integral part and bring an added richness to the experience.
Ancient Buddhist inscriptions inside the main temple.
The history trail that I had mapped out was waiting to be explored. Led by a local, who was among Kumar’s staff at the Mudhouse, we bicycled to the nearby Paramakanda Temple and cave monastery, that dates back to 89-77 BC. The Temple complex contains number of caves and rocks with several intricate ancient inscriptions on the walls and ceilings, mostly depicting scenes from the Jatakas, which are among the earliest of Buddhist literature and concern the previous lives of Buddha.
The monk who showed us around. Paramakanda cave temple.
The temple keys.
Reclining Buddha, Paramakanda Cave temple.
“Nirvana is where there is no birth, no extinction. It is s
categories constructed by the mind, fo
The Lanka
seeing into a state of suchness, absolutely transcending all the or it is the Buddha’s inner consciousness�
avatara Sutra
health and happiness
daybed by the lake
sweet Rohan who made sure we were most comfortable
fresh coconut pancakes
healthy start to each day
rohan fills mud pots with gorgeous water lilies from the lake
milk rice served with fish curry
how we stayed off the beaten track
kumar, our lovely, super gracious host
A short drive 45 minutes, south east of Anamaduwa, is the ancient Sinhalese capital of Yapahuwa. Within the fortress lies the spectacular ornamental stone stairway which climbs with a Mayan like steepness to the (then) palace. At the end of the stairway is the impressive Lion terrace, a doorway that once led into what waas the Temple of the Tooth. The surrounding rocks and the foliage make this magnificient cluster of ruins absolutely mythical.
The trails of the myths and mysteries from history’s pages almost always turn into enitcing winding roads of time travel that I can’t get enough of. So I just let the roads lead . . .
Stone stairway & Lion terrace, Yapahuwa Rock Fortress, Yapahuwa.
Remains of the main temple, Arankele forest monastery.
Next up on our history trail was the mysterious 6th century forest monastery of Arankele that roughly lies midway between Anamaduwa and Anuradhapura. Completely off the beaten track, it seemed a great prospect to explore. Finding the site would have been a real task if not for the precise hand drawn map (see my moodboard on page 3) made for us by Kumar, our host at the Mudhouse. Hidden away by the expansive ancient forests and wild creepers, Arankele forest monastery was actually created to shelter the Buddhist monks who spent their time in meditation. The scattered remains of the meditation sites, the monks’ apartments and stone pillars shrouded by the thick green cover make for an otherworldly experience . . .
Forest pathway, Arankele forest monastery ( L, R)
Dawn, Habarana.
“He who understands the true nature of life is the happiest individual, for he is not upset by the fleeting nature of things. He tries to see things as they are, not as they seem to be.” ~ Piyadassi Thera Habarana, the centrally located town at the heart of the cultural triangle, was our base while we explored this region over the next few days. On the itinerary were the ancient cities of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa, the epic Buddha statues of Aukana and Sasseruwa. Despite the proximity, we chose these over the famed Sigiriya rock and Dambulla caves. We had only four days and much to see and absorb. The rains kept coming, only to keep us close to paradise. The photograph to the left is one example of what the rains brought us . . . We started by driving about 40km NW of Habarana to Aukana, the village where the perfectly preserved 12 m high ancient Buddha statue is located. Carved out of a single rock the east facing statue stands majestic and was especially beautiful in the morning rays. The next statue was located in the village of Sasseruwa, not very far from Aukana, but took a seriously fun 4x4 drive to get to. And the drive was the best part of this journey. Picture perfect landscapes flanked by abundant water bodies, paddy fields and evergreen patches; happy smiling people, the quiet pace, bright little kids - everything so reassuringly peaceful. The village is just as picturesque. Sasseruwa’s Buddha statue, believed to be an original copy of the Aukana statue, is hidden away on a stunning rocky hillside which houses an ancient monastery complex full of caves and mysterious looking stupas which drew me in more than the statue itself.
The feet of the Aukana Buddha, Aukana.
Stupas inside the Sasseruwa monastic complex, Sasseruwa.
Young monks in the vicinity(R)
The most picturesque, peaceful Sasseruwa Village.
Of the many friends we made along the way.
Scattered ruins, Anuradhapura (L, R)
The splendour of Anuradhapura lies in the sheer vastness of the area scattered with ruins. A colossal ancient city of magnificient proportions, Anuradhapura was Srilanka’s capital from 4th century BC to the beginning of 11th century AD, a great monastic city of the ancient world and truly at the heart of the island’s spiritual power.
Walking among these great old ruins, wet and gleaming from monsoon showers ...and I was back to indulging my love of escaping away into the mystique of ancient worlds while romancing the sweet tropical rain . . .
Remains of a temple complex, Anuradhapura.
Jetavana Dagoba, part of the Jetavana monastery complex and was one of the largest structures of the ancient world. Anuradhapura.
Blue water lilies, the island’s national flower, wait to adorn the temple shrines.
Detail outside Shiva Devale, Polonnaruwa.
We followed the monsoon to Polonnaruwa, another glorious city built by Parakramabahu, the great Sri Lankan king. It was the second Sinhalese capital following the massive destruction of Anuradhapura by the Hindu King Rajaraja Chola in 993 AD. Though not of sprawling nature like Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa has its own distinct allure. Contained beautifully in a smaller area with many of it’s ruins, still intact, Polonnaruwa is able to tell us a richly illustrated story of a great city’s past. The several Shiva temples interspersed with and built over the Buddhist ones speak of the turmoil prevalent even at the time. One structure that held me in awe was the monument of Lankatilaka Vihara, once an important Buddhist temple. Never before had I experienced such magnificence and power when walking into a place. The walls were so rich with age and so alive that I was sure I could hear whispers of prayers. The monumental Buddha statue, though a head short seemed to be breathing deeply and in eternal meditation.
and yes, the rains played their part . . . they stayed close and said all they had to.
Buddha figurine left behind a monastery wall. Polonnaruwa.
Young monks leaving the site of the Parakramabahu monolith. Polonnaruwa (L)
The spectacular Lankatilaka Vihara, Polonnaruwa. (L & R)
Vatadage, the beautifully executed circular structure and one of the oldest in Polonnaruwa.
Buddha detail, Vatadage. Polonnaruwa. (R)
“Within this moment, the only moment that exists, the past, present and future are contained.� ~ Buddha
Sleeping Buddha detail at Gal Vihara, the rock cut temple at Polonnaruwa.
The seated Buddha, Gal Vihara, Polonnaruwa. (L)
Inscription detail, Vatadage, Polonnaruwa.
A living proof of the eras gone by. Polonnaruwa.
From the relics to the sea: a road trip through the heart of Serendip Anuradhapura
HABARANA
14 hours. 500 somethingKM. Stunning landscapes. Mountains. Ocean. Rainforest. Sleepy villages. Busy towns. Local food. Island’s pace. Shining people. Frenzy. Fatigue. Peace & Love.
kandy
ELLA A drive such as this could only Nuwara Eliya lead to Galle . . . the little melting pot of a coastal town. Wellawaya Quaint, charming and cozy. Home to the beautifully preserved 16th century Dutch fort. And gorgeous 5 days to soak it all up in the
Sun. Rain. Quiet & Happiness
GALLE Matara
Hambantota
Galle : a photo essay
Entrance to the National maritime museum, Galle fort.
Richly aging walls, Galle fort.
Galle fort’s main entrance.
Monk during morning prayer rounds, Shri Sudarmalaya Buddhist Temple (located inside the fort)
One of the many interwined lives of trees and buildings inside the fort.
Beautiful art on display at the quaint gallery and store, Barefoot.
“ Using the mind to look for reality is delusion. Not using the mind to lookfor reality is awareness. Freeing yourself from words is liberation.� ~
Bodhidharma (5th-6th century)
Detail outside Shiva Devale, Polonnaruwa.
We stayed at the gorgeous Fortprinters, once a Dutch printing press (detail above) converted into a sprawling, tastefully decorated boutique villa in the heart of fort Galle. The place has an incredible little restuarant that dishes up fine food, and the fabulous chef and staff were always happy to have us for company in the kitchen (L)
A view of the town that nestles peacefully inside the fort.
Beautiful onlookers who made my morning (R)
“All things appear and disappear
because of the concurrence of causes and conditions. Nothing ever exists entirely alone; everything is in relation to everything else.� Buddha
Galle fort at dawn.
From my SL resource book :
www.themudhouse.lk www.roughguides.com/website/shop/ products/Sri-Lanka.aspx www.lankapura.com www.lonelyplanet.com/sri-lanka www.sawdays.co.uk www.mysrilankaholidays.com www.thefortprinters.com
whc.unesco.org/en/list/200
(Anuradhapura)
whc.unesco.org/en/list/201
(Polonnaruwa)
whc.unesco.org/en/list/451
(Galle)
Paramakanda Cave temple www.boutiquerilanka.com www.reddottours.com Maps
www.ramyareddy.com ˙ © ramyareddy 2010.