RAY HOLLAND BREEDING BLUE EARED GLOSSY STARLINGS
PART ONE
ZEBRA FINCHES
KEN LOCKWOOD AND GERALD MASSEY
HAWFINCH MY STORY
Parrot Society UK in 2026
Would you like to join The Parrot Society UK and Steve Brookes (Wild Parrots Up Close) on a very special trip to Brazil with a chance to see up to 18 species of parrots? These include six Macaws including the Hyacinth Macaw along with many other Brazilian Birds and wildlife as we travel through the Southern Pantanal in this stunning South American country.
Throughout this trip, we are likely to see in excess of 150 bird species with many opportunities to photo, video or just observe them in their Natural Habitats.
We also have chances of some rare mammals such as the Giant Anteater and Giant River Otter with a very outside chance of Jaguar as we travel on the river in the Pantanal plus snorkelling in the Rio Prata likened to swimming in an aquarium.
If you have any questions about any aspects of this trip please email Steve Brookes steve@wildparrotsupclose.com
If you would like to see more information about the trip and the full itinerary check out the webpage.
Green-winged Macaw landing
Hyacinth Nest Checking
Hyacinth Macaws on feeder
Toco Toucan
Blazewinged Conures
Yellow-faced Parrot
INTRODUCTION
The 2024 breeding season has brought many challenges to our hobbyist bird breeders as a result of poor weather this spring, in fact many of my contacts have said that we have not had a spring this year, winter has just continued.
I am delighted that Johnston and Jeff are continuing to sponsor The National Exhibition; their outstanding support is greatly appreciated. This is the seventeenth National Exhibition organised by The Parrot Society at Stafford County Showground, the first being held, in
BY THE EDITOR
LES RANCE
2007 and I have been privileged to be involved in the administration of every show. There is a great team involved with this event and many of the clubs have been involved right from the start.
Lee Clarke one of the Trustees of The Parrot Society has done a sterling job helping me, which has made it much easier obtaining the club advertisements from the clubs, for this publication. This year we are pleased to have the National Cockatiel Association joining the ranks of clubs exhibiting their members birds, it will be great to see some beautiful Cockatiels on the show bench. I can truly say that many of the club officials have become very good friends of mine. As we have been very confident that this year’s event was going to be held, now that Covid-19 has been tamed, I have had more time to build up the show than last year, and I am sure this additional time has been helpful to both The Parrot Society and the exhibiting clubs.
It is fantastic that we are now back to normal after throwing off the problems associated with Covid-19. The National Exhibition is a great day out for thousands
of bird enthusiasts and being based in Staffordshire, it has a massive catchment area. I am always delighted to see a good contingent from Ireland and love to watch the continental judges becoming involved in officiating at this wonderful event. We now have seventeen clubs supporting the exhibition and I can assure all readers that everything possible has been done to ensure that we have a superb show in 2024.
I am certain that everyone will be delighted to be back to a full sized show at Stafford Showground on the Sunday 6th of October doing what we all immensely enjoy, putting on a show.
It is now many years since I was show secretary for Chesham CBS but I still remember all the work that went into those shows. This included retrieving all the staging from storage in the roof of the local Scout hut two miles away and then the work of putting it back again on the Sunday evening, a really back breaking task. Fortunately, at Stafford all the staging is delivered from our 40foot storage container to the exhibition halls by forklift truck and equally efficiently returned to said storage after the show. All we need to do is to build the staging and the judging stands and take them down, and stack them carefully on the provided pallets.
INTRODUCTION
A considerable saving in physical work from my days at Chesham CBS, unfortunately no longer in existence.
No doubt, there will be changes to the trade stands and those who attend this year including some new businesses. By combining our successful Sales Day with the National Exhibition all, the exhibitors have plenty to see and do whilst their birds are being judged. It makes a very full day for them and gives them the opportunity to trawl all the trade stands and see what new products are available. I know I always go home with an item that will be very useful for my breeding collection. The majority of our traders, being smaller businesses, often have their own bird collections or studs and are therefore a great source of valuable information to new enthusiasts to the bird-keeping hobby. They are both delighted to see their customers and are very welcoming and pleased to pass on information on new products to make life that little bit easier for the hundreds of hobbyist breeders that attend our show. As mentioned above there will be overseas judges that have been appointed to judge some of the birds
being exhibited, I always think that this is a real ‘added attraction’ and something greatly enjoyed by the club officials; it just adds that ‘bit of difference’ to the day. One must not forget that judging the best bird of each variety is not an easy task and we are very fortunate to have some world class judges in the UK, there is no doubt that a great deal of pressure is placed on the shoulders of these individuals, but I guess they enjoy it!
We hope you all have a great day at The National. A large amount of work has been invested in this exhibition, please do support the event. Entry wristbands are available at £10 each from The Parrot Society website www.theparrotsocietyuk.org just agree to our cookies policy as you enter the site and then click on the PSUK ‘SHOP’ and then click on National Exhibition (October Show). Both Credit and Debit cards are accepted and we post your entry wristbands to you. Please book early to avoid postal delays, we will be taking down the site on Friday 27th September due to the poor service from Royal Mail for various areas of the country.
Hawfinches have always been a species which have fascinated me since being young, with their enormous beaks, large raptor-like eyes and elusiveness as one of Britain’s rarest birds.
HAWFINCH MY STORY
ROLIVER CROWTHER
enowned for being one of the most difficult finches to breed, success in breeding hawfinches is few and far between. Yet, they have been a welcomed challenge in my bird room over the past few years.
Hawfinches have always been a species which have fascinated me since being young, with their enormous beaks, large raptor-like eyes and elusiveness as one of Britain’s rarest birds. Since I
began keeping birds, they’ve always been on my bucket list to keep and breed. That dream became a reality this spring, but it hasn’t been without its trials and tribulations.
Let me take you back to 2022, when my first ever hawfinches arrived. The pair moved outside into a large, planted aviary in the April, beginning to come into condition over the 6 weeks that followed. They were an older pair, acquired from a good friend of mine, with both birds being about 6-7 years old. The hen was also hand reared, regularly taking food from my hand and was unfazed by any disturbances. The pair built a nest and laid 2 eggs in mid-June, then began to incubate. During this time, the hen was very aggressive towards the male, never allowing him to share the same perch as her and occasionally chasing him around the flight until exhaustion. She also regularly performed breeding displays at the front of the aviary each day, but they were directed at me rather than the male bird due to her imprint on humans. This was a sign of things to come. After 10 days of incubation, I candled the eggs to check their fertility, and to my disappointment they were clear. After removing the eggs, that’s when further problems arose. The hen
turned against the cock, bullying him into sorry state and drawing blood. Thankfully, I discovered this before it was too late, taking immediate intervention by separating the pair, and that marked the end of my first season with this species.
Over the winter, the male succumbed to his injuries having never fully recovered. And after a long winter on her own, whilst I was searching for a partner for her, the hen randomly passed one night just before spring at 8 years old. Over the year that followed, I kept an eye out for any available pairs, but sadly to no prevail.
Fast-forward to this spring, I had 2 pairs of Hawfinches ready to breed having overwintered and conditioned here. Their breeding habits are quite complex, requiring a behaviourally dominant hen and a submissive cock Their breeding habits are quite complex, requiring a behaviourally dominant hen and a submissive cock bird. Otherwise, this risks the safety of the hen if paired with a territorial male.
I had 2 pairs of Hawfinches ready to breed having overwintered and conditioned here.
bird. Otherwise, this risks the safety of the hen if paired with a territorial male. One of the pairs were particularly timid, so they took the outdoor flight whilst the other pair occupied a large flight cage in the bird room. Each pair were given the choice of two nest sites, one chapel style and one open nest pan, both with coco-fibre liners. Live food was also a vital part of their breeding preparation, which I began to supplement in small amounts every few days as the weather warmed up, turning their beaks
slate blue. This consisted of mealworms, calci-worms, pinkies and waxworms. For the pair indoors, I installed a full spectrum lighting system above the flight to bring them into the best condition possible. Before the start of the season, I would have been happy with just full eggs, as it’s a step further than I’d achieved before. Now I’m going to share with you some diary entries for how this season unfolded.
Hawfinch Egg
4 Chicks at 7 days old
Hen on the nest
07/05/24 – Today was the first time this season I’ve seen either of the hens carrying nest material. This hen is in the bird room, carrying strands of coco fibre in her beak and regularly visiting and sitting in the nest site. I’ve also noticed the pair feeding each other, usually with berries or insects.
13/05/24 – The first egg has arrived! This morning, I reached into the nest and to my surprise one single egg has been laid, lets hope there’s more to come.
16/05/24 – Today is the first day of incubation, I’ve set up an endoscope camera to monitor the nest and the 4 eggs.
18/05/24 – The first mishap. The hen has become extremely aggressive towards the male, I discovered him pinned down and beat up this evening, however thankfully I intervened in time and removed him before it was too late. It looks like she will have to continue incubating alone.
28/05/24 – The first hawfinch chicks have hatched! I hadn’t candled the eggs this time to limit disturbances, and after finding eggshells on the aviary floor, that’s a sign that the chicks have hatched at only 12 days of incubation. I checked on the camera and I can see 4 little heads above a ball of fluff. I’ve been offering a variety of insects to the hen, which have all been sprinkled with calcium powder to ensure the development of strong bones in the chicks. She has occasionally left the nest today to collect them, let’s hope she’s feeding them into the chicks.
02/06/24 – The chicks have made it to 5 days old, and the hen has been doing an amazing job at rearing all 4, especially considering she’s a firsttime mother. I’ve closed rung the chicks today using BBC Size K rings at 5 days old.
08/06/24 – This morning I’ve discovered all 4 chicks have fledged the nest at 11 days old. They’re quite useless currently, only able to shuffle along the floor and sit upright when calling for food.
10/06/24 – To my disappointment, I’ve found the smallest of the 4 chicks dead on the cage floor. It looks like the hen may have stopped feeding
him. Rearing 4 is very rare, so it was bound to happen at some point, right?
11/06/24 – Today another chick has died, once again it’s looking like the hen has stopped feeding it. What am I doing wrong? I’ve began to top-up the remaining two chicks with hand rearing formula encase she stops feeding those 2 entirely as well. After consultation with a friend who is experienced in breeding hawfinches, I’ve removed the nest site as the hen may be distracted with attempting for a 2nd clutch. Maybe this was why she stopped feeding the smallest chicks.
All 3 pictures Chicks at 12 days old
12/06/24 – I’ve tried to reintroduce the cock bird back into the aviary, but to no success. I hoped he may feed the remaining chicks, but he was immediately attacked upon re-entry by the hen. Thankfully I have seen the hen feeding the chicks once again, lets persist with some hand feeding too and hope they survive.
28/06/24 – The remaining 2 chicks have made it to 1 month old! They’ve began to feed themselves with a mix of insects, with wax worms being their favourite. They’ve also shown some interest in hard seed, boiled peas and insect soft feed. Feeding from the hen is now limited, and they’ve finally managed to master the art of flight and perching after 2 weeks of limited success.
I will attempt to wean the chicks from their mother at around 35-40 days old, but there is no rush as I don’t want to risk losing them. I believe the two chicks which passed were both males, due to their rich dark brown back feathers and black flight feathers. The two remaining youngsters both look like hens, being much paler in appearance by comparison and both having a very speckled chest.
Let’s hope there’s more success to come with this species at OC Aviary in the future, but for now I’m ecstatic to have successfully bred 2 chicks. The next step, can we moult them successfully?
Hen checking chicks in nest
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ROSEMARY LOW
WINTER: PREVENTING LOSSES
Almost all losses of aviary birds during the winter can be prevented by thinking and planning ahead.
There is no doubt that our weather has become windier in recent years. This aspect can result in serious losses, through aviaries that literally cannot stand up to gales and because draughts can be deadly for birds. We should protect and locate our aviaries with this in mind.
Now is the time to strengthen the roofs of aviaries. Be certain that they are properly secured using bolts and washers, as illustrated. There is no excuse for flimsy aviaries when the lives of your birds depend on sound construction. Not only is it false economy in the long term but escaped birds suffer horrible deaths from starvation, cold or hawk predation.
Needless to say, aviaries and their mesh must be scrutinised carefully in case repairs are needed.
When aviaries are erected, or before, wind-breaks in the form of shrubs or trees should be planted in appropriate positions.
Draughts and wind
We all need reminders of what can go wrong if we become too blasé. Take draughts, for example. In colder weather they can be killers for birds. In the case of cages within a building that lead to an outdoor flight, the wind that enters through the exit hatch could mean that birds are permanently sitting in a draught.
© Colin O’Hara
For this reason the exit should be well below the perch level. It can be at floor level in half-depth inside cages.
Reducing the wind-chill factor is extremely important. The best method is to protect the sides of the aviaries, or those that take the brunt of the wind, with corrugated PVC sheeting, properly secured. This can be attached to wooden frames and screwed into position or the sheeting can be bolted on to aviary framework. In July 2015 the Met Office issued statistics that showed the UK had
experienced, in the first seven months of the year, the fewest calm days recorded since 1993. A “calm” day is defined as one on which at least twenty weather stations have recorded a maximum gust speed of 11mph or less. There were only eight such days.
When aviaries are erected, or before, wind-breaks in the form of shrubs or trees should be planted in appropriate positions. Elder and hawthorn are recommended for their rapid growth -- with the added bonus in autumn of feeding the berries to the birds!
Most parrots are hardy. Cold alone will not have a harmful impact on healthy birds. However, young parrots are less tolerant of uncomfortably low temperatures -- something that should always be borne in mind. They are often less sensible about perching in sheltered positions.
Before the onset of cold weather, carefully examine all your aviary birds. If any are underweight, they are the ones least likely to survive the winter. Steps should be taken to ascertain why this is the case, with an avian vet check, if possible. At least make an appropriate alteration to the diet or accommodation or remove a dominant companion who is harassing a bird at feeding times.
Seeds high in oil, such as hemp, perilla, sunflower and safflower, can form a higher proportion of a seed mixture.
Winter diets
Birds in outdoor aviaries must be in good health to withstand our often rapidly fluctuating temperatures in winter. Special attention needs to be paid not only to diet but also to the way food is provided. A seed mixture that is appropriate during the warmer months might fail to provide sufficient energy in cold weather. Seeds high in oil, such as hemp, perilla, sunflower and safflower, can form a higher proportion of a seed mixture. Sprays of seeding dock that have been cut, dried and stored are useful then, and also provide a treat.
Birds with special feeding requirements, ie, food that could freeze, should always be housed in aviaries with access to indoor quarters, with flaps or doors that permit the birds to be shut inside at night. Lories and other species which feed mainly on nectar would have to
Sunflower Seeds
be fed at least four times daily if the food was outside and the nectar froze. This would be impossible for people working long hours.
Protecting the food from mice is of the utmost importance, especially in a colony aviary where it is difficult to control the amount of food eaten by individual birds or pairs.
Hours of daylight and food intake
Electric lighting is as useful as heating in many cases. It enables birds to feed for lengthened periods, thus better maintaining their body temperature. Food is converted to energy, that is, heat. A small species,
such as a parrotlet or lovebird, makes the most efficient use of its food at about 80°F (27°C). The lower the temperature drops, the greater the intake of food needs to be. I am not suggesting that indoor quarters are heated to this degree -- about 54°F (about 12° C) is adequate for most species. However, I am suggesting that the quantity of food might need to be slightly increased.
A dimmer switch is recommended in all birdrooms, so that birds are not suddenly plunged into darkness. The lights should be dimmed at approximately the same time each night as birds have an acute sense of time and establishing a routine is good
A small species, such as a parrotlet or lovebird, makes the most efficient use of its food at about 80°F (27°C).
I once saw an aviary parakeet hanging from the roof by its beak. It had no feet, only stumps. Such neglect is totally unforgivable and can be prevented.
UV light and Vitamin D
Vitamin D deficiencies are common in captive birds kept with insufficient dietary vitamin D. UV light assists in its absorption. Many psittacine birds are fed a seed-based diet; seed is deficient in this vitamin. (Please refer to my book Parrots and Finches: Healthy Nutrition for more information on this topic.)
The availability of UV bulbs for lamps in holders made to stand on top of a flat cage (such as a breeding cage in a birdroom) or at its side, and for table lamps (for companion birds), has made the provision of ultra-violet light so easy. One or two hours daily is enough. Prolonged exposure might damage the eyes.
Cold weather and frost-bite
In outdoor birdrooms, heat is lost through windows. In cold weather when there is no need to open
windows, I always tack heavy bubblewrap over them. If the birdroom door is not a tight fit, I would suggest hanging a heavy curtain over it to cut out draughts.
One of the worst winter problems is frost-bite. This should never happen. If it does, to me it indicates a lack of care. The outcome is a painful loss of toes or even the entire foot. I once saw an aviary parakeet hanging from the roof by its beak. It had no feet, only stumps. Such neglect is totally unforgivable and can be prevented. Wide wooden perches encourage a lower roosting stance, thus feathers protect the feet. It is a crime to use metal perches.
Roosting inside
In my opinion, no parrots should spend winter nights in outdoor enclosures in northern Europe. All aviaries should have an indoor part. Most members of the parrot family soon learn to enter when the carer approaches at night. I know some people will say “They prefer to roost outside!” It is just a matter of training and the right conditions. If the highest perch is in the inside quarters and these are well lit, with a window and with electric light, parrots will enter. Remember that some parrots will roost on top of the nest-box if this is the highest point. If nest-boxes must be in position during the colder months, they should be inside.
In my experience, if birds don’t want to go inside you net them and place them there. Most parrots hate being caught so after two or three nights they decide that voluntarily entering the inside part is a better option!
Night dangers
Roosting outside is a major cause of mortality. Birds of all species are vulnerable to rats and stoats (in badly maintained aviaries), cats, hawks and owls. Night frights (fireworks, security lights and headlights) are other dangers. Wind, snow and frost at night can be lethal.
Birds of all species are vulnerable to rats and stoats (in badly maintained aviaries), cats, hawks and owls.
Early morning inspection
If you cannot get up early in the morning, my advice would be: don’t keep birds! It is so important to inspect all birds at first light, especially during cold weather -- or earlier if you have lights inside.
A sick bird found early in the day can often be saved when placed under a ceramic infra-red lamp. Because sick birds deteriorate so quickly, this might not be possible later in the day.
Also inspect your birds daily prior to dusk. This might save the life of a sick bird, which would not have survived the night. If you are unable to inspect your birds at first light in cold weather, it is not advisable to give them access to the outdoor flights.
Early morning inspection is the means of saving many chicks in the nest. If the parents have ceased to
brood them overnight they will not survive long if they are not feathered. Just one hour can be the difference between life (moved to a brooder) and death.
Damp quarters
Birdrooms and inside quarters must be properly insulated and maintained to keep out draughts and damp. If the birdroom is damp, look for the source of the problem and correct it. Pay special attention to keeping the roof watertight. If the felt is leaking, treat it with liquid bitumen or renew the felt. Meanwhile, maintain a low level of heating to prevent mould forming, as this can have serious disease consequences for the birds. In very wet weather I use a dehumidifier in the inside quarters. Always remember, their lives are in your hands. A careless attitude to their welfare is not acceptable.
BY LES RANCE
THE NATIONAL EXHIBITION
There is no doubt that the 2024 breeding season has brought many challenges to our hobbyist bird breeders as a result of poor weather this spring, in fact many of my contacts have said that we have not had a spring this year, winter has just continued. I am delighted that Johnston and Jeff are continuing to sponsor The National Exhibition; their outstanding support is greatly appreciated.
This is the seventeenth National Exhibition organised by The Parrot Society at Stafford County Showground, the first being held, in 2007 and I have been privileged to be involved in the administration of every show. There is a great team involved with this event and many of the clubs have been involved right from the start. Lee Clarke one of the Trustees of The Parrot Society has done a sterling job helping me, which has made it much easier obtaining the club advertisements from the clubs, for this publication. This year we are pleased to have the National Cockatiel Association joining the ranks of clubs exhibiting their members birds, it will be great to see
some beautiful Cockatiels on the show bench. I can truly say that many of the club officials have become very good friends of mine. As we have been very confident that this year’s event was going to be held, now that Covid-19 has been tamed, I have had more time to build up the show than last year, and I am sure this additional time has been helpful to both The Parrot Society and the exhibiting clubs.
It is fantastic that we are now back to normal after throwing off the problems associated with Covid-19. The National Exhibition is a great day out for thousands of bird enthusiasts and being based in Staffordshire, it has a massive catchment area. I am
always delighted to see a good contingent from Ireland and love to watch the continental judges becoming involved in officiating at this wonderful event. We now have seventeen clubs supporting the exhibition and I can assure all readers that everything possible has been done to ensure that we have a superb show in 2024.
I am certain that everyone will be delighted to be back to a full sized show at Stafford Showground on the Sunday 6th of October doing what we all immensely enjoy, putting on a show. It is now many years since I was show secretary for Chesham CBS but I still remember all the work that went
into those shows. This included retrieving all the staging from storage in the roof of the local Scout hut two miles away and then the work of putting it back again on the Sunday evening, a really back breaking task. Fortunately, at Stafford all the staging is delivered from our 40-foot storage container to the exhibition halls by forklift truck and equally efficiently returned to said storage after the show. All we need to do is to build the staging and the judging stands and take them down, and stack them carefully on the provided pallets. A considerable saving in physical work from my days at Chesham CBS, unfortunately no longer in existence. No doubt, there will be changes to the
trade stands and those who attend this year including some new businesses. By combining our successful Sales Day with the National Exhibition all, the exhibitors have plenty to see and do whilst their birds are being judged. It makes a very full day for them and gives them the opportunity to trawl all the trade stands and see what new products are available. I know I always go home with an item that will be very useful for my breeding collection. The majority of our traders, being smaller businesses, often have their own bird collections or studs and are therefore a great source of valuable information to new enthusiasts to the birdkeeping hobby. They are both
delighted to see their customers and are very welcoming and pleased to pass on information on new products to make life that little bit easier for the hundreds of hobbyist breeders that attend our show.
As mentioned above there will be overseas judges that have been appointed to judge some of the birds being exhibited, I always think that this is a real ‘added attraction’ and something greatly enjoyed by the club officials; it just adds that ‘bit of difference’ to the day. One must not forget that judging the best bird of each variety is not an easy task and we are very fortunate to have some world class judges in the UK, there is
no doubt that a great deal of pressure is placed on the shoulders of these individuals, but I guess they enjoy it!
.
We hope you all have a great day at The National. A large amount of work has been invested in this exhibition, please do support the event. Entry wristbands are available at £10 each from The Parrot Society website www.theparrotsocietyuk.org just agree to our cookies policy as you enter the site and then click on the PSUK ‘SHOP’ and then click on National Exhibition (October Show). Both Credit and Debit cards are accepted and we post your entry wristbands to you. Please book early to avoid postal delays, we will be
taking down the site on Friday 27th September due to the poor service from Royal Mail for various areas of the country.
It soon became apparent that I had a dominant pair, the cock being slightly larger than the hen. The two of them would bow and scrape to each other making little squeaks and for the most part being very friendly, although on occasions even these two would squabble.
I was fairly confident I had a breeding pair, so gave them an aviary to themselves approximately 16ft x 5ft covered except for the end which is open to the elements and faces east. Two nest boxes were provided one open fronted and the other a Parakeet
type with bob hole – this one was put in at a slight angle and was the one they chose to lay their first clutch of three eggs in, in late May. Dried grasses, evergreen leaves, moss and feathers were used to build the nest.
I feed them on standard softbill food, pellets of various types and flavours, chopped fruit, sweetcorn, wax moth larvae and mealworms. For some reason they do not appear to be very interested in crickets which surprised me. All three eggs hatched, but how long incubation had taken I could not be certain since the young were very
Feeding by syringe and tweezers every 3-4 hours with the last feed about 10.00pm and starting again at 6.00am – not a particularly good regime for those who still have to work I might add.
quiet in the nest, but you knew something was happening by the constant coming and going of the parents.
Upon inspection I found three very small chicks so increased the feed to three or four hour intervals for the first week using mini mealworms to start with and later added wax moth larvae. After about ten days the parents were observed picking up nesting material, particularly feathers and from previous experience this was an ominous sign of something going wrong, the parents wanting to nest again!!
I checked the box and could find only one healthy youngster, about ten days old, the others had just disappeared. They may have been covered by the fresh nesting material or just thrown out of the nest box. At this time we
were experiencing an unusually prolonged spell of really hot weather and this, together with a plentiful supply of live food may have been the spur to produce again, before finishing the first clutch.
I decided to be positive and took the remaining youngster away for hand rearing which we successfully achieved using a hospital cage with low heat, the youngster being placed in a plastic tub with paper towels on the bottom to give grip and part cloth covering to replicate the darkness of nest box conditions. Feeding by syringe and tweezers every 3-4 hours with the last feed about 10.00pm and starting again at 6.00am – not a particularly good regime for those who still have to work I might add. All went well, the youngster got used to the routine after the first 2 or 3 reluctant efforts and was always very excited at the sight of a wax worm. In addition mini mealworms and Orlux hand mix were used without difficulty and after about another two weeks the bird was fully feathered and trying to fly.
In the meantime the parents went down again, laying three eggs; the weather this time was getting back to something more like a normal
British summer. In due course two eggs hatched and the parents fed the young very well, almost competing to feed the most food. I would say that the hen was the best, taking bunches of mealworms at one go – the cock usually one at a time.
After what seemed to be an age the first youngster appeared at the bobhole, poking its head out to be fed and at about four weeks, both fledged. I had expected them to appear sooner; they were a duller version of the parents and could fly well at this early stage. The young are still with
After what seemed to be an age the first youngster appeared at the bobhole, poking its head out to be fed and at about four weeks, both fledged.
their parents in December and will have to be separated well before the next breeding season starts in the Spring.
The two parent reared birds are surprisingly confident and tame, they come out into the service passage
way every day for exercise and to pinch as much live food as they can get from my food trolley. They appear fearless and fly at great speed about and around me – typical Starlings, real clowns and very entertaining. Strangely enough the hand reared one from the first round is quite the opposite, not a bit tame but just as hungry.
Due to enforced inactivity (knee op) I was very late in getting all my birds’ flights ready for the breeding season. The Glossy’s nest box was not put in
They appear fearless and fly at great speed about and around me –typical Starlings, real clowns and very entertaining.
until early May and not as high up as usual, normally near the roof at an
The general diet for adults and their youngsters is softbill food, Bevo, Beaphar, Bogena, Softbill Pellets both fruit type and insect varieties.
days I knew the Hen was laying green/ blue eggs, this time three. In the past, when obviously younger, the pair would have four or even five eggs and rear them all. However as they age three seems to be the norm. After about 14 days the eggs hatch and both parents will feed the young with minimealworms, waxworms and crickets which seem to be the mainstay for the fledglings. The general diet for adults and their youngsters is softbill food, Bevo, Beaphar, Bogena, Softbill Pellets both fruit type and insect varieties. They also like plenty of fresh fruit, almost any is acceptable – they are not fussy feeders.
Not too long after the youngsters fledged the parents started to take in new nesting material and restart the breeding cycle again, whilst continuing to feed the first round youngsters.
Not so clear thinking on my part and lack of aviary space caused the second round to fail when, given better management, they should have survived. The first round youngsters remained in the flight (my mistake!). The nest box should have been replaced or, at least thoroughly cleaned out, before signs of nesting again began (mistake).
I did refresh the nest box when the second round young were about 7 days old but it was a messy job. Although two of the young grew and feathered well and even fledged, they were not healthy and nor did they leave the nest box when they should have.
I believe a combination of the aforementioned and the nest box being slightly too small, i.e. 7½“ x 7½“ x 13” and not at a great enough angle were also a contributory factor (mistake). So after what should have been six youngsters only the first round survived to be good healthy birds.
Better news from another of my three pairs of Blue Eared Glossys. I retained some youngsters from breeding four years ago and this is the first time they have attempted to breed.
Not too long after the youngsters fledged the parents started to take in new nesting material and restart the breeding cycle again, whilst continuing to feed the first round youngsters.
They are rather like a cordon of England cricketers in the slips – seeing who can jump higher than the next to catch the thrown mealworms.
Strangely only one egg but this was successfully hatched and reared. This youngster being an ‘only child’ so to speak is a really strong and healthy individual. So after all these years I am pleased with the result. The three birds are still in the flight together –the only difference being the black eyes as opposed to the bright creamy yellow of the parents. Adult eye colour of these birds does vary slightly, some being more orange yellow.
One rather endearing feature of the one youngster family is that they can all catch with aplomb. At feeding time they come out of their flight down the corridor to where I prepare the food and wait on the step. They are rather like a cordon of England cricketers in the slips – seeing who can jump higher than the next to catch the thrown mealworms. This little exercise goes on for some minutes and seems to be enjoyed by everyone, most of all me.
One final point on feeding these birds, it seems I may be in the minority here but I continue feeding live food through the winter, although I do try to reduce the amount. I find the insects are a good carrier for the various supplements I give to my birds throughout the year, such as Insectivorous Feast and Daily Essentials 3 for my frugivorius birds like Barbets and Bulbuls.
Most of my birds are through the moult now and look in excellent condition. I can thoroughly recommend them, they are real characters, rewarding and great fun to keep. I am keeping two flights empty in the optimistic hope I will have a successful breeding season with somewhere safe to put all those youngsters. I wish!
KEN LOCKWOOD AND GERALD MASSEY
PART ONE
It is always pleasing to hear of people who have decided to take up Zebra finches, whether it is as a collection of birds in a garden aviary or with a view to breeding and –eventually – exhibiting them. From time to time we are approached by newcomers who want to know where to get stock.
We are always willing to advise. However, we firmly believe in putting first things first and council strongly against even beginning to look for birds until an adequate aviary or birdroom has been set up.
It is best to build up a fund of knowledge before doing anything at all – and there are several ways of doing this starting with books. In our experience, some of the books available on Zebra finches offer very little in the way of practical advice that can be applied to the fancy in the UK today. We are referring in particular, to some publications from the USA. An admirable book, which we frequently recommend is Chris Blackwell’s ‘Keeping and breeding Zebra finches.’
These days videos have a great deal to offer hobbyists and in our branch of the fancy the best offering is Peter Harrison’s ‘Breeding Zebra Finches step by step.’ Other advice is available from the Zebra Finch Society.
Then there is the Cage and Aviary Birds, which not only offers informative articles but also permits readers to keep up to date with what is happening in the fancy. There is a tendency for people who are
interested in one particular type of bird to ignore the articles about other species. This is a big mistake. Over the years we have learnt a great deal from articles about other branches of the hobby. In an article about budgerigars, Terry Pilkington related how he and his wife’s birds had benefitted from being given filtered water rather than water straight from the tap. We immediately began giving filtered water to our Zebras, still do and we are convinced that they are the better for it.
…there is the Cage and Aviary Birds, which not only offers informative articles but also permits readers to keep up to date with what is happening in the fancy.
Before setting up an aviary or birdroom it is best to visit an experienced Zebra finch fancier to get some idea about suitable layouts.
Joining your local cage bird society
Even if the birdroom you first visit is large and impressive, we advise starting with a fairly modest set up and to build up from that.
will put you in touch with other bird keepers, but if you find difficulty making your own contacts, you can take advantage of the Zebra Finch Society’s area representative scheme. This puts you in touch with someone who not only knows a lot about Zebra finches, but also has local knowledge.
When starting up in a hobby, people tend to worry about apparent problems that, to the experienced person, are really not important. Being able to get good advice, quickly, can make all the difference. Even if the birdroom you first visit is large and impressive, we advise starting with a fairly modest set up and to build up from that. It is a mistake to spend lots of money at the outset, just in case you change your mind. Laying out a fortune and then breeding nothing in your first year can be so disheartening as to cause anyone to give up.
As individual breeders, our progress, as far as the birdroom size is concerned, was similar. The first birdroom was a 6ft x 4ft shed. The next step was to 6ft x 10ft and then
Being able to get good advice, quickly, can make all the difference.
when that was outgrown to 12ft x 8ft. We now both have fairly large establishments, each measuring 12ft x 30ft.
If you have no interest in pedigree and do not intend to show your birds, an aviary in which the birds fly freely is ideal – but take advice on how many pairs can be comfortably accommodated in the space available. If your intension is to exhibit, you need to breed your Zebra finches under controlled conditions and that means having cages, preferably within a birdroom.
If you have no interest in pedigree and do not intend to show your birds, an aviary in which the birds fly freely is ideal.
Once you have your birdroom erected (we will assume it is a timber construction) there are one or two refinements that can make life better for both you and your birds. Lining the walls with hardboard – melamine faces, if you can afford it, will give the room’s interior a pleasing appearance and also make it easier to keep clean.
In our view it is essential to insulate the cavity between the outer wall and the lining.
We also recommend installing a supply of electricity to the birdroom, though this is not a job to be undertaken by anyone who is not qualified to do it. For everything else, the ‘Do-it-yourself’ approach is acceptable, but electricity is far too dangerous to be messed about with by the amateur.
Electric lighting is the main requirement – particularly by anyone who is out at work all day. In the
One of the main considerations, when setting up a birdroom, is to avoid damp and draughts (see pages 18-27 of this edition).
middle of winter, many fanciers go out to work in the dark and by the time they return home it is dark once more.
If you want to look after your birds properly and have time to observe them during winter evenings you need extra lights.
One of the main considerations, when setting up a birdroom, is to avoid damp and draughts (see pages 18-27). Zebra finches can withstand the cold, but if damp and draughts are inflicted upon them it can damage their health. We have found that insulating a birdroom dramatically cuts down internal condensation – an insidious form of damp.
With the room’s structure completed, you can now think about cages – their form, size and number. There is no simple answer to the question “How many cages should I start with?” It all depends on your circumstances. Our usual answer is “Having as many as you feel you can handle comfortably.”
In practice, for newcomers, that usually translates to something between six and twelve cages.
An ideal size for each individual cage unit, for one breeding pair, is 24 inches long x 15 inches high and 15 inches deep. However, single cages are not the best solution. It is far better to have cages that are two or three times that length, which can be converted into individual units by inserting divider slides.
Then, the removal of one or two slides can give different permutations
Another question we are frequently asked is “What are the best colours of Zebra finches to start with?”
of flight cages – up to 6 ft long. These are ideal for housing groups of birds, such as youngsters who are being weaned. As you become more established (and your birdroom gets bigger) inside flights can be installed.
So now you are ready to acquire some birds. Another question we are frequently asked is “What are the best colours of Zebra finches to start with?”
In our view, the best colours are the ones you like the best. It would be counterproductive for us to advise getting Normals when the colour that attracted a person to Zebra finches in the first instance was white.
To begin with a colour that you are not very keen on is to risk becoming disillusioned. We would like to think that a newcomer to Zebra finches will still be keeping them in 10 years time. On the other hand, a newcomer with no hard and fast preferences might benefit by getting a few different colours and decide which ones he or she likes best after they have gained some experience of breeding them.
Having said that, if you start with more than one colour it is best to choose those that can be used for interbreeding, from the exhibition standpoint. For example, Normals go
well with Fawns and Chestnut Flanked Whites fit in well with Lightbacks. By contrast, Pieds and Penguins do not mix. If you were to interbreed with these colours, you would be highly unlikely to breed anything useful and, worse, could be setting back your exhibiting ambitions by some years. Your own local contact or ZFS area representative can be very useful at this stage putting you in touch with
Normals go well with Fawns and Chestnut Flanked Whites fit in well with Lightbacks. By contrast, Pieds and Penguins do not mix.
breeders who specialise in your chosen colours - and have had some success with them. Having read about exhibition Zebrafinches and watched videos you should have some idea of the sort of birds you are looking for, but it is still best to choose a breeder you feel you can trust and ask his advice –particularly about the way the birds you acquire should be paired.
We have deliberately left the way you should feed your birds until this point because, if at all possible, you should base your feeding regime on that of the fancier/or fanciers who supplied you with your initial stock. Many will give you small quantities to last a few days until you can arrange for a regular supply. However the basic requirements are a seed mixture, an egg-based softfood, grit and water.
As far as the seed is concerned foreign finch mixtures and mixed millets are suitable. We find the most economic and nutritious way of supplying our birds’ seed requirements is to use a milletrich budgerigar mixture – which also happens to be the cheapest in the suppliers range.
There are more good proprietary, eggfood mixtures on the market now
than there have ever been before. We find it difficult to understand why breeders buy a specifically-balanced product and then add other foods –such as more eggs or carrot – to them.
Our grit mixture consists of small mineral grit and oyster shell, in equal quantities. Cuttlefish bone is also provided as are millet sprays.
As already explained, we offer filtered tap water. The only additive we feed is a mineral/vitamin supplement that is added to the drinking water at the rate and frequency recommended by the manufacturer. Again there are lots of good products of this type on the market. With a good, balanced diet such as the one we have described we see no reason for feeding other ‘extras’ – home grown, collected from the wild or purchased. Our grit mixture consists of small mineral grit and oyster shell, in equal quantities. Cuttlefish bone is also provided as are millet sprays.
Breeding Zebra Finches
One of the many challenges of breeding Zebra finches is that no two breeding seasons are ever alike. For example, in both our birdrooms, at the start of one season we had problems because the birds were too fit. This manifested itself in hens laying another clutch of eggs before they had finished incubating the first. By the second and third breeding rounds came around they had settled down and their breeding behaviour was normal.
With artificial lighting available, those who have to go to work in the daytime can carry out jobs, such as feeding, in the evening, even in the depths of winter.
We believe that a major reason for the disrupted first round was the weather being unseasonable. The seasons of the year appear to have become
mixed up so that we get warmer than usual days in winter and colder than usual days insummer. To some extent, this has always happened but it is becoming the rule rather than the exception.
So for the next breeding season we put down most of our pairs to breed in mid-December. The contrast with the previous year was marked. Rather than being paired at the height of condition, our Zebras were put together as they were coming towards that peak. This time, the breeding pairs went about their business steadily and sensibly. Of course, there were a few pairs that did not get off to a good start, but their second round coincided with the timing of last year’s first rounds, so nothing was lost.
We were only able to make this early start because our birdrooms are draught and damp free – and equipped with electric lighting and heating. Electric lighting has become an essential for most Zebra finch breeders. With artificial lighting available, those who have to go to work in the daytime can carry out jobs, such as feeding, in the evening, even in the depths of winter.
You should not get over anxious, neither can you afford to be complacent.
Although you need to study your birds carefully, and make adjustments to get the best out of them, there are breeding basics that remain fairly constant though there is no need to get too anxious just because the timing of a particular phase of the breeding cycle is not exactly to the book. For example, we would expect the first egg to be laid around seven days after pairing, but it can be as soon as four days. In the opposite direction, even a successfully paired hen can take up to three weeks before laying. If no egg appears by that time, we may well come to the conclusion that the birds concerned need to be found new partners or given a rest in the flights.
You should not get over anxious, neither can you afford to be complacent. The vast majority of
Zebra finches get on well with their breeding partners but, very occasionally , one attacks the other. So there is a need, be it ever so slight, to keep an eye on the pairings until they have settled.
Another area which is not an exact science is the time between an egg being laid and hatching. Although the accepted time for the incubation period of a Zebra finch egg is supposed to be 14 days, there are exceptions. Occasionally, one will hatch after only 13 days and, if a hen does not begin incubating from the
first egg, it can take a day or two longer. Do not discard fertile eggs just because they have not hatched when a book states that they should have done.
We begin feeding slightly dampened softfood to breeding pairs 14 days after the first egg was laid –regardless of hatching or non hatching – and then continue on a daily basis. Softfood that is too wet causes messy parents, chicks and nestboxes and is more likely to turn sour. We stopped feeding bread and milk for this reason and now use one
of the good propriety softfoods that are advertised in Cage and Aviary Birds.
Because Zebra finch hens lay eggs on successive days, you can usually expect a chick to hatch every day if the hen sat from the first egg. So with a fair number of eggs in a clutch it is possible to end up with quite a range of chick sizes in the same nestbox. If we feel there is a risk of the youngest chick being squashed or neglected we transfer that chick to a nest that contains chicks nearer its own size. Again do not be too anxious or you
will finish up with chicks fostered all around the birdroom and – although you can take the precaution of moving the chick to a pair with different coloured youngsters - too much movement can make accurate important record keeping more difficult than it needs to be.
The other time we tend to foster chicks is when there is only one in the nest. Hens seem to feed better when they have a few chicks demanding food, whereas those with only one to look after can become lazy. Anyone who thinks that a single chick, that
gets all the attention, will develop more quickly than one in a nest of four has never bred Zebra finches.
The main reason for the nestbox inspections – which are carried out every day once a chick has
poor feeder with one nest of chicks, it does not necessarily mean she will be the same with her next brood. Sometimes a hen neglects her duties because she wants to start laying again.
Dirty nestboxes are not easy to account for. The obvious reason would seem to be diet – particularly the softfood. However that does not begin to explain why you can have adjoining pairs, on the same diet, and one nest is dirty and the other one is clean. Even so we have found that cutting back on the amount of softfood being given to a pair with a dirty nest can often overcome the problem. Whatever the cause, nestboxes should never be left dirty. They should be cleaned or replaced. We overcome this by using cardboard
In our experience, just because a hen behaves like a poor feeder with one nest of chicks, it does not necessarily mean she will be the same with her next brood.
You may read that the Zebra finch chicks should be ringed when they are seven days old, but it is impossible to be that precise and so the timing should be taken only as a guide and each chick should be judged on its own merits. You can get variations between the sizes of chicks of the same variety, even in
It may be tempting to ring a chick too young, to make the job easier and to ensure you do not miss ringing it. Too often, this can result in the ring falling off and being lost in the nestbox.
Once a complete nest of chicks has been rung we discontinue nestbox inspections. Unnecessary disturbance can cause the chicks to leave the nest before they are fully feathered. A chick without many feathers, marooned on a cage floor, can become chilled and, if undetected for too long a period, can die.
At this stage of the breeding cycle, a second nest box can be very useful. It can keep chicks warm, prevent them from being ejected or feather plucked
by their parents – and permit the hen to get on with laying the next clutch of eggs without having chicks climbing all over her. And so the cycle starts again.
SO MUCH MORE THAN A STANDARD MIX
As with everything we make, our No. 1 Parrot Food is purposefully designed to be nutritionally correct as well as having a wide variety of ingredients for behavioural enrichment. Just because it is our “standard” mix, that does not mean it is spared the Johnston & Je treatment! This traditional base food contains 16 ingredients, comprising a wide variety of shapes, colours, textures and tastes for your feathered friend to forage through. Feed with fresh fruit and vegetables or our Fruit, Nut & Veg Mix, to serve up a diet that’s so much more than standard.
Benefits
Various Ingredients for Behavioural Enrichment
Nutritionally Balanced
Cleaned to 99.9% Purity
Composition: Medium Striped Sunflower Seed, Whole Maize, Sa ower Seed, Natural Groats, Red Dari, White Sunflower Seed, Buckwheat, Monkey Nuts, Pu ed Wheat, Flaked Peas, Peanuts, Chillies, Pu ed Maize, Flaked Maize, Pine Nuts and Vegetable Oil.
Suitable for: African Greys, Amazons, Caiques, Cockatoos, Large Conures, Macaws, Meyers, Senegals and Quakers.
Please note, Johnston & Je ’s foods are only available through retailers or online. Please contact us to find your nearest stockists or for more information.
Johnston & Je Ltd.
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