Experience Travel and Living Vol.7 No.4 2011 by Experience Travel and Living

CONTENTS

ABOUT THE COVER

The Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company, in operation since 1929, transports visitors to the top of Cape Town’s famous landmark, the Table Mountain, where they are afforded a panoramic view of the city, Table Bay and Robben Island to the north, and the Atlantic seaboard to the west and south, and they can enjoy hiking to see the mountain’s unique flora.

Travel Features

Explore 18 Cedric Solidon explores the caves and attractions of Samar; marvels at the rock formations of Biri Island; gallivants around Guiuan in Eastern Samar; and gets to know Joni Bonifacio

Experience 36 Hugo Ripley takes us to Cape Town, South Africa

Exalt 52 Eileen Campos joins the Diyandi Festival and gets an introduction to Iligan City

Escape 58 El Galleon Dive Resort and Hotel 64 Puerto Nirvana Beach Resort 66 Blue Crystal Beach Resort 68 La Laguna Beach Club and Dive Center 70 El Cañonero Diving and Beach Resort 72 Jony’s Boracay Beach Resort

Other Departments Accommodations 76 Hotel Stotsenberg Leisure and Adventure 78 Puerto Galera Yacht Club’s All Souls Regatta Living 80 Pueblo de Oro Development boasts about its flood control measures Dining 84 Roel Hoang Manipon dines at Hemingway’s Bistrot 88 Nina Elyca Rabadam dines at Luca’s Cucina Italiana Restaurant

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

84 18 Encounter 90 G. Pereyra interviews South African ambassador Agnes Nyamande-Pitso 92 John A. Tanjangco talks about Bellaroca Island Resort and Spa

Regular Sections 6 Publisher’s Note 12 Contributors 8 Editor’s Note 14 Postings

94 Travel Directory 98 Travel Calendar

102 Parting Shot

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Publisher’s Note

Christmas time is here again! And the year is ending. We at Gusto Publishing, Inc. always look forward to endings and are optimistic for fresh beginnings. I deeply appreciate the dedication and the passion of the people who helped us achieve our vision and what we aim for. They have been with us, some for eight years, a few for six and three for two years and three months. Having a dedicated team is our secret in blossoming into the best of what we have been doing for so long—to always come out with good, if not the best, stories in travel. Our goal is to emphasize the art of traveling, be it luxury or budget. We are dedicated in not only promoting the popular destinations but also in giving other places with tourism potentials a platform to promote themselves. There are so many beautiful places in the Philippines waiting to be discovered and explored. We are always on the lookout for these places. In this joyous season, I am proud to introduce to you the people behind Experience Travel and Living magazine, The Philippine Traveller newspaper and our newest baby, the Portal guidebook series. These people are the prime movers of our team. We all share the same vision and are committed to make things happen—to be one of the prime movers of the tourism industry our publications. We wish to greet everyone, “Merry Christmas and a Blessed New Year!”

Gigi Gesel

Neil

Rhea Ruziell Chiqui

Kim

Chito Ava 6 |

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

Donald

Carmi

EDITOR’S NOTE

Editor’s Note

There was a time when the islands of Samar and Leyte were my Terra Incognita, keeping me fascinated and wondering. A couple of times Leyte would make headlines—a deadly flash flood in Ormoc City and a landslide that buried the whole barangay of Guinsaugon in Saint Bernard, Southern Leyte. There were no big developments; the two islands fell off the radar of Philippine tourism. Then I went with Mardy Halcon to see the programs of Plan Philippines, a United Kingdom-based non-government organization that focuses on the rights and welfare of children, in Western Samar in 2009. Plan operates in the poorest areas of the country. We went to Catbalogan City and then to Daram Island and up to the north to the town of Santa Margarita. Most of the roads were rough and unpaved. We met children who were malnourished and unable to go to school. I would return to the region within the year, this time in Leyte, for the inauguration of KEITECH, a small school that gives scholarships to its technical-vocational courses, a project of the Energy Development Corporation in the town of Kananga. EDC has a geothermal plant in the province. I got see Ormoc, a laidback, almost sleepy city. A couple of months after, we went to Southern Leyte with Plan Philippines and visited the town of Saint Bernard, infamous for the landslide that happened on February 17, 2006. The town has recovered from the tragedy and has strong disaster management practices. We visited the towns of San Francisco and Liloan. The province is prone to earthquakes and landslides. From November 4 to 7, 2009, I became a fellow in the 6th Lamiraw Regional Creative Writing Workshop, which was held in Calbayog City and drew aspiring and emerging writers all over the region. I felt the passion to write and create despite the odds and to advance writings in the Waray and Inabaknon languages. Despite the problems that beset the two islands, Samar and Leyte are beautiful places of untamed seas, verdant mountains and hardy and friendly people. Tourism stakeholders are now taking notice of the region, and I hope that tourism will contribute to their betterment. I will be returning to the region. There are more places to see and know. And Cedric Solidon is featuring some of them in a series of articles on Samar in this issue.

Editor in chief Roel Hoang Manipon poses with jars of bagoong in Urdaneta, Pangasinan (above, right); at the Kaunayan Falls in San Luis, Aurora (top); at the rice terraces of Batad in Banaue, Ifugao (middle); and with his beloved Bob Jerezo at the Tagbilaran airport in Bohol (above).

Erratum:

Also, we have a feature on Cape Town in South Africa, one gorgeous city. I think I will fall in love with it when we finally get to meet. It becomes prominent this year with its Table Mountain being voted into the New Seven Wonders of the World list. It was last year as the venue of the World Cup. For me, it is memorable for being one of the locations for National Geographic’s ad for its Live Curious campaign, which has a script that sounds like a prayer, a mantra: “If you are, you breathe. If you breathe, you talk. If you talk, you ask. If you ask, you think. If you think, you search. If you search, you experience. If you experience, you learn. If you learn, you grow. If you grow, you wish. If you wish, you find. And if you find, you doubt. If you doubt, you question. If you question, you understand, and if you understand, you know. If you know you, want to know more. If you want to know more, you are alive.” And a very important role of travel is making you feel alive.

Roel Hoang Manipon Editor in Chief

In the last issue of the magazine, in the article on Island Girl on page 124, the name of the owner of the resort wear and accessories brand should be Janice Uy Chua and not Rachel Uy Chua as printed. We’re sorry for this error. 8

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

ADMINISTRATIVE

EDITORIAL

CELESTINO D. UNTAL JR.

ROEL HOANG MANIPON

Chairman

Editor-in-Chief

MARIA EVELYN C. UNTAL

GESEL P. MANGILIT

Publisher/Managing Director

RUZIELL STO. TOMAS Director of Marketing and Promotions

CHIQUI TALABIS LENIE KAMANTIGUE Advertising Account Officers

FE MARCELINO Finance/Comptroller

ROSITA RAYMUNDO

Associate Editor

NEIL MARIANO Creative Director

DONALD TAPAN Chief Photographer

EILEEN CAMPOS NIÑA ELYCA RABADAM HUGO RIPLEY CEDRIC SOLIDON GREGG YAN Contributing Writers

Credit/Collection

STRATEGIC MINDS MARKETING Advertising/Business Development

TERRY DUCKHAM JOY SERRANO VIT VELASQUEZ Contributing Photographers

RHEA VILLAREAL Operations /Administration Officer

CARMINA TUNAY Editorial Assistant

DENNY ALONZO Corporate Secretary

GABRIEL AND MENDOZA Legal Counsel

INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES

CIRCULATION AITCHITO J. CONEJOS Circulation/Liaison Officer

PRISCILLA C. RAMOS Liaison Officer in Cebu

LOLITA DUBLIN Liaison Officer in Washington, DC

EVA U. TRIMBLE Liaison Officer in Columbus, Ohio

PATRICIA DUBLIN Liaison Officer in New York

CRIS VINZONS MARIA ESPERANZA SAN JOSE Liaison Officers in Dubai, UAE

NOEL D. UNTAL Liaison Officer in Thailand

JO ANNE C. MABBAYAD Liaison Officer in Singapore

JALILUL C. CONEJOS Liaison Officer in Toronto, Canada

TATAK PILIPINO STORE Circulation/Distribution in Palisade Avenue Jersey City, New Jersey

Experience Travel and Living magazine is published quarterly by Gusto Publishing, Inc., with business address at Unit T20, Sunvar Plaza, 156 Amorsolo Street, Legaspi Village, Makati City, Metro Manila, Philippines 1200. Telephone numbers: (+63 2) 227-6074, (+63 2) 384-6941, (+63 2) 377-7492 and (+63 2) 491-5159 Find us at www.issuu.com Email: editorialexperiencetravelandliving@gmail.com (editorial) experiencetravelandliving@gmail.com (advertising) Web site: www.experiencetravelandliving.com The magazine and its editors assume no responsibility for all manuscripts and photographs submitted. While every reasonable effort is made to verify information, facts and figures, the magazine and its editors assume no responsibility for errors or misrepresentations that may appear in the publication. Opinions expressed in Experience Travel and Living are solely those of the writers and not necessarily endorsed by the company and its editors. Printed in the Philippines ALL RIGHTS RESERVED No part of the magazine may be reproduced in full or in part without prior written permission from the editors.

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

A recent initiate to the late 20s demographics, Eileen Campos is a shiny, happy single mom to an inquisitive and hyperactive toddler. She is constantly striving to do justice to her occupation title of writer. With a passion for travel and an indifference to budget constraints, she started her travel blog www. PossiblyPinay.com. Other than obligatory long walks on the beach, puppies and ice cream, she also likes watching summer blockbusters, reminiscing boy band heydays and meticulously planning a detailed itinerary with several options and contingencies. She has a soft spot for and because of gummi bears.

Hugo Ripley is a specialist travel writer covering Africa and Europe for several publications including Conde Nast Traveller and GQ magazine in South Africa. Hugo has covered stories from climbing Mount Kilimanjaro to riding horses across the Kalahari and Namib deserts, and he was once attacked by a “tame” lion while doing a restaurant review for GQ, a first in the South African media! Hugo is also publisher of Ruscombe Publishing (www.ruscombepublishing.co.uk) which publishes bespoke guides to safaris, spas and wine routes for Conde Nast Traveller, Vogue and Business Traveller. He is a keen magazine designer as well as editor, and has been known to play the flute on occasions.

Terry Duckham has lived and

The next time you’re on the road and you meet a bald guy, carrying a teeny camera that looks like your grandpa’s film camera, chances are that you’ve seen Cedric Solidon. Well, if you had the wrong guy, probably the worst thing that could happen to you is a strange look from a stranger. Who’s this Cedric guy anyway? He’s from an unknown species that reportedly developed the skill to write and take photographs. People have rarely seen him in the wild, largely because of his relatively obscurity. But when they do, they will often see him in front of a laptop or with his eye on the viewfinder, taking photos of interesting people, places and cats. But mostly of cats. And although he owns a laptop, he prefers taking notes of his travels on a notebook since it doesn’t need to be powered up or recharged at the end of the day. Some reports, however, say that this Cedric thing/guy has also learned the prosaic art of blogging, writing Tweets and Tumblring. More information could be found on the inter-webs on these sites: www.galapinoyredux.com, www.twitter.com and csolid.tumblr.com. Experts say it doesn’t hurt to say “hi” to Cedric, because he doesn’t bite.

worked in Asia as a professional photographer and writer for the past 33 years. Originally from Sydney, Australia, Terry and his wife, Aira, are now based in Hong Kong and live between Hong Kong and the Philippines. His client base includes multinational corporations, international resort and hotel chains, and major media groups and magazines.

Aside writing for magazines, Excel V. Dyquiangco writes children’s stories, surfs the net a lot and travels around the country in his own pace. When he is not too busy, he spends much of his time answering emails and posting on walls. He has already co-authored a novel published and released last July, and one of his stories is also part of an anthology published by the De La Salle University. He currently lives in Quezon City with his two dogs.

Joy Serrano is a self-taught freelance photographer since 1999. His unique style of photography has earned him various clients such as CITEM, PLDT, Smart and Globe Telecommunications, Robinsons Land, Eton Philippines, Kawasaki Philippines, STI, Healthway, Solvay Pharma and Asian Hospital. He specializes in portraits, events and commercial photography.

Niña Elyca Rabadam currently works as a publication coordinator for the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA). She finds joy in road trips, watching movies and coffee-shop conversations. She is a big fan of Kazunari Ninomiya.

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

Vit Velasquez’s passion for art and travel has crystallized into photography. He is a walking camera, making mental snapshots of everything he sees wherever he goes. Whether it’s travel, commercial or fine art photography, his vision is always reflected in his images. He once said that his lens is an extension of his heart and soul. His ultimate goal is to have his own all-film photo exhibit.

POSTINGS

Southern Metro Manila, invites diners to discover the best of Chinese Northern cuisine, distinct for its use of preserved foods due to the harsh winters and short growing seasons in the region. Choose to sample from a variety of must-try specialties such as stir-fried preserved duck with seasonal vegetables, steamed chicken with two kinds of Chinese sausage, preserved duck and ham sausage with rice in clay pot, to name a few. For inquiries, call (+63 2) 771-8181 or (+63 2) 917-8718181 and (+63 2) 918-8718181.

GO | A Haven of Health Rises in Makati City

Sugarleaf formally opened the doors of its second branch in Makati City, bringing its unique take on healthy eating and living to denizens of the central business district. A partnership between Sugarleaf and the MEDICard Lifestyle Center, the new branch is located at the ground and second floors of the new building at the corner of Paseo de Roxas and Sen. Gil Puyat Avenue in Urdaneta Village. It offers the full product and service line of its Greenhills branch: a healthy, great-tasting menu optimizing organic, natural ingredients and super food, Goody Kefir probiotic food and drinks, low glycemic desserts, non-dairy coconut kefir ice cream, organic produce, mini-mart, deli and lifestyle and wellness events. Sugarleaf at the MEDICard Lifestyle Center features a sizeable retail section occupying the ground floor of the two level space, including organic produce from certified high- and lowland farms, home-made dressings, natural and organic food and non-food products, local and imported super foods and a lot more. Jello’s Coco-Kefir Ice Cream, also served at the dining room upstairs, is also available for take out. Most flavors are vegan for lactose intolerant customers. Texture and nutrition are not sacrificed as coconut milk and coco-kefir provide creaminess and beneficial probiotics. It is open Monday to Saturday, 8 A.M. to 7 P.M. Contact telephone number (+63 2) 892-7323, email gina@sugarleafph.com. Sugarleaf’s first branch is located at the ground floor of the Health Cube Building, 226 Wilson Street, West Greenhills, San Juan, Metro Manila, open 8 A.M. to 10 P.M., Mondays to Saturdays, and 8 A.M. to 2 P.M., Sundays.

EAT | Chinese Northern Specialties at the Phoenix Court

Satisfy your appetite with the flavorful dishes from the Orient as The Bellevue’s Phoenix Court, the first and only fine-dining Chinese restaurant in the

VIEW | Archival Documents and Maps at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila

“Conscripcion” is an extensive exhibition of documents and maps from the collection of the National Archives of the Philippines which show the official workings of the Spanish colonial government in the Ilocos Region in the nineteenth century. The exhibit showcases how the colonial world produced documents even as documents produce the colonial world. Featured in the show are the nineteenth-century painting series of the Basi Revolt by Esteban Villanueva, which are being brought down from Vigan, along with other precious pieces. Being exhibited for the first time is the portrait of Miguel Garcia attributed to Juan Arzeo, on loan from the Archdiocese of Nueva Segovia. All of the documents and maps featured in the exhibit are reminders of a past era, done and gone, yet the validity of their transpiration is uncompromised. Some of the records were used in the creation and governance of Ilocos from a faraway land. In this sense, this particular part of the colony was conceived through these documents are seen as “agencies of imagination.” The exhibit is a partnership between the provincial government of Ilocos Sur, the Ilocos Sur Historical and Cultural Foundation and the National Archives of the Philippines with the Metropolitan Museum of Manila and the conservation assistance of the National Museum. Workshops on Records Management, archives preservation, tour guiding, product development and heritage education are being scheduled as part of the program. “Conscripcion” runs from until January 17,

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

2012, at the Upper Galleries of the Metropolitan Museum of Manila, located at the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas Complex, Roxas Boulevard, Manila. Museum hours are from 9 A.M. to 6 P.M., Monday to Saturday. It is closed on Sundays, first Mondays of the month and on holidays. For inquiries, call (+63 2) 523-0613 or email info@metmuseum.ph. Visit www.metmuseum.ph and www.facebook.com/ met.museum.manila.

READ | First Bilingual Edition of Noli Me Tangere Launched

Noli Me Tangere, considered as the greatest Philippine novel, was launched as a bilingual book for the first time at the Instituto Cervantes. The historical bilingual edition, which is released as part of the sesquicentennial birth anniversary of its author, national hero Jose Rizal, is the result of the collaboration of Instituto Cervantes de Manila and Vibal Foundation to publish the most important Philippine book for Spanish-speaking and Englishspeaking readers today. This bilingual sesquicentennial edition reproduces the first edition (edicion principe) in its entirety. Philologist Isaac Donoso has supplemented it with over 1,200 notes on both the published Berlin edition and the original manuscript, highlighting Rizal’s additions, deletions and emendations. The original Spanish text has been printed in parallel with Charles Derbyshire’s classic English translation. Expurgated passages have been restored, thus carefully maintaining its fidelity to Rizal’s text. The textual lines of the novel have been consecutively numbered to serve as a tool for future scholars in establishing a definitive concordance.

This collector’s delight also contains an extensive bibliography, tracing the history of its manifold translations and editions. Juan Luna’s original and evocative illustrations accompany the text. This book is complemented by Rizal scholar Ambeth Ocampo’s introductory essay on the history of the Noli’s publication. Isaac Donoso provides a fresh and contemporary look into the life and works of the seminal thinker, while National Archives director Ino Manalo reframes the novel by tracing its sources in classical and Philippine art, as well as biblical and folk literature. Noli Me Tangere transcends its political agenda to become a true work of art, thus securing its rightful place in the pantheon of great world literature. With this bilingual edition, it remains as fresh, vivid, moving and subversive as on the day it was first published. For more information, call (+63 2) 526-1482 or visit http://manila.cervantes.es Instituto Cervantes de Manila is at 855 T.M. Kalaw Street, Ermita, Manila.

MARVEL | Call and Play with Sony Ericsson Xperia Play

Sony Ericsson might have just launched the hottest phone of the season, the Sony Ericsson Xperia Play, which combines the functions of the Adroid smartphone and the PlayStation. Rumors have been circulating about a “PlayStation phone,” and there was clamor for a mobile phone dedicated to gaming, particularly as Sony Ericsson is also the maker of the very popular home gaming technology PlayStation. Now, it is finally here. “The Xperia Play is primarily an Xperia Android smartphone that will have widespread appeal to a number of consumer audiences including casual and enthusiastic gamers,” said Dennis Manzano, Sony Ericsson general manager. The Sony Ericsson Xperia Play is the first handset with PlayStation controls. One can slide the lower second portion of the phone to reveal the game controls. With gaming being a $7 billion industry, Manzano believes that the Xperia Play is a “game-changing product” that will “strengthen our lead in the Adroid market.” The Xperia Play runs on Android 2.3 (Gingerbread), which was developed with gaming as one of its strategic focuses. The phone has a onegigahertz Snapdragon processor and the Adreno 205 GPU, which enables the phone to deliver

graphics at 60 frames per second. “Gingerbread is a step forward with faster and lighter processes that are easier on the processor and so use less battery. Also, the optimized Snapdragon processor with a one-gigahertz CPU is designed for minimal power consumption so Xperia Play users can enjoy long hours of battery life and game time,” Manzano added. Xperia Play comes with pre-loaded games from Sony Computer Entertainment and other leading game publishers. Other titles can be downloaded from the Android Market. These are exclusively optimized for the phone. “A pre-loaded application will enable users to easily discover and download titles that have been optimized for game play on Xperia Play, access recently played games and see information about the games they have downloaded,” Manzano informed. The preloaded game titles in the phone for the Philippine market are Bruce Lee, Crash Bandicoot, FIFA 2010, Madden NFL 11, Star Battalion, and The Sims 3. Sony Ericsson entered into a limited time exclusive agreement with EA Mobile, a division of Electronic Arts Inc., the world’s leading mobile games publisher, to bring EA Sports FIFA 12 on Android. The game will be available to the device worldwide by the holiday season. Sony Ericsson has also partnered with Tozai Games to bring the console hit and gaming franchise Lode Runner to Android for the first time. A new partnership with world renowned Square Enix will bring much-loved titles such as Lara Croft and the Guardian of Light exclusively to Android on Xperia Play this month. Even more hit titles from Square Enix will follow in the coming months. Other features of the Xperia Play are not bad. Actually, they are top-of-the-line. “It is one of the most powerful smartphones not only for gamers but also for executives,” declared Manzano. The smartphone has a 5.1-megapixel camera with auto focus and geo-tagging, Google Services, sound recorder, Noise Shield, Sony Ericsson Music Player and also supports conference calls, document readers and document editors. It also features the Sony Ericsson-exclusive Timescape, an application which allows users to view all communications from one contact such as SMS, calls or emails in one go. It sports human curvature design language, fitting in one’s hand whether taking calls, surfing the Web or gaming. The Xperia Play launches in the Philippines bundled with freebies such as a car charger, screen protector and leather case. For more information, visit www.sonyericsson.com.

STAY | Explore Passions and Expand Travel Horizons

Roomorama.com, the first online short-term home rental platform to penetrate the market in Asia, has introduced a brand new navigation feature to search travel destinations by theme. In line with Roomorama’s philosophy of providing unique and

original travel experiences to guests, the themes feature inspires travelers to embrace wanderlust and expand their travel horizons. Inviting guests to travel “just the way they want,” and believing that globe-trotters around the world are looking for a way to search and book accommodation based on their pleasures and passions, Roomorama divided popular travel interests into categories—Spiritual, Mountain Climbers, Adventure, Countryside, Lakes & Rivers, History Buff, Wine Country, Romantic, Urbanite, Sea Lovers and Events. Simply click on the theme that takes your travel fancy and be transported to dozens of accommodation options in both classic destinations as well as unexpected locales. Everyone thinks of Paris and Venice as cities of love but did you know that Melbourne, with its historic arcades, quaint laneways and lush gardens, is also a destination for romance? Browse enchanting properties in Santorini, Bali, Provence and beyond for the perfect romantic sojourn. If seeking spiritual enlightenment, satisfy your inner Zen with trips to Siem Reap, Koh Samui or Goa. History buffs can explore the grandeur of the Byzantine and Ottomon empires with a property in the shadow of Istanbul’s momentous Hagia Sophia or journey through the rise and fall of the Roman Empire with a vacation rental steps from the walls of the Coliseum. Wine lovers can book villas in the fabled regions of Tuscany, Napa Valley and Santiago de Chile, while adventure-seekers are pointed in the direction of Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia for a trek through the Gobi Desert on camel-back, Costa Rica for the surf trip of a lifetime and the Western Cape of Africa to paraglide over Cape Town. Mountain climb in Reykjavik, sail down Perth’s Swan River, take in the scenic countryside of Normandy or wine and dine in The Big Apple’s finest restaurants. Sea lovers will be tempted to choose between Mexico’s Riviera Maya and Dubrovnik’s rocky Mediterranean coast line. Truly unique is the Events category. Searching by event removes the guesswork of wondering whether a hotel will be close enough to Hampstead for the Affordable Art Fair or if you can find accommodation with a balcony view of the Tour De France. And in this cyber age, everyone is seeking a stay in one of the myriad of cities for Social Media Week. Accommodations through Roomorama are available around the world from Berlin to Sao Paolo. By catering to every taste and type, categorizing travel ideas by theme urges travelers to explore and discover something new, living like a local all the way.

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

GRAB | Toys for the Environmentally Conscious

The spirit of giving back reigns all throughout the season as Rustan’s celebrates the Yuletides with a worldly cause. Rustan’s, in collaboration with renowned plush toys manufacturer Gund, has created an exclusive 11-piece collection of endangered animal plush toys. Care for the Rare is Rustan’s latest program for the holidays that aims to target and reach the younger generations in spreading awareness for the conservation of the environment specifically the Philippine Endangered Species (PES). Supported by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), the toys are more than just a gift upon purchase as it represents various animals that need utmost attention. From October 15 until December 31, 2011, a minimum single receipt purchase of Php10,000 gives you a chance to choose any one of the 11 Gund toy designs. Just present your receipt to the concierge to claim your special gift. You may choose among Rustan’s exclusive collection of Philippine Endangered Species by Gund that features the Philippine eagle (haring ibon), bear cat (binturong), tamaraw, tarsier (mamag), warty pig (baboy ramo), blue-naped parrot (pikoy), green turtle (pawikan), mouse deer (pilandok), cloud rat (bu-ot), cockatoo (kalangay) and the whale shark (butanding). The same promotion will also be running simultaneously on Rustan’s Facebook. Upon joining the Rustan’s page, fans can share by posting a picture of their favorite animal and describing it by the virtue it represents. The most “likes” will win their chosen animal toy. To know more about this latest promo you may call Rustan’s Makati (+63 2 813-3739) Rustan’s Shangri-la Plaza Mall (+63 2 633-4636 or 50) Rustan’s Gateway (+63 2 911-2401) Rustan’s Alabang Town Center (+63 2 850-5532) Rustan’s Cebu (+63 32 231-5643). You may also visit http://www.facebook. com/rustansph for more details.

BRING | The Perfect Travel Companion for the Holidays

Canon PowerShot SX cameras make the perfect travel companion and are some of the most in-demand gift ideas this holiday season. These super zoom cameras are known to give advanced features to point-and-shoot users without the huge 16 |

price tag. Canon’s PowerShot SX40 HS has improved the image quality and functionality of its predecessor, the PowerShot SX30 IS. The highly specialized lens automatically corrects common issues users encounter when shooting from a distance. For those who are thinking of sharing their experiences on YouTube, a dedicated movie button allows instant switch to full high-definition video at cinema-quality 24 frames per second with crisp, stereo sound. Mac users need not fret about compatibility as Canon thoughtfully ensured that the SX40 HS supports Apple’s iFrame Movie format. The camera uses a 12.1-megapixel sensor and the new, faster, smarter DIGIC 5 image processor. Thanks to the new hardware, challenging photography situations like sunsets and parties can be taken with utmost confidence that colors will stay natural-looking, details will remain vibrant and your memories will be captured just as you remember them. No need to fumble through your camera’s buttons to capture the perfect scene. With the SX40’s Smart Auto function and Intelligent Image Stabilizer, fleeting moments can be captured faithfully and quickly as the camera chooses the best option out 78 presets. SX40 also features a quiet, high-precision focusing system and a highspeed Burst HQ mode that captures an astounding eight shots per second, ideal for intense moments like golf tournaments or baby’s first steps. Another option for budget-conscious holiday shoppers is the PowerShot SX 150 IS. This model is equipped with a powerful 14.1-megapixel sensor and a twelve times zoom lens. It has a large, threeinch LCD and a dedicated Movie Button to record your home movies in crystal-clear high definition. Up to 32 scenes from clear skies, backlit, to sunset can be detected by Smart Auto which automatically calibrates the camera for best results. It even has the same Intelligent Image Stabilizer technology its bigger brother, the SX40, has, empowering the camera to automatically select the optimum IS for each scene whether on still or video mode.

No need to resort to photo editing softwares on the PC; users can complement their shooting styles with the SX150’s range of creative filters including fish-eye, super vivid, toy camera/pinhole and miniature effects. The new Photo Book function even lets users categorize favorite shots in-camera

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

to easily create personalized albums. For more information about new Canon PowerShot cameras, activities, promos and other gift ideas, go to Canon.com.ph or key in Canon Digital Cameras-Philippines on Facebook.

WEAR | Make Your Presence Felt with Little Red Dress

Some would say that every woman should have a little black dress in her closet. But why stop with just the iconic black dress? Women can stand out and steal the show just as stunningly in a provocative red dress. This alluring and captivating sense of style now comes bottled in Little Red Dress, the newest fragrance from Avon.

Little Red Dress starts its slow dance of enticement with the combined appeal of berry and citrus scents. It courts the senses with luscious raspberry and titillates with saccharine plum nectar and sparkling citrus. Its middle notes caress the senses with an enchanting mix of floral scents. Hidden attractions are set ablaze with its unique concoction of Bulgarian rose, crimson jasmine, and white muguet. Little Red Dress sends the senses to a blissful trance with its warm base notes of red sandalwood, vanilla-infused amber, and elegant musk. “How does an empowered woman make her presence felt? Easy. With meticulous attention to detail, a bit of creativity, and a wild imagination, a woman is able to make any man and any one for that matter take a closer, more intimate look. It all boils down to what she’s wearing—including her fragrance. Little Red Dress sets the pace, the mood by which she shows both coy flirtation and sheer dominance,” said Elyss Punsalan, category head for fragrance of Avon Southeast Asia Cluster Marketing. Little Red Dress is available through Avon representatives nationwide. Call the Avon Customer Hotline (+63 2) 864-2900 or log on to www.avon.com.ph to find out how you can get in touch with an Avon Lady.

Spanning 2.16 kilometers, the San Juanico Bridge that connects the islands of Leyte and Samar is the longest in the country

EXPLORE

Samar

Province of

Adventure in the

By Cedric Solidon • Photos by Joy Serrano

amar is a huge island. In fact, it is so huge that the Philippine government decided to divide it into three provinces in the 1960s, namely, Samar, Northern Samar and Eastern Samar. Today’s Samar province may be significantly smaller than what it was half a century ago, but it is still big in what it has to offer to the adventurous traveler. There are plenty of opportunities, for example, to go hiking, spelunking, or simply just to enjoy the beauty of nature.

The Obelisk. Facing the Samar Provincial Capitol and within the park that bears her name is a remnant of Imelda Marcos’s penchant for building monuments.

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

Touch me not. One of the Catbalogan City's quirkiest and most eye-catching features is Rizal's bust being carried by three naked men, sculpted by local artist Miguel Alcazar in 1959.

Pieces of paradise in Jiabong. (Clockwise from top left) Entrance to the Jiabong Cave system; the river leading to the mussel farms at the Jiabong River; trekking to the caves led by Trexplore proprietor Joni Bonifacio; and majestic views inside the Jiabong Cave.

Go Spelunking

Samar prides itself in being home to one of Asia’s largest cave. The Calbiga Cave has a total area of 2,970 hectares which features some of the largest karst formations on this side of the world. And to get an idea of how large it truly is, three football fields could easily fit in one of its chambers, the Langun-Gobingob. Because of its sheer size, exploring the Calbiga Cave typically takes a couple of days, depending on how exhaustive you want your trip to be. But if that is a little too daunting for you, you can start at the relatively smaller Jiabong Cave. The journey to this cave begins with a jeepney ride from the provincial capital of Catbalogan to the drop off point several kilometers

before the Jiabong town proper. You may even opt to go “taplod” or top load, wherein you ride on top of the jeepney, which is an adventurous experience in itself, never mind that it looks dangerous. From the drop off point, you will have to hike for an hour or so before you can get to the mouth of the cave. The hike itself is awe-inspiring as it affords you picturesque vistas of surrounding mountains and takes you to a trail lined with wild grasses, rice fields and pineapple plants. You will then know that you are near the cave when you finally reach and climb down the steep downhill slope. The cave’s exterior looks unimpressive, which may look a little disappointing for some. It’s just an opening with stalactites jutting out of the ceiling. It could be quite intimidating too, as it looks like Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Follow the leader. If there's an expert on the Jiabong cave system's every nook and cranny, that would be the guy in red, Joni Bonifacio.

the earth has suddenly opened its jaws and are about to eat you alive. But get past these first impressions and you will see what really the buzz is about this cave. Light from the outside progressively fades as you get deeper, which is then replaced by the artificial light of your headlamp. As your eyes get accustomed to the darkness, you will be in for a visual treat as the calcite formations sparkle when you train your light on them. These formations come in various interesting shapes, with some resembling giant mushrooms, and others the Banaue Rice Terraces. Then there’s the underground river, which gives you a refreshingly cool respite from the sweaty experience of constantly ducking to avoid the stalactites overhead and keeping yourself steady from the slippery ground below you. Explore it further to see the cave’s ceilings that seem to go on forever and then discover a tiny hidden corner with fine, sticky mud, which you can apply on your face and skin as mud pack. 20

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Several hours into the trip, you would have been accustomed to the darkness and the cave’s tight corners. And you would be understandably hungry, too. The great thing is that you can have lunch inside the cave to recharge and regain the energy that you lost. Once you’re done, you can go on exploring the cave further until there it is the end of your journey, another mouth of the cave. You can see the trees and sunlight, and hear the birds chirp and the drops of rain as they gently fall on leaves and on the ground. You feel alive. Being back on the surface of the earth has never been this exhilarating. Your return to civilization is on a boat that will take you to the town of Jiabong. As you near the town, you will see bamboo structures along the side of the river. These are used to culture mussels, which are one of the more popular products of Jiabong. It is for this reason too that that part of the river is called Mussel River and that a monument of giant mussels grace Jiabong’s town plaza.

Raw display of power at the Lulugayan Falls. Found at the small barangay of Litiron, it's a bumpy, one-hour ride from the Calbiga town proper.

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Lulugayan Falls

Don’t like the idea of being swallowed up by the earth and swimming across underground rivers? Then there’s the Lulugayan Falls in the town of Calbiga. Found in the sleepy barangay of Litiron, you will need to hire a habal-habal (a modified local motorcycle) for Php50 to get there from the Calbiga town proper, a bumpy ride that takes about an hour. You will have to register with the barangay captain once you reach Litiron, after which they will provide you with guides who will take you to the falls. There isn’t a set fee for hiring guides, so it is best that you inquire with the barangay captain for a fair price. The path to the falls is lined with concrete blocks, but things can get quite slippery during rainy days despite these. It is therefore best that you choose footwear that does not slip easily such as hiking shoes. About fifteen minutes into the hike you will finally see the grandiose Lulugayan Falls which its powerful current feeds the Calbiga River with a constant supply of cool, fresh and clean water. You can choose to simply take in the view from the riverside or you could also cross the river below and climb up the falls. It’s not an easy climb, but not overly difficult either, so we would advise that you ask your guide to accompany you if you plan to do this.

Want to Go on an Adventure in Samar?

Spelunking in Calbiga and Jiabong, and visiting the Lulugayan Falls involve a certain amount of risk, which is why we would never advise you to do these activities on your own. Rather, we would recommend that you get in touch with local adventurer Joni Bonifacio of the adventure company Trexplore. His office is based in Catbalogan, and he can guide you or simply refer you to people you can contact if you wish to explore this part of Samar Island. Aside from that, make sure to reserve at least five days if you want to go spelunking and visit Lulugayan, while still having the time to explore the provincial capital of Catbalogan, which is also rich in history and has the creature comforts such as Internet and fast food that you may crave for after spending a great amount of time outdoors. Most importantly, have fun. After all, an adventure will never be complete without an ounce of fun in it.

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Not for the faint of heart. The Lulugayan Falls' current is so strong that it's recommended for anyone to hire a guide, especially when crossing the river below. Atop the falls, one can bathe in the Calbiga River's cool and pristine waters.

Getting There The province of Samar is on the western part of the island of Samar in the Eastern Visayas. Its capital, Catbalogan City, is on the western coast, 802 kilometers (498 miles) south of Manila. There are no commercial flights to Catbalogan City. However, the Catbalogan Airport on Biri Island is accessible to private and charter jets from Manila and elsewhere. One can fly to Calbayog in Northern Samar or Tacloban City in Leyte, then travel by land to Samar. The Tacloban route is more popular because there are more flights to the city. Catbalogan is about 60 kilometers from Tacloban, passing through San Juanico Bridge which links Leyte Island to Samar. The port of Catbalogan (Piers I and II) is classified as a national port that can handle passengers and cargoes to and from Manila, Cebu and other places. Bus transit is also a popular public land transport to Catbalogan City from Manila or Tacloban City, passing through the Pan-Philippine Highway (Maharlika Highway). Volume 7 â&#x20AC;˘ Number 4 â&#x20AC;˘ 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Biri sunset. The sun sets on the Pacific Ocean, giving Biri Island its distinct tropical glow.

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Biri Island By Cedric Solidon • Photos by Joy Serrano

You wake up one morning to find yourself greeted by the gentle crash of waves outside and the scent of salty air as it fills your lungs. You get out of bed, trying to shake off sleep from your system. As you open your windows, you see a skyline of homes dominated by thatched roofs made of nipa, many of which are installed with satellite dishes. The view arrests you. You’re not quite sure where you are. Welcome to Biri Island. Situated northwest in the province of Northern Samar, it is a quaint island dotted with nipa huts and streaked with narrow two-lane roads that could only accommodate the local habal-habal, a motorcycle modified to carry several passengers and cargo all at once. Majority of the people live off the sea, while some farm in the few flatlands found around Biri.

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But how did you get here? Chances are you arrived via the easiest route to Biri. You do this by hopping on an airplane to Catarman, riding a bus or a van to the town of Lavezares and then taking a forty-five-minute boat ride from there to the island. You might also have opted to get on a boat from Matnog, Sorsogon, and enjoy the view of Mount Bulusan up north and Biri down south. No matter how you got to Biri, there’s still one question that you need to figure out: what do you do when you’re finally here? Let’s start with its most popular attraction, the Biri Rock Formations.

The Biri Rock Formations

These rock formations are what literally put Biri on the tourist map. Like massive forts, they dominate the horizon along with the vast patches of mangroves that complete the vista of green vegetation, grey rocks and blue skies. The sight is so fantastic that various Filipino directors have chosen this area as locations for their movies. Even landscape photographers visit this place just to capture the sunrise. Nobody knows exactly how these rock formations came to be. Asking locals if they have legends of the origins of these formations turns out empty. So far, all people know is that the shapes of these rocks were carved by millennia of crashing waves from the Pacific Ocean coming from the east and the changing tides of the San Bernardino Strait up north where seventy percent of the water that goes in and out of the Visayas region passes. The long-held mysteries of these rocks may soon be revealed, however, once geologists from the University of the Philippines in Diliman complete their analysis of the rock samples they took in April 2011. But Biri isn’t just about the rock formations. The truth is there are many other attractions you can find here, especially if you love nature and adventure.

Diving in Biri

Once you have enjoyed the view from the surface of the sea, Biri also has marine sanctuaries where you can dive in and see the marine life teeming below. Most of these dive sites are found west of the island, including the Garon Wall 2, Magnatuka West Marine Sanctuary, the North and South Biri House Reef, and the Sawangan Reef. To really enjoy the dive sites around the island, however, you 26

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need to contact local diving companies who can guide you through these sites, and even organize diving trips for you.

Feel the Fiesta Mood in Biri

From the rock formations to the San Bernardino Strait, to its dive sites, the sea is so much a part of the local community in Biri that they have a festival in honor of its bounty, particularly of a certain marine creature found here. The Kaway Festival refers to the tentacles of the several species of octopi that call Biri their home. It is celebrated every 23 to 24 of June, featuring a rich mix of activities that include a street dance parade, a cook fest, literary competitions and the recently added feature, the Search for the Binibing Biri beauty contest. The festival has its religious roots too as it is also celebrated in

Facing the Philippine Sea's deep, blue-green waters, the scenic Biri Rock Formations have become a favorite location of some of the Philippines' most famous directors.

honor of the island’s patron saint, Vincent Ferrer. Another religious festival celebrated on this island is the feast of Santo Nino, held every last Sunday of January. It is a festival that’s as colorful as the Kaway Festival, since it features dance exhibitions and fluvial parades that honor the child Jesus. All these festivities make for a livelier stay on the otherwise sleepy island town.

Sleeping in Biri

Unlike more popular tourist spots, there aren’t many established accommodations on this island. In fact, there are currently only three hotels that could provide you with almost all of the comforts of home: Bluewater Lodge, Villa Amor and Biri Resort. Staying overnight at any of these hotels could set you back up to Php3,500. However, if you are traveling on a tight budget, there are plenty Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Island Life with modern comforts. The Biri Resort is one of the more popular resorts on the island with amenities such as air-conditioned units and satellite TV.

of locals who offer home-stay arrangements for as little as Php150 per night. The great thing about this is that you get to experience how the locals live, such as their loyalty to a particular TV station (it used to be dominated by Kapusos, according to a local, though more are moving to the Kapamilya camp) and their penchant for video singko videoke bars; join fishermen when they set out to sea; or even just share a cold bottle of beer or two with them after a hard day’s work. Now if a hundred and fifty pesos is still a little too exorbitant for you, you can choose to camp at one of Biri’s rock formations north of the island. There is no fee for camping there, although this may eventually change in the near future as the local government is planning on charging an environmental tax to visitors of the island. But whatever you do in Biri, or wherever you decide to stay here, just don’t expect to be partying all night—not yet at least. That’s because the island currently enjoys only twelve hours of electricity, from noon until midnight, although it will eventually be available for sixteen and then twenty-four hours. The northern tip of the island may also be converted into an entertainment district complete with bars, according to some locals. For now, however, it is a fantastic time to visit Biri and to see it for what it really is—an unspoiled paradise of natural attractions, gently crashing waves, starlit nights and friendly locals who are more than happy to share their homes and their lives with you.

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During low tide, tourists can simply walk across from Biri Island to the Rock Formations. Hiring guides and habal-habals are recommended to reach this area.

Guiuan's surfing paradise. Twenty minutes from the Guiuan town proper is Calicoan Island, a popular surfing spot among locals and foreigners alike.

Guiuan, Eastern Samar

Where Even Streets Have Stories to Tell

By Cedric Solidon • Photos by Joy Serrano

ocated at the southernmost tip of the province of Eastern Samar is Guiuan. It is currently popular as one of the most happening surfing spots in the Philippines because of its location, facing the Pacific Ocean. At the end of the year, waves start to swell as winds coming from the east blow strongly against Guiuan’s shores. While you may be pardoned to think that Guiuan is all about surfing, palm trees and beaches, the town offers so much beyond your typical tropical paradise experience. Here are just some of the other activities that you can pursue there:

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Experience History

A religious haven. The well-preserved interiors of the Immaculate Conception Church in Guiuan (top); a statue of Saint Anthony of Padua, Sulangan's patron saint (inset); and the facade of Guiuan's Spanish-era church (above).

Guiuan is considered as one of the more historical places in Eastern Samar. One of its islands, Homonhon, is said to be the first Philippine island that Ferdinand Magellan saw when he reached the archipelago. Some even claim that the first mass was actually held there, a claim that remains debatable until this day. Another island, Tubabao, is where the so-called White Russians stayed for three years in the mid-twentieth century after fleeing their “Red” communist homeland. The town also used to be a massive American naval base in World War II. Today, remnants of the base are still evident, such as the old airport, a part of which is where the current Guiuan airport is situated. There are also the old concrete roads built by the Americans that still bear marks of the tracks of tanks that used to be stationed there. Little details like these make Guiuan a place so rich in history that even its roads have stories to tell. Of course, the Spanish also left their mark here, just like most parts of the Philippines. And when it comes to remnants, the largest one left by the Spanish colonizers is the Immaculate Conception Church that still stands today. Its original wooden main door still welcomes the faithful to the church’s interior that is adorned by antique paintings on the ceiling and decorations made of coral on the walls of the side chapels. There is even a rumor still popular today that former First Lady Imelda Marcos offered to buy the main door, which the priests and locals vehemently refused. The church also formed a part of the massive fortification built by the Spaniards to protect the locals from Moro raiders. Parts of the walls still stand today including the one between the belfry and the church itself. Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

More reasons to relax. (Clockwise from above, left) The Surf Camp in Calicoan; another view from The Surf Camp; surf huts at the Calicoan Villa; and the dining area at the iconic Tanghay View Lodge, facing Tubabao Island.

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A bit of science. Get a fantastic view of Guiuan atop a hill at the PAGASA Weather Station (left). Plus, listen to a short lecture on weather from the station's resident maintenance engineer, Marianito Macaso.

Go Island-Hopping

Now if you’re tired of the same old island-hopping experience offered by other Philippine tourist spots, then you’ll be in for an entirely different thrill when you go island-hopping in Guiuan. The town has several outlying islands that are only accessible by boat. The historic islands of Homonhon and Tubabao are only two of these islands. So makes island-hopping in Guiuan different? The seas tend to be choppy especially during the latter parts of the year when the habagat blows from the Pacific, creating huge waves that are sometimes several stories high. It’s like riding on a rollercoaster, only you’re on a boat, and the tracks are replaced by the world’s largest ocean. This kind of experience makes visiting Guiuan’s islands a more exciting—if not a little frightening—experience.

Deepen Your Faith

It is said that you will find in Guiuan some of the most religious people in Eastern Samar. This claim may be true or not, but what’s sure is how contagious the religious atmosphere is when you visit this town.

Step into the Immaculate Conception Church at the heart of Guiuan for example, and it’s difficult not feel awed by the religion and history that surrounds you with its Spanish-era interiors. You can almost imagine people in the nineteenth century in their traditional Filipino dresses and women with their mantilla head covering as they attend mass or pray the rosary, while light from the outside casts deep and dramatic shadows on the interior. Meanwhile, if you have special favors to ask from the heavens, locals would recommend that you visit the pilgrimage site of the Shrine of San Antonio de Padua in Sulangan. It is said that prayers here are granted through the intercession of the saint after which the church was named. Both locals and tourists alike swear by the power of requesting favors in this barangay in Guiuan, including prayers of students to pass board exams and of couples to have a baby. And if your prayer is answered, locals would recommend that you return to Sulangan to show your gratitude. Once you have said your prayers, you can then remove your religious hat and wear your touristy one after you step out of the church. There are many small stalls there that sell necklaces and other accessories made of locally-sourced shells for as low as Php10.

The Belvedere Park and Beach Resort in Guiuan's serene landscape is perfect for family outings and gatherings.

After the sand and surf, enjoy the sun and burp. (Clockwise from left, below) The ABC Beach at Calicoan Island, and great eats and al-fresco dining at the Tanghay Lodge.

How to Go and Where to Stay in Guiuan

To enjoy all the historical, religious and island-hopping experiences Guiuan has to offer, you of course have to get there first. It begins with a plane ride from Cebu or Manila to Tacloban, from where you will ride a van that will take you to Guiuan. Plans are underway to put the Guiuan Airport in operation although there is no set timeframe when this will push through, if it will push through. Accommodations are aplenty in Guiuan too, as local tourism is steadily picking up. Some popular ones include the Tanghay Lodge and Belvedere in Guiuan, and the Calicoan Villa in Calicoan Island. However, the current challenge that keeps Guiuan from being completely on every tourist’s dream destination is with regards to accessibility. The trip from Tacloban to Guiuan takes about three hours, which also includes a poorly-maintained stretch of road several kilometers before the town. That said, making the airport finally operational will definitely increase tourist entries into this town where the island of Samar literally ends. Despite this challenge, though, it is still worth checking Guiuan out, especially if you want to explore it before it changes completely once tourists start pouring in. Do that so that you too will have your share of stories to tell about its historic roads, beautiful beaches and its deep faith. 34 |

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people wear regular clothes. More than the clothes, though, he’s a thoroughly knowledgeable guide when it comes to Samar’s fantastic caves that include Calbiga’s Langun-Gobingob cave system, which is important since this cave system is the largest in the Philippines, and it takes days to explore it completely. Before any caving trip, Joni briefs his group about safety. And although it may seem that he just reads it off from his printed laundry list of safety tips, he actually explains each tip thoroughly to the group, ensuring that every member understands how to stay safe whenever inside the complex maze of the cave. Got questions? Joni, a soft-spoken guy, will explain it to you as clearly as possible and with a smile. Of course, knowledge of the trails and love of adventure can only get one so far. He has one more secret that’s made him exceptionally successful: his marketing savvy.

A Relentless Marketer

Joni Bonifacio Samar’s Adventure Guy By Cedric Solidon • Photos by Joy Serrano So you want to go spelunking in Samar? Chances are that your trip will be organized by only one guy: Joni Bonifacio. Since 2000, he has been organizing caving and other outdoor trips for people with adventurous spirits through his company Trexplore. Although Trexplore is pretty much a one-man operation, Joni has built a reputation as Samar’s poster boy for adventure and eco-tourism. He’s also been featured in Lonely Planet’s Philippine guidebook since its 2006 edition. Which isn’t bad for something that started out as a hobby. According to him, he got the outdoor bug some fifteen years ago when he got into spelunking, which has since become a way of life for him. Today, he operates his company in downtown Catbalogan where he also sells souvenir items and adventure gear from local and international brands.

Joni uses the power of the Internet to spread the word about his company and outdoor tours. Just type in something as simple as “caving in the Philippines” in Google and you’ll mostly find results that point to his numerous Multiply pages. And in Multiply, there are photos of every spelunking trip he’s led, plus information on how to reach him. Simple yet powerful. He’s also on Facebook, which is great if you’d like to reach him as quickly as possible since he’s often online there. Which explains where his free time goes. When not leading caving trips, “I just stay at my shop, always in front of the computer posting pictures of my trips and promoting Samar online.” Truly, Joni has done a fantastic job at promoting Samar as an eco-adventure destination. When asked what drives him to do this, his answer is simple: “Samar can offer the ultimate caving adventure. That’s why I’m promoting the island as the caving capital of the Philippines.” Well said, and there’s no arguing about that statement.

Contact Information To contact Joni Bonifacio about his adventure trips, you may call him at (+63 55) 251-2301 or +63919-2943865; email him at address trexplore@yahoo.com; or add him at Facebook, Joni Abesamis Bonifacio.

Not Your Average Tour Guide

Joni is not difficult to spot when you’re meeting him for the first time. After all, he’s probably the only one you’ll see wearing outdoor clothing such as Jack Wolfskin in a town where majority of the Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

EXPERIENCE

The Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company, in operation since 1929, transports visitors to the top of Cape Townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous landmark, the Table Mountain

A statue of a lion looks out to the sea and mountains in the Seidelburg Wine Estate, Cape Wine Route, Paarl, Western Cape Province.

Cape Town W By Hugo Ripley

hichever way one approaches the city of Cape Town, whether by plane, train or automobile, the city’s most enduring, unmistakeable feature immediately rises up in front of you like Poseidon from the blue-grey waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Its extraordinary, flat-topped outline adorns the covers of every guide book, every postcard and every Web site to do with the “Mother City” of South Africa. Table Mountain is everywhere you look, wherever you are in this most beautiful of cities. It was, of course, the first thing that the city’s founding father, Jan van Riebeeck, saw when he sailed into Table Bay in 1652, and Table Mountain is said to have taken the Dutchman’s breath away. He looked no further for the site of the fort he intended to build, a natural harbor location that would bestride the confluence of the Atlantic and Indian oceans on the southern tip of the African continent, a site so vital to the Dutch East India Company’s trade with the East. Van Riebeeck found numerous nomadic Khoisan tribesmen in the area herding their nguni cattle, but the fort which the Dutchman built was the foundation stone of the city we see today. Fast forward three and a half centuries, via numerous pitched battles for supremacy between the British and the Dutch over the vital Cape trading route, and the city of today is a thoroughly modern city. It is populated by three million people, one third of Dutch origin, one third English and one third “colored,” the descendants of the

early settlers’ co-habitations with the Khoisan. They inhabit a location that is widely considered the most beautiful geographical position of any city anywhere in the world. Running from the back of the magisterial, towering presence of Table Mountain, is a ridge of mountains, The Twelve Apostles, which form the backbone of the city. These mountains plunge down dramatically from on high into the Atlantic Ocean on the city’s western side, and into the Indian Ocean on its eastern side. The bays, coves and beaches formed underneath these mountains are the most desirable places in the city to live. The suburbs of Camps Bay, Clifton and Llandudno, along the famously scenic Victoria Drive that heads south from the city, are also the most valuable real estate in Africa. Cape Town is a city of views. There are glorious vistas and giant skies wherever you look. Around the slopes of these verdant mountains, modern day Cape Town is home to world-class restaurants, famous vineyards, exquisite spa retreats and luxurious hotels… all built with sensational views of mountains, forests, sandy flatlands and seas. Even the stadium built for last year’s triumphant football World Cup has been acclaimed a triumph of architecture, seamlessly melding in with the surrounding views of the sea like a giant cruise ship. The city is still basking in the glory of their World Cup, an event which united a nation that has been famous over the past thirty years for its disunity. Last year’s celebration of the world’s favorite sport saw the entire city receive a Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

The Seidelberg Wine Estate in Paarl

The famous Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens is at the foot of Table Mountain

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major face lift. You will arrive in Cape Town at a brand new airport, you will drive into town along newly-built highways, and more than likely you will find yourself staying at one of Cape Town’s sparkling new hotels. The most popular places to stay in the city are around the Waterfront (www.waterfront.co.za), a complex of trendy shops, restaurants and bars, built out of the old harbor buildings in the early 1990s, which has today become the city’s number-one tourist spot. There are famous hotel’s galore there too: the Cape Grace (www.capegrace.com) where Bill Clinton stayed on his presidential visit to the city, the Table Bay (www.tablebay-hotel.co.za) where Michael Jackson stayed on his tour of the country, and the brand new One&Only Cape Town (www.oneandonlyresorts. com), already known as the chicest place to stay in the city. In the city itself more cost effective boutique hotels are often a better bet. Kensington Place (www.kensingtonplace. co.za), nestled in the City Bowl under the looming Table Mountain, with only eight rooms, is very popular. There is a new Holiday Inn (www.holidayinn.com ) in town, and no mention of Cape hotels is complete without mentioning the venerable Nellie, as the grand old dame of Cape hotels, The Mount Nelson (www.mountnelson.co.za), is known. Even if you don’t stay there, Tea at the Nellie, voted the best tea in the world last year, is an absolute must. With a base established, the visitor to the Cape has an

The Camps Bay is known for its white sandy beaches

The Franschoek Winelands in Franschoek, Cape Wine Route

unparalled list of attractions to tick off. At the Waterfront, the Nelson Mandela Gateway serves as the jumping off point for visitors to the former prison island of Robben Island, South Africa’s Alcatraz. Mandela, affectionately known as Madiba by South Africans, was released from prison in 1990, after 18 years incarcerated on Robben Island, an event which eventually led to the collapse of the hated apartheid regime, and his becoming the first black president of the country after the countries first democratic elections in 1994. The hydrofoils at the gateway whizz visitors to the

island, visible on the horizon, in about twenty minutes, where on arrival a former political inmate of the prison will show you around the island, which was also once a leper colony, visiting Mandela’s former cell, the cave in a quarry known as The University of Robben Island where the ANC prisoners would meet illegally to discuss the struggle against apartheid. It’s a highly emotional place to visit and a real symbol of the reconciliation the country has made, which is in effect a lasting symbol of Mandela’s unique vision of peace which prevented the country drifting into civil war in the Nineties. Sailing back to the mainland one gets a real sense of how the early mariners would have felt entering the harbor for the first time. With the massive mountain looming high above, it takes a hardy soul to resist the temptation to ascend the mountain. There are two ways of getting up Table Mountain. There’s the mechanized method via the cableway, reached by driving through the center of town and up the vertiginous Kloof Nek Road and buying a ticket for the dramatic near-vertical cable car ride to the top (not recommended for vertigo sufferers). Or there’s the old fashioned method: your very own two feet, which is a real achievement for the fit and adventurous, that takes about one and a half hours (The path also starts from the cableway station). Whichever way you ascend, the top of the mountain, at 1,025 metres high, provides a breathtaking panorama of the entire Cape Peninsula. Cape Point, the southern tip of the peninsula, is visible to the south, and the glorious beaches of the Atlantic Seaboard stretch out along the mountains seemingly directly below your feet. As one looks down on the city and its high-rise buildings, the busy port and the suburbs stretching into the distance, it’s hard to miss an enormous green space sloping its way up from Newlands towards the tops of the mountains. This is Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, created in 1913 and the world’s first botanical garden solely dedicated to the protection of the Cape’s unique floral kingdom. The Fynbos, or “fine bush” in English, is the smallest of the world’s six floral kingdoms, and many of the plants on the Table Mountain chain grow nowhere else on earth. It is often quoted there are more species of plants just on that one mountain than in the whole of the Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

United Kingdom. And Kirstenbosch, especially in the Cape spring (September to November), is the place to marvel in it. The visitor can walk for miles along undulating paths through huge beds of flowering ericas (600 different species), proteas (80 varieties) and heavy-scented buchus (135 species). The sights and smells, with the ever-present backdrop of the mountain, are a joy. There are nurseries, galleries, exhibitions of Zimbabwean stone sculpture, and if you’re lucky enough to be there on a Sunday evening in summer, sunset classical concerts are timed to coincide with the backdrop of the twinkling lights of the city as the sun dips behind the Overberg Mountains. The Overberg literally means “over the mountains” and is the name given to the giant blockade of mountains to the east that prevented travel for the early settlers. Today there are dramatic mountain passes that lead to one of the most popular destinations in South Africa, the Cape Winelands. For not only is this the place to find their famous New World wines, its is also where the best chefs in the country ply their trade. And if you were to go there right now you’d be arriving in the middle of a centuries old rivalry for gastronomic superiority in the Winelands. About an hour from Cape Town by car, the Frenchfounded Franschhoek (meaning “French corner”) has been the undisputed culinary capital of South Africa for the past fifteen years, with five or so of the top ten restaurants in the country situated there. The names of Le Quartier Francais, Reuben’s and Grand Provence have almost singlehandedly put South Africa on the global culinary map. But just recently, their deadly rival Stellenbosch, a much more Dutch-originated town in the next door valley, has dethroned many of the great Franschhoek restaurants with some fantastic places to eat. If you walk around the oak-lined streets and glorious gables of the Cape Dutch colonial buildings of Stellenbosch, you’ll find places innumerable to sit on the sidewalk and watch as the tranquil townsfolk pass by. It’s home to the biggest Afrikaans university in the country, and it has an 40

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unsurprisingly youthful vibrancy. The best examples of Afrikaner cuisine, including bobotie (a spicy minced meat dish) and tomatie breedie (a tomato stew), can be found at the D’Ouwe Werf (www.ouwewerf.co.za ) and De Volk’s Kombhuis (www.volkskombuis.co.za) in town. While for delicious modern African fare, head to Moyo at the Spier Wine Estate. This is more theatrical production than dining experience. Face painting, beating marimba bands, tables in trees and warrior tribesmen for waiters all make for an absorbing evening. The food, served in giant Moroccan tents, is from all over Africa: delicious tagines from the North, chicken yassa from West Africa, dukkah and calamari dophi from Arab East Africa and traditional Karoo lamb from the nearby giant Karoo semi-desert between Cape Town and Johannesburg. Stellenbosch has always outstripped Franshchhoek though as the undisputed winemaking capital of the country. The famous Bordeaux-style blends of the scenic Cape Dutch vineyards are open for tastings during the weekdays, mostly open to all but some by appointment only. Head to Rust-en-Vrede (www.rustenvrede.com) for one of the best wine farm experiences. The new restaurant there of the same name is the country’s number one at the

A cable car can carry 65 people.To date, the Cableway has transported over 20 million people to the summit of Table Mountain (top). A winemaker tastes the brandy in KWV Wine Estate in the Paarl Valley (above).

The KWV Cathedral Cellar at the Paarl Wine Emporium is a sight to behold (left). Camps Bay attracts a large number of foreign visitors as well as South Africans during summer (below, left). Chocolate and wine tasting can be experienced at KWV Wine Estate (below).

moment (but needless to say it’s also quite expensive!) but their red Estate Wine is well worth a purchase. Meerlust (www.meerlust.com) is another gorgeous place to visit, and don’t forget to taste their Meerlust chardonnay and the Rubicon red blend. Tokara (www.tokara.co.za) and Thelema (www.thelema.co.za) are both sited at the top of the dramatic Helshoogte Pass, looking down into the Franschhoek Valley, and both have wondrous tasting facilities and wines, to go with the jaw-dropping vistas. While at Tokara visitors can take a break from all this tasting for lunch at the restaurant, a place that has just hired Richard Carstens, a well-known South African celebrity chef, and the quality of their lunches are expected to reach stellar levels. As in Stellenbosch, the best restaurants in Franschhoek are sited on the wine farms. La Petite Ferme (www. lapetiteferme.co.za) on the pass above the distinctly French feeling town will offer you a glass of sparkling wine on their

lawn to have before lunch with probably the best view in Africa. It’s a magical setting as the vines and fruit orchards stretch away below you for miles. French fare is also served in a fantastic al fresco setting at Mon Plaisir (www. monplaisir.co.za) on the Chamonix wine estate. Down in the town, founded by French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution in the seventeenth century, visitors can sample (and even make their own) homemade chocolates at the Huguenot Fine Chocolate Shop (www.huguenotchocolates. com), or sample fabulous local seafood in the Salmon Bar (www.salmonbar.com) and, if the urge demands, embark on a horseback wine tasting tour of the local vineyards with Paradise Stables (www.paradisestables.co.za). There are lots of boutiques selling local artworks and African sculptures dotted all along the high street and numerous jewellery studios if you’re looking for something sparkling for a loved one. Talking of shopping, the locals back in Cape Town share an obsession with most of the rest of the world with shopping malls, and the city’s largest and most popular are the aforementioned Waterfront, Cavendish Square in Claremont and Century City near Goodwood. International brands can be found here but probably not at the same level as say Singapore or Hong Kong, because South Africa endured many years of trade isolation and sanctions from the world due to apartheid. Consequently, South Africa came up with many innovative industries of their own in that time, and you’ll see many high quality “home-grown” fashion, craft and interior brands at the malls. Food lovers will be in heaven at the Saturday morning market at the Old Biscuit Mill (www.theoldbiscuitmill. co.za) in Woodstock which is excellent for fresh, organic foods and unique, locally-made products. The Sunday craft market in Hout Bay is the place for handmade local arts and crafts, and for South African art it is worth taking a drive down to Kalk Bay and Simons Town (one hour from the city) where there are lots of small galleries and studios. The market at Greenmarket Square, off Longmarket Street in the CBD, is worth a visit for African curios and gifts. Visitors will get a real taste of a traditional African

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The Hout Bay Harbour in Cape Town

The Le Petite Ferme Franschoek Spa in Franschoek

bustling market place, where bargaining is often possible, particularly if buying a few items. Nearby Long Street also has a number of curio shops, mixed with local boutiques, and book and music stores. Popular Cape Town souvenirs include African masks, colourfully-printed fabric and clothing, and carvings made of wood and soapstone. And not forgetting, overseas travellers can claim back valueadded tax (14 percent) at the refund kiosk in Cape Town International Airport on presentation of all receipts. Of course there are some great dining experiences to be had in Cape Town too, from the top luxury end of the restaurants of Uitsig and La Colomb (www. constantia-uitsig.com) in Constantia if you are in need of a celebration (you guessed it, both are on wine farms), to the undiscovered gem Biesmiellah (www.biesmiellah.co.za), a halaal restaurant in the old Cape Malay quarter of the Bo-Kaap which does not serve alcohol. Traditional boboties 42

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A Cape Dutch gable at the Clouds Wine Estate in Stellenbosch

with fruity yellow rice vie with bayleaf-rich crayfish curries for the most popular dishes. There are no fancy trimmings here, and you are encouraged to eat with your hands by Mr. O, the owner. You can also go to watch the firing of the noon day gun on Signal Hill— just above the restaurant— before tucking in to lunch, and not forgetting the wonderful new L’Apero restaurant at the eccentric Grand Daddy Hotel (www.granddaddy.co.za) in a beautiful old colonial building on Long Street. There’s a rooftop Airstream Trailer Park where patrons can take lunch between the caravans (and stay in one of them, if you wish), before returning to the ground floor and L’Apero whose Mediterranean cuisine is the talk of the town at the moment.

The goat tower at Fairview Wine and Cheese farm is a landmark in the Paarl winelands of South Africa (right). One can enjoy outdoor spa treatments in Franschoek (below).

Driving around the peninsula, visitors also cannot fail to miss the city’s recent infatuation with well-being and all things healthy. The city’s perfect Mediterranean climate and abundance of spring waters rolling off the mountains makes Cape Town the perfect place to get your chakras back in balance. There are spas galore in the major hotels, normally in stunning locations, and at a fraction of the cost of other destinations. Among the most widely lauded is the spa at the 12 Apostles Hotel (www.12apostleshotel.com) where, with dramatic Atlantic views all around, guests can achieve pampering nirvana indulging in their signature Fynbos Floral treatment in an open-air gazebo, preceded by a dip in their bubbling hydrotherapy plunge pool. In Mouille Point, near Sea Point, a local’s favorite is the affordable Elixir Spa at 87 Beach Road and also the S.k.i.n Spa (www.skinonline.co.za) at the Waterfront, where stone therapies and Indian head massages are specialities. If you are heading out to the Winelands, there are many destination spas, among them the Sante Spa (www. skinonline.co.za) near Franschhoek which specializes in wine-based treatments such as Theravine therapy using grape seeds and vine leaves, a Spafari wellness journey through the region, and a VinAqua therapy which includes being wrapped in cabernet grapes! One of Cape Town’s other great soothing holistic experiences is the good old-fashioned evening stroll along the seafront at Sundowner time. This is a long-seated tradition when locals head for the Atlantic seaboard beaches (Camps Bay, Clifton and Llandudno) after work to catch the last rays of the sun, play volleyball or just relax in laidback Capetonian style with beer in hand. In the summer months everyone spills out onto the beaches and bays for strolls along the esplanade between the lighthouse at Mouille Point and Sea Point, or wanders along the path above the four beautiful beaches of Clifton. Amongst the rocks of the beach here is legendary sundowner bar La Med which plays host to the bold and the beautiful to a backdrop of the sphinx-like mountain, Lions Head. Walkers and talkers stroll the bars and shops of the Camps Bay seafront (dodging the hundreds of joggers in this fitness fanatic nation). Families take their kids, dogs, Frisbees and their favorite tipple down to Llandudno Beach for candlelit picnics; hikers appear from the mountains; snorkellers appear out of the sea; and everyone joins in the beautiful tradition of sundowners as the magnificent sunset arcs away into the Atlantic Ocean.

Acknowledgments The magazine thanks the invaluable support and assistance of Gizelle Baadjies, Michaela Stander and Helene Oosthuizen for the winelands of South Africa articles; Hugo Lambrechts, Deputy Head of Mission and counsellor of the South African embassy in Manila; Ambassador Agnes Nyamande–Pitso of the South African embassy; and Cate Mason and Natasha van der Merwe of www.greatstock.co.za for the photographs.

A Tradition of Winemaking at the

Jordan Wine Estate

ordan Wine Estate is at the end of Stellenbosch Kloof in Vlottenburg on the Cape Town side of Stellenbosch. The farm was purchased in 1982 by the Jordan family and is one of the only farms in Stellenbosch having North-, South-, East- and West-facing slopes. Historically, the original name of the farm was Kanonkop. There is an old signal canon at the top of the hill circa 1762. Being the first signal canon in line from Cape Town, when ships were sighted in Table Bay, the canon in Cape Town was fired, then the one at the top of Jordan and so on. One can still hear the noonday gun fired from Signal Hill every day at twelve. Gary and Kathy Jordan haven’t always been making wine. Gary Jordan’s great grandfather came from England and established the shoe industry in South Africa, and the family tradition was continued by his descendents. However, as Gary has always said, they came to realize that they spent a lot of time walking barefoot and paying too much for their wine, so something had to change. When Ted Jordan retired from Jordan Shoes in 1982, he purchased the current property and started developing the property with Gary. There are now about 105 hectares of vineyards planted on the 146-hectare property.

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The vineyards of Jordan

Gary and Kathy Jordan have been making world-class wines since 1993 on a farm with a history of over 300 years. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a geologist, and sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an economist. Together this husband and wife team is a phenomenon. Garyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s parents, Ted and Sheelagh, bought the 146-hectare Stellenbosch property in 1982 and embarked on an extensive replanting program, specializing in classic varieties suited to the different soils and slopes. From the Jordan hillside vineyards, one has spectacular panoramic views of Table Mountain, False Bay and Stellenbosch. Gary and Kathy worked internationally for two years, refining their high-energy instincts with practical experience. They returned home to build a cellar in 1992. The following year the vines were judged ready for making wines that would carry the Jordan name. From that first year it was obvious that a new star had been added to the winemaking firmament. Continuing success has enlarged the team, with the focus on producing fiercely individual wines that combine the fruity accessibility of the New World with the classic elegance of the Old. From their start of 6000 cases in 1993, Jordan has grown to be one of the leading wineries on the Stellenbosch Wine Route today. Sixty percent of the production is sold locally, mostly to top restaurants, game lodges and specialist stores, with forty percent being exported. The unique situation of the farm has enabled them to specialize in both red and white varieties. Varieties requiring cooler conditions were planted high up on the south and east facing slopes and the varieties requiring warmer conditions on the north and west facing slopes. Not only has this given Jordan a spectacular view of Cape Town, Table Bay, Table Mountain, Constantia,

The restaurant of Jordan Wine Estate

Durbanville, False Bay, Stellenbosch and Agter Paarl, but having hillside vineyards ranging between 160 meters and 410 meters above sea-level has resulted in a wide range of specific microclimates suited for different varieties. The Jordan philosophy is simple: Success begins in the vineyards. Exceptional wines are made possible by careful management of the farm’s extensive natural assets through innovative canopy management and selecting varieties and clones specifically suited to the various soils and slopes. The vineyards with their close proximity to both the Indian and Atlantic Oceans benefit from coastal fog and cool breezes. A mild Mediterranean climate with a maritime influence minimizes the risk of frost damage. For varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, which are very sensitive to temperature at 46

time of harvest they ensure that these grapes are harvested in the cooler, early hours of the morning and are brought into the cellar immediately, so that they can retain the intensity of the fruit flavors found in the vineyards. The soils at Jordan have evolved from 600-million-year-old Cape granite and range from deep, well-drained clay-loam to gravelly and sandy duplex soils situated on clay. The Jordan philosophy combines the vineyards’ natural assets with innovative management, creating a profound expression of terroir. It also includes a profound respect for nature with a selection of indigenous flora and fauna to be found on the farm. Excavation for the cellar, as well as much of the building works, was done by the Jordans themselves. The cellar is based

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on a gravity-flow design and features some of the best equipment available today. The underground cellar is used exclusively for Chardonnay fermentation, as well as for storage of 180 000 bottles of wine. A separate barrel cellar is used for barrel ageing for merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The cellar is an elegant yet bold fusion of Old and New World architectural ideas. State-of-the-art, practical and functional, the high-tech elements blend easily with the forces of nature. The cellar is designed around a gravity flow system using natural cooling through recessing the cellar into the slope of the mountain. The chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc barrels are filled by gravity by putting hoses from the tanks, through special cavities in the floor directly above the barrels.

Stainless steel fermentation tanks, varying in capacity, enable fruit from individual vineyards to be vinified separately. Tanks are jacketed with cooling bands to ensure controlled fermentation and storage temperatures. The barrel-fermented white wines are made according to classic Burgundian methods. Fermentation takes place in the coolest area of the underground cellar. Separate barrel cellars are designated for merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and shiraz, where the wines mature and undergo malolactic fermentation in Bordeaux-shaped barrels. Their approach to their barrel fermented Chardonnay is one of minimal interference in that they add no sulfur dioxide to the wine until after the wine has gone through malolactic fermentation, just prior to blending and bottling. Because of this, they have a James Bond 007 approach to the lees (“shaken, not stirred”) in that instead of doing batonage on the wines in the barrel they prefer to bung the barrels tightly and then roll them shaking gently as they do so, to mix the lees into the wine. Because of this they ferment their Chardonnay on a single layer in the underground cellar. They also do not give the Chardonnay skin contact prior to pressing as they believe eight month skin contact in the vineyards is sufficient for flavor. Their red grapes are crushed into large, suspended, overhead stainless steel tanks where they ferment. This tank system aids the removal of skins for pressing as the skins fall by gravity into the press below. This system prevents the breaking up of skins before pressing which would result in tannic, astringent red wines. Barrels are also filled by gravity. Particularly for the merlot, but with our Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc as well, they choose to put the young wines to barrel immediately after, or towards the end of fermentation, where the wines can go through malolactic fermentation in the barrel. This contact with the wood tannins from an early stage results in better stability and brilliance in color and softer tannins and more integrated fruit and wood flavors, creating wines that can be drunk early, but have great ageability as well To ensure the highest level of quality, all wine is bottled and labeled on site, thus completing the circle from vineyards to wine. Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

The

Glorious Heritage of

Spier

ating back to 1692, Spier is one of South Africa’s oldest wine farms. Its rich cultural heritage includes a restored manor house (with National Monument status), an impressive collection of Cape Dutch gables (twenty-one in total, more than any other wine farms) and the oldest dated wine cellar in the country (1767). It is situated on the banks of the Eerste River, the first river encountered by settlers, often referred to as South Africa’s first border. Spier’s vinous heritage is as old as the farm itself. Today, Spier’s winery is the most awarded in South Africa, and the wines are made under the skillful guidance of celebrated cellar master Frans Smit. He has created two primary ranges of wines: the 21 Gables Pinotage and Chenin Blanc, crafted for special occasions, and the Spier Creative Block range of blends. In addition to its wines, Spier has an award-winning hotel and conference centre on the banks of the Eerste River. The rooms are situated in village-style buildings in a design reminiscent of the Bo-Kaap or Mediterranean villages where pedestrians have right of way. Spier is also renowned for its commitment to responsible tourism, as well as its innovative social and environmental initiatives, and has been recognized by various organizations. Spier was one of the first luxury hotels in South Africa to receive Fair Trade in Tourism (FTTSA) accreditation (2004). Spier’s winery was the first in South Africa to receive accreditation from the 48

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Eggs Benedict at the Restaurant 8 (facing page), the hotel’s courtyard swimming pool (left) and internal village setting (below) of Spier Wine Estate

Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association (WIETA) in 2004. The estate also received a Condé Nast Traveler World Saver Award in 2007, and in 2011 Condé Nast recognized Spier as the top international destination. Spier is a member of the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI), and the Spier Hotel received a gold award in the Virgin Holiday Partners in Sustainability Award in 2009. Recycling is a core focus, with the farm recycling 100 percent of its waste water and 85 percent of its solid waste. Social programs include support for entrepreneurs, as well as community-based projects such as Treepreneurs where community members grow trees in exchange for essential goods. A primary focus is to restore the fertility of the soil on Spier’s farmlands. This is done using biodynamic techniques and through the farming of cattle, chickens, sheep and vegetables. The produce from the farm is lovingly prepared into delicious and nutritious meals at Spier’s farm-totable restaurant, Eight, which offers guests the opportunity to pair quality food with Spier’s award-winning wines. Art is central to the Spier experience, and Spier has been a long-time supporter of the arts. From the Spier Art Academy and Creative Block project to performing arts festivals and the Spier Contemporary, the focus has always been to help build and develop the artistic community in South Africa. The art on the estate explores contemporary South African culture and aims to provoke a fresh look at our world. Spier is a place that challenges and

inspires. It is a place to enjoy fine wine, delicious food, great hospitality and the tranquility of nature. It is a place that respects its heritage, but also offers a contemporary experience through its vibrant and conscious culture. The land that forms the farm called Spieris thought to have been inhabited by humans as far back as the Early Stone Age. It was later inhabited by the Khoisan, a group including the hunter-gather San and the herding Khoekhoen. The history of the farm itself can be traced back to the founding of Stellenbosch.

Farmers vied for land along the river, Eerste, as it was the first river encountered by the pioneers as they left the expanding colony now known as Cape Town. By 1683 there were over 30 families settled along the banks of the river. Due to disputes between farmers, particularly over water rights, a magistrate was posted to the area, the farms were properly surveyed and the first grants were issued in 1692. The first recorded owner of Spier was Arnoud (or Aarnout) Jansz, a German soldier in the service of the Dutch East India Company. Jansz planted the farm’s first

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The different suites

vines and also farmed grain and livestock. When Jansz made his first wine in 1700, he became one of the pioneers of the South African wine industry, and Spier one of the leaders in the country’s illustrious vinous history. It is often thought that the name, Spier, was given by Hans Heinrich Hattingh, another German who came from the town of Speyer and purchased the farm in 1712. 50

However, evidence points to the possibility that the name was already in use when Hattingh took ownership, and that it could have derived from the Dutch word for “marsh of bulrushes.” By then Spier was producing wine from some 12,000 vines. The wine would be shipped in large barrels by horse and cart to the Cape of Good Hope, a full day’s journey. By 1754, Spier was one of the best-

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known producers of quality wine in the prosperous Stellenbosch region. Over 30,000 vines grew on the property, and its owner, Johan Bernhard Hoffman, was a leading member of winelands society. Spier’s next owner, Albertus Myburgh, who owned the property between 1765 and 1781 and whose descendents still own the neighboring Meerlust estate, built the famous old wine cellar on Spier. In 1781 the farm was bought by AndriesChristoffel van derByl and remained in the hands of the Van derByl family for 150 years until 1919. Van derByl is believed to have built the winged central gable on the slave quarters—now housing Moyo’s restaurant operations—as well as the Manor House on the site of the original farmhouse. Few farmsteads display the wealth and variety of gables as found at Spier. There are twenty-one, and the oldest, a Hobol gable dated 1767, is on the cellar behind the Manor House. Heavy mouldings adorn its edge and a keystone is positioned at the top. There is a second Hobol gable on the cow house probably dating from 1773, and four pedimented gables on other buildings, including one on the Manor House, dated 1822. The restored Slave Bell on the banks of the Eerste River was built by van derByl around 1825 when he needed a great number of slaves to harvest the grapes from the estate’s 80,000 vines. The history of Spier subsequent to the van derByl ownership has been difficult to trace. From 1918 the owners included a Mr. Cartwright (1918 to 1935), Mr. C. T. Rhodes (1935 to 1945) and a Mr. Keppel (1945 to 1965). The next owner, Niel Joubert, purchased Spier in 1965, and can be considered a pioneer not only of Spier, but of the entire Cape wine industry. At that time, Joubert, as with most wine farmers in the area, had been making wine for the larger cooperative wineries, such as the Stellenbosch Farmers Winery and KWV, who would then bottle the product for selling. However, in 1971, Spier began bottling its own wine with a specific vision. The first bottling produced a batch of 10,000 bottles. Joubert knew that the best way for an estate to market its wine was to build a relationship between the estate and the enthusiast. In making the estate an attractive place to visit, he hoped to generate long-

term loyalty, in addition to a venue for selling the wines—a concept which proved to be way ahead of its time. Joubert was also one of the pioneers of the Stellenbosch Wine Route together with Frans Malan, who owned the wellknown Simonsig Estate on the opposite side of Stellenbosch, and Spätz Sperling, the ebullient proprietor of Delheim winery. It was formed in 1971. Spier soon became a highlight for visitors to the Cape. Spier’s annual harvest festival became one of the highlights on the Cape’s social calendar. For the first time the wine culture was brought to the public who had until now only known the product in its bottled form. The Joubert era at Spier came close to a tragic end in the late 1970s. Niel Joubert and his son were fishing in False Bay when a freak wave knocked them from their boat. They were both injured by the boat’s propellers, but fortunately a passing yacht rescued them. The farm was bought by the current owners in 1993. Although Spier’s buildings were in a state of decay, the family felt compelled to preserve and develop them. At first the aim was to restore the original homestead and the other estate buildings and the gables for which Spier has gained architectural renown.

Tom Darlington is well known for his expertise and sensitivity in working with historical buildings on heritage sites, and he was one of the first people contracted to look at the buildings at Spier. They were in a bad state and in some places the walls

were saturated with damp to a height of two metres. The werf was a marshland. Darlington decided the only solution was to drain the site. Renovations began. Roofs were rethatched so that work could be done inside the buildings, a bricked-in gable was recovered and restored in the cow house building, and once the dry summer season started a network of agricultural drains was buried throughout the gardens and approaches to divert the natural water courses away from the buildings. This meant digging a dam to the side of the Jonkershuis and behind two cottages which have now been converted into admin offices. Because nothing is wasted at Spier, the earth from the dam went to create the amphitheatre. Of prime importance to Darlington was conserving the patina and the textures that had come to distinguish the buildings over the centuries. He talks, almost reverentially, of walking around in the quiet of the evening and listening to the place. For the family, buying Spier was never a straightforward matter of acquiring prime vine lands. They talk of being custodians of a heritage that belongs as much to present generations as it does to those in the future. This concept of custodianship has extended into the way that Spier does business today.

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EXALT

An Initiate in

By Eileen Campos Photos by Vit Velasquez

Iligan City

A Maranao-inspired float weaves through the busy thoroughfares of Iligan City during the Diyandi Fetival

Iligan City is known for its waterfalls including the second-highest Maria Cristina Falls, harnessed for hydroelectricity, and the Tinago Falls, a favorite for family and barkada outings

here are a lot of what seemed to be chaos: devotees pushing and shoving to get a kiss of the San Miguel, male teenagers jumping and shouting to the beat of the drums, people making way for a Mindanaoan dance in the middle of the plaza, and every once in a while a baby or a toddler would pop up from the crowd. The deafening cries of “Viva Senyor San Miguel” echo into the bright morning here in Iligan City in Lanao del Norte. All of these is because of the feast of Saint Michael the Archangel, the patron of the city, and the rest of the Diyandi Festival. And I am practically the only stationary thing amidst it all. I am a festival first-timer. Three nights ago, I was zipping down the main highway, making my way from the Cagayan de Oro airport towards Iligan, 795 kilometers south of Manila, in Northern Mindanao. The city is an easy hour-and-a-half drive from the airport. By 2012, expect that travel time to be cut in half with the inauguration of the new Laguindingan International Airport. Maybe then when I go back, I will have less emotional moments looking out the car window and more time immersing myself in the city that is dubbed as the City of Majestic Waterfalls. There are 23 recorded and confirmed waterfalls within Iligan’s boundaries, including Maria Cristina Falls, Tinago, Mimbalot, Dodiongan, Hindang and Pampam, and they really do offer quite a spectacular array of aquatic adventures. You can take your pick from any of these cascades, and each one will bring that feeling of awe towards the beauty, power and magnificence of nature.

That night, we drove into a sleepy Iligan that was preparing for a schedule packed with celebrations, contests and merrymaking. I went to bed without the slightest idea of what was in store for me for the next three days. The following morning, I woke up with a thirst for Iligan. The energy is undeniable and the excitement is raw. The streets are flooding with color and people; the street dancing competition is just about to begin. Perpetual smiles are plastered on contestants, and their costume colors glisten in the stark sun. The performances come in groups, each one as exciting as the last, depicting the story of St. Michael and his defeat of the devil. The beat of the drums ring in my ear and reverberate in my chest. I could not help but move my body to the beat. It is my first taste of Iligan, and it is electrifyingly good. I would stay and indulge myself with more but there is more of Iligan to see. We start off with the impressive Macaraeg-Macapagal ancestral home. Since 2002, this structure that President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo has called home as a child has been part of the National Historical Institute’s roster of heritage houses. Since it was built in the 1950s and until today, this space still holds occasional family events for the Macaraeg, Macapagal and Arroyo families. On display are family treasures, gifts from prominent political figures and photographs of important instances in Philippine history. You get to see a slice of the President’s quiet life in Iligan then, with her own playhouse and a sprawling spring and river behind its walls. The day has a few other twists and turns until it finally starts to Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Almost everyone, including government employees, comes out for the Diyandi Festival parade (above). People throng to the church (above, right) and line up to pay homage to the city’s patron, Saint Michael the Archangel (right). The ritual diyandi is performed in front of the church (facing page). When in Iligan, visit one of its waterfalls, Mimbalot (facing page, top).

wind down. This day is special for me because it is my birthday. We cap it off with a cozy dinner with new Iliganon friends and an extra helping of a darn good durian shake. Looking back, I do not regret, even for one second, spending my day not only away from family but on the road. If touring around a beautiful southern city is not enough to stand as my birthday gift, the promise of seeing the Maria Cristina Falls is. I have read about her in books. Alongside Laguna’s Pagsanjan Falls, she is the only other waterfalls mentioned in textbooks. I grew up distinguishing her as the falls that gives life to a hydro-electric plant. I can’t wait to finally be face-to-face with her. I expect a short hike or a trek through a forest. I am dressed with the intention of going up and over small rocks and through and under broken branches. Imagine my surprise and awe when, after stepping off the van and turning around to the other side the falls stands right there—all 98 meters of it. It is spectacular. Waterfalls have been eternally described as majestic. Now, I know why. There really is no other adjective to justly define this sight. It is how I have seen her in books: two beautiful cascades, separated by a rock on the top edge, crashing into the basin before finally disintegrating into a thin mist. The falls, the second highest in the country, is harnessed by the Agus VI Hydroelectric Plant. With 130 cubic meters crashing down every second, it wouldn’t be too much of a surprise to know that this plant produces eighty percent of Mindanao’s entire power requirement. To get the best view of the falls, a stroll up the National Power Corporations (NPC) Power Plant’s view deck is encouraged. It has been open and operational since 1952, and ever since ninety percent of the falls’ water has been utilized to produce 200 megawatts of power. 54

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It really is such an experience to be in the presence of such power and beauty. A raging force that is essential to the everyday lives of Mindanaoans is as awe-inspiring as it can be. Surrounding the falls is officially the NPC’s Nature Park, an eco-park that has a small but impressive collection of animals and a one-of-a-kind zip lines. A canopy walk starts the adventure, culminating with two zip lines that through trees and over the Agus River. The crashing water of Maria Cristina serves as background. Although being the grandest, Maria Cristina is not the only falls in the area. We get back in the van and head out for Iligan’s other special surprises. This time, we head towards Mimbalot Falls. Conveniently, it has the Iligan Paradise Resort nestled just above it. Mimbalot is part of the Tourism Triangle of Iligan, along with Maria Cristina and Tinago Falls. Mimbalot Falls does not scare you off with awesome power like Maria Cristina’s but rather invites you in. A modest 27.5 meters tall and four meters across, it has been the

perfect venue for families spending an afternoon together. Rounding off the Tourism Triangle and a day of touring is Tinago Falls. Appropriately named, the falls is accessed by a threeto four-hundred-step staircase, depending on which route you take. Clearly, not for the faint of heart, it reveals as wonderful 73 meterhigh waterfalls with a hidden cave behind its cascade. The deep blue waters are inviting and serve as a cool reward for taking the time to seek out this hidden gem. Still, after all those waterfalls, Iligan has more water wonders to throw towards us. It is time to head on to the Timoga Cold Springs. Crystal clear water is filtered subterraneously from Lake Lanao before it finally spills out into the springs. A resort was built around them on a hill, where one can enjoy free-flowing, icy-cold water, the perfect escape from the heat. Even if it is not summer, the springs are still packed with families and friends taking a refreshing and definitely invigorating dip.

After exploring the natural treasures of Iligan City, it is great to return to the city and experience more of the Diyandi Festival. It is a month-long celebration that culminates in the joyous feast of Saint Michael the Archangel on September 29. The entire month is packed with events and activities—beauty pageants, celebrity shows, tartanilla (local horse-drawn carriage or kalesa) design contest, parades, street parties, live concerts, trade fairs, cooking contests, sports competitions, cultural shows and even documentary fests. It is crazy. In every corner of the city, something is brewing. The diyandi is a song-and-dance ritual performed by women during the Pagpakanaug, before every novena and before the start of a komedya. The ritual is said to depict the courtship between a Maranao male and Higaonon female, which ends in their union and an offering and thanksgiving to St. Michael the Archangel. The Muslim Maranao and Higaonon are two of the ethnic groups of Iligan City, which is dominated by Cebuano-speaking Catholics. No other moment serves as climax to my trip than the morning festivities of the 29th. I get up at dawn and make my way towards the church plaza. Once I turn into the main road, I don’t have to figure out where to go; I don’t have to move my feet at all. A massive wave of people is moving me. I am being pulled by a current of devotees, making their way to see, touch and kiss San Miguel one more time. Once I finally find a solid footing within the church plaza, I look around and see a juxtaposition of one person against another. From where I am, I can see a mass being celebrated within the church. Outside the church plaza is a steady rhythm created by drummers and whistlers. There are people jumping in unison and shouting praises for San Miguel. At the church plaza, patrons of Senyor San Miguel line up for a last chance to gain his blessings for this year. Amidst all of these, a group of women garbed in traditional Mindanaoan colors dance in ethnic beats and give their offerings towards the Archangel. Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

One of the significant landmarks of Iligan City is the Macaraeg-Macapagal ancestral home where President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo spent part of her childhood. Since it was built in the 1950s and until today, it still holds occasional events for the Macaraeg, Macapagal and Arroyo families. On display are family treasures, gifts from prominent political figures and photographs of important instances in Philippine history.

Everybody is indulging in the moment. Not once is there a cry for help or a grievance on the inconvenience of the occasion. It is a congregation made in pure dedication to St. Michael. This entire trip has been a revelation: witnessing Maria Cristina in her majesty, taking part in the procession of the feast of St. Michael and interacting with Iligan’s most accommodating people. It definitely is memorable. When I am to return to Metro Manila though, it gives me one problem—how in the world am I going to get this entire lechon back home?

Getting There The nearest airport to Iligan City is the Cagayan de Oro Airport. There are several airlines flying to Cagayan de Oro City everyday. Flight time from Manila to Cagayan de Oro Airport is approximately one hour and twenty minutes. From Cagayan de Oro Airport, get a taxi (to take you direct to Iligan), or get a taxi to drop you off at Bulua Bus Terminal (Cagayan). At Bulua Bus Terminal you can find buses going to Iligan. Travel time from Cagayan de Oro to Iligan is approximately one-and-a-half hour. From Manila, you can take a boat going to Cagayan de Oro seaport, and then take a taxi or bus to Iligan City. From Cebu, there is a daily boat schedule going to Cagayan de Oro seaport. 56

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Pasalubongs from Iligan City Keep the Filipino tradition of bringing home pasalubongs with these famous Iligan treats:

Cheding’s Peanuts This is known as Iligan’s Pride, and no trip to Iligan will be complete without picking up a pack or kilo of these fine peanuts with other varieties such as Banana Crispy Hot, Sugar Coated and Crispy Garlic Hot. Their other products are peanut butter, peanut brittle, polvoron and ampao. They have maintained the quality and consistency of the original by keeping production in small batches and the special secret recipe within the family.

Lechon (roasted pig) With a festival solely dedicated to

lechon, one will be intrigued at what makes Iligan lechon different and distinct. You can tell from the taste, the texture and the smell that Iligan lechon is definitely a class of its own. Iliganons are proud to claim that they have the best lechon in Mindanao, if not the entire Philippines.

Sukang Pinakurat

From the word kurat meaning “surprise,” this vinegar blend, which is basically fermented coconut water blended with garlic, onions and chilies definitely will surprise you. It has put Iligan City on the culinary map. It has been internationally exported but the maker remains a mediumsized modest family business. Pinakurat rises to the challenge by satisfying old clients and winning new ones with other variations of their product.

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

ESCAPE

Fun and Adventure at

El Galleon Dive Resort and Hotel By Excel V. Dyquiangco • Photos by Joy Serrano

hen it comes to diving, there is no better place to discover the richness of marine life than in Puerto Galera, a resort town in the northeast of the island of Mindoro, very accessible from Manila. Here, one finds an abundance of resorts and lodges. One that offers good diving services as well as nice accommodations is El Galleon Dive Resort and Hotel, located in Small La Laguna Beach in the barangay of Sabang, one of the areas where many resorts cluster. El Galleon has homey cottages, a pool and a restaurant, perfect for anyone who wants a relaxing ambiance in contrast to the stressful life in the city.

Accommodations and Other Facilities

For those who are on a tight budget and looking for comfort without the fuss, one can check out El Galleon’s four budget rooms. These rooms come with queen-size beds, mini-bars and air conditioning. The bathrooms may look old but nevertheless are charming. The restaurant of El Galleon Dive Resort and Hotel offers delectable delights

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

The swimming pool

Diving

Puerto Galera boasts of some of the best diving sites in Asia. There about thirty sites, accessible in fifteen minutes. El Galleon has a professional diving center that promises an exhilarating under water experience. Asia Divers, the Philippines’ first PADI CDC center, has experienced instructors and dive masters, who will lead you to the best sites, some not frequented by other operators. The water fronting the resort is home to numerous varieties of fish as well as soft and hard corals. The dive shop is open at 6:30 in the morning. There are at least four scheduled dives a day—at 8 A.M., 10:30 A.M., 1:30 P.M. and 4 P.M. The resort has local outrigger boats for diving excursions. Visibility here is 18 up to 40 meters. A technical dive costs US$60 and rebreather dive at US$179 per day or US$73 per dive. You can take your underwater experience home on video for US$66. The resort has two Poolside Rooms, so called because they offer views of the pool, which have queen-size beds, mini-bars, storage spaces and air conditioning. The bathrooms have vanity areas and hot and cold showers. For families or larger groups, it has Family Rooms. Extra beds can be requested. The Seaview Rooms all have fantastic views of the bay. El Galleon’s one Penthouse has its own kitchen, private balcony and a living room with a great view. For seminars and other large gatherings, one can avail of the conference room, which is situated above the restaurant. This accommodates at about twenty-five persons, and has airconditioning, a projector, a white board and television. The restaurant, which is near the shore, offers delectable local and Continental cuisines. The Point Bar offers cocktails and is always open for a grand time. The whole place is also WiFi-connected. To complete these is the helpful and reliable staff. Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Getting There

The resort offers different kinds of rooms

Other Activities

Aside from diving, there are other activities you can indulge in in Puerto Galera. The Tukturan or the Hidden Paradise Trip includes the Tamaraw Falls, one of the waterfalls in Puerto Galera, a trek to the hanging bridge and a visit to a Mangyan village. Tread town’s beautiful trails in the Puerto Galera Hash House Harriers. Beer awaits participants in the end. One can play golf at the Ponderosa Golf Club. The resort has a sixty-foot boat called Asia Explorer II for sunset cruises. Stops include the White Beach for a game of volleyball or a barbecue picnic. Other activities in El Galleon include kayaking, motorcycle riding, paintball game and snorkeling. You can pan for gold around Oriental Mindoro. 60

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To go to Puerto Galera, there is a oneand-half to two-hour bus or car trip from Manila to Batangas using Southern Luzon Expressway and Star Toll. From the Batangas Port, one can ride a ferry for one to two hours to the resort town. Sikat Ferry offers air-conditioned bus and connecting boat (Manila-Batangas-Puerto Galera). Bus leaves Manila at 8 A.M. at the CityState Tower Hotel, 1314 A. Mabini Street, Ermita. Reservation can be made at (+63 2) 5213344. Buses ply the Manila-Batangas (Pier) route regularly. There are stations in Buendia Avenue, Plaza Lawton, Kamuning, Cubao and Pasay City-EDSA. At the Batangas Pier, there are ferries and outrigger boats going to Puerto Galera. They usually leave Batangas Pier every thirty minutes or hour. Boats arrive in Puerto Galera in different points—Sabang, Muelle, White Beach, Minolo and Balatero Port (ro-ro). If you bring your own vehicle, the regular roll on-roll off (ro-ro) ferry direct to Puerto Galera is the Montenegro Shipping Line at Terminal 3, leaving Batangas Pier at noon and departs Puerto Galera (Balatero Port) at 5:30 P.M. daily. The ferry can hold only six to ten vehicles. The other option to reach Puerto Galera from Batangas is going to Calapan City. Its distance from Puerto Galera is about 51 kilometers, and it takes about one-hour drive. Environmental Users’ Fee (EUF) for tourists is Php50 each. Main collection site is at Batangas Port beside the shipping lines’ ticket booths. El Galleon Dive Resort and Hotel is located at Small La Laguna Beach, Sabang, Puerto Galera.

Contact Information El Galleon Dive Resort and Hotel can be contacted through telephone number (+63 43) 287-3205, mobile phone number +63917-8145107 and email address admin@asiadivers.com. Web site is www. elgalleon.com. It also maintains a blog at http://blog.elgalleon.com.

Puerto Nirvana Beach Resort

Your Gateway to Leisure in Puerto Galera By Excel V. Dyquiangco • Photos by Joy Serrano

The Puerto Nirvana Beach Resort is located in Poblacion

uerto Nirvana Beach Resort is located just 300 meters from the town proper of Puerto Galera in the sitio of Hondura. It is one of the few resorts in the Poblacion of this resort town in northeast Oriental Mindoro. Most are in the White Beach (San Isidro) and Sabang areas. Puerto Nirvana is near the National Highway but has a beachfront, promising a tranquil atmosphere and unforgettable stay. “In Puerto Galera, I am the only resort that’s near the National Highway and the beach so the place is really quiet,” owner Romy Roxas says. “The resort is also in the middle of Puerto Galera. If you go east, there is the Sabang and all those resorts and dive places. If you go west, you can go mountain climbing. The resort is only a 150 meters away from Poblacion. If you go north or northwest, there is the White Beach area. During the night, you can go party with the yuppies. On the opposite direction, the thirteen waterfalls can be found, along with several eco-tourism spots. The resort is right at the center.” The first thing that strikes visitors is its colorful and funky signage, which foments images of children’s playground, a glimpse of what the resort looks like. The place has Japanese and Filipinoinspired motifs. The bamboo is used in the rooms and the garden, while the dining area has red and white lights. Nipa and rattan were also used in the rooms. 62

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The swimming pool

The rooms sport different designs

“As much as possible I want the place to be colorful so that it can cater to a lot of people,” explains Roxas. “I want a little of everything in the place.” Puerto Nirvana’s well-designed rooms, each has a different setup and design so that guests can keep coming back for more. The largest rooms, the two elegant suite rooms, have kingsize beds, cable TVs, mini bars, sofa bed, hot and cold showers, air-conditioning, verandas and panoramic view of the sunrise. These can accommodate about five people. Aside from these, there are other rooms one can choose from: the deluxe room, the superior room, the executive room and the standard room. Two family rooms can accommodate up to twelve people, good for families and barkadas. Other features of the resort are a bar and a restaurant, an open-air seminar room, a function room, a small souvenir shop, an infinity pool, a stage, a meditation area, a multi-purpose hall, a kiddie playground, a children’s pool, a basketball court, a video game arcade and a view deck. Puerto Nirvana offers tours for its guests: the Bulabod Beach and River Tour, the Island Tour, the Tukuran Falls Tour and the Sampaloc Bay View. Activities one may enjoy here are scuba-diving, snorkeling, island-hopping, beach tour, fish feeding, fishing, jet-ski-ing, yachting and surfing. From time to time, Puerto Nirvana offers special packages and promo tours. The resort offers team-building activities including The Amazing Race-style race involving the beautiful spots in Puerto Galera. The restaurant offers local and international dishes such as sinigang, pinakbet and pork chop. The service at the resort is also personalized. Even the owner is on hand if needed. “If we are understaffed, I help out,” he says. According to Roxas, Puerto Nirvana is one of the best places to see the sunrise. “You can really see it from up-close, and it just takes your breath away,” Roxas gushes. Puerto Nirvana has two advantages. In summer time, the wind is cool unlike in other areas where it is hot and humid. When a storm happens to visit the province, the waves are calm. “Even if it is already signal number five, the waves are tranquil,” Roxas says. “But if you walk 500 miles from where you are now, you can see the fierceness and brunt of the storm.” Puerto Galera Bay, in front of the resort, is an almost enclosed body of water, protected from storms. Thus, it is a most favored shelter since olden times.

Contact Information Puerto Nirvana Beach Resort is in the sitio of Hondura, Poblacion, Puerto Galera, with telefax number (+63 43) 287-3408, mobile phone numbers +63917-6248607 and +63922-8172736, and email addresses puertonirvana@yahoo.com, info@puertonirvana. com and reservation@puertonirvana.com. Its Metro Manila sales and reservation office is at 96 Road 20, Project 8, Quezon City, with telephone number (+63 2) 455-5774, fax number (+63 2) 454-2236 and mobile phone numbers +63917-8287978, +639228814419 and +639178287978. It is open Monday to Friday, 9 A.M. to 6 P.M. Web site is www.puertonirvana.com. Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Located in Palangan, the Blue Crystal Beach Resort started out as a private vacation home. Now a resort, it has Greek and Chinese-inspired architecture.

Enjoy at

Precious Moments

Blue Crystal Beach Resort By Excel V. Dyquiangco Photos by Joy Serrano

The restaurant serves Filipino, Italian and international dishes

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 â&#x20AC;˘ Number 4 â&#x20AC;˘ 2011

lue Crystal Beach Resort, located in the barangay of Palangan, Puerto Galera, started as a private vacation house of husband and wife Hans and Elena Leentvaar who lived in Japan. Friends and family members began frequenting the place, and before long the couple needed more rooms to accommodate them. They started with two rooms. When an adjacent piece of land was put up on sale, they bought it and built two more rooms. One day, a travel agent came and said he wanted to work with them. Since they both live outside the country, he asked them if they could rent out the rooms. Thus, Blue Crystal Beach Resort came to be. The resort has a Greek and Chinese-inspired architecture. A Chinese dragon stands guard by main entrance. Trees and plants thrive inside the resort. The owners built the structure around the trees, which are already standing on the land; they did not cut them down. Blue Crystal Beach Resort has three buildings. The Kadena de Amor Building, named after the exotic plant, is a Greek-inspired white structure, housing two King Suites and one Family Executive Suite. The Blue Crystal Harmony, meanwhile, houses the restaurant, serving Filipino, Italian and international dishes. A pool table can be found in the restaurant. The third building has French windows and uses narra from Isabela.

Aside from the King Suites and the Executive Suite, the resort has one Bridal Suite, two Executive Family Suites, two Family Suites, four Superior Suites and three Deluxe Suites. All suites have air-conditioning, cable televisions, mini bars, bathrooms with bath and showers and WiFi connection. The family room is good for a group of ten people. “I designed the rooms,” reveals owner Hans Leentvaar. “I travel quite a lot and am interested in architecture…The interiors of the rooms are based on five-star hotels around the world, from which we got some ideas.” Activities that you can indulge in at the resort include scuba-diving, snorkeling, day trips and beach hopping. For guests who prefer to stay inside the resort, there is a swimming pool. Package tours are offered, including trips to the waterfalls, the Mangyan village or White Beach, Ponderosa Golf Club and the Bulabod Beach. One can go to one of Puerto Galera beaches, and enjoy a barbeque lunch and a pleasant swim. For those who are into games, enjoy two rounds of paintball war. For those who like to tour the town by themselves, they can rent buggies. According to Leentvaar, they are planning on improvements and expansion. “On the other side of the road, we have a portion of the land,” he reveals. “We would like to add more activities such as native dances and more rooms in the future. We would also like to cooperate with the sailing center and organize beach-hopping and day trips in places where we haven’t gone before.”

Contact Information

Blue Crystal Beach Resort can be contacted through telephone numbers (+63 43) 287-3144, (+63 43) 287-3143 and (+63 43) 287-3144, fax number (81) 282-24-8684, mobile phone number +63915-2236067, and email with address info@bluecrystalbeachresort.com. Visit Website www. bluecrystalbeachresort.com.

THE E-HOTEL MAKATI, A NEW BOUTIQUE HOTEL WHICH RECENTLY OPENED ITS DOORS TO BUSINESS TRAVELERS, HAD ITS BIBLE OFFERING ACTIVITY DONE BY GIDEONS INTERNATIONAL. THE E-HOTEL MAKATI HAS ELEGANT GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES, A RESTAURANT AND A LOUNGE. ITS RESTAURANT OFFERS A WIDE ARRAY OF CALIFORNIAN/MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE. THE HOTEL HAS AN OPENING PROMO ROOM RATE OF PHP4,000 NET INCLUSIVE OF BREAKFAST FOR TWO. EXPERIENCE SPACE, COMFORT AND WARM HOSPITALITY AT THE E-HOTEL MAKATI, WHICH IS CONVENIENTLY LOCATED AT 906 A. ARNAIZ AVENUE (FORMERLY PASAY ROAD), SAN LORENZO VILLAGE, MAKATI CITY.

DR. ELTON SEE TAN, CHAIRMAN OF THE E-HOTEL MAKATI; BROTHER NEMIE JOSIAH, PRESIDENT OF GIDEONS INTERNATIONAL PHILIPPINES MAKATI CITY CAMP; AND RICHARD TAMONDONG, THE E-HOTEL MAKATI’S RESIDENT MANAGER.

For inquiries and reservations, call the e-hotel makati at 478-3280, or you may visit its web site at www.ehotelsgroup.com Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

The Wonders Under and Above the Waters at the

La Laguna

Beach Club and Dive Center

La Laguna Beach Club has a sizable swimming pool where guests can take a refreshing dip (above). Divers gear up for an exciting excursion into Puerto Galera’s dive sites (below).

Photos by Joy Serrano

he replica of cannons lined up on its side makes La Laguna Beach Club and Dive Centre look more of an armory museum than a resort. These sometimes foment fear among new visitors but the fear later gives way to awe as they get near the war weapons. The cannons, which became the landmark of the resort, reflect the owner’s personality. While he is not a soldier, he has a great passion for war gadgets, especially the cannons used during World War II. But his staff assures, their big boss is soft-spoken and gentle, far from our usual perception of men exposed to battlefields. The man behind La Laguna Beach Club and Dive Center loves war weapons but manages his organization with love. The latter is what drives the employees to perform their jobs well, and this is 66 |

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The resort is known for its old canons, part of the collection of the owner. There are also intriguing knickknacks (inset, top). The restaurant has a delectable array of dishes (inset, above).

what visitors remember them for. Most resorts are remembered for their elegant structures and delectable food. While La Laguna has these to boast of, the management would prefer to touch the hearts of their visitors with excellent service.

The Resort

La Laguna is nestled at the heart of the beautiful Big La Laguna Beach, where the sand is white and the water crystal clear and teeming with fish and corals. It has 41 well-appointed single, double, family and suite rooms around the pool and along the beachfront. All are fully air-conditioned and furnished with a mini bar, cable TV, Wi-Fi connection and bathrooms with modern comforts including hot water. In a place full or resorts and dining options, there is more to La Laguna Beach Club than having classy international and local cuisines. They have the friendliest staff as well. After a dive or stroll at the beach, their bar is a perfect place to laze around and taste the wine of your choice. Being a dive center, the resort does not only entertain professional divers but teaches enthusiasts as well. Because of this, their freshwater swimming pool doubles as a venue for diving students. The resort has more to offer its visitors including sea kayaking, sailing, fishing and even mountain hiking at the famous

Tukuran Falls. The club also offers dive trips to other destinations aboard the company-owned M.V. Rags II.

The PADI Scuba Dive Centre

Their PADI Scuba Dive Centre provides modern facilities and instruction for all levels, from beginner to technical diving. Whether you are a novice beginning a PADI open water course or an advanced diver wanting to further your skills, a call at the Dive Centre is all you need. The La Laguna dive center also has an IANTD facility offering Nitrox, Trimix, gas blending and rebreather courses. For professionals who want to share their skills, the center has an IDC program, a prerequisite to become a dive instructor. La Laguna Beach Club and Dive Centre offers direct VIP airport transfers for as low as Php6000. A guest can get to the beach club in a matter of three hours as soon as he steps off the plane from the airport.

Contact Information La Laguna Beach Club and Dive Centre is at Big La Laguna Beach, Sabang, Puerto Galera, Oriental Mindoro, with telefax number (+63 43) 287-3181, mobile phone number +63 9177940323, e-mail address lalaguna@llbc.com.ph and Website www.llbc.com.ph. Different room types are offered at the resort

Volume 7 â&#x20AC;˘ Number 4 â&#x20AC;˘ 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

The El Cañonero Diving and Beach Resort has two lagoon-like swimming pools—one for kids and one for adults.

El Cañonero Diving and Beach Resort:

A Piece of Paradise By Niña Elyca J. Rabadam Photos by Donald Tapan

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

l Cañonero Diving and Beach Resort in Talipanan Beach, Puerto Galera, provides that much needed relaxation, away from the crowds found at nearby beaches, a piece of paradise where one can just lounge around, bask in the warmth of the sun, feel the refreshing breeze and be awed by the town’s magnificent waterscapes. It is perfect for any kind of groups. With the complete facilities and amenities, why go anywhere else? According to El Cañonero’s general manager, Giorgio Borello, the resort’s name is in commemoration of an Italian galleon, Cañonero de Mariveles, that sank in Puerto Galera waters. El Cañonero is a two-storey structure with ten room, classified as individual, double and quadruple, complete with air-conditioning or fans, TVs, refrigerators and bathrooms with hot and cold showers. Most of the rooms has terraces that look out to the sea. The rooms have touches of the native; walls or panels are made out of sawali. The Terrace, found on its second floor, is a chill-out place with a snack bar, a billiard table and the Octopus Restaurant with a television set and a lounging area. The resort has lagoon-like swimming pools—one for kids and one for adults. Beside them are gazebos where guests can hang out and take the time to marvel at El Cañonero’s charming landscape, shaded by tall trees and lush with greeneries. The bar found near the pool is a place where guest can gather for drinks, mingle with other guests and even with El Cañonero’s friendly and accommodating staff, who are ready to assist guests with their needs during the stay. El Cañonero has the Octopus Restaurant, so-called because of

Woven bamboo strips are used in the rooms to give them a native and tropical feel

the seafood it offers. Borello explains that aside from Italian dishes, it takes pride in its variety of seafood dishes, which diners love. Diving is one of the activities that one can indulge in during a stay at El Cañonero. Puerto Galera is famous for its diving sites. Guests can take diving lessons, which are conducted by the resort’s two PADI-certified dive trainers. Other activities that the resort offers include snorkeling,

different water sports, beach game, excursions to Puerto Galera’s waterfalls and even a visit to a village of the Mangyans, Mindoro’s indigenous people.

Contact Information

El Canoñero Diving and Beach Resort, in Talipanan, Puerto Galera, can contacted through mobile phone numbers +63915-8454399, +63916-5249510 and +63929-1337900 and email at the address info@divingresortelcanonero.com. Visit Website www.divingelcanonero.com.

Half page ad

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Jony’s Beach Resort started out with two cottages and now has two buildings with 21 rooms at the Station 1 of White Beach

A Home by the Beach at

Jony’s Beach Resort

Text and Photos by Roel Hoang Manipon

he Philippines’ tourism industry rests on the small island of Boracay, off the northwest tip of Panay Island in the Visayas, which has become the numberone getaway of the country, luring thousands of visitors every year. It also lures developers and entrepreneurs, and developments have been rapid over the last twenty years. The oncedesolate island, inhabited by small groups of indigenous Ati and occasionally visited by backpackers, now pulsates with resorts, bars and restaurants, especially along White Beach at the western side of the island, where the waters are warm, clear and inviting and the sand along the five-kilometer stretch is like sugar, perhaps the finest in the world. There are about 300 resorts in the island, ranging from the grand like the Shangri-la to the modest, which can be a shack, most of them jostling for space along White Beach. Among them is Jony’s, a homey family-run resort at Station 1, northern part of White Beach, in the barangay of Balabag. Its owner, 52-year-old Dionisio Salme, who currently heads the Boracay Foundation, an organization of resort and restaurant owners, is a pioneer and has seen how the island developed. The genial Salme never dreamt of owning a resort. “Who would have thought…?” he says in Filipino. “I never dreamt of owning a resort. I was happy just owning a car. I thought that was it. But things happened.” Salme just found himself in Boracay by circumstances but went on to make a home here and raise a family. “I thought it was just a temporary assignment, but I got married here and came to raise

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

Its Maya restaurant can accommodate up to 80 diners

a family. I even had grandchildren here. I thought maybe it was a blessing, being here in Boracay,” he says. Salme actually grew up in Pontevedra, Negros Occidental, and went to Manila to continue his studies. He was in third-year high school. He then enrolled in a business administration course at the University of the East and at same time worked for the Elizalde Group of Companies, owned by a prominent family. “I worked at the research department,” he recalls. “I was a working student; life was hard. Then I was assigned by my company to Boracay. There were a bit of a problem then. It was Marcos time, and there were land-grabbing issues. So I was sent by my boss to administer his property here in Boracay.” The property of the Elizaldes, who own D’Mall and a local radio station in Boracay, still stands today, resisting development, a patch of restricted open space near Jony’s Beach Resort. Salme first stepped in Boracay on March 2, 1975, and remembers the island to be “empty.” “It was lonely at first because there were not much people,” he recalls. “Thankfully, we had a group with the Elizalde—eight security guards, some maintenance personnel. We were happy when there is dance in the barrio during fiesta. That was the only enjoyment. Then tuba (coconut wine). There weren’t much beer, just tuba and Tanduay (local brandy brand). Later on, election came. I was asked to be councilor. I said, ‘Why did I get involved here.’ They said, ‘It’s needed.’ I said okay, until it went on. I became a councilor here for a long time. You know, it was Marcos time, and terms got extended.” Salme also brought his girlfriend Josefina, who hails from Asingan, Pangasinan. They met when they were still in college; she

The delicious beef salpicao The Shrimp Pil Pil, an original creation of Junjun Salme of spicy shrimps with pumpkin seeds

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The restaurant of Jony’s Beach Resort started out with just tables and umbrellas by the beach, serving fruit shakes and Mexican items (right). It still serves Mexican dishes such as tacos, burritos and breakfast item Huevos Rancheros (below). Innovative Filipino dishes are also offered such as the caldereta, which uses paprika, feta cheese and black olives (facing page, below). Dionisio Salme, who owns Jony’s, is a pioneer in Boracay. His youngest son, Junjun, a culinary arts graduate, is the restaurant’s consultant (facing page).

was taking up nursing and chemistry at the Far Eastern University. When he was assigned to Boracay, they decided to live together. In the early 1980s, they decided to put up a fruit shake stand. By that time, there were tourists trickling in, mostly Swiss and German backpackers, most likely enticed by what German writer Jens Peters had written about Boracay in his guidebook. They came via Puerto Galera in Mindoro, then Tablas or Romblon, then to Boracay. The more affluent then chartered a small plane, which would land in a grassy patch of land in Caticlan. These tourists would look for refreshing drinks, which were not offered in the island. Salme got into the fruit shake business when a young Austrian backpacker broached the idea to him. He brought his own blender, powered by a battery, but he had nowhere to recharge his battery. So he packed up and sold the blender to Salme. Salme recalls there was no electricity at that time, and ice was a rarity and even the fruits. One had to go to Kalibo, which would take a whole day. Fortunately, a co-worker gave him a refrigerator, powered by kerosene. They were the only one in the island with a refrigerator and doing shakes. Soon, tourists were lining up for his banana, papaya, mango and pineapple shakes. They also began serving Mexican food—mostly burritos and tacos, which they thought foreigners would like—on tables with umbrellas set up along the beach. In 1979, Salme and a friend, a barangay captain, put up two huts near the plaza, which they rented out to tourists. In 1985, he acquired the land, about 800 square meters, where the present resort now stands. The following year, he built four cottages made out of coconut and nipa. Over the years, he built three more. In 1996, they were able to get bank loan to improve the structures and build more rooms. Now, Jony’s Beach Resort consists of one two-storey building and one three-storey building with a total of twenty-one rooms. Across the maid road, close to the beach, is the restaurant, which can accommodate eighty diners, constructed five years ago. The resort has an intimate and homey feel to it. The design is a medley of ideas Salme inspired by other resorts. He maintains 72

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the veneers of bamboo to affect a tropical island feel. The name is a misspelling of Salme’s nickname, Diony. He retained it because he thought it is also a combination his and his wife’s nicknames. The rooms at Jony’s have the de-riguere amenities of any decent resort—air-conditioning, hot and cold showers, cable TVs, telephones, mini-bars and Internet access. Five Superior Rooms are located on the ground floor and have double beds, while the six Deluxe Rooms have queen-size and single beds, bath tubs and verandas. The seven Super Deluxe Rooms have king-size beds,

while the Family Room can accommodate four guests. They have two suites. The La Perla Suite is designed for honeymooners with a living area and a small kitchen, while the La Concha Suite, which is the biggest room in the resort with two floors, can accommodate four guests, also with a living area and a small kitchen. Both are at the penthouse level with a spacious terrace, which affords guest a view of the sea. With the expansion of the resort, Salme and his family live in another property near the resort. All members are involved in running the resort. His eldest son, Frederick, being an engineer, is in charge of maintenance, while his daughter Jingjing takes care of the marketing and reservations. His youngest son, Dionisio, Jr., or Junjun, is a consultant at the restaurant. Jony’s restaurant is the most notable and promising aspect of the resort. Salme still offers his original fruit shakes, now having thirty to forty flavors and blends. They have become a tourist stop, included in many packaged tours. Also, the Mexican items are retained. Salme remembers the time when the Mexican ambassador dine din his restaurant incognito. The ambassador was impressed that he had his own cook teach Salme how to improve the dishes. Now, the Mexican menu got updated and a different treatment with Junjun, who is a culinary arts graduate. Junjun was born in Boracay but grew up in Bacolod City, the capital of Salme’s home province, where he went to seminary during high school and studied commerce at the University of St. La Salle. He decided to follow his heart and enrolled at the Center for Culinary Arts Manila. He is currently working at the upscale resort Discovery Shores to gain experience and likely to take over the restaurant. Junjun dreams of putting up his own restaurant in Bacolod City. For Jony’s, he wants the restaurant to have its own identity apart from the resort. He started with naming the

restaurant and is experimenting with Maya, which he thinks would unify the Mexican-Filipino offerings of the restaurant— being the name of the Central American group of people as well as the Eurasian tree sparrow, which is ubiquitous in the Philippines. For the Mexican part, Junjun introduced several innovative taco varieties. One is the suckling pig taco, which inspired by the pritchon. The suckling pig, marinated in orange juice and lemongrass, is pitroasted and served with lettuce and pico de gallo. The braised short ribs taco is short ribs braised until tender and served with caramelized onion. Fish lovers can order his beer-battered fish taco. On the other hand, the chorizo taco is inspired by a popular Boracay “street food,” the chori-burger, grilled Aklanon chorizo inside a grilled bun with spicy banana ketchup, which is surprisingly yummy. Aside from tacos, the restaurant also serves chimichangas, fajitas, burritos and quesadillas. For the Filipino part, Junjun want to focus more the regional cooking, particularly Aklan and the Visayas. Thus, there are the Aklanon favorites inuburan na manok, which is chicken and banana tree pith cooked in lemongrass and coconut milk, and ginataang tilapia, tilapia fillet poached in coconut cream with lemongrass and ginger. Also in the menu are the chicken binakol, a chicken soup with young coconut water and lemongrass, and chicken inasal, barbecued chicken drenched in annatto seed-infused oil. The sinigang of milkfish belly uses the sour fruit batwan, common in the region. A must-try Filipino dish is the pinakbet from his mother’s side. The quintessential Ilocano dish of vegetables and shrimp or fish paste served here came from the recipe her aunt, thus it is called Pinakbet ni Bebe. They use fermented fish sauce from Asingan instead of Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

The restaurant is situated by the beach, affording diners a good view of the sea. Order the salmon fillet on top of polenta (left)

shrimp paste; lots of tomato, giving the dish a reddish color; and sweet potato for a hint of sweetness. It is topped with crunchy fried pork belly, instead of bagnet, which is hard to source around here. For the popular Filipino stewed beef dish caldereta, Junjun uses lots of paprika, inspired by the Austrian goulash, and topped with pieces of feta cheese and slices of black olives. He also included a few of his own creations in the menu—the Shrimp Pil Pil, a Spanish-inspired appetizer of spicy seared shrimps with pumpkin seeds; the Oysters and Pearls, Aklan oysters poached in buerre blanc and topped with lumpfish cavaiar; steamed mussels in coconut juice, lemongrass and ginger; and chicken wings and salted mango, fried chicken wings in sweet and spicy sauce and served with salted green mango. The restaurant also serves breakfast items, soups, salads, pasta dishes, burgers and sandwiches, pizzas, salads and desserts. The look is also being upgraded to keep up with the casual to fine dining projection. Some parts of resort are likewise undergoing upgrade or renovation to keep us with the ever-changing development of Boracay, all according to the children’s decision. For Salme, he is satisfied with the blessings that keep coming in. 74

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Getting There

Boracay Island is at the northwest tip of Panay Island. There are several flights from Manila to Caticlan, a barangay in Malay, Aklan. From Caticlan, one can ride a tricycle, or walk to the jetty port. From Caticlan, there is a short boat ride to Boracay. Flights can be as fast as 36 minutes. Some planes such as Zest Air, land in Kalibo, the capital of Aklan. From there, there is a two-hour ride to Caticlan. From Iloilo City, Boracay can be reached by bus or van with travel time of four to five hours.

Contact Information

Jony’s Beach Resort can be contacted through telephone number (+63 36) 288-6119, fax number (+63 36) 288-3119, mobile numbers +63920-9267679 and +63922-8443648 and emails reservations@ jonysresort.com and jonysboracay@yahoo.com. Log on to Website www.jonysboracay.com.

ying at the heart of the southern summer capital, One Tagaytay Place hotel Suites continues to entice both locals and tourists alike, making it a haven for anyone seeking escape from urban stress.

One Tagaytay Place offers all the amenities of a city hotel; cozy and tastefully designed deluxe rooms, 1Bedroom and Penthouse suites, the elegant Aurora ballroom, fast becoming popular for weddings, the nature-inspired Alta Verde, newest of the several function rooms for corporate or banquet events,” say Karl C. Velhagen, One Tagaytay Place Hotel Suites General Manager. Now heading towards its fourth year of operations, the hotel is fast gaining loyal patrons with its exceptional facilities and amenities as well as commendable service as reviewed by guests on Trip Advisor. The penthouse Premier Suites, available in one to three-bedrooms, offer guests enviable views of Taal Lake and the alluring mountain scenery. The three-bedroom suite can comfortably house six adults, plus a maid’s room for the families and is conducive to small corporate planning and brainstorming.

Azalea, One Tagaytay's all-day dining restaurant, provides a full dose of gastronomic satisfaction with its chic and comfy interiors, plus mouth watering FilipinoSpanish inspired dishes. A definite destination for food enthusiasts, the restaurant offer daily a la carte Tagaytay specialties with particular culinary twists. The stylish café is also equipped with a dining room for private meetings up to ten persons. “We want to put Azalea as a destination restaurant of choice when (people) go to Tagaytay and what better way to change the menu than to serve what's available

in the local,” says Chef Ron Manalo, executive chef of One Tagaytay Place's Azalea Restaurant. A must try are two of Chef Ron's original Tawilis and kesong puti Pizza and Pasta. Who knew tawilis tastes heavenly on pizza One Tagaytay Place Hotel Suites also boasts of hotel facilities fit for outdoor enthusiasts. One can spend their time swimming at the hotel's pool both for kids and adults or get the adrenaline going on the fitness center. The vacation sanctuary also has a spa/wellness center, delicacies and souvenir shop as well as a viewing deck. All of these and more await guests on their quest for a very satisfying experience as shared by Odette Aguilar, One Tagaytay’s Director of Sales and Marketing. For reservations, you may call (632) 477.7111 or 584.4111, email sales@onetagaytayplace.com, reservations@onetagaytayplace.com. Also visit their website at www.onetagaytayplace.com for more info. Be sure to look at the photos and be tempted!

ACCOMMODATIONS

By Gesel Mangilit Strategically located in the central Luzon provinces of Pampanga and Tarlac, a pleasant one-and-a-half hour’s drive from Metro Manila, the Clark Special Economic Zone has become the goto place for conventions and a hub for business, tourism, entertainment and gaming in the country. Whether for leisure or business, it offers a number of worldclass hotel accommodations for the most discriminating business traveler or visitor. Once called Fort Stotsenberg, a grazing area for United States Cavalry horses, Clark has seen a remarkable transformation from being the largest American military installation in Asia outside the United States until the Mount Pinatubo eruption when the Americans ceded control to the country. Now, it is known as the Clark Freeport Zone, a bustling microcosm of a city made of duty-free shops, an economic and industrial area, dining places where visitors can savor the famous Pampangan cuisine and luxurious leisure hotels, among them, Hotel Stotsenberg. Situated inside the Air Force City, Hotel Stotsenberg is a sprawling five-hectare property built in the style of a Moroccan palatial home. Designed by engineer Damian Ramos, who conceptualized the theme park Enchanted Kingdom in Santa

The Fort of Luxury Rosa, Laguna, the hotel was cleverly built around an old military barracks of United States air servicemen, particularly the one once occupied by Colonel John M. Stotsenburg. The brave American officer was killed in the Philippine-American war while leading his regiment in the famous Battle of Quingua. The parade grounds park next to the Clark Development Council (CDC) headquarters and the nearby Clark Museum contains memorabilia and artifacts from the remarkable glory years of Fort Stotsenberg, an interesting side trip for history buffs. Hotel Stotsenberg is comprised of 236 well-appointed rooms. The grandest is the 163 square-meter John Stotsenberg Suite. With its modern accoutrements, each door opens up to a living room, a dining area, an ante room, a two-twin-beds guest room with its own toilet and shower room, a master bedroom with a walk-in closet, a toilet and a shower room and Jacuzzi. Its

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

tastefully antique hand-carved, furnished interiors gleam under the warm glow of recessed lighting, perfect as an exclusive honeymoon venue, ensuring privacy and relaxation, tastefully prepared for luxury and comfort. The other 236 rooms are found within the four building—buildings A, B, C and D– facing a central courtyard. You can get lost in the maze of walkways on your first foray into the hotel grounds. Consult the directory map in the lobby before you venture out on your own. But you will find your bearings again as soon as you walk in the manicured gardens of the central courtyard. By day, it is a perfect place to relax and take in the peaceful surroundings. By night, it becomes a place for romantic walks especially on a starless night with the moon visible in the sky. Unable to sleep at night, I walked past the trellis-lined pathway, planted with allamanda, and sat on one of the wrought-iron garden benches.

For those who find a walk in the courtyard too sedentary, other exciting activities can be had. Those with a penchant for games of chance can try their luck at the hotel’s Casablanca Casino, which is open throughout the night, with entertainers featured nightly in the Bogart Casino Theater. The weekend I spent there, I was able to watch the Pacquiao-Marquez fight live via satellite after a hearty breakfast at the Twist Café, located at the lobby, but I missed the performance of singer/stage actress Cacai Bautista the night before. Hotel Stotsenberg is a favorite for large conventions and company team-buildings, owing to its extensive grounds. Parking is never a problem. Family vacations are also ideally spent here because they have provisions for kids, like the newly painted and spacious playroom, Totsland, and for the moms with the spa right next to it. Fitness buffs can still keep fit with the wellequipped Trim gym, which faces the large pool. Jogging paths along the tree-lined area around the hotel are wonderful for morning walks. Weddings are also made special with a set-up by the pool, just after making a grand entrance at the cavernous and elegantly designed driveway. During the tour of the facilities, our host, PR and marketing manager Perry Gamboa, shared that they intend to move Twist Café to another area so they can open a new restaurant serving Spanish cuisine. The restaurant will be the first authentic Spanish restaurant in Clark. Other restaurants within the hotel—the S Bar, a videoke bar/gaming room with a resto-bar; Stots Grill with its alfresco dining; Bleu Bar

by the poolside; and a patisserie—offer the best of international, Asian and Filipino cuisines. They also have an extensive wine list at Twist Café, located in the lobby, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a baby piano for music and entertainment. Three hectares of the hotel property are still unused so there is plenty of room to grow. The hotel gets a steady stream of guests with events in and around Clark such as El Kabayo and the Philipppine International Hot Air Balloon Festival. Activities may not be limited to the hotel since there is plenty to see around Clark such as the Salakot, the U.S. Memorial Cemetery and a grand parol festival in December. Needless to say, a stay at the Hotel Stotsenberg will always be a pleasant experience, filled with history, art and entertainment. Mix in business and your stay will likely still be a memorable one.

Contact Information Hotel Stotsenberg is located at Gil Puyat Avenue corner A. Soriano Street, Clark Special Economic Zone, San Fernando, Pampanga, with telephone number (+63 45) 499-0777 and fax number (+63 45) 499-0725. Their Website is www.hotelstotsenberg.net.

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

LEISURE and ADVENTURE

Puerto Galera Yacht Club Holds All Souls Regatta Photos by Terry Duckham

Serenity 1 heels hard to leeward under full spinnaker

Chris Boddington’s trimaran, Windjammer, raced in a class of her own

Austen Chamberlain’s Sorcerer shows the speed and style that won her third place overall

Irresistible and Dany II battle it out beating into the Sabang mark

Slalom Glade leads China Rose and Rags into the finish line off Haligi Beach

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he Puerto Galera Yacht Club recently held the All Souls Regatta from October 29 to 31, 2011— three days of excellent sailing weather and three parties full of joviality and laughter—in celebration of the twentieth anniversary of the yacht club. Twenty-three yachts traveled to Puerto Galera, the resort town in the northeast of Mindoro Island, for the Halloween and the race, which was sponsored by Asian Terminal and Royal Cargo. The smallest entry was David Wheeler’s Cape Carib 33, Free Wheeler II, while the biggest boat this year was Gundolf Ahrens’s mighty Van Dam 57 ketch, Aragorn. In between were notables: Jun Avecilla’s First 36.7, Selma Star, and Ray Ordoveza’s Andrew 53, Karakoa. The most entertaining event was the Halloween party where most yachts pitched in with costumes and antics. The booby prize for the most sails destroyed during an event went to Karakoa who lost three jibs, two spinnakers and a mainsail within just two races. The race, including two new courses, produced a mix of results but the overall winner, for the first time, was Karakoa, closely followed by the Crew of Rapparee XXX and Austen Chamberlain’s Sorcerer. In the PY Cruising, the first place went to Free Wheeler II (David Wheeler) followed by Stargazer (Joe Musial) and Ponggolona (Jurgen Kirsten). In PY Racing, the first place was clinched by Crew of Rapparee XXX followed by Slalom Glade (Goram Rudelius) and Cocobolo (Ton Van Hierden). In the Multihulls category, first place went to Windjammer in a class of her own. The IRC Racing first placer is Karakoa (Ray Ordoveza) followed by Sorcerer (Austen Chamberlain) and Selma Star (Jun Avecilla) on the count-back rule.

LIVING

The Flood Control Measures of

Pueblo de Oro

he residential projects of Pueblo de Oro Development Corporation (PODC) have been put to the test in the recent weather challenges and have continued to pass with flying colors. This is because of initiatives in the planning and design of flood control measures that the company has adopted since it began developing its communities 15 years ago. PODC has always believed in putting quality and responsible engineering and design into its developments, as reflected in its slogan, “The Gold Standard in Community Living.” And one of the factors it has consistently paid attention to is the flood control measures, even before it became apparent that climate change was making this an important concern in property development. Thus, in its 360-hectare master-planned township in Cagayan de Oro, residents have been spared from floods that have affected other parts of the city. And now, PODC has taken this gold standard of planning and engineering to its newer residential developments in San Fernando, Pampanga; Sto. Tomas, Batangas; and Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu.

Pueblo de Oro’s Elevated Developments in Pampanga

As Typhoon Bebeng, Falcon, Pedring lashed down on waterlogged San Fernando City last May, June and September 2011, Pueblo de Oro Pampanga Communities was one of the few areas in the barangay of Del Carmen that remained high and dry. This is because PODC took the precaution of having a flood water study conducted prior to commencing

La Aldea Fernandina situated in the barangay of Del Carmen, San Fernando, Pampanga, is elevated two meters above its original level making all properties flood-free and accessible.

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Pueblo de Oro Township in Cagayan de Oro is hardly affected by flooding due to superior location of being perched more than 80 meters above sea level. Also, Pueblo’s detention pond in Cagayan Valley serves as a dissipator and catch basin for excess rainwater.

its development activities there, and as a result of its findings, spent close to Php150 million to elevate its 30-hectare residential community by 1.5 to two meters above its original level and to introduce an efficient drainage system that allows rainwater to spread through different canals and freely run off. By coincidence, a PODC marketing team was in Europe at the time of Typhoon Falcon and was describing the three exclusive subdivisions. A homeowner shared with the team: “At the height of typhoon Falcon, 17 towns and cities were submerged knee-deep in water, but Pueblo de Oro Communities in the barangay of Del Carmen remained floodfree and accessible. Pueblo de Oro is really a good investment because they not only protect your home but the safety of its homeowners.”

Pueblo de Oro’s Flood Containment Measures in Cagayan de Oro

In Cagayan de Oro City, PODC implemented structures such as major concrete drainage outfall down the hillside and a large detention pond in the valley were constructed to serve as a dissipator and catch basin, respectively, for excess water. The 6,700-square meter pond, which has a maximum depth of six meters, can hold up to 23,000 cubic meters of rain and drainage water and was built not only for the benefit of Pueblo residents in the valley, but also to delay water build up which could lead to flooding in nearby areas bounded by the two streams that empty into the Calaanan Creek. The effectiveness of the system was proven in 2009, when the city suffered the worse flash food in 30 years and several districts were severely flooded, especially in the downtown area. The detention pond was able to contain the excess water without overspilling, thus protecting the residents of Pueblo and nearby communities.

Pedigree in Responsible Developments

PODC’s efforts in seeking to ensure that its developments are of high quality and provide necessary engineering measures for the safety and convenience of its residents should not be surprising. The Company is a part of the ICCP Group, which among its members include Science Park of the Philippines, Inc. (SPPI)., which owns 54 percent of PODC through a wholly owned subsidiary. SPPI is an acknowledged leader in industrial park developments, and part of its reputation stems from the excellence of its engineering designs. As early as its first project, Light Industry and Science Park I (LISP I), in 1989, SPPI was one of the pioneers in introducing centralized waste water systems in industrial parks in the Philippines. Then, in LISP III, the company spent Php50 million to construct an underground box culvert to channel purified waste water as well as storm drainage run-off 1.2 km to the San Juan River, in order to ensure that it did not flood the National Highway or surrounding areas with the effluent.

Pueblo de Oro Provides Safe and Dependable Developments

Indeed, at PODC, you can rely on developments to be engineered for safety and dependability, even when some of its features are not readily apparent to the buyer’s naked eye. The company believes that responsible developers with solid reputations are those which are committed to environmentfriendly programs and effective measures for the responsible protection of its buyers.

Contact Information Visit www.pueblodeoro.com for more information about all their projects. Call +63971-8336154 Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Why I Stay in

Manila By Beth Day Romulo

Each fall, when I make my annual visit to New York, someone inevitably queries me about why I continue to live in the Philippines when my own family and many friends live in the United States. And, as a matter of face, there was a time when I thought that whenever I found myself alone again (as I anticipated being, since General Romulo was considerably older than I), that, at most, I would wish to spend part of the year in Manila. But by the time I was widowed (1985) I had been here so long, this was truly my preferred home for a number of reasons. First, there is my Romulo family, which consists of stepsons, daughtersin-law, grandchildren and now great grandchildren as those grandchildren have grown up, married and are busily producing the next generation. In the United States I have one brother and his children. Here I am the matriarch of an expanding clan of various and interesting personalities whom I thoroughly enjoy. We all interconnect regularly, not on a formal basis, but by telephone and twice-a-month Sunday lunches and often we find ourselves at the same social events. Filipino families are large, inclusive and for the aging members provide a pleasant feeling of protection. They obviate the sense of being alone. Then there is my work here. I am a writer by profession and after General Romuloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death I was invited to be a columnist to cover international

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 â&#x20AC;˘ Number 4 â&#x20AC;˘ 2011

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affairs and the United Nations for the Manila Bulletin. Since I had traveled with my late husband when he was Foreign Secretary, and learned a good deal about foreign policy, diplomacy and the like, from him, this suited me very well as a kind of writing to do at this stage of my life. Previously I had been a full-time freelance writer in New York working on assignment from magazines and publishers and writing books and articles. Now I write three columns each week-two on international and some national political affairs for the daily paper, and one “art of living” for the Sunday magazine, Panorama, which has to do with health, happiness and survival. I enjoy the instant feedback that newspaper writing provides. What appears in my column one day may result in telephone call or chats in the grocery, that same day. While a book only appears months after one has finished writing it. Sometimes years. In short, this sort of writing provides me instant communication with my readers. And since I have no personal agenda, they seem to trust what I write. Filipino hospitality is legendary with good reason.

Through my years here I have seen many diplomats leave with great reluctance knowing that they simply will not be received with the same open-handed cordiality in other posts in other countries. There is also the comfort factor which keeps me here which becomes increasingly important as one ages. When I’m in New York, although I must admit that the city has become far less threatening than it once was, I am entirely alone. I have a small apartment, but no househelp except for a cleaning lady once a week. A friend in Manila once asked, knowing how close I am to my dog, whether I hake her there with me but I wouldn’t think of it. She is much freer and happier here in my back garden, than she would be on a leash in Manhattan. I don’t mind marketing and cooking for myself but transportation is a problem. The avuncular Jewish and Irish taxi drivers of my youth have disappeared replaced by immigrants who often don’t know the Manhattan streets very well and whose English is inadequate. They can be so frustrating that, if feasible, I take a public bus instead. Here I have a care and driver, a luxury I could never afford in New York, but which is very important to my well-being at this stage of my life. He is the husband of my housekeeper and they have been with me twenty years. I do not consider myself a retiree in the sense of professional inactivity since I would as hard as I ever did when I was young. However, now I do for my own pleasure. Writing is one of those lucky choices of a profession that can be continued so long as you can see and think. When someone asked the advice columnist “Dear Abby” who, I believe, when she was 77 years of age, how she wanted to die, she said simply “at my typewriter.” I quite agree with her.

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

DINING

ne of the best things at the beaches of Sabang, a tourist-frequented, crowded clutter of resorts, bars, shops and other structures in the resort town of Puerto Galera, northeast of Oriental Mindoro, is uncharacteristically the steak. Even though the surroundings and your romantic mind are screaming for the absolutely apt seafood, you must try the steaks at Hemingway’s Bistrot, a little restaurant just a hop and skip away from the shore. And the restaurant serves only Certified Angus Beef, the American brand of high-quality prime beef from Angus cattle, known for its tenderness and exquisite flavor. “We’re the only Certified Angus Beef restaurant in the whole of Mindoro,” emphasizes Wolfgang Martin, the fiftysomething German owner. “Bringing in the Certified Angus Beef to Puerto Galera was a huge success for us,” adds the American executive chef Jacob Paul Pulkrabek. “We are the only restaurant on Mindoro Island that has the rights from the United States to sell Certified Angus Beef. Our provider in Manila has a great selection of steaks and beefs that we use here: rib-eye, New York strip, T-bones…all great quality steaks that everyone loves!” Aside from the steaks, the restaurant offers a wide array of dishes—breakfast, hams and sausages, salads, sandwiches, seafood, pasta, Filipino, American and German, of course—all guaranteed by the owner and chef to be of high quality not usually found in the barangay of Sabang, which is studded with low- and mid-budget lodges. This kind of quality in food, according to Martin, no one is doing in Sabang. Puerto Galera, known for having some of the

Hemingway’s Bistrot in Sabang, Puerto Galera, has a tropical feel to it and a laidback atmosphere but it serves fine-ding cuisines (above). Popular dishes include the Certified Angus Beef rib-eye and the dolphinfish fillet cooked Caribbean style with homemade mango chutney and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar reduction (below).

most beautiful dive sites in the country, is frequented by divers and yuppies from Metro Manila, being the most accessible beach destination from the Philippine capital. There are ample dive shops here as well as affordable accommodations, especially in Sabang and in the White Beach area, but restaurants serving good food are very few. “The food quality here in Sabang is really bad,” comments Martin, who wishes for competition so that the dining scene here improves. As of now, they claim Hemingway’s

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Bistrot to be the only place to go to for fine dining. The restaurant opened in October 20, 2009, by Martin, who also operates the dive center Octopus Divers in the Sabang area, and his partner Wilfried Walter, the restaurant’s master butcher. Martin has been visiting Puerto Galera for many years. In Germany, he spent twelve years in the army eventually becoming a helicopter mechanic. After that, he set up his own company and has been involved in information technology. In 2007, Martin settled in Sabang, where he went into his first restaurant venture. In February

Hemingway’s Bistrot Boasts of the Best Steaks in the Whole of Mindoro

By Roel Hoang Manipon • Photos by Bob Jerezo and Donald Tapan

2009, Martin and Walter, who came from Sinandigan Lodge, acquired Villa Sabang restaurant and bar. “At Villa Sabang, when we were starting, we made people happy with good food,” Martin relates. The placed eventually closed down though and the property bought by a Korean group. The two then took over the pre-existing Hemingway’s, named after the legendary American writer Ernest Hemingway, gave it a makeover and affecting a “fine-dining atmosphere with traditional German-style cuisine and also…Filipino dishes as well as an array of international cuisine.” Pulkrabek, who was an intern at the Villa Sabang, also came on board, and the menu evolved to what it is now. “There was a real need for a fine-dining restaurant here on the beach. The concept has been working ever since,” relates Pulkrabek, who has traveled all over the Philippines for seven years. Hailing from Roosevelt, Minnesota, Pulkrabek has a culinary arts degree from the Northwest Technical College in Moorhead and has worked in several restaurants and hotels including the Hotel

Sofitel in Minneapolis. He traveled to learn other cuisines such as Mexican, German and Thai. In the Philippines, he went around northern Luzon and the Visayas until settling in Puerto Galera, about 130 kilometers south of Manila, and helping open Hemingway’s Bistrot. Hemingway’s Bistrot, which can accommodate maybe about a hundred customers, opens up to the sea and sports an eclectic tropical island look, typical in this part of the country—ceiling of woven bamboo strips, locally called sawali; whitewashed walls; hanging lanterns fashioned from sarong; driftwood accents; rattan chairs; flags as decorations. The restaurant immediately started to use imported ingredients, which increased over time, and Martin realized how this affected the quality of the dishes they serve. Now, 85 percent of the restaurant’s ingredients are sourced abroad. Even the vegetables are imported from Belgium and Europe such as the Brussels sprouts, broccoli and baby carrots. Thus, the prices of their offerings kept going up. A full meal ranges from Php700 to as much as Php2,000. To sweeten the cost of dishes, the restaurant offers soup, salad and coffee or homemade orange brandy to go with an order of any of the entrees. For such a small place, Hemingway’s Bistrot surprisingly have a comprehensive and hefty menu, which can fit in the whole The Old Man and the Sea. “My menu here has a large variety for all tastes but there is a real flair from my Minnesota background for cooking of steaks. Also, all different places I have traveled to and worked in have made me a good chef with a good palate for good gastronomy, along with my French culinary

studies from working at the Hotel Sofitel,” explains Pulkrabek. “I have to stress this very much with any entrée served here at Hemingway’s Bistrot: I serve every entrée with a homemade soup, which I prepare daily so the soup always changes, and a fresh garden green salad or a mix of fresh leafy greens—green bean salad, coleslaw, radish salad and cucumber salad finished with my homemade onion vinaigrette.” “Basically I just took ideas and recipes that I have been working with over the years and just ran with it. Also, a lot of it came from what was not being offered here on the beach, at the other restaurants,” Pulkrabek shares. “Even before the concept came about, I was going out to different places to try the food. Not to be judgmental, but nothing really stuck out as ‘Wow, this is a great place.’ Ideally, what essentially has been created here at Hemingway’s Bistrot is an experience that people don’t soon forget and will come back time and time again. We try our very best to have first-class service and food and beverages.” Pulkrabek further says: “I have made changes over the last two years but not many. Sometimes, I would try different seafood, steak, or pasta ideas and see how it works and if it sells or not. I would have to say that a very important part of my menu is the imported products that I get from the United States and Europe. The most important thing that I believe here is that the menu should never die. What I mean is I like for it to keep changing and adding a new dish or change how we make things here to increase the level of quality to the guests. My boss and I are always looking for new products in Manila and trying to get new items in to see if will work or not.” An important part of the menu is, yes,

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Pasta dishes are also served in the restaurant and the carbonara is a popular choice, but its pride is the steaks because it uses the high-end Certified Angus Beef brand. Entrees come with soup of the day and salads.

the seafood. “I personally love to work with fish and seafood’s just about as much as working with steaks,” Pulkrabek confesses. “The selection of different fishes and seafood options is always a hit with the tourists who come for the fresh seafood and fish. I created a fish and seafood platter, good for two people. With this item, which is very popular, the customers get to try a few different styles and selection I do here at Hemingway’s: a variety fish and seafood consisting of a delicious 250-gram lapu-lapu complimented with fresh garlic butter sauce, 250gram fillet of mahi-mahi or dorado served with a homemade hot spicy Caribbean mango chutney, 200-gram of tiger prawns, deep fried to perfection and served with a wasabi mayo dip, 150 grams of grilled squid, and 100 grams of imported U.S. scallops, pan-fried to perfection.” Another recommended seafood dish in the restaurant is the Carribean-style mahi-mahi (or dorado) fillet, which is pan-fried and served with spicy homemade mango chutney and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar reduction. “It is a great success,” Pulkrabek enthuses. “This dish especially I wanted to create to go along with the works of Ernest Hemingway, giving this dish that flair of the Cuban/Caribbean theme, where he spent a large part of his life writing some very famous books.” With grouper, salmon, prawn and squid already in the menu, Pulkrabek is always introducing more items. “When I was outsourcing and looking for new seafood ideas, I came across imported scallops from the United States, which has also been a great success here, and I don’t think anyone else serves them here on the beach, the bacon-wrapped scallops, golden panfried and served with Tagliatelle pasta tossed in a homemade garlic and parsley cream sauce. I’m now looking to get imported lobster tails from Canada or USA and possibly looking to try some imported mussels from Brazil. With my French culinary background, [I can] make moules mariniere (mussels in a white wine cream sauce with shallots, garlic and parsley) but we will see if I can get them,” he 86

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says. “But my latest fish entrée is imported Greenland halibut steak, a boneless halibut fillet pan-fried golden brown, served medium rare to bring out the best quality of the fish, and served on a bed of imported spinach and artichoke hearts sautéed with garlic and butter then finished with a basil and parsley-infused olive oil.” Hemingway’s Bistrot also serves pasta dishes, which can rival several Italian restaurants in town. “We have a great selection of different pasta dishes, and all the pasta is imported from Italy,” Pulkrabek says. “When I make my tomato sauces, all my tomatoes in can are also imported from Italy. Ever popular is carbonara— hickory-smoked bacon cubes sautéed with onions and garlic then finished with a creamy imported Italian parmesan cheese sauce. Another favorite is our seafood marinara with authentic homemade marinara sauce with fresh tomatoes, onions, garlic and basil. It is slow-cooked to perfection and topped with sautéed squid, shrimp, mussels, octopus and white fish. Another popular pasta dish is our spicy arrabiata with authentic homemade tomato sauce sautéed with fresh tomatoes, garlic, onions, green chili and fresh basil.” Among the American and German dishes, Pulkrabek managed to squeeze in some Filipino dishes such as Bicol Express, squid adobo, caldereta, tinola and sinigang. “I have to give a lot of credit to my great staff of waiters and waitresses, to my great cooks in the kitchen. They have been willing to learn my styles and to teach me about their local foods,” he smiles. “We offer a good selection of local dishes. The only thing is I use only imported beef tenderloin for the beef dishes, and for the pork and chicken dishes I use only pork tenderloin and boneless chicken

breast. It’s a bit of a step away from so-called ‘local’ Filipino cuisine, but even all the Filipinos who eat here really enjoy what we do.” Thus, their Bicol Express uses pieces of pork tenderloin, slowcooked with onions, green chili, and bell pepper in a spicy coconut sauce, while for the caldereta, imported beef tenderloin is used, fried with potatoes, onions and garlic and then cooked in a rich tomato and peanut sauce. But the star of the restaurant is the Certified Angus Beef. In Metro Manila, Certified Angus Beef is served in posh hotels and a few fine-dining restaurants. Here, one can dine on it in a laidback atmosphere with the view of the sea, feet sprinkled with sand and skin touched with sea salt. “Any of our Certified Angus Beef steaks are always a great choice for the steak lovers out there. With the attention to quality and consistency of the products offered, you really can be sure to have a juicy and tender steak every single time,” says Pulkrabek. “I would recommend our imported beef tenderloin chateaubriand, good for two people or up to four people, ranging from 500 grams up to 1.4 kilograms. The reason I recommend the chateaubriand is it’s an experience that you can’t find in a lot of places where the chef comes to the table and cuts the prepared tenderloin in front of the guest. It is served with my homemade sauce béarnaise. Also our beef tenderloin steak selections are also very popular, apart from just the

The two-year-old Hemingway’s Bistrot is located just by the beach, affording diners a great view of the sea, in the popular tourist strip of Sabang.

regular steak cuts. One of the most popular is my tournedos au poivre with brandy cream sauce (black peppercorn-crusted imported beef tenderloin, pan-seared to perfection and finished with a homemade light brandy cream sauce). This dish was inspired from my early days as a chef working with some top French chefs in Minnesota.” The highly-prized meat is also served in other forms: burger for example. Pulkrabek says: “Being American, burgers are a staple of our culture, so I introduced here in Puerto Galera Certified Angus Beef burgers, 180-gram, 100-percent pure beef burger, ranging from cheeseburger to our most popular The Works Burger, served with imported cheddar cheese, hickory-smoked bacon, lettuce, onion, tomato, imported Dijon mustard, imported American mayo and homemade barbecue sauce. Also I have a so-called Eating Challenge Burger. Named after one of my friends and long-time customer of Hemingway’s, he asked me one day to make him a burger, and he said “I’m hungry!” So I created the Benny Burger, named after my friend who first ate it, two pure ground Certified Angus Beef burgers, one topped with imported cheddar cheese and smoked bacon and the other topped with imported Galbani Gorgonzola Bleu cheese (fifty grams) and forest ham. They are served with lettuce, onions, tomatoes and imported American mayo.” A good wine is a great accompaniment for the steaks, and Hemingway’s Bistrot has a broad drinks list. “We pride ourselves in having a great selection of fine wines and top shelf spirits that the customers can enjoy” Pulkrabek informs. “My boss is always going to different wine retailers, tasting different wines and bringing some back to try, and if they’re selling we put in on the card. We like to have a range of white and red wines from all over the world. Also we have a great selection of German wheat beers that no other restaurant is selling, all imported from Germany, dark and light wheat beers which become real favorites of anyone who tries them.” “I believe what makes us stand out the most is our attention to detail in both the restaurant itself and in the kitchen. I pride myself on two very important principles: quality and consistency. I make sure the level of quality never goes down every time you come in and order a meal and then return. From the friendly hard working wait staff to the quality and taste of the meals, they never go down or lose consistency, which is the best I can make it every single time,” declares Pulkrarek. “I also think we stand out with the level of products that we use here at the restaurant, the imported goods. Yes, they do cost a bit more, and it reflects in our prices but that in turn they make better-quality entrees. He further says, “We here at Hemingway’s Bistrot are always open to new ideas, and we always make sure and ask every guest if everything’s okay, how was the meal, and we always welcome feedback, positive or negative. We have to see what we are doing is correct and what we can improve on. I think in the last two years of service, we can only change and get better, and we plan to do so here in the Philippines for many years to come and give the locals as well as the tourists a dining experience that they will not soon forget.”

Contact Information Hemingway’s Bistrot, open from 10:30 A.M. to 10:30 P.M., is in Small La Laguna Beach, Sabang, Puerto Galera, with telephone number (+63 43) 2873560, mobile phone number +63920-2060553, and email address info@ hemingways-bistrot.com. Visit Web site www.hemingways-bistrot.com.

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Delights at

Luca’s Cucina Italiana Restaurant

By Nina Elyca J. Rabadam Photos by Donald Tapan

uca’s Cucina Italiana Restaurant sits in an area of Talipanan Beach which the locals call the “dead end” of Puerto Galera’s shoreline. Despite its uncharacteristic location, vacationers regard it a dining haven because it offers sumptuous Italian dishes serve in big portions and provides a quieter retreat, away from the bustling crowds of nearby beaches. Arriving at Luca’s Cucina Italiana Restaurant on a quiet Sunday for lunch proved to be bliss. Though our group experienced a steep and bumpy drive going to the place, the weariness immediately went away when we arrived and welcomed by tall trees and refreshing sight of greenery surrounding it.

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

Luca’s Cucina Italiana Restaurant is located in Talipanan Beach

Luca’s Cucina Italiana is the restaurant of Luca’s Miramare Lodge, a 1,000-square meter resort. It can accommodate 120 diners and has a balcony, where one can have a panoramic view of the sea, hear waves crashing and feel the breeze and warmth of the sun. That Sunday, what added to the realaxing vibe of the place was the acoustic music played by a small foreign band. The

staff served us two of its popular dishes including its very own, homemade 14-inch Luca’s Pizza, topped with tomato, ham, salami, mushrooms and onions. Its mix of spices creates a sweet and pleasant taste. The pasta marinara, with tuna, shrimps, mussels and calamari, is drenched with creamy, red sauce. Luca’s Cucina Italiana is not only open for the lodge’s guests. Anyone, even those coming from nearby resorts, can drop by the restaurant and order its dishes, which are very affordable. It is also a perfect place to hold functions and get-togethers including weddings, birthdays, or other events. It has an approachable and accommodating staff, ready to assist diners. According to Shiela Mae, wife of the owner, Italian restaurateur and businessman Gianluca Calzolari, he always has a zest for life. He is a friendly and accommodating man, who loves serene moments and passionately pursues his interests. First and foremost, he loves to cook. He loves to create new dishes which his diners can try. He also loves to sing. On Sundays or whenever there are performers in the restaurant, he makes it a point to render a performance. As one of its performers told, “Luca loves to sing. We perform a duet but he’s always been the star of the show.” There’s a saying that when you cook, you do so with love and joy in your heart because these are ingredients that will make dish delightful. This is how Luca does it. The passion in his heart inspires him to create dishes that everyone loves, making his restaurant a go-to place for many vacationers of the island.

Getting There Luca’s Cucina Italiana Restaurant can be reached via a boat ride or by land. It is about 30 to 45 minutes from the Muelle Pier of Puerto Galera.

Contact Information Luca’s Cucina Italiana Restaurant can be contacted through mobile phone numbers +63916-4175125 and +63917-7925263 and email address luchinotalipanan@yahoo.com. Web site is www.lucaphilippines.com.

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

ENCOUNTER

Up Close with South African Ambassador

Agnes Nyamande-Pitso

By G. Pereyra Photos by Donald Tapan

gnes Nyamande-Pitso walks through the lobby of her office with a warm smile on her face and greets us with a cheerful “Good Morning,” disarming us for the moment. This is the first time we are interviewing an

ambassador. During our very interesting chat, she proves to be a very warm, intelligent and engaging conversationalist and is very passionate about her job as the first South African ambassador to the Philippines. Anyone will agree that she possesses the kind of personality that easily draws people in, which all the more makes her a very apt representative of her home country. She worked in the private sector as an educator, development worker and entrepreneur until she started her diplomatic career just after South Africa became a new democracy in 2005. She was consul general in Dubai and the Northern Emirates, a position she held for four years until she was appointed ambassador to the Philippines in March 2010. Her educational background includes a master’s degree in agriculture from Reading University in the United Kingdom, a Management Advance Program Studies certificate from Witwatersrand University and an MBA from U21 Global (Singapore). She is currently enrolled for a doctoral degree in business administration in the Swiss Management Center. She seems unfazed by the hectic schedule she keeps. With studies and shuttling back and forth to Cape Town and Manila, she still manages to keep in step with her many duties and responsibilities at the embassy. “It is quite a difficult task, but our goal is to improve what has been achieved so far such as enhancing the trade, investment and tourism relationships between our two countries,” she says. She cites the two important areas of cooperation between South Africa and the Philippines as mining and tourism. “We have over a hundred years of experience in the mining sector so we have the expertise and the technology. Although the Philippines is rich in natural resources most of it remain untapped,” she says. She believes that South Africa can contribute in skills enhancement through joint ventures with local companies. To date, two of the biggest mining companies in South Africa, Gold Fields Limited and Harmony Gold Mining Company, has expressed their interest in investing in the Philippines, particularly in Mankaya, Benguet, and the Tampakan copper gold mine in General Santos City. On the other hand, South Africa would like to cooperate with the Philippines in the maritime sector, specifically maritime training. The remarkable growth of our call center industry has also awakened their interest in the business process outsourcing sector. While South Africa currently imports Philippine products such as car components, electronics, furniture, tuna and wood, the Philippines on the other hand, import quality products from South Africa such as

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

maize, wine, juices and electronic components. South African wines are among the best in the world. Through trade agreements, wine of this quality can be sold thirty to ninety percent less than wines of similar quality from the United States, Australia, New Zealand and Chile. Nyamande-Pitso says tourism will play a big part in developing bilateral relations between both countries, which can be achieved through an effective tri-media campaign and formulating competitive tourism packages to South Africa and vice versa. It’s not so much about investments, she says, as it is fostering a friendship that promotes trust. “The friendship between the two countries is still very young so I think frequent interactions between the two communities through tourism would be our main goal. Tourism demystifies people, and with it you open a gate for the two countries to know each other more as a people and as a nation. Cooperation would be lacking if there is no frequent interaction between the South African community and the Filipino community,” she explains. She describes the Filipinos as “a friendly, forever-smiling and warm people” and she feels at home here. Culturally, she says, both our countries share the same temperament— we are both hospitable and cheerful, outdoorsy peoples, and we share a love for music and the arts, inspired perhaps by the beauty of our natural surroundings. Some of the world’s best music traces their roots to the African tribal beat. Our musicians, on the other hand, have earned worldwide acclaim. She further encouraged us to come and see the many attractions of South Africa so we can see how much more we have in common with them, such as beautiful destinations. Apart from the majestic Table Mountain, exotic wildlife and other many tourist attractions, South Africa continues to be well profiled in the Philippines long after its successful staging of the 2010 FIFA World Cup in Cape Town. The country recorded a remarkable fifteen percent increase in tourist arrivals. The goal is to increase the number of foreign tourist arrivals to 15 million by 2020, making South Africa one of the top ten global destinations. Football is South Africa’s national sport and transcends classes that it has unified the once strife-worn country. “Football, or soccer as we call it back home, is a poor man’s sport. In high-density areas where there is a great number of blacks, you can see it played in the streets and everywhere else. Sometimes they just roll and ball up the paper and, voila, there you have it,” the ambassador shares, smiling. Warming up in the interview, she recalls her growing up years in South Africa as the most inspiring part of her life. “I had a mother who was so convinced that her children would not live the life she had so there was no compromise when it comes to education. She always reminded us that we have to study ‘so you can take yourselves out of this poverty.’ Back then, students were segregated. If you’re black you go to a black school. If you’re white, you go to a white school. And it instilled in us, her children, a strong

will to make something of ourselves,” she recalls. The ambassador is a loving mother herself. She has a daughter who at present is pursuing a master’s degree at the University of Cape Town in South Africa. She shares one special memory in their lives when Nelson Mandela was visiting the United States. “I had just started my diplomatic career, and I was busy working. I found my daughter, who was around four years old, in the company of the famous Mandela and—you won’t believe this—she was telling him, of all things, that she was hungry and that her mom had forgotten to feed her,” the ambassador laughs heartily. She mentioned that “when you educate a woman, you educate a nation.” It reflects the vital role of women in any society. “Women are nurturers by nature, and it’s our natural instinct to share. We like to teach so we never hold information to ourselves. Growing up and seeing for myself how women were regarded as lesser beings, second class citizens, my belief is that South African women are the most empowered women although we don’t appreciate the fact that they are. Since the victory of democracy in our country, South African women have contributed so much to the progress of our country. Women now share equal representation in the South African legislature, where the ratio of men and women lawmakers is getting close to fifty-fifty. At the national level of government, women make up forty-one percent of the President Zuma’s cabinet. South Africa ranks third in the world (after Sweden and Rwanda) when it comes to female parliamentarians with forty-five percent of the National Assembly represented by women,” she shares. When asked what legacy she wants to leave behind as the first woman ambassador of South Africa to the Philippines, she has this to say: “I started off as an ambassador at a time when the South African government has put all the mechanisms in place. I would like to be known as an ambassador who advanced the work of my predecessors. It’s exciting and fun, and when I’m at work I feel energized.” That energy extends to the workplace and the people she comes in contact with daily. But it’s not all serious work. “Sometimes you need to sit back and enjoy and know when to laugh at yourself,” she chuckles. In her free time, she plans to go around the country and explore. She has been to Boracay and was amazed by its powdery white sand beaches. She admits she hardly has time to read books and takes her duties as a challenge. “I don’t see things as a difficulty or a problem because if you’re a curious person by nature, your instinct is to look for solutions.” The energetic and vibrant Agnes Nyamande-Pitso moves around in her office bedecked with South African tribal art, showing off some of them and explaining their origins. In her flowing, colorful dress, she is a true embodiment of everything South Africa, and she is proud to show it. Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

Being with

Bellarocca John A. Tanjangco, director of sales and marketing of Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa, shares his life and work, and details about the country’s most luxurious resort.

How long have you been in the hospitality and travel industry and was this really what you wanted to pursue since college?

I started in the travel industry back in 1994 when I joined El Nido Resorts as a sales account executive. My decision to join the company was based purely on my being newly certified as an open-water diver, and I thought it would be great to be able to dive in El Nido for free as an employee. I had no idea what sales was about back then because I took up interdisciplinary studies, majoring in psychology and literature at the Ateneo de Manila. I’ve been in the industry for about 17 years already, proving that what you pursue in college doesn’t always end up your career in the end.

We understand you have some family connection to our national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal. Is this true, and how are you related?

Yes, I am directly related to Rizal because my mother’s grandmother is the youngest sister of Rizal, Soledad. That makes our national hero my great granduncle, which is really close in terms of family ties. Though of course my mother never got to see Rizal, she was always reminding us of our connection to their family and how special we were for that. When I was in the USA and Canada, I was always given the title of Honorary Member of the Knights of Rizal and was elevated to the second degree KOR in Toronto. It was a fantastic opportunity for me to appreciate being a member of the Rizal clan, as I saw how all these people outside of the country still honor Rizal and how they value his contribution in our country’s history. The Knights 92

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of Rizal is the second largest organization in the country, next to the Boy Scouts of the Philippines.

Aside from El Nido Resorts, what other properties have you worked for in your 17 years as a hotelier?

After six years of service and reaching director of sales and marketing with El Nido Resorts, I left the company and shifted to government/public service by joining the Philippine Department of Tourism’s Overseas Offices Division. I was posted in New York City in 1999, and from selling only Palawan I found myself selling the entire Philippines to twenty of the fifty-one states of America. It was extremely challenging as the mainstream Americans are not really into the Philippines and knew nothing about the country. I was moved to two other offices in North America (Toronto and Chicago), reached the tourism attache position at the age of 34 and finally ended my nine year government stint in 2007 and went back to Manila. I was in retail for a year with Rustan’s and thought I had quit the travel industry for good until my former general manager in El Nido, Rudolf Studer, contacted me in 2008 and asked me to join the opening team of Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa.

We’ve read and heard so much about Bellarocca. Could you give a brief history ? Why did you choose Marinduque in the Philippines and not other areas? Why Mediterranean/Santorini inspired? Who is the architect?

Bellarocca was the product of one person’s dream to create a world-class, upscale resort/hideaway that would cater to Hollywood stars, European and Asian royalty and of course Manila’s high society crowd. The vision was driven by one element, luxury, and this is how the resort’s concept began. Why in the Philippines? The country is known globally for the Filipino’s exceptional service, innate gracious hospitality that is unmatched anywhere in the world. This, together with the unique resort and its facilities, all in a private island setting, assures one of a truly amazing and unforgettable holiday. Why Marinduque? Because the country is in dire need of new destinations to visit! Majority of the domestic and international tourists have been to the usual places such as Cebu, Boracay, Bohol, Palawan, Davao, Banaue. It offers something new, fresh and is intriguing to many and adds to the mystery/mystique of the resort and the destination, since they do not even know where Marinduque is located. The master plan, architecture and interior design of Bellarocca were all done by Alex Yatco of AY Design, a Filipino company. His design of the resort was specifically Mediterranean-inspired as the management applied the “think-out-of-the-box” attitude and thus created this one-of-a-kind resort to offer something different and fresh, that would be unique and stand out from all the other resorts in Asia. Having spent some time in Greece, the architect’s end result came out as a true reflection of the design and authentic feel of the area, and one that has even become more pronounced by the shape of the island itself. From the white stucco structures to the tiles in the steps and the mirrors in the bathrooms, it remains consistent with what you would find in the Greek destination.

How is Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa marketed? Who is your market? Is this a getaway for couples and individuals or is it packaged more for family vacations?

The resort is promoted and marketed by highlighting luxurious amenities, ultimate privacy and pampering as only the Filipinos can deliver in the most unique island resort setting in Asia. The resort style and setting break free from the usual thatchedroof, native designed resorts that can be found anywhere in Asia; travelers are in search of experiences that are different and one that will blow them away.

Of course, our current market is the local residents of the Philippines, being the most accessible and immediate target market to get bookings from. This includes the expats and the members of the diplomatic community. We also have the Korean honeymooners, some Asian arrivals from Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore and Thailand, plus, the US balikbayan market thanks to Facebook. We expect the Europeans to come sometime in October this year, when the winter season kicks in. It is packaged for couples as a romantic getaway primarily, but with the unique feature of nannies’ quarters with their own separate toilet and shower, coupled with our nanny meal rates, more and more families have been coming to the resort as well as big companies with a product to launch or employees to reward.

What does Bellarocca Island Resort and Spa provide that no other resort can? What can vacationers expect?

What we offer that you cannot find anywhere in any of the resorts would be the absolutely authentic and genuine feel of the Mediterranean islands, the structures and the setting, complemented by customized, personalized service delivered by the Filipino staff. At Bellarocca, we make it a point to do or deliver what it is that the guests want, whether it would be a specially cooked meal, a private romantic dinner at any designated area on the island, or set off the fireworks for a proposal for marriage from our previous guests. “No” is something you will not hear from our staff. What can vacationers expect at Bellarocca? Utmost privacy for all our guests, and be surrounded by sheer luxury and exclusivity. As one of our guests simply put it, “I now know how it feels to live like a rock star with the full VIP treatment we received!” The only ones on the island are either our staff or the guests. No one else. No one to approach you on the beach to sell you shells, massage services or sarongs and their local catch for the day. As one magazine put it, the only way to get to Bellarocca is either by reservation or invitation. Walk-ins are not advisable as well as requests to just have meals or use the facilities for the day. We respect the privacy of our paying guests, and this is one way for us deliver what we promise them when checked in at the resort. The same applies to the golf course and driving range. Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

TRAVEL DIRECTORY

DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM OFFICES National Capital Region Rm. 207, Department of Tourism Bldg., T.M. Kalaw St., Ermita, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 523-8411 to 20 Web site: www.wowphilippines.com.ph Ilocos Region (I) Oasis Country Resort Hotel National Highway, Sevilla, San Fernando, La Union Phone: (072) 888-2411/2098 Fax: 888-2098 Email: dotregion1@pldtdsl.net Laoag Sub-Office Room 207, Ilocano Heroes Memorial Hall, Laoag City Phone: (077) 722-1473 Fax: (077) 722-0467 Email: dotlaoag@digitelone.com Cordillera Administrative Region DOT Complex, Gov. Pack Road, Baguio City Phone: (074) 442-8848/7014 Fax: (074) 442-8848 Email: dotcar@pldtdsl.net Cagayan Valley Region (II) No. 29-A, Rizal St. Tuguegarao City, Cagayan Phone: (078) 844-1621, 846-2435 Fax: 846-2435 Email: dotr02@yahoo.com Web site: www.dotregion2.com.ph Central Luzon (III) Hilaga Village San Fernando City, Pampanga Phone: (045) 961-2665, 961-2612 Fax: 961-2612 Email: celtour@yahoo.com Southern Tagalog Regions (IV) Room 208, Department of Tourism Bldg., T.M. Kalaw St., Ermita, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 524-1969, 524-1528 and 526-7656 Fax: 526-7656 Email: lcjurilla@tourism.gov.ph Bicol Region (V) Regional Center Site Rawis, Legaspi City, Albay Phone: (052) 482-0712, 820-3664 Fax: 482-0715 Email: dotr5@globalink.net.ph Web site: www.wowbicol.com Western Visayas (VI) Western Visayas Tourism Center Capitol Ground, Bonifacio Drive, Iloilo City Phone: (033) 337-5411, 509-3550 Fax: 335-0245 Mobile: 0917-722-6691 Email: deptour6@mozcom.com

Web site: www.corporate.mozcom.com/dot, www.westernvisayastourism.com.ph Boracay Field Office Balabag, Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan Phone: (036) 288-3689 Web site: www.boracay.com Central Visayas (VII) Ground floor, LDM Bldg., Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu City Tel. (032) 254-2811, 254-6077 and 254-6650 Email: dotregion7@gmail.com, dotcebu@gmail.com Eastern Visayas (VIII) Ground floor, Foundation Plaza Bldg., Leyte Park Resort Compound, Magsaysay Blvd., Tacloban City Phone: (053) 321-2048, 321-4333 Fax: 325-5279 Email: dotreg8@yahoo.com Web site: www.visiteasternvisayas.ph Zamboanga Peninsula (IX) Lantaka Hotel by the Sea Valderosa St., Zamboanga City Tel. (062) 991-0218 Fax: 993-0030 Email: dotr9@yahoo.com Northern Mindanao (X) Gregorio Pelaez Sports Center, A.Velez St., Cagayan de Oro City Phone: (08822) 726-394, 723-696, 856-4048 and 858-8866 Fax: 723-696 Email: dotr10@yahoo.com Davao Region (XI) Rm. 512, Landco Corporate Center Bldg., J.P. Laurel Avenue, Davao City Phone: (082) 221-6955, 487-0659 Fax: 221-0070 / 225-1940 Email: dotr11@yahoo.com Web site: www.discoverdavao.com

EMBASSIES and CONSULATES Australia Level 23-Tower 2, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala Avenue, Makati City 1200 Phone: (+63) 2 757 8100 Fax: (+63) 2 7578 268 Web site: www.philippines.embassy. gov.au Email: manila.consular@dfat.gov.au Belgium 9th floor, Multinational Bancorporation Centre, 6805 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: + (63) 2 845-1869 Fax: + (63) 2 845-2076 Web site: www.diplomatie.be/manila Email: manila@diplobel.org Brazil 16th floor, Liberty Center, 104 H.V. dela Costa St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 845-3651 to 53 Fax: (+63) 2 845-3676 Web site: http://manila.itamaraty.gov.h Email: brasemb@info.com.ph Brunei Darussalam 11th Floor BPI Building, Ayala Avenue cor. Paseo De Roxas, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 816-2836, 891-6646 Fax: (+63) 2 816-2876 Cambodia Unit 7A-B, Country Space 1 Building, Sen. Gil Puyat Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63-2) 818-9981, 810-1896 Fax: (+63-2) 818-9983 Web site: nfaic.gov.kh Email: cam.emb.ma@netasia.net Canada Level 6, 7 and 8, Tower II, RCBC Plaza, 6819 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 857-9000 Fax: (+63) 2 843-1082 Web site: www.manila.gc.ca

Soccsksargen (XII) Second floor, COMSE Bldg., Quezon Ave., Cotabato City Phone: (064) 421-1110 Fax: 421-7868 Email: dot12@greendot.com.ph

China 4896 Pasay Road., Dasmarinas Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 844-3148, 843-7715 Fax: (+63) 2 845-2465, 843-9974 Email: chinaemb_ph@mfa.gov.cn

Koronadal Sub-Office Ground floor, Marvella Plaza Hotel, Gen Paulino Santos Drive, Koronadal City Phone: (083) 228-8667

Denmark 51st floor, PBCOM Tower, 6795 Ayala Avenue, Makati City, Manila, Philippines Phone: (+63) 2 815-8015 Fax: (+63) 2 815-8017 Email: mnlconsul@maersk.com

Caraga Region (XIII) Ground floor, Grateful Realty Corp. Bldg., 88 Pili Drive, Butuan City Phone: (085) 341-8413 Fax: 815-6040 Email: dotr13@yahoo.com Web site: www.dotcaraga.ph

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

Egypt 7th floor, GC Corporate Plaza 150 Legaspi St. Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 843-9220 Fax : (+63) 2 843-9239

Finland 21st Floor BPI Buendia Center, Sen. Gil J. Puyat Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 891-5011 to 15 Fax: (+63) 2 891-4107 Web site: www.finland.ph Email: sanomat.mni@formin.fi France 16th floor, The Pacific Star Bldg., Makati Ave. cor. Sen. Gil Puyat Ext., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 810-1981/8 Fax: (+63) 2 813-1908 Germany 25/F Tower 2, RCBC Plaza 6819 Ayala Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-4906 Fax: (+63) 2 810-4703 Web site: www.manila.diplo.de Email: germanembassymanila@surfshop.net.ph India 2190 Paraiso St. Dasmarinas Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 815-8151 Fax: (+63) 2 815-8151 Web site: www.embindia.org.ph Email: amb@embindia.org.ph Indonesia 185 Salcedo St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-5061/68 Fax: (+63) 2 892-5878, 818-4441 Web site: www.kbrimanila.org.ph Email: fungsipensosbud@yahoo.com.ph Ireland 3rd floor, Max’s Bldg., 70 Jupiter St., Bel-Air, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 896-4668 Fax: (+63) 2 897-8534 Email: irishcon@pldtdsl.net Israel 23rd floor, Trafalgar Plaza, H.V. dela Costa St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-5330 Fax: (+63) 2 894-1027 Web site: www.manila.mfa.gov.il Email: info@manila.mfa.gov.il Italy 6th floor, Zeta Bldg. 191 Salcedo St. Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-4531/2/3 Fax: (+63) 2 817-1436 Email: informazioni.manila@esteri.it Japan 2627 Roxas Blvd., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 551-5710 Fax: (+63) 2 551-5785, 551-5780 Web site: www.ph.emb-japan.go.jp Email: jicc-mnl@embjapan.ph Korea 10th floor, The Pacific Star Bldg., Makati Ave. Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 811-6139 to 44 Fax: (+63) 2 811-6148

TRAVEL DIRECTORY Malaysia 29th and 30th flr., The World Center Bldg. 330 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave. Makati City Phone: (+63)2 864-0761 to 68 Fax: (+63)2 864-0727 Email: malmanila@kln.gov.my Mexico 2nd floor, GC Corporate Plaza 150 Legaspi St. Legaspi Vill., Makati City Phone: (+63)2 812-2211, 812-2212 Fax: (+63)2 892-7635 Web site: www.sre.gob.mx/filipinas Email: ebmexfil@info.com.ph Netherlands 26th Floor Equitable PCI Bank Tower, 8751 Paseo de Roxas, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 786-6666 Fax: (+63 2) 786-6600 Web site: www.netherlandsembassy.ph Email: man@minbuza.nl New Zealand 23rd Floor, BPI Center Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63)2 891-5358 to 67, 891-3272 to 75 Fax: (+63)2 891-5357, 891-5356 Web site: www.nzembassy.com/philippines Email: nzemmanila@globelines.com.ph Norway 21st floor, Petron Mega Plaza Bldg., 358 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 886-3245 to 49 Fax: (+63) 2 886-3244, 886.3384 Web site: www.norway.ph Email: emb.manila@msa.no Pakistan 6th Floor, Alexander House 132 Amorsolo St., Legaspi Village Makati City Phone: (+63)2 817-2772/6 Fax: (+63)2 840-0229 Email: pakrepmanila@yahoo.com Web site: www.ctstech.org/pkembphil/ cservicesmain.htm Russia 1245 Acacia Road., Dasmarinas Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 893-0190 Fax: (+63) 2 810-9614 Web site: www.rusmanila.mid.ru Email: RusEmb@i-manila.com.ph Saudi Arabia 389 Gen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 890-9735 Fax: (+63) 2 895-3493 Singapore 505 Rizal Drive,1634 Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City. Phone: (+63) 2 856-9922 Fax: (+63) 2 856-9932 Spain 5th floor, ACT Tower, 135 Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City

Phone: (+63) 2 818-5526 Fax: (+63) 2 810-2885 Emails: emb.manila@maec.es and con.manila@maec.es Sweden 16th floor, Equitable PCI Bank Tower II Bldg., Makati Ave. cor. Dela Costa Sts., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 811-7900 Fax: (+63) 2 815-3002 Web site: www.swedenabroad.com/manila Email: ambassaden.manila@foreign.ministry.se Switzerland 24th floor, Equitable Bank Tower, 8751 Paseo de Roxas, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 757-9000 Fax: (+63) 2 757-3718 Web site: www.eda.admin.ch/manila Email: vertretung@man.rep.admin.ch Taiwan 41F, Tower 1, RCBC Plaza 6819 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63)2 887-6688 Fax: (+63)2 887-7679, 887-4661 Web site: www.taiwanoffice.org/embassy.ph Email: phl@mofa.gov.tw Thailand 107 Rada St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63)2 815-4219/20 Fax: (+63)2 815-4221 Web site: www.thaiembassymnl.com Email: infomnl@pldtdsl.net Turkey 2268 Paraiso St. Dasmariñas Village, Makati City Phone: (+63)2 843-9705, 943-9707 Fax: (+63)2 843-9702 Email: embassy.manila@msa.gov.tk United Arab Emirates 2nd floor, Renaissance Bldg., 215 Salcedo St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 817-3906 Fax: (+63) 2 818-3577 United Kingdom 15th to17th floors, L.V. Locsin Bldg., 6752 Ayala Ave. cor. Makati Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 580-8700 Fax: (+63) 2 819-7206 Web site: www.britishembassy.gov. uk/philippines Email: uk@info.com.ph

LOCAL AIRLINES AirPhil Express R-1 Hangar, APC Gate1, Andrews Avenue, Nichols Tel. 851-7601 Ground Floor, Charterhouse, 114 Legaspi St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-1459/2071; 24-Hour reservations number: 855-9000 Cebu Pacific Airlines Airline Operations Center Domestic Airport, Pasay City, Phone : (+63) 2 702-0888 (reservations), (+63) 2 290-5271 to 72 (customer service), (+63) 2 852-2328 local 263 (accounting), (+63) 2 290-5321 to 22 (cargo), (+63) 2 290-5241 to 42 (group desk) Email: customerservice@cebupacificair. com (customer service) cebrefacctg@cebupacificair.com (accounting) Web site: www.cebupacificair.com Island Aviation, Inc. A. Soriano Hangar, Andrews Avenue, Pasay City, Metro Manila, Philippines Phone: (63) 2 833-3855 Island Transvoyager, Inc. A Soriano Hangar, Lima Road cor Andrews Ave., Domestic Airport, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 821-5674, 851-5667 and 854-5674 Inter Island Airlines 74 Roxas Blvd., Paranaque City Phone: (+63) 2 852-8003 Philippine Airlines 2nd Floor, Power Realty Bldg., 1012 Arnaiz Ave., Makati City. Phone: (+63) 2 892-7339, 815-6481 South East Asian Airlines Domestic Passenger Terminal 1, Manila Domestic Airport, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 849-0100 ZestAir Domestic Road cor. Andrews Ave., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 855-3333 FOREIGN AIRLINES

United States of America 1201 Roxas Blvd., Manila Phone: (+63) 2 528-6300 Fax: (+63) 2 522-4361 Web site: www.manila.usembassy.gov

Air India Phil Am Life Salcedo Building, 126 L.P. Leviste St., SalcedoVillage, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 815-2441/1280

Vietnam 670 Pablo Ocampo, Malate, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 525-2837, 521-6843 Fax: (+63) 2 526-0472 Web site: www.vietnamembassyphilippines.org Email: vnem@yahoo.com

Air New Zealand 10th Floor, Rufino Pacific Tower, Ayala Ave., Makati City. Phone: (+63) 2 884-8097 American Airlines Ground Flr., Olympia Somerset Condominium,

Makati Avenue cor Sto. Tomas St., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 817-8645, 810-3229 Asiana Airlines 6th Floor, Salcedo Tower, Dela Costa Street, Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-5681 to 88 British Airways 4th Floor, Filipino Bldg., Dela Rosa Street cor. Legaspi Street, Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 817-0361, 815-6560 Cathay Pacific Airways Limited Room 446, 4th Floor, IPT Bldg., NAIA Terminal 1, Ninoy Aquino Ave., Paranaque City Phone: (+63) 2 832-2979 China Airlines Ground Floor Golden Empire tower 1322 Roxas Blvd. cor. Padre Faura St., Ermita Manila Phone: (+63) 2 523-6319, 524-4950/4331 Emirates Pacific Star Building, Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 858-5350, 858-5300 Eva Airways 5438 Don Tim Building, South Superhighway, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 889-5701 to 04 Finnair 10th Floor, Rufino Pacific Tower Ayala Ave,. Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 856-1427 Gulf Air 9th Floor, Ayala Life FGU Center 6811 Ayala Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 892-1313 Japan Airlines 2nd floor, Oledan Square, 6788 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 886-6877 to 78 KLM Royal Dutch Airlines 8th floor, Athenaeum Building, 160 LP Leviste St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 848-5817, 815-4790 Korean Air Ground floor, LPL Plaza Bldg., 124 LP Leviste St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 815-9262, 815-9264 Laoag International Airlines Terminal 1, Manila Domestic Airport, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 551-9729, 551-4813

Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011 EXPERIENCE Travel and Living |

TRAVEL DIRECTORY Lufthansa German Airlines Legaspi Parkview Condominiums, 134 Legaspi cor. Palanca Sts., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 810-5033 Malaysia Airlines 23rd Floor, LKG Tower Bldg., 6801 Ayala Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 887-3215 Northwest Airlines 8th floor, Athenaeum Building, 160 LP Leviste St., Salcedo Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 819-7261 Qatar Airways Ground floor, 132-A The Colonnade Residences, Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 812-1888 Qantas Airways Limited 4th floor, Filipino Merchants Building, 135 Legaspi corner Dela Rosa Sts., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 812-4738 Royal Brunei Airlines G/F SGV II Blg., 6758 Ayala Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 897-3309, 895-3545 Singapore Airlines 33rd floor, LKG Tower, 6801 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 756-8899, 756-8888 South African Airways 10th Floor, Rufino Pacific Tower Ayala Ave,. Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 884-8129 Thai Airways International Country Space 1 Building, Sen. Gil Puyat Ave., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 812-4812 Tiger Airways 1000 Makati Ave. cor Arnaiz Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 884-1524 United Airlines 10th Floor, Rufino Pacific Tower Ayala Ave,. Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 884-8272 CAR RENTAL AND TAXI SERVICE Alamo Rent-A-Car 211 Quirino Avenue, Tambo, Parañaque City Phone: (+63) 2 551-4923/07 Avcar Rental Corp. 3674 Bautista cor Dayap Sts., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 687-2212

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Avis Philippines Manila Peninsula Hotel Shop #1, Ayala Wing Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 845-1844, 843-7140 Web site: www.avis.com.ph Budget Rent-A-Car The Peninsula Hotel Manila Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 818-7363, 816-2211/6682 Carlines Rent-A-Car Services Tuscany Condominium, 6751 Ayala Avenue, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 810-5421, 813-1975 to 76 Del’s Transport Services 1042 Vito Cruz St., Singalong, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 524-5187, 525-8396/2696 Executive Transport and Cars Casa Blanca, 1447 M. Adriatico St., Ermita, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 523-5595 Filcar Transport Services 2nd Floor, Unit 2-A, Torre De Salcedo Bldg., 184 Salcedo St., Legaspi Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 894-1754, 817-8346 and 843-3530 Telefax: (+63) 2 893-1251 Web site: www.filcartransport.com Email: info@filcartransport.com Gemini Transport Services 43 B. Francisco St., New Saniega Phone: (+63) 2 811-6888 Grayline Philippines 7737-C, St. Paul Road, San Antonio Village, Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 890-3963 to 64 Hertz Rent-A-Car Unit 101, Sunset Tower, Makati Ave. cor. Durban St., Makati City Phone: (+63) 2 897-5161 NAIA Airport Terminal 1 Branch, Phone: (+63) 2 877-1406 Mobeline Charter Services 2449 Sequia St., Sta.Ana, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 890-2778 Nissan Rent-A-Car 2317 Aurora Blvd., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 854-7099 Fax: (+63) 2 852-6599 Web site: www.nissanrentacar.com Email: lgq-sales@nissanrentacar.com Orix Auto Leasing Phil. Corp. 148 Yakal St., San Antonio Village, Makati City. Phone: (+63) 2 893-2523 to 27, 893-3233 and 893-2020 (24 hrs.)

EXPERIENCE Travel and Living Volume 7 • Number 4 • 2011

Sandeco Rent-A-Car 5446-48 South Superhighway Phone: (+63) 2 844-7954/7960/ 4478 to 79 Sunflower Transport Services 7 Santa Teresita St., Kapitolyo, Pasig City Phone: (+63) 2 631-3496 Tigers on the Run 3rd Floor, Sen. Gil Puyat Avenue, Mkti. City Phone: (+63) 2 899-98-28/08 BUS COMPANIES Aladdin Transit Cayco St., Sampaloc, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 781-9168 BLTB 2nd Avenue, Caloocan City Phone: (+63) 2 363-4478, 365-7886 Baliwag Transit 2nd Avenue cor. Rizal Avenue, Caloocan City Phone: (+63) 2 364-7002, 364-0860, 364-0778 and 363-4331 Dagupan Bus Line New York St. cor. Edsa, Cubao, Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 727-2330 or 2287 Executive Carriers and Services, Inc. 153 Quirino Ave., Baclaran, Parañaque City Phone: (+63) 2 851-8701, 912-4289 Fariñas Transit Fariñas Building 1238 Lacson St. Sampaloc, Manila 743-8580 to 84 / 734-5311 / 7499645 09173279665 Fariñas Terminal Brgy. 8 Fariñas St. Laoag City, Ilocos Norte (077) 7721177 / 09173279526 Five Star Bus Company 2220 Aurora Blvd., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 853-4772 Genesis Transport Services Inc. 101-A Giselle Park Plaza, Edsa Rotonda cor. H. Taft Avenue, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 733- 8622 704 Edsa cor. New York St., Cubao, Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 709-0803, 421-1413 JAC Liner #2 Mapagmahal St. Brgy. Pinyahan, Kamias Road, Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 927-4745/6139, 928-6140

Jam Transit Timog St. corner Edsa Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 724-4897 Partas Transportation Co., Inc. 816 Aurora Blvd., Quezon City Phone: (+63) 2 725-1740, 725-1756, 826-1285 and 724-9820 Philippine Rabbit Oroquieta St., Sta.Cruz, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 734-9836 Philtranco Edsa, Apelo Cruz St., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 851-8077 to 79 (Pasay) and 722-7567 (Cubao) RRCG Transport Km. 18, Ortigas Avenue Extension, Cainta, Rizal Phone: (+63) 2 656-7503 Saulog Transit 1377 Quirino Avenue, Paranaque City Phone: (+63) 2 825-2926 to 30 Tritran CMC Building, Andrews Avenue corner Aurora Blvd., Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 851-7971 Victory Liner 713 Rizal Ave. Ext., Caloocan City Phone: (+63) 2 361-1506 651 EDSA, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 833-5019 to 20 551 Earnshow St. brgy 401 Sampaloc, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 559-7753 Edsa near Aurora Blvd., Cubao Phone: (+63) 2 727-4688, 727-4534 SHIPS and FERRIES WG & A (Superferry) 12th floor, Times Plaza Building, UN Ave. cor. Taft Ave., Ermita, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 528-7979, 528-7171 Web site: www.SuperFerry.com.ph Email: customerinteraction@SuperFerry.com.ph Mt. Samat Ferry Express CCP Bay Terminal, CCP Complex, Pasay City Phone: (+63) 2 551-5290 to 91 Negros Navigation Pier II, North Harbor, Tondo, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 243-5231, 244-0408 Web site: www.negrosnavigation.ph Email: gcabalo@negrosnavigation.ph Sulpicio Lines Manila Terminal Office Pier 12, North Harbor Tondo, Manila Phone: (+63) 2 245-0616 to 30 Fax: (+63) 2 243-4570, 243-4571 Web site: www.sulpiciolines.com

TRAVEL CALENDAR

STO. NIÑO FESTIVAL January | Nationwide There is a grand procession of well-dressed images of the Child Jesus.

sweet delicacy) in Western Visayas and the reenactment of the Barter of Panay.

BULAKLAKAN FESTIVAL Jan. 1 | Muntinlupa City This includes a parade of flowers and costumes. ATI-ATIHAN FESTIVAL Jan. 1-21 | Kalibo, Aklan Celebrated in honor of Santo Niño, it is socalled because locals and tourists wipe soot on their faces, don ethnic costumes, parade around town as Negritos and dance in the streets to the beat of ambulant ethnic troubadours. This is a weeklong celebration which culminates on the third Sunday of January. AGUMAN SANDUK Jan. 1 | Minalin, Pampanga While the rest of the country takes a break from the New Year revelry, boys and men of this sleepy fishing town wear their mothers’ lipstick and put on their wives’ dresses. The Aguman Sanduk or Fellowship of the Ladle of Minalin is celebrated in the afternoon at 2, starting at the Santo Domingo Church. The strange and largely secret tradition began in 1934. Even mayors and priests are said to have also joined hundreds of men who parade annually on the street in dress. At the end of the day, they choose the Aguman queen, who is usually the ugliest of the cross-dressers. FEAST OF THE THREE KINGS Jan. 2 | Gasan, Marinduque This feast honors the three kings, and participants visit houses around the poblacion of Gasan. BAILES DE LUCES Jan. 5 | La Castellana, Negros Occicental A celebration of charter day, it is also a thanksgiving for all the blessings received in the year. It paves for a prosperous new year with lights, nocturnal festivities and street dancing. KURALDAL Jan. 6 | Sasmuan, Pampanga Pampangans from neighboring towns gather in front of the chapel of St. Lucy and dance for favors all night. As soon as the mass ends at 8 P.M., the rowdy entry of the brass band signals the start of non-stop dancing that lasts until 3 A.M. Barren women are said to get pregnant after the festival. KADAYAW FESTIVAL Jan. 7 | Pambujan, Northern Samar The festival is a thanksgiving for the blessings received. BANDI FESTIVAL and BAYLUHAY FESTIVAL Jan. 8-15 | San Joaquin, Iloilo The festivals feature the biggest bandi (a

January - February

ESCALANTE PEOPLE’S DAY Jan. 8 | Escalante City, Negros Occidental This event commemorates the signing of R.A. 9014 into law declaring Escalante as one of the component cities of Negros Occidental. BINANOG FESTIVAL Jan. 8 | Lambunao, Iloilo It is celebrated in honor of the infant Jesus. Binanog means a “pool of dance” by the people in the hinterland of Lambunao. LINGAYEN GULF LANDING ANNIVERSARY Jan. 9 | Lingayen, Pangasinan It commemorates the liberation of Pangasinan from the Japanese led by Gen. Douglas McArthur. FEAST OF THE BLACK NAZARENE Jan. 9 | Quiapo, Manila The populous district of Manila celebrates the feast day of the Black Nazarene, when a life-size image of a dark-skinned Jesus Christ carrying the cross is brought out for a procession. Devotees, from all over the metropolis and beyond, join in the procession, trying to touch the image, which is said to have miraculous powers. This is one of the most intense shows of devotion. BINIRAY FESTIVAL Jan. 9 | Romblon In honor of the Santo Niño, it has revelry and a fluvial procession. SAN PABLO COCO FESTIVAL Jan. 10-15 | San Pablo City, Laguna The weeklong celebration is highlighted by a Mardi Gras during fiesta with costumes and floats made from coconut. ARAW NG KORONADAL (HINUGYAW FESTIVAL) Jan. 10 | Koronadal It is a celebration of the different cultures in Koronadal. SINULOG (KABANKALAN) FESTIVAL Jan. 10-16 | Kabankalan City, Negros Occidental Revelers in colorful costumes and bodies painted in soot take to the streets to the frenzied beating of drums, celebrating the feast of Santo Niño. SINULOG FESTIVAL Jan. 2-31 | Cebu This is one of biggest and most popular festivals of Cebu, considered to be the country’s cradle of Christianity, and of the Philippines. The main festival is on the third Sunday of January in Cebu City to honor the Santo Niño. It is essentially a dance ritual which remembers the Filipino people’s pagan past and their

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acceptance of Christianity. Recently, the cultural event has been commercialized as a tourist attraction and instead of traditional street-dancing from locals, Sinulog also came to mean a contest featuring contingents from various parts of the country. Sinulog simply means “graceful dance.” BAKA FESTIVAL Jan. 12-15 | San Pablo, Isabela Assisted by the Isabela State University, Echague campus, the festival promotes the town of San Pablo as home to 20 cattle ranches. There are street dancing, rodeo, carambola and cattle wrestling. MALATARLAK FESTIVAL Jan. 13-20 | Tarlac City, Tarlac The festival features various contingents of school children garbed in grass-inspired costumes, painted in soot, all dancing to the beat of local tunes and ethnic instruments made of bamboo. It derives its name from a Negrito word for a grass that grows abundantly in the area. KINARADTO FESTIVAL Jan. 15 | Buenavista, Guimaras This festival has presentation of songs, dances and musical tableau depicting the various influences Buenavista has been subjected to. It is celebrated in honor of the town’s patron Sto. Niño. MAKATO STO. NIÑO FESTIVAL Jan. 15 | Poblacion Makato, Aklan The ati-atihan festival of Makato dates back before the Spaniards. PASUNGAY FESTIVAL Jan. 15 | San Joaquin, Iloilo This has its origin on a hillside in one of the inland barangays of the municipality when resting farmers witness for the first time the fight between the two raging bulls, set loose by their herdsmen. It caught the fancy of the barangay folks and soon it became a popular entertainment in most barangay fiestas. During the municipal fiesta, the best bulls from different barangays are pitted against each other. BATAN ATI-ATI MALAKARA FESTIVAL Jan. 15 | Poblacion Batan, Aklan The participants celebrating this festival wear masks made up of papier mache and costumes. The festival is celebrated in honor of the Sto. Niño with merry making for a bountiful harvest, peace and prosperity, with street dancing. IBAJAY ATI-ATI MUNICIPAL AND DEVOTIONAL FIESTA Jan. 16- 22 | Ibajay, Aklan A religious feast in honor of its patron saint Sto. Niño, it is held by transferring the holy image of the patron from Ibajay Cathedral Rectory and enthronement at St. Peter Parish Church.

KAHIMUNAN FESTIVAL Jan. 16 | Libertad, Butuan City This is Butuan’s version of the Sinulog of Cebu, which has an equally lively and spectacular street dancing. PANGISDAAN FESTIVAL Jan. 16 | Barangay of Tangos, Navotas One of the highlights of the Navotas Day celebration is the street dancing and float competition focusing on the fishing industry. BANSUDANI FESTIVAL/ FEAST OF THE DIVINE SAVIOR Jan. 17 | Bansud, Mindoro Oriental This is a thanksgiving for a bountiful harvest which coincides with town fiesta. It features dances and cultural presentations by schools and barangays. SADSAD SA KALYE Jan. 19 | Janiuay, Iloilo It is has street dancing. Sadsad means “dance.” PANDOT SA BACOLOD Jan. 20 | Bacolod City, Negros Occidental It features dramatization of the life of Bacoleños during the Spanish times and the life of being a Catholic. BINULIGAY FESTIVAL Jan. 20 | Jamindan, Capiz This is a cultural and fiesta celebration. PASASALAMAT FESTIVAL Third Sunday of January | Pagadian City The festival features ethnic street dancing with Subanen rituals of thanksgiving for good harvest. ALTAVAS STO. NIÑO FESTIVAL Jan. 21-22 | Poblacion Altavas, Aklan January 22 marks the end of the Fil-American war in Altavas, which is being celebrated as an annual thanksgiving and Armistice Day in Altavas. Later, the date was adopted as its municipal town fiesta. HALAD SA STO. NIÑO FESTIVAL Jan. 21 | Midsayap, North Cotabato This is the fiesta celebration of Midsayap, Cotabato, in honor of its patron, Sto. Niño. Highlights are street dancing and theatrical parade contest. HUGYAW FESTIVAL Jan. 22 | New Lucena, Iloilo It features a street dancing competition. PANUBASON FESTIVAL Jan. 22- 25 | Valderrama, Antique A festival created to discover and develop special talents from aspirants in the field of music, dances and sports, it is also a thanksgiving festival featuring a Mardi Gras competition.

LONGANIZA FESTIVAL Jan. 22 | Vigan City, It features the longaniza sausage. GUIGUINTO GARDEN FESTIVAL Jan. 22-23 | Guiguinto, Bulacan Fourteen barangays prepare their respective floats together with the non-governmental organization and civil groups showcasing the diverse landscaping designs of local gardeners. FEAST OF OUR LADY OF PEACE AND GOOD VOYAGE Jan. 24 | La Carlota City It features cultural shows and traditional fiesta activities like procession, traditional games and cultural presentation. FEAST OF INA POON BATO Jan. 24 | Botolan, Zambales It is celebrated in the barangay of Poonbato, Botolan, Zambales. Devotees from all over the country flocked to this place before or on the feast day to worship Ina Poonbato. The church is on the top of the hill. Ina Poonbato, the miraculous image will continue to reign in the hearts of many people, most especially to the people of Botolan. For them, she is their mother, their guidance and their hope. PAINDIGAY FESTIVAL Jan. 24 | Padada, Davao del Sur Paindigay is a Cebuano word for “showcase display,” which is also called pahambogay. There are a basketball league, cockfighting derby and cultural presentation. DINAGSA ATI-ATIHAN FESTIVAL Jan. 24-30 | Cadiz City, Negros Occidental Various programs are lined up such as motocross, drum and bugle corps competition, Ginoong Cadiz and search for Mutya ng Cadiz. This spectacular revelry features Ati tribes garbed in their colorful costumes dancing to the fast and deafening beat of drums while carrying the image of the Holy Child Jesus. STO. NIÑO FESTIVAL Jan. 25 | Malolos, Bulacan This is the biggest expression of devotion to the Holy Child Jesus in the entire Luzon Island. SAUG FESTIVAL Jan. 25 | Lemery, Iloilo The festival features eight districts portraying different situations or scenes on the real purpose of saug. Saug is a local term, which means to “transfer wood/other farm products from one place to another by means of karosa.” LUBAY-LUBAY FESTIVAL Jan. 25 | Cauayan, Negros Occidental It portrays and preserves the early culture of Cauayanons.

PANSI FESTIVAL Jan. 25 | Cabagan, Isabela The festival highlights the original pancit Cabagan, a local noodle dish, acknowledging the town as its source. Although the festival is not conducted yearly, pancit Cabagan is known all over the region, and the dried noodles can be bought daily at the local market DINAGYANG FESTIVAL Jan. 20-22 | Iloilo City Just like most festivals in January, Dinagyang Festival is a thanksgiving for and a celebration in honor of Santo Nino. From a parish church festivity, the celebration has evolved to become a religious-cultural activity. It is now a vehicle to promote Iloilo as a tourist and investment destination. It prides itself as a festival of folk choreography and a showcase of Ilonggo heritage and culture. The religious highlight is the fluvial procession along Iloilo River. The cultural highlights are the Kasadyahan cultural parade and the Ati-atihan parades and competitions. HANDURAWAN FESTIVAL Jan. 27- 28 | Laua-an, Antique It is the foundation day celebration of the municipality with various programs. SANA-AW FESTIVAL Jan. 27 | Jordan, Guimaras Primarily a celebration of the economic endeavor that made Jordan what it is today, Sana-aw also pays tribute to the skillful artisans and workers in an endearing characterization through dance drama. PINILISA FESTIVAL Jan. 28-30 | Jones, Isabela The festival highlights a rare, upland variety of rice being produced by the town. It features agri-industrial trade fair, booth competition, street dancing showdown and sports competition. FEAST OF ST. BLAISE Jan. 31- Feb. 3 | Sebaste, Antique This is an annual pilgrimage festival both celebrated by the religious community and the municipal government unit in honor of St. Blaise. Every year, thousands of pilgrims province-wide and even from other regions travel to Sebaste to seek homage and intercession to the patron saint of Sebaste. BALOT SA PUTI FESTIVAL Jan. 31 | Pateros It is one of the highlights of the Pateros town fiesta celebration. PABIRIK FESTIVAL Feb. 1- 2 | Paracale, Camarines Norte Held in the town of Paracale, the festival is highlighted by “pabirik” street dancing, depicting the gold mining industry in the province.

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TRAVEL CALENDAR

LAVANDERO FESTIVAL Feb. 1- 6 | Mandaluyong City As part of the week-long Mandaluyong Day celebration, the unique festival focused on the city’s old tradition of washing clothes in the once clean and clear waters of the Pasig River. Amusingly, the focal point of the festival is the male participants washing clothes instead of women.

Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage, for a bountiful life.

IBON-EBON FESTIVAL First week of February | Candaba, Pampanga One of the more colorful events in Pampanga, the Ibon Ebon Festival (literally, “birdegg”), initiated by mayor Jerry Pelayo, projects Candaba as the home of thousands of migratory birds from different parts of the globe, and at the same time showcases its growing duck egg industry. Among the activities featured during the two-day event are street-dance performances, exhibits and trade fair, bird-inspired kite flying exhibition, itik race and boat race along Pampanga river. BULANG-BULANG FESTIVAL Feb. 2-9 | San Enrique, Negros Occidental This festival gives recognition to the sport fowl industry which is one of the major sources of livelihood of the town. Bulang-Bulang is a dance presentation, which depicts the life and character of the fighting cock. FEAST OF OUR LADY OF CANDLES Feb. 2 | Jaro, Iloilo City This is the biggest and most opulent religious pageantry in Western Visayas with the blessing of candles and a procession of the Nuestra Señora de Candelaria and the Fiesta Queen and her court. SALAKAYAN FESTIVAL Feb. 2-5 | Miag-ao, Iloilo An important historical occasion for the people of Miag-ao, this annual extravaganza attracts people with its week-long activity of food fair, agro-industrial and trade fair, fluvial parade, higante contest, literary musical contest, evening socials and the hablon and patadyong fashion show. The event’s highlight is the street dance-drama depicting the victorious battle waged by the locals against Muslim marauders sometime in 1754. PAMULINAWEN FESTIVAL Feb. 2-10 | Laoag City, Ilocos Norte The word means “Ilocano maiden.” It is a festival showing Ilocano customs and virtues. INTERNATIONAL BAMBOO ORGAN FESTIVAL Feb. 3-11 | Las Piñas There is a series of cultural events, with a focus on the unique bamboo organ made by Fray Diego de la Cera found only in Las Piñas. TINAPAY FESTIVAL Feb. 7-13 | Cuenca, Batangas This is an annual activity conceived by the town as thanksgiving to their patron saint,

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KALI-KALIHAN HARVEST FESTIVAL Feb. 8 | Don Salvador Benedicto, Negros Occidental This is a harvest festival with street dancing showing cultural heritage and the art of kali, also known as arnis or escrima, the traditional martial arts of the Filipino people since the seventh century. PHILIPPINE INTERNATIONAL HOT-AIR BALLOON FIESTA Feb. 9-12 | Clark Field, Pampanga This annual festival features air sports events like hot-air balloon competition, aircraft maneuvers and precision flying, ultralights, RC demonstration flying, sky diving, aircraft rally, rocketeering, flag jump, balloon bursting competition, kite flying, trade fair, carnival rides and nightly concerts. FEAST OF NUESTRA SEÑORA DE CANDELARIA Feb. 9 | San Enrique, Negros Occidental The annual town fiesta is celebrated in honor of the patron saint of the town, Nuestra Señora de Candelaria. CHARTER ANNIVERSARY Feb. 9-11 | Talisay City, Negros Occidental A celebration of Talisay City for its conversion from a municipality into a component city, it features agro-industrial fair, multi-sectoral parade, cultural contest, city employees night and recognition of outstanding Taliseño in different fields of endeavor in the evening of the charter anniversary. GULING-GULING FESTIVAL Feb. 9 | Paoay, Ilocos Norte Townsfolk and their guests participate in singing and dancing in the street, dressed in their native costume, the antique and attractive abel Paoay kimona with matching tapis or pandiling, adorned with century-old jewelry. FEAST OF OUR LADY OF LOURDES Feb. 10 | Pulupandan, Negros Occidental It features Laro ng Lahi, indigenous games for all ages. TINAGBA FESTIVAL Feb. 11 | Iriga City, Camarines Sur A tradition of the first harvest offering coinciding with the feast day of Our Lady of Lourdes, it is derived from the early rituals of the ancient Bicolanos offering their harvest to their own gods as a form of thanksgiving and to seek favor for a more bountiful harvest throughout the year. HARANA FESTIVAL Feb. 11-15 | San Jose, Camarines Sur The festival features local talents and young artists in its efforts to promote cultural awareness, tourism development and youth empowerment in the district of Partido

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PABALHAS SA TABLAS Feb. 11 | Candoni, Negros Occidental In 1935, Santiago “Tagoy” Diego led a group to settle in Tabla Valley, now known as Candoni. Diego and the rest of the group of men cleared up the area, cut off the trees and created a road. PAMAYPAY NG CALOOCAN FESTIVAL Feb. 12 | Caloocan City One of the highlights of the city’s foundation day, it showcases the use of pamaypay or fan as traditional tool against the heat exhibited in modern folk street dancing competition. KARANOWAN FISHTIVAL Feb. 15 | Bato, Camarines Sur This festival is derived from ranow meaning “lake,” giving significance to the beautiful Lake Bato, which teems with numerous species of fishes such as the well known tabios, tilapia nilotica, carp, eel and many others. It focuses on the promotion of what the lake has to offer and the preservation of this important fish habitat. It is highlighted by a street parade where participants are clad in fish costumes. SALAPAN FESTIVAL Feb. 15 | Pulupandan, Negros Occidental It is an exhibit of various products of the municipality especially the guinamos. KALILANGAN FESTIVAL Feb. 17-27 | General Santos City It celebrates the “friendly co-existence among the peoples of General Santos City.” Activities include agro-industrial trade fair, cultural presentation, culinary contest, pagana, kulintangan, ethnic musical instrument competition and Kidig-Kidig sa Dalan. AURORA DAY AND SUMAN FESTIVAL Feb. 18- 19 | Baler, Aurora The most awaited event during the celebration of the annual Aurora Foundation Day is the Suman Festival in which the favorite rice cake delicacy takes center stage through street decors and street dancing performances by various contingents. KAP’YAAN FESTIVAL Feb. 18-20 | Jose Abad Santos, Davao del Sur This is the anniversary of the creation of the municipality with agri-trade fair and civic military parade BABAYLAN FESTIVAL Feb. 19 | Bago City, Negros Occidental It was conceived to highlight a unique aspect of Filipino heritage, one that dates back to the pre-Spanish period. This festival aims to rediscover the region’s indigenous music, literature, dances, rituals and other artistic endeavors.

PARTING SHOT

Standing on top of Magsapad gives one a breathtaking view of the Philippine Sea to the east, Biri Island’s Geron district down south and the other rock formations, including Magasang and Bel-at. This photo was taken on July 19, 2011. Photo by Cedric Solidon

“I stood willingly and gladly in the characters of everything—other people, trees, clouds. And this is what I learned, that the world’s otherness is antidote to confusion—that standing within this otherness—the beauty and the mystery of the world, out in the fields or deep inside books—can re-dignify the worst-stung heart.” — “Staying Alive,” Blue Pastures (1995) Mary Oliver (1935- ), American poet

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