Supplement February 2012
C---heongsam
THE LOST FANTASY
Floating like a butterfly Shanghai dream
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EDITOR'S LETTER
She is from Shanghai
Ranxu Zhang
zhangrx_cool@126.com
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n 1936, when American LIFE magazine claimed to be the very first all-around pictorial publication in the world, they made a LITTLE mistake. Because ten years before that, on the cold street corner of Shanghai, newsboys handed curious pedestrians a brand new publication with the film star Ms. Butterfly on the cover. That was the debut release of The Young Companion. With the aspiration to change the weak image of China in foreign publications, Wu Liande, the founder actually accomplished the goal by infusing the magazine with innovative concepts, such as being intensive, pictorial-oriented and inexpensive and enlightening contents that included features from timely coverage of wars to newest fashion trends. Most young people would see Shanghai as a newly-developed city in a developing country. But the experienced know, Shanghai is like the resurrected Titanic--
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the glorious mast of the sink ship raised to the water surface after years of disappearance. And The Young Companion is its memory of that golden age. This supplement will be your guide through our most enchanting and long-lasting theme -- Women and Style, exploring the charm of Shanghai from the luxury and colourful life more than eighty years ago to the newest vibrant cosmopolitan nowadays. No matter in any time or space, Shanghai seems to be gifted with a unique cultural attitude. When China was still in the age of extreme conservativeness and repression back in 1920s and 1930s, The Young Companion began to use renowned women figures from all aspects of life as the cover. It became the most outstanding feature of the magazine and was innovative even in the world history of pictorial. In Looking Back section we will lead you to find out the mysterious and legendary life of the very first issue cover girl--Ms. Butterfly, the Film Queen in 1920s. The latest fashion shows, the trendiest make-up, the newest
exercises, the most entertaining tabloid stories...Maybe these are not easy to be associated with a time dated back eighty years ago. But actually they were crucial elements in the city life of women in "the Paris of the Orient" in 1930s. Curious about the trendiest dress and what occasion they will fit for? Which movie presented the splendid costume and which designer was inspired by the traditional legacy? The feature-Cheongsam, the Lost Fantasy will give you a clue. The ability to attract and fascinate people from all ages shows the real charm of a city. That's something Shanghai possesses in spite of time changing. In the Fashion Shoots, photographer He Zhaoya will present selected works from her project Women from Shanghai which has being lasting for several years. While in the Interview, Lus, a modern artist traveling in Europe will bring you her re-appreciation of the beauty of Shanghai where she grew up as the increased distance in time and space. Shanghai, a place which changes with each passing day, can always amaze you. Is the herbal cosmetics the new trend in beauty? Where can you find delicate Dim Sum and a nice cup of tea? Shanghai women, masters of exquisite life, have so much to tell you.
CONTENTS
10 Floating Like a Butterfly She is the first actress in Chinese sound film, a moden fashion icon and a drama queen loved by the nation. In fact, the only thing you can be sure about her is she was a legend.
14 Cheongsam--The Lost Fantasy
20 Flowers Frozen in Time After picking up the camera, she doesn't stop shooting for Shanghai women.
As a daily dress in the Qing Dynasty, Cheongsam enjoyed its revival on the Bund in 1930s. With the special charm, it stll amazes people today again and again in literature works and classical films.
6 Stories & Legends
Films and books that will lead you to a better knowledge of the Oriental wonderland--Shanghai.
8 China FUN
With Chinese models shining on the world's runway, Chinese elements are becoming designers' new inspiration.
36 National Brand is Roaring Back
Products that were once popular come back to the stage recently with added layers that you won't want to miss out on.
38 Smart and Safe Ways to Escape from Scalpel and Chemical
Beauty sugeries and chemical products are out of date now, Shanghai ladies have better choices in a traditional way.
30 Shanghai Dream From Shanghai to Paris, from Chinese ink painting to Kandinsky, Lus, a young artist looking for dream, finally finds it home.
(Text and design: by Ranxu Zhang; Pictures and resources: from online and the interviewees)
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CULTURE
STORIES & LEGENDS
woman's friend falls in love with the would-be song-writer who happens to be none other than the soldier from the bridge.
Shanghai, a city of great wealth and glamour, the home of millionaires and beggars, gangsters and gamblers, artists and warlords.
BOOK Shanghai girls (2009)-by Lisa See Flowers of Shanghai (1998) Adapted from the earliest Shanghai direct novels which Eileen Chuang once translated into mandarin, the story tells about four women living in brothel are in tense relationships with each other by competing for survival and men’s favour. However, men who are looking for sex and pleasure, hold unspeakable attitude about the responsibility.
FILM I wish I Knew (2010) The film focuses on the people, stories and architecture spanning from the mid-1800s, when Shanghai was opened as a trading port, to the present d a y. 1 8 i n t e r v i e w e e s including Chen Danqing, Du Meir u(daughter of Du Yuesheng), Zhang Xinyi(great-grant daughter of Zeng Guofan) will present you the Shanghai they knew. Lust, Caution(2007) An espionage thriller set in WWII-era Shanghai, in which a young woman,
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Wang Jiazhi, gets swept up in a dangerous game of emotional intrigue with a powerful political figure, Mr. Yee. Gorgeous costumes and well-set scenes can really lead you to that excited mood. The Longest night in Shanghai (2007) A top Japanese hair dresser gets lost on the street of Shanghai while wondering after a show. He then meets a taxi driver who is struggling with her relationship issues. The story of them begins and all of what happen were only in one night.
Shanghai Blues (1984) In 1937 Shanghai, a soonto-depart soldier meets a young woman under a bridge during a Japanese air raid. They vow to meet after the war ends, but they don't remember each other's name or face. Ten years later, the young
In 1937, Shanghai is a city of great wealth and glamour, the home of millionaires and beggars. Thanks to their father’s prosperous business, Pearl Chin and her younger sister, are having the time of their lives. Until one day their father tells them that he has gambled away their wealth and that in order to repay his debts he must sell the girls as wives to suitors from California.
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TREND
China FUN Since Liu Wen and Bonnie Chen, oriental faces are not uncommon on world's fashion shows. However, power of Chinese elements is not restricted to that.
Vivinnie Tam for HP Mini
Taste maker like Marc Jacobs just used cheongsam cut and frog buttons last year, Alberta Ferretti again brings us Chinese floral prints this season. Chinese red, embroidery and tassels, indulge yourself in the Eastern fun!
Philosophy 2012S RTW
Shanghai Lao Fengxiang Fine Jewellery
Fu Liansheng Cloth Shoes
Louis Vuitton 2011 Spring
Ralph Lauren Tasseled suede cluth
Shanghai Tang Jasmine Rain Scented candle
Shanghai Tang Lacquer sapelli box
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Mary Katrantzou Dark Dynasty knitted silk-blend leggings
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LOOKING BACK industry in a turbulence age, she was a legend herself.
Success as an Actress At the beginning of 20th century, film was introduced in China as a new "fancy entertainment". The freshness and excitement of it quickly won audience's hearts and encouraged the emerging of local film makers. Due to the special location and prosperous economy, Shanghai, the orient Paris, became the centre of Chinese film industry.
Floating Like A Butterfly While Jean Dujardin in The Artist was frustrated when silent films turned to talkies, on the other side of the world, Chinese “Peppy Miller�-- Ms. Butterfly handled it well and became a national icon. With a dimpled smiling face and curvaceous figure, she was the queen of Chinese cinema.
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ecided to give herself a new name when applying for the film school, Bao Juan used Ms. Butterfly (Hu Die in Chinese) instead of Huqin (a traditional instrument in China). She said Huqin is played by people, but Hudie (butterfly) is free to fly wherever it wants. This proved to be true. A few years later, she became one of the most remarkable actresses in the Chinese film industry. Born on February 21st in a Nongtang
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of Puqing Li, Ti Lan Qiao area of Shanghai, the only child in the family was named Bao Juan by a pair of happy parents. No one could predict that the little girl was going to be the queen of Chinese cinema in the future. People living there today may be unfamiliar with Ms. Butterfly, but in 1930s that name was a pride of this city. Taking part in more than a hundred films, including silent films and sound films, she successfully expressed Chinese female characters from all kinds of backgrounds. Being a witness to the thriving Chinese film
One day in 1924, when Bao Juan was 16, an advertisement on the newspaper drew her attention. It was put by a new film school, aiming to recruit students. Love of acting and the desire to share the responsibility of raising family made Bao Juan applied the acting course. Although being a new film school, it had lecturers like Hong Chen, Wang Xuchang and Chen Shouyin, who were all successful pioneers in the industry. She studied very hard and began to show her talent. "Because of her father working in the railindustry, the family moved frequently during her growth. Having been to many places from North to South in China, she accumulated many experiences and feelings about life which her peers could rarely get," Gao Xiaojian, researcher of Chinese Art Research Institution says. H e r h a r d wo r k i n g a t t i t u d e a n d outstanding appearance soon got the attention of Star Motion Picture Company--the leading film company at that time. After her graduation, she got a character right away. "The movie was called Amid the Battle of Musketry , Ms. Butterfly was playing a flower girl." says Zhao Shihui, the expert of film history. That was the start of her life as an actress. Later in her memoir, she said, "From that moment, I entered the kaleidoscope of film world and started to play
The film Sing-song Girl Red Peony (1931) was the first sound film in China and Ms. Butterfly played the leading role--singer Red Peony with the singing part recorded by Mei Lanfang (Chinese Peking Opera star). "She played a Peking Opera actress, but in fact she really couldn’t sing. So the company invited Mei Lanfang to record the soundtrack, which got a very good effect," Gao Xiaojian says.
Ms. Butterfly in Chinese traditional dress
Her acting career peaked when the film Twin Sisters came out. "The twins have very different characters, and the techniques of showing one person as two were complicated at that time. So it required a lot for the actress," says Zhong Dafeng. However, Ms. Butterfly’s efforts were not in vain. Shown in the cinema for two months, it created a miracle at the box office.
"In the history of world movies, a lot of actors and
actresses couldn't make it when silent films turned to sound films. Ms. Butterfly, on the contrary, did very well in that transitional time."
Different characters played by Ms. Butterfly
Fashion & Culture Icon On the New Year's Day of 1933, Star Daily of Shanghai held a competition to select the drama q u e e n . M s. B u t t e r f l y wo n t h e competition with twice ballot than the second nominator’s. Driven by huge economic interests, Lux Soap Company launched a “lux soap movie star” campaign later, and Ms. Butterfly ranked first again. "Actually, in the next year, Fuxin Tobacco
different roles. Sometimes I even felt those characters and I were really connected."
Poster of Twin Sisters
The White-cloud Pagoda series and The Burning of Red Lotus Temple
made in 1928 by Star Company after she joined in, made her rise to fame overnight. People were crazy about her roll-- Hong, a chicly heroine in The Red Lotus Temple and her name became widely known in the country. "In the history of world movies, a lot of actors and actresses couldn't make it when silent films turned to sound films. Some of them which were quite huge in silent film times could still act, but they were unable to remain the success as before. Ms. Butterfly, on the contrary, did very well in that transitional time," says Zhong Dafeng, the professor of Beijing Film Academy. Poster of The Burning of Red Lotus Temple
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could see her in the photo shoot "You wearing a swimsuit. Chinese women were
not ashamed of the explosion of their body any more. They were learning to appreciate it."
Company also held a selection and without question, the winner was still Ms. Butterfly," says Chen Shan, professor of BFA.
The Film Queen poater
Ms. Butterfly with the new car
Tennis--the new sports
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"The winner was voted by common people, so it says a lot about the aesthetic orientation of the public at that time," says Chen Shan. "In 1920s, stars like Zhang Zhiyun and Wang Hanlun were more of the ladylike style, but things were different in 1930s. The western education system changed the standard of beauty in young people’s minds. Compared to the lady-like, they preferred healthy and vigorous girls who know how to live a modern life." According to that, Ms. Butterfly was definitely a fashion icon. Wearing the most fashionable clothes from Paris, playing tennis, and advertising for cars, she embraced the whole new lifestyle with an open mind. As the cover girl of the first issue of The Young Companion, she kept a good relationship with the magazine and appeared several times later. "You could see her in the photo shoot wearing a swimsuit. It was quite remarkable because it showed a new attitude -- Chinese women were not
ashamed of the explosion of their body any more. They were learning to appreciate it," says Chen Shan. However, what excited our lady of the hour was not the “Queen” title. In her later memoir she mentioned that she was flattered by the Best Film Award The Flower of Freedom had been granted by The Association of Chinese Educational Films, in which she was the leading role. And in the same year, the film was sent to Venice Film Festival. "She was the very first film star attended the inter national film festival. The person accompanied her was Mei Lanfang. T he two represented China at that time, one was for traditional Chinese Culture and the other was for moder n culture," Chen Shan says. After Venice, Ms. Butterfly continued her visit to Berlin, Paris, London and Rome. She was welcomed by the local media and made people know that China had its own films. Not long after that she was invited by The Young Companion Book Company to write a book on her travels in Europe. From teachers to prostitutes, from silent films to talkies, Ms. Butterfly with her excellent acting skills and trendy personal style, was not only a rare legendary actress in 1930s and 1940s on Chinese film screen, but also an immortal fashion icon in Shanghai’s golden age.
Ms. Butterfly with Mei Lanfang in Europe
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Cheongsam —The Lost Fantasy A kind of dress that survived from Qing Dynasty and succeed in the night clubs on the Bund, still grabs men and women’s eyes today. No matter in the films or on the runway, it adds so many colours to people’s fantasies. 14
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FASHION
Eileen Chang’s Women–Eager Souls Wrapped in Cheongsam with a Taste of the Occidental
is eager to be dressed like “a Everyone Shanghai girl. However, by the time they have achieved some individuality, the tailors have already moved on. ”
Among all the striking quotes of this pearl of modern Chinese literature, “Life is a colorful gown, covered with lice” may be the most penetrating, as it is with her sharp pen that the reader catch a glimpse of the sound and the fury of Shanghai in the 1930s. When it comes to the gown itself, this stylistic writer did not spare her pen, which can be seen from her emphasis on describing the dress of her protagonist on the first date, one critical
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s the soft and delicate voice drifts out of the gramophone, the key words of Chinese fashion field during the 1930s and 1940s once again remind listeners of the thick nostalgic atmosphere still haunting today—Shanghai cheongsam. Actually, cheongsam made its debut more than 300 years before it was all the rage. Back then, exclusively wore by aristocratic women of Qing Empire which reigned over China, it was designed to be a loose-fitting long-toankle straight gown with complicated brocade, a combination of nomadic roughness and handcraft meticulousness. With a blink of an historical eye, the feudalistic Qing Dynasty went with the wind, leaving their dresses survive and succeed.
Traditional embroidered cheongsam in Qing Dynasty
When it came to the pre-WWII period, the stylish and tight-fitting cheongsam finally grabbed the irreplaceable status in Shanghai, after being transformed to be shorter, narrow-sleeved and more fitted for woman’s body with continuous changes in details, which is also most associated with the “China design” in today’s runway. Walking into the magnificent edifice along the dusk-shrouded Bund, you may find yourself surrounded by socialites and upper-class women in exquisite cheongsam, whose dancing cur ve were highlighted by mandarin collar, embroidered front, shaped waist, slit cut, as well as imported nylon stockings. Still finding that scenario unimaginative? In the following, a visual feast is waiting for you. The chefs are renowned Chinese writers and movie costume designers.
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Actress wearing Cheongsam in Love in a Fallen City
Eileen Chang's portrait
“Life is like a colorful gown, covered with lice” Wang Jiazhi and Mr. Yee in Lust, Caution
moment concerning a Chinese lady’s lifelong happiness. Here comes a showcase by characters in some of her masterpieces. In Love in a Fallen City , “on the bedstead hang her chiffon cheongsam with her body temperature, glistening bluish white”. In The Golden Cangue, “wearing a pair of jadeite eardrop, she chose an apple-green georgette cheongsam, which features high collar, flounce-edged sleeves and western style pleated skirt”. In The Golden Cangue , “wearing a pair of jadeite eardrop, she chose an apple-green georgette cheongsam, which features high collar, flounce-edged sleeves and western style pleated skirt”. I n L u s t , C a u t i o n , “ H e r s l e e ve l e s s cheongsam of electric blue moiré satin
Pai Hsien-yung’s Muses— Meteors Leaving behind Fleeting Seductiveness and Grace Sentimentality is not patented by women writers, for famous Taiwanese writer Pai Hsien-yung, “Time is the cruelest, for it damages and erases everything, including t h e m o s t va l u a b l e m e m o r y, w h i ch contradicted the expectation for eternity held by people in love.” Therefore, under his pen, although the readers are lost in the fantasy of sexy curves and extravagant outfitting, in the end, they are grounded with a lament. Fortunately, we will just
m
ily wearing cheongsa
omen from royal fam
reached to the knees, its shallow, rounded collar standing only half an inch tall, in the western style”.
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walk in an extreme slow manner, expecting other women to watch her in envy.”
have a look at the heyday of his beauties. In The Last Night of King Tai Pan , at a corner of Parliament Hall, the hottest nightclub of pre-WWII Shanghai, King Tai Pan, wearing “cerise cheongsam embroidered with black and golden silk threads”, is waiting for the curtain over her unfolded. In Eternal Yin Xueyan, the most competitive social butterfly had men entirely at her feet in both “silver cheongsam under a silver fox shawl” and “brocade cheongsam with short sleeves and a row of apricot frog buttons on the front.” GongLi in a silver cheongsam
TV drama The Last Night of King Tai Pan
I n T he Dream in Visiting the Garden , the two old ladies, despite
the shining luxurious accessories, both smartly chose the grey dresses: pearl-grey cheongsam” and “silvergrey cheongsam decorated with vermillion tulle”.
William Chang—A Delicate Screen Date with Cheongsam Jump out of the books and TV dramas, have you ever noticed the fabulous costumes in some Chinese movies such as In the Mood for Love and 2046 , directed by Wong KarWai, and the latest one The Flowers of War, directed by Zhang Yimou? It is William Chang who takes all the credits. Thanks to his dedication to cheongsam design according to the personality of various roles, the oriental mirage of tempered passion of Shanghai ladies in the old days came to audience’s mind even before the facilitation of high performing technique. “Many of the aunts of our block favored cheongsam, typically those with Shanghai dialect.” Spending his childhood with many neighbors migrated from Shanghai William is blessed with inspiration from memory, “It is interesting to see a rich lady in cheongsam. She was so proud of the slit cutting at the lower side hem of the dress, which was often embroiled with three rows of expensive silk treads, that she would
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Highly aware that Shanghai ladies of the old g ood day were faceconscious and began to take delight in showing their good figure through tight-fitting dresses, William spared no efforts to “dress those beauties well” in collaborating with directors, making his design in perfect harmony with the roles’ figure and temperament. In the movie In the Mood for Love for which he served as the artistic advisor, a multitude of beautiful Cheongsams had been shown by Mag gie Cheung, eyecatching scenery which has become an eternal classic together with the movie. To reconstruct the exact
Maggie Cheung in In the Mood for Love
kind of Cheongsam from 1950s, the art director William Chang and the director Kar Wai Wong extracted over 300 old film clips within which the actresses were wearing Cheongsam. William Chang even took some premium cloths out of his personal collection and contributed them to the costumes of the film. Together with a few experienced retired tailors from Shanghai, William Chang made 46 pieces of fine Cheongsams for Mag gie Cheung. These eleg ant, refined and sexy garments enhanced the grace of the protagonist.
FLASHBACK: the Fabulous Cheongsam in the Classic Scenes. (from left to right, up to dowm)
1. In the Mood for Love(2000) 2.6.The Flowers of War(2011) 3. 2046(2004) 4. Blood Brothers(2007) 5. Shanghai(2010)
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PHOTOSHOOT
Flowers Frozen in Time 16 years ago, when she took up the camera and started her journey of recording the beauty of Shanghai women by photos, few people trusted her. Today, with the third photo album coming out, she is the hottest female protrait photographer in town.
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n December 30th, when ever yone wanted to seize the last chance to plan how to celebrate the end of 2011, what did you do? It may not be difficult to recall for He Zhaoya, the local woman photographer in Shanghai. “That was the opening day of my exhibition-Shanghai Women at epSITE Gallery," she said. Spreading the opening party message on Weibo, He was worried a bit about how many people would show up on that day. "Finally, it had over 200 people on site, and the house was almost packed," He laughed. Graduating from Stage Art major of Shanghai Theatre Academy, He decided to work for the government instead of a theatrical company. But her pursuit of art didn't stop. In 1997, with a camera, she shuttled in the complicated Nongtang (typical lane in Shanghai) all summer and started her project of shooting women in Shanghai. "I was entering my middleage phase. Trying to avoid the crises of middle-age self-consciousness, I need to find something to distract my attention. That's the beginning of my photographer career," said He. At first she got the models from the introduction of friends, but with the rising fame, her list was more diverse with names of celebrities, entrepreneurs and scholars. Coming
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from different age and various backgrounds, they have one similar core -- Shanghai woman. In He's e y e s, t h e S h a n g h a i w o m a n i s confident, composed and charming. "They don't have the most beauty face, like women in Zhejiang or Jiangsu province, but their special style makes them stand out. Being tall and slim, Shanghai women look very feminine in appearance." According to He, the charm of Shanghai women is not restricted to their appearance, but also shown in their attitude of dealing life. "They are masters of communicating art. Bright and flexible, they know how to get the results they want." Getting the hang of these qualities, He was trying very hard to blend them in her photos. Black and white is the tone of He's portraits of Shanghai women. She wants to use the two ultimate simple colours to lead viewers' attention to the contents of her works. "Photos can contain so many layers and different aspects of information. Actually, it's quite difficult to make people see what you want to express," she said. Cleverly g rasped the attention with the hue, He claimed the photos reflect the spirits and inner beauty of women which are quite different from works of male photographers. "They are used to see the appearance of women: faces and curves. Or they pay more attention to the techniques: the light, angle and
“Certainly, what el
Helen Li(Li Hongyan), fashion designer "I saw your photo that night and I still think that's one of my best works."
(COPYRIGHT: He Zhaoya)
lse can I do? It’s part of me now.” scene. They may never see the woman as a special existence with feelings and emotions." He has being shooting Shanghai women for 15 years. Every two or three years, she would put down the camera and rest a while. “I don’t want to repeat myself, you know, especially for the art work, if you are doing one theme everyday, it’s hard to find breakthrough.” He told me after she went back from having some down
time, she became more tolerant and could understand the subject more. “I used to shoot more rigidly, such as using the specific dress or the set scene, but then with the deeper understanding of life, photography and myself, I can give models more space to express themselves.” When asked about whether she would continue the project, He Zhaoya smiled, “Certainly, what else can I do? It’s part of me now.”
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Ju Wenpei, music teacher, TV presenter and actress "I did a shooting for Wenpei ten years ago when she was studying at music school. Now she is more mature and becomes a real charming lady."
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Qin Yi, famous actress and artist, is working in the film industry for more than seventy years.
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Chen Lei, TV presenter of ICS(International Channel of Shanghai) "That was the beginning of my Women at Home theme, and everything seemed to be uncertain. But she really got that kind of feeling, which encouraged me in someway."
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Shi Yihong, Peking Opera singer--the national first-level actress "We did the shooting at Sasha bar which was near Shanghai Peking Opera Theatre. Chiang Kai-shek used to live there, so the atmosphere was quite different."
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Ren Xiaowen, writer "Xiaowen might be the youngest girl in the photoshoot. But she is really nice to talk to. For the pictures, I have to say, the camera loves her."
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Ms. Cathy. W. Hau, manager of Shanghai Time's Square(Department Store) "It was a happy experience to work with Ms. Cathy. She is a fantastic lady who is crazy about arts. And we finished the shooting in about one hour."
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Jin Yuxi, owner of the cosmetics brand-- YUE SAI "We did the shooting at her house in downtown Shanghai, and from the balcony, you could see those skyscrapers."
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Xin Lili, famous ballerina and art director of Shanghai Ballet Troupe
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ART
ALL IMGAES ARE FROM LUS
Where the Dream Begins From Shanghai to Paris, from Chinese ink painting to Kandinsky, Lus, a young artist chasing dream, finally finds it home.
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In front of me is a lady with a cashmere shawl, composed and elegant. For a moment, I almost fail to distinguish whether she is in reality or comes from Eileen Chang's love novels in 1930s.
"C
Works of Chinese Painting while in Aisa
Painting and practicing in the library? Without much of her own choice when started at the age of three, Lus says she was lucky because painting happened to be her favorite thing in life. "My family has the art tradition and my parents were usually visited by friends like painters and designers on weekends," says Lus, "That's how I was brought up." The artistic environment from family cultivated her passion for painting, but it was this teacher -- Chen Junde, a fauvist artist in China, who made her think about taking it as a career. "He told me if I choose painting, I would hit the road of loneliness and suffering, both physical and mental. So he asked me if I could manage that,"
an I have a cup of Xiang Pian, please?" says Lus softly while handling the menu back to the waitress. It's the afternoon tea time in Shanghai Blues, a rare place in London where you can have a taste of the essence of Chinese cuisine. After hearing Lus' interesting drink choice, I start to look her up and down ag ain, the girl who were talking and laughing with me when we entering the restaurant just now disappeared. In front of me is a lady with a "Painting is a road of loneliness and cashmere shawl on her suffering, but I am not that kind of shoulders, composed a n d e l e g a n t . F o r a person who would give up." moment I almost fail to distinguish whether she is an artist she says. "I answered him with my in reality or a figure from Eileen action, I believed him but I am that Chang's love novels of Shanghai in kind of person who would not stop 1930s. "Lovely shawl!" I squeeze out trying, especially when the journey is a sentence and try to drag myself harder." back to reality. "It's my work for a selection of Shanghai Stories--an old- Having decided to be a professional brand silk company and the story on painter, Lus furthered her study it is part of a famous Kunqu Opera-- of Chinese painting in the best art The Peony Pavilion" Lus seems a bit school in China-- Central Academy of Fine Arts after her graduation shy. from the Art School of Shanghai From Jasmine Xiang Pian (green tea University. "At that time I was with a touch of jasmine fragrance, following the style of Lin Fengmian, a popular choice for young tea the Chinese painting master who drinkers) and her hand-painted blends the essence of ink painting shawl, you may get a clue about this a n d o i l p a i n t i n g. I wa s t o t a l l y girl's exquisite taste. However, who obsessed with it till one day my would have thought she rarely played course director called my attention with her peers when she was young that we are different people living in because her time was all spent on different times, and I can't base my learning with masters of Chinese entire life on another world. That's
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ART
like a wake up call, making me to pursue my true desires." After th at Lus beg an her j our ney of exploring and tried many styles of painting. In Singapore, she first experienced the deep feelings of her hometown--Shanghai. Missing the changes of seasons made her paint a series of natural scenes which won big success. "But commercial success made me rethink: is it what I want? Can I really feel myself in it?" she says, "I was not sure about the answer but I knew the feeling was not right, so I moved on to Europe." In France, the birthplace of
"I locked myself up in the studio. With the absence of sunlight and uninterrupted jazz, I started my Shanghai dream." Impressionism, Lus saw the eternal subtle changes of light in Monet's Rouen Cathedral, the poppy flowers in the barley fields that might have inspired Van Gogh and festive country party and beautiful woman which once the theme of Renoir. Golden sunshine and bright colours of southern France and Italy made her create passion come back like a snake wakes up from hibernation. Daring colours, Impressionist techniques and the theme of Shanghai woman in the golden age, here come the mature works of Lus. As an artist traveling and working in Europe, the distance and sense of belonging finally make Lus finds herself the ultimate reason to paint and the theme that means so much to her. "I take it as the new beginning of my journey. We never know what life's gonna give us, do we?" she smiles.
J = Jennifer L= Lus
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J: From your blog, it seems the theme of Shanghai first appeared in a series of paintings when you were in Singapore, how did that happen? What was the trigger? L: Those were some paintings about four seasons of Shanghai. You know, although had been living in Singapore for a while then, I still didn't get used to the hot and humid weather which lasts all the year round. Sitting in a muggy room with an old electric fan, I seriously started to miss Shanghai where you can feel the beauty of the changing seasons. I have intimate family and friends, familiar environment and comfortable life back home, but in Singapore I needed to start from the beginning alone. That really made me homesick. I believe that was the trigger. J: Did you start to explore the subject of Shanghai women then? L: That was something I began to think about. Besides the commercials, I really wanted to do something special and reflected my true feelings instead of pandering to market and customers. So I locked myself up in the studio, with the absence of sunlight and uninterrupted jazz. I started my Shanghai dream. The long days were never-ending. But my efforts were not in vain. I conceived and painted my first works about Shanghai women, which were inspired by five legendary ladies in old Shanghai. Although you could still see the shadows of Lin Fengmian, my Chinese ink painting icon, from the faces of the figures in the painting, I had started the journey of pursuing my true desire. J: Have Shanghai women become your main theme since then? L: No. I took a break at the beginning of my days in France. I travelled a lot to Normandy, Rouen, Provence and Florence and was so astonished by the amazing scenes I used to see. The bright colours, changeable lights and broad views really excited me and urged me to paint my feelings about the trip. That was when I changed my painting style by using bright chunks of colour.
Work in France-- She is From the Sea
Work in France--The Miserable City
Work in France--Read about You
Work in Holland--The Time
Work in Holland--Turn Right on the Left Bankside
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J: Then what made you turn back to the Shanghai motif ? L: After I finished several landscape paintings, a question came into my mind--what's the point of it? Painting needs passion and deep love. My works will never be better than local painters because whatever I painted was from a visitor's view. For me, being in Europe made me sense more of my identity as a Shanghainese than ever. Pan Yuliang’s (renowned Chinese painter and sculptor who had studied in France and Italy) tutor once told her, "If memories are all you've got, then paint them." I can still remember the feeling of being enlightened when I first heard those words. And that became the guideline of my paintings. J: As a native, what is Shanghai like in your mind? L: I was born and brought up there. Even though I am a native, I resisted speaking the dialect for a period of time. Because I thought there were so many beautiful expressions you couldn't speak with it. The prejudice lasted till I went to Sing apore where I came to know some old Shanghainese. I was surprised by their elegant way of living which was quite different from what I used to see. The Shanghai dialect they used was very refined and graceful. From then on I started to get to know the fancy history of Shanghai. When I first left the city, I didn't feel attached to it at all. But after I came to a different land, the space and distance made those memory fragments like pieces of a jigsaw, completing a whole new image of Shanghai in my mind. J: The women in your paintings have nice curves and are realized in vivid colours. Are they ideal Shanghai women in your eyes? L: Women in all my paintings are from Shanghai. Some of them are based on memories while others are the reflection of my own emotions. What I did was to make them alive on canvas again. As you can see,
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Work in Holland-Estee Lauder
their faces are vague. It means they can be any women in the city. They seem to have identical trendy hair, fancy Qi-Pao (also called cheongsam) and, as you said, a nice figure, but underneath they are different souls in different lives. It will make you wonder who they really are, but you may never find out. Uncertainty, that's the real charm of them. Varied by backgrounds and experiences, there are a thousand Shanghai women in a thousand people's eyes. In fact, it's fascinating, isn't it? J: What do you want people to see in your works? What kind of emotions
do you want to arouse? L: I hope my paintings can recall people a similar memory or emotion which may be lost or concealed in daily chores. And I believe when we look at a painting, even we don't know the full story of it, the empathy can make us predict an end together. J: You have held many exhibitions in France and Denmark, what's the influence of them? L: After I came to Europe, I find the image of China in people's heads here stays from what they get in Chinese restaurants which is nothing more than cheap food, lanterns and dragons. Negative information and misunderstandings make people rarely see the true face of China. A lot of them were astonished after seeing my exhibition and couldn't believe the colourful and vibrant scenes. But that's what people should know -- the beautiful side of China. I do hope my works can contribute a little to help to get rid of narrow onesided stereotypes of my country. J: You said it was your choice to make painting your career, have you ever regretted about it? L: Not for a moment, even when I couldn't follow my true desires for years before I came to Europe. But lucky me, I finally get where I am in spite of all the obstacles. The hard times makes me more appreciate things more. Making a living doing what you like is amazing enough in its own right.
Work in Holland-In the Flower Field
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BEAUTY
National Brand is Roaring Back Once enjoyed a great success, national brands rehashed themselves and made a revival.
Pechoin Hand Cream
Childhood memories Do you remember the smell of mum's Pehchaolin moisture cream? Have you ever used Yu Meijing children's cream? Come on, if you are one of the generation after 1980s, these must be the most unforgettable scents of childhood in your life. Just when you think these products are out of date, they stage a comeback!
Pechoin Glycerin NO.1 PZH Quhuang Whitening Repare Cream
Yu Meijing Children's Cream
Herborist Hydrating&Moisturing Eye Gel
Chinese herbs T his is a word from Chinese culture dictionar y, which is also a key word in traditional Chinese cosmetics now. Brands like Herborist, Forest Cabin and Inoherb all stick to their "herbal way" in front of the high-tech(new science) promises of foreign brands. Devotedly doing the development research and launching new lines, they infuse their brands with the essence of "Natural" and "Balanced" concepts in Chinese medicine.
RHODIOLA Fine Whitening Essence Mask
Forest Cabin Fresh Lotus Leaf Shampoo
HERBORN Anti Wrinkle Eye Cream
Nostalgic aesthetic Beauty in an ancient costume, Complexformed characters and fine china containers, the nostalgic aesthetic is really huge these years on the packages of national brands. The companies add even embroidery patterns and calligraphy to show their elegant and classy identity. Jala, which is one of the big cosmetics company in China, brings up a whole new visual identification system of oriental aesthetic this year.
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Shanghai Woman Snow Cream Xie Fuchun Loose Power
VIVE Multi-Cleansing Cream
Kong Fengchun Loose Power
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HEALTH
Smart and Safe Ways to Escape from Scalpel and Chemical Fashion comes and goes, and in the end, what suits you is something tagged with “tradition�. That view has been echoed by more and more smart Shanghai women when it comes to approaches to beauty.
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F
rom “snow cream” to Botox, from defecation device to liposuction, Shanghai ladies, having been standing at the bund facing western beauty trend since the early 20th century, go to great length to try various makeup and skin care products and exotic therapies. However, recently, they begin to resort to remedies and recopies based on homely folk experiences or monographs on traditional Chinese medicine, given such terrible reports about unsafe skin whitening products with metal hazards and fatal breast implants. Then, what is the key word for their neo-classic beauty strategies? The answer is “nature”, which is attained through your mouth, hands and mind. We may catch a glimpse of that and some tips from our oriental counterparts.
MOUTH—be careful with what you eat GOAL: PERFECT SKIN
A prevailing standard of a beautiful Chinese girl according to the theories of traditional Chinese medicine is she must boast an adequate supply of “blood”, an element that nourishes all parts and tissues of the body, as well as safeguarding an adequate degree of
moisture. Here is an inconvenient truth: it is vulnerable to age increase, internal secretion changes and unhealthy life styles, with the withered-yellow complexion and dizziness as a result. Conscious about the worst scenario, smart Shanghai ladies, make blood enriching the priority by making the best of the following ingredients—red dates, lotus seed, longan meat, pork liver, pig blood, lean meat, yellow catch eel, sea cucumber, abalone, spinach, carrots, black agarics, shrimp and brown sugar—with cooking methods of steaming, boiling, or stewing. Here the editor offers an easy-to-make recipe for congee with a mixture of ingredients of “warm” and “strength” nature. Take a bowl of the fragrant congee as the breakfast and you will regain the rosy and supple skin. 1. You need to prepare the following materials: Polished round-grained rice: 100g Smashed yam: 100g Coix seed: 50g Diced sweet potatoes: 50g Longan meat: 20g Brown sugar (optional) 2. Pour the diced sweet potatoes, polished rice and coix seed into the pot, to simmer with the appropriate amount of boiled water. 3. When the three ingredients turn soft, add the longan and the smashed yam for about 30 minutes. 4. Sprinkle some sugar on the serving bowl as desired when heat.
HANDS—a soothing massage brings you more than relaxation GOAL: PERFECT BREAST No need to re-emphasize the magic feeling of stress released and body lightened after you leave a massage therapist. We here will take a look at the emerging trend among Shanghai girls who are unsatisfied with their breast shape or size. Rather than following the glamorous advertising featuring sexy muse by hospitals, they would head for an old house in Shikumen, where a veteran in Chinese acupuncture and moxibustion can stimulate the secretion of female hormone in
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a natural way—sting the acupoint to eradicate the block on Jing-Luo (the interior rout transporting blood) in order to facilitate the nutriment of the specific organ. Apart from taking professional treatment, they are active in spotting and sharing basic massage methods they can do during the bath time. Do not hesitate to help yourself.
Steps: • •
• • • •
Wash hands before massage, cut nails, so as not to damage the skin or nipple. Use the fingers to gently smooth away from the nipple. These movements travel from the nipple and directly away using no more pressure than what you would apply to your eyelid. Gently massage the breast with a kneadinglike motion, using lifting and pressing movements. Slowly use the hands to twist the breast in a clock-wise and anticlockwise direction in a gentle way. Apply a warm towel to the breasts for 3 minutes and then use the palm to massage the surrounding areas of the breasts. After the bath, award yourself with such fruits as green papaya, orange and grape, which will add bonus points to your efforts!
MIND—a cultivation of temperament equals no less than a five-star spa GOAL: PERFECT ATTITUDE Having been fed up with all the hustle and bustle of metropolitan life, an increasing number of Shanghai ladies have begun to discover the real killer of their charming image: the pollution of their once pure and natural mind. Therefore, once off the suit and heels, they directly walk into the study and do the homework of beautification by
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self-cultivation. For Shanghai girls, it is imperative to apply some natural cream and scalpel to the heart than scratching the head for choosing the best chemical beauty products or plastic surgeries. Some of them read classic books rich in cliché-yet-effective admonition on creating the harmony between heaven and human so as to return to your original nature. In their eyes, the simple and logical words are philosophical recipes for anxiety and stress from the family and workplace, the accumulation of which may influence the functioning of organs, nerves, and most importantly, the smooth supply of blood. Some of them cultivate the temperament and strengthen the spirit through practicing traditional Chinese calligraphy and painting. The activity with brush and ink requires slow movement, hidden power and high level of concentration. An-hour practice is a therapy of mind tranquilization and an innovative piece of works also means a sense of fulfillment that brings glamour to your face. Just imagine your feelings when finishing an oil painting—a western parallel of cultivation approach. Plus, for your reference, the following are some popular quotes from the Chinese books concerning the purpose.
The key to body strengthening is being active, while to mind cultivation is being still; it is a contented mind that harvests perpetual pleasure, and it is lack of desire that ensures a peaceful mind. To preserve health, it is necessary to overcome five obstacles: the first is fame and wealth; the second is emotional instability; the third is carnal pleasures; the fourth is excess nutrient; the fifth is distraction and depression.
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