A wilderness to call your own - March 2011, Go!

Page 1

A wilderness

to call your own

Bakkrans Nature Reserve in the remote eastern Cederberg offers a special guarantee: 6 000 hectares of wilderness all to yourself. WORDS ERNS GRUNDLING PICTURES DENVER HENDRICKS

I

t’s happened to all of us: You book a spot to escape the whirring hamster wheel of daily life. All you want to do is hide out in the bundu. Relax. Get a bit of peace and quiet. You’ve chosen a lovely spot and you unpack and get the fire going. Then another car rolls in. The neighbours. Soon the teenage daughter is singing along to Justin Bieber blaring from the 6x9 speakers in the open boot and dad comes over to offer unwanted tips about the best way to braai kebabs. Before you know it you’re yearning for your own home and the comforts of urban life. Hang on. There is a place where you’ll never have to suffer the ordeal of lousy neighbours ever again: Bakkrans Nature Reserve, tucked away in the lesser known eastern part of the Cederberg called the Red Cederberg, owing to the colour of the mountains at sunset. Whether you book one or all four stone cottages, this 6 000 ha reserve will be yours and yours alone. Other visitors will have to wait until the next available weekend. Except for Arrie Beukes, the 71-year-old reserve manager, you won’t see another soul.

The outback of the Cederberg Earlier this morning, photographer Denver Hendricks and I left our car at the Bakkrans office in Keurbosfontein, about 30 km south of Wupperthal, from where we accompany Arrie in his Land Rover to the reserve. Now the 4x4 is rattling and swaying towards the stone cottages in the outback of the Cederberg, where we’ll be staying for the next two days. On our way there (it takes about an hour to drive the 20 km) Arrie points out three Cederberg landmarks to the west: the Wolfberg Arch, Tafelberg and Sneeukop. Arrie is always willing to play guide during your stay at Bakkrans – and he knows this area like no one else does. Whether he’s sitting in his cottage >

THE GOLDEN HOUR. A view like this makes getting up early worth every groan. Reserve manager Arrie is more than willing to take you out in his Land Rover to explore the reserve. GO! March 2011 93

& # $ $ & + & # $ #( ) # ' $&$ + # # ! &"$ $ & # # & + ( $ &"$ $+ & ##+ & & $ '&$ ( # ' # & $& #$!

#& * #& && # & + & &) + # # & # # # $ # '$ #& & # $! ## & $ ' $&$ $ #& # #& &# & ) ( # $ ( $ & # $ #( !

# $ $ #' ' + - $' $ # # # # !

, + #$ ) ')# $ # $ )# $ ' $ ' ) ' $ %/ /// $ #* ' # # # ' # # # $$ # ' $# * # ')# $ #* !

$ #* ' # $'# ' $ # ' ) * ' # $ ' $ )' ' ) #' ' #' ! '"$ # # - ' # * # ' $' ' ' $# * # # ' + $'! # (/

+ #$ # ' ' ' $ ' + ' * # ) # - )' + # + $' ) ' ' - '# $$ ' $ # #'-! * * $ ' ' ' # # # # $)## ) + - # + ' ' + # ' # ' # # $ #* ! $ ' +++!# # # ! !. # # # ' !

# 03 % % 3& & $ "8 # % ( / % &63 & 0 % : #&&" % &/ $&6%3 % ; / &/ 0 &8 % :&6 &00 # % /& " # 7 0 &/ ""/ %0+ , ""/ %0 0 0 (# 0 6/ - 0 :0 3 &8% / & 3 / 0 /7 & % 7 % / 03 6 ; %+ ! ( 3/ " 8 % 0 3 /&6 #60 :% &0+ % (# %% 3 0 3/ ( / &63 ## 3 3 % 0 :&6 % & % 3 / 0 /7 " &/ $ # 0 / :&6/ $&6%3 % " 8 3 / 0 ; 3 3 03 /0 #&&" &/ /& " /3 &&# &8% % /& " (&&# / 7 3 < "$ % 38&/" & 9 3/ #0 % #&&" &/ $ + 0 0 3 / & 4 ( $&6%3 % ; / :&6 $ 3 #0& 0(&3 $0 &" 0(/ % &" 6 " / % "# (0(/ % /+ &$ 3 % #0 . / ##: # " 3& 0 )(/ / #: /&$ 0 03 % * 0 3 #60 7 ( $&6%3 % # &( / 8 0 &63 # 3 0 ; & 60 7 # # &( / + ( &( / /603 0 3 3! 0/ 7 / 0 & % $(&/ 3 %3 / 0 / 3 ""/ %0+ 3 / # " 3 3 /&& 0 (/& #: 8&6# %.3 7 0(&33 3 &6/ 03&% &33 0+ &% 0 6 #3 3 3 &&3 & "&(( % 0 $0 3& # % %3& 3 /& "+ &33 0 / 0 $(# + &% 0 % &630 3 /&&$ 8 3 60 3& # 3 % &3 0 &8 /+ / .0 %& # 3/ 3: 0& 3.0 && 3& ( " # $( :&6 &%.3 8 %3 3& 03 ( &% 00 )&/ # &( / .0 3 #* &% 3 8 : 3& 3 3 /&&$+ 3.0 60" % .$ 0 33 % % /&%3 & $: &33 + & 3 03 # 0 3 / 3 /&& % # 00 % 6% 3 &$ # + % 7 % 0 3 & 7 # &6%3 %0 &% 3 &/ ;&% $&/ 3 % '<< "$ 8 : 38 % #7 % % 63 /# % + 0 3 $&6%3 %0 % 6%": 0 % 03&% &6# /0 /&6% $ #&8 / % &/ % % 3 # 03 06%# 3 / $ $ / 0&$ 3 % // 0 /# / , 3 !603 / %3 / +-

/ 0 /7 03 ## #0 ,% 8- )3 &33 0 8 / &%#: &$(# 3 &63 &6/ : /0 &* 63 0 %0 & 6$ % (/ 0 % & " $6 6/3 / % 03&/:+ &$ & 3 /& " /3 0 03 $ 3 3& &63 1 <<< : /0 &# % / &#& 030 # 7 03&% /3 30 &6% % 3 / 0 /7 $ : '<< <<< : /0 &# &63 5 <<< : /0 & 3 & " & $&7 3& 3 / 8 3 3 / # 7 03& "+ 6/&( % ( &% / /$ /0 /&6 3 & 30 8 % 3 :

DOWN IN THE VALLEY. The 34 Cape mountain zebras in the reserve graze mostly in the Mooiberg valley. You can see springbok, gemsbok and ostrich too. settled here later and for almost 200 years large parts of Bakkrans, especially the Mooiberg valley, were used for pasture. You can still see several ruins: cooking screens, ovens, kraals and houses. In the Mooiberg valley there is even a 120-year-old threshing floor from the days when donkeys were used to thresh the rye. The Leopard Hiking Trail is an easy trail that starts next to the cottages and takes about 3 hours to complete if you walk slowly. We walk through a kloof where leopards are sometimes spotted. Arrie is an excellent tracker and has found leopard spoor here a few times. “You see the spoor, but never the cat,� he says. “Who knows? Maybe one is watching us right now.� www.gomag.co.za

Arrie laid out the trail through the kloof himself and stacked the stone beacons to guide hikers. The philosophy at Bakkrans is to touch the earth lightly – leave as little evidence of human presence as possible – so there are no pathways, signs or footprints painted on the trail, just the cairns. After a few hundred metres we come across an old “leopard cage� built of stone that shepherds and farmers once used to catch leopards and brown hyenas. We’re moving deeper and deeper into the kloof. It feels like a canyon with the high sandstone cliffs towering above us on either side. About an hour later we reach one of the “Du Preez houses� at the end of the kloof. The Du Preez family, who were bywoners, lived here for many years until about 1950.

The two houses have both been restored to give an idea of how these subsistence farmers made a living. Two mountain zebras look up as we walk past them. A bit further the trail joins up with a jeep track and follows a wide loop back to the stone cottages.

“It just keeps on being beautiful� If you’re hot from walking, head for the pool a few hundred metres from the cottages. It’s at the foot of a waterfall. Unfortunately the waterfall only flows in winter, but the underground pipes ensure that there’s always water in the pool. It’s a special swimming spot: You’re almost on the edge of the cliff, surrounded by high > GO! March 2011 95

5 ' 58)' %" 5 ' %))$"' );' $%)) .

8 8 4'))' 44" +" $5 95 9+ "' "5

' ): 4 ' 4": 5 8) %))$)98 )4 :" ; ) 8 ))" 4 : %% =. 44" ' ; ;)4$! 45 9"%8 8 "5 # + 84 $ )98 " 8 = 45 ) = ' . ' ; 4 ; +9%% ): 4 ' 4 8 %))$! )98 "5 %% 1 44" 5 52. 3: 5 ' ; 9' )4 88 % % ' 5 + 5 "' &= 8"& "' %9 "' 8 %% = ) 5)% 8")' )985" 4 ! "' 8 ' 8 )4)' )4) 4 8 4 "' '> '" ' ' 8 %% =)9 8 "5 ))" 4 : %% = "5 4" 8 9+ 8 4 . 58 ' )' )9% 4 ;"8 8 +% "' 4 %); & . ' % 5& %%. 44 9<35 % ): 45 "' 8 ;"' ;"8 "85 ;"' 5 5+% = ;" )+ '. ))" 4 ' '' 8#" 5$%)) ; 4 ; 3%% ) 8)&)44); 8) 5 4) $ 48 4"5 9+ 4)55 8 : %% =. 44" "5 58 ' "' )' 4) $ ; & 84 5 ; =. &958 : 5 ' 8 "5 :" ; 8 )95 ' 8"& 5. > 5 "'8) 8 "58 ' "' 8 "4 8")' ) 9++ 48 % ' 5 =5 /9" 8%= 8) "&5 % 1 8 #958 $ +5 )' "' 98" 9% 4 .2

4 4 5 ' "&& '5 )%% 8")' ) 4) $ 48. ' 4 8 $$4 '5 8 4 4 4 8 < &+% 5 8 8 +" 8 8 4 % 8")'5 "+ 8 8 8 458 "' "8 '85 ) 8 4 ;"8 8 5+"4! "89 % ;)4% 8 '"& %5 ' 8 % ' 5 + . 8 "5 5= 8) 4 8 " ): 8 4 " % + ; 4 =)9 ' 5 4) $ 48 4)& " 4 '8 + 4") 5. " % ' ; 5 +4) %= + "'8 = 95 & ' 48"58 8 )95 ' 5 ) = 45 )6 8 )85 ' ' 4+4"'85 %)' 8) 8 8"& ) 8 )"$ )"6 ' 8 8 1* ( 2 ;4"88 ' "' ; "8 %"& ; 5 = 94)+ ' 5 88% 4.

<8 44" 4": 5 95 8) '' 8#" 5$%)) ; 4 8 4 35 : ;"8 % 4 '9& 4 ) + "'8"' 5. ' 8 ; = 8 4 ; "% 4":"' );' 8) 8 ))4 ) 8 ))" 4 : %% = ; 5 4 5 ) 5+4"' )$ &5 )$ ' )584" . ; %$ 8 % 58 ; & 84 5 8) 8 : . & '= + "'8"' 5 "' %9 > 4 ' % + '8 , ' =)9 %" : 8 4 ; 4 )' % + '85 "' 8 4 4 0- ' % ' ' 94 5 8 8 %))$

%"$ 8 =34 ' "' )4 ) 8"' . 5 5"8 %))$"' 8 8 4) $ 48 8 % ' ! 5 + 5 ) 8 + 58 8;) =5 5 8 4)9 &= &"' 8 ))" 4 : %% = 8 4 8 4)) 8 :" ; ) 8 $%)) 4)& 8 +))%... 8 "'$ ) 8 ;)4 5 ) 4)& '8" +) 8 "%%" & )4 5;)48 ; ) %" : 8 8 & 4 %= = 8 "'$"' )98 48 "' % ' 5 + 5 )9% 5 + "5 "%= +4) % &5 1 8 8 "5 &)& '8 ; ' & '= ) 8 5 % ' 5 + 5 4 ) 8"' )4 &= &"' % " '#)=& '8 "' 4 8"' 8 8 + 4 +5 5 4 = "' &= %" ;"%% + 55 "' ; " 5 %% ')8 4": 5)& ++"' 55 4)& 8 5 "& 5.2 835 ); % )98 $$4 '5 +% 8 8 58 =5 ;"8 =)9.

" " # " " # " " " " " " # " % $ % " "

% 7 7 .?7 8<., .<< $ 8 2 <% , 77 ,$ 3 % A'<% <A. 8',$* 8 , ',$4 % .<< $ % 8 8 1 7 < <%7..+ A'<% !?8% <.'* < , 8%.A 7 A'<% %.< A < 74 % .++?, * )'< % , '8 ?**C 5?'11 A'<% ?<* 7C , 7. ) 7C , <% 7 68 * 1 A'<% 7 '4 .. '8 8?11*' 4 + + 7 <% < <% 7 68 ,. * <7' '<C .,*C * ,< 7,8 , , * 84 % , ?$?8< , 1< + 7 < 7 $.. A',< 7 7 ', ** <% 7 7 ?<' ?* !.A 784 , 8?++ 7 <% < +1 7 <?7

7 % >E//

, 7'8 <. #E 0 , +.7 ?< C.? , *A C8 ..* .A, ', <% 1..*4 ',< 7 '8 $.. <'+ <. 7 * B 7.?, <% 7 ', <% 7 ' * 1 4 ,.A . < , **84

" $ .? , 7 % ?7 .8& .,< ', ', 8 ,4 77' A'** .+ , < % C.? , 7'@ C.? 7.?, ))7 ,8 < ,. B<7 .8<4

# ))7 ,8 '8 .?< >:E )+ 7.+ 1 .A,4 % 8%.7< 8< 7.?< '8 @' 7 8 7', *& 7 +* < <% C . 88 , 1& ' & 7$ A% 7 C.? <?7, 7'$%< ',<. <% 7 7$ '* 7, 88 7 4 77C ., 8<7 '$%< *.,$ <% '7< 7. ?,<'* C.? $ < <. <% <%7 &A C ',< 78 <'., < <(' 87'@' 74 ?7 .8 .,< ', 2 , <% ))7 ,8 . 3 '8 # )+ ?7<% 7 *.,$ <% 7. <. ?11 7<% *4

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

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.