Chef's Special Vol 73 Autumn 2011 by Rare Medium

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A U T U M N

RIDIN G M ASTER O UT

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HIG H

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O N

T H E

CL ASS — L A M B SQ UAR E

B O O ST L A M B T H E STR OK E

CUT

YO U R

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O N E

M ASTERPIECE

M E AT

CUT

STR EE T

A T

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B O A R D

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W O N D ERS

M O M E N TA R Y — 6:05P M

# 7 3

S H EEP’S

SH O UL D ER

M A STER PIECES S A N D WIC H

J O U R N A L

S T

WIT H

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B A CK :

B O NIN G

H.A.M. CR E D T H E

T H E •

#4992

WIT H M E N U —

M A STER BITE

M A R K

A U S T

SIZE D

B EST

STYLIST

ADDRESS

CONTRIBUTING L e v e l 1, 165 Wa l k e r Stre e t, North Sydney, NSW 2059

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PUBL I SH E D MARC H 2 0 1 1

T h i s p u b l i c at i o n i s p u b l i s h e d b y M e at & L i v e s t o c k Au s t r a l i a L i m i t e d ABN 3 9 0 81 678 3 6 4 ( M LA ). C a r e i s ta k e n t o e n s u r e t h e ac c u r ac y o f i n f o r m at i o n i n t h e p u b l i c at i o n ; h ow e v e r , M LA c a n n o t ac c e p t r e s p o n s i b i l i t y f o r t h e ac c u r ac y o r c o m p l e t e n e s s o f t h e i n f o r m at i o n o r o p i n i o n s c o n ta i n e d i n t h e p u b l i c at i o n . R e a d e r s s h o u l d r e ly o n t h e i r ow n e n q u i r i e s i n m a k i n g d e c i s i o n s c o n c e r n i n g t h e i r i n t e r e s t s . R e p r o d u c t i o n i n w h o l e o r i n pa r t o f t h i s p u b l i c at i o n i s p r o h i b i t e d w i t h o u t t h e p r i o r w r i tt e n c o n s e n t o f M LA . ©2 011.

FOOD

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Nordset by R aleigh Paper

WRITER

THE PAPER STOCK IS ENVIRONMENTALLY RESPONSIBLE PAPERS PRODUCED FROM PEFC CERTIFIED PULP FROM WELL MANAGED FORESTS AND IS ELEMENTAL CHLORINE FREE (ECF).

www.mla.com.au

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WEBSITE

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& chefspecial@mla.com.au

FOODSERVICE MLA PHONE

CO NTACTS: 02 9463 9308

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RIDING HIGH ON THE S H EEP’S B ACK p g. 0 4

MASTER CLASS— L A M B M ASTERPIECE: BONING OUT A SQUARE CUT SHOULDER H.A.M. #4992 p g. 0 8

BOOST YOUR MEAT STREET CRED WITH LAMB MASTERPIECES p g.14

M O MENTARY— 6:05PM WITH MARK BEST p g.4 0

Contents

BITE SIZED p g. 3 8

ON THE MENU— THE SANDWICH BOARD p g.16

Contents THE MASTER STROKE p g. 24

O NE CUT W O N D ERS: LAMB NECK H.A.M. #5020 p g. 2 8

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E D I TO R ' S

N OT E

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DEAR CHEF’S SPECIAL READER,

THIS ISSUE SEES THE LAUNCH OF LA MB M ASTERPIECES; THE N EXT I NSTA L MEN T OF OU R I NCR EDIBLY SUCCESSFUL MASTERPIECES PROGR A M WHICH FOLLOWS CLOSELY ON THE HEELS OF THE BEEF M ASTER PIECES DEBUT IN JUNE LAST YEAR. THE FOODSERVICE LA NDSCAPE WILL NEVER BE THE SA ME AGAIN WITH CHEFS ACROSS AUSTR ALI A GR ABBING THE BULL BY THE HOR NS (OOPS, MIND THE IDIOM) A ND EMBR ACING BOL AR BLADES, BRISKETS, FLANKS AND FLAT IRONS AND PUTTING THEM ON THEIR MENUS. THESE CUTS ARE NOW COMMONPL ACE ON THE FE ATU R E PAGES OF OU R LE A DI NG F OOD M AG A ZI N ES MONTH AFTER MONTH, CHECK OUT A RESTUAR ANT SUCCESS STORY, A N DY BA LL OF BEL MON DO, ON PAGE 24.

TO CELEBR ATE THE LAUNCH OF LA MB M ASTERPIECES T H IS AU TU M N W E H AV E I NCLU DED A SPECI A L SN E A K PREVIEW OF ONE OF THE CUTS, THE FOREQUARTER; W ITH A SHOU LDER FE ATU R E I N M A STERCL A SS (PAGE 8), T H E N ECK I N "ON T H E M E N U " ( PAGE 16) A N D "ON E CU T WON DER S" (PAGE 28). L A MB MI NCE A LSO SHI N ES I N THE SHEPHER D’S K NISH, A WA R M SA N DW ICH I NSPIR ED BY THE JEW ISH SNACK, JUST IN TIME FOR THOSE AUTUMN LUNCH BOARDS.

READ ON MY FLEISCHMEISTER IN THE MAKING, CON NAUGH.

P. S . W I T H A N E W Y E A R C O M E S A N E W F O O D FA D , M OV E M E N T, TR EN D, R AGE… W H AT EV ER YOU 'D LIK E TO C A LL IT. CHECK OU T PAGE 42 F OR M Y LIST OF THE HOT TEST CU T TI NG EDGE CU LI N A RY CR A Z E S W E H AV E T O L OOK F ORWA R D T O I N 2011 A ND BEYOND.

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F E AT U R E

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P aul and K ylie W alton of W urrook S uperfine P rime produce a slow maturing , fine grained merino meat on their property , W urrook , situated 1 5 0 kilometres west of M elbourne ’ s C B D . T hey invited C hef ’ s S pecial onto their property to talk about their S uperfine P rime M E R I N O meat .

O S

Traditionally Superfine Merino sheep aren’t produced for meat; they’re a wool producing animal. What made you decide to use the breed for meat production?

N H B

It is rare for Australian consumers to be served meat from Merino lambs which are specifically bred for the wool industry, however; improvements in production mean that Merino sheepmeat may become more common. Prime lamb, which is generally what is used in the foodservice sector are not of pure Merino breeding; they are typically bred by joining a first cross ewe (Merino crossed with a Border Leister) and a meat breed ram such as a Suffolk or a Poll Dorset, lambs produced this way rely on hybrid vigour to achieve maximum weight gain.

With lamb so ably produced and popular amongst consumers, the consumption of the more mellow and mature sheepmeat has, in a mainstream sense, become a thing of the past. However with Australian chefs seeking unique stories of provenance, production

At Wurrook all of our sheep are pure Merino. Our Wurrook Superfine Prime brand utilises a unique 150 year old Wurrook bloodline. Our bloodline and our environmental conditions allow us to have a dual purpose production system here at Wurrook- producing wool and meat from Superfine Merino sheep. We find the quality of our meat is refflective of the quality of our wool- we produce award winning superfine wool so the grain of our meat is also delicate and fine. We allow our animals two years to mature slowly on our natural grasslands so the meat has a longer time to develop its fflavours and balances. It’s a lovely sweet red meat that has a distinct fflavour.

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Paul and Kylie Walton with an award winning ram.

and breeding to differentiate their menus and provide their customers with a story, a renaissance of the more mature sheepmeat is now occurring. The production of consistent quality product, within the sheepmeat category, is starting to bring it back onto menus.

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F E AT U R E

Can you tell us a little about how you produce the Superfine Prime meat? Our farm is situated between Ballarat, Geelong and Colac, on the Western Plains of Victoria, a high rainfall region known for its fresh, clean air. The property consists of 7,000 acres of which about 300 acres is cropped with cereal crops and the remaining is for grazing. Our fflock is currently 20,000 Wurrook Superfine Merinos which have been producing some of the best superfine wool in the world. Our family has been producing award winning wool here for over 150 years. For generations the family has been eating our Merino meat but we started to produce Superfine Prime meat specifically for market around 5 years ago. Our Superfine Merinos are slowly matured for two years on the land, during this time they produce the award winning superfine wool before they are finished on a natural blend of GM free grains to produce

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a rich, sweet fflavoured, fine-grained meat. We like to control all aspects of the production so we grow the grain on our property as well. The grain finishing is more for the fflavour rather than consistency. Our welfare standards and low-stress handling of our sheep is integral to the production of Wurrook Superfine Prime. We maintain complete supply chain management from paddock to plate so the chef knows where the product has come from, what it has been eating and how it has been treated. This includes a strict protocol of no growth hormones and no antibiotics. Unlike Prime lambs, which are bred to grow out quickly, the Superfine Merino is a naturally slower maturing breed of sheep. That’s why the age at which we process our Merinos is two years old. Every sheep produced for meat is processed at two years old, no exceptions; we’re proud of our consistency. The sheepmeat category Wurrook

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How do you cook Superfine Prime?

is classified in under AUSMEAT system is either “Hogget” or “Mutton”, however these classifications conjure up negative connotations with chefs. Our dedicated production system means we’re a long way better than standard ‘Mutton’ which can be anything up to seven years old and of any breed which is why we market our product under the Wurrook Superfine Prime brand.

We advocate slow cooking of our meat; however with the fine grain of our product you can grill some cuts and demand for the grilling cuts such as cutlet and backstrap is high. It’s a sweet meat because of its natural sugars. The sweetness is a good indication that our animals are really well looked after. We also know there is a beautiful balance of fat and structure through the meat so it is just perfect for foodservice operators.

Allowing our Superfine Merinos to naturally mature for two years on the land has dual benefits. One being they will produce two ffleeces of award winning superfine Merino wool and the other is that it allows time for the natural fflavour and quality of the meat to develop.

Chef Jake Nicholson of Circa, The Prince in Melbourne has a signature dish using our product. It’s a 48 hour Superfine Prime shoulder served with broccolini, roasted peppers, olives, skordalia. It is sous-vide for the 48 hours and crisped up on a hot With our Merinos being a self replacing, pure breed and the meat and wool from them of such high quality, pan before serving. It’s absolutely delicious and is you won’t get a much better example of sustainability. a total sell-out when it is on the menu. Even though there are the obvious seasonal changes to our pastures we have found that we are able to ensure the consistency of the meat’s fflavour by supplementing the Merinos’ diet for two weeks prior to processing with cereal grains grown on our farm. After the Merinos are processed we hang them for two weeks to increase tenderness through the aging process. Our client’s needs, in terms of cuts and weights, will determine where Wurrook product ends up. It’s available both at retail and restaurants in Victoria and we’ll be pushing into the other states soon.

To do a shoulder in a more conventional way a 1-2kg shoulder will take about 2-3 hours. The shoulder is made up of several working muscles but when cooked properly the fflavour and tenderness can far exceed other cuts. The shoulder is a hard working part of the sheep so it needs time to tenderise whilst cooking. The low and slow method is the best approach for this cut. Our philosophy here at Wurrook is simple, we aim to be the best at whatever we do. If we strive to achieve that goal there will always be a market for our wool and sheepmeat products.

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M A S T E R

C L A S S

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LAMB MASTERPIECE — BONING OUT A SQUARE CUT SHOULDER H.A.M n O . 4992

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A Square Cut Shoulder is prepared from a forequarter of lamb by removing the Neck, the Breast and the Fore Shank. The deboned Square Cut Shoulder (H.A.M. #5050) is prepared by the removal of all the bones, cartilage and sinew, the ligamentum nuchae (Paddy Whack) and lymph node gland. The Shoulder is finished by being rolled and tied or netted.

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M A S T E R

C L A S S

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2 3 4

Remove the rib bones by following the line of the bones beside the meat.

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Cut along the vertebra with your knife and completely remove the spine and the breast plate from the shoulder.

5 7

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M A S T E R

C L A S S

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Trim off paddy whack.

Trim any excess fat.

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Find the top of the scapular bone with your knife,

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M A S T E R

C L A S S

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Peel the meat back off the bone without slicing through the muscle.

15 16

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Mark around the bone with the tip of your knife to loosen.

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Push down on the scapular your hand to joint cup at

M A S T E R

C L A S S

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the tip of bone with reveal the the top.

18 Slide your knife between the bones to release. Mark around the top of the bone and along the side to loosen the meat off the bone. Pull the scapular bone off the meat using your hand.

19 19 20 21

Make a cut through the meat, against the shoulder bone to reveal the humerus and use your knife to peel the meat from the bone.

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M A S T E R

C L A S S

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Remove the lymph node & and other glands.

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Roll up the shoulder and net or truss using string.

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Trim any excess fat and make a cut in the flap of meat, leaving it attached. Fold into a roll.

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Boost your MEAT STREET cred with Lamb MASTERPIECES +++++ for more information on the lamb masterpieces, or to attend a masterclass in your state, contact your state’s business development manager or email chefspecial@mla.com.au

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F E AT U R E

We're taking our message to the streets. We're debunking the myth that lamb is only for special occasions or big wallets. Lamb is special, there's no doubt about that, but the occasion doesn't have to be. There is nothing like the gorgeous smell of roasting lamb or the addictive taste of juicy lamb kebabs. Lamb is for ever yday and for all people. It 's a core ingredient celebrated by many cuisines; it 's a food that brings people together. It can be used in a dish that is elegantly simple or in a riot of flavours where it definitely holds its own. Lamb is made up of more than backstrap and cutlets; and we want to shine a spotlight on these equally fantastic “other" cuts, cuts we call the Masterpieces. In this next Masterpiece edition, we've focused on the forequarter, ribs, rump and the great all-rounder, mince. We selected these cuts after reviewing a range of national and international cuisine st yles and trends. We've researched preparation techniques and flavour combinations and with the help of some of Australia's leading chefs showcased a number of cuisine st yles proven to transform these ever yday cuts into menu Masterpieces. According to Claire Tindale, the Trade Projects Executive at Meat & Livestock Australia, “One of the virtues of lamb is that the meat lends itself to a myriad of flavours. “So many cuisines use lamb” she says. She lists the countries from which Masterpiece recipes will be drawn. “Morocco, Syria, Iran, Greece, France, Italy, Spain… Even Japan has been using more lamb. The Koreans are using ribs with a red bean paste that includes chilli, and honey, for lovely sticky ribs to as a bar snack, or a tapas plate.” As with the beef Masterpieces, there will be a portfolio of recipes for chefs to use and be inspired by. The humblest Masterpiece cut of all shows itself extremely versatile. Lamb mince has been a surprising success in the United States – surprising because lamb is not a popular meat there. But when lamb becomes a mini-hamburger, with added Latino flavours in the form of a

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chipotle mayonnaise, it’s a huge success. Those bite-size burgers are better known throughout their countr y of origin as Sliders. Lamb mince is a particularly popular meat in many Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Balkan countries, where for home cooks it is a really economical meat. Lamb mince is a low cost ingredient partly due to its abilit y to be ‘stretched’ by other ingredients and still keep its identit y. For example, a little lamb mince mixed with cooked onions, rice, herbs and spices is an excellent filling for cabbage or vine leaves, for hollowed-out tomatoes, zucchini, onions, peppers, and baby eggplant; concepts that translate well into our foodser vice sector. Stuffed vegetables or leaves can be ser ved individually, as little appetisers, or as an entrée. Middle Eastern cooker y offers a treasure-house of minced lamb recipes, including chiche barak, a meat-filled fried dumpling that is ser ved with rice and herbed yoghurt. The dumpling is found throughout the Middle East, but seems most popular in Lebanon and Syria. The forequarter – which breaks down into the neck, the shoulder, ribs and the shoulder rack – lends itself to slow cooking, per fect for dishes in cooler months. The braised meat can be ser ved as is, or shredded and used in dumplings, salads, or even glamorous heart y sandwiches. It can also be shaped and coated in breadcrumbs. “Think duo,” advises Claire, who suggests using a combination of cuts on a plate – a single lamb cutlet, perhaps, accompanied by something made from the neck or the shoulder. “A number of chefs are already seeing the cost benefits of this duo concept as well as the seeing the dish as chance to show some creativit y and flair”. These Masterpieces work as well for summer months as for autumn and winter. In fact some of the best Basque countr y dishes team lamb with summer vegetables such as peppers and tomatoes. These flavours work well with lamb rump, or a combination of rump and shoulder. “Two Masterpiece cuts on a plate look and sound expensive, but are happily economical,” says Claire, ”That’s a great way to keep lamb on your menu and your customers coming back for more!”

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O N

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M E N U

The Sandwich

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In the recent USA National Restaurant Association's Chef Survey: What’s Hot in 2010/2011 the majority of chefs agreed that gourmet sandwiches are a hot trend. Australian chefs have recognised the rise of the humble sandwich with Panini bars opening up

high

most

calibre

York-style

capital chefs

cities

and

serving

New

sandwich

their

restaurants during the lunch rush. The

Summit’s

opened

Michael New

York

Moore

has

deli-style

sandwich shop in the new Westfield’s

andwich Board shopping joined

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O N

centre, shortly

North’s

T H E

M E N U

Sydney; after

burger

•

joint

was

Justin

late

2010. With the days of long power lunches chefs

gone, an

quality the

sandwiches

opportunity ‘fast

margin.

The

food’

potential

the

offer serve

that make

has more

recipes

represent inspiration for a range of

sectors

club

including

(cafe

and

café,

deli

pub,

outlets),

restaurant lunch menus, corporate catering,

and

the

list

goes

on…

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M E N U

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Osso bucco sambo with relish Make around 8 sandwiches depending on your roll size

Relish: 4-5 celery stalks, sliced into 1cm pieces 3-4 mixture of red, yellow and green capsicums chopped 2 tblsps olive oil 1 tblsp tomato paste 1/3 cup red wine vinegar 1/3 cup brown sugar

Osso bucco confit: 1.5kg osso bucco 2 garlic cloves crushed Chilli flakes for heat 1 tsp of cinnamon, Salt & pepper Bacon fat to cover

Method: Sauté celery and capsicum in the olive oil over a medium heat. Season with salt. Once soften, add tomato paste and cook until it starts to caramelise. Add the vinegar and sugar and cook, stirring often, for 15 minutes or until the relish thickens.

Method: Marinade the osso bucco for 24 hours in the garlic, chilli and cinnamon. Preheat oven to 120 degrees. Place meat in heavy based saucepan, cover with bacon fat and seal tightly with oven paper and foil. Cook for 10 hours or until the meat falls from the bones. Scrape off excess fat and take meat off the bones.

To serve: 8 soft white rolls Serve osso bucco warm, in the roll with a spoonful of relish. –

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The R achel • •

The Rachel is a twist on the famous New York Reuben. Here we’ve made the sandwich with lamb pastrami; the lamb pastrami is less salty and more subtly flavoured than the original.

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Method:

1.5kg lamb shoulder boned Brine: 3.5 litres of water 3/4 cups salt 1 cup brown sugar 1/4 cup pink salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon fennel 1 teaspoon coriander 1 teaspoon clove 1 teaspoon cumin 6 cloves garlic 1/2 cup honey 2 sprigs rosemary

Bring all those ingredients to a boil and then chill completely. After it is cold, strain out the spices and immerse the shoulder in the liquid. Keep refrigerated. After 3 days, remove the shoulder. Crush 1 tablespoon each of black pepper, coriander and fennel; rub the spices into the lamb, covering it completely. Using a smoke box, smoke the shoulder at 150-180°C until the internal temperature of the lamb reaches 145°C. This takes about 8 hours. Set your oven to 280°C. Cover the bottom of a deep pan with an inch of water; place a bowl or a rack in the bottom of the pan so the lamb can sit above the liquid. Set the lamb on a rack, cover the pan tightly with tin foil and cook for 3 hours. When cool, slice thinly.

S A N D W I CH :

2 slices rye bread 2 tablespoons Thousand Island dressing 2 thin slices Swiss cheese 1/4 cup creamy coleslaw 4-5 pieces of thinly sliced lamb pastrami

Method: Spread the Thousand Island dressing on one side of each of the slices of rye bread. Place one slice of the Swiss cheese over the Thousand Island dressing. On one slice of bread, spoon the coleslaw over the Swiss cheese. Top the coleslaw with the pastrami. Heat your griddle or skillet over medium heat. Place the bread in the skillet and cook for several minutes until browned. Carefully flip the sandwich to allow the other side to cook. Cook until warmed through. Slice and serve.

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The Shepherdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Knish The Knish For the dough filling 1 kilo of boiling potatoes, peeled and quartered 1/4 cup milk 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 onions, chopped 3/4 cup finely chopped mushrooms 1 teaspoon salt, Freshly ground black pepper For the dough 2 eggs 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1/2 cup water 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 egg beaten lightly with 1 tablespoon water for egg wash

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Method: Make the filling: Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes and cook until tender. Drain and place in a large bowl. Add the milk and mash until smooth. Set aside. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sweat the onions and mushrooms and season well. Let cool slightly. Add to the potatoes and stir to combine. Set aside. Make the dough: Place the eggs, oil, water, and salt in a large bowl and stir to combine. Add the flour gradually, stirring first with a spoon and then working the mixture with your hands, until it is fully combined. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead just until smooth, adding flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking. Form the dough into a ball. Cover with a towel and let rest for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Lightly grease a baking sheet or line it with parchment paper.

M E N U

The Shepherd’s meatloaf 2 slices white sandwich bread, torn into small pieces 400gms lamb mince 1 large egg 4 cloves garlic chopped 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves Salt and black pepper 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar Method: Heat oven to 200°C. In a large bowl, combine the bread and 3 tablespoons water. Add the lamb, egg, half the garlic, half the thyme, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Place the mixture on a foil-lined baking sheet and shape into a loaf. Bake, brushing with the balsamic vinegar several times during cooking, until cooked through 30 to 35 minutes. Let rest at least 5 minutes before slicing. To Serve Halve a knish using a bread knife. Place a piece of the shepherds’ meatloaf in the middle and warm through in a toaster or sandwich press. Serve with a tomato or BBQ sauce.

Make the knishes: On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out into a large rectangle. Cut the dough in half lengthwise, creating 2 rectangles each 35 cm x 13cm. Divide the filling along one half of the dough, leaving enough space in between each mound to slice and separate the individual Knishes. Place the other piece of dough on top, press the edges together and push down on the top to flatten the rolls slightly. Place the rolls, seam side down, on the prepared baking sheet and brush the tops with the egg wash. Bake until the dough is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes.

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There have been big cha ng es in A ndy Ba ll’s st yle of cook ing since he joined Sydney ’s iconic Belmondo rest aur a nt t wo yea r s ag o. The English-bor n chef ha s a back g round in t he five - st a r hotels of L ondon a nd Michelinst a r red rest aur a nt s in New York before he took t he job of head chef at Belmondo. At Cla r idg e’s a nd The R it z in L ondon, he wa s using Aberdeen A ng us beef. “ The product s in Aust r a lia a re a s g ood a s t he UK , but t here’s more of t hat beaut if ul Wag y u beef here,” say s A ndy when a sked about his beef opt ions in Aust r a lia . “ The dif ference in Aust r a lia is t he g reater r a ng e of beef cut s ava ilable,” say s A ndy. “I ca me from a world of beef eye fillet a nd sirloin, in five st a r hotels , it is top - end [pr ime] cut s only,” he expla ins . “Occa siona lly we mig ht do a la mb nava r in for lunch.”

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THE

Master St

Chef’s Specia talks masterpie with award winnin Andy Ball, Belmo

t r oke

al eces ng Chef o n d o.

But at Belmondo, t he hig hlig ht s on t he menu a re t he Ma ster piece cut s – beef cheek s , oy ster blade a nd la mb shoulder. They a re necessa r y choices to keep food cost s in check a llow ing t he rest aur a nt to of fer t wo cour ses for $55. “ There’s not hing “seconda r y ” about t hem,” say s A ndy when quest ioned, “ They require more ef for t in t he k itchen,” he says: “ t he invest ment is made in t he for m of prepa r at ion a nd imag inat ion.”

Preparation and imagination are part of Andy’s history. He was UK Chef of the Year in 2007, and won the prestigious William Heptinstall award in the same year. That award enabled him to travel to the US and work with Daniel Boulud at Daniel’s and Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York. Earlier in the decade, he had twice been selected to compete alongside Claridge’s head chefs in the demanding Bocuse D’Or culinary competition in France. W hat br ought him to Aust r a lia wa s t he oppor t unit y to ma ke his ma rk a s a head chef. His Aust r a lia n-bor n w ife must have weig hted t he decision ma k ing too. Diner s obv iously respond to t he way he t ack les Ma ster piece cut s . He t a lk s about t he 20 0 beef cheek s he cooked dur ing t he week , a nd t he 45 la mb shoulder s (he used to ma ke 250 por t ions). A s he point s out , la mb shoulder comes in a ha lf t he cost of a la mb back st r ap – “ That ’s $4 per por t ion instead of $8.” On his menu at t he t ime he spoke to Chef ’s Specia l wa s slow- cooked la mb shoulder w it h pea a nd mint r isot to w it h a ca r a melised g a rlic a nd honey puree . For a n Eng lish-bor n chef, t he combinat ion of la mb, pea s a nd mint is a s cla ssic a s r oa st beef a nd York shire pudding. One of t he most popula r dishes on t he menu is one of t he Beef Ma ster pieces: t he Flat Ir on stea k . He buy s t he f ull oy ster blade; t he k itchen tea m prepa res t he stea k . “It ’s not t hat ha rd to cut a Flat Ir on stea k ,” he say s . “Not once you’ve done it a few t imes . A nd it g ives t he g uy s in t he k itchen more pr oduct k nowledg e a nd k nife sk ills .” The lower cost s of t he Ma ster piece cut s such a s t he Flat Ir on stea k g ive diner s a pa r t icula r bonus . L ower meat cost s mea n it is possible to spend more on veg et able accompa niment s or purcha se a more specia l breeds such a s Wag y u a nd st ill keep w it hin budg et . Is t here a ny t hing he misses about culina r y life in t he UK ? “I miss some of t he Eng lish Cha nnel fish,” he confesses . Ot her w ise , t hing s couldn’t be bet ter. He a nd his w ife have a one -yea r - old daug hter. “ We’re a s happy a s ca n be .” –

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Andy’s G r i l l e d Fl a t Iron stea k w i t h h e r b m a s h, caramel i z e d o n i o n , r o ast Swiss b r o w n s a n d red win e j u s Ser ves 4 4 x 180gms Flat Iron steaks cut from the oyster blade 2 large brown onions, peeled and sliced very finely 4 large royal blue potatoes, peeled and cut in half 4 large Swiss brown mushrooms, large pinch of chopped parsley, olive oil, salt and pepper, 100gms salted butter 100 ml pure cream, 250ml veal jus 100 ml red wine 2 eschallots, peeled and chopped 1 clove garlic , peeled and chopped 1 small sprig of thyme

Sea son t he Flat Iron stea k s w it h sa lt a nd pepper a nd t hen cook on a hot g r ill to desired temper at ure.

To ma ke t he red w ine jus , ca r a meli ze a ny t r imming s t hat you have fr om t he oy ster blade in a heav y ba sed pa n a nd t hen add t he escha llot s a nd t he g a rlic . Add t he t hy me a nd t hen t he red w ine a nd reduce t he red w ine f ully t ill it is s y r upy. Add t he vea l jus , br ing to t he simmer a nd sk im of f a ny fat . Reduce t he jus by ½ a nd t hen pa ss t hr oug h a fine chinois . Cor rect t he sea soning a nd consistenc y.

Cook t he sliced onions in a heav y ba sed pa n on medium heat w it h a lit t le olive oil a nd a k nob of but ter. Keep t he onions mov ing in t he pa n t ill t hey have cooked dow n a nd sof tened. Cont inue to cook t he onions unt il t hey ca r a meli ze . They should be a nice g olden brow n before you remove t hem from t he pa n. Cook t he pot atoes in boiling sa lted water a nd when cooked, dr a in. Pa ss t hroug h a moulis a nd t hen push t hr oug h a fine sieve . Mi x in t he cold but ter a nd hot crea m using a r ubber spat ula , do not over mi x . Sea son to t a ste . Place t he Sw iss brow n mushr ooms in a sma ll roa st ing t r ay a nd dr i zzle w it h olive oil. Sea son w it h sa lt a nd pepper a nd t hen roa st in t he oven for appr ox 5 minutes .

Mi x t he pa r sley into t he finished ma sh a nd t hen pipe onto t he middle of t he plate , place t he Sw iss br ow n mushr oom next to t he ma sh a nd place a quenelle of t he ca r a meli zed onions opposite . Posit ion t he g r illed Flat Ir on stea k on t he ma sh a nd t hen dr i zzle t he jus a r ound t he plate .

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the lamb neck is prepared from a lamb carcase by a cut through and between the 3rd and 4th vertebrae. fat and the outer edges of the neck may be trimmed as required.

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SERVES

Duo of A ngus gr a i n f ed rost bi f f and lamb neck

4kg lamb neck, trimmed and bone removed 5kg Angus grain fed eye rump side, trussed 550g carrot 150g celery 450g red onion 5L Fonds de veau 100g tomato trimmings 1pc bay leaf 200g flour 220g butter, unsalted 50mL corn oil 600g tomato, peeled and diced 50g sugar 30mL red wine vinegar 45g basil, finely sliced 270mL olive oil 1kg broccoli florets, roughly cut into smallpieces

400 cream 500g leek, sliced 300g milk 1.1L water 5g chicken stock cube 210g garlic 1kg mashed potato 500g button mushrooms, diced 15 sheets puff pastry 50g demi glace 5g thyme 1/2 lemon 2g parsley, finely sliced 300g broccoli stems, diced Salt Black peppercorns White peppercorns

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Recipe from S w i ss 么 t e l t h e S t am f o r d , Singapore group

MLA Black Box Culinary Challenge: Global Grand Final Round 4 Dubai, May 2008

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METHOD:

Gâteau of lamb Neck: 1. Season the prepared lamb neck with salt and black pepper and dust with flour. Brown this with some oil and set aside. 2. Sweat a mirepoix of 200g carrot, and 100g each of red onion and celery. Add the bay leaf and the Fonds de Veau. 3. Allow this to boil before adding the lamb neck, then place in the oven at 120°C for approximately an hour and a half. 4. Once cooked, shred the lamb neck, toss with the tomato trimmings, then place in a tray using a heavy object to press it down. Cut this into the desired shape once set.

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Tomato Fondue: 1. Place the peeled and diced tomato in a pot with sugar, red wine vinegar, and basil. 2. Let this mixture cook slowly until soft, then finish with around 20ml olive oil.

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Thyme Jus: 1. Sweat a mirepoix of diced carrot, celery and red onion (50g of each), along with 10g sliced garlic, black peppercorns and thyme. 2. Add 1 litre of water and the demi glace before reducing to reach the desired jus consistency. 3. Strain this mixture and finish with cold butter and lemon juice.

Broccoli Mousseline: 1. Combine the broccoli florets, 200ml cream, salt and pepper and cook until soft. 2. Puree this to reach a smooth consistency then pass through a fine strainer. 3. Monte with some cold, unsalted butter. Foamy Leek: 1. Sweat the sliced leek, then add 100ml each of milk, cream and water, as well as the chicken stock cube, and salt and pepper to taste. 2. Reduce this mixture, then puree until fine and pass through a fine strainer. 3. Monte with some unsalted butter, then "whizz" until foamy. Roasted Angus Rostbiff: 1. Season the eye rump side with salt and black pepper. 2. Sear the eye rump side until golden brown, then cook in the oven at 120°C for approximately 20 minutes. 3. Remove the butchers twine and cut into fillet sizes.

Red Onion and Garlic Mash: 1. Cook 100g sliced garlic and 200g diced red onion until soft. 2. Puree until fine, and then fold in parsley and 10g unsalted butter. Adjust seasoning to taste. Vegetables: 1. Blanch 300g diced broccoli stems and 300g diced carrot in salted, boiling water. 2. Sauté with butter and add seasoning to taste. TO SERVE:

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Potato and mushroom 'Papillote': 1. Sauté the button mushrooms and set these aside, then boil 200ml milk and 100ml cream before gradually adding the mashed potato powder. 2. Mix in the sautéed mushroom and 50g unsalted butter, and adjust the seasoning to taste. 3. Spread this evenly onto a tray and chill. Once hardened, cut into small rectangular blocks. 4. Lay the puff pastry and brush with olive oil, do this for 3 layers. 5. Roll the puff pastry over the potato blacks and brush again with olive oil, then bake in the oven until golden brown.

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Using the parts of the dish, style plate as desired.

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Sourced from a kind c h e f i n N EW YO R K CITY (Meat & Livestock A u s t ra l i a , U S A )

SERVES

2 Roa sted lamb neck fi llet and mi nted mus hy pea s For the L A MB: 1 – 2 lamb neck fillets 2 cloves of garlic 1 tablespoon of olive oil 8 sage leaves Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper For the min ted m u sh y p e as : 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 bunch spring onions, chopped 1 handful fresh mint leaves 1 pound (500 grams) frozen peas 2 large knobs butter Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

METHOD:

For the lamb, put the garlic, olive oil, seasonings and sage leaves into a blender and chop to a rough “paste”, smear it all over the lamb fillets and leave to marinate until you need to cook them. Place in a ziplock bag and Sous Vide for 6-8 hours at 60 degrees. Once cool, slice and crisp up on all sides. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a pan and add the chopped onions, mint, and peas. Cover and leave for a few minutes to steam. Add butter and mash with a potato masher, season to taste and rest in a warm place.

TO SERVE:

Spoon minted mushy peas onto a warm plate or bowl. Slice the lamb and place on top, pour any roasting juices over the lamb for extra flavour.

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Th i s i s a v e r y s i m p l e d i sh . Th e e n d r e s u l t

d e p e n d s o n t h e q u a l i t y o f y o u r mas t e r s t o c k .

SERVES

(e nt r é e s)

Twice cooked lamb neck with or ange AN D sta r anise , ci nnamon s piced sweet potato c h e f g r e g f arnan

The Old Brewery Perth WA

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Lamb Neck: Seal lamb neck in pan until brown on all sides. Place in braising dish and cover with master stock. Put in oven on 170˚C for 3 hours or until meat comes away from the bone. When cooked, remove from stock and allow to cool. When at room temperature, carefully remove meat from the bone, keeping the meat intact and then cut in two. Refrigerate until firm or set.

2 whole lamb necks. (Skin on and bone in) 500g sweet potato peeled 1 star anise pod 2 cinnamon quills 2 navel oranges (Zested and segmented) Half a bunch of coriander 100g butter 1L Chinese master stock (Prepare the night before - see recipe below)

Sweet Potato: Steam peeled sweet potato with star anise and cinnamon. When cooked, remove from steamer and separate cinnamon and star anise. Dry cinnamon and star anise in the oven. Remove from oven and blend with mortar and pestle until a smooth powder. In a pot combine sweet potato, star anise and cinnamon powder. Add butter and whisk into a smooth puree.

F o r t h e M as t e r S t o c k : 750mL water 70mL light soy sauce 125mL Chinese cooking wine 50g yellow rock sugar 10g fresh ginger 2 cloves garlic 1 cardamom pod 1 cinnamon stick 5g (1\2 teaspoon) dried mandarin peel 1 whole clove 1 star anise 1/2 teaspoon Sichuan pepper 1/2 teaspoon licorice root 1/2 teaspoon dried chilli 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

Sauce: After braising lamb neck, pass master stock through a fine chinios and add zest of the 2 navel oranges. Bring to the boil then simmer for 5 minutes to infuse flavour. Pass through chinois again. Add orange segments and set aside for serving.

METHOD:

Chinese Master Stock: Handy hint - When making the master stock, bring to the boil then immediately reduce the heat to simmer. Do not allow it to boil continuously.

TO SERVE:

Put all ingredients in a large stockpot and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes to allow the spices to infuse. Allow the stock to cool completely before passing through a chinios. Pour into a clean container. Place the stock in the fridge overnight to intensify the flavors. Refrigerate or freeze until required.

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Place lamb neck in oven at 200 degrees for 5 minutes to reheat. In the centre of a serving bowl place a quenelle of sweet potato puree. Remove lamb neck from oven and place on top of sweet potato. Take orange segments from master stock and place around lamb. Pour the remaining master stock over the lamb. Serve with fresh coriander.

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BITE SIZED The Millard Reaction When temperatures reach 150ºC or higher proteins (amino acids) and carbohydrates (sugars) caramelize into intense flavours and aromas and enhance the appearance of red meat. This browning process is named for the French chemist Louis-Camille Maillard who discovered the process at the start of the 20th century. The Maillard reaction is similar to the process of caramelisation, where carbohydrates, just like sugar, turn brown when heated.

Waste not wasted Feedlots across the country that produce grain fed beef, such as ‘Peechelba’ in Victoria are finding ways to recycle waste and minimise their environmental impact. ‘Peechelba’, run by Gina Lincoln, sells certified organic manure produced by cattle on the property to landscape gardeners, viticulturalists and local gardeners looking for improved soil structure.

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K ey difference in cat tle feeding regimes

Feed Sources Grass Feed Grain stubble after harvesting

Combination of ingredients to meet nutrient requirements grain feed

Native grasses and shurbs

Roughage

Hay

Silage (fermented grass)

Fat

Irrigated and fertilised pastures

Protein

Legume based pastures

Grain

Proportion of time spent on grain Days on Grass

Days on Grain

50-100 days

120-200 days

200+ days

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M O MENTARY

MARK BEST Marque Restaurant, Surry Hills NSW Mark Best’s nose to tail beef degustation 6:05pm 14/10/2010 Marque Restaurant and Meat & Livestock Australia partnered during the recent Sydney International Food Festival to celebrate beef. Guests were guided by the team at the three-hatted Restaurant through a sensory journey of underrated beefs cuts, experiencing a myriad of concepts, colours, temperature and textures. Mark Best’s skill highlighted the versatility of beef in elegant and mind bending dishes and his philosophical approach to food, being to use every-thing, emphasised the relevance of carcase utilisation to the sustainability of meat.

image by stevebrownphotography.com

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Menu from the evening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Silken Tendon with Spring Beans, Peas and Tarragon Curd Vinea Marson, Nebbiolo, 2008 Heathcote, Vic.

Silverside Jerky Bone Marrow with White Nectarine & Fennel

Honeycomb Tripe with Vadouvan, Garlic Potato Sanches Romate, ‘Don Jose’ Oloroso Jerez, Spain

Beef Jelly with Sorrel & Avruga The Story, Arneis, 2010, King Valley, Vic. Pickled Tongue with Asparagus & Black Radish Fontaleoni, Vernaciadi San Giminano, 2009, Tuscany, Italy

Ranger Valley Hanger Steak with Ash & Onions La Pleiade, Shiraz, 2008 Heathcote, Vic.

Beef Tartar with Oyster & Watercress Willow Creek, Pinot Noir, 2007 Mornington Peninsular, Vic.

48 Months aged Comte with Pearl Barley, Rocket & Tea Jam Pomona, Ice Cyder, Orange, N.S.W Coconut Marrow

BBQ Ox Heart with Ox Heart Tomato & Brown Sauce Rosine, Syrah, 2008, Rhone Valley, France

Hay with milk and chickweed Barn Perfume

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Thought of as food our grandparents ate, offals (otherwise known as fancy meats) are back. We can thank food movements such as headto-tail dining and paddockto-plate for getting these soft, rich, spongy tentacled delights off the chopping room floor and back onto our plates. Think crispy tripe; dried fried in smoky and spicy flavours or calf’s liver in white wine and garlic served on fried potatoes. With doilies and grandpa shoes back in fashion, it’s only fitting theses little babies are having their day in the sunshine too.

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Move over Locavores, Hyperlocal is the new ‘it’ kid. Think restaurant gardens, inner-city foraging, in-house smoking and curing DIY butchering. With Chef’s Special Butchery Masterclasses and MLA’s beef, lamb and goat cutting guide DVD (available in March) at your finger tips, if you haven’t already grabbed yourself a beef hindquarter to break down you’re slow off the mark.

Hyperlocal produce

Regional and ethnic cuisines

Offals- The other meat

The Chef’s Guide to What’s Hot in 2011

foods provide a familiar format for mainstream consumers to explore bold new flavours. They also allow established chefs to take their “brand” to the masses without losing credibility in the process. For sandwich inspiration think anything from a New York deli, Sloppy Joes, salted brisket bagel from Beigel Bakery, London or the famous Po Boys of Bourbon Street.

the following eleven trends are the

Butchers are the new rock stars

Gourmet burgers and sandwiches These quintessential comfort

Want Chinese? Then you had better know your east from your west, north and south. Think Shanghai style, Szechuan, Peking and Cantonese to name a few. Continuing the Asian theme, spicy Korean food takes a well earned place at the table thanks to their BBQ obsession, hotpots and addictive pickled cabbage. Vietnamese cuisine is finally getting the recognition it deserves (thank you Luke Nguyen) and for worshippers of all things meat related; South American cuisine is king.

World street food inspired menus These tasty morsels are standard fare in their countries of origin. Here they inspire everything from small plates to canapés and charcuterie. Watch breakfast and lunch menus for an explosion of Asian flavour notes and carriers or treat your tastebuds to the samba while chowing down on Latin American delicacies.

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Wielding a meat cleaver has never been so revered. This year butchers will emerged as the new rock stars of the culinary world. Growing interest in butchering has sprouted classes across the country. Weekend warriors can learn to break down a carcase while rubbing shoulders with the Masters. After years and years of closed doors, butcher shops are starting to open up and in-house butchery is on the rise at restaurants. Rock stars or not, they’ve got chops.

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PG rated food for those mini food connoisseurs. Frozen nuggets and pizzas don’t cut it anymore. The recent wave of mini food critics want fresh, they want flavour and they want to feel included.

Kid’s menus

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Just like kids in a candy store we’re spoilt for choice when it comes to the variety and quality of red meat available in Australia, and don’t we know it! Consumers continue to ask about how their food is produced and they’re looking for the scoop direct from the farmer. Branded meats provide exactly that, the romance of the farm at retail and on the restaurant menu.

Branded meats

Flat iron steak, hanger steak, beef brisket, lamb ribs – just some of the pieces of the puzzle that make up a carcase. So many cuts to choose from, so much flavour, so many creative possibilities – that’s why they are the Masterpieces. Do it yourself or ask your wholesaler or butcher to show off his knife skills.

Newly fabricated cuts of meat& non-loin cuts of meat

2011 food frontiers according to Australia’s only red meat journal, Chef’s Special Magazine:

Degustation menus

Gourmet pub food The rise of micro brews and boutique beer culture signals the era of the gastro-pub. Think back to basics with a twist. Look for modern takes on flavoursome dishes. Goat meat comes to mind. Don’t forget to leave room for dessert.

Want a sure-fire way to dodge food envy: order everything. Although with the average number of dishes on a menu around the 27 mark, this advice is not for the faint hearted. The alternative is selecting one of the numerous degustation menus popping up in restaurants and pubs around the country celebrating flavours, seasons and the chef’s culinary expertise. A fantastic way for chefs to take their customers on a sensory journey. The Australian public are loving it.

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P.S. Forget the hills of Tuscany, the French Alps or the magical wells of Fiji, our in-house ‘Sommelier’ is touting Aussie tap water as the drink du jour for 2011.

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— THANK YOU FOR READING — T H I S J O U R N A L