The Minimalist Page 8
Bijoux-Bijoux Page 13
Hair Romance Page 16
The View
Spring/Summer 2014| Rs.250/-
Special Edition, 1st January’14
The Business of Being
Pankaj & Nidhi Rasna Bhasin sits down with the designer duo Pankaj and Nidhi, and learns about how the brand was built and what’s their story.
Yellow Paradise, Pankaj & Nidhi,WIFW SS’14
Words: Rasna Bhasin Portraits: Naina Redhu New Delhi -- “We want to make clothes, that make you wonder how have they done this” says Nidhi Ahuja from the better half of the duo Pankaj & Nidhi. The journey hasn’t been easy, but these two have stuck like glue, personally and professionally. Chatting with them over a cup of coffee, I started with the very cliché question, how did it all begin? They both met while working as designers for Rohit Bal. Pankaj was Head of design and Nidhi joined the team in 2002. They got married in 2004 while continuing with their jobs. Nidhi moved to join Creative Impex in 2004. In 2006, they say they felt that they were ready to launch their own brand. With a rich experience in the domestic market with Rohit Bal and the experience Nidhi had gathered valuable experience at Creative Impex designing for top European labels like Armani, Kenzo etc, Pankaj & Nidhi the label was born. Probing further I ask how difficult or easy it is to share their professional and personal life with each other and I get a reply in unison, that they both are super comfortable working together, and enjoy working together a lot. They always find excitement in each other’s ideas and it jeeps them going. They also are parents to the very adorable Lyla.
They’re often told that their garments don’t generally get labeled Prêt, but isn’t couture always, where Nidhi adds, that they like to make awe-inspiring clothes, not generally labelling them prêt or couture, but diffusion of both, and thats what makes them exciting. The stress, and the growing Indian market puts a lot of designers in a fix, from getting inspired, to creating collections literally every two months, Pankaj feels it is difficult to find an exciting inspiration each season and even more difficult to do something ‘Novel’ each season, something that surprises not only our audience but also us. We feel that two months before each show are like Board Exams and everything comes to a standstill and the show is our prime focus (After Lyla of course). But each time we feel gratified after the collection with the response of the media and buyers. The humongous effort we put in is worth it.
They made Yellow, the colour of the season with their latest collection for Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, and Nidhi points out that Pankaj had an instinctive feeling about Yellow. He just knew it will be amazing.
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Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
Music Box, Pankaj & Nidhi, WIFW A/W’13
They do not force trends in their collection just for the sake of it, though this season they literally had covered them all. Working on the collection is an organic process for these two.Their collection takes shape after days and weeks of work.Constantly experimenting and exploring through out this process. They do keep themselves updated with international trends but always interpret them in their design philosophy. Nidhi opens up about her favourite collection saying it’s impossible for them to choose one favourite collection. They are all their babies, but their AW12-13 collection Wycinanki is one of their favourites for its Vividness of Colours, the research behind the collection, all culminating beautifully when they visited Poland, the source of their inspiration as an invitation by the Polish Embassy to acknowledge their work with their craft. Their other favourite is their Lakme Finale collection in Monochromatic. It was a refreshing change from their very colourful palette and they sold it like hot cakes, people couldn’t get enough of their signature techniques in Monochromatic colours of black and off white.
Considering that their shows are always considered of international standards, and always so well planned, they say for any designer their show is an extension of their personality. These two trust their instincts about music, hair makeup etc. Though they both agree to that the real stars of the show undoubtedly are the clothes, hence always emphasising on impeccable finishing.
They like to work with natural fabrics like Cotton-Silk, Cotton Satin, Dupin Silk, Silk Satin, Wool, heavy jerseys etc. Their favourite techniques are their signature Lattice work technique done with meticulously hand sewed satin tapes, reinventing pixellation in various avatars and ultra-intricate hand cut appliqués. An art they both seem to have mastered. Their design aesthetics are awe-inspiring.
Colour Blast, Pankaj & Nidhi, LFW
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Spring/Summer 2014
Special Edition, 1st January’14
Describing their personal style, Nidhi says, if Pankaj loves a shirt he buys 6 of them at least! He is quite finicky about the fabric, fit etc. He loves to splurge on nice shoes, watches, bags. I like to shop for chic separates. I like to pick up our statement Jackets from our collections because they are easy to mix up with your wardrobe. Comfort is the key. Kenzo is their all time favourite international brand, and they also like Stella Mccartney.Their favourite Indian brand however is Rajesh Pratap Singh for uncompromising quality and finish. They are already selling in all the top stores of the country, though the duo feel their PR and marketing could be approved. Internationally they already sell at Harrods and Anthropologie. They want to see themselves more prominently in leading international stores, and make their domestic business stronger and bigger.
Pankaj & Nidhi Ahuja
Blue Daze, Pankaj & Nidhi, WIFW SS’14
Ending the interview, I ask them one advice they would like to pass onto upcoming designers, and they say, “Get some Hands On experience in the industry before rushing into starting your own label. It will give you a strong foundation and valuable experience.”.
Pankaj and Nidhi is available at all leading stores such as Ensemble and Ogaan in India. Harrods and Anthropologie, abroad. 3
Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
The ‘It’ Boy of The Indian Fashion Industry He’s too humble to be a Celebrity, but we caught up with Celebrity designer Nikhil Thampi, for some fun, and some madness. Here’s what you want to, and need to know about the ‘It’ Boy of the Indian Fashion Industry.
Nikhil Thampi14
Interview by: Rasna Bhasin
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Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
We played rapid fire with Nikhil, while there was coffee, there wasn’t Karan sadly. Here’s all what Nikhil, had to shoot back at us Describe Nikhil Thampi in one word? Emotional
When did you decide design was your calling? I somehow always knew I was inclined towards arts, so after graduating in psychology I was roped in to join my family business I obviously fell for the stereo-typical Indian family and their emotional blackmailing hahaha. While learnin the trick of the trade I realised this is not what I wanna do for the next 30 years of my life, as they say the creative itch would never let me be bounded to a desk and a table. Thats when I decided to explore and expand my horizon. Style Icon?(men & female both) Indian Male - Rahul Khanna, Ranveer Singh and my dad Female - Sonam Kapoor, Anamika Khanna, Kangana Ranaut. International Male- David Beckam & David Gandy, Female- Lady GaGa, Kate Moss, Donatella Versace, Blake Lively Your personal style? I love my basics. I’m the most comfortable in my ink blue denims and a basic black or white t-shirt. When I have dress up, I generally throw in a statement separate like an interesting waistcoat or a jacket.I go weak in my knees when I see sunglasses and watches so those would definitely be a part of my personal style. One woman you want to see in NT? By gods grace and some luck,I’ve managed to tick mark almost all the women I had on my bucket list to dress, said that I would love to see Sonam, Deepika and Anushka again and again wearing my garments. A style statement that makes you shudder? Hahaha a lot I would wanna say a lot, but I definitely don’t wish to get into any sort of controversy. Though instantly what comes to my mind is bandage dresses, I would poke my eye with a toothpick if I see one more bandage dress on any one. Whats big this season? Gold for sure is the flavour of the season....it’s a festive season in India with all the wedding and celebrations gold would def be the right choice and it’s just a perfect fit for Indian skin tone. A designer you admire? Anamika Khanna, hands down. I get goose bumps when she showcases. I am not star struck at all but yes if and when I ever see her, I definitely will be. A celebrity who needs a stylist desperately? Priyanka Chopra. Priyanka Chopra Priyanka Chopra Priyanka Chopra Priyanka Chopra Priyanka Chopra! And then, Vidya Balan!
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Kathakali.Nikhil Thampi, LFW4
Describe Nikhil Thampi, the label in a word? Experimental
Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
The Edit
From the crisscrossing borders, to disembarking political lines
Mulberry LFW SS’14
Acne Studios, PFW SS’14
International Geographic
Marc Jacobs, NYFW SS’14
The Row, NYFW SS’14
Céline, PFW SS’14
Givenchy, PFW SS’14
The trends for SS’14 have already been set, while we have seen the trickle down to the masses, Rasna Bhasin picks out the best ones for you...
Bermuda Fever
The Bermuda Shorts were seen in sheers, stripes and more...
B for Bralets
Céline, PFW SS’14
Chanel, PFW SS’14
Mary Katrantzou LFW SS’14
Nachiket Barve, WIFW SS’14
Rag & Bone, NYFW SS’14
Alexander McQueen, PFW SS’14
From leather to jewelled, bralets are going to be the next Crop Tops!
Matchy Matchy
Head to toe, matched to perfection, will we see it off the ramp?
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Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
Show Your Metal
Floral Overdose
Big, Small or dissected, from London to New Delhi, it was floral rain...
Sports Night
Victoria Beckham, NYFW SS’14
Altuzarra, NYFW SS’14
Dior, PFW SS’14
Paco Rabanne, PFW SS’14
Icerberg, MFW SS’14
Josh Goraya, WIFW SS’14
Sports wear is the new ‘it thing’, backpacks to racers...
Oxford Come On
Business casual? Not anymore, the Oxford shirt, just got a new makeover
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Oscar de la Renta, NYFW SS’14
Dolce & Gab,bana, MFW SS’14
Christopher Kane, NYFW SS’14
Roberto Cavalli, MFW SS’14
Lanvin, PFW SS’14
Namrata Joshipura, WFW SS’14
Shine & Sparkle, the magic flows all over...
Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
The Minimalist A conversation with the man who strives for perfection, Dhruv Kapur by Rasna Bhasin
Dhruv Kapoor is one of the hottest new designers on the block these days. He started his line in 2012 and has since created a lot of buzz with his minimalistic approach to design and clothes that are architectural and functional. He graduated with a degree in economics from the esteemed London School of Economics and I had to ask to him how he went from economics to fashion. “I started working in fashion before I signed up for studying economics. So, I suppose the only answer for this would be that I’ve wanted to be in fashion since I was 14 or so. I never changed my path, just took a different path than other people who choose to work in fashion” explains Kapoor.
The Minimalist, Dhruv Kapurhampi, LF
His design aesthetic, inspired by his thoughts and musings is very different from what the Indian market is normally used to and as opposed to abroad where he is an instant hit, I inquired if he ever felt like he didn’t fit in the Indian market. He says “I only feel that my designs are meant for a small niche, whether in India or outside. Anyone who chooses to wear DRVV would need to have a fairly evolved set of ideals and own their individuality.” His brand DRVV reflects his personal style statement and eventually Kapoor plans on extending the product ranges for DRVV. He feels “it would be a natural evolution of the business, as long as everything goes according to plan”. With that being said, I wish him all the best in his future endeavours and hope that his dream of seeing Tilda Swinton his clothes comes true!
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Spring/Summer 2014
Blissful Silence, Dhruv Kapur
Special Edition, 1st January’14
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Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
The Man Who Stays Away Wendell Rodricks is not seen much, he’s seen, but not overseen! Doesn’t make sense, read ahead.... Portraits by Naina Redhu Wendell Rodricks, stays away from the limelight, he’s only seen when he needs to be seen. Wendell Rodricks is one extremely inspiring designer. What I find so amazing apart from his designs is that despite residing in a village in North Goa, he still has a great influence on the Indian fashion scene which he thinks is vibrant, upwardly mobile, and fabulous.It is also incredible how he’s stayed true to his sensibilities and never wavered from his design aesthetic which is minimalistic, eco-friendly, resort, cut with Indian geometry with a Goan flavour.
Black Beauty, Source of Youth, WIFW SS’14
I asked him if that proved to be challenging as he is one of the few designers signature style is minimalism and he explains “As a designer who has stayed true to my philosophy it is a an amazing reaction that people like Rajesh Pratap have followed minimalism to sell cotton clothes as designer wear”. He also adds, “When I began I was alone. Now I have many that follow my philosophy. Good for them and me.”Apart from designing, Rodricks has other talents too. His first book, Green Room gave an insight not only about him but the entire fashion industry and he says there are two more in the pipeline! Designer and an author; Wendell really is truly a multi-faceted personality. His latest show titled, ‘A Source of Youth’ saw signature Rodricks silhouettes, great emphasis on music, minimum makeup and finishing. It’s nearly impossible to find a flaw in his collections. I just sat there and gushed.
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Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
Black Wind, Source of Youth, WIFW SS’14
Mistress in White, Source of Youth, WIFW SS’14
Celebrations, Source of Youth, WIFW SS’14
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Spring/Summer 2014
Special Edition, 1st January’14
Don’t Paint Your Face
We caught up with celebrity makeup artist Namrata Soni, to learn what’s in and what’s not this season, and who to follow. The makeup look: “Kaleidoscope, Tropical Sundae.” The products: All MAC. Eyes Sculpted Black Studio Sculpt Lash (available Spring/Summer 2014) generously applied through the upper and lower lashes for perfected volume and length. MAC PRO NC15/ NW20 Chromagraphic Pencil applied through the waterline to brighten and open eyes. Lips - What a Blast! Pro Longwear Lip Pencil used to define and contour the lips. MAC PRO Orange Lipmix applied with the 242 Shader Brush for the perfect bright orange lip to finish.
The makeup look: “A 1950s pin-up beauty…think Dita Von Teese, but in a naughty way, The products: Face - Pinch Me Powder Blush blended over the centre of cheeks for a healthy flush. Eyes Veluxe Brow Liner used to define the brows in a “retro” way: Perfected twothirds of the way starting at the inner brow, then sketched in a broken line after the arch before being brushed upwards, lifting the brow. Blacktrack Fluidline drawn through the upper lashline starting at the extreme inner corner and extending outwards to lift and elongate eyes. False Lash Black Mascara blended through the upper lashes only to lengthen and define. 20 Lash half-demis applied above the outer corners of lashes to extend and lift eyes with a beautiful flick. Lips MAC PRO Crimson and Red Lipmix mixed together for intensity. MAC PRO Basic Red Chromagraphic Pencil used to define, creating a slightly bigger and fuller lower lip to finish.
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Follow the following on Instagram for the best makeup tips:
@namratasoni
@jessicaharlow
@ctilburymakeup
@patmcgrathreal
Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
Bijoux-Bijoux
Valliyan is the hottest brand this season, Nitya Arora tells us why...
I asked her how she came about the super cool warning on her website and Nitya tells me that “Wearing clothes is a necessity, but wearing jewellery is a choice. Its a form of self-expression and seeking attention. The idea is to say that Valliyan jewellery is so beautiful, you just can’t take your eyes off it.” The designer works with a variety of materials with her favourite one being acrylic. She feels, “There’s something so blatant about it, it says this is me, I’m plastic and I don’t give a shit about what you think. It’s very mouldable. You can make any colour and texture with it.” Her use of unconventional and recycled materials has led to some stunning and extremely unusual jewellery. When I asked her if
Nitya ‘Valliyan’ Arora
Nitya has a clientale boasting of some of the biggest celebrities not just in India, but internationally too, from Sonam Kapoor, to Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, everybody has been seen in Valliyan. Nitya is a designer who isn’t inspired by other designers, but by artists and architects and one can see that in all her creations. In the next five years, she hopes to see every woman sporting her brand which I feel is already happening. Most of her rings are already sold out on Pernia’s Pop Up Shop. The creative mastermind has expanded into headgear and handbags and says that scarves are next on her list. I for one can’t wait for that to happen.
“Wearing clothes is a necessity, but wearing jewellery is a choice.”
Urban Jungle, Nitya Arora
As any other brand loyalist, I always wondered how the brand started and how Nitya came up with the brand name to which she says “I was 20 then, walking down Colaba Causeway and I spotted a man making key chains. While watching him I was struck by an amazing idea. I had just finished my board exams and quit my job as a graphic designer at Kunal Rawal so I decided to spend my time executing the idea and I commissioned the key chain maker to create my first Valliyan jewellery Collection.” As for the brand name, she says she was thinking of her oldest association with jewellery and her first piece of jewellery gifted to her by her grandmother and they’re called Valliyan in Punjabi.She says she is very attached to my punjabi roots, So the name seemed perfect!
she ever felt like the odd one out, she explains, “I don’t know about odd but I definitely thought I was the special one out and I enjoy that thought, especially now. When I started out 5 years ago I was one of the 2 or 3 fashion jewellery designers in the country including Eina Ahluwalia, Suhani Pittie and Malini Agarwal and now 500 new ones have followed suit. So I believe I have vision and that makes me odd/ special.”
These ear-cuffs by Valliyan have been the hottest trend this season.
As a self-confessed Valliyan by Nitya fan, I can never get enough of her stuff, so when Nitya agreed to do this interview, naturally I was over the moon. I bombarded her with questions instantly.
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Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
Go Gold-Go Bold Make a statement in Gold, by jazzing up your wardrobe with some of the accessories listed below.
MANISH ARORA FOR AMRAPALI Gold plated Panther third eye maang teeka
VALLIYAN BY NITYA Princess Leia earcuffs with pink crystal
ARPITA MEHTA Gold mirrorwork potli
MANISH ARORA FOR AMRAPALI Gold plated Tassel Bijou hair pin
EINA AHLUWALIA Gold plated Lakshmi earrings
ZARIIN Sunny side up ring
OUTHOUSE Lady Marmalade pendant
DHORA Gold earrings with pointed triangle drops
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SANYA V JAIN Dunne - suede leather embellished clutch
Special Edition, 1st January’14
Spring/Summer 2014
Roll the Curler
The hottest hair trends, straight off the runway...
Stretchy Hairbands Victoria Beckham and Vera Wang pioneered the return of the gym class hero, sending all their models down the runway with bare foreheads, sleek ponytails and thick, black headbands. Remember, what Victoria says, goes. At Victoria Beckham, left, and at Vera Wang, right.
Flower Girls Even with the season’s cutting-edge take on beauty, there was still room for romance. Sweet blossoms embellished updos, braids, and ponytails from New York to Milan.
At Dolce & Gabbana, left, and at Oscar de la Renta, right.
Wave Rave This spring, the beach babe made way for her rockand-roll sibling. Gone from the runways were the bombshell après-surf curls and in their place were lived-in waves that were so matte they appeared to have been untouched for days. Forget “I’m with the band.” With this look, the vibe is more “I’m in the band.”
At Christopher Kane, left, and at Jill Stuart right.
Crowning Achievement Braids weren’t as big a story as they have been in the past few seasons. But they didn’t vanish entirely. Our favorite interpretations? Coiled about the head to create a look fit for a queen.
At Nicole Miller, left, and at Rebecca Minkoff right.
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Spring/Summer 2014
Special Edition, 1st January’14
Hair Romance
Rod Anker’s romance with hair is no secret, we catch up with him for some tips, and to clear some misconceptions about hair
When and how did you decide hairstyling was your calling? When I was about 4 I apparently used to tell my mother. Whats the one thing that irritates you about a customer? Wanting to look like JLo and in reality have no chance. Who is your ideal client? An on time client Do you feel, people in India tend to ignore hair care, what is the one regime everybody must follow? Too many outdated traditions which neither work nor have any benefit are followed while trimming your hair every 6 weeks is a must! A misconception when it comes to hair, you want to clear out for clients? Oil does nothing other than coat your hair!
Rod Anker
A haircut/trend/style that makes you shudder? Jennifer Anniston, whatever she does! On a bad hair day, whats your suggestion? Tie it up, wear it messy up What trends/ hairstyles do you think will be seen in Spring Summer’14? Bob- blunt overgrown bangs and Color cuff
Rod Anker’s Monsoon Salon is one of Delhi’s largest salons 16