7 minute read
WINE
Before the adventurers and the investors stepped on this land and develop the famous Kollur mine of India in the 17th century, the region of Golconda would have already been the most important production and trading center of diamonds in the whole world. According to the archives, until that date, almost all diamonds in the world have been produced by several dozens of mines in this region for more than 2000 years. The earliest record is up to the 4th century B. C.
After introducing the labor-intensive measure of industrial mining, the Kollur mine had a head start on the route of largescale diamond production. The population of the Kollur region was around a hundred thousand at the time, the number of employees of the mines among them was up at 30 to 60 thousand strong. The golden era of the Kollur mine and Golconda region continued to the mid-19th century for nearly two centuries. The Golconda region produced, at its peak, to the scale of 12 million carats of highquality diamonds. The Hope Diamond, which is among the most famous blue diamonds, was discovered at Kollur. Today, the past glory of Golconda keeps its prestige on the global market, due to the special chemical structure and the rare purity of its diamonds.
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▲ The world-famous Koh-i-noor diamond was found in one of the mines of the fort in Golconda. 世界著名的 Koh-i-noor 鑽石是在戈爾康達的一個礦山中發現的 ▼ Golconda Fort in Hyderabad, India. Golconda堡壘，位於印度海得拉巴
▲ Panoramic view of Kashmir valley in the Himalayan region 位於印度與阿富汗邊界的喀什米爾礦區，在喜瑪拉雅山海拔5000M的高山
In recent years, the Argyle mine of Australia stood proudly among the most famous ones in the world. However, with all its high-quality pink diamond and huge scale of diamond mining in general, the mine stopped its production in 2020 and started plans of environmental
recovery.
Nevertheless, at the same time when the mine held its last auction, the world was witnessing the status of colored diamonds taking leaps again and again in the market. In the shadow of the COVID-19 pandemic, the global gemstone market grinds to a stop, yet the colored diamonds are still a marvel to behold. In Q1 2021, They have seen some upward movements; seen at Q3 in the same year, the price would increase 1.1%. Among their peers, Argyle diamonds performed even better, largely due to their historical origin. A prestigious private auction of Argyle diamonds in mid-2021 attracted countless buyers and researchers, presenting 33 pieces with the estimated total price of 18 million dollars. At the occasion, diamond industry consultant Anna Cisecki said in an interview that after the closing of Argyle production, her company received 50% more demands for its gems in the first half of 2021; also at the auction, one jeweler David Fardon admits that Argyle diamonds' value increased 500% in the past 20 years. Seen as a whole, the pink diamonds' price increased steadily, at the rate of 10% in the past 1015 years, which is already a good investment. However, as we can see, gemstones carrying legendary names of the past would naturally deem a much higher value.
Tried by the times, every legendary mine left a trace of its historical spirit in every one of the stones it produced. From its observation, the Ravenal group concludes that, regardless of the eventual depletion of the mines, the enduring character of gemstones will keep the glory of old mines alive, and thus their value will undoubtedly increase. Such is the case for the two historical mines, the Kashmir Sapphires which has seen its last production nearly a century ago, or the emeralds from Muzo, Columbia. They are all known to the world for their unequaled high quality, and thus would be assets worthy of investor's intense attention.
全球暖化正在改寫 你我所認識的葡萄酒
GLOBAL WARMING IS REWRITING THE WINE WE KNEW ABOUT
Text / 唐維怡 Eva Tang
「 14 度？ 14.5 度？」大家紛紛猜測了起來。
「 15.5 度 !!! 」
▲ 為對抗霜害，部分酒農會對葡萄藤灑水，待水轉化為冰， 便會釋放熱能保持葡萄藤及芽眼不被凍傷（照片來源：Philippe Drouhin）
2021 年開春以來，法國葡萄酒產區壞消息不斷， 從嚴重的春霜、冰雹、到黴害，一整年接連不斷的氣 候災難讓法國各產區產量大減，總產量來到僅次 2017 年的新低；全球前三大的葡萄酒產國—義大利、西班 牙、法國—2021 年加總的產量也較 2020 年減少 2,200 萬公石。
儘管作為有著超過千年歷史的農業，葡萄酒農已 經練就一身經驗和功夫，能夠在每一次自然災害發生 的時候有所應對。舉例來說，當葡萄藤正值發芽時節 的冬春交接之際不幸出現春霜，有的葡萄農會在葡萄 園裡點上火爐拉高地面溫度，或是出動直升機來製造 空氣對流；若遇上多雨的年份，為防止濕氣過重而產 生發霉的現象、或是葡萄葉因為過於充足的水分生長 太快導致果實內部的糖分快速累積，也會投入人力來 增加葉子的修剪頻率，或是噴灑硫酸銅製劑以抑制黴 菌侵襲；若不幸遭遇冰雹，導致葡萄果實被打壞打傷， 則會在採收時間出動更多的人力進行果實的篩撿，確 保進入發酵釀製過程的葡萄是完整的；倘若遇上較為 炎熱的一年，則會提早採收的時間，讓葡萄果實的酸 度與糖分維持均衡的比例。越來越多新科技的發明更 讓許多問題有了全新的解決方案。
極端氣候正在成為新日常
然而，過去十年來，葡萄酒農所遭受的天氣變化遠比 過去一兩百年來得更為激烈，過去偶爾出現一次的冰雹， 近年來在歐洲地區成了每年都要面對的問題。平均溫度上 的變化更是劇烈，過去三十年來，法國香檳區的採收時間 逐漸從九月末十月初提前到 2020 年的八月中旬，然而越來 越炎熱的平均氣溫導致葡萄藤發芽時間提早，春霜問題開 始成為常態；同時，即便提前採收，葡萄果實的酸度也逐 年在下降，幾個香檳大廠更開始提前佈局，擁抱無氣泡靜 態酒 (Coteaux Champenois) 的生產。法國波爾多更意識到 其種植面積最大的葡萄品種－梅洛 (Merlot) 已經在逐漸暖 化的氣候下越來越早成熟，從而導致新鮮水果風味的減少 和成品酒精濃度的不斷提升，因此更在 2019 年由國家原產 地命名與質量監控院 ( 簡稱 IANO) 宣布新增七個產地法定 品種。德國 Mosel 產區過去以酸度極佳的雷司令 (Riesling) 聞名全球，如今已經未雨綢繆地開始種植來自葡萄牙的品 種，對不可預期的未來作出準備。
◀ 冰雹襲擊後受傷的葡萄串 （圖片來源：François Nascimbeni＠L'Agence France-Presse）
美國西岸、澳洲，義大利南部和南法普羅 旺斯的粉紅酒產區也都在近年遭受多次熱浪的 猛烈侵襲，熱浪帶來的大火除了讓澳洲阿德雷 德丘產區失去超過 1/3 的葡萄園，加州許多葡 萄酒老饕所追尋的老藤更在旦夕間消失，周邊 倖存的葡萄園也飽受煙霧污染 (smoke taint)； 即便未導致大火，極端高溫也會讓葡萄為求生 存而暫停果實的熟成，也可能因為過大的陽光 導致葡萄曬傷或脫水，進而影響葡萄酒的風味。 不斷攀升的氣溫也讓原本靠著安地斯山雪水灌 溉的阿根廷葡萄酒產區，竟也在這幾年面對了 前所未見的缺水問題，產量逐年下降。
國際葡萄酒與葡萄酒組織 (OIV) 秘書長 Pau Roca 表示，近年來惡劣天氣越來越頻繁，令人 憂心的是，氣候變遷沒有疫苗可打，葡萄酒產 業正面臨著比疫情更加嚴峻的問題。 「葡萄酒農也太可憐了 ! 又是春霜又是熱浪 !」T 感嘆。
葡萄酒農確實是全球暖化之下的受害者，然而，釀酒過程大量的用水和包裝 運輸所造成的溫室氣體排放量遠超乎想像，根據 UC Davis 化學工程教授 Roger Boulton 的研究，釀造葡萄酒的碳排放濃度遠比飛機或是汽車高出五倍之多。
許多人直覺問題出在耕種和釀造方式。確實，根據研究顯示，酒莊在進行葡萄 發酵作業時，一公升的果汁會釋放出 60 公升的二氧化碳，過程中大量的用水和廢水 產生也對環境帶來莫大的壓力。同時，採用有機農耕法的土壤從大氣中吸收的碳含 量是採用傳統農耕方式的八倍；因此有越來越多的葡萄酒農開始在葡萄園裡放牧牛 羊家畜，一方面控制雜草並增加土壤肥力，一方面停止拖拉機等耕種機械的使用， 既減少柴油的使用與溫室氣體的排放，同時也讓葡萄園中的土壤更有生命力，吸收 封存更多大氣中的碳，達到減碳的目的。西班牙 Torres 酒莊更進一步捕捉發酵時所 產生的二氧化碳，將其轉化為油漆產業所需的一項產品。
全球暖化下，沒有人可以倖免於難，也沒有人是無辜的受害者
然而出乎意料之外的是，根據香檳協會 (Comité Champagne) 針 對香檳產區的碳排分析，超過 30% 的碳排來自葡萄酒的包裝環節， 近 20% 來自運輸分銷，10% 來自農耕方式，位於西班牙的 Grupo ARCE 公司也以一瓶典型的西班牙白葡萄酒作為基準，運用英國標 準協會 (BSI) 的碳足跡評價方法學 (PAS 2050)，計算出一瓶 750 毫 升的白葡萄酒從生產到酒瓶回收，約莫會產生 1.21 公斤的碳排放， 相當於轎車在正常速度下行駛五公里的排放量。其中，玻璃瓶所產 生的碳足跡占一整瓶酒的 56.1%，紙箱和軟木塞合計也產生近 10% 的碳排量，顯示包裝環節確實較釀造過程的 20% 還要關鍵。
過去酒類產業選擇採用玻璃瓶裝，是因為玻璃密度較高，能有 效阻絕氧氣與二氧化碳的進入，從而延長產品的保存期限。然而， 一個玻璃酒瓶從燒製到包裝前的巴氏殺菌，需要耗費大量能源；玻 璃瓶的重量更造成後續運輸上的碳排放量增加；其易碎的特性也造 成較高的破損率和額外的包材耗廢。更重要的是，由於回收獎勵不 高、再利用也非常麻煩，實際生活中有超過 60% 的玻璃瓶無法回收 再利用，而這樣的掩埋分解需要至少 100 萬年的時間。目前已將自 家酒瓶改為扁平長方形 PET 塑膠瓶的 Garçon Wines 總裁 Santiago Navarro 表示：「儘管很多人反對塑膠瓶，但眼下最大的危機是全 球暖化，若不立即做出改變，我們可能會先被熱死而不是被塑膠瓶 淹沒。」
▲ 加州北部納帕葡萄酒產區自2017年起多次遭受野火摧殘 （圖片來源：Kent Nishimura/ Los Angeles Times) ▼ 許多酒莊會在葡萄園中點蠟燭或是放置火爐，藉由拉高土地表面溫度， 防止嫩芽凍傷（圖片來源：Domaine Belleville） ▶ 2021年的勃根地從四月份起就遭受嚴重的霜害打擊 （圖片來源：Jeff Pachoud / L'Agence France-Presse) 「越來越多的天災，葡萄酒產量越來越少，酒價應該會越來越 高吧 !」T 擔憂的說到。
「重點是，以後我們該不會捧再多錢都喝不到勃根地的 Pinot Noir 吧 !」講話一向犀利的 H 一針見血。
很難想像二三十多後的將來，我們可能再也喝不到來自勃根地 優雅的黑皮諾 (Pinot Noir)，代表著甜美與新鮮果香的梅洛 (Merlot) 將從波爾多的葡萄園中被拔除，原先冷涼的德國產區生產的竟將是 原先生長於法國南部的格納西 (Grenache)，氣泡酒將從香檳產區消 失 ...，全球暖化為葡萄酒產業帶來的危機並非僅是眼前的春霜、 熱浪與冰雹，更是全球生產版圖的改寫，產區風土的重新定義和葡 萄酒傳統與文化歷史的挑戰。
"You know what?! I saw a bottle of Bordeaux red with super high alcohol level!!!" T suddenly brings up the topic during our long time no see meet up.
"How high? 14%? 14.5%?" people start guessing. "15.5%!!" T announced. "15.5%?!!! Weren't Bordeaux wine usually lie around 13%?" we cried out in surprise.
From severe spring frost, hailstorm, to mildew, all sorts of weather-related problems in France have been in the news since spring of 2021. Climatic disasters have drastically reduced wine production in various regions, reaching a new low level for France second to 2017. For the three major wine producing countries including Italy, Spain, and France, the total wine production in 2021 had dropped 22 million hectoliter compared to 2020.
Grape farming is an agriculture with more than a millennium of history. To experienced grape growers, they have mastered solutions in response to various natural disasters. For example, to deal with spring frost that occurs when grape vines are sprouting as winter turns into spring, some grape growers would burn braziers to increase the ground temperature in the vineyard, or dispatch helicopters to create convection currents. In an extremely rainy year, extra workers would be hired to increase the rate of leaf trimming to prevent molds and mildews due to excessive moisture, or to prevent rapid accumulation of sugar inside the fruit due to too much moisture facilitating the fast growth of grape leaves. Copper sulfate is sometime sprayed to inhibit the mold as well.
Should a hailstorm hit a vineyard and damage the grapes, more workers would be hired during the harvest season to select the fruits and ensure that only grapes that are intact are used in the fermentation process. When the weather is above-average-hot throughout the year, grapes are harvested earlier to ensure a balanced proportion between the sugar level and acidity. Technologies also bring in new solutions, providing new possibilities.
In the past decade, however, grape growers are forced to deal with more and more extreme weather situations than that in the past two centuries. Hailstorm that used to occur occasionally have become an annual problem in Europe. The rise in average temperature was even more drastic. Over the last 30 years, harvest time in Champagne region has moved forward to mid-August in 2020 from the usual end of September or early October in the past decades. The increasing average temperature also leads to early germination of grape vines, turning spring frost into another annual issue for grape growers.
At the same time, even if grapes are harvested earlier, the acidity has decreased gradually every year. Thus, several major champagne wineries have made strategic plans to produce Coteaux Champenois (still wine). Grape growers in the Bordeaux region have also become aware that Merlot, the grape variety with the largest growing area in the region, is maturing earlier and earlier in the gradually warmer climate, resulting in a reduction of fresh fruit flavors and ever increasing alcohol concentration in the final product.
Thus, the Institut national de l'origine et de la qualité (INAO), the French national institute of origin and quality, has announced seven new statutory varieties and corresponding origins. Furthermore, the Mosel area in Germany has also begun preparations for the unpredictable future. Originally famous for making Riesling with excellent acidity, Mosel has begun to plant grape varieties from Portugal and etc..
Extreme Weather is Becoming the New Norm
