Pacifica to Pescadero

Three of the Peninsula’s finest beaches

BY MATEO MANGOLINI Feature Editor

The arrival of summer in the peninsula means the arrival of drastic changes in the weather. Coats and sweaters make way for shorts as we all try to escape the natural oven that is the San Francisco Bay Area. What better way to beat the heat than to head to the beach?

[As I’ve mentioned in my previous review about hiking trails in the area,]

One fact of my family is that my parents are truly picky when it comes to beaches. Since they’re used to the crystal clear waters of the U.S. virgin islands, where my mother’s side is from, I didn’t get a chance to see the beauty of California’s coastline until my friends and I were able to drive, and make the commute without parent assistance. Since then, I’ve taken every opportunity to enjoy the water, whether it be near the dense rainforest of Santa Cruz or the chaparral of Pescadero. our peninsula’s natural geography uniquely situates us to enjoy 60 miles of pacific coastline, stretching from Pacifica in the north all the way south to Santa Cruz. Across this stretch of coast, everything from wind-swept limestone cliffs to rocky coves to rolling sand dunes can be observed and experienced

I’ve found three of my favorites.

On my tour, I found that the stretch of coast between Pacifica and Half Moon Bay was rather miserable for those not interested in surfing or fishing. Pacifica, just south of Daly City, is well known for its cloudy skies, cold weather, and excellent beaches for surfing, but it is rather lacking in the sunshine department. While the sheer limestone cliffs winding down the coast had their own sort of stoic beauty, it was not until I made a stop at Surfer’s beach that I began to see the sun on the Pacific Coast. Just north of Half Moon Bay proper, Surfer’s beach offers convenience, variety and beauty right off of Highway 1.

Parking is a rather simple affair, with many side-streets and lots available to situate anything from a Mini Cooper to a Toyota Tacoma. My first impression was how pristine the beach was considering its proximity to nearby residential and commercial centers, with a notable absence of trash and seaweed. The waters here aren’t as violent as those further north, but it should be noted that there is considerable variation in the tides. The beach itself is wide, but not very long, with a small cliff only 75 feet or so from the water.

At high tide, the water directly touches this cliff in some parts, so I’d recommend stopping somewhere else if you’re not intending to get at least a little wet. There are plenty of elevated (and dry!) nooks and crannies, however, so storing towels and bags and the like is not an issue. You’ll likely encounter other beachgoers and hikers here, especially those walking their dogs,but I didn’t find the area to be crowded by any stretch of the imagination. This beach is the closest to civilization, for better or for worse, with delicious restaurants like the Half Moon Bay Brewing company a 5-10 minute drive up the road and other modern amenities in case you happen to forget supplies at home.

As an admirer of the flora and fauna of this peninsula, one major drawback I noticed was that this beach was largely devoid of any wildlife aside from the odd seagull. The beach itself is really only sand, and The cliff leading up to it only has short grass. That was a little disappointing for me, but for those who simply want a place to swim and relax this feature is far from an issue. This beach feels most like a “starter beach” in a way: It’s accessible, largely uncrowded, close to major commercial centers and open to a variety of activities.

Travelling further down the coast, eucalyptus forests and mountains made way for rolling hills and grasslands, as the sun began to peak through the clouds. Here, between the sun and the sea, I came across Pomponio and San Gregorio state beach.

These two connected beaches are my favorites in this review, but some of their features may be unappealing. To start, these beaches are far more isolated than Surfer’s beach, with the closest settlement being San Gregorio, a small farming community with a massive population of 214. My phone lost service when I entered the parking lot due to the lack of nearby signal towers. These beaches are considerably less crowded than Surfer’s beach, with only two dozen or so other people during my weekend visit.I personally liked this atmosphere- once you’re on the beach, there’s no noise besides the roar of the ocean and other beachgoers enjoying their day. It’s a major drawback of you’re more comfortable having more modern amenities within reach, however.

The other major turn-off for me is that these beaches are recent additions to California’s beach pass system, requiring a small fee to enter or a ridiculously expensive beach pass (costing around $150 a year). While I’m okay with paying $8 for a special occasion, I find it a little ludicrous to pay that amount consistently to have a good time. Nevertheless, these beaches are something special, in spite of the price of admission and the distance from centers of commerce.

This area’s main draw for me is its geography (especially when talking about Pomponio Beach). The beach itself is both very wide and long, with a grassy outcropping forming a sort of bowl around the sand. Hills and cliffs flank the parking lot and beach to the left and right, with a gentle stream going right out to the sea. What’s immediately noticeable is that the surf is a bit more rough, but there’s also considerably less wind than at Surfer’s beach. Most beachgoers stay inside the sand bowl, and even with that concentration of people the beach is still open enough that you won’t feel crowded. Sand Dollars also dot this beach, in addition to drift wood and the occasional patch of seaweed. Head past the large limestone cliff to the left of the parking lot, however, and you’ll see why this beach ranks among my favorites in the peninsula. At both high and low tide you can skirt around the cliff, but only at low tide can you do so without having to wade through water up to your calves . If you venture past the limestone columns, you’ll find a seemingly endless strip of virtually uninhabited beach and limestone caves to explore.

The isolation on this beach is a treat, as it means you and your beach buddies have these smooth sands all to yourselves. Be aware of the presence of Mole Crabs, however. These small crustaceans burrow in the wet sand, and at low tide you can see their tiny carapaces peak just above the surface. When walking barefoot on the beach, you can at times feel your foot graze these creatures, as it attempts to scuttle away. They’re very docile and are not harmful to humans, but if the feeling of walking on wriggling crabs is uncomfortable, this side of Pomponio state beach is not for you. coves, such as sea anemones and mussels, and while visiting you’ll probably find people fishing for small fish. The abundance of sea life, while fascinating, also has some downsides for those wishing to simply relax.

My final stop on my tour was all the way south near the agricultural town of Pescadero. Past rolling hills and the occasional herd of cattle, you’ll find Pescadero State beach. Of all the beaches I’ve seen on this tour, this one has the most varied and interesting geography. Right next to Highway 1, this beach requires no payment for entry, and has a dedicated area for parking like Pomponio and San Gregorio. What is unlike Pomponio, however, is that this beach is a bit more compact, at least in the areas near the parking lot. The area also saw similar foot traffic to Pomponio, but it felt more crowded due to the reduced space. The area has a mix of sandy beaches and black stone coves, with a small, rocky outcropping a hundred or so feet from the main beach. The coves are fun (yet slippery) to walk on, but if you prefer to take it slow there is plenty of flat ground to lay down towels and umbrellas.

When visiting Surfer’s beach and Pomponio/San Gregorio, I never noticed the pungent, fishy smell common to areas frequented by fish, sea lions, and stray clusters of seaweed and kelp. On this beach, however, that smell is certainly noticeable, especially when the wind is blowing toward land. I personally wasn’t bothered by this; if anything, the smell grounded me in the beach environment and was simply another part of nature. Those more sensitive to the less glamorous parts of nature, however, may find it sickening or uncomfortable when trying to unwind. Nevertheless, this beach brings a lot to the table considering its smaller size.

While I chose to focus on these three beaches, that doesn’t mean they’re the be all end all of what the Peninsula has to offer. Ignoring the wealth of beaches in Santa Cruz and San Francisco, in between each of my stops were plenty of coves, beaches and cliffs all offering their own unique experience. Make the most of this coming summer, and head out to the water.

Sand Castles: 17.5 percent

Swimming: 15.8 percent

Beach Volleyball: 12.3 percent