Issue 04 - New Beginnings | RawAssembly's Responsible & Sustainable Textile Sourcing Magazine

One per cent. That is roughly the share wool textiles hold in the global market today. Yet wool is the most regenerative and sustainable fibre known to us. So why does wool make up such a small percentage of the textile market, and how could we increase this globally?.

On an international scale, wool production is a small trade. Since the inception of artificial fibres in the 1800s, the contribution of wool has steadily decreased and fallen by about half over the past 20 years, as wool production has declined and the production of artificial fibres has nearly doubled (IWTO, 2019)

In this edition of our magazine, we focus on wool as our fibre of choice, looking at growers, spinning mills, manufacturers and a new generation of micro-mills all hero-ing wool for its responsible, sustainable and incredible natural fibre properties. In addition to these innovative and sustainable solutions, we explore various challenging questions that underpin the future of wool as a sustainable solution. The critical question this year has been, how do we bring manufacturing back onshore? From the first Australian Government Textile Waste Round Table in May; to various industry workshops, designers, brands, manufacturers, and industry professionals, they continue to ask how we can make this happen? We know we can't simply flick a switch and bring this back overnight, and we may never be able to get it back at a commercial scale. So rather than ask how we can, should we ask; what do we already have that can be restored and re-engaged, allowing us to create a unique network of micro-mills servicing the needs of the country and beyond.

If we think about it, Micro has become something of a buzzword: we have had microbreweries, micro cars, micro flats and even micro furniture, which have been hugely successful and allowed more creativity, creation of bespoke products and breathed a new life into industries that global giants have traditionally run. So in response to Australia's desire to bring manufacturing back onshore, is the answer in what we have already? How can existing and newly established businesses come together to create a network of micro-mills that service different parts of the supply chain allowing collaboration over competition? Two of the main issues in Australia are the lack of infrastructure to spin fibres into yarns and our ability to attract skilled workers. Whilst our international borders remain closed, and the younger generation shows little interest in garment production, manufacturers have to compete for staff, including skilled machinists. So how do we inspire the next generation to think differently about textile and clothing production, and what do we want to be known for in the global market? Do we want Australia to be known for mass garment production? or for creating on-demand, high-quality and bespoke products that sing responsible production and consumption? We have the opportunity to design what the future will look like today and how the textile and fashion industries can be part of a truly circular and responsible future.

To start this change, we look at who's doing what in our region and overseas and how traditional machinery plays a crucial role in reigniting a new era of textile production. We take inspiration from our feature story on a young craftsman Daniel Harris who has opened the first new textile mill in London for more than 100 years. Daniel is helping change the narrative around textile manufacturing by bringing a next-generation approach to a very traditionally run industry. Combining passion and expertise, Daniel is producing fabrics for critical players in the fashion and film industries and embracing the use of wool where ever he possibly can.

Wool production is our past, our present and our future.

As always, I hope you are inspired, informed and enabled by what you read.

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