S O U T H K O R E A • J A PA N • C H I N A
your shortcut to the world
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your shortcut to the world
SOUTH KOREA• J A PA N • CHINA • VIETNAM • PHILIPPINES • THAILAND • M A L AY S I A • I N D O N E S I A •
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YOUCHOOSE. WEFLY.
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contributingteam / editor Jomiro Eming
/ writers Chong Ming Lee, Jessica Dawdy, Lindsay Cohn, Tim Rivenbark, Michelle Legge, Gavin Van Hinsbergh, Jonathan Hopfner, Kasia Lee, Linda Poon, Gulnaz Khan, Cassius Wortmann, John Roach, Cathy Adams, J. Maarten Troost, Maria Wulff Hauglann, Angela Lee, Sean McGibney, Nancy Gupton, Camila Labaronne, Rob Goss, Inès Cho ,Laura Mallonee, Michael Burkhardt, Daniel Stone, Danielle Acoff, Chris Heasman
/ photographers Graham Hart, Matthew Stinson, Roy Cruz, Ben Chin, Po Wen, Jelleke Vanooteghem, Bjoern Steinz, Albert Bonsfills, Jeremy Scott Foster, Aaron Green, Ricardo Rocha, Agatha Marty, Adam Dean, Krista Rossow, Francois Prost, Stacie Flinner, Robert Koehler, Alessandro Crugnola, Saveliy Bobov, Hoil Ryu
/ creative team Roswitha-Julia Eming, Brian Garmin, Catherine Roland, Shanay Volkey, Emma Bell, Louise Endacott
/ project coordinators Brian Garmin, Palesa Mkhize
/ managing director Brian Garmin
/ advertising manager Jomiro Eming
/ designers Jomiro Eming, Ofentse Moduka, Jordan Elliott 50 Wale Street Cape Town, South Africa, 8001 Tel +27 402 4567 alt@titude.co.za
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Being 10 000 metres off the ground doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean your coffee has to be mediocre.
your in-flight artisan roaster
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aboveTHECLOUDS
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your shortcut to the world
editor’s letter Words by: Jomiro Eming
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hether it’s your first time flying with us or not, we are committed to making you feel as if you are a dear friend of ours, or a loved one. Our staff are fully qualified to deliver only the best in-flight service, and you should rest assured that you are in the most capable hands in the sky. But flying is certinaly not what it used to be. Times are changing, and the experience of jetting through the clouds is gradually becoming more of a comfort, and less of a hassle. Our airline is no different, and is in fact constantly pushing to stay ahead of the game. We guarantee that your flight with us will leave you wishing you never had to leave. This flight has been handled with the utmost care and attention. You’ll find our in-flight menu at the back of this magazine, which has all of the gourmet meals prepared prior to this flight by our team of qualified in-house chefs. With top-shelf ingredients and quality cooking, we are sure that our meals will feel like a home-cooked dish, prepared for a friend or a family member. Should you wish to explore our dutyfree shopping, the sleeve at the back of the magazine has a comprehensive list of our proudly South African products, all of which are available for purchase before you leave the flight. Our attendant will be happy
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to assist you should you wish to buy something. Rather than overwhelm you with a magazine crammed-full of information and content, we’ve created a breathable, leisurely read. From shoe-string guides for a budgettraveller, to insider’s tips and tricks from our team of local journalists, the pages to follow will let you adventure through the South-East Asian regions through picture and prose. If you need a hotel, or a restaurant, for your next pit-stop, we have compiled a collection of stories and locations for you to add to your itinerary—–so leave no page unturned! Once you have finished, we invite you to slip this magazine into your hand-luggage as a gift from us to you. Let us be your travel companion as you experience what the world has to offer. We wish you a comfortable flight, and hope to see you again soon.
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what’s
INSIDE
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Retail Therapy
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Hidden Gems
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Jindo Fest, South Korea
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Cherry Blossoms: Japan’s explosion of pink, pink, pink
The Insider’s Review
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Discover Kamakura, Japan
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China’s Terracotta Army
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Local cuisine
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China’s “cave” homes
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Paris’ identical twin
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Must-see streets
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A weekend in Osaka, Japan
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Korea: The American Dream
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Capture every moment, and share it with the #world.
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/ insider’s review
the
INSIDER’SREVIEW Whether you’re looking for a place at which to eat, drink, sleep or simply lounge-around, The Insider’s Review will guide you through the streets, eateries, bars, and hotels of your favourite destinations to make your stay is convenient and catered-for. Peruse some of reviews during your flight and take note of some must-visits spots during you visit!
T O K Y O
Han no Daidokoro Kadochika ヤキニクバル 韓の台所 カドチカ店 —
Rating: 5/5 Price: Moderate to high Vibe: High-energy, attentive —
This restaurant is one of the top-rated by its clientele, and it excels in the quality of its food and its service. It may not be great for a relaxed meal, but for an exciting night-out and a gourmet Japanese food experience? Definitely! This is one restaurant you want to try for yourself!
Millennium Mitsui Garden Hotel 三井ガーデンホテルズ —
Rating: 4.5/5 Price: Moderate Vibe: Classy, value-for-money, clean edges — If you’re looking for something simple, elegant, but where you get incredible value for what you’re paying, then this is what you need. Being situated in a prime location within all of Tokyo’s best attractions, the Millenium Mitsui Garden Hotel is an ideal place to pitstop.
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/ insider’s review
Cabin Nakameguro CABIN 中目黒 —
Rating: 4.5/5 Price: Moderate Vibe: High-class, social — For some of the best cocktails in Tokyo, Cabin Nakameguro has a well-stocked cocktail menu that will keep you sipping for hours. From the classics to the signatures drinks, this gem has something for everyone. If you’re feeling up brave enough, this is a great spot to make new friends with someone!
Daikanyama Sushi Takeuchi 代官山鮨たけうち —
Rating: 4/5 Price: High Vibe: Fine-dining, gourmetv —
S E O U L
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“Daikanyama Sushi Takeuchi” opened in 2017, serving Tokyo style sushi. The owner-chef, Jun Takeuchi, aims at a sushi that is a little different from the standard. In his own words, “I don’t want to get caught up in the traditional notions of sushi chefs - if it is good, I want to offer it as much as I can”.
Tosokchon Samgyetang 토속촌 삼계탕 —
Rating: 4/5 Price: Standard Vibe: Traditional, home-style — If there’s a long queue outside, don’t be discouraged! This restaurant’s historical-looking facade and traditional food will not disappoint. Take off your shoes before entering, and be sure to try its signature chicken-ginseng soup!
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/ insider’s review
Chuan Body + Soul
「川」身＋心 —
Rating: 4.3/5 Price: Moderate Vibe: Relaxing, elegant, classy — Travelling can be so stressful, but you’re in luck! The spa inside the Langham Hotel is a fantastic way to unwind and destress. It is one of Hong Kong’s most wellknown wellness centres, and offers its visitors an array of treatments and massages.
H o n g k o n g
Hoi Wan Heen 凱芸軒 —
Rating: 5/5 Price: High Vibe: High-end, gourmet, formal, retro finish — Blending a gourmet combination of traditional Cantonese and Sichuan foods, Hoi Wan Heen creates a gastronomical experience that will leave your platter begging for more! You might be paying a little extra than in most other places, but the experience as a whole makes it worth it!
The Grand Hotel Myeongdong 더그랜드호텔 —
Rating: 4/5 Price: Higher-than-average Vibe: Classy, elegant, neo-Korean — Situating in the centre of Seoul, The Grand Hotel Myeongdong puts you in a stone’s throw distance of all of Seoul’s best attractions. It’s cleanly furnished rooms give you an edge of luxury, and its optimal location makes it a convenient, yet fashionable way to experience the buzz of this bustling Korean city!
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BUDDHIST ZEN HOTEL
圓和圓佛禅客棧
Experience China.
China, Sichuan Sheng, Chengdu Shi, Qingyang Qu, CaoShiJie, 文殊坊B6-6号 邮政编码: 610081 09.18
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/ retail therapy
sHop ‘til you
DROP
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In this edition’s Retail Therapy, our writers take you through the streets of Busan in South Korea, Tianjin in China, and Somewhere in Japan, to give you some of the best spots for your fix of good old-fashioned retail therapy! From thrift-store, to local markets, to designer, you won’t need more than the next few pages to guide your wallet to where it wants to go!
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/ retail therapy
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he Ancient Cultural Street
There are a lot of souvenirs and trinkets, ancient books, calligraphy, paintings, rubbings, ink stones and ink, Yangliuqing painting, Niren Zhang Clay Figures, etc. but you must know (or learn) how to bargain. Traditionally designed stores line either side of the street, dealing in paintings, calligraphy, jade, or other renowned Chinese arts and crafts. It is a good place to find souvenirs and enjoy the architectural spectacle. If you are lucky enough, you may buy a high-value object in low price.
When: Daily, all day Where: Gongnan Main Street, Nankai District
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mbush Workshop
Shibuya’s famed Cat Street welcomes the first-ever flagship for Tokyo-based brand Ambush. Situated in the former site of American Apparel’s Shibuya Men’s store, the store houses the brand’s conceptual jewellery alongside a growing number of its original apparel range.
Image courtesy of Graham Hart
Also carrying an extensive range of store exclusives and books for daily inspiration, it’s so full of variety you’re bound to stumble upon something new each and every time you visit. Founded by design duo Verbal and Yoon, key influencers in the Japanese fashion/music scene, the brand is noted for its designs that capture the essence of Tokyo street, merged with traditional Japanese techniques, aesthetics and quality craftsmanship.
When: Daily, 12h00 – 20h00 Where: Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Image courtesy of Ambush Workshop
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ア東 レ京 キ サ ン ダ ー ワ ン
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/ retail therapy
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ew Shanghai Commercial Center
The New Shanghai Commercial Center is located in the Pudong district, Lujiazui financial and trade zone. The area of 14 hectares is composed of many high buildings and pedestrian streets. It is jointly invested by the Shanghai Construction Group, with a total investment of approxiamtely 8 billion yuan. New Shanghai has a huge number of retail outlets offering everything from Chinese-made goods to international brands. Boasting the best in amenities, the district offers an unmatched shopping experience, with some of the best brand names setting up shop within this area. From household items to electronic gadgets, you can be sure that New Shanghai has everything covered.
When: Daily, 24-hour Where: Pudong district, Lujiazui financial and trade zone
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OGO Causeway Bay
Whilst the focus is on Japanese brand names at SOGO, there are also plenty of Western and other Asian products on offer, all of which are great souvenirs.
Image courtesy of Shanghai Commercial Centre
The department store type mall has been renovated and expanded to deliver an even bigger selection and a better environment for shoppers to enjoy with floors that seem to go on forever. Fashion and footwear is mid to high end covering city smart work wear, high street trends and smart-casual weekend clothes. If you’re shopping for accessories or jewellery then you will be spoilt for choice with a selection of fine jewellers including sought after designs from Mikimoto.
When: Sun—–Thu, 10h00—–22h00; Fri—–Sat & Day before Public Holiday 10h00—–22h30 Where: SOGO Department Store 555 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Island Image courtesy of SOGO Causeway Bay
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/ hidden gems
Travelling doesn’t always mean that you have to tick off popular attractions from the list — sometimes, visiting local attractions less known to foreign tourists can allow you to see and experience a country more authentically. You can appreciate the sights in peace and solitude, away from the flag-toting tour guides, their tour groups and persistent merchandise sellers.
Words by: Chong Ming Lee, Jessica Dawdy, and Lindsay Cohn Images by: Matthew Stinson
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It’s time to venture outside Tokyo, Seoul and Beijing! From subtropical beaches and snow-capped mountains to ancient shrines and animal reserves, there’s no a shortage of one-of-a-kind destinations just waiting to be discovered.
This could be yours. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get caught without cash while on holiday. Apply for a travel card today.
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/ hidden gems
China
Guanyin Statue This massive statue dedicated to Guanyin, the Chinese Buddhist goddess of mercy, is part of the Nanshan Temple Complex. At 354 feet, the statue towers over the surrounding area. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s said to be the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest statue of Guanyin, as well as the fourth tallest statue on the planet. The statue has three faces, one of which looks towards the land, and the other two which point towards the South China Sea.
Image by Matthew Stinson
Windy Hill In Geoje Island
South Korea
If you are wondering where to go to in Korea for Instagram-worthy shots and beautiful landscapes, Windy Hill in Geoje island should make the top few on your list. This attraction is a visual feast for photography enthusiasts, and is a serene spot away from the city. Located in a tranquil little port village of Dojangpo, Windy Hill is surround by quaint colourful shophouses by the sea. Climbing to the top, there were endless fields of Lallang, and the windmill set nicely against the sunset. The features of the windmill, coupled with pastures of green and yellow lying underneath its feet, made the scene look like it was from an animation movie. I was captivated by this scenery, and a part of me wished that a special someone was here with me. The deep blue hues of the ocean and the golden rays from the sun blend together to form the quintessential romantic setting. Indie and folk music would have fitted the scene perfectly; I was in love with the calmness this village offered!
Image by Roy Cruz
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/ hidden gems
TASHiRoJIMA Off Japan’s Oshika Peninsula, in the Pacific Ocean, is a small island where cats outnumber people. Tashirojima, better known as “Cat Island,” is home to only about 100 two-legged inhabitants but three times more feline friends (not surprisingly, dogs are not allowed). The locals—who have long-believed cats symbolize luck and good fortune—feed and protect the herds of feral creatures. Many travelers have started taking the 40-minute ferry from Ishinomaki to see these cute curiosities.
Japan
Image by Ben Chin
Japan
Kanazawa Kanazawa flourished during the Edo Period. Today, the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture is celebrated for its well-preserved residences, palaces, and districts. But its star attraction, without question, is Kenrokuen. Hailed as one of the three most beautiful landscaped gardens in Japan, it’s thronged with trees, flowers, stones, streams, and ponds. Beside it is Kanazawa Castle, built in the 1580s, the former seat of the Maeda Clan. Thanks to the bullet train (Hokuriku Shinkansen), the trip from Tokyo to Kanazawa is just two and a half hours.
Image by Po Wen
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Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t travel without the insurance you need to live boldly and experience the adventure that is waiting for you.
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Travel to your own beat. Make your own schedule. Rent your own ride.
Find your own adventure.
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discover
Kamakura, Japan
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/ features
Words by: Tim Rivenbark Images by: Jelleke Vanooteghem
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amakura is a small town located an hour south of Tokyo. Referred to as the Kyoto of Eastern Japan, tourists flock here to visit the Great Buddha and numerous temples. During the summer months, the beaches here attract many visitors. On clear days, Mount Fuji can be seen from Enoshima. A Kamakura day trip is perfect for those wanting to escape the crowds and congestion of Tokyo. Getting to Kamakura The average travel time between Tokyo and Kamakura ranges from 60 to 90 minutes. There are three train lines that connect the two cities. JR Yokosuka Line. The fastest way to Kamakura. One hour from Tokyo Station to Kamakura, ¥920 one way. JR Shonan Shinjuku Line. One hour from Shinjuku Station to Kamakura, ¥920 one way. Enoshima Kamakura Free Pass. The cheapest way to visit Kamakura. ¥1470 for round trip transportation between Shinjuku Station and Kamakura on the Odakyu Railway. The pass provides unlimited access on the Enoden line. The journey from Tokyo to Kamakura takes around 90 minutes one way. Getting Around Kamakura Most of Kamakura’s main sites are located around the train stations of Kamakura, Kita-Kamakura, and Hase. Use buses and taxis to get to the more remote temples. For those with extra energy or want to get off of the beaten path, hiking trails connect the more popular temples.
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Best Things to do in Kamakura Great Buddha of Kamakura The Great Buddha at Kotokuin Temple is Kamakura’s most popular attraction. Also called Daibutsu, this is the second tallest Buddha in Japan (the tallest is in Todaiji Temple in Nara), and a true sight to behold. While you are here, you have the option to enter the Buddha. The cost to enter is ¥200. Is it worth the fee? Honestly, ¥200 is a bit expensive. We did it, just to say we went inside the Buddha. Plus, it was raining, so at least for a minute or two we could stay relatively dry. Getting here: Take the Enoden line from Kamakura Station to Hase. From Hase Station it is a 5 to 10 minute walk to Kotokuin Temple, the location of the Great Buddha. Hase-Dera Temple This is a beautiful temple located on a hillside overlooking the ocean. The best part of Hasedera is seeing the hundreds of small statues of the Jizo Bodhisattva that line the walkways up the hillside. This is a beautiful place to visit in June when the hydrangeas are in full-bloom. Getting here: It is roughyl a five minute walk from Hase Station and the Great Buddha. Hokokuji Temple (Takedera Temple) This is another very popular temple to visit in Kamakura! The highlight, however, is the bamboo forest, similar to the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest in Kyoto—–this one is just on a slightly smaller scale.
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/ features
Getting here: Either walk the 30 – 40 minutes from Kamakura Station or take bus 23, 24, or 36 (10 minutes from Kamakura Station ¥200 one way). Kenchoji Temple
Engakuji Temple
Kamakura Hiking Trails
This is one of Kamakura’s great Zen temples and a beautiful place to visit in the fall. The numerous maple trees are one of the highlights of this temple.
For those who want to hike through the wooded hills of Kamakura, these trails are absolutely perfect.
Getting Here: Engakuji Temple is a short walk from Kita-Kamakura Station on the JR Tokosuka Line.
Three different trails connect the most popular temples. Good walking shoes are recommended and this should only be done during dry weather.
Enoshima
About my experience
If you can, make an effort to bring some binoculars. Seeing Mt Fuji in this way is a really special sight to behold!
Enoshima is an island that is very popular with tourists. What draws so many people here? The views of Mt Fuji on a clear day, shrines, caves, an aquarium, coastline.
I visited Kamakura on a day trip from Tokyo in July. A typhoon was just making landfall, cutting my visit short.
Getting here: 15-20 minute walk from the Kita-Kamakura Station on the JR Yokosuka Line.
Getting here: From Kamakura, take the Enoden line to Enoshima Station (25 minutes, ¥260).
This temple is actually a complex collection of buildings and is the location of the oldest Zen training monastery. On a clear day, Mt Fuji can be seen from the temple, which is a highly recommended experience if you catch the perfect weather to go!
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Therefore, I was only able to visit the Great Buddha and Hasedera Temple. I would have loved to hike the trails and tour the other temples—–oh well, next time!
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Comfort and luxury across Japan. Book your stay and let us worry about the rest! www.hotelokura.co.jp
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/ shoestring travel
travelling on a
shoestring budget Words by: Michelle Legge and Gavin Van Hinsbergh
Japan
China
South Korea
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vene though travelling can be expensive, eating in Japan does not have to be.
Eating foreign food, for example, American or European dishes, can be exceptionally pricey. Local food, however, is usually very reasonable, with a bowl of pork ramen costing approximately 600 Yen, equivalent to £3 or $5. Look for small restaurants away from tourist areas; many local restaurants will not have English menus, so it’s worth researching the names of typical Japanese dishes before venturing out. In order to experience an array of Japanese food, try buying snacks from the deli counter at a supermarket. Checkout assistants often offer to microwave food behind the counter, and provide napkins and chopsticks. Tourist attractions range from famous temples to cat cafes, and are not typically expensive outside of Tokyo. It is worth remembering that small, local temples are free to visit, and are just as fascinating and beautiful as the large, famous ones. Exploring fashionable districts such as Harajuku, Tokyo and Amerikura, Osaka, is akin to watching a street fashion parade, and can be enjoyed for free. Equally, Japan’s natural wonders, its magnificent mountains, beautiful beaches and animal habitats, are free for anyone to explore.
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onsider going off-peak to see China's attractions. This typically means traveling in the winter. Many attractions and hotels provide lower price, and you can save a lot on flights. If you don’t mind spending a bit more time between destinations, China’s trains are a fraction of the price of domestic flights. The expanding bullet train network covers middledistance journeys in a similar time to a flight (plus airport transport, formalities, etc.), but at half the cost or less. In the cities, use public transport rather than taxis. Walking or hiring a bike is an economical and healthy way to explore China.
s far as accommodation goes in South Korea, budget traveller’s best option are apparently hostels or dormitories, where you trade in your privacy for the add-on: free breakfast, WiFi, laundry at extremely low cost. The main cities in Korea are well connected by public transports, bus or train. Upon arrival, get yourself a pre-loaded T-money cards, which can be used to pay for bus, metro, taxi and train fares at a discounted rate. You can download the app called Ji Ha Cheol to navigate the complex subway system while you are in Seoul.
Visiting China’s snack streets and “eating like a regular local” offer a mind-broadening and very-lowbudget way to find sustenance. “Western” food is generally priced even higher than in the West, so if you can survive for a tour without a sandwich, real Italian pasta, or coffee you’ll save dollars every day. China has no end of tasty alternatives.
For the shopaholic, good news! The national grand sales are held yearly during Feb and Oct. So even if you are on a shoestring budget, you still can enjoy the shopping pleasure during this time. Also, consider buying the local specialities at the tax-free malls like Dong Hwa and Lotte; you get the best deals here. Buying at the popular night markets is another good option only if you know how to bargain and distinguish the qualities.
With accommodation you tend to get what you pay for, though smaller cities further west are better value for money generall. See what comfort level you can tolerate, and check the reviews online for your taste.
So the myth has been debunked. South-East Asia is possible on shoestring budget. Don’t put your Kim Chi dream just yet, and let us help you to cross out another destination from your bucket list.
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/ 24 hours
4 2
HRS
With only 24 hours, it can be hard to try and make the most of every second you have in a new city. So Our team has put together a 24-hour itinerary for some of the region’s greatest lcoations so that you can make the most of your Limited time there!
Seoul
Words by: Jonathan Hopfner Seoul has long been painted as the unknown quantity among Asia’s megacities, at most a stopover for travelers on their way to somewhere with more cachet. But that portrayal looks increasingly outdated for a place starting to set trends. The best time to experience Seoul is now, before this former underdog gets too comfortable in the global spotlight—–and gets really busy! What to do While much is made of Seoul’s headlong dash to development, a celebrated past still lives on in its stately royal palaces. Here the country’s kings and queens resided until Korea’s occupation by neighboring Japan in the early 20th century hastened the demise of the monarchy. The largest palace, Gyeongbokgung, has sat at the foot of Mount Bugak for over 600 years, as old as the capital itself. Fronted by the towering, radiantly colored Gwanghwamun gate, it’s a sprawling network of pavilions, passageways, and courtyards. At its center lies a
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vast throne hall still furnished with royal accoutrements such as an ornate wooden throne and banners depicting mountains, dragons, and other symbols of longevity and power. Where to eat While foreign cuisine remains popular, more restaurants are beginning to traffic in culinary nostalgia. Downhome barbecue joint Hongik Sutbul Galbi cooks fresh cuts of beef and pork over steel drums and accompanies them with pungent vstews and fiery pickled vegetables. The Korean rural idyll has found urbane new digs in places like Moon Jar, where humble standards such as steamed pork and mung-bean pancakes are paired with artisanal rice wines. Buddhist temple cuisine, which draws on thousands of years of tradition, delights modern-day diners at elegant Baru, which serves vegetarian meals that adhere to ancient principles but sacrifice
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nothing in terms of flavor or variety. Where to shop The older districts north of the Han are still dominated by traditional markets, some of which have operated for centuries. They span multiple city blocks and cater to teeming crowds with dazzling arrays of housewares, fresh produce, and cooked snacks—in other words, a formula for sensory overload and fertile ground for bargainhunters. Namdaemun is the most accessible for visitors, its stalls bursting with Korean specialties such as ginseng and lacquerware. The fashion-conscious rely on nearby Dongdae¬mun, packed with the work of young designers as well as bulk quantities of factory-produced clothing, shoes, and bags. Insadong remains the city’s go-to zone for classic art, crafts, and souvenirs; calligraphy and ceramics tend to be good buys.
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Xi’an
Words by: Kasia Lee
If you only have 24 hours in Xi’an to take in the city’s historic sites, you’re in luck. Though you could easily linger for two more days and absorb all the magnificent details of this ancient city, it is possible to see the main draws in just one. Here’s our best advice for your perfect one day trip to Xi’an. Check In Drop off your bags at Hilton Xi’an, conveniently located inside Xi’an’s ancient city walls and walking distance from attractions such as the Muslim Quarter, and the Bell and Drum towers. Pause and Get Your Bearings Xi’an’s most distinctive feature is the Ming-era city walls that still surround the city-center; locals often refer to locations as “within the walls” or “beyond the walls”. The Bell Tower sits on the central axis of the city, from where the four main streets extend. While most sights are within the city area, you will have to journey about 45 minutes outside the city for the Army of Terracotta Warriors. The Army Frozen in Time Start the day early and head out to the site of the Terracotta Army. One of the most famous archaeological finds in the world, this 7000-strong subterranean army has silently guarded the tomb of Qin Shi Huang,
China’s first emperor, for more than two millennia. Three excavated pits display an army of life-sized warriors – each archer, cavalryman or general unique with his own expression, hairstyle, armor and military rank. Lunch In the Muslim Quarter Weary traders and travelers from Central Asia ended their long caravan journeys in Xi’an, bringing with them dishes and recipes from home. You will find their descendants at the old Muslim Quarter, where most of the Muslim community resides today. Walk the streets and see locals hammering on peanut and sesame candy, roasting lamb skewers over coal-fired griddles, or stirring huge pots of steaming lamb stew. Enjoy local snacks such as the Chinese burger (rou jia mo), which is made up of Uyghur flatbread stuffed with tender strips of slow-cooked mutton, stewed with chili and cumin. Walk through History (Optional) If you need a break, head back to your hotel and rest up for an evening out, otherwise, keep up your momentum and continue on to the Shaanxi History Museum. Dubbed the “Treasure Chest of Ancient China”, this museum houses a remarkable collection of local artifacts that depict the development of Shaanxi province culture from the Neolithic ages through to the Qing Dynasty.
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The exhibition halls take you on a miniature tour through ancient Chinese history and the glory days of Xi’an as the imperial seat of 13 dynasties. Well-preserved pottery from nearby Banpo Neolithic village and many exquisite Shang Dynasty bronzes are also on display. Dusk on Wall As the sun begins to set, go on a walk or bike ride along Xi’an’s old city walls. The largest intact city wall in the world, its imposing 12m-high walls are surrounded by a dry moat with a total perimeter of 14km. Since its construction in 1370 during the Ming dynasty, the wall has been restored and it is possible to circle the wall in its entirety. Look out over modern-day Xi’an, where slices of old and new, local and foreign come together. Dumpling Dinner Finish off you day with a dumpling banquet in the city that takes dumplings to a whole new level. Dumplings are a ubiquitous dish in China, but in Xi’an they come in every shape and color you can imagine. Sit back and prepared to be stuffed as plates of tiny duck-shaped dumplings, dumplings folded into fish, or intricate flowers, each with it’s own delicious combination of stuffings – like pork, shrimp, duck, green onion or celery – are brought out for your eating pleasure.
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Jindo Sea Parting Festival
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/ features
Each year, the Jindo Sea parts to reveal a narrow strip of land connecting two South Korean islands. And it’s a sight to behold. Words by: Linda Poon Images by: Bjoern Steinz
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undreds of thousands of locals and foreign tourists gather at the southern tip of the Korean Peninsula every year for the Jindo Sea-Parting Festival. The event, which this year started on Thursday and runs through Sunday, celebrates a natural phenomenon in which the Jindo Sea—the northern portion of the East China Sea—opens up just enough to reveal a 1.8-mile (2.9-kilometer) pathway connecting South Korea's Jindo Island to the nearby island of Modo. For the hour that the path is visible at its peak time on each of the four festival days, visitors take leisurely walks to Modo Island while the locals dig around for clams and seaweed. Although there is only one annual festival, the water actually parts two to three times a year between March and June. The parting of the Jindo Sea was brought to the wider world's attention in 1975 by former French Ambassador to South Korea Pierre Landy, who called it the Korean version of Moses' miracle in a French newspaper, referring to the biblical parting of the Red Sea.
result in varying distances between the two, are called tidal harmonics because they operate regularly. The contributors all generate different gravitational forces, causing several distinctive but repeating patterns in the tide over time. "The key with these harmonics is that there are lots of them that contribute different amounts, or amplitudes, to the tides and that also contribute at different times," Moffett said in an email. Occasionally the many harmonics will line up to be "in phase" and create either an extreme high tide or low tide, as happens with the Jindo Sea. "Just like drummers beating slightly out of sync, eventually the many different harmonics will actually happen to line up to create a big 'beat' all at once," she added. In the Jindo Sea, what appears to be a parting of the waters is actually a lowering of the entire sea to reveal a ridge of land—a 130-to-200-foot-wide (40-to-60-meterwide) path that emerges daily during the festival.
But far from miraculous, the Jindo Sea parting is likely the result of extreme low tides caused by a phenomena known as tidal harmonics. Many people know that the gravity of the sun and the moon tugging at the surface of the Earth's water causes tides—the periodic rising and falling of the sea level. Depending on the relative position of each body, both the sun and the moon pull with different strengths and at different times, causing high tides in some areas and low tides in others. But according to Kevan Moffett, an assistant geoscience professor at University of Texas at Austin, the respective positions of the sun, moon, and Earth are just one of the many factors that contribute to the annual parting of the Jindo Sea. Certain factors that influence tides, such as Earth's rotation cycle or the movements of the Earth and the moon that
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"This is probably because the sediment has preferentially deposited at that one spot due to relatively calmer water occurring along that line between the islands," Moffett said. The science behind it is actually fascinating. As long as the shapes and positions of the islands and of the Myeongnyang Strait to the east of Jindoâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;which controls the tidal rangeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;stays the same, the sea parting will likely continue to happen twice annually. According to Moffett, "this is likely what has allowed the festival to grow up over a long timeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;long enough to produce the legend of the tigers in Jindo." Wait, There's a Legend... With Tigers? For those who would rather believe in the magic of the sea parting, you're not alone. Take comfort in the statue of an old woman and a tiger near the coast of Jindo. According to legend, tigers were once abundant on Jindo Island. But when they began invading local villages, people fled to Modo Island. One woman, Bbyong, was inadvertently left behind. She prayed to the god of the ocean, Yongwang, every day until finally the god told her in a dream that a rainbow would appear in the sea the next day for her family to cross the ocean. When she went out to sea, the waters miraculously parted and a rainbow road appeared. Bbyong's family crossed the sea to meet her, and thus began a popular tradition among locals and a mystical attraction among tourists.
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Fontana beach hotel Your dream holiday in South Korea awaits
69 Pyeonghwa-ro, Sinheung-dong, Mokpo-si, Jeollanam-do, South Korea (+82) 61-281-1963
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CherryBlossoms in Japan
Japan’s iconic flower represents the beauty and brevity of life. Words by: Gulnaz Khan Images by: Albert Bonsfills
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housands of people gather in Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, Tokyo, to picnic under blooming cherry blossom trees during Japan's incredibly popular, annual flowerviewing celebration. Every spring a tapestry of pink blooms blankets the island nation of Japan, starting in the south and crawling northward. Cherry trees, or sakura, symbolize the evanescence of human life in Japanese culture—their blossoms are both brilliant and brief. In Tokyo, urban dwellers emerge from their homes and offices to take pause underneath the fleeting bloom, their daylong celebrations stretching into the night. “They serve as a visual reminder of how precious and how precarious life is,” says photographer Albert Bonsfills, who captured the exuberant spirit of hanami, one of Japan’s oldest and most revered traditions. Hanami, or flower-viewing celebrations, date back to the 9th century when Japanese emperors held viewing parties with their courts. According to folklore, the mountain deity traveled to rice paddies on floating cherry blossom petals and nurtured the crop. Thus, a long bloom became synonymous with a fruitful harvest. Because of this relationship to rice—which sustained human life—the tree was regarded as sacred. They decorated the armor
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of samurai, were tucked into the elaborately folded hairstyles of geisha, and graced the scrolls of poets. But the symbolism behind Japan’s most iconic flower is complex and mutable. As the country underwent internal and external transformation, the cherry blossom’s meaning also evolved. Falling petals—once a quotidian symbol of birth, death, and rebirth—transformed into a nationalist icon during Japanese colonial expansion. In 1912, Japan gifted more than 3,000 cherry trees to the United States as a gesture of friendship and political alliance. They were planted along the Tidal Basin in Washington D.C., which now shares the yearly blossom-viewing tradition. During World War II the flower was once again reborn as a military symbol. Tokkotai (kamikaze) pilots took to the skies with branches affixed to their uniforms and a single blossom painted on each side of their planes: A motif of their final flight and sacrifice to the emperor. Trees were planted at military shrines and throughout Japan—their falling petals a reminder of the fallen soldiers. Today over 200 species of cherry blossom trees cloak the archipelago of Japan. Though they've carried different meanings throughout the ages, they continue to bring communities together year after year under a common one: to celebrate Japan's most beloved flower.
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they continue to bring communities together year after year under a commonality: to celebrate Japan's most beloved flower.
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ACTIVE travel
Words by: Cassius Wortmann Images by: Jeremy Scott Foster
Sometimes the best way to see a new place is to put on your walking shoes and get outdoors! Here are our top picks for an active holiday.
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okkaido, Japan (pictured above), a land of natural beauty, is a good place to enjoy walking for people of all ages and abilities. The trails in the Rebun Island are beautiful with lots of wild flowers in summer. The trails in natural parks including Shiretoko can be enjoyed only if you wear proper footwear, while Mt. Daisetsu offers nice routes for prepared climbers. Why donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you go out to enjoy breathtaking scenery whether it be with a guided tour or on an individual basis?
and less traffic than on the mainland. There are bike rental services in this popular tourist destination and some operators conduct professionally guided tours, such as week-long bike tours.
Cycling is a good option not only as a way of transportation but as a way to enjoy magnificent scenery. Hokkaido is a nice place to cycle with a smaller population
If you prefer back country, Mt. Asahidake might be a good option thanks to its deep powder snow and some ungroomed courses.
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Hokkaido is one of the best places in the world to enjoy winter activities. It boasts the finest powder snow in Japan and a wide variety of courses. Most ski resorts in Hokkaido are extremely well equipped and offer apres-ski activities.
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Make sure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re equipped and ready to handle virtually any terrain, weather, or outdoor adventure. Shop with K-Way.
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ACTIVE travel
Manjanggul Cave, Jeju, South Korea A 30 m tall (98.5 ft) and 23 m (75.5 ft) wide lava tube penetrating more than 13 km (8 mi) into the earth, Manjanggul Cave makes up part of a World Heritage Site sheltering exceptional volcanic rock formations and wildlife. Observe the world's largest lava column standing 7.6 m (25 ft) tall, and a stone shape resembling Jeju Island. Part of a larger lava tube system, the cave features the greatest number of living creatures of all tubes on the island, including bats and the Jeju cave-spider. Formed 200 000—–300 000 years ago, the tunnel remains remarkably well-preserved with lava stalagmites and stalactites and cascades of funky flowstones. Watch the slippery steps and dress for 10 degrees Celsius.
Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan, China Cut tightly between towering Himalayan peaks, Tiger Leaping Gorge is China’s deepest gorge, and one of the most accessible treks in the hillside, mountanious country. No matter where one looks, spectacular scenery is visible in all directions, from lofty snowcapped mountains to the glint of the rushing river thousands of meters below. The gorge takes its name from a local legend, in which a tiger is said to have once leapt across the river to escape hunters. This hike can be enjoyed as a two-day extension to another Yunnan journey. What’s more, it’s relatively peaceful, with only the odd farmer and the rush of the river to keep you company.
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CHINA’S TERRACOTTAARMY An ancient army, immortalised in clay, eternally protecting Emperor Qin’s tomb, the first emperor of China. Words by: John Roach Images by: Aaron Green and Ricardo Rocha
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orkers digging a well outside the city of Xi'an, China, in 1974 struck upon one of the greatest archaeological discoveries in the world: a lifesize clay soldier poised for battle. The diggers notified Chinese authorities, who dispatched government archaeologists to the site. No-one expected to find what they did. They found not one, but thousands of clay soldiers, each with unique facial expressions and positioned according to rank. And though largely gray today, patches of paint hint at once brightly colored clothes. Further excavations have revealed swords, arrow tips, and other weapons, many in pristine condition. These can be seen at the museum. The soldiers are in trenchlike, underground corridors. In some of the corridors, clay horses are aligned four abreast; behind them are wooden chariots. The terra-cotta army, as it is known, is part of an elaborate mausoleum created to accompany the first emperor of China into the afterlife, according to archaeologists.
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CHINA’S TERRA-COTTA WARRIORS: YOUNG EMPEROR Ying Zheng took the throne in 246 B.C. at the age of 13. By 221 B.C. he had unified a collection of warring kingdoms and took the well-known name of Qin Shi Huang Di—the First Emperor of Qin. During his rule, Qin standardized coins, weights, and measures; interlinked the states with canals and roads; and is credited for building the first version of the Great Wall. According to writings of court historian Siam Qian during the following Han dynasty, Qin ordered the mausoleum's construction shortly after taking the throne. More than 700,000 laborers worked on the project, which was halted in 209 B.C. amid uprisings a year after Qin's death. To date, four pits have been partially excavated. Three are filled with the terra-cotta soldiers, horse-drawn chariots, and weapons. The fourth pit is empty, a testament to the original unfinished construction.
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Archaeologists estimate the pits may contain as many as 8,000 figures, but the total may never actually be known. UNEXCAVATED TOMB Qin's tomb itself remains unexcavated, though Siam Qian's writings suggest even greater realms of Chinese treasures. "The tomb was filled with models of palaces, pavilions and offices as well as fine vessels, precious stones and rarities," reads a translation of the text.
Modern tests on the tomb mound have revealed unusually high concentrations of mercury, lending credence to at least some of the historical accounts that exist. Chinese archaeologists are also using remotesensing technology to probe the tomb mound. The technique recently revealed an underground chamber with four stairlike walls. An archaeologist working on the site told the Chinese press that the chamber may have been built for the soul of the emperor.
The account indicates the tomb contains replicas of the area's rivers and streams made with mercury flowing to the sea through hills and mountains of bronze.
Experimental pits dug around the tomb have revealed dancers, musicians, and acrobats full of life and caught in mid-performance, a sharp contrast to the military poses of the famous terracotta soldiers.
Precious stones such as pearls are said to represent the sun, moon, and other stars.
But further excavations of the tomb itself are on hold, at least for now.
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“Discretion is a love hotel’s most important commodity. Patrons can make cashonly transactions through automated computers or with clerks stationed behind opaque screens to guarantee their privacy and anonymity”
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Luggage without the extra “baggage.” Travel stylishly. Travel lightly.
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Words by: Gulnaz Kahn Images by: Albert Bonsfills
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apan’s population is shrinking. Deaths now outpace births, marriage is plummeting, and young people aren’t having sex.
The media are calling it sekkusu shinai shokogun, or “celibacy syndrome”—an alarming trend that has the Japanese government funneling tax dollars into speed dating and matchmaking services over fears of an impending economic collapse. But in a neon-lit pocket of Tokyo’s Shibuya district, BDSM equipment, mirrored ceilings, vibrating beds, and condom vending machines paint a different reality. Welcome to Love Hotel Hill, where Japan's sex industry is flourishing.
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CLANDESTINE ENCOUNTERS True to their moniker, pay-by-the-hour love hotels cater to millions of Japanese couples every year, and increasingly, tourists. There are more than 30,000 love hotels in the country, and hundreds in Tokyo alone—a multibillion-dollar business that accounts for a quarter of the sex industry. With increasing life expectancies, the rising age of marriage, and high population density, multigenerational households are ubiquitous. When married couples live in close quarters with elderly parents and children, love hotels offer a practical alternative to thin-walled Japanese homes where privacy is scarce.
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Although a majority of clientele are dating and married couples, sex work and extramarital affairs are not unheard of. Discretion is a love hotel’s most important commodity—they feature secret entrances, covered garages, and disposable license plate covers. Patrons can make cash-only transactions with clerks stationed behind opaque screens to guarantee anonymity. Others have sophisticated automated systems. The customer is shown a panel of photos of available rooms and features. They push a button to make their selection, which triggers a trail of lights that leads directly to the room. The technology may be contemporary, but the origins of love hotels can be traced back to the Edo Period (16001868), when tea houses were established for liaisons with sex workers and geisha. The 1920s brought the emergence of enshenku—one yen dwellings that could be rented hourly and featured Western furnishings like double beds and locking doors. The modern iteration of the love hotel proliferated in the 1970s and 80s with Japan’s economic boom and a growing fascination with Western culture—these ostentatious properties catered to fantasy and mimicked Hollywood movies and fairytales. Many of today's love hotels still offer themed rooms, ranging from Disneyland characters to mock classrooms to BDSM dungeons. Others are indistinguishable from standard hotels save for their erotic amenities—vibrators, cosplay for rent, rotating beds, and sadomasochistic equipment. In fact, some of them look so much like ordinary hotels, tourists often book them online unwittingly—–imagine their surprise. SEX ON THE DECLINE Japan’s love hotel industry may be prospering, but the country is experiencing a paradoxical decline in marriage, childbirth, and sex. More than 40 percent of men and women aged 18-34 in Japan have never had sex, according to the National Institute of Population and Social Security Research. If the current trend continues, it is projected that by 2060 Japan’s population will have shrunk by 30 percent—an impending economic disaster. But in the midst of a stagnant economy, staying single has become an attractive choice. As cost of living rises and job opportunities diminish, more young singles are returning home to live with their parents—these youths have become known as parasaito shinguru, or parasite singles. Unconstrained by
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mortgages and childrearing costs, their salaries are used almost exclusively as disposable income, allowing them to live carefree and unattached. In fact, adult children in Western Europe and the United States are remaining in their parental homes longer as well—both a symptom of struggling economies across the globe and evolving views on sex and marriage. Japanese women are also embracing unprecedented economic independence. “We’re seeing many people who are living partnerless lives," says Eric Garrison, a clinical sexologist, sex counselor, and author. “There used to be this cultural belief that if you have a man, and your man is successful, then you're successful. Having a husband is not a sign of success anymore.” For some, antagonism towards emotional entanglement is so pervasive that they choose to eschew romantic relationships altogether. In 2006, Japanese writer Maki Fukasawa coined the term “herbivore men”—those who are not interested in flesh—to describe this wave of Japanese sexual apathy. FLIGHT FROM INTIMACY While progressive social changes may be afoot, others worry the decline in sex is indicative of a more existential crisis—that technology is alienating, rather than it is connecting us. Psychologist and Harvard professor Craig Malkin describes the inherent dangers in what he calls cybercelibacy. “While gaming and pornography can’t ever cure our loneliness, over time they do become an incredibly addictive salve— and that makes it easier and easier to turn away from people and back to cyberspace,” he writes. “For people already leery of intimacy, the chance to lose themselves in
an exciting world they can enter and exit at will can easily become a way of life.” Replacing physical human interactions—which are fallible, unpredictable, and sometimes messy—with carefully edited images and meticulously planned conversations in cyberspace has removed the serendipity from relationships and redefined intimacy. This phenomenon isn’t unique to Japan either—Americans are also having less sex. According to a recent study published in the Archives of Sexual Behavior, sexual frequency has been on the decline in the United States since the late 1980s. The authors suggest a variety of factors may be responsible—the availability of alternative entertainment options, like video streaming, pornography, and social media; the libidoquelling effects associated with rising depression rates and pharmaceutical side effects; and the decrease in partnered Americans in relationships. Notably, millennials and Generation Z—who grew up immersed in technology—are having less sex than any previous generation. In an era of sexual apathy, Japan’s love hotels seem to defy the trends. They offer privacy for uninhibited sexual exploration in an increasingly crowded and technologymediated world—but these spaces may also be disappearing slowly as well. With the upcoming 2020 Olympics in Tokyo, the government wants to convert love hotels into standard accommodations to service the influx of visitors. For now, Tokyo's hidden erotic wonderland is open for business, for tourists and locals alike.
Stay connected. Roam freely.
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Spending a Weekend in
Osaka, Japan Words by: Cathy Adams Image by: Agatha Marty
Why go now?
19 million people live in its wider area.
The long-suffering transit hub for former imperial capital Kyoto, Japan’s second city Osaka is finally having its moment in the spotlight as more than just a fun night out (although what a fun night out it is). In 2016, 9.4 million tourists landed in Osaka, up 31 per cent on the previous year, according to the city’s tourism authorities.
The city is easy to navigate on the efficient metro system (although the subway stations themselves are more like airports), and most of the sights you’ll want to see fan out from the central JR Osaka Station, so it’s easy to see things on foot.
The recent opening of Festival Tower West (festival-city.jp/english), the second tower of Japan’s highest twin towers development, in Osaka’s Nakanoshima district has lent the sandbank sandwiched between the city’s business districts a buzzy feel. And its newest hotel opening, the Conrad Osaka, which crowns the top floors of the West Tower, has done absolutely nothing to dent its cool appeal. Autumn is Osaka’s loveliest season: the heat disappears, the leaves turn a rich brown and there are far fewer tourists around than in the ever-popular cherry blossom season in the spring. Get your bearings Osaka feels far more compact than its megalopolis big sister, Tokyo – even though
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Around the corner is Nipponbashi, the home of Osaka’s wacky cosplay culture. On Ota Road you’ll find seven-storey department stores dedicated to anime, selling magazines, cards, movies and more, as well as maid cafes, where everything is served to you by gussied-up cosplayers with pigtails. Lunch on the run
SATURDAY Take a view You’ll arrive from Kansai Airport into the sprawling central JR Osaka Station. On the 14th floor of the North Tower of JR Station City is a hidden urban farm filled with cucumbers, tomatoes and blueberries; walk up from the 11th floor. It offers blockbuster views over western Osaka – spot the robotlike Umeda Sky Building – as well as being a great spot to catch the sunset. Take a hike During the Edo period in Japan (1601-1867), Osaka was known as “the nation’s kitchen”. That heritage is borne out at the covered Kuromon Market, a series of arcades selling fresher-than-fresh sushi and sashimi, T-shirts and trinkets, plus some bizarre homewares. There are also plenty of casual restaurants to grab a bowl of ramen or a beer.
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Down one of the many backstreets around busy Namba Station is equally busy Nosta Ramen, a square wooden bench surrounding a central kitchen. The signature dish is ramen, topped with tender pork slices and mountains of beansprouts. Come hungry: you can buy noodles – done the traditional way, al dente – by weight from the vending machine. Open daily 11am-3pm and 6-9pm. Cultural afternoon With the 2018 Osaka opening of the Kosetsu Museum of Art in Festival Tower Wes, which will house a traditional, thatchedroof Japanese tearoom, Nakanoshima is cementing its relatively new reputation as quite the art hub. Nearby Festival Tower East (which also has a vast theatre in the basement, with regular performances from travelling orchestras
and ballets) boasts the subterranean National Museum of Art. There are rotating exhibitions, and it’s just acquired some contemporary Japanese art pieces. Look for the twisty steel entrance and head down. Open Monday to Friday 10am-5pm, 10am9pm at weekends; 430 yenentry.
SUNDAY
Take a ride
Out to brunch
An aperitif
Window shopping
If you’ve come all this way, you’re probably going to want to see temple-studded Kyoto too. It’s only 30 minutes away from Osaka Station, and an easy day out: walk the steps flanked by thousands of orange tori gates of Fushimi Inari-taisha and cycle around the bamboo groves of Arashiyama.
The Conrad’s 40 Sky Bar & Lounge is the city’s hottest sundowner spot – and the Takoyaki in the Sky cocktail its most Osakan wheeze. A takoyaki ball, a local speciality in the form of an octopus meatball, comes perched on top of a gin and blue curacao.
Japan’s long trade relationship with America is the reason behind the bizarre, playful Amerikamura district in Shinsaibashi. Streets lined with stamp-sized vintage fashion and jewellery shops push up against over-lit, overstimulated Pachinko halls, and all of them pump out early 2000s hip-hop. It’s a haven for vinyl record collectors – swing by Root Down Records or Vinyl Chamber, open 12-8pm. Make sure you visit the mini Times Square, complete with mini Statue of Liberty, to complete the bizarre tour of this place.
Dine with the locals Neon-lit Dotombori is zingy at any time of day, but when the sun goes down it really gets going; and its boiled-sweet-coloured signs look particularly Instagrammable. Street vendors open up, prodding takoyaki balls and flipping okonomiyaki, a type of Osakan pancake, usually with pork or prawns. With so many stalls, the best advice is to look for the biggest queue and join it. For more formal dinner plans, try any of the wooden-fronted restaurants by the Hozen-ji Temple. You’ll recognise them by the gauzy fabric hanging from their doors.
For proper eggs, try Eggs & Things. There’s a branch in Shinsaibashi serving eggs done in every way and some Hawaiian specialities. Open 9am-10pm daily.
Walk in the park Osaka Castle dates back to 1583 and crowns an elegant, 106-hectare park complex with a plum garden, a Grove of Remembrance and – weirdly – a tree stump that commemorates where a monk once took off his habit. You can even see cherry blossoms here. Open 9am-5pm daily; entry 600 yen.
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Then book for dinner at Sushi Wakon, helmed by a Michelin-starred chef in Kyoto’s traditional core, Gion. With only 10 seats at a table carved out of a single piece of cherry wood, the restaurant does an excellent omakase menu. Open 11.30am-1.30pm and 5.30-10.30pm daily. The icing on the cake Osaka’s main draw is that it’s an easy city to have fun in, and nowhere more so than in its micro bars around Ura Namba. The Misono Building has an underground atmosphere, with many small bars that stay open very, very late on the first floor. But Osaka has everything you need for a restful but fulfilling weekend, and—– provided you accomplish everything on this list—–you can easily get a great sense and experience of this wonderful, magical city.
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Seoul
The cutting-edge of cool
Words by: J. Maarten Troost Images by: Adam Dean
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Are you familiar with the Korean Wave? Do you swoon whenever Lee Byung-hun appears on the big screen? Do you follow, with perhaps a slightly unhealthy interest, the tangled love lives of K-Pop’s megastars? Are you aware that LeBron James really does drive a Kia? If you answered no to these questions, well, I’m afraid you are behind the times, my friend. The world has moved on. But it’s not hopeless. You too can ride the zeitgeist. All you need to do is turn your gaze to Seoul.
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oday, South Korea is cool. How cool? Well, on the day I arrived at Incheon International Airport—a sleek new Asian hub where one can find a golf course, a skating rink, a casino, a spa and sauna, a museum, a cinema, an arts and crafts studio, and the kind of dining options that will make you weep in despair the next time you encounter an airport Cinnabon— North Korea was busy playing with its nukes. My phone was aflame with news of hydrogen bombs, ICBMs, and American F-22 Raptors patrolling the DMZ while North Korea stood ready to launch 500,000 artillery shells into the heart of Seoul, just 35 miles from the border. This, I thought, is not good. I had flown in from my home in Washington, D.C. I tried to imagine what it might be like if some heavily armed, psychotic dictator with provocative hair threatened our nation’s capital with Armageddon from his sanctum in Baltimore. I think I can state with some certainty that there would be pandemonium. We do not do sangfroid in Washington. We are, as you have long suspected, mostly weenies. Incidentally, not so in South Korea’s Seoul. “I don’t think about North Korea when I’m stirring my pasta,” said my friend, who wanted
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to remain anonymous because she works in PR for a large Korean firm. She said this a little wistfully, not because she was especially moved by the current troubles, but because she had just given up carbohyrdates. “It’s just another foreign country. And so we ignore it and get on with our lives.” I had met her in a coffee shop in Gangnam, the flashy section of Seoul south of the Han River, which acts as a kind of border of its own, neatly bisecting the city, dividing the old Seoul of palaces, markets, and government ministries from the new Seoul of cloud-scraping highrises, cutting edge restaurants, and tottering fashionistas. Gangnam is where many of Seoul’s movers and shakers live, work, and play. They are fueled by caffeine, as evidenced by the approximately 30 coffee shops that seem to inhabit each and every block of downtown Seoul. Not a single one offers decaf. I checked. “The energy is addictive here,” she noted, as we mainlined a couple of espressos. “Koreans have a continuous need for change. We have a saying here: Change everything, but don’t change your wife or your kids.” This was the exhortation Lee Kun-hee, the son of the founder of Samsung, gave to his employees back in 1993 (before his recent
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Koreans have a continuous need for change. We have a saying here: Change everything except your wife and kids.
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sex scandal), urging his company to forego conformity and embrace risk and innovation. It worked, of course. Today, despite some embarrassing setbacks, Samsung is a tech behemoth, and is one of the reasons why South Korea leapfrogged dozens of nations to become the world’s sixth largest exporter. More importantly, Lee’s maxim seemed to be a spark that helped fuel the great transformation of South Korea. China may be the world’s factory, but increasingly it is South Korea that determines what people the world over consume, from pop music to television dramas to smartphones to biopharmaceuticals. And yet, it sometimes seems as if South Koreans haven’t quite internalized just how revolutionary their recent history has been. One of the great curiosities of Seoul is the locals’ insistence that they are the Italians of Asia. It is something I would hear often and, frankly, I found it inexplicable. Yes, Koreans are expressive, emotional, impulsive—all attributes typically associated with Italians—as well as Brazilians, Lebanese, Nigerians, Tahitians, and my kids. But are the office lights still on at 11 p.m. in downtown Naples? Do little boys and girls in Milan spend their weekends at cram schools? Does anyone tune in to Italian television shows? No. I think what Koreans mean—and they are quite proud of it—is that they no longer feel tethered to the old Confucian ideals of duty, fealty, and hierarchy. And this has led to the thrum of energy one can feel crackling through modern Seoul. This can be a little intimidating or the first-time visitor. I consider myself a city boy, but greater Seoul, with its population of 25 million people, each and every one of them hypercaffeinated and determined to seize the day, can make even the most hardened urbanite feel like a country bumpkin. I was familiar with the long work day (well, not personally, but I know people) but I did not realize that in South Korea this extends to infants. Korean babies are the most sleep deprived little people in the world. And, having spent some time in the megacities of China, I thought I understood the kind of scale that
boggles the mind. But did you know that Seoul has the highest concentration of restaurants per capita in the world? The South Korean capital is full of such brainmelting factoids. Somehow, without anyone noticing—and by anyone, I mean me—Seoul has become one of the great cities of the world, a giant pulsating star, radiating its energy to the far corners of the world, too busy with the here and now to worry about the apocalyptic shenanigans of its northern neighbor. Where, I wondered, does one even begin to explore a city like Seoul? “You should begin in the very center of Seoul,” my friend told me. As it turns out, the center of this city is found on Mount Namsan, an idyllic 859-foot promontory capped by the N Seoul Tower, which looms over the city like a watchful sentry. I like to begin the day with a little serenity, and the undulating four-mile footpath that encircles the hill is about the only place you’ll find it in this dense urban wonderland. It was late winter when I wandered up its slopes—the streams that tumbled down the hillside remained frozen and the trees barren—but the ever present clamor of birdsong suggested spring was imminent. Here and there, I came across remnants of the old city walls, constructed during the early Joseon Dynasty, when Mount Namsan marked the southern border of Seoul. Interspersed throughout were the exercise yards typical of East Asia, which seemed to be the exclusive domain of elderly gentlemen, each with an old-timey transistor radio emitting the warbling love songs of a bygone Korea. There is a cable car to the peak, but I chose to follow an enchanting stone stairway, and after 45 minutes of clambering I emerged at the top, where I was greeted by the sight of tens of thousands of “love locks” hung on fences, gates, railings, and even officially sanctioned, specially designed metal “trees of love” that line the paths like immortal Christmas trees. Love is a serious business in Seoul. One of the first things that comes up in a budding
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Authetic Korean food in half the time. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let cooking take away from your holiday. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got you covered.
947-1 Daechi 2(i)-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, South Korea
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“
Once a couple resolves that they are bloodcompatible, they invariably make the pilgrimage to the peak of Mount Namsan, where they profess their deep and abiding smittenness.
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relationship is determining whether or not a couple is blood compatible. Many Koreans believe that one’s blood type determines one’s personality. Type As, for instance, are understood to be kind though prone to being introverted and perfectionists. I, as a Type O, am apparently a confident, expressive, egotistical risk-taker, which does not sound good, but which helps explain some questionable life decisions. Once a couple resolves that they are blood-compatible, they invariably make the pilgrimage to the peak of Mount Namsan, where they profess their deep and abiding smittenness and mark the moment with the ceremonial placement of a padlock. But I had not come here for romance. I bought a ticket to the observatory deck of N Seoul Tower and rocketed up in a swift elevator with a lift
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attendant who saw me off with giggling bows. At the top, the first thing one encounters is a Weeny-Beeny Candy Shop, and while tempted, I had not come to the mountain for sugar either. No, I had come to behold Seoul. Its immensity is staggering. Tower after tower stretching off as far as the eye could see, filling every nook and valley of the rugged landscape, from the Lotte World Tower, which ascends to 1,821 feet, to the hundreds of apartment blocks. And for the visitor, there is everything here, as I would discover in the days ahead. Do you desire some old-school imperial Korea? Well then, head on down—via cable car, regally—to Changdeokgung, the Palace of Illustrious Virtue (the home of Korea’s last emperor) and wander the grounds, making sure to visit the secret garden, and accept your insignificance.
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Restore your humanity with a walk through the alleyways of Bukchon Hanok Village, where more than 900 traditional Korean homes and guesthouses have been carefully preserved. Absorb the lilting, angular roofs, the heavy wooden doors, and the decorative brick walls, and remember that once upon a time Seoul was but a small town. Then make your way to nearby Hyoja-dong, long a home for craftsmen, but increasingly known for its avant-garde art galleries. Not as well known as Samcheong-dong, Seoul’s venerable art mecca, Hyoja-dong is notable for its commitment to preserving the historic ambience of this district of hanoks and maze-like passageways while welcoming the hot glare of the contemporary art world.
because you are a first time visitor to Seoul, you have no idea where to go. That’s okay! Because what Seoul does really well is street food. There are dozens of markets spread throughout the city. Some, like Dongdaemun, are known for fashion. Others, like Namdaemun, are known for—–well, to be honest, everything.
And now you’re hungry, of course. And
Nearly every Korean, it seems, is passionate
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If you can’t find what you’re looking for in Namdaemun, it’s probably not available anywhere on Earth. Spicy rice cakes and Korean fried chicken (so much tastier than its American version—sorry, Southerners!) are ubiquitous, but keep your eyes open for silkworms (beondegi) and poo bread. Seriously. Trust me.
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about food. And you soon understand why. Korean cuisine is not subtle. Every bite is a carnival of tastes, from the fiery chicken feet (dakbal), to the bitter dandelion salad (mindeulle muchim) and sweet Korean pancakes (hotteok). Me? I like the traditional galbi restaurants, where you grill marinated beef short ribs at your table while your dining companions get marinated on soju, the local firewater. And perhaps no place does it better than Mapo Sutbul Galbi in trendy Apgujeong-dong, where the stars of K-Pop and film come to dine. People are beautiful here, but now so are you. You have arrived. You are in the center of the universe here. You are in Seoul.
With a selection of over 100 items, our daily menus are regularly rotated to ensure optimum variety. The many innovative products we offer cover everything from Western cuisines to traditional Chinese dishes. New and seasonal products are also offered regularly.
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LOCAL CUISINE
Exploring the world, one mouthful at a time!
Words by: Maria Wulff Hauglann and Angela Lee
Travelling can be really exhausting, so staying fuelled is incredibly important. use the excuse to taste local cuisine, and tickoff our list of must-eats.
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Japan SOBA Soba are noodles made of buckwheat flour, which make them grey/brownish in colour. They are a Tokyo favourite, and date back to the Edo period (1603-1868) when they became popular among Samurais. Soba dishes comes in many different variations, but the most basic Soba dish is Mori Soba in which boiled, cold Soba noodles are eaten with a soya based dipping sauce (Tsuyu). You can also have green Soba, which is Green Tea Soba (Matcha Soba), where buckwheat flour are mixed with green tea powder.
GYOZA Japan does not really have a â&#x20AC;&#x153;streetfoodâ&#x20AC;? culture as other Asian countries like Thailand, but Gyoza or steamed Dumplings are the sort of food that you will find sold at street stalls around Japan and at train stations. It is originally Chinese, but has become very popular all over Japan. The dumplings have different kind of filling, like pork, beef, chicken, vegetables and beans.
YAKINIKU Yakiniku is the Japanese version of barbecue, which invites diners to cook slices of meat and vegetables on a plate or griddle in the middle of the table. Beef and offal are the most popular options at Yakiniku restaurants, but also pork, chicken and seafood are usually on the menu.
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At Yoshinoya, Japanese-inspired cooking is the essence of our menu, and sharing that delicious experience with each of our customers is the mission of our company. Signature Gyudon Beef Bowl, irresistible Grilled Steak or mouth-watering Teriyaki Chicken? We're on a mission to serve the fresh flavors you crave, inspired by our Japanese heritage and prepared specially for you.
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China Ma Po Tofu This dish is over 100 years old. Yours, however, will be prepared nice and fresh—promise! A spicy dish of tofu with browned ground beef in a savoury sauce topped with green onions, it is blissful on top of a hot mound of rice. Most people skim past it, but it is without a doubt one of the best dishes in all of China for its harmonious ability to unite texture with the perfect dose of spice.
Pomelo The pomelo is a citrus fruit that is really much like a giant grapefruit. You can’t possibly eat it all yourself, not in one sitting at least. Chinese people love to bring these as gifts to each other’s homes and share them over tea.
Mantou Most people assume that Chinese people eat rice with every meal, however that’s not true. If they’re not eating rice or even noodles with their meals then they’re eating mantou. Mantou is a steamed bread. It’s mostly plain in taste and a bit doughy, but it’s good for sopping up sauces or stuffing with the meats and vegetables you’re eating to fashion a sandwich of sorts.
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South Korea Kimchi One of the oldest and probably the most essential dishes in Korean cuisine, kimchi is a spicy and sour dish made up of fermented vegetables. It is prepared with various kinds of ingredients, but the most common main ingredient is cabbage. Kimchi is popular among foreigners for its unique flavour, as well as its high nutritional value, fibre content and low calorie content. However, for Koreans, it is most popular due to its significant cultural value. Without kimchi, dinner is considered a little somewhat incomplete.
Bibimbap Bibimbap is essentially a bowl of mixed ingredients including, but not limited to, rice, namul (seasoned and sautĂŠed vegetables), mushrooms, beef, soy sauce, gochujang(chili pepper paste), and a fried egg. The ingredients found in bibimbap vary by region, and the most famous versions of the dish are found in Jeonju, Tongyeong, and Jinju.
Hobakjuk A sweet and grainy dish, hobakjuk is a traditional Korean porridge made from steamed pumpkin and glutinous rice that has been soaked in water. Though its appearance is simple, it is extraordinarily sweet and flavourful due to the pumpkin. It is served both hot and cold but is best when hot.
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LIVING UNDERGROUND An intimate look into China’s cave-dwelling population Words by: Sean McGibney Images by: Krista Rossow
Did you know that some 40 million people live in cave homes in China? That’s more than the entire population of people in Poland! A little-known fact outside of China, yaodong cave dwellings have been attracting increasing numbers of visitors in recent years after some were opened to the public. A tradition that dates back over 4 000 years, cave dwellings in China are most common in Taiyuan, Lanzhou, Yan’an, among other places. The most famous yaodong in China are perhaps those in Yan’an, and the communists led by Mao Zedong were said to have been headquartered there between 1935–1948. Edgar Snow visited Mao and his party during this time and penned Red Star Over China. Yaodong come in a variety of types, however the most common are dug out into the faces and slopes of the plateau. In the interior, a square pit is dug into a sunken courtyard and the entrance is usually found as a ramp or underground corridor.
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They may seem simple—–even rustic—–but they come with all the amenities of a modern, Western home. Courtyards are said to come with separate bathrooms, sitting rooms, bedroom ans even a livestock shed. Some yaodong have six generations living under their roofs, with a typical family having three to five caves. However, in recent years, many young people have chosen to opt for life and opportunity in big cities. Now most commonly inhabited by older generations, some young people have returned to revamp their yaodong and even open stylish bed and breakfasts. The most modern are now equipped with electricity and other facilities. An average yaodong has a depth of 6-7 metres and length of 10-12 metres. The walls are supported on all four sides, which some say means they boast features such as earthquake-resistance, sound-proofing and energyefficiency. If this is to be believed, it’s a wonder that we decided to build up into the sky!
They claim it takes as many as three years of digging to create an underground cave house of approximately seven to eight metres.
A basic one-bedroom yaodong would set you back around R600/month, whereas a family dwelling of three bedrooms and a bathroom would cost around R900 000 in order to purchase outright.
The best ones—–sometimes dating back to more than 200 years—–are apparently found in the villages of Renma and Miaoshang in Shanxian Town.
Yaodong create a wonderful mosaic when viewed from above, a true hidden beauty to behold. Perfect for an upcoming trip to China!
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ancient, vibrant
Hiroshima, Japan Words by: Nancy Gupton Images by: Krista Rossow
Hiroshima, an ancient Japanese city that has witnessed samurai and shoguns, withstood earthquakes and floods, undergone an unprecedented atomic attack, and flourished as a modern metropolis, is thriving as one of Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top tourist destinations. Visitors are flocking to this city on Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main island of Honshu to take in the spectacular sights, explore ancient history, and feel the pull of peace. alt /86
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Find where you and your gnomie belong.
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Hiroshima
PEACE MEMORIAL PARK A serene expanse of public squares and green lawns in what was the administrative and commercial heart of Hiroshima belies the destruction that occurred here on August 6, 1945, when the United States dropped an atomic bomb on the city. An estimated tens of thousands died and more than two-thirds of the city was destroyed. Today, the 30 acres of Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park contain monuments, memorials, and public spaces dedicated to the victims of the blast and the pursuit of peace. An eerily beautiful skeleton, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial (or Genbaku Dome) was the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotional Hall at the time of the bombing and was the only building in the blast’s hypocenter to survive. It has been preserved exactly as
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it was immediately following the blast, with the metal framework of its dome exposed. A 1966 resolution by the city council read, in part: “Along with the demand to stop nuclear war and ban all hydrogen and atomic bombs, preservation of the dome is the sincere wish of the atomic bomb survivors, all citizens, and people all around Japan who pray for peace.” It became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996. The Children’s Peace Monument is a hopeful remembrance of the young lives lost in the attack and its aftermath. A statue honors Sadako Sasaki and her quest to create one thousand origami cranes before her untimely and unfortunate death, which came 10 years after the blast from radiation-induced leukemia. She was 12. Sadako’s paper cranes have become an international symbol of the pursuit of peace; thousands are sent in from around
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the world and displayed in glass cases at the historical monument. Also in the park are the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, a cenotaph for the victims, a peace bell, and 24 “phoenix” trees that survived the blast and have been carefully tended since.
HIROSHIMA CASTLE Originally constructed in the late 16th century at the delta of the Ota River, Hiroshima Castle was home to generations of feudal lords until the abolition of the han system in 1871. After that, the castle— complete with moats—was used as a military facility until it was destroyed in the atomic blast. The tower, or tenshu, was rebuilt in 1958 and now houses a history museum. In springtime, about 450 cherry blossom trees
turn the grounds into a Technicolor vision. The tower’s fifth-floor observation platform offers sweeping views of the city.
ITSUKUSHIMA SHRINE But the star attraction on Miyajima is unquestionably the Itsukushima Shrine, fronted by an enormous red torii gate that rises from the water. One of the largest torii in Japan, it stands nearly 55 feet tall, painted vermilion to keep evil spirits away. A gate has stood here since 1168; the current torii is the eighth one, built in 1875 of camphor and cedar. At high tide, the gate—and the shrine behind it—appear to float on the water. At low tide, visitors can walk to the foot of the torii, laid bare by the retreating water. The striking sight of the gate rising from the water is one of the three views of Japan, a
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designation said to date to the 17th century. The Shinto shrine complex itself, a UNESCO World Heritage site, stretches low over the water, completing a trinity with the sea before it and the green mountains behind it. A shrine has been here since the sixth century; the present one was built in the 13th century. Seventeen buildings make up the complex, including a Noh stage for religious performances. Wide corridors lead between the buildings, which seem to float on the sea at high tide. Whichever attraction takes your fancy, Hiroshima has got to go onto your list of places to visit! It is a vibrant, passionate, ancient, peaceful, exciting, and culturally-rich city, waiting to show you its glory!
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There are easier ways to learn a language.
Now offering Korean, Mandarin and Japanese!
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/ talk-the-talk
TALK TALK
Being in a foreign country comes with a host of insecurities and uncertainties, and having a language barrier thrown into the mix is an unnecessary addition to your problems! Our multi-lingual team has put together a list of six useful things to know how to say in Mandarin, Japanese, and Korean, so that you can find your way around with ease! We’ve also included the local writing systems, so that even if they can’t understand you, they can read whatever you point to. Just keep this page handy, and you’ll be able to zip through your city like a local!
Hello, how are you?
How much (money) does it cost?
Chinese: Nee-haoww. Nee-haoww-mah? 你好. 你好吗
Chinese: Dwor-sshaoww chyen? 多少钱
Japanese: Konnichi wa! Ogenki desu ka? こんにちは. 1お 元気です か?
Japanese: Kore wa ikura desu ka? これ わ いくら です か？
Korean: Ahn-nyung-ha-se-yo. Uh-dduh-keh ji-neh-seh-yo? 안녕하세요.어떻게 지내세요?
Korean: Uhl-mah-eh-yo? 얼마에요?
Thank you
Where is—–?
Chinese: Sshyeah-sshyeah. 谢谢
Chinese: ... dzeye naa-lee? ... 在哪里
Japanese: Doumo arigatou gozaimasu. どうも ありがとう ございます
Japanese: ... wa doko desu ka? ... わ どこ です か？
Korean: Gam-sa-ham-ni-da. 감사합니다
Korean: ... uh-di-eehn-ji ah-seh-yo?) ... 어디인지 아세요?
Do you speak English?
Bathroom
Chinese: Doowee-boy-chee-yee-nee-hoyee-sshoowo-yin-gwen-ma? 对不起，你会说英文吗?
Chinese: Tser-swor 厕所
Japanese: Anata wa eigo o hanasemasu ka? あなたは英語を話せますか
Japanese: Toire. トイレ
Korean: Yung-uh hal su-eet-suh-yo? 영어 할 수 있어요?
Korean: Hwajangsil. 화장실
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LOCAL’s GUIDE Words by: Camila Labaronne, Rob Goss and Inès Cho
China
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amila Labaronne never planned to land in the imperial city of Xi’an, China. After an intense year of teaching, learning Mandarin, trying out calligraphy, and trying to cook Chinese food, this world traveler wants to show people that there’s much more to her city than the terra-cotta army: You can see my city best from the TV Tower. Locals know to skip the busy streets of the Muslim Quarter and check out a hutong, or “narrow alleyway,” outside the center instead. The Shu Yuan Men books and art market is the place to buy authentic, local souvenirs. For a more traditional and authentic feel, the bird and flower market in the Muslim Quarter is an unforgettable experience, although there’s not much you can take home for your friends. My city’s best museum is Shaanxi History Museum because the collection is incredible even if you’re not a history buff. Plus, admission is free. If there’s one thing you should know about getting around my city, it’s that getting a taxi can be a hassle, especially if you’re a foreigner, but it’s still the quickest way to get anywhere you need to. The best place to spend time outdoors is the Qinling Mountains—a few hours away by train but definitely worth the trip. For a fancy night out, I go to De Fa Chang restaurant and eat loads of dumplings. The best outdoor market in my city is any alleyway that you can find, my favorite being Sha Jing Cun. The dish that represents my city best is biangbiang noodles, and ancient liquor baijiu is my city’s signature drink. Sample them at any hole-in-the-wall place.
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Japan
South Korea
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ob Goss, prior to going fully freelance in 2008, was the deputy editor of Japan’s oldest bilingual (English-Japanese) magazine. Whether feature length or vignette, he is a story-teller, and to date has edited and updated more than a dozen books on Japan, including authoring six of his own books. As someone who knows what it’s like being both a foreigner and local, Rob shares some of his insider tips for seeing a different side to Tokyo: You can see Tokyo best from the observation decks at Tokyo Skytree, the second tallest structure in the world at 634 meters. To find out what’s going on at night and on the weekends, read Time Out Tokyo or Tokyo Cheapo. To find the best places to eat, read Bento.com. It’s got some great suggestions! In the summer you should try a night at one of the beer gardens that pop up on department store rooftops. In the winter you should head to Ryogoku—–Tokyo’s sumo heartland—–to try a hearty chanko nabe, the hot pot sumo wrestlers eat to bulk up. Many of Tokyo’s best museums are in and around Ueno Park, with the vast collection of artifacts and antiquities at Tokyo National Museum and the reconstructions of Edo-era streets at the Shitamachi Museum being some of the standouts. For art, visit the Roppongi area, which by night is known for its varied restaurants, clubs, and bars, but is also home to the National Art Center and leading contemporary venues like the Mori Art Museum and 21_21 Design Sight. To unwind, just outside Tokyo—especially west in Hakone or north in Nikko—you can stay at traditional Japanese inns, enjoying a night in tatami-mat rooms and soaks in natural hot springs – these are a must!
nès Cho—–creative director, author, TV host and writer—–fell into journalism by chance, and as a founding member of the International New York Times, is a pioneer of cultural media in South Korea. As a result, she knows exactly where best to go to experience Seoul like a local. She shares some of her tips and tricks, and lets us in on this magnificent city’s secrets: An old-fashioned rickshaw ride around historic areas such as Bukchon Hanok Village or Seochon Village is a whimsical way to enjoy sightseeing. From hidden alleyways to bustling thoroughfares, all without breaking your heels or your feet. Ride a cable car up to Namsan Tower for the best view of the futuristic downtown district. In the evening, hip denizens and expats can be found mingling at Glam Lounge, a trendy bar in the heart of Itaewon, the city’s international entertainment district. Dress smartly to make a good impression amongst the famously fashionable Koreans. There’s no bad time to visit the South Korean capital with an array of cultural, art, music and sporting events all year round, but, if you can, come during the popular, ravishing cherry blossom season. One activity that’s weatherproof is the yearround, 24-hour shopping in the Dongdaemun markets. If you would like to see life outside the city, a 90-minute subway ride will take you to green mountains and rivers. Leeum Museum is a private museum run by Samsung’s culture foundation. It has a wideranging collection of Korean art. The old porcelains—–Chungja and Baekje—–are mesmerizing, and the contemporary works are absolutely superb.
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Go to Mullae Arts Village if you are looking for the hippest place in Seoul.
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Tianducheng Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very own knock-off Paris
Words by: Laura Mallonee Images by: Francois Prost
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AT FIRST GLANCE, Francois Prostâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s photograph of the Eiffel Tower looks like it was taken on any given day in Paris. But just outside the frame are clues that the structure in his picture is nowhere near the Champ de Mars
WAYGO Utilizing a combination of Optical Character Recognition and machine translation, Waygo translates Chinese, Japanese & Korean characters into English text by seeing images, finding the relevant text, and finally creating sensible phrases. And the best part? Waygo doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t require an internet connection to operate.
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Tianducheng
Paris
Paris
Tianducheng
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Tianducheng
T
Paris
ianducheng is a Paris-inspired housing development on the outskirts of Hangzhou, China. Its 12 square miles feature rows of Haussmann-style apartment blocks, neoclassical statues, and a third-scale model of, yes, the Eiffel Tower.
within the gardens of Versailles, and—more inexplicably—near the Arena of Nimes, a Roman amphitheatre in southern France. "They try to mix those clichés in a different way," Prost says. "There’s not much sense behind it."
You can even visit the Arc de Triomphe and the gardens of Versailles.
Prost became fascinated by so-called “duplitecture” several years ago after learning about China’s European knockoffs— Dutch windmills, things like Venetian canals, and the like.
"The monuments look the same, but it’s a totally different context," says Prost. He explores the weirdness in Paris Syndrome, a surreal photo series juxtaposing street scenes from the real Paris with their Tianducheng knockoffs.
But it wasn't until seeing a fake version of his own city, Paris, in a Romain Gavras music video that he decided to investigate.
"What I like about seeing them side-by-side is that you’re kind of lost," Prost says. "You don’t know which is the original or which is the copy."
So last October, he flew to Hangzhou, took an hour-long taxi to Tianducheng, and checked into an Airbnb right next to the Eiffel Tower.
Tianducheng opened in 2007with enough room for 100,000 inhabitants—presumably some who wish they lived in the real Paris. But it's less an exact copy than a theme park-like mish-mash; the Eiffel Tower sits
He immediately set out exploring. The architecture looked surprisingly real, but he kept seeing things he didn't in Paris— unsightly air conditioners dangling from windows, whole families piled onto single
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scooters, workers sweeping the streets with straw brooms. The buildings themselves lacked any trace of time, and the faces of some statues seemed slightly off. "Even when you try to copy it as best as possible, there’s always a bit of awkwardness, some details that are not right," Prost says. He spent a week wandering Tianducheng with his DSLR and tripod. After returning home, he organized the photos into different categories for buildings, for monuments, and for people. Then he set out systematically documenting their real counterparts—about 50 total— always shooting in the same soft light. The matches are sometimes eerily close, but there's almost always a detail or two that signals something is off. That's what makes them fascinating. Tianducheng doesn't completely look like France, but it's not exactly China, either.
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What’s with the name? We pronounce it with a long E, like plee-co. It’s the nickname of a type of aquarium catfish that Michael (the owner) had several of when he was a kid—–a stylized example of which graces our company logo. We think it’s actually supposed to be pronounced pleck-o, but he’s been saying it the other way since he was 10 and he’s not changing it now.
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The chinese language in the palm of your hands. Every day, millions of people in at least 180 countries use our APP to help them study and communicate in Chinese. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get left behind.
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Avoid busy shopping centres. Rather shop in Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest online shopping mall, and get exactly what you need, in half the time.
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FAVOURITESTREETS Some streets are non-negotiable items to add to your travel itinerary, and we’ve put together three that we think you should stroll through while you travel!
Words by: Michael Burkhardt Images by: Stacie Flinner, Robert Koehler and Alessandro Crugnola
Liulichang Cultural Street (琉璃厂古文化街), China Liulichang is the oldest street in Beijing. Situated outside Hepingmen, with brightly painted doors and eaves and gracefully curved black-tile-roofs buildings, a little of old Beijing’s lifestyle is retained here. Liulichang is 750m long with a long history from Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties. Now, there are dozens of shops here, and it is great for those who love Chinese curios, calligraphy, and painting.
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Cheongdam-dong Fashion Street (청담패션거리) Hundreds of years ago, during the Joseon Dynasty (13921910), this area was called “Cheongsutkkol,” referring to a clear, blue pond that shimmered on the floodplains beside the Hangang River. The pond and the surrounding rice fields and farms were paved over as the government built new bridges and streets, relocated offices and built housing blocks there in the 1960s. Construction for the1988 Olympics and the high-rise Trade Tower were followed by a glut of real estate speculation over the last 20 years, and Gangnam has not looked back since. New wealth continued to consolidate in the area in the 1990s, and Cheongdam-dong and Apgujeong-dong solidified their places alongside the Champs-élysées, Rodeo Drive and Fifth Avenue as destinations for luxury brands, cuttingedge art galleries and haute cuisine. Designed by talented local firms and world-renowned architects, much of the interesting architecture here is easy to see on foot. Apgujeong-ro, aka Luxury Brand Street, the main street that bends in a southeasterly direction from Apgujeongrodeo Street to Cheongdam Intersection, is where most of the action is. Further west, the alleys off Dosandae-ro, near Dosan Park, are worth visiting as well.
Shibuya Crossing Rumoured to be the busiest intersection in the world (and definitely in Japan), Shibuya Crossing, is like a giant beating heart, sending people in all directions with every pulsing light change. Perhaps nowhere else says ‘Welcome to Tokyo’ better than this. Hundreds of people – and at peak times said to be over 1000 people – cross at a time, coming from all directions at once yet still managing to dodge each other with a practised, nonchalant agility. The best time to observe the mayhem? A Friday or Saturday night, when hordes of revellers head here for the nightlife. Even better, come when it’s raining to see the skill with which crossers dodge potential collisions with each other’s umbrellas!
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How South Korea found the American Dream Since 2000, South Korea has doubled its per capita GDP and is on target to do it again even quicker, a spurt no other non-oil-striking country can boast. In five years, once you control for purchasing power parity, Korea will have a GDP per capita of R90â&#x20AC;&#x201A;000, giving it a higher standard of living than Italy, Japan, or Spain, and on par with France and the U.K.
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Words by: Daniel Stone Images by: Saveliy Bobov and Hoil Ryu
R
eaders of this magazine know we love a good story about how the world works. Culture drives people, and economics drive culture. Follow the money and you can usually understand how the world is changing, and what the future will look like. Which is why it’s time to look at South Korea, a country you’ll be hearing about much more. Korea is one of few democratic and capitalist countries and Asia, and while the eyes of international media weren’t watching, it has managed to balloon. Since 2000, South Korea has doubled its per capita GDP and is on target to do it again even quicker, a spurt no other nonoil-striking country can boast. In five years, once you control for purchasing power parity, Korea will have a GDP per capita of R90 000, giving it a higher standard of living than Italy, Japan, or Spain, and on par with France and the U.K. (the U.S. GDP is projected to be around R130 000.) This comes, of course, from a country that 60 years ago was crumbling. The Korean War left the country severely depleted, having killed 1 million people and demolishing large chunks of infrastructure. Even today, technically, South and North Korea are still at war, but the two have evolved almost into separate planets, with differences most vividly on display at night from space. How did South Korea do it? A nice confluence of events began with the
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war, which wiped the country clean of entrenched industries and political traditions. A report from Quartz notes that the U.S. spent billions of dollars to quickly improve infrastructure, and stateled industries like manufacturing and electronics initially helped Korea boom in those markets and export abroad. It helped that the war never really ended, keeping people motivated on a singular nationalistic goal and boosting the defense industry. And that’s where the post-war American-style dream comes in. A newly empowered generation was motivated to work extremely hard for the successful future it wanted. On its current path, Korea will continue to attract money, power, and tourism. It has, after all, one of the lowest rates of unemployment in the world—3.0 percent. The big question is whether it can control the region’s instability. A flood of refugees from North Korea would make its per capita GDP plummet. Low birthrates and a high average age could make that growth taper off in the coming decades. And working so hard isn’t good for the human psyche. Just ask their schoolchildren who are, according to one report, some of the least happy in the world. Hard work was the former struggle. Making it last is the new one.
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View of Busan City, South Korea.
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LIFE IS BETTER ENJOYED WITH BAIN’S WHISKEY Inspired by the Cape Mountains and its natural beauty, Bain’s Single Grain Whisky is the first of its kind in South Africa. It pays tribute to the man, Andrew Geddes Bain, who built the Bainskloof Pass that connects the town of Wellington, where our distillery is located, to the interior of the country back in 1853. The success of Bain’s comes down to one, innovative man and his passion for perfection, Master Distiller Andy Watts. In 1991, Andy became only the sixth manager of the home of Bain’s, The James Sedgwick Distillery, since its establishment in 1886. In the quarter century that he’s been there, he has become a world renowned Whisky Master, by winning countless awards and accolades.
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staycomfortable Tips for getting you through the long-haul Words by: Danielle Acoff and Chris Heasman Illustrations by: Jomiro Eming
B
eing seated for 8-or-more hours, in a small metal tube thousands of metres in the sky, can be a tough experience for the mjaority of us. It’s cramped, hot, stuffy, and can get really frustrating if you aren’t looking after yourself properly. But our team has put together a list of things you can do to make your flight with us as comfortable and enjoyable as possible! No more stuff necks and bloated bellies! Make sure you’re doing these few little tricks, and you’ll get off the plane as fresh as you were coming on!
Get creative
Don’t drink
You rarely get the chance to sit down for such a long time, more or less distraction-free, so why not make the most of it? Bring a notebook, a sketchpad, or whatever else you need to give the right-hand side of your brain a workout.
That said, don’t treat booze as a way to cope with your flight. You’ll end up using those horrible bathrooms far more frequently, plus alcohol is dehydrating and will mess up your sleeping pattern. And that’s to say nothing for the hangover. Keep it sensible.
Befriend the crew Simply not being horrible to the flight crew is a given, but you could always go one step further and make an active effort to be nice. (Giving out chocolates never hurts.) Not only will you up your chances of preferential treatment, but you’ll be doing something lovely for the folks who look after you up there.
Adjust your watch It’s important to acclimatize yourself to the time zone of wherever you’re going. As soon as you get on the plane, change your watch to the local time of your destination and then alter your routine accordingly. This will be especially useful inside your scarf tent, which exists beyond the natural constraints of time.
Drink As far as plane-situated recreational activities go, drinking is a pretty good one. Alcohol is usually free on long-haul flights, and, if nothing else, it’ll make the whole affair much more interesting.
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Practice your death glare That child across the aisle from you, running havoc at 30,000 feet? Death glare. The guy behind you who’s been kicking your chair for three hours? Death glare. Those four party animals trying to lead the cabin in a drunken rendition of Dolly Parton’s “9 to 5” at 4 a.m.? Death glare. Hone it. Perfect it. It will serve you well.
Achieve total zen Small issues can feel like major injustices when you’re stuck on a plane, but it’ll all seem insignificant if you keep one thing in mind: once you’re in the air, there’s nothing to be done. You’re on the plane until you get off. Close your eyes, take a breath, and come to terms with this truth, and suddenly the aircraft running out of alcohol won’t seem like such a big problem. Meditation is the best medication, so before you reach for any of your other on-board drugs, try closing your eyes, taking a few deep breaths, and zenning-out.
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stretch! If you make sure you’re stretching regularly, you won’t wake-up with a terrible ache in your back. Here a few triedand-tested stretches that you can do from your seat!
1. Close your eyes, and inhale. Drop your head to your right shoulder, and exhale. Keep breathing through your nose, and begin to drop your head forward. Inhale, chin to chest, and bring your head to the left ear as you exhale. Let your head be heavy—a pendulum swinging from one ear to the other. Do this slowly and mindfully, working out all the kinks in your neck. 2. Inhale, looking straight ahead, and then look to the right as you exhale. Bring your head back to center, and inhale, and then look left as you exhale. Do this for five deep, intentional breaths.
SHOULDERS 1. Bring both arms in front of you, cross your right arm under your left, and then bend both of your elbows, bringing your palms together (Eagle arms, for all you yogis). Begin to lift the elbows up while keeping your shoulders down. Hold this for a few breaths, and repeat on the other side, bringing the left arm on top of the right. 2. Bring both arms above your head, bringing your palms together. Now bend your elbows so your hands fall behind you. Gently look up, put a slight bend in your back, and breathe. You can hold this for five breaths. This is a great one for the upper back, too.
BACK 1. Place your hands on your knees, and begin a seated Cat-Cow: As you inhale, bring your chest forward, and look up, and then exhale, and round your spine, bringing your shoulders forward so that you gaze down at your belly button. I love this one, so I usually do this for about seven to 10 breaths. 2. When you are finished with your Cat-Cow, place your right hand on your left knee and your left hand on the seat, and twist, looking over your left shoulder (trying your best not to breathe in your neighbor’s face). Stay here for a good five breaths before repeating on the other side. Bring your left hand to your right knee, and twist, and look over your right shoulder. Hold, and breathe.
HIPS AND LEGS 1. The seated figure-four is great for releasing your back and hips. Bend your right knee, lift and place your right ankle on your left knee or thigh, and begin to fold at the hips. (Keep that foot flexed!) Repeat on the other side. This one is probably best to do when your neighbor is gone—or you can do it in the back of the plane. 2. Bring one knee to your chest, and at the same time, straighten and flex the other leg as straight as you can. Repeat a few times on both sides. This one is also great to do at the back of the plane by holding the wall and bringing your leg to your chest (just as you would while seated).
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Our in-flight kitchen uses the highest quality ingredients and seasoning, and all the meals are freshly prepared by our qualified gourmet chefs. we cater for any and all dietary requirements, and are ready to offer you our silver-service dining!
FORBREAKFAST Full English spread scrambled eggs, sausage, tomatoes, fruit, croissant & preserves, “Fussy eater” feast fruit, gluten-free croissant, preserves, bran flakes & almond milk
FORLUNCH Light bite fruit, mixed salad, crackers, gouda & tuna-mayo OR cheese-tomato sandwich
Grandmother’s stew chicken, beef (halaal) OR vegetable stew, cous cous, side salad, crackers, gouda & trifle
Lentil cottage pie baked lentils topped with mashed potato, side salad, crackers, preserves & vegan banana bread
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FORDINNER Curry and rice chicken, beef (halaal) OR vegetables, brown rice, baked butternut & cheesecake
Fish and chips A-grade grilled hake fillet, baked potato chips, side of vegetables & a warm brownie with cream
Banting grilled chicken OR beef (halaal), chickpea stew, corn salsa, plain yoghurt & cheesecake
Broccoli pasta Balsamic baked broccoli, wholewheat pasta, side salad, carrot sticks & malva pudding with custard
FORSNACKS Peanuts & raisins (salted and unsalted), Pretzels (salted and unsalted)
...for breakfast, lunch,
AND dinner!
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