“History surrounds the visitor at every turn…”

“History surrounds the visitor at every turn…”

Patricia Sands takes us on a beautiful trip to France. Enjoy!

Bonjour! Allow me to sweep you off to a very special part of the south of France!

Arles, the setting for my novel Drawing Lessons, is a town and commune in the Bouches-du-Rhône department of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region.

Just an hour’s drive from Marseille, the first time my husband and I visited this enchanting town on a day trip from Antibes, I knew I wanted to write a story set here!

History, from Roman times onward, is alive throughout the town. Place de la République, the main square, is a popular gathering place. The centre fountain features a 4th century Egyptian obelisk from Roman times that lay hidden in plain sight for hundreds of years. The square is bordered on one side by Cathédrale St. Trophime and its mystical cloister, built between the 12th and 15th centuries. On the opposite side is the Church of Sainte Anne from the 1600’s and in between is the Hotel de Ville (city hall) which has underground crypts from Roman times to explore.

A few minutes’ walk through narrow medieval streets will bring a visitor to the Roman ruins of the Théâtre Antique and the breathtaking, restored 2,000-year-old amphitheatre, Les Arènes. Both are frequently used for concerts and festivals and always open to visit. I spent many hours on those timeworn stone seats writing and absorbing the ambiance. C’est magique!

There are many other Roman monuments and ruins, including a large part of the original baths, to be found throughout the town. The excellent Museum of Antiquities is a treasure-trove of history and artifacts including an amazing 2000-year-old Roman wooden barge discovered buried under silt at the bottom of the Rhône. A fascinating video shows the entire process from recovery of the barge to restoration. It’s no wonder Arles has been declared a UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE.

Arles is truly a town meant for strolling. History surrounds the visitor at every turn. The lives of generations of inhabitants are reflected in the centuries old townhouses that line winding streets and lanes.

The spirit of Vincent van Gogh lives in this area. He moved to Arles in February 1888 and spent a turbulent year emotionally, not endearing himself to the citizenry but experiencing one of his most prolific years painting. Other artists joined him from time to time, most notably Paul Gauguin for a few months before van Gogh’s psychotic behaviour caused him to leave.

The Fondation Vincent van Gogh is well worth a visit for more information about his work and time in Arles.

Placards showing Vincent’s paintings of the town are strategically placed at the specific locations he painted. There is also an excellent self-guided walking tour that covers all aspects of his work and everyday living.

I love walking these streets in darkened evenings and imagining his life here.

Vincent spent a couple of months in the local hospital, the building and gardens today still remain much as they were at that time. After this, van Gogh left Arles and voluntarily admitted himself to the monastery/asylum of Saint Paul de Mausole in St. Remy de Provence.

Just over a half-hour’s drive south of Arles, is one of the largest wetlands in the world. The Camargue has been home to a famous breed of white for thousands of years. These horses work with black bulls raised in the area and managed by French gardiens (cowboys). Visits to a manarde or ranch to watch the symbiotic connection between these animals is a must.

In the famous ornithological park, thousands of flamingos nest each year. A remarkable sight!

Rice fields, vineyards, lagoons and canals, as well as endless beaches are all part of the landscape that invites visitors year round.

The eclectic fishing town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer tempst visitors with delicious fresh seafood at the many restaurants. Van Gogh painted here as well, fascinated by the enticing alleys, beaches and wooden fishing boats.

The shining jewel of the Camargue is the ancient walled town of Aigues-Mortes. In the 1200’s, King Louis IX departed from here to fight two crusades. At that time the Mediterranean bordered the town before silting up, which in turn allowed for the famous salt flats to evolve.

Be fascinated here by climbing a tall hill of salt and learn how the fleur de sel is still harvested by hand in the same manner as it has been through many centuries.

Is it any wonder I felt compelled to set my novel Drawing Lessons here? How could I resist? After several short visits, my husband and I settled in for a three-week stay while I researched and photographed and enjoyed a most memorable experience. I hope you have enjoyed this visit too!