R A W
Issue 01 April 2017
RAW Real Authentic Women
Inside RAW 6 Health
Designer/Editor’s Note
7-9 Yoga with Carlo 10-11 Why are sunbeds still legal? 12 Other sources of vitamin D 14-15 Cif vs Winni’s
16 Food
17-19 In the raw 20 Golden bread recipe 22-25 Baked
26 Beauty and Fashion Welcome to the first issue of RAW. In this editon, we aim to inspire our readers by exploring more realistic and natural aspects of life. Our values are to live a healthy and open-minded life for the benefit of the environment and humans themselves. We put a lot of time and effort in to this magazine. But most imporantly, we enjoyed every minute of it. We hope you do too! Brodie x
27-28 Transforming skin care 29-30 Other cruelty free products to try 31-32 The rise of vintage 34-35 A Sexual Revolution
36 RAW
37-38 Is it fair to ask women to wear high heels at work? 39 Hidden Figures review 40-45 #NOFILTER 46-49 The Wigbank 50-51 The Hijab - a free choice
Meet the team
Ludovica Muttini Writer
Carla Buscema Writer
Siobhann Dunn Writer
Angela Peralta Writer
Health “Good heath and good sense, are two of life’s greatest blessing.” - Pubillious Syrus
Yoga with Carlo “ANYONE can practice. Young man can practice. Old man can practice. Man who is sick, he can practice. Man who doesn’t have strength can practice. Except lazy people; lazy people can’t practice Ashtanga yoga.” K. Pattabhi Joice. We met Carlo Ferroni, an Italian yoga instructor who moved to Scotland 20 years ago. Carlo started to practise yoga around nine years ago when he booked himself a
freediving course for his 50th birthday and his instructor suggested he tried some yoga as he just had a hip replacement. When he started, he didn’t know that this would have changed him forever. Back then he was overweight, a drinker, a smoker and even though he had a successful career in the information echnology field, he wasn’t happy. He was mildly depressed.
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After starting to practice yoga, Carlo felt an immediate change and gradually, he stopped all his bad habits. He even became vegan. Then three years ago, while he was volunteering with the Samaritans and the suicidal help line, he really started to enjoy helping people. “There was a very precise moment when I came out after a night shift that had been particularly tough because there was this woman, who was very stressed, but when the call ended she was better. She wasn’t gonna kill herself. I asked myself: what am I doing spending 80% of my time doing something I don’t care about at all?” 8
At that point, he decided that even though he was a senior manager in his company, it was time for a change. He had to do something better. Carlo talked with his yoga teacher and he decided to attend a training course in Glasgow with a class called Yoga School. He went to India a few times, where he studied Ashtanga yoga: a type of practice started by K. Pattabhi Jois, an Indian yoga instructor. At the same time, Carlo clarifies that there is a difference between the type of yoga that he practises and the type he teaches, as he says: “The yoga I learned is very physically demanding and I guess it can be very intimidating for people and I want my yoga to be accessible to everybody.” In fact, his classes include people of all ages.
He even has a woman in a wheel chair. All of this is possible because he mainly asks people who attend his classes to listen to their bodies and do what feels right. He adds that in the gym, it’s all about feeling the burn and the pain, but the truth is, there is a thin line between being lazy and not hurting yourself. Nowadays, Carlo teaches yoga regularly in Ayrshire and he has done few different courses for specific situations. For example, he did classes for children with autism and Asperger syndrome. He talks with us about the amazing responses he got, as the supportive learning teachers told him that they had never seen the kids so concentrated or calm. Carlo has also
taught yoga and mindfulness classes for addiction recovery and yoga for cancer care. Although he is aware that yoga can’t cure cancer, he is still amazed by the incredible difference that he has seen in people as they start to accept their disease while dealing better with the therapy they are going through. Having seen all the wonderful work that Carlo has done through yoga and mindfulness, we asked him if yoga is really for everybody. He answered: “If someone can breathe and follow basic instructions, they can do yoga. I am not being funny, this is reality.”
By Carla Buscema 9
Why are sunbeds still legal?
TODAY in the UK, tanning beds are still legal for anyone over the age of 18 to use. Yet, with various statistics highlighting how harmful sunbeds can be, why are they still not completely banned? In 2010, the UK introduced new laws which would restrict under 18s from using sunbeds. This was a result of Cancer Research UK’s campaigning, as studies showed using a sunbed just once before the age of 10
18 doubled your lifetime risk of developing skin cancer. But changing the legal age to use tanning beds doesn’t make any difference to how damaging the ultraviolet rays are to your skin. Figures show that sunbeds contribute a 75% chance in developing melanoma skin cancer in regular users who are younger than 30. Skin cancer appears as a result of UV rays damaging the DNA in skin cells. The UV rays damage those genes that are set there to pro-
tect yourself from skin cancer developing. The sunlight is also a potent immune suppressant, which stops the immune system from working in the skin. To prevent cancer you need an intact immune system. While UV rays from the sun itself are bad enough, Dermatologist Dr Colin Clark, reveals that UV rays from sunbeds are ten times more powerful. It is estimated that 20 minutes on a sunbed can be equivalent to nearly four hours in the sun. Some believe that sun damage is only temporary, however Dr Clark says: “If you do the damage now it doesn’t go away afterwards, it’s permeant. If you damage your skin with sunbeds aged 20, that damage will always be with you and it may not show up until you’re in your forties.” Ultraviolet rays come in two forms – UVA and UVB. Traditionally, UVA is the rays that age your skin and is associated with doing the most damage. UVB is the type that burns your skin, however Dr Clark says that both can do the same job. Most tanning salons now offer stand-up booths as well as being able to lie down. The solar radiated stand-up tanning booths contain a combination of UVA and UVB, whereas lie down beds mostly contain UVA. People tend to lie down in sunbeds for a lot longer as it’s less likely to burn your skin, but just because you haven’t burned doesn’t mean there’s no damage.
and doesn’t burn, although a lot of people that say that they don’t burn clearly do.” Excessive exposure to UV rays can also lead to moles having to get cut out, which Dr Clark says he has had to do frequently. Lynne Beattie from Glasgow had to undergo surgery to remove a small freckle that was on her face when she was just 47. “I went to the doctors after noticing it had gotten darker. They told me that it was turning in to melanoma skin cancer and I had to get it cut out before it got worse,” she says. Lynne admitted this was probably from regularly falling asleep under a tanning canopy that was above her bed when she was younger. Luckily for Lynne the cancer was treated fast, but for others it can be fatal. Skin cancer kills over an estimated 2,500 people each year. Banning the use of sunbeds to all ages or restricting the amount of usage could potentially cut down this number. With the facts already out there, it’s a wonder why more laws haven’t been introduced. Is it because it’s another money making scheme? Or is it because there isn’t enough awareness? The information is there. Find out more at: http://www.cancerresearchuk.org/health-professional/cancer-statistics/statistics-by-cancer-type/ skin-cancer/risk-factors By Brodie Gettins
Furthermore, there are certain skin types which are at a higher risk when exposed to excessive UV rays. Dr Clark says: “The risks of sun damage are more acute in those with the paler skin types and lots of freckles. Most Celtic paled skin Scots are going to be at a much higher risk of skin cancer. You’re more protected if you’ve got skin that tans all the time 11
Other sources of vitamin D Many use the excuse that they need a weekly sunbed for their source of vitamin D. However, you don’t just need to sit semi-naked under UV rays to get it. Vitamin D is food in various foods. Here are five other sources: Cheese While some people avoid cheese because it is known as a ‘fatty’ product, it is actually considered one of the top five sources of VD. Ricotta cheese in particular has proved to be one of the best, containing more than five times the amount than other cheeses. The high quantity of calcium in cheese will also ensure healthy teeth and bones. Supplements According to The Vitamin D Council, other than the sun, supplements are one of the main ways to get sufficient amounts of vitamin D. You can take one tablet per day to provide your daily needs. Supplements can be purchased from shops like Holland and Barrett. Fish Fatty and oily fish such as salmon is one of the best sources of VD. Half a fillet of salmon contains more than the daily recommended quantity for the average person. Other fishes that it is also found in is tuna, which if you eat six ounces daily you’ll gain 12
half of your vitamin requirements. Eating three ounces of mackarel will provide you with 90% of the daily recommended amount. Mushrooms When mushrooms have been exposed to sunlight, they produce vitamin D. Just like skin, mushrooms absorb UV rays from the sun and converts it into the vitamin. It is advised to unwrap mushrooms and leave them outdoors on a sunny day for up to one hour. Just a handful of mushroom added to your dinner can provide a significant boost of VD. Eggs As long as you eat a full egg then you will be provided with up to 41 international units of VD, as much of it lies in the yolk. However, free range eggs provide high levels of VD – three to six times more than normal eggs –, as chickens will have been able to roam about under sunlight. By Brodie Gettins
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Cif vs Winni’s A domestic review FINDING yourself in the household cleaners section in your local supermarket can be a daunting business. You have the option of choosing from a range of prices and products, but is the one that benefits your pocket going to benefit the environment as well? For example let’s compare eco-friendly cleaners and regular household cleaners. We tested two bathroom cleaning products that have the same function, but different effects on the environment. We compared mass production cleaner, Cif, with a brand new and environmentally friendly product, Winni’s Naturel. We live in a society which is increasingly more concerned about the welfare of our environment, from glasshouse effect to chemical pollution. It is necessary to take steps to minimize the impact that some products may have on the environment. Here are two products which both work very well but produce very different results. The chemical ingredients used to create Cif are numerous, they include non –ionic surfactants, which may cause irritant re14
action when applied to the skin and benzisothiazolinone which is toxic for the human immune system and it may be irritant as well for skin, eyes and lungs. As for the packaging, it is made from non-recyclable plastics. Not every cleaning products is furniture friendly, particularly when it comes to marble. Think of the impact these might have when flushed down the sink or toilet, going through the sewer and finally reaching the sea. These chemicals are deadly to both vegetation and animal lives. However, in the case of Winni’s Naturel, both the packaging and the actual liquid are vegan approved, meaning that nothing in this product has
been tested on animals. This is a big plus point for Winni’s. As for the actual cleaning product, Winni’s Naturel is chemical free, and is created from natural oil and vinegar extracts, making it completely friendly to our environment. It is also compliant with the International Eco-dermatologic Association and is skin-friendly. This means that as a result of its natural ingredients, it will not damage our skin in any way. Sometimes it takes very little to create a big change. In this case, choosing an environmentally friendly product like Winni’s Naturel will improve on the life of each of us. The more aware we make the population about the danger of these products, the better is for the environment. (it doesn’t cost the earth) By Ludovica Muttini
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Food “Food is our common ground, a universal experience.” - James Beard
CherryTherapies.com
In the raw WHAT is a healthy diet? Most women often ask this question over and over again, but the truth is, there is probably no such thing as the perfect diet. In fact, some people believe that a healthy diet, might simply be to eat three to five balanced meals per day, while others fully support a vegetarian or vegan life-style. Another emerging trend is the raw food diet. Many describe the raw food diet as a dietary plan where people avoid cooked or processed food as they believe that cook-
ing the food actually destroys some of the natural enzymes in it, forcing the body to overwork by having to produce more of its own enzymes. Lisa Murphy, a hypnotherapist and counsellor who specialises in weight issues, anxiety, and stress-management explains that actually, it is quite complicated to define exactly what the raw diet is, as there are so many versions of it. “It’s difficult to give a good definition of it, but I’d say most would agree that it is a diet which consists predominantly of foods that have not been heated above 40 degrees Celsius.” When
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Lisa Murphy
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CherryTherapies.com
following a raw diet some people like to eat lots of fruits with very little fat, others prefer fruits with a higher fat component and some believe in what is called ‘raw till 4’, in which they eat raw food until 4 o clock, and then have a cooked meal for dinner. Lisa has been on a raw diet since 2003 and she has developed her own style as well, for example, she loves to grow her own food whenever it is possible.
cooked food she used to love and some of her friends found her new lifestyle quite weird. Back then, she didn’t have anyone who was sharing the same choice as her and this just made her feel isolated time over time. She adds: “Nowadays the raw diet is much more mainstream as we have social media with lots of support groups and networks, so it’s much easier for people to connect with other raw foodies.”
Among the benefits of this diet, it is claimed an increase to energy levels, more focus and a production of clearer skin, stronger hair and nails. “I’m sure that everybody has their own unique experience on this diet,” says Lisa, who was able to heal a chronic back pain that she had always attributed to getting older. She also found that her immune system had improved dramatically and as she kept following this dietary plan, she started to have more energy, to sleep better and her periods got lighter and pain-free.
We wondered, is a raw food regime really for everybody? Lisa believes that anybody could follow this diet if really motivated to do so, even though is a quite radical lifestyle. It might be more difficult especially for someone who has a very unhealthy lifestyle and in this case, Lisa’s suggestion is to start slowly by gradually giving up ‘junk’ food and adding more fresh products. Lisa has even created a ‘Ditch The Junkfood’ course to help support people to do this. Social medias surely play as a big help for whoever wants to start this diet and as Lisa affirms: “Nowadays it is much easier than it used to be, as rawfoods and rawfood resources are much more readily available now.”
On the other hand, the raw food diet is not flawless. Critics argue that this dietary plan doesn’t include enough iron or vitamin B12. Lisa experienced her own challenges as well, especially at the beginning when she had to give up a lot of the
By Carla Buscema
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Golden bread recipe A recipe by Lisa Murphy Ingredients
1 cup golden flax seeds, soaked overnight 2 carrots, chopped 2 cups fresh coriander 1 small onion, chopped 1 tablespoon turmeric powder 1 teaspoon cumin powder Juice of 2 limes
Process
Grind flax seeds in food processor, adding a little water. Add all other ingredients and process until smooth (you might need to do them separately from the flax then mix them all together at the end, depending on how efficient your food processor is). Spread the mixture onto 2 non-stick dehydrator sheets, dehydrate for 10 hours, then flip and repeat for 4 hours. If you just want to make wraps then only dehydrate for 2 hours once they are flipped. Or leave them longer if you want to make crackers. Experiment to find the right consistency for you.
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CherryTherapies.com
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Baked!
YOU don’t know which one to choose because they all look amazing. There is a pink one, a brown one and a lighter option for those who will feel guilty. Of course, we are talking about cakes. Rachel Munro began baking at the age of 23 and she hasn’t stopped since. She devel22
oped her passion for baking on a Helpx; a volunteering work program, in the North of France. Coming back to Scotland, she discovered that she was intolerant to wheat, gluten and dairy, some of the main ingredients she was using to make her cakes; but this didn’t stop her. “It was really hard to find some-
thing I could eat, especially fresh cakes and bakery items, so I start creating my own cakes and sweets at home,” she says. Rachel admits working on recipes was one of her biggest challenges. “At first I started experimenting with cake ideas that had long been established, switching products
that weren’t gluten free with alternative ones and eventually, I found myself with a bunch of really great cakes at the end of it”. She started wholesaling ‘free from’ cakes using those recipes and that is what she has been doing since two and half years when she launched her business. 23
and the rest have mixed foods to which they are allergic to or cannot eat for medical reasons. If are you guilty of day dreaming over pictures of cakes, like we all do, and you wish there was an artisan baker nearby, worry no more. BAKED is coming to town! Rachel’s project is still under way but she is planning to open ‘BAKED’ in May at 13, Old Bridge Street in Ayr. Rachel decided to take a big step up by opening her own place called ‘BAKED’. She says: “I want to provide options for people with food allergies, intolerances, ibs and other medical conditions.” She continues saying: “I have been working on a new menu for the past couple of months: not only will there will be cakes but also breads, pastries and pies. All day brunch is going to be an option with fresh sandwiches, soups, small deli plates including salads and quiche and a hot plates available.” Baked is going to be one of the first ‘free from’ bakeries in all of Ayr and possibly in all of Ayrshire as well; for instance, there have been some people criticizing Rachel’s work saying that she started the business just because it was ‘trendy’. How24
ever, she confesses: “The real passion behind it was to help people, like myself, who don’t have much access to freshly baked sweets and treats.” At the same time, Rachel is aware that she is supported by many of her previous costumers as half of them are coeliac, about a quarter vegan
By Ludovica Muttini
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Beauty and Fashion “I always find beauty in things that are odd and imperfect , they are much more interesting.� - Marc Jacobs
Transforming skin care By Angela Peralta
GEORGINA Ripolles is from Barcelona but has travelled all around the world and has been working with skin products companies for most of her career. Now, she has decided to start her own business. For the past year she has been working on her own skincare brand which she describes as revolutionary. The name of the products cannot be said yet as it is still confidential but the release is planned to come up this year. When we asked what inspired her to start this Project, Georgina said: “In the lab I work in, we always had men and women from different races that came looking for creams specifically made for them that would work for their skin type, as the ones that were in the market would not help them. My first experience with these costumers was a woman from Mali that told us that prestigious creams provoked pimples on her skin and took the glow away from it.
“The chemists in the lab started to investigate her case and discovered that every skin type has genetic characteristics depending on its race and they have a particular way of metabolizing the cream’s ingredients. After she tried the formula we created for her, the results on her skin were amazing; it was bright, uniform and all the flakes had disappeared. We were surprised and we thought we should commercialize the product to help other people with the same problems,” she continued. We asked her how she would describe her new brand: “Our brand is a new concept because it does not use stores as a temple to sell our products, as we will be exclusively online. We want to achieve a direct communication with each costumer. We know that everyone has a particular kind of skin and we want to produce a cream for each phenotype, for each skin type. When the person enters our website they will be asked some
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questions about their skin and the product that they are looking for. We will then retrieve all the details needed to create the perfect cream for them.”
ent races in the world, and also because everyone’s skin is different and deserves a more personalized treatment,” Georgina says.
The brand also considers itself to be ethical, not tested on animals and its products are made with natural ingredients. “Its spirit has strong ethical values behind it. What we want to challenge is the fact that most of the creams produced are aimed for white people, which is not fair because there are millions of people from differ-
To conclude the interview she added: “We do not use photoshopped images of models. Our project is based on our experience and on real people, and we want to take the best of everyone’s natural expression of beauty.”
FEELING YOUNGER CREAM HIGHLIGHTERLUSH Feeling Younger is a cream highlighter that’s supposed to be applied on to your skin before your make up and gives luminosity and glow to your face. You can also apply it to your cheekbones after you finish your make up to obtain a subtile glow. This product is made with aromatic essences and coaco butter to take care of your skin.
KIKO SMART FUSION LIPSTICK The lipsticks from this range are very creamy and easy to apply. Although the lipstick will not last a full night on your lips, it is a good quality for such a low price and can be found in a beautiful range of colors.
Other cruelty free products to try No matter if you are a make up fan or you just use make up once in a while you will probably not know that many of the brands you use test their products on animals. Some of these brands include MAC, Maybelline, Max Factor and L’Oreal. Luckily everyday, more make up brands choose not to experiment on animals and there is options for any preferences or budgets. Here are nine make up products from cruelty-free brands that you need to have! By Angela Peralta
ALL DAY LUMINOUS WEIGHTLESS FOUNDATION NARS This foundation has a really light-weight finish in the skin, has a long-lasting coverage throughout the day and brings a lot of luminosity to your face. It is perfect for an every day make up look.
NAKED SKIN LIQUID CONCEALER - URBAN DECAY This is a liquid concealer that is easy to apply and gives a natural but full coverage, perfect for those mornings after a bad night’s sleep.
Turn over for more! 29
BETTER THAN SEX MASCARA - TOO FACED Its name speaks for itself: It is better than sex! This mascara adds a lot of volume to your lashes and gives them a really intense black colour.
MINERAL TRANSLUCENT LOOSE POWDER - ZAO This translucent loose powder are mineral and organic. Applied after your foundation they give a matte finish and sets your make up into your skin. Some of the ingredients are rice powder and cacao butter to keep your skin young and glowy.
SOFT MATTE CREAM LIPSTICK NYX
These drugstore liquid lipsticks have a really creamy texture and are easy to apply. When they dry down you are left with beautiful long-lasting matte finish lips. They do not dry your lips too much and there is a wide range of colors for any taste and occasion. These liquid lipsticks are affordable and a perfect way to spice up your make up look any time.
TARTELETTE IN BLOM EYESHADOW PALETTE - TARTE
This eyeshadow palette is just as perfect for a smokey eye night look as it is for a natural eye look for the day. The shadows are really easy to blend and they last for hours.
INSTAIN BLUSH - THE BALM
These blushes are really pigmented and give a beautiful touch of color to your skin. They last all day long and you can choose among six different shades.
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The rise of vintage SHOPPING in vintage or charity shops has become a popular trend in the past few years as you can find unique pieces of clothing for a really good price. Charity shops sell clothes that have already been used and have been donated by someone else. The profit that they make from their sales usually goes to a good cause. For example, the investigation of serious diseases like cancer or to help children in need. It is also beneficial for the planet and more ethical to recycle and to buy secondhand clothes. The production of clothes severely contaminates the environment as most of the factories that do it are located in third world countries which are not regulated by any laws against global warming. Big companies take advantage of that and choose to produce their goods in the cheapest way which is also the most damaging for the environment. By buying new clothes you are contributing to working exploitation. As said before, many of the biggest clothing brands choose to have their factories in third world countries, such as or India, as in their countries of origin regarding the environment or worker´s rights so making their products there is cheaper. Factory workers are treated in a very different way that we are treated by 31
our employers. The workers are paid a very small salary that just allows them to survive in really poor circumstances. They work for hours without breaks and in really unsafe and unhealthy premises and they can be in their job for endless shifts. But the most upsetting fact is that children are exploited too and their childhood is taken away from them. Some tips to buy in these kind of shops is to research the charity or vintage shops that are in your area and also try to figure out when they include new products during the week so that you do not keep seeing the same ones every time you go. It is also important not to go when they are too busy as for you to buy clothes you like is gonna take a little bit if time and you cannot go through all the rags when it is full of costumers. If you like to personalize your clothes and doing DIYs these shops are perfect for you
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as you can buy clothes at a really good price and experiment with them as much as you need. Lastly, do not buy things just because they are from a designer’s brand. Buy whatever you see yourself wearing and makes you feel comfortable, do not just choose something because it looks expensive cause chances are you are not going to give it much use. Buying clothes from vintage and charity shops is beneficial for the environment. It is one way to stop supporting brands that do not trade fairly and it is also good for your pocket, so you should try to reduce your purchases in new items by starting to buy seconded handed clothes and start donating your own. By Angele Peralta
Mr Ben’s Retro Shop Glasgow Kings Court, 101 King St, Glasgow G1 2RB 0141 553 1936
Starry Starry Night 19 Dowanside Ln, Glasgow G12 9BZ 0141 337 1837
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A Sexual R “SINCE a young age I have had a whimsical personality and through fashion I found a way to express who I am.” This is how Ludovico Torri likes to describe himself. Ludovico is a young and talented Italian student, who currently studies at the New York Film Academy of Los Angeles. He is working to become an actor but his biggest dream is working in fashion. Driven by his passion, he created his first clothing line, called ltgoldstandard. His collection is all about luxurious pyjama style clothes, to be comfortable yet elegant in every occasion. “The idea of my pyjamas is that you can always wear them, from morning to night. What is important is changing accessories so to transform completely your look.” He adds: “My pyjamas are unisex; that is why my campaign is called a ‘Sexual Revolution’. On the other hand, when shooting my campaign, with Francesco Licata, a photographer who worked for Vogue, I noticed they fit better on a female body. It is undeniable how a woman’s shape can turn everything up side down, even when she it not wearing anything!” Ludovico believes that women would be more attracted to his collection than men. “Women are always aware of the latest trends and they buy more! That for sure will benefit my line,” he says. 34
Revolution His idea is to start off selling online and step-by-step, he is looking forward to get inside shops he likes and represent his style. The entire collection is one size only and can fit many people, as there is an elastic band that lets you tighten and widen the trousers, as you like, while the shirt is oversized style. What makes these ‘pyjamas’ unique is the choice of fabrics used to produce them and the hand made elaboration. Ludovico started to design them by himself two years ago. He was looking for something more comfortable and light to wear during the summer and he came up with this ‘pyjama’ style idea. In fact, the first ones he created were made of cotton and linen, whereas now he is going towards velvet and silk. “The idea is to play with materials to create something unique, and that is why I am always on the hunt for vintage fabrics. Quality is my priority so every set of pyjama is handmade in Italy with either particular Carrara marble’s or nacre’s buttons.” Ludovico aims to launch his collection ‘Sexual Revolution’ at the end of May. While waiting, you can have a look at his online website on: ltgoldstandard.com By Ludovica Muttini 35
RAW Real Authentic Women
“No one is you and that is your power.” - Anonymous
Is it fair to ask women to wear high heels at work? “HIGH pain,”
heels -
are a pleasure with Christian Louboutin.
The famous styles, Christian Louboutin, forgot to add that this bittersweet pleasure should be a free choice for all women. As most of us know, high heels nowadays are very popular among the female public, but no woman should be forced to wear them as they aren’t the most comfortable accessorise. A clear example is the story of Nicola Thorp, a London receptionist who was sent home without her pay as she refused to wear high
heels at work. She felt that this treatment was highly unfair, especially as she got laughed at when she asked if a man would be expected to do the same shift in heels. At this point, Nicola decided to start a petition so that no other women would ever be in the same situation again and she got 150.000 signatures. We spoke with the MP and Shadow Minster Gill Furniss, who gave a speech on the matter in Westminster Hall just last March. Mrs Furniss says that despite the introduction of quality laws, men are women are still not treated in the same way in the workplace. For 37
instance, a woman gets usually paid £12.82 per hour, while a man £14.16. Asking female workers to wear a full face of makeup and high heels is just another proof of the discrimination that many women still have to deal with in the 21st century. In addition, he researchers conducted after the petition launched by Nicola Thorp, show that a lot of women found the dress codes that require them to wear high heels “humiliating and degrading” and the effects on the psychological well-being of female workers are worrying. Mrs Furniss says that there is no real practical function to the wearing of high heels and it shouldn’t be mandatory in workplaces. She adds: “Evidence from the College of Podiatry reveals that there is a strong body of clinical evidence against wearing high heels for prolonged periods. However, in some professions, standing in high heels for
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the duration of an eight-hour shift is the norm.” So if your employer asks you to wear high heels at work, should you do it? The Equality Act 2010 is clear on the matter, sections 39 and 41 prohibit direct discrimination: “They…specifically state that employers must not discriminate as to the terms of employment, or indeed by subjecting an employee to any detriment at work.”
By Carla Buscema
A film review by Siobhann Dunn
THE film, based on a true story, takes viewers through a compelling journey ofthe ‘computers in skirts’, with a message of gender and race divide in the sixties. Hidden Figures, released in February, is more than just a film about sassy, African- American mathematician females at work. The story is one that has arguably defined both females and African-Americans place in intellectual roles while working at NASA during the famous ‘Space Race’. Katherine Johnston, Mary Jackson and Dorothy Vaughan, all work in underqualified roles at NASA. In a white, male, dominated environment the ladies endure many challenges during their workdays. During the film, director, Theodor Melfi, keeps the film fast paced weaving in and out the character’s work and home lives and keeps the setting strong with brightly coloured outfits, vintage cars and references to post-war the scene of times past. The film portrays unfairness and inequality to the characters for both their race and gender though the racism is magnified as the film dips in and out
the character’s home lives’. One scene, in particular, on a bus where black adults with their children sit at the back beneath a sign saying ‘Blacks Only’. For a generation of viewers this may be a shock though reality is this was the norm fifty years ago, from this aspect, the director gets its right, the scene is both shocking and emotionally gripping. Despite the divide in all aspects of their lives’ they soon start becoming noticed. While all hands are on deck desperately trying to find a possible journey and safe landing on the moon, NASA has increasing pressure from competitors Russia, who simply ‘get there first’! The desperation leads them to discover that the brains behind their journey, is not only in a skirt and already working among them, but she is African-American, the same African American that has to run half a mile each day to use the toilet because there are no ‘black’ toilets in the building which she works-Katherina Johnston. The film industry has many stories about both space and race issues out now, though this one is one like no other educational insight into the era which space exploration started. The film is both entertaining, heart-warming and inspirational. A film for anyone who everdreamed for a fairer life! 39
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#NOFILTER By Siobhann Dunn
DUO Emma Diamond and Donna McGowan, from Renfrewshire, started a campaign of female empowerment opposing unrealistic images seen regularly on media outlets, in particular- social media. They named it - #nofilter. Both working in image-conscious industries, as they had worked with models and had seen first-hand the pressure put on both model and photographer to make them appear slimmer, curvier, tanned and flawless, to fit in with the publisher’s requests. After time, they became tired and frustrated at this process and agreed a change must happen. Emma suggested they host their own photoshoot that anyone could take part in, with no criteria of height, shape or size. The only criteria volunteers needed was the want to change their opinion of themselves for the better. Hairstylist Emma explains: “I work as a hairstylist and often work on photoshoots. I was noticing that people were becoming very reliant on the use of photo shop. Models who already looked great were being airbrushed to the point of being barely recognised. The issue with this is that people viewing these false images then compare themselves to them. There is a great quote that sums it up ‘you can’t ever look like the girl in the magazine, cause the girl in the magazine doesn’t even look
like her.’” She continues: “So I had the idea to host a photo shoot using everyday people, and no editing or false lighting. I wanted to show what ‘real people’ looked like. I had worked with Donna on photo shoots in the past, and she had a great natural photography style, so I asked her to come on board with the project.” The team invited volunteers, that had struggled with their image, to have unfiltered pictures in their underwear taken and planned to help them with their body worries. “One of the things that stuck out to me the most was how easy it was for people to be negative towards themselves and how difficult some found it to say nice things about themselves, it reiterated how much a big deal this is, in today’s society,” Donna explained. The pair explained that these images are easily available on social media apps such as Instagram, which has a monthly following of 14 millions in the UK and 600 millions globally. Users as young as 13 are allowed access; this could be a concern for the next generations’ awareness of what is a realistic body image. The concern no longer lies at gravely slim females walking down catwalks at London Fashion Week, the influence is online 24/7-unavoidable to the vast growing screen-generation and it is worse because not only are people faking their body image; they are faking their whole life. 41
Donna comments on the free usage of editing apps: “I don’t think it should be promoted as much as it is, it’s encouraging people in a negative light.” When asked what she would say to users/viewers of online images such as the ones discussed, she replies: “Don’t compare your life to others or start to believe that your life isn’t as good or interesting, be able to be happy for others, rather than think that you have to do better.” Despite the online threat, people continue to use and abuse the outlets. Donna McGowan explains why misuse of editing 42
tools can be detrimental to people’s perception of themselves as she continues: “People have the freedom to edit themselves as they wish, however when people start to edit their appearance because they’re trying to prove they are something different or ‘better’, that’s when it becomes an issue. These people feel they need to hide behind a filter or change their appearance to fit in with a ‘society norm. That’s a shame, isn’t it?” Emma caries on by adding: “Of course now this type of software is readily available to everyone through apps such as Instagram, where people can edit their own pictures to
this same level. The issue with this is that people viewing these false images then compare themselves to this unrealistic representation.” Donna admits she uses editing devices, though sticks to minimum usage. She explains that this helped her work during the campaign: “The campaign confirmed how much I love to capture people and their character through photographs. I have always used minimal editing to my photographs anyway, so if anything, it made me enjoy the process so much more because the focus is always on the person in the
photo.” Emma explains how the campaign quickly grew overnight and gained interest from both the public and the press leading the team to host a second one. “Once we had held our first photo shoot, we held a small exhibition to show the results and started up a Facebook page. People started liking and sharing the page very quickly and we received a lot of lovely encouraging messages. The press got in touch, printed our story and we were interviewed on STV Glasgow’s Riverside Show. We decided to hold a second photo shoot and advertised that we were looking for volunteers, we had over 130 people get in touch!” she added. 43
As the campaign grew, so did the opinion of their volunteers and followers. “Hearing the beautiful and honest feedback from some of our volunteers, and from supporters of the campaign about how they have managed to be more comfortable in their own skin and appreciate their own beauty from taking part in the campaign is exactly the reason we started it in the first place,” Donna says. When asked what to expect next from the #nofilter movement Emma explained: “We hope to hold another exhibition at some point this year and we are working towards building up new material for this.”
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The Wig
FOR women suffering from hair loss, the physical and mental effects are bad enough. Buying a wig can also prove to be a challenging time, as they don’t come cheap. When Agnes Lennox experienced hair loss and was upset with the cost and treatment of buying a wig, she decided to make a change. Agnes Lennox from Edinburgh, was first diagnosed with breast cancer in 2003. After discovering that she would need to buy a wig as a result of losing her hair from chemotherapy treatment, she was devastated. The cost of 46
Agnes having to replace her hair was rounding up to the hundreds, and at this point the NHS did not offer free wigs. Despite her husband offering to buy her one for her birthday, this was a present she simply did not want. When the time came for Agnes to pick her first wig, she felt that the nominated supplier of wigs treated her incredibly unfairly. Agnes’ sister, Elizabeth Cameron recalls the first time they went wig shopping: “She felt that she was treated unsympathetically. I was there with her and felt like they
gbank
By Brodie Gettins
were talking to me rather than to her. She found that really impersonal and terrible.” For a lot of people, losing their hair is the most daunting side effect of cancer treatments. The psychological impact can badly damage ones self-esteem, as your hair is an important aspect of your identity. Culturally, almost every society associates a fine head of hair with beauty and good health. It is of no wonder why choosing a wig can be a delicate experience. Cancer treatments aren’t the only cause for hairloss. Other conditions that may lead to
losing hair include; alopecia, pregnancy, anorexia and thyroid disorders, to name a few. After Agnes’ first and insensitive experience of wig shopping, she wondered what happens to all of the unwanted wigs that people have once bought but no longer need. “Most people would say they really just go to the bottom of the wardrobe. People don’t really want to throw them out but they don’t have any need for them anymore,” Elizabeth says. This lead to Agnes setting up the countries first ever Wigbank in 2003. 47
The Wigbank would allow people to donate wigs they have once needed but no longer have use for anymore, helping others battling cancer buy them at an affordable price. Agnes would then wash, disinfect and trim the synthetic haired wigs before selling them for as little as £20, and as high as £50. “A lot of wigs donated were hardly worn or never worn at all. Some of the price tags were still on some of them and they in to the hundreds,” Elizabeth revealed. “Real haired wigs aren’t necessarily more expensive than synthetic hair, but ethically I prefer synthetic as you just don’t know where real hair is coming from. Synthetic hair is also much easier to look after,” she added. With the money raised
from the Wigbank, Agnes would donate £5 of each sale to cancer charity Maggie’s Centre. Agnes’ work extended across the UK to 13 other locations including; Shropshire, Gloucestershire, Lincolnshire and Hull & East Reading. In 2006, she won the ‘Bighearted Scot of the Year’ award as a result of her commitment to the Wigbank. The category that the award was under was made specifically for her. Later on, she was then nominated for an OBE/MBE. But sadly, Agnes lost her battle to cancer in 2011 at 54 years old before she had the chance to achieve this. Agnes’ sister, Elizabeth, explains that her legacy will live on through the Wigbank, as she will carry on the work that Agnes once done. Working with other charities now, such as Cancer McMillian, the Wigbank offers help and advice if they are needing wigs. “Most of the charities use me as a way to get rid of their wigs that they are donated, because they really don’t know what to do with them and most of them are really old,” Elizabeth says. Now, she is considering helping college students who are training to become hairdressers by giving some of the wigs to colleges as she has so many. Elizabeth says her younger sister was a “much loved and much missed person… She was inspirational really, to a lot of people.”
Agnes Lennox
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The Hijab THE hijab is worn around the globe as a religious expression of modesty. In Muslim culture, it is common for females to adopt the covering of their head upon reaching adolescents. Though there is confusion surrounding what really influences a female to hide her hair; is it for religion and culture or fear of exclusion? Umza Rashid, from London, explains: “I started wearing my hijab later in life. I live and work in a very, English, upper class area and I was worried my clients wouldn’t accept it. The response I got was very positive.” She continues: “My mum and dad educated us and as they have gotten older, they became more religious rather than traditional and told me to do it in my own time.” Umza works for MAC makeup, her work is image based, wearing her hijab is a sign of modesty, yes, but that doesn’t stop her from using the products and being an ambassador for the global brand. Her dedication to the hijab means she wears it to all occasions, even weddings. “I always wear it to these events. Just because it is so part of me. So instead of getting my hair done I would go and get a new hijab and make it funky and fun. Some people don’t and that’s fine but I think it depends why you are wearing it, I don’t wear it for fashion I wear it for religion,” she concludes.
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a free choice Zarina Husain from Glasgow was brought up with a Muslim father and Catholic mother, who both had strong religious values. “My mum sent me to Catholic primary school, my dad had a woman teach me the Qa’ran and Arabic every Sunday for years though neither religion was forced on me,” she says. Zarina goes onto explain that at family occasions she felt left out, because she has never worn a hijab: “At family get togethers I would be the only one without a headscarf or two-piece suit, that was popular back then. I felt left out and I wanted to be part of it all. But day to day I wouldn’t have worn a headscarf, I would have felt daft to be honest and my dad never once asked me to.” She adds: “If I ever cover my head, it’s in the mosque as a mark of respect, but no, I wouldn’t wear one now, I would only do it for religious reasons.” Umza can and does wear the hijab, Zarina can and doesn’t, Muslim religion allows them a free choice. One to make themselves and that, is truly liberating. By Siobhann Dunn
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A special thank you to Carlo Ferroni - Yoga instructor Dr. Colin Clark - NHS Greater Glasgow Lynne Beattie - Retail worker Lisa Murphy - Hypnotherapist and counsellor Rachel Munro - Baker Georgina Ripolles - Skin care specialist Ludovico Torri - Fashion designer MP Gill Furniss - Shadow Minister for Steel, Postal Affairs and Consumer Protection Emma Diamond - #NOFILTER founder Donna McGowan - #NOFILTER founder Elizabeth Cameron - Wigbank worker Umza Rashid - Salon owner and makeup artist Zarina Husain - Makeup artist
RAW Real Authentic Women
“One day she discovered that she was fierce, and strong, and full of fire, and that not even she could held herself back bacause her passion burned brighter than her fears.� -Marc Anthony
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