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New York Mercedes Benz Fashion Week By Daniel Valverde and Andrea Horne
46 Tribute to Diane Pernet By Myra Postolache
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New York Mercedes Benz Fashion Week By Tony Von Thelen and Adrielyn Christi
114 Paris Fashion Week By Yuji Watanabe
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132 Augustin Teboul- Sounds of Black Interview by Florenta Popa
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David Ghandi photographed by Eddie Lawless
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42 Interview with Ilaria Niccolini By Adrielyn Christi
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Rad Hourani Couture By Cameron Carpenter/ Images by Yuji Watanabe
106 Interview with Tom Rebl By Florenta Popa
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MARGARET HOWELL
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Introduction to MARGARET HOWELL Margaret Howell is a contemporary British clothing designer who has worked successfully in men’s and women’s clothing. Howell has been a strong, if quiet, presence in British design for over four decades. After graduating from a fine art degree at Goldsmiths’ College, London in 1969, Howell started making accessories. Her hand-made beads and knitted accessories came to the attention of Vogue and other fashion magazines, encouraging her to go onto designing clothes. Margaret found inspiration in the fine make and fabric of a man’s shirt, she used quality shirting usually issued for formal wear, but making it up into a softer, less traditional shirt. Howell started her business from a modest flat in Blackheath, South East London. It was an immediate, if somewhat unexpected, success. As the business expanded, Howell added a workshop, located on the Old Dover Road in Blackheath. Early customers were Paul Smith, Ralph Lauren, Browns and Joseph Ettedgui. This led to Ettedgui entering into a partnership with Howell, funding the first dedicated men’s shop in South Molton Street, London in 1976. The number of women who bought from the shop prompted the introduction of designs for both men and women. The first independently owned Margaret Howell shop opened in St Christopher’s Place, London in 1980 after the franchise with Ettedgui came to an end. The early 1980s were a period of expansion for the label, with a license signed with Washo, Tokyo to manufacture and sell Margaret Howell designs in Japan. In 2002 the company moved its London offices and prime shop to Wigmore Street, designed collaboratively with architect William Russell. The retail space sells men’s and women’s clothing collections, accessories, books and furniture. Howell uses the Wigmore Street shop to stage exhibitions that draw attention to aspects of British design. They have included displays of Anglepoise lamps, Robert Welch cutlery, and Ernest Race furniture. This has extended to include architecture including Span Housing. Howell is a committed supporter of Open House – the charity that promotes access to notable buildings throughout the UK – and in association with them and the RIBA. In 2007 Howell was made a Royal Designer for Industry by the Royal Society of Art and was awarded a CBE for services to the fashion industry. In 2010 she was awarded an Honorary Doctorate from University of the Arts London; in 2013, Howell was awarded an Honorary Professorship from the University for the Creative Arts. Margaret Howell is now sold worldwide with flagship shops in London, Paris, Florence and Tokyo and has more than 100 outlets throughout Japan. Margaret`s portrait by Jill Kennington. Trend Privé Magazine 9
Photo: Fedor Borodin Model: Ekaterina Spivak Style: Viola Velvet MUAH: Sasha Vasilyeva Anastasiya Kuchugova baud from Sofie Helet’s lace; Gucci shoes; Chanel earrings
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Anastasiya Kuchugova lacy top and skirt; Gucci shoes; Maria Black Trinity gold earrings; Charlotte gold bracelet
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Celine suit from silk (Rai showroom); Made Imwe bangle bracelet
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Anastasiya Kuchugova dress from cotton and silk; Kurt Geiger shoes
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Anastasiya Kuchugova dress from cotton and silk
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New York Mercedes BeNz FAsHIoN week By Daniel Valverde, of the Green Valley Photography and Andrea Horne
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RUNWAY REPORT By: Andrea Horne Photography by: Daniel Valverde, of the Green Valley Photography www.greenvalleyphoto.biz https://www.facebook.com/GreenValleyPhoto INSTAGRAM: greenvalleyphotography
ASIA FASHION COLLECTION Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center The Asia Fashion Collection was a showcase of six emerging designers from Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. The designers were selected from local showcases and contests by the Korean Fashion Association, the Taiwan Textile Federation, and the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. The Fall 2015 collections of Athena Chuang, TSUBASA SHINYO, ZOKUZOKUB, old honey, Noirer, and NelsonBlackle were selected to show their collections. In addition to their appearance at MBFW, the designers are part of an incubator project where they will be a part of exhibitions and other promotional events throughout Asia. This was an exciting runway show full of innovative and interesting designs. VENEXIANA Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center Designer Kati Stern’s fifty five look Fall/Winter 2015 collection glided down the runway full of exquisite gowns. The main fabrics used were tool, jersey, mohair, silk, and velvet in mixed metallic shades of gold, bronze, and silver. Many of them had an added sparkle with crystal details and sequins. Kati is known for her exquisite gowns with couturier craftsmanship since she launched the line in 2003. The hair was a modern Marie Antoinette style crafted by Matthew Curtis for TRESemme. Dani Fonseca’s makeup team created eyes like a goddess using silver metallics on the lid, exaggerated lashes, and bronze shading on the temples into the hairline. Beautiful stilettos by Nina completed the look for an all-out gown town extravaganza. VIVIENNE HU Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center Vivienne Hu started her career in the financial markets on Wall Street but soon realized that design was her true calling. So she quickly changed careers and enrolled at Parsons- the New School for Design, debuted her first collection in 2012, and opened her own boutique in 2013. After a highly successful runway show during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in September 2014, she returned in February 2015 to present her Fall collection. The palette consisted of off white, olive, blue, and red. My favorite piece was the asymmetric olive skirt with woven straps that extended down past the hemline. All of her garments are wearable and can easily transition from day to night. The models’ hair was modern and slicked back on the sides with a brown smoky eye and nude lip. It is evident that Vivienne is a smart and focused woman and her clothing line embodies that same type of woman. I had the pleasure of meeting and interviewing her backstage before she presented her latest collection in the Pavilion at Lincoln Center. AH: What was your inspiration for this collection? VH: Wagner’s famous opera Die Walkure. The Valkyrie can speak to birds and we used that through the collection. There are some reds, lots of blue and beige, black and gray. AH: Tell me more about your Fall 2015 collection. VH: The looks have a variety of textures and colors, with some prints we developed and invented. We made a three layer fabric, and a lace-covered wool. The garments are elevated with high quality fabrics that give dramatic drape, too. The collection has a total of forty-six different looks. AH: Describe the Vivienne Hu brand in 3 words. VH: Sleek, Sophisticated, Sharp. AH: You were born in China, attended college in Germany, and now live in New York. How do you blend the three cultures into your clothing line? VH: In China I was influenced by my dad’s art collection. He was always bringing traditional Chinese paintings into our home. While I studied in Europe I was influenced by my surroundings. Going to school in a palace, at Hohenheim
University, was incredibly influential. And the New York woman’s versatile style always influences me. AH: If you could dress any celebrity who would it be? VH: Jennifer Lawrence, the star of the Hunger Games, since she is a strong woman and plays strong roles in films. DAVID TLALE Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center South African designer David Tlale is known for making strides on and off the runway since launching his brand in 2003. He has won such accolades as the Africa Fashion Awards Designer of the Year, Best Designer by the Sunday Times, and is an ambassador for the Change-4-Ever Campaign which strives to reduce poverty. His collection included men’s and womenswear for his sixth appearance at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Model/actor Tyson Beckford and Sudanese supermodel Nykhor Paul opened and closed the show. The featured pattern was a grey and mauve swirl that looked like moving marble on the runway. Many of the garments were exquisitely draped and he used fringe, feathers, and leather trim as accent details. David also included all black and neutral outfits. Overall, they looked sexy, effortless, and chic. CUSTO BARCELONA Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center Brothers Custo & David Dalmau have been designing trendy fashion for over 30 years that has been worn by celebrities like Julia Roberts, Penelope Cruz, and Brad Pitt. The clothing line is known for its interesting mix of patterns and always stays true to its own design style. Their Fall/Winter 2015 collection entitled ‘Shake Before Use’ consisted of men’s and womenswear made of fine wools, mohair, and silk in black and grey accented with red, blue, and brown. The runway was full of oversized wool coats with mini-skirts and tall boots for women. A tailored trouser with sweaters and turtlenecks reminiscent of silent films was the theme for the menswear. Bernat Buscato, their runway stylist for the show, paired traditional plaids with ethnic and geometrics prints which were both modern and re-inventive. To complete their outfits, models wore cool eyewear by Opticalia for Custo Barcelona that had square frames with yellow tinting and mirroring. CAROLINA HERRERA Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center Carolina Herrera has been making waves in the fashion world for the last thirty five years and her Fall 2015 collection was no exception with stunning designs by inspired by water. Supermodel Karlie Kloss opened the show in a cocktail dress and then took her finale walk in an off the shoulder gown and both garments had beautiful yet abstract flowing water patterns. Several other dresses in the show had prints that looked like water droplets and reflections of a lake. All 46 looks were wearable and chic and provided something for everyone with a combination of work separates, cocktail dresses, and gowns. As always, the Carolina Herrera show had a star studded front row with attendees such as Anna Wintour & Grace Coddington from Vogue Magazine, NY Times Photographer Bill Cunningham, and designer Ivanka Trump. Overall the collection was classy and stylish just like Carolina herself. ALICE & OLIVIA New York Fashion Week- Prince George Ballroom Clothing and accessories line Alice & Olivia is known for its dazzling presentations during New York Fashion Week and this was no exception. Designer Stacey Bendet’s Fall 2015 collection was inspired by London in the 1960’s and 70’s. There were many shift dresses, long coats, and wide leg pants that were popular in this era. Over forty looks were presented where each model wore a combination of well styled separates, shoes, and handbags. One of the primary colors of the collection was Marsala which is Pantone’s Color of the Year 2015. It’s a rich burgundy hue that comments grey, black, and gold. The manicures, by Sophia Marques for Nails, Inc., were a shimmery gunmetal color that enhanced the metallic details in the garments’ beading and embroidery. Stacey says “This season is about personal expression. It is about bold femininity. It is about glamour. The clothes have a true rock and roll vibe while being simultaneously very romantic.” You could see the attention to detail in the set design that included bookcases, a chaise lounge, and oversized urns. The presentation was packed with New York City trendsetters and socialites who loved every look.
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FTL MODA
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center FTL Moda is an international fashion collective founded by Ilaria Niccolini in 2007. Their New York Fashion Week debut featured designers Hendrik Vermeulen from South Africa, Rozalia Bot from Romania, and Italy’s Landi Accessories and Antonio Urzi. After each designer presented their own work, the finale segment entitled “Loving You” included disabled models from around the world. This was in collaboration with London’s Models of Diversity and Italy’s Fondazione Vertical. Models in wheel chairs graced the runway and looked absolutely stunning. English male model and fitness trainer, Jack Eyers, was the first amputee to walk the runway at Lincoln Center. This was a welcomed change since New York Fashion Week has been criticized for its lack of diversity. German makeup artist Einat Dan applied unique makeup and body painting that enhanced and completed the designs. Overall, the FTL Moda show was innovative, inspiring, and entertaining as there was never a dull moment.
FTL MODA- INTERVIEWS Hendrik Vermeulen AH: You are from South Africa but have strong ties in Italy. Tell us more. HV: My husband’s family is from Italy, I have a studio in Rome, and have participated in Alta Roma Fashion Week. Some of the fabrics in my collection are from Italy as well. AH: Who is the Simply Vermeulen woman? HV: She is confident, stylish, and energetic. When I design, I always want to have my garments enhance a woman so they are wearing the dress, it is not wearing them. AH: How has your experience been in New York? HV: This is my first time in New York City and my first time seeing winter snow. When I left South Africa, it was 70 degrees and it is below freezing here. I do love everything I have seen in New York City thus far. Rozalia Bot AH: Tell us about your collection you will presenting on the runway today. RB: I am showing 18 looks made of silk, chiffon, and tulle with embroidery. It is very romantic. My inspiration was flowers and they are very beautiful and I want a woman to feel beautiful in their own body. My collection enhances that. AH: How long have you been a designer? I have been designing for two years and continually develop my work. AH: If you could dress any celebrity, who would it be? I would choose Angelia Jolie since she is a strong and yet feminine woman. Landi Accessories AH: How did Landi Accessories begin? LA: We have been designing leather handbags since 1950 and it is a family business. Siblings Marco & Monica run the operations and sons Gianluca and Stefano draw the designs. We use only the finest Italian leather and all items are made in Italy. AH: How are you making Landi Acessories a global brand? LA: In addition to selling in Italy, we debuted our collection in China last September at Xi’an Fashion Week and had a great response. We started selling in the Middle East too. This is our first time in America and presenting at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. AH: What is your most popular handbag? LA: Our most popular is our leather shopping bags, particularly the “Hug” bag as the material hugs around the side of the bag. Trend Privé Magazine 18
Asia Fashion Collection
Calvin Klein
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VENEXIANA
Calvin Klein
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VIVIENNE HU
Calvin Klein
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Supermodel: Tyson Beckford
DAVID TLALE
Calvin Klein
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CUSTO BARCELONA
Calvin Klein
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CUSTO BARCELONA
Calvin Klein
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CAROLINA HERRERA
Calvin Klein
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CAROLINA HERRERA
Calvin Klein
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BADGLEY MISCHKA
Calvin Klein
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ALICE + OLIVIA
Calvin Klein
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MOSKOV New York Fashion Week- Longhouse Projects Gallery Moskov is an American-British brand by designers Dan Moskovenko and Khristine Catacutan that has been featured in the Russian editions of Cosmopolitan, Elle, and Allure magazines. Their Fall 2015 collection was entitled the ‘Gilded Cage’ since it was inspired by the vintage eras of London, Japan and New England. The twenty one looks of the collection consisted of custom printed silks and satin, wool, and pony skin. Japanese beauty was the inspiration for the hair and makeup with striking indigo hued eyeliner paired with a folded updo that was a modern interpretation of a Geisha. During the presentation, there was also a live art show where artists Jonny Detiger, Peter D. Gerakaris, and Joshua Avery Webster painted and drew on garments worn by models. Overall the presentation was interesting, unique, and a true standout during New York Fashion Week.
Calvin Klein Trend Privé Magazine 30
Backstage FTL Moda
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Antonio Urzi
Calvin Klein
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Landi Accessories
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Rozalia Bot
Calvin Klein
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Hendrik Vermeulen
Calvin Klein
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Modelle & Rotelle FTL MODA Loving You
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Modelle & Rotelle with FTL MODA Loving You Images by
Daniel Valverde, of the Green Valley Photography
BAcksTAGe FTL ModA NYFw Images by Madeleine Dalla Torre Castillo
Photos by Eviem Photography
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BAcksTAGe FTL ModA NYFw Images by Dalong Yang
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Ilaria Niccolini The Founder and CEO of FTL MODA and of Ilaria Niccolini Production INC Interview by TPM Senior Accessories Editor Adrielyn Christi ILARIA
“Disability is very often in our minds and if you just take off that layer that covered your eyes, you’ll just uncover the beauty that is there regardless if they are missing an arm or a leg.” Ilaria Niccolini I often wondered what went into putting on a mega fashion show, like NYFW mega fashion show. I mean, yes, I’ve tried my hand at it on a much smaller level and even at that it’s not easy. If you’re not familiar with this, Trend Privé Magazine is the official media sponsor for FTL MODA. FTL MODA is a platform to showcase the best emerging and established talents at the international level. The event has grown through a series of international catwalks organized to showcase some of the most recognized brands proudly made in Italy but with an eye always focused on new talents in the fashion field internationally. Ilaria Niccolini is the founder and producer of the FTL MODA platform which she created in 2006. I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing her and speaking from one fashion lover and mother to another. After speaking with Ilaria, I was blown away by all that she does and what she has done to get to where she is now, all while being a wife and mother. We as women sometimes are expected to leave the corporate side of the world behind in order to take care of our families, while sacrificing our own dreams. Ilaria is one of those women who have defied the adversity a large number of women experience in their lifetime. A wife and a mother to two teenage daughters, she can almost be defined as “superwoman”. She travels for FTL MODA and for Ilaria Niccolini Production INC. She has been working on some of the most appreciated productions in the fields for which Italian excellence is known for throughout the world.
From fashion to the fine arts, from cinema and music to hand-made luxury projects. Ilaria has created a number of high-profile events including several worldwide movie premieres, the celebration for the 200th anniversary of Casa Ricordi, galas, receptions, and art exhibitions in Europe, Asia and the US: her contemporary art touring gallery, EUART, is considered one of the most innovative and affordable projects to itinerate the most recognized international exhibitions and fairs. Since then, Ilaria founded FTL MODA in 2007. FTL MODA is a platform to showcase the best emerging and established talents at the international level. The event has grown and continues to grow through a series of international catwalks organized to showcase some of the most recognized brands of “Proudly made in Italy” but with an eye always focused on new talents in the fashion field. Within her creation of FTL MODA, Ilaria wanted to show diversity in the modeling world. Where there is no separation for models who weren’t of the “norm” and this meant models who are larger than most, shorter than most, who have a disability. So she partnered with Models of Diversity, which is a campaign for more diversity in the average models of today and calls the special runway show “FTL MODA, LOVING YOU”. Come along with me as I speak with this amazing woman and hear her take on the fashion world, production and life in general: Adrielyn: Ilaria, you don’t know the pleasure it is to sit and chat with you Ilaria: It is my pleasure. Adrielyn: After going over your website Ilaria Nicolini Productions, I am just literally just blown away at the things that you do. You are a mother of two young girls, a wife and an entrepreneur; you do so much.
literature. While I also studied economics and became an entrepreneur of my family business when I was still 18, so I did my university studies while working in the family business. This is probably what always stimulated me. My father always told me that I was to always earn everything and I am responsible for everything in my life and nothing was to be taken for granted. I kept it this way and that’s who I am.
Ilaria: I also believe that if you are really good things out, no matter how bad the world can be because of course there are negative things in this world. We also have to go through heck in life, and through trials that verify our level of strength and capability to face the huge challenges that we do not deserve at all. Move on from negativity and face your day with a positive vision. This is something I’ve also learned from my team around me.
Adrielyn: So that stimulated you to create everything you have today.
Adrielyn: How did you get your start in FTL MODA?
Illaria: In the fields that I work with; I love arts, fashion, and cinema, this is makes me go ahead, so I love to see talent growing, and that’s mainly what moves me, but mainly to see that opportunities get put on the table and that they are rewarded.
Ilaria: After moving to the US in 2000 to open a branch of our family business and being the CEO of that business, I started representing brands from Italy and in the US. I opened another branch here in the US that was called Nove Mare, which was a platform called “made in Tuscany product. So in 2004 I started thinking that I could actually do something to represent the excellence of Made in Italy and starting representing some brands. In 2006 I came up with the FTL MODA platform and the first fashion show was in 2007. I invested everything I had in the platform and it was a great success. Three months after in Miami FL I was called by the Italian Embassy and Chamber of Commerce of Europe in Miami to create a fashion show for them at a house in South Beach to represent the European brands. I knew I could make the platform happen. By 2009 I received the recognition by the Italian Government as the official platform to represent the proudly made in Italy award.
Adrielyn: How do you keep you focus straight? Ilaria: Because of the world that we work in, and within they are very corrupted, this is something that is very natural for me because this is the only way I can be. This is something that has a big penalty occasionally because in order to maintain your integrity and not compromise you pay huge fees sometimes and especially if you are a woman, you have to make room for yourself in world full of sharks. Adrielyn: How have you maintained yourself knowing that there are plenty of people in the business and fashion world that would step over anyone to get to the top?
Adrielyn: You keep everything together, it’s amazing; it is just a big accomplishment. How did you start to create all of this?
Ilaria: It has always not been easy I must be honest, I was tempted to remain that pure, but I never did. One thing you asked me what helped me, there is one thing I must say is my faith, I’m a believer, I have great faith. That’s what kept my vision straight; and then I have my amazing family. This is engine number one, waking up and seeing them, my daughters, my husband.
Illaria: I think what moves us, us professionals, that do this everyday with the schedules we have which is basically 24/7 is passion. I’m a very passionate woman and my background; I’m Italian as you know, and also a US citizen now, but my background is art and
Adrielyn: That shows that you are an ethical person and it’s a good stepping stone for someone who would possibly want to work with you knowing that they’re working with someone of ethics and would not compromise it just to get ahead in their job.
Ilaria: (laughing) Yeah, yeah, I do a lot, that’s why I’m so crazy.
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Adrielyn: How did you come up with the Loving You Show? Ilaria: It’s actually a spin-off of FTL MODA and I thought of years ago. The fashion world can be really glamorous and stimulating but also shallow or empty if you allow me to say. I always thought there must a focus or target I can achieve that it cannot only be to reach MBFW and the reason is that I wanted to do something good for others. I wanted to do something that would break the rules internationally. I searched for a charity that understood the disability so that we can learn what people go through and need. I contacted a foundation in Italy who had did a charity event in the past and from there I was put in touch with Models Of Diversity of London. And the rest is
Ilaria Niccolini The Founder and CEO of FTL MODA and of Ilaria Niccolini Production INC Interview by TPM Senior Accessories Editor Adrielyn Christi FTL MODA
history we are already at work for September.
in order to produce things and the fashion to be able So there you have it, Ilaria Niccolini is someone I to become an exhibition. aspire to be one day, not just because of her achieveAdrielyn: Since you’ve opened the doors and introments, but because of her generosity. During the duced this, do you see other show producers trying to Adrielyn: Who would you say is your most influen- interview she also mention that the big news is that tial fashion designer or favorite designer or who are FTL MODA will be working with the Christopher imitate you? your top two (laughing) and Dana Reeves Foundation. Ilaria: Yes, but this makes me happy, this is the main They said it is fantastic and really want to be part of Ilaria: (laughing) Oh boy that’s a hard one because it, so Ilaria and her team are creating the paperwork thing, Tokyo Fashion Week opened with disabled models and The Daily Mirror UK quoted us saying that as an Italian I should support my country I would for basics for an agreement. In addition FTL Moda say but I am not necessarily going to do that (laugh- will be heading to LFW and Tokyo Fashion Week. “Yes, this is happening at Tokyo Fashion Week, but ing). I love Chanel very much, I love the genius that Ilaria wants to show the world that disability is FTL MODA already did in New York and Milan” It’s was behind her and I love the courage she had and such a reward that they would quote us. very often in our minds and if you just take off that the tough work she had to do to in order to become layer that covered your eyes, you’ll just uncover the Adrielyn: With everything that you have going on, do the icon she became. I see myself in her. I have a beauty that is there regardless if they are missing an passion for silky full art things, so I love Hermés. you find time to unwind? arm or a leg. But speaking of groundbreaking brands, there are Ilaria: I find time to just hold hands with my husband so many European designers that amaze me and I had the honor of becoming close with them. One of and spend time to with my two girls and I also pray them is Tom Rebel, he is from Germany and has an a lot. amazing showroom out of Milan. We are probably going to work together with him and present him at Adrielyn: What are your thoughts since MB is no NYFW. I just think he is a visionary and amazing for longer the sponsor fashion week? I know you can’t both women and men. But there are so many talents comment on the new location that are ready for the world. Ilaria: Yes I can’t comment because it would not be professional, I’m pretty sure we’re going to see some Adrielyn: Anything else planned for presentation changes, but I’m pretty sure MB will have a role in it shows before September? anyway. Ilaria: Actually we are working right now on brands Adrielyn: This question may sound silly but what for development that we presented this past season, does FTL MODA stand for? so our office in New York is working with our showroom partner in Broadway and Los Angeles to do Ilaria: (laughing) Fashion Trend Leaders. some collection presentation media preview in April. We are working on look books as well. Adrielyn: What are your thoughts on how things are put together as far as the whole fashion show produc- Adrielyn: I love your drive, you do things with a tion in a whole; where do you see that heading? passion; its rare to find a fair amount of women like you with a passion and to helping others be a part of Ilaria: My vision is this one, I think the world is ready something so huge. for a more futuristic presentation in general. You notice that we introduced Antonio Urzi at MBFW and Ilaria: Thank you for noticing this, this actually it was very easy because we worked with the genius very important to me and is the main component. of a caliber in Antonio of course and he was used to All the people that have been working with me for the level of what we wanted to produce. The world years, they know that what move is to see general is ready for fashion that is more communicatively; in satisfaction all over. My priority is to deliver the my mind and my heart I will see more links to art for expectations that I promise. the future. Art and fashion should stick together and it should build something that is thoughtful and build Adrielyn: Ilaria, thank you so much for taking time something that is communicating. I would like to see out of your oh so busy schedule to chat with me. You Images by Madeleine Dalla Torre Castillo some values recuperated from the artistic background are an inspiration to us all. Trend Privé Magazine 43
BAcksTAGe cusTo BArceLoNA Images courtesy of Custo Barcelona
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Photos by Eviem Photography
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TRIBUTE TO
DIANE PERNET BY LIVIA ALCALDE
www.liviaalcalde.com Styling : Pablo Patanè www.pablopatanè.com Assistant Photographer : Fabio Bozzetti www.fabiobozzetti.com MUA/Hair : Einat Dan www.einatdan.com Hat - Pasquale Bonfilio Clutch - Roberto Cavalli Dress - Augustine Teboul Necklace - Tom Rebl Trend Privé Magazine 46
Dress ROBERTO CAVALLI Hat PASQUALE BONFILIO Shoes ANDREA INCONTRI
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Dress ALBERTA FERRETTI Shirt TOM REBL Neckless TOM REBL Watch MONTEGRAPPA Handbag ROBERTO CAVALLI Shoes ROBERTO CAVALLI Earrings RENèE BETHENCOURT (renèebet@gmail.com)
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Hat PASQUALE BONFILIO Shirt ROBERTO CAVALLI Coat MM Pants MOI Shoes ROBERTO CAVALLI Trend Privé Magazine 49
Diane Pernet by TPM Senior Fashion Editor MYRA POSTOLACHE I have met Diane Pernet several times already, and each time I see her, I fall in love with her charm and charisma. Diane’s voice is the most beautiful voice that I’ve ever heard. Diane Pernet is unique, always wearing black outfits and dark glasses, with incredible jewelry and headpieces made by Mario Salvucci, an old friend and collaborator of Diane. She loves fashion and supports emerging designers, which is another reason why I love her dearly. Last time I met her was in Pari, I got to discover more about her and her impressive story. Diane Pernet was born in Washington DC and educated in Philadelphia at Temple University, where she took a degree in documentary filmmaking. Like so many young people in the late Seventies in America, she migrated to New York, where she lived on 17th and Broadway, right across from Andy Warhol’s Factory, and worked in film as a costume designer before setting up her own fashion business. Diane’s life in New York was full of difficult moments and her first husband, that died in a car accident at the age of 31, is still the biggest love of her life. She started designing because she loved Charles James. Her collections were for strong and sensual women. After more difficult moments, she moved to Paris where she is still living. She is very happy there and her life changed in a better way absolutely.
10 years of ASVOF In Paris, Diane lost interest in designing and she didn’t want to work for another designer. Prior to launching ASVOF in 2005, Pernet was a digital fashion reporter for Elle.fr, Vogue.fr and a fashion editor for JOYCE, Hong Kong. Having initially designed for thirteen years in New York under her namesake brand, she relocated to Paris in the end of 1990 landing her first role as a costume designer for the film Golem l’Esprit d’Exile in 1991. Pernet’s first fashion film festival was called ‘You Wear it Well’ it debuted in Los Angeles at Cine Space in 2006, laying the foundation for the ASVOFF in 2008, with the festivals first edition launched in September and since 2009 it has screened at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. Pernet was recognized in 2008 for her pioneering spirit in digital media when she was chosen as one of three influential global bloggers to take part in a panel celebrating a seminal fashion exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the other two participants were Cathy Horyn and the Sartorialist. In 2012 she was the recipient of the distinguished FAD Medal from the Barcelona based cultural institution devoted to the promotion of design and creativity, FAD (Fostering Arts and Design). In 2014 Pernet received the Asian Couture Federation Award for her contribution to fashion journalism and in May 2015 she receives the Honorary Legend of Fashion Award from SAIC (School of the Arts Institute of Chicago). In 2013 and again in 2014, she was selected as one of the BOF 500, the people shaping the global fashion industry. The multi-talented creative holds a degree in filmmaking and communications from Temple University in Philadelphia and also attended both Parsons and FIT. In February 2015 she launched Diane Pernet Paris perfumes at Liberty London: To Be Honest, Wanted, In Pursuit of Magic and Shaded.
31 Ways to Win ASVOFF 1. Remember that this is our chance to get up close and personal. So make us something personal. 2. Grab the attention of your viewer in the first 30 seconds of the film. Don’t wait. 3. Do not use the mirror effect. Please just don’t. 4. Colored smoke isn’t really all that impressive. Really -- reconsider. 5. Sometimes, a little comedy can be a clever way to seduce people who are starved of humor in fashion. 6. Never forget that what you’re creating is a film. It is not a photo shoot in motion. 7. Work closely with a composer to support your images with a fitting score. 8. Fashion must be the protagonist of your film. 9. Have your film take us somewhere we’ve never been. 10. Develop a unique aesthetic for your film. Know when to contrast and when to complement. Consider the raw and the refined. 11. A clear scenario helps, especially if the film is more than 3 minutes. Trend Privé Magazine 50
12. Invest in and have immense respect for good technicians. They are a rare breed. 13. A genius film editor is a huge asset. 14. Sound is a key player in any film; pay close attention to it. 15. Get the best director of photography you can find. 16. If you need actors, then don’t ask models to play their roles -- not unless they can really act. 17. Evoke powerful emotions. Loud isn’t always powerful. Subtlety can be. 18. A director certainly doesn’t have to come from the fashion world to make an outstanding fashion film. 19. Someone famous either in front of or behind the camera can be a big boost. But it’s not for everyone and not for every film. 20. Think carefully about the rhythm of the film. 21. Consider the subtext of the film. Superficiality can be fun or funny but subtext adds depth and dimension. 22. The director of the film should be the right fit for the fashion you’re trying to capture. 23. If the film moves the audience, then it is a success. 24. Leave your viewers wanting more. 25. Know when to cut. There’s nothing worse than a film that leaves you waiting for it to end. Sometimes, less really is more. 26. Take my breath away. 27. Predictability is the biggest turn-off. 28. Leave room for spontaneity but, for heaven’s sake, have some sort of plan. 29. Snag a brilliant art director. 30. Always respect the time limit. 31. Do not heavily grade the image to compensate for the fact you don’t know how to light!
THE FRANGRANCE WORLD OF DIANE PERNET Diane Pernet made her name at the forefront of online fashion as a writer, blogger and filmmaker. She is as famous for her iconic veiled look as she is for her pioneering work, and has made a statement with her first foray into perfume industry. A collection of four one-of-a-kind scents, each fragrance takes in a range of universally flattering notes: IN TO BE HONEST, WANTED, IN PURSUIT OF MAGIC and SHADED. The luxury jewels for Diane Pernet’s line of perfume bottles are made by Mario Salvucci, owner of the’’Incredible Creatures’’. “Each Incredible Creature is made in 100% recycled Sterling Silver, refinished and bent by my hands in a limited edition”, all done in his studio in Umbria, Italy. The shades of the silver are achieved with a natural process of oxidation done with sulphur that besides purifying produces unique colors that are never the same. Due to the nature of the design every piece is original since they are bent by hands and the stones, cut on measure, and each one is different. Every piece is original and fragile like nature. Diane and Mario Salvucci have been working together since 1986 and they are making history together.
AWARDS Diane Pernet is the 2012 recipient of the distinguished FAD Medal from the Barcelona-based cultural institution devoted to the promotion of design and creativity, FAD (Fostering Arts and Design). Pernet is the recipient of the Felicidad Duce Fashion award in its 13th edition for her extraordinary career as a fashion editor, for pioneering writing about fashion on the internet and becoming leader of bloggers. Also as being the godmother of the world’s emerging fashion talent as well as her sensitivity to the film genre that combines art, film and fashion photography. The Escola Superior de Disseny Felicidad Duce Barclona created this award in honor of its founder Ms. Felicidad Duce. The award ceremony is 18 April 2013. Pernet was awarded by the President and Executive board of Asian Couture Federation the Award of Excellence for her outstanding contribution to fashion journalism in September 2014 in Perth, Australia. Diane Pernet was invited by the School of the Art Institute of Chicago to be their 2015 Legend of Fashion Honoree for her career as a critic, filmmaker and style icon. The ceremony is scheduled on May 8, 2015. Trend Privé Magazine 51
corset D-SHOCK (MILANO) Hat PASQUALE BONFILIO Hat circlet AUGUSTIN TEBOUL Necklace STYLIST’S OWN Harm and skirt structure ANTONIO URZI
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Outfit and head-piece: Antonio Urzi
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New York Mercedes BeNz FAsHIoN week By Tony von Thelen, of the T von Tee Photography Runway report by Adrielyn Christi
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RUNWAY REPORT By: Adrielyn Christi Photography by: Tony von Thelen, of the T von Tee Photography Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2015 started off with an array of the world`s best designers and we have all of them here to share with you. Although the weather did not want to cooperate with what our mission was, we were still able to defeat the blizzard and rough conditions to watch shows such as Angel Sanchez, Badgley Mischka and more.
Anna Sui Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center Anna Sui’s fall SS15 collection gave way to her infinite love of the History Channel’s series Vikings it clearly showed. The Scandinavian style designs transformed you to both a modern world and the Viking age, from the spectacular shearlings to the dynamic blues of the Mongolian lamb hemmed black velvet parka, she clearly created this collection with a deep affection for a time period that has given us so much history. Several of the models walked the runway with face tattoos and the hair was given the tousled look by way of a special shampoo. On their feet were pony skin boots courtesy of Frye. Gigi Hadid, the young model who is making quite of a stir in the modeling world, helped rock the runway wearing an ivory lace ensemble with folkloric tapestry prints. The needlework and crochet work were over embroidered, which gave it more of a fascinating element. Jamie Bochert closed the show in a stunning knitted Viking helmet and a silver sequin dress under an embroidered faux fur cape.
Art Institute Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center The Art Institutes, which is a system of over 50 schools throughout North America, presented a most special show at MBFW 15. Not only are they a school for the artist at mind and heart, they help students pursue their dreams in any aspect in the fields of art. The opening of The Art Institutes presentation for fall 2015 was special guest Megan Silcott. After spending the last three years recovering from a rare immune system disease which left her paralyzed from the neck down, Silcott has achieved what many doctors thought would never be possible for her. With hard work and determination, Megan has been able to defy the odds of walking again. She walked down the runway wearing the first look of the evening by designer Nina Perdomo. Perdomo is a designer from The Art Institute of New York City. Megan Silcott wore a patchwork motif vest with wide rib cuff top over cropped pant. Padermo presented six looks with colors ranging from oxblood to olive with tweed seeming to be the theme of the collection. In addition to Perdomo, designers from The Art Institutes of Dallas, Vancouver, Pittsburg, Houston, San Francisco, Philadelphia, and Miami International University of Art & Design, all presented their collections that displayed fabrics of jersey, hound’stooth, wool and flannel. The popular colors seemed to be a mixture of creams, navy blues, charcoals and grays. August Getty Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center August Getty is one of the fashion industry’s youngest designer who is quickly climbing rising among the ranks as one of the fashion world’s great designers. For August Getty, his Fall/Winter 2015 aesthetic was lather. The looks were dark and sleek and epitomized everything what a woman is about. We couldn’t help but look at the shoes, which were provided by Guiseppe Zanotti; did we mention we couldn’t help look at the heels again? Badgley Mischka Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center
the matador-esque motif of embellished brocade jackets, shells, and strapless gowns. Although the theme was the femme fatale of the old Hollywood days, but yet they still kept the modernity at had with white button-down shirts tucked into a long black skirt with gold embroidery covering the waist and hips. From there was a transcendence of deep reds and black plaid looks with deep V-neck sweaters that will surely be the trend for fall. What we noticed is that Badgley Mischka introduced us all to a new material name silk honeycomb gazar, which only weighs a few ounces, but yet molds like clay.
BCBG Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center The husband and wife team of Max and Lubov Azria of BCBG, created their fall/ winter 2015 collection in a very California cool style. With the collection playing off of the traditional bohemian style we’ve all come to know them for; there were tunics and ponchos to adore. The lace up details and unique embellishments, with a shearling that was set upon a camel coat, it gave more of a lattice and patchwork appearance. There were dresses and coats with great details and plenty of styles for every customer.
Bibhu-Mohapatra Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center Bibhu Mohapatra’s Fall collection palette was full black and white, which is a mourning color in India. Mohapatra’s father passed away early December, therefore that explains his color palette. Instead of florals and colors, his mood board changed to show is mourning of his loss. Although blacks and whites were used, there were other colors as well such as indigo, turmeric yellow, and clay red. There were day dresses, a woven blazer, along with the draping detail on a pair of crepe trousers. All of these looks provided cuts and lines of femininity. The evening would not have been complete without evening wear. Complete with a gorgeous cape-back black and white gown which closed the show.
Carmen Marc Valvo Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center Carmen Marc Valvo’s Fall collection was evening clothes that seemed to flow with ease and can attract a younger clientele. There were plenty of plaids to be seen along with charcoal-plaid matelassé blazers and white shirts. The evening wear contained such a marvelous show of sparkle and flair which showed indubitable amount of sequins on a black stadium coat. The look was completed with a cashmere sweater with cropped cashmere trousers. We must not forget the beautiful gowns that were created of silk chiffon and silk gazar plaid ball gown skirt that can be paired with the silk charmeuse shirt and black cashmere sweater. Carolina Herrera Mercedes Benz Fashion Week- Lincoln Center The thing we love about Carolina Herrera, is that she designs based on the future. Her designs are always graceful, eloquent and exquisite; full of what many women got to in order to feel refined. This season she used the familiar colors and spheres of Fall. Although she is known for her magnificent ball gowns; which were plenty, a strapless gown in icy blue silk gazar and ripple print silk organza and cocktail dresses and gowns graced the runway. As the show proceeded, long wool felt dress in ivory made its way down the runway. We couldn’t help but feel the glamour of this beautiful show.
The look for Mark Badly and James Mischka was pure old Hollywood Glam, with
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ANGEL SANCHEZ Angel Sanchez started us off with a collection that was made of pure transcendence, from bold golds embodied into jacquard. Black was another major player in his collection, which was the paramount of lines and cutouts. With the first look of his bold collection for fall, his gowns were the strongest looks. The designer loves to create fabrics that flow with ease on the runway. Hailing from Venezuela, Angel Sanchez`s designs reflect an architectural background. The structure of his designs are of new shapes that very much embody the femininity of a woman. Not to mention you can always count on Angel Sanchez to add a touch of drama to each of his designs. Description by Adrielyn Christi
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ANNA SUI
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ART INSTITUTES
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AUGUST GETTY
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BADGLEY MISCHKA
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BCBG
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BIBHU MOHAPATRA
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CARMEN MARC VALVO
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CAROLINA HERRERA
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COSTELLO TAGLIAPIETRA
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DAVID TLALE
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CUSTO BARCELONA
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DESIGUAL
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GO FOR RED
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HERVE LEGER
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IDAN COHEN
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IIJIN
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iiJin`s first U.S. store is now open at 116. S. Robertson Blvd in Los Angeles and offers an extensive selection of women’s clothes and stylish shoes for men and women. Photos by TPM Photographer T Von Tee.
Iijin
Interview with Christina Minasian www.wolffbehr.com
Many of us dream of attending MBFW to view the upcoming season’s collections from some of the best designers in fashion. I am one of the lucky few that was able to attend and interview these sometimes glamorous and over the top production shows. One of the shows and designers that I want to talk about is IiJin. iiJin, is a ready to wear, shoes, handbags and accessories brand for both men and women. The collection’s emphasis is based widely on clothes and accessories that are daring, bold, chic and for the ever changing jet-setter. The word iiJin means “precious” in Korean and iiJin and there is a vast amount of creativeness that goes into each collection. iiJin was started by Cassian Lau and Christina Minasian in 2009 and both come from extensive business, art and fashion backgrounds. Cassian takes the role of the menswear designer. Being the artist, cartoonist, and designer that he is, he also serves as Creative Director. He uses is artistic gift on his menswear designs and uses cartoon characters, bright colors, and patterns to bring his collections and style to life. Christina Minasian uses her education from The American University in Paris and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York when creating the women’s collections. With her history as Head Buyer Kitson, it shows with her fun and edgy designs. Fashion week is most hectic for designers, but I was able to take a few minutes of Christina Minasian’s precious time. With how crazy it was backstage, she sat down with me while I asked her some questions on her brand:
Interview by Adrielyn Christi, Trend Prive Magazine Senior Accessories Editor Trend Privé Magazine 76
Image left: TPM Senior Accessories Editor Adrielyn Christi and Christina Minasian. Image right: Christina Minasian
Adrielyn: I know we don’t have that much time, but I wanted to ask you, what was your inspiration for this collection? Christina: This collection’s inspiration is kind of like renegade, punk rock done in a more uplifting and positive atmosphere. So we stuck with fabrics with brighter colors to balance that out. Adrielyn: How did you and Cassian meet and how did this unique duo come about? Christina: We met through a mutual friend and it was just kind of a great fit and we started collaborating right away. It’s been really wonderful and he’s really amazing to work with and I was just in Hong Kong with him and it was just very Adrielyn: So do you guys bounce ideas off one another since you do women and he does men? Christina: Yeah, absolutely and um he has so many great ideas that are really authentic that come from places that you wouldn’t really expect. It’s great to feed off of him. Adrielyn: I read that Kate Nash is one of your fans; now with her being a celebrity, do you have a pretty big celebrity followings or do you dress a lot of other celebrities? Christina: Yes, we do, we do a lot of celebrities out of L.A., and so it’s exciting. Adrielyn: Now since you decided to do NYFW, are there any plans to do L.A. Fashion Week? Christina: Not yet, for now it’s just this, we’re taking it slow. Adrielyn: Well. I don’t want to take any more of your time up; I really appreciate you answering my questions. Christina: Thank you very much and sorry to keep you waiting.
LEANNE MARSHALL
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LELA ROSE
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LIE SANG BONG
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LUPE GAJARDO
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MARK AND ESTEL
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MARTIN K
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MICHAEL COSTELLO
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MONGOL
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MONIQUE LHUILLIER
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NICHOLAS K
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NICOLE MILLER
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PAMELLA ROLAND
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PARK CHOON MOO
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REEM ACRA
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RICHARD CHAI
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TADASHI SHOJI
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TAORAY WANG
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THOMAS WYLDE
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TOME
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VIVIENNE TAM
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ZANG TOI
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edITor`s pIcks 5 FAvorITe desIGNers
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Rad Hourani SS 2015
COUTURE
http://www.radhourani.com/
Written by TPM Fashion Editor Cameron Carpenter Utilizing the wonderful space in the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Rad Hourani staged his presentation for spring 2015 couture. I was immediately struck with his further exploration of ease of shaping some pieces here, long panels and blocky fun sloped cuts. His use of subtly textured, almost wrinkly fabrics with high sheen, and rubberized fabrics was fresh exploration as well. Color injection is the most obvious note in this collection, but again it’s a playful exploration with shape color, texture and sheen that’s most evident this season. The garment shapes present in the photo exhibit, and model choices on the walls tied in and played with gender again to reinforce the unisex exploration. Questions of what’s a man to wear? What’s a woman to wear? What is masculine / feminine? These drove home the show’s theme and emphasis again without being glaringly obvious or cheeky. His appointment to the Syndicale as the first Canadian and first unisex couturier is well lauded. We’re very happy for this talented man. The next question is will he/can he keep up the unisex theme for long? I for one admire his laser focus and vision, and cannot wait to see where he takes and evolves the couture collection. It has a basis in his RTW (or vice versa) but it has its own charms that you want from something specially made. Vive la Rad Hourani! Images by Yuji Watanabe
Calvin Klein
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RALPH & RUSSO Images Courtesy of Ralph & Russo
Calvin Klein
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RALPH & RUSSO
Calvin Klein
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RALPH & RUSSO
Calvin Klein
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RALPH & RUSSO Images Courtesy of Ralph & Russo
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Virile Prominence SS15 DoNeal is a fashion business brand which comprises of beads, accessories and clothes. The fashion brand was established in the year 2014 with basis of bead accessories. This year, the fashion brand has decided to take a bold step and delve into great in-depth of the fashion industry. As part of our hallmark which is “Exceptionally Artsy Dernier Cri”, we look forward to using contemporary and old forms of fashion as well as art inspired crafts to produce both formal and informal walks of life clothing with respect to women and men thus earning one a finessed look. By paying a conscientious attention to details, we intend to satisfy our customers and clients, thus establishing stronghold for more acquaintances thereby expanding the business of fashion in Africa worldwide.
DESCRIPTION AND CONCEPT OF THE LOOKBOOK. Virile Prominence – Men Collection. Virile Prominence (SS15) depicts a man of hard work. He is diligent and takes the challenge of changing situations around him concisely with effectiveness and efficiency. He doesn’t look back at his past which hinders him so much hence the reason for which he strives is his number one priority – TRIUMPH. I draw my inspiration on Virile Prominence from hardworking men who strive to be successful in life regardless of circumstances. Virile Prominence is simply the importance of using one’s energy and vigor to become a success. The whole background and idea is from construction works which is mostly
A respectable appearance is sufficient enough to make people more interested in your soul. Stay Fashionable. Always. Trend Privé Magazine 104
undertaken by men. It is a twist of the efforts men involve themselves in to produce great exploits. He is a man that builds his life no matter the circumstances around him because he knows what lies ahead of him. He takes up the initiative of constructing his life putting together all bits and pieces necessary for success to prevail. He is a man of words who knows what his long suffering is worth – A Grand Highflyer. The color pallet for this collection is blue background fabric containing construction work images of random colors with a touch of soft leather. The color blue stands for responsibility and reliability and a need for order direction in man’s life by being confident and secured emotionally. The color black depicts the negative energy man intends to strip away. The random colors relates to the good qualities man is willing to employ in becoming a success.
This is a SPRING/SUMMER 2015 Lookbook The collection being worked on is
“Virile Prominence” menswear, a 7 piece ready to wear edgy sleeveless shirts.
LOOKBOOK TEAM The Virile Prominence Look book would not have been a success without these Ghanaian fashion enthusiasts;
The CREATIVE DIRECTOR – NEAL DAVIDS The BRAND/LABEL - DONEAL The PHOTOGRAHER – QUINCY ASEPHUA of quasieasephua photography The PERSONAL ASSISTANT – OBENQ CASPER and MANUELA AMORIN The MUA (Makeup Artist) – HAMID VIJAY The Entities (MODELS) for this collection are as follows; • EKOW BARNES • PERCY OKINE • DELADEM DUVI • PRINCE TONA • OLIVER DUVI • MICHAEL SARPONG • DAVID ANTWI
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TOM REBL Tom Rebl conquers reality with the superhero legend Good against evil, the real world against virtual reality: the indubitable star of these contrasting themes with blurred boundaries is the superhero. The new TOM REBL fall/winter collection was designed to conquer the world. Taking the catwalk by storm will be an entity with extraordinary powers, the only ones that make it possible to survive in today’s increasingly sinister society. The parallel path between reality and fiction intertwines and clashes in the “double identity” game. In this sense, the character of Bruce Wayne enters the scene: the perfect man who makes room for Batman, his dark alter ego fighting injustice. On this journey, the superhero’s cape is the linking thread between reality and cyberspace. The new TOM REBL collection features high-tech but also natural materials. Iridescent fabrics and a metallic sheen contrast with natural cotton, leather and wool. Volumes are futuristic: they do not hug the body, but accentuate existing proportions to create new shapes that make a man a superhero. The man acquires his “powers” through iconic clothing that simply accentuates his life without masking it. Jackets with masculine and feminine touches, knitwear and suits underline and reveal the superhero within us. After last season’s success when it first appeared, the women’s collection continues its evolution in the TOM REBL world, becoming a more important presence, with sculptural garments that envelop the female body in technical sportswear fabrics. Black is dominant: the intensity of the color is expressed in many different ways. Every facet of black is seen: on leather and laminated fabric, with an opaque or glossy finish, and in transparent elements and 3D jacquard. This play of light and shadow is interrupted by bursts of color: the monochromatic hue features highlights of metallic bronze, green, and a splash of red. The new TOM REBL collection is also enhanced by silver jewelry by Grimoldieu, a talented young jewelry designer from Milan. These unique handmade silver pieces with their sophisticated design add a distinctive touch to a look. The objective is to accentuate one’s individuality by wearing unique and authentic personal sculptures. Images by Marco Bertani; Courtesy of Tom Rebl
Calvin Klein
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INTERVIEW BY TPM EDITOR FLORENTA POPA FP: How do you define Tom Rebl style, Tom Rebl man and Tom Rebl woman? TR: Tenacious, rebellious, experimental... this spirit is the same for my man and woman. FP: Does your approach differ when designing menswear compared to womenswear? TR: Oh yes, it is a different starting point. With my menswear, I start from a more technical or sartorial point of view. Whereas with the women´s pieces it is a rather emotional and inspirational kick-off. It is the vision or idea that I like to capture with my clothes for women. FP: What made you take fashion more seriously and make a career out of it? Are you a self taught or did you study fashion design? TR: I found my vocation to work as fashion designer during my first stay in London when I was about 19 years old. Before that, it didn´t even cross my mind. I grew up in a small town in the Bavarian countryside just outside Munich, where fashion wasn´t really an issue. As soon as I moved to London, a whole new world opened up in front of me and I realised, that fashion is my passion. And the only college, where I wanted to study was the infamous Central Saint Martins College in London. That´s where my fashion icons from my adolescence graduated from. That was the starting point and foundation of my career in fashion. FP: What’s your motto? TR: Think positive.
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– 15/16 collection? TR: Good against evil, the real world against virtual reality: the indubitable star of these contrasting themes with blurred boundaries is the superhero. The only one, who manages to survive in today’s increasingly sinister society. The parallel path between reality and fiction intertwines and clashes in the “double identity” game. On his journey, the superhero’s cape is the linking thread between reality and cyberspace.
TOM REBL INTERVIEW by TPM EDITOR FLORENTA POPA FP: Would you change anything about fashion industry? TR: I don´t want to change the fashion industry. I wish more people would take fashion more seriously and be more concerned. Fashion is an important way of communication in our every-day life. But unfortunately it is often considered as superficial and secondary. FP: How do you balance creativity with commerce? TR: It´s a daily debate, which is though challenging for me. But it is important to never lose your identity. FP: Do you ever feel like going back in time, to the same ideas or inspirational motifs thinking that now you can make things better than in the past? TR: I prefer looking into the future. I don´t want to repeat things from the past. My past collections felt right at that time. FP: What capts your attention in a model? TR: Physical imperfection and personality. FP: What was your inspiration for Autumn/Winter
FP:I have seen the full show Autumn Winter 20152016 Milan Menswear youtube video and I truly liked the music I heard. I think it worked perfectly with the collection. Is there any famous song that would also work perfectly with the whole collection? (I know you have experience in music and you can’t see fashion without music, right?) TR: Frank Wiedemann - Howling (Âme Remix) FP: Could you tell us more about the materials that you used in the latest collection? TR: The collection features high-tech as well as natural materials. Iridescent fabrics and a metallic sheen contrast with natural cotton, leather and wool. Volumes are futuristic: they do not hug the body, but accentuate existing proportions to create new shapes. The women’s collection continues its evolution within the TOM REBL world, becoming a more important presence, with sculptural garments that envelope the female body in technical sportswear fabrics. Black is dominant: the intensity of the color is expressed in many different ways. Every facet of black is seen: on leather and laminated fabric, with an opaque or glossy finish, and in transparent elements and 3D jacquard. This play of light and shadow is interrupted by bursts of color: the monochromatic hue features highlights of metallic bronze, green, and a splash of red. FP: Who inspires you the most in fashion?
TR: David Bowie. I admire how he used and still uses fashion in his very unique and polarising way. FP: Was there anyone in your family that made you feel like designing? TR: Both my dad and my mum are very creative. I remember from my early years on, that my creativity was nurtured in every sense: drawing, building, collaging, painting etc. It was always clear to pursue a career in a creative area. In my teenage years I was thinking about becoming an architect or graphic designer. FP: Where do you like it more? Italy, Germany or UK? And why? TR: Well, Germany is my home country. That´s where I grew up and where my roots are. Most of my family is still living there. And it is always great to come “home”. London holds a very special place in my heart. The years in the UK were very important, as they embossed the foundation in my approach to fashion. But now I call Italy my home. I am living here for nearly 10 years. I feel really homely surrounded by great friends and enjoy the advantages this country has to offer: excellent food, beautiful countryside and the sea. FP:What’s the first piece of clothing that you designed? TR:That was a white Ninja suit with origami pleating. And it actually came out really well!! FP: What is one question that nobody has ever asked you - but you wish they have asked you? TR: Why do you use black as the dominant colour in your collecitons? --> Because I still didn´t find a colour, that is darker than black! Photos: Courtesy of Tom Rebl
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Skull CaShmere BY ADRIELYN CHRISTI TPM SENIOR ACCESSORIES EDITOR
Have you ever seen that wonderful cashmere sweater or cardigan and wondered “who is that by”? Or while shopping in Bloomingdales or Saks and passed by the entire section of cashmere and just loved how soft the sweaters were? If you have yet to hear about the brand 360 Sweater and Skull Cashmere, then you’re in for a big treat. 360Sweater is the contemporary knitwear brand created by the husband and wife team of Leslie and Bruce Gifford. It blends the look of effortless beach chic with sexy sophistication and 360SWEATER is offered only at the finest stores in the U.S., Europe and Canada. Skull Cashmere collection is inspired by the cool California style and the edgy, sophisticated New York street style. Both brands have something that every chic fashion girl needs in her closet, from sweaters, to hats, gloves, and there’s even something there for that special pooch of the family. While in New York for Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, I was able to sit down and speak with Andrew Gifford, the Creative Director behind the looks of Skull Cashmere inside the insanely beautiful New York City showroom. Not only is Andrew the Creative Director, but the son of Leslie and Bruce, needless to say, fashion genes run in the family. You can find more information on 360 Cashmere and Skull Cashmere at www. skullcashmere.com
images by T von T / Andrew Gifford and Adrielyn Christi
A MUST SEE:
WWW.SKULLCASHMERE.COM
Nike/Levi’s Kids Rock!
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The show kicked off with an introduction to The Carmelo Anthony Foundation, along with a high-powered perfomance by Carly Rose Sonenclar. Sitting front row, Carmelo and LaLa Anthony, Devon Still, CC and Amber Sabathia, Victor Cruz, Prince Fielder, Nicole “Snooki” Polizzi, Hoda Kotb and more as some of the athletes watched their kids hit the runway in looks from Nike, Levi’s, Converse, Hurley, Nike SB and Jordan. The show closed with an inspiring appearance by Devon Still’s daughter Leah Still who shined on the runway while bringing awareness to the fight against pediatric cancer. Images Courtesy of Nike/Levi’s Kids Rock! Runway Show
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pArIs FAsHIoN week
By Yuji Watanabe http://www.yujiwatanabe.book.fr
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MANISH ARORA
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ALLUDE
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ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
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BERNARD CHANDRAN
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GOSIA BACZYNSKA
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GROUND ZERO
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MASHA MA
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RAHUL MISHRA
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SHIATZY CHEN
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YDE
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TONY WARD
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LoNdoN FAsHIoN week By TPM Editor Viktor Man http://themanandglam.com/
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It seems like London Collections: Men has been a part of London fashion landscape for ages, but the fact is that the event has only been taking place twice a year since June 2012 and it has already been established as the one-to-go-to event alongside London Fashion Week. In fact, London Collections: Men is a younger sibling of London Fashion Week. Since the very beginning of the London Fashion Week dating back to 1984, menswear collections would be presented on one day of the event and that day had been purely devoted to menswear collections. As the event had been gaining its popularity and recognition on the international scene, creating a separate event that would concentrate on menswear only seemed like a natural progression but it wasn’t until 2012 when the idea of London Collections: Men became reality. The ‘birth’ of London Collections: Men was announced by GQ editor, Dylan Jones, who explained that men’s day during LFW had grown to such an extent that it had been too squeezed to be taking place during one day of LFW so a three-day event showcasing menswear designers and their collections seemed like a great platform for the British fashion industry. And a great idea it has been indeed. The London Collections: Men has turned out to be a big hit amongst designers, publishers, buyers and press. Menswear fashion has been getting more attention and recognition thanks to increased number of collections presented during the LCM. From thirteen collections showcased in February 2012 during one day show, the number of presentations raised up to forty-eight during the whole event with over seventy British and international designers participating in the Designer Showrooms on top of it today. To prove that the men’s fashion week has established its position on the fashion scene, participation of global brands such as Alexander McQueen, Belstaff, Burburry Prorsum, Margaret Howell, Moschino, Paul Smith, Tom Ford and TOPMAN not to mention new additions including Aquascutum Men’s, Barbour, Coach, Kilgour and Todd Lynn to name but a few, is proving that London Collections: Men is only moving forward.
THE CATWALKS It looks that majority of designers went for classic and minimalistic menswear designs for the A/W’15 season. In general, most of the collections seem to be dominated by black, shades of grey, white and navy blue, however,
some of the designers made their own work ‘memorable’ and standing out by using mix of different types of fabrics, cuts, injection of colour and bold prints. The four-day menswear extravaganza hit it off with non-conformist Topman Design catwalk, showing that 60’s and 70’s designs and prints could be re-invented and be still a part of the modern fashion landscape. The 60’s and 70’s theme continued throughout the whole collection, starting from striking tartan suits matched with flamboyant oversized faux fur coats and fury collars. Then, there were cropped jackets matched with rolled up denim trousers or flares and… overalls or, as some call it, one piece suits well adapted to models’ silhouettes. The 60’inspired Alex Mullins too. In his collection, Alex Mullins, is changing proportions of his garments and uses indigo denims, blanket, wool, velvet, chunky rib and canvas to re-interpret the decade. As a result, the collection feels raw, simple and minimalistic. A completely different approach to menswear was shown by Kit Neale, whose signature style of bold prints and contrasting colours was ever so present in his collection. Kit Neale used motifs of alphabet letters cleverly put together to form prints that are striking and playful at the same time. Use of deep hues of orange, navy blue, grey and black clashing with each other make the whole collection dynamic and fresh. Kit Neale is another designer suggesting having your trousers rolled up in A/W 15… Christopher Shannon’s collection oozed with wit, sarcasm and was a commentary on the not-so-glamorous life of a young designer dominated by financial strains that running a label entails and pressure of creating a commercially viable collections. Plastic carrier bags depicted on knitwear presented by Christopher Shannon with statements such as ‘Thanks 4 nothing’, ‘Save me’ and a motif of a can of ‘Broke’ cola were some of the slogans that conveyed Shannon’s general message ‘go broke or die tryin’. Wit, fun and colour were also present in Agi & Sam’s collection and it is all thanks to the kids from one of the primary schools that the designers visited. During their visit the designers asked the students to help design some of their outfits and, as it turned out, it paid off. The collection is not pretentious, nor saying ‘look at me, look at me’ but boasts sophistication and style by clever use of bold colours on a classic garment such as coat, ski jackets or simple trousers. Splashes of colour add interest to the whole collection and make it vibrant, cool and fun, something that definitely put many smiles on when the outfits hit the catwalk. I am sure that many felt like a kid in a toy shop… Mix of colours and patterns continued at Casley-Hayford catwalk show too, whose signature is to mix street wear with formal wear at the same time. Casley- Hayford proved that chiaroscuro, diffused lines and checks used in their A/W ’15 collection can create new gentler contrasts between shades of black, white and grey, juxtaposed with harsh brights: MA1 orange, hot pink and vibrant blue, resulting in the collection that looks crisp, elegant, sophisticated and masculine. Todd Lynn’s collection was definitely well thought through in terms of usability, function and cut. The designer created a collection with reversible pieces, removable sleeves attached by their epaulettes and military coats transforming into a cape with just a few zip adjustments. Electric green, indigo, blue and khaki gave the collection a distinct sleek military feel. A more relaxed and casual collection inspired by ninja and martial arts uniforms, was presented by Maharishi. Hooded coats, oversized jumpers and capes, above-the-knee length crew sweats, extended length pants, mesh balaclavas, camouflage
and landscape prints made the collection dynamic, edgy and utilitarian. Hardy Blechman, the designer behind the label, has always believed in creating environmentally sound, fair-trade produced, long-lasting, high-quality clothing, so it’s not surprising this collection includes natural fibres and latest technical developments such as melton wool or glass bead nylon. THE SHOWROOMS British Fashion Council has done a great job creating such a massive platform for designers to present their clothing and accessories lines not just on catwalks but in the showroom spaces where one could immerse themselves into the world of men’s clothes and accessories. One of the first designers that definitely stood out was Rachel James. This young, emerging London based designer is unquestionably breaking the boundaries of menswear. Chunky, oversized knitwear pieces in eye catching colours and large prints of flowers make Rachel james’s Granny Flower Power mens’ collection non-conformist, imaginative, adventurous and daring. As for accessories, one of the designers who is not afraid of being bold but still keeping her shoes and boots collection wearable and functional was Catherina Belluardo. Introduction of colourful herringbone prints mixed with monochromatic stripes add interest, fun and excitement to man’s wardrobe. Far from boring was Rosemary Goodenough collection of luxury silk scarves. The designer turned her oil paintings to create a luxury range of scarves made of high quality silk twill. The scarves can be tied and styled in a variety of ways to bring out the richness of the colours, which range from the wild to the subtle, as they mix in different folds. Except for clothes, shoes, scarves and pocket -squares, each gent would need a watch. Uniform Wares watches attract with simplicity, minimalism and timelessness. The brand was created by Patrick Bek and Olivier Fowles as a result of search for minimal timepieces.
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INTERVIEW BY ACCESSORIES SENIOR EDITOR ADRIELYN CHRISTI Adrielyn: So, how did you get your start in the fashion world? Cyprien: With passion, love for fashion and everything that surrounds me. I never gave up. I made a good research to find my own style. Adrielyn: You are so creative in your style. How do you choose your looks? Cyprien: Creativity comes from the soul, because I am a free person and I love the innovative ideas. I love playing with colors and fabrics when I make the research for my looks. In my mind, my style is a mix between my past and my future. I love fashion and tailoring street. Especially, I love “Made In Italy” for my looks. Adrielyn: Who inspired you at the beginning of the blogging world? Cyprien: No one pushed me to do this in my life. Somebody recommended me this world thanks to my style. I studied the whole system, and then I gave my contribution to the fashion industry as a blogger/influencer. Adrielyn: I know that you met important people from the fashion industry. How did they inspire you? Cyprien: The nice thing is that everything is born with a passion. I wanted to see this world that I had seen for years on media average .I knew very many people, at the beginning I was shy, but passion drove me to get all the way there in fashion . I worked for years to mature and in recent years many people from fashion and music industry love my style, they know who I am and what I have become; you can say that we became friends and some of them are fans of my style ... I still remember the meeting with Valentino Garavani, Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani and many others. These people inspired me so much and gave me strength to move forward. Adrielyn: What do you think about the ‘’fight’’ between bloggers and fashion editors? Cyprien: My thought about this are very simple . I moved to Milan with a different goal but the contacts and love for fashion led me to do this, but remember, it was not my goal, it was just my own way of communication. Speaking about my style through trademarks or fashion shows gave me an international visibility, because for me there is the taste and respect for this work. I am not a blogger and do not call me a blogger. I’m just a fashion influencer, with an ultimate goal, rework everything and collaborate with different fashion trademarks, not only wearing their products but making a contribution through my vision of fashion ... That’s all!
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Cyprien
www.cyprienthatsall.com Photos by: 12yoz
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DAVID CATALÁN | FW 15/16 http://modalisboa.pt/desfiles/fw-1516_36 From the editorial: NO SIGNAL by photographer: Carlota Andrade - https://www.facebook.com/CarlotaAndradePhotography Assistant Photography: Tânia Lopes Stylist: Luiz Gonçalves Make Up & Hair: Heryka Lucena Models: Ivan Silva @ Face Models and Vitoria Butkovska @ Karacter Sweater, Jacket, Shorts, Dress, Skirt and Pants - David Catalán David Catalan, based in both Oporto, Portugal and Madrid, Spain was founded in 2012. Graduated in 2014, after two years spent in ESAD, David Catalán’s final thesis “Coverless SS15” was presented at EGO runway at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid winning the prestigious award Mercedes-Benz Fashion Talent. NO SIGNAL “No Signal” appears as a collection with a strong aesthetic sense related to the media and technology. The technology and its evolution in time brought vulnerability, errors and loss of signal. These technological drawbacks arise as the direction of this collection. Noise patterns away from the black and white and dyed in red, encompassing various tones of the same range, creating a chromatic chronology complemented by fuel printing and copper tones adding technological touch, while the interference signals results from digital corruption and the effects of staggered sections of the damaged image builds and gives structure to each garment. The collection is completed with small details of electrical plugs printed in 3D wired in elastic, which give volume to pieces.
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Top 5
Gluten-free Beauty Products
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By TPM Senior Beauty Editor Erin Schweinsberg First of all, why use gluten-free cosmetics? Whilst research is limited, it has been suggested that people with celiac’s disease should not only stay away from gluten in their diet, but also stay away from gluten in their cosmetics too. Experts believe that some people may be sensitive to products such as lipstick or lip gloss that contain gluten; and if ingested, can trigger the symptoms associated with celiac’s disease. The sensitivity level of a person with celiac’s disease will vary from person to person, but seeing as though the average woman will consume 4 pounds of lipstick in her lifetime; it’s better to be safe rather than sorry when it comes to gluten! Here’s 5 top gluten-free beauty products to try!
Trish McEvoy- Beauty Booster Lip and Cheek Color
www.trishmcevoy.com $30.00
This beautiful 2 in 1 gluten-free beauty product is perfect for any woman- celiac or not! The Beauty Booster Lip and Cheek adds a stunning pop of color to your daily makeup routine, they’re also easy to apply and have just the right amount of pigment to bring your cheek bones and lips to life! They’re available in 5 different colors, Perfect Plum and Perfect Rose are my 2 favorites- try them today!
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Afterglow- Organic Infused Lip Liner
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www.afterglowcosmetics.com $22.00 Red Apple Lipstick- Sun Sparkles Lip Gloss
www.redapplelipstick.com $18.50 This wonderful lip gloss is not only gluten-free, it’s also vegan, and paraben-free! It has a hint of peach coloring which helps it blend naturally with any lip shade, and it also contains vitamin E to moisturize your lips too! This gloss also has a slight spearmint scent which leaves your lips feeling minty and refreshed- a great addition to any makeup bag!
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Londontown- Kur: Restorative Nail Cream
www.londontownusa.com $35.00
This beautiful lip liner is made from 100% organic ingredients! The soothing botanicals in this product create a moisturizing lip liner perfect for any woman, and it also has long lasting color! Not only is this product gluten-free, it also contains no parabens and no talcum powder; and it’s available in 4 gorgeous shades! Try this quick tip when it comes to lip liner: color your whole lip with the lip pencil before applying your lipstick. This will create a long lasting color base all over your lips, you’ll find you won’t have to reapply your lipstick as often, as when your lipstick starts to wear off, you’ll still have your beautiful lip pencil shade providing some color coverage underneath!
Cowgirl Dirt- Wild West Blush
www.cowgirldirt.com $18.00 Cowgirl Dirt are a brand known for their great organic, gluten-free, mineral makeup! All products contain vitamins, minerals, and anti-oxidants to help rejuvenate and nourish your skin. The line of Wild West Blushes are pigmented and vibrant, and with 9 different shades of cool, warm, and neutral tones to choose from; this is a must have item for your gluten-free cosmetic collection!
This is a paraben-free, gluten-free, and also vegan, nail product! It was created to replenish and restore nail protein (keratin), and to balance the natural oils in the nail to strengthen and nourish them. This cruelty-free brand have also created a line of gluten-free nail polish to accompany their nail care products; a great idea for anyone that’s sensitive to gluten but still wants beautiful nails! Complete your manicure with some great products from Londontown!
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WWW.AUGUSTIIN-TEBOUL.COM AUGUSTIN TEBOUL FALL/WINTER 2015/2016 WORN BY PEOPLE WHO MAKE US SEE SOME
SOUNDS OF BLACK. PARCE QUE LE NOIR VOUS VA SI BIEN. HOW DO YOU WEAR IT? THE ECHO OF NONCHALANCE SOUNDS LIKE DARKNESS. GIVE ME YOUR ATTITUDE, YOU ARE MY INSPIRATION. BE MY MUSE JUST FOR ONE DAY. IN AND ALL BLACK.
MANY THANKS TO ALL THE PEOPLE WHO HELPED MAKE THIS PROJECT HAPPEN! PHOTOGRAPHY: STEFAN MILEV SHOES: SHOEPASSION MAKE-UP BY: PATRICIA HOSS, CHRISTINA VACIRCA, JULIE SKOK, GABRIELLE THEURER AND GIULY VALENT HAIR BY: SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL BY JUDITH SÄNGER, LISA ZEITLER, ALINE HAFEZI AND KARLA NEFF
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CHRISTIANE ARP, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF GERMAN VOGUE, IN DAS STUE, BERLIN 2014
IRIS BERBEN, ACTRESS, SOHO HOUSE BERLIN, 2014
ANIKA, SINGER, IN MUSIC STUDIO, BERLIN 2014
DIRK VON LOWTZOW, SINGER, IN BAR TIER, BERLIN 2014
EVA & ADELE, ARTISTS, IN THEIR STUDIO, BERLIN 2014
DONATA WENDERS, PHOTOGRAPHER, BERLIN 2015
Augustin Teboul INTERVIEW BY TPM EDITOR FLORENTA POPA WWW.AUGUSTIIN-TEBOUL.COM When two talents meet and work together, the result can be a successful womenswear label. It is the case of Annelie Augustin and Odely Teboul, who both founded Augustin Teboul in 2011. 1. What sparked your interest in fashion? We are both creative persons and have the aime to express ourselves through textile, because in fashion the creations are taking live on the body, and that’s great. There are a lot of technical restrictions that make the creative process very interesting. 2. What does fashion mean to you? It’s a statement about who you are and what you want to express. While dressing up you choose to say something. 3. What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your work? How would you describe your latest collection to someone who has never seen it? Nonchalance, decadence and elegance. It’s a monochromatic collection, balancing between sobriety and extravagance. It’s a work of shapes and details. It’s dark, feminine, timeless. 4. Could you describe in few words the type of woman who would wear, day by day, your creations? Is there any celebrity who would perfectly fit your description? A woman that is confident, she has a very personal and strong style. She knows how to be elegant and rock’n roll at the same time. 5. What do you think that people don’t know about designing a clothing line? With all the mass market, people lost the sense of value for handcraft and are not much aware of the real costs of making garments. 6. Could you both tell our readers, what’s the piece of clothing, in your opinion, that every woman should have in her wardrobe? A little black dress. 7. Where do you find your inspiration? Are you more inspired when you listen to a specific type of music or do you prefer quiet places? Inspiration comes from the unexpected beauty. It’s about seeing the unusual in the everyday life. Inspiration comes when you don’t expect it, anywhere. 9. How different your opinions and visions are when it comes to create a new collection? Our creative process is based on a lot of exchange. We are making every idea evoluate, we do not stick to fix ideas, but rather take the diferent point of views in consideration to create. 10. You both combined your visions and talents in 2009, after working for Jean Paul Gaultier and Yohji Yamamoto. Did you decide to work together in 2009 or before and you waited a while? We met by chance in 2009 and decided spontaneously to work on a small project together. It wasn’t meant to be a label at first. 11. Could you name few designers you both admire most? O: Alexander Mc Queen, jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix. A: Haider Ackerman and Yohji Yamamoto. 12. Where do you best sell your creations? USA is a good market for us. 13. The most exciting milestones for Augustin Teboul ………….. When our first collection was published by the German Vogue, and all the prizes we won! 14. Would you create a collection for men as well, in the future? Or plus size? We do consider creating menswear. Trend Privé Magazine 140
ULRIKE THEUSNER, ARTIST AND MODEL, BERLIN 2015
J.J MARTIN, FOUNDER LADOUBLEJ.COM, EDITOR WALLPAPER* AND MSJ MAGAZINES, AT HOME, MILAN 2015
IRIS BERBEN, ACTRESS, SOHO HOUSE BERLIN, 2014
MERET BECKER, SINGER AND ACTRESS, BERLIN 2014
NADINE BARTH, AT HOME, BERLIN 2014
JUTTA VON BRUNKAU, MODEL, AT HOME, BERLIN 2014
JORINDE VOIGT, ARTIST, IN HER STUDIO, BERLIN 2014
VERONIKA HEILBRUNNER, AT HOME, BERLIN 2014 (L),
STEFAN MILEV, PHOTOGRAPHER, MILAN, 2015
ALL ABOUT NEW YORK
MBFW WITH TONY VON THELEN