Taylor’d with Style
A Pink Legacy By JeanAnn Taylor
F
ashion during the early 1900s was filled with dramatic changes. In the beginning, women wore corsets with layers of petticoats, they also kept their ankles and arms covered. Then, two women introduced fresh ideas transforming the path of fashion design forever: Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Coco’s designs eliminated cinched-in waists and brought a mannish, comfortable vibe to women’s fashion. Coco’s designs were elegant and sophisticated. She made casual sportswear popular. Coco Chanel was considered to be the uncontested queen of modern fashion. Then, in the mid 1920s, along came Elsa Schiaparelli. Elsa Schiaparelli was born in Rome in 1890, seven years after Coco’s birth. She was born into an aristocratic family, one that was too busy and emotionally distant to give her the affection and attention she needed. She was expected to marry a wealthy, yet unattractive Russian in a pre-planned arrangement. However, in 1911 she published a series of sensual poems. When they were discovered by her parents, she was sent to a convent in Switzerland. Unhappy there, she went on a hunger strike and was allowed to leave. To escape the pre-planned marriage, Elsa moved to London to work as a nanny. This was the first time she felt true freedom. It was also there that she met Count Wilhelm Wendt de Kerlor and fell in love. They married in 1914 and moved to New York in 1916. On the trip to America, Elsa met Gabrielle Picabia, the wife of a Dada painter. Their friendship opened the door for Elsa to meet many early 1900’s avant-garde artists—artists who inspired her throughout her career.
10 | 50+ Living | November 2020
In 1920, Elsa had her first child, nicknamed Gogo. Sadly, her happiness as a wife and mother was short-lived as her husband began spending her inheritance—and time away from home. To make matters worse, Gogo contracted poliomyelitis. Elsa then packed up and headed to Paris where she could find the medical treatments Gogo desperately needed. There, Elsa found a job at a local antique shop. After work she frequented restaurants where artists gathered and became infatuated with the surreal art of the era. Elsa’s life reached a turning point when she accompanied a friend to a fitting with Paul Poiret. As she waited on her friend, she tried on a few of his designs. Poiret watched and thought she would make an excellent model. He saw the value of her wearing his designs around town, so he let her borrow a few. By wearing his high-fashion designs, Elsa learned to embrace the luxurious lifestyle of the wealthy. She fell in love with well-fitting clothes, high-quality materials, innovative designs, and saturated colors. In the mid-1920s, Elsa continued to surround herself with artists. Their influence led her to design simple, yet radical garments. One of her first creations was a hand-knit pullover sweater with a black and white trompe-l’oeil* motif. Her design was an instant success. By 1927, she opened the doors to her fashion house, Schiaparelli—Pour le Sport. Her use of abstract motifs and unexpected color-play was a key element in her unique designs. These innovative garments included jumpsuits with visible zippers, culottes, strong-shouldered suits, and reversible black and white evening gowns—with plunging necklines. In 1934, she was the first female fashion designer to be featured on the cover of Time magazine.
