MAGIC AT THE END OF THE ROAD Immerse

Nestled among the rocks and the trees, the Wickaninnish Inn feels as though it’s always been part of the landscape.

Magic at the End of the Road

Rimmed with oldgrowth forests and studded with sandy beaches, Tofino’s pristine landscape beckons the heart in need of peace and adventure.

By SARA SATTERLEE

I’M A SUCKER FOR LOVE. For an awkward attempt at a first kiss, a glance that takes a quick turn into a stare, and those butterflies. Yet I found myself traveling on Valentine’s Day without a date. By choice, to be sure. I didn’t go on a mission to find someone; rather my heart was seeking a wonderful and a self-reflective getaway.

I feel a little sheepish admitting this, but when I was in Tofino, the town sent me love letters and sunsets. e four

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Watch as the weather turns and rolls, as the mist comes in and the waves pick up, from the warmth and comfort of a seaside window.

gorgeous sunsets left me enchanted still today.

Tofino. It’s such a fun word to say and it’s even more fun to visit. It sits at the end of the road, on the west side of Vancouver Island. Known as Canada’s unofficial surf capital, people of all ages flock to the beach in their Canadian bikinis — 4mm wetsuits — and catch gorgeous green waves year-round.

But while surfing might be the town’s biggest draw, it’s far from the only reason to visit. And after a few years of travel starvation, I was desperate to find a getaway that was close enough to Seattle, yet far enough away that I felt like I was actually getting away. Tofino seemed like an easy choice.

60-Minutes from Seattle

For many, the trek to Tofino involves a ferry boat ride and a three-hour drive along a two-lane highway. But for those in the know, it’s just a 60-minute charter flight from Seattle to Tofino aboard Kenmore Air’s Pilatus PC-12. e flight was easily one of the most beautiful and enjoyable I’ve taken. e approach over the coastline was breathtaking and over before I knew it. When I landed at Long Beach Airport, the town’s only taxi — Tofino Taxi — was busy. More on this later.

Part of the fun in traveling to new places is exploring the town’s food scene. It’s rumored there are no bad restaurants in Tofino, and I couldn’t agree more. What better way to put the rumor to the test than to grab a bite? My first stop: Shed, located in the heart of downtown (461 Campbell St.). , where hearty burgers and satisfying bowls were served with warmth. I tried the Soto Ayam bowl, an Indonesian chicken soup loaded with egg noodles and the jammy yolk of a six-minute egg. It was filling without being heavy, studded with just the right amount of

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chili pepper to encourage two refreshing cocktails rather than one.

Breakfast & Love Notes

e following day began with coffee in town at Rhino Coffee House, another great establishment in the heart of Tofino (430 Campbell St.). A fantastic coffee shop famous for its donuts. Make no mistake, the donuts were impressive but I’m a cookie girl and one look at those big, buttery cookies with perfectly crispy brown edges had me.

As I meandered past the town’s storefronts, I saw handwritten valentine notes taped to the doors. e sweet love letters were cut into hearts. I read as many as I could on the way back to meet my ride to brunch at e Wickaninnish Inn (known to the locals as ‘e Wick’). “Be brave,” one read. “Let all that you do be done with love,” said another. “One little word can light up someone’s day,” proclaimed a neon yellow heart.

One of the draws of Tofino is its intimacy but it comes with limitations. In particular, it lacks a lot of taxis. But the one taxi driver, Mike, was a mountain of local knowledge. roughout the week Mike got to know me pretty well. He always had a suggestion of what I should do next, and for that I was grateful. On the way to brunch at e Wick he showed me points of interest and shared a little history about the town. It’s always fun to have a local perspective to draw from.

Charles McDiarmid and the Wick’s resident carver, Feather George reminisce about the inn’s rich history. Below, the Wickaninnish Inn makes even the simplest of meals an experience.

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Brunch at the Wickaninnish Inn

photo parsons sara I felt prepared when I arrived, and I was thankful. e Wick was both stunning and understated, rustic and beautiful, built into the bluff without changing the landscape. Long thought of as the ‘Inn that built Tofino,’ travelers come for the experiences they’ve read about: surfing and storm watching. ey return because walking in feels like a

warm embrace. e beautifully carved doors were opened for me and warm greetings followed as I was led into a windowed dining room. It sat above the rocks and splashing waves. I could see the seals and the otters. I was told the whales would be coming by soon.

I was dining with the Wick’s own Charles McDiarmid, managing director since 1996 when it opened. We ordered coffee. I read the menu like one reads a list of their favorite things, salivating one item after the next. Four kinds of Eggs Benedict. Crab fried rice. Carrot cake French toast. I had heard the Smoked Salmon Rosti was the signature dish and went with that. e crispy potatoes and poached eggs served with horseradish cream cheese and a dill hollandaise sauce is heavenly. Order it,

You’ll want to wear a wetsuit year-round while surfing in Tofino. The water temperature stays relatively consistent, ranging from a brisk 48°F degrees in winter and a ‘toasty’ 59°F degrees in summer. Where the weak WiFi disappears and the water becomes glassy, there’s a quietness that overtakes you.

maybe two or three times. It’s too good to have just once.

After brunch, Charles and I explored the inn. It was built next to his parent’s cabin, on the land where he played and explored as a kid. He cares deeply about preserving the land’s history and sharing its story. e tour took us on a visit to the Wick’s private library, showcasing the local history. e hotel’s awards were also given a special place of honor here. It’s a remarkable list of accolades that included many for Charles. It was clear his whole heart was invested in this place. I was lucky to witness his enthusiasm.

Following our visit to the library, we visited the bar. No details were overlooked, right down to the heating elements Charles had installed under the bar so guests wouldn’t experience a chill when relaxing at the carved marble bar top. ere were similarly thoughtful designs threaded throughout the Wick. It’s been said that ‘the devil is in the details,’ and I would counter with ‘love is in the small details.’ e principles of rustic elegance, texture, and harmony with the land and sea are woven thoughtfully throughout each room.

Maybe it was the glass of port waiting in my room. Or the respite I never knew I needed in the soaker tub with a view. For Charles, it is the beams and wooden doors carved by Henry Nolla that adorn buildings throughout the property. Henry’s Carving Shed still stands nearby, where the forest meets the beach. Resident carver Feather George apprenticed with Nolla and keeps the tradition alive. Charles maintains the Carving Shed is the heart and soul of the Wick and it’s hard to argue with that.

Walking the beach is a beloved pastime for those who call Tofino home and those who visit.

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Storm Watching, Wave Surfing & Sauna Floating

I woke up early the next morning to see if there were any dawn patrol surfers. e weather was foggy and misty, with no visible surf. I made a quick pivot. Based on the weather report, this was as close as I was going to get to storm watching while I was there. So I embraced what Mother Nature was serving up outside the window and ordered room service.

I had a latte and the Power Bowl, a wonderful medley of Elderflower and Chia yogurt topped with fresh berries, poached pear granola and bee pollen. I didn’t expect it to be as good as the signature dish I had a brunch the day before. I was wrong. It was fantastic. My latte even had an artful foam heart. (More love letters from Tofino.)

After a little nourishment and attempted weather watching, I gave Mike a ring. Most people come for the surfing. e hippie vibe is strong here — amongst both those native to the area

and those who now call the place home.

After asking around about the best surf school, there were two main winners: Tofino Paddle Surf and Surf Sisters. While I love a good paddle session, I had a different thrill in mind — a floating sauna. e excursion is run by Black Rock Resort in nearby Ucluelet. It begins with a 30-minute boat ride from the marina in Tofino to a remote cove. As we reached the sauna, snowy mountain peaks could be seen rising through the water’s surface and disappearing into the air. e Floating Sauna barge was tucked into a cove. It felt a million miles away from everything. e experience was designed for a full day, off-line immersion with nature, stoking the heat in the sauna, plunging into the chilly Clayoquot Sound, and paddling around wondering if this is heaven on earth.

It was all of that and more. is was the middle of February and there we were laying in our swimsuits on a barge, keeping warm beside the sauna’s hot wood stove, and cooling off in hammocks. Or for those who have fire in their veins, a flying saltwater plunge into the sound’s icy waters offers a quick refresh. I do not have fire in my veins; the hammock was just fine. e only sound was our friendly chatter and the trees creaking in the light wind. Seals came by for a visit. It was peaceful, refreshing, and soul-filling.

Once we were feeling spiritually renewed, it was time to board the boat and head back to the marina. On the return, guests were invited to pull shrimp and crab pots. It was a delight to see them filled with morsels from the sea. e catch was prepared at 1909 Kitchen at the marina (634 Campbell St.). e meal was a deliciously-perfect-ending to a perfect day.

Upon returning to the Wick, the sun was setting and the surf was up at Chesterman Beach. I walked the beach. Everyone walked the beach it seemed. Everyone smiled, locals and tourists alike. Tofino was little different like that. A little friendlier. And I loved every second of it.

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