Rebecca Proud L4 FT Buying and Merchandising Trend Report October 2017
S/S 18
CONTENTS BRUTAL ELEGANCE Mood board Inspiration Colour Print Fabrics Detail/Trim Key silhouettes Key Designers Street Style
PSYCHOTROPICAL Mood Board Inspiration Colour Print Fabrics Detail/Trim Key Silhouettes Key Designers Street Style
Brutal Elegance shows a tougher take on romantic dressing. It sees painterly floral appliques mixed with punk studding, which makes it become more artful. It takes its inspiration from Dan Colen, who uses metal studding to create delicate pieces. The whole trend is charecterised by bohemian, romantic styles but juxtaposed with more masculine elements to create a look that feels harder, and newer. It takes on a layered approach, in which textured fabrics and eclectic embellishments are particularly imporant, making it perfect for pre summer/festival season.
Psychotropical sees lush botanical themes take on a heightened sense, with motifs that have a hallucinogenic quality. Colours are deep and saturated, and the juxtaposition of the natural and the man made creates an unusual tension that feels new for the season. As a peak summer trend, swimwear is a key. Beautiful materials and patterns are used to turn beachwear into day wear, from day to night. Silhouettes are simple and fluid, rather than restrictive and materials used offer a sense of refinement and luxury. Classic summer tones are juxtaposed with lush darks.
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MOOD BOARD
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INSPIRATION
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COLOUR 16 5904 TCX Wrought Iron 19 0303 TCX Jet Black
18 1762 TC Hibiscus
CORE COLOURS
15 1906 TCX Zephyr
13 0942 TCX Amber Yellow 16 1120 TCX Starfish 19 3929 TCX Vintage Indigo
19 1218 TCX Potting Soil
19 4023 TCX Blue Nights
The overall colour scheme for Brutal Elegance is dark, warm and juicy. The deep reds and sunbaked yellows bring you out of winter into spring. They are balanced by cooler pinks and blues which bring a hint of summer. The sharp contrast between colours like jet black and hibiscus creates an appeal that is both feminine and strong.
ADDITIONAL COLOURS
11 4300 TCX Marshmallow
19 1656 TCX Rio Red
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PRINT Prints for S/S 18 showcases the rise of ‘girl gangs’ and female only subcultures. With patches and embellishments being made to garments, especially jackets, girls can stand out and show their individuality. Romantic roses and hearts are paired with gritty slogans and dark motifs. Inspiration taken from tattoo designs with classic blacks and reds but for a fresher and more feminine look they are combined with brights and pastels.
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FABRICS
DENIM
LEATHER
Diverse global references merge for a new way in textiles. The materials are shredded and weaved into a unique and highly personalised design. For Brutal Elegance the fabrics can be separated into 3 categories. Denim and Leather are the 2 main components featuring in this brand with the other category because more detailed areas such as lace, stonewash and intricate cut outs. Washed mid-tones and pastels keep the look fresh for summer 2018.
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DETAIL/TRIM This trend is all about the sharp and the edgy. Studs will be the main detail in Spring ‘18, they are essentially more dark and autumnul however paired with the embellishments and embroidery it creates a more fun and vibrant look. Chunky metals and buttons will help to make simple outfits more chic and individual. Lace and sheer materials will make this prominently dark look more feminine and let women embrace their feminine side. The main colour scheme for details such as buttons is silver or black as these will stand out.
BUTTONS
STUDS
METALS
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KEY SILHOUETTES
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KEY DESIGNERS CHLOE
.Juxtaposition of lace dresses and metallic rings. .Effortless chic
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
.Summer shower .Re-imagined .Re-constructed tailoring
BOTTEGA VENETA
VERSACE
TOM FORD
.Engineered gracefully .Revitalising .Cascaded Jewels
.Individual and empowering. .Re-interpretation .Futuristic
.Flamboyant recreations. .Sex appeal .Glamorous
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STREET STYLE
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MOOD BOARD
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INSPIRATION
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COLOUR
8720 C Metallic Coated
12 0738 TCX Yellow Cream
18 0130 TCX Cactus
19 4023 TCX Blue Nights
17 1842 TCX Azalea
18 4733 TCX Enamel Blue 19 4005 TCX Stretch Limo
ADDITIONAL COLOURS
CORE COLOURS
19 3900 TCX Pavement
10287 C Metallic Coated
METALLICS
11 4300 TCX Marshmallow
Psychotropical is an exaggerated take on nature. Lush rainforests inspire the constrasting colours with an artificial feel blurring the line between reality and fairytale. Tropical climates can be seen in the shadows of the dark colours, such as Blue Nights, compared with the sun and brightness of the lighter colours, like Yellow Cream. The dark blues and greens are essential for this range while the pink and orange highlights gives it a strong summery feel for S/S 18.
16 1462 TCX Golden Poppy
S/S 18
PRINT Pyschotropical is the natural and manmade combining. Lush botanical patterns take on heightened colours and patterns. Flora and fauna adopt soft glow in the dark effects while pops of neon peak through dark backgrounds. For the perfect S/S 18 look tones are more saturated and brushstrokes offer botanical patterns more of an abstract quality. Shapes and outlines are bald and paired with geometrics it creates a hypnotic feel. The naturally formed patterns mixed with the harsh colours create the perfect contrast for an imaginative and individual garment.
S/S 18
FABRICS
MODEL EXAMPLES
Psychotropical offers an almost hyperreal take on nature, with phenominal textures and mesmerising effects. Amazing movement is created on fabrics with embellishments, glitter and tactile fringing. It gives the garments a sculpted quality. A glisten/shine comes through in metallics and glitters with irredescent coatings and fancy sheers. Natural patterns are used to create colourful and abstract zig zag/stripe patterns with a mixture of heavy and light yarns. Plastics and synthetics are recycled, creating an unnatural paradise. Perfect for Summer 18’.
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DETAIL/TRIM STRUCTURED COLLARS FLARES
S/S 18 Psychotropical will see an eclectic mix. The collars and shirts will be loose fitted but solid shapes with lots of dresses and tops seeing the ruffle come back. Fringing will see a big come back on lots of garments as well as accessories such as bags and earrings. The patterns and details around the neck will attract attention to the patterns and shapes with most garments becoming more free flowing at the bottom.
RUFFLES AND FRINGING
HIGH DETAILED NECK
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KEY SILHOUETTES
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KEY DESIGNERS MARC JACOBS
MARNI
.Bold Prints .Exaggerated Colour .Psychadelic
.Exaggerated shapes .Full skirts .Vivid contrasts
CELINE
.Broad shoulders .Comfort .Wearability
LOUIS VUTTON
DELPOZO
.Embroidery .Victorian inspired .Romance
.Colour and Romance .Crafted precision .Flamenco touches
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STREET STYLE
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REBECCA PROUD