Mechanism Magazine by Rebecca Raymond

spring/summer 2018

Mechanism Mechanism

Issue 1. Vol.1

Contents Editors Letter p.7 Bold eyes to hypnotize p.18 Chunky is funky p.30 Erykah Badu p.34 The corset p.42 Instagram Vs reality p.45 Clubhouse Clothing p.48 IAMDDB p.64 Height matters too p.72 What to wear this summer p.74 The Japanese influence on fashion p.80 Sophie Murphy p.86 How to be confident in your own style p.96 Double denim p.100 Lil Kim p.112 The resurecction of the bum bag p.128

Creative direction- Rebecca Raymond Photography- Shannon Lynch Styling- Rebecca Raymond Model- Emily Goodge

Editors Letter Welcome to the first annual issue of Mechanism. This first issue is dedicated to the young creatives of this world and to popular culture. These two worlds go hand-in-hand with each other to produce many things. The stresses of this capitalistic world that we live in and are exploited to daily has taken its toll on many people. Especially in the creative industry, one in which the majority of young emerging artists are working to get in to. This first issue explores the process and journey that the individual undergoes to develop/enhance their craft or creative aspirations. It looks at young creatives who are longing to get into the fashion and creative industries, meanwhile taking a glance at popular culture. The popular culture aspect of this issue shows the individuals who are already a part of this world and how they got there. How the world and the effects of it and society are projected onto us and the toll it takes in slowing down our creative process is also discovered. The contributors in this magazine are a voice for the younger generation who are the future. They provide enlightening insights into their chosen path. These pages have been filled with work of some of the most talented individuals and students who truly care about the industry and what it holds for them and their future. The work, images and concept presented in this magazine reflect what is all around us and the issues discussed are still prevalent. I am proud to showcase the variety of content and visual imagery in this magazine and on the website. www.mechanismmagazine.wordpress.com Follow us on Instagram @mechanismmag to keep in touch. I hope you enjoy this issue, Rebecca Raymond

Take a seat 8

Creative direction- Rebecca Raymond Photography- Shannon Lynch Styling- Rebecca Raymond Model- Emily Goodge

Bold eyes to hypnotize Go bright and bold or go home

Image courtesy of Refinery29

To achieve this head-turning trend, minimal sheer foundation is a must, as well as a natural glow with highlighted cheekbones, a slight colour to the cheeks with some blush, glossy lips and wellgroomed eyebrows are the main key factors to pulling off this look. It is sure to give you those irresistible mesmerizing eyes. The number one beauty ‘rule’ that goes around in the beauty community is that you must not pair a dark lip with dark bold eyes as it will take away the attention on the eyes or lips, whatever you are choosing to want to stand out. However, the catwalks say otherwise, with some designers having their models sporting a dark lip with bold eyes or a nude lip with bold eyes, the choice is yours. Below are Mechanisms favourite eye looks straight from the runway. Dont be afraid to experiement with colour and have fun with it.

Although designer shows are all about the clothes, we couldn’t keep our eyes off the encapsulating bold eye trend that was flooding the catwalks. The brighter the better. Throw out all your routine ways of cut-creases, strong contours and perfectly sculpted brows. The revival of the 80s is turning to beauty to make its comeback. Get your eyeshadow palettes ready, because the 80s isn’t just a fashion trend this season, bright and bold neon colours splashed on the eyelids are throwing fireworks into the mix and we are rooting for it to stay. Everything that your favourite beauty guru on Youtube has taught you goes out the window when it comes to getting this look.

Image courtesy of Pinterest

Image courtesy of Enfnts Terribles

Image courtesy of Harper’s Bazaar

Ashley Williams FW18 – Tie-dye sunsets seamlessly blended into one another paired with a black vinyl lip. The rebel to conformative

Missoni – Neon apple green never looked so tasty. This graphic liner is a great alternative to eyeshadow if you want to switch it up.

makeup looks.

Image courtesy of Harper’s Bazaar

Image courtesy of The Glazz Magazine

Halpern- Lost in her eyes. Shimmering shades of bright purples and lilacs, pearlescent lids with peacock inspired eyelashes.

Palmer Harding – Abstract eyeshadow with no blending of the edges to create some intensity and harshness.

Image courtesy of @indecisividiot on Pinterest

All eyes on me 21

Illustrations by Luke Attwood

Bloody Shoes 28

Design by Luke Attwood

Chunky is funky The Dad aesthetic is back with a vengeance

Image courtesy of Pinterest

The chunkier the better and the uglier the better in the case of this exaggerated trend. Over the past few months with each new release of trainers that has debuted, the chunkier they seem to get. Beefy soles, thick spongey soles, the minimalist trainer is dead and gone and it looks like the platformed trainers are here to stay for a while. Chunky sneakers have been the biggest trend of 2017 with the main models such as the Balenciaga triple S, Raf Simons X Adidas Ozweego and the Yeezy wave runner 700 all making a shaking impact on our bank accounts.

This orthopaedic unconventional trend has dominated the sneaker world, with sportswear brands and high-fashion houses all replicating the structure of this infamous shoe to make a statement. Many factors have contributed to the re-emergence of the chunky dad shoe, and one of them you could say was down to creative genius Raf Simons. Who took the dull and overlooked 1990s Adidas sneaker by applying the juxtaposition of his style, aesthetic and design. Gone was the basic plain Stan Smiths, and with that went slim, skinny, and tapered-clothing that

had its run-in fashion. And hello was the arrival of cropped wide-legged trousers, cargo pants and chunky sneakers in exaggerated proportions. Over the last few seasons on the runway minimalist clothing and evening wear has been a reoccurring theme with lots of sports-luxe, more sequins, solid colours and floral gowns. Our focus has turned to our feet and shoes on steroids seem to be giving us our fix of drama. From Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Ami, Adidas, Phillip Plein and Prada. Every brand is emulating this trend to their own taste and signature style. There have

Image courtesy of gq.com

been numerous offerings of oversized trends, from oversized pants, jumpers, scarves, bags, and bomber jackets. But never oversized footwear, until now. Tis the season to experiment and up your shoe game, time to replace those basic all white flat trainer pumps with some bold logos, big soles, and elliptical shapes. Pairing this meaty trend with minimalistic pieces and colours will ensure that all the attention is on your fire shoe game this summer. Chunky white socks will balance out the thickness of the shoe of your foot. Also, pairing the trend with floral feminine dresses

adds a subtle contrast of sporty and girly. These exaggerated silhouettes are a nostalgic 90s throwback, with everyone wanting to dress like their dads and grandads nowadays, who ever thought? Comfort combined with athleisure. The chunky dad trainer is ideal for running around and its ease of wear ability has made them the most sought after shoe as of late. Most of the demographic wearing these chunky dad shoes are predominantly female, women are the new sneaker geeks with streetwear being far less dominated by men.

Never before was it forecasted that ugly trainers would be in fashion and the accessory of choice in each fashion show. At Louis Vuitton, The Archlight sneaker took Nicolas GhesquiĂ¨re 4 years to make. The chunky trainers are crafted from a nylon-satin mix with a striking curved bouncy rubber sole that had heads turning. A thorough process to ensure your shoe game is at its best. At Balenciaga, The Triple S, which sounds like the name of a beefy wrestler, is the quintessential big mac of all chunky dad trainers. The triple effect, three soles stacked on top of each other has been a complete sellout. The sneaker sector is growing at a healthy rate with the category upping by 30% in spring/summer 2018. The limitedness of the releases of these shoes have had a lasting effect on sneaker fans who want to get their hands on the latest collaborations and has created the moreish symptom among sneaker geeks. The constant need for the coolest collections of footwear.

Image courtesy of society6.com

Erykah Badu

musically and stylistically. Not only does her vocals hypnotize but also her style and artistic side. Ms Badu herself is very fond of masculine style clothing and silhouettes associated with it. With her staple being overalls, which she wears basically every day. It is clear to say that she is a mastermind when it comes to layering accessories and outerwear, the shape of the body is hidden behind all of the fabrics and aesthetically pleasing jewels and crystals. Her ability to excel in experimentation and improvisation proves through her looks, her aesthetic eye does not let her down. Her music touches the souls of many as it is all about Erykah Badu is not only the queen of soul, but the the human struggle and human experience and how queen of memorable fashion we as a race are trying to cope with everyday life. In Erica Abi Wright, also known as Erykah Badu, Badou- a recent interview on The Breakfast Club, Erykah said “We are all fucking depressed, the world is in a state la, Fatbellybella or Low-down Loretta Brown in the of depression.” All of this human struggle is primarily industry is a multifaceted woman. The singer opted the cause and effects of this capitalistic society in to change the spelling of her name as she believed which we are consumed to, she goes on to say. Her its origins were that of a slave name. A woman of oblique ways of thinkmany talents, an ing about the world are American singer-songjust one of the reasons writer, producer, why she is so loved in activist, doula and the music and fashion actress. The fellow industry. Highly intuiPisces burst on to the tive and with the times, music scene after she she is one of the most opened up a show for compassionate people soul artist and ‘Brown who choose to see Sugar’ singer, D’Anthe good in everyone. gelo in 1994 where Definitely the Pisces in her striking image her! Her vocal musical and vocals caught the influences come from attention of record RnB, soul and jazz and label executive Kedar her first studio album Massenburg who ‘Baduizm,’ an ode quickly signed her to to her eccentric ways Kedar entertainment. With her arrival to the music scene came an arrival of and her need to enlighten was released on February 11th1997 which featured three of her most popular tiers of headwraps and prodigious afros. No matter what head-wrap style she goes for she always pullede songs. ‘On and On,’ ‘Other side of the game’ and ‘Next Lifetime.’ it off, while she stuffd money in it to her wraps to give them extra volume. In this fickle industry Erykah But it was in March of 2010 when the singer bared all and filmed her notorious music video “window seat” is one that is unapologetically herself. An artist in where she stripped off her clothing, piece by piece which marches to the own beat of her drum and in Dallas Texas at the site where former president follows her vision. She is believed to have a way John, F. Kennedy was assassinated. “We gon’ keep with making men fall madly in love with her with marching on, until you hear that freedom song” the consummate ease, her fellow partners include musilyrics from her song ‘Soldier’ fit the prime goal that cians Andre 3000, Common and Jay Electronica. Her charm and authenticity do not go unnoticed within the this video set out to do. Although it did receive a lot fashion industry with many people looking up to her of backlash from critics, she stripped until she was

completely naked outside of the sidewalk where he was shot. A bell rang as the song ended and she fell to the ground. A theatrical performance and an ode to one of her heroes. In all that she does, Erykah is constantly creating content of art that speaks volumes and sends a message, be that through her music, her fashion or her way of life and storytelling. Her purpose is to live your truth. The Texan was a musical soul from early age, by 14 she was already free-styling on local radio stations making a name for herself. A pioneer first and for most, using her intuition at all times and just having fun with fashion is what it’s all about for Mrs Badu. After all, she did turn a table cloth into a head wrap and dress for her music shoot of ‘On & On.’ Clearly no personal stylist is needed, she gets the job done herself. Fashion is very much a form of art to Badu, among many other things. Fashion is art for her because it moves with her and for her, constantly moving with the times and changing as you change. A utilitarian mode of fashion. She doesn’t tend to follow fashion, and that’s what we love about her, a rebel to the norm who just does her own thing with style. Drawing her style inspirations from her mother and Grace Jones, one of the stars fashion icons. Erykah takes inspiration from Grace Jones because she admires her precision, her bold and eccentric ways and her nick for making layers cohesive in a way that moulds into one. Something Erykah has developed meticulously. A tactic in which the star has certainly emulated into her style now and what she is known for. Erykah was inspired by her mother’s going out looks in the 1970s where she would go out with friends with pixie hair-cuts and polyester jumpsuits, heavy eye make-up, chunky belts and big hats. We can now see a reference to Erykahs fascination with over-sized hats, the queen of enormous top hats. Her love for top hats shows when you type her name into Google images and all the pictures that come up she is wearing a top hat. Go big or go home with the top hats when it comes to Badu’s style. Her style and music still continues to inspire us to this day. An icon in both and queen of improv.

Image courtesy of pitchfork.com

Bag Lady

Image courtesy of Vulture

Image courtesy of Essence

Illustration by Luke Attwood

“Good shoes will make or break your whole look” - Luke Attwood

The corset - until death do us part

Image courtesy of MoeJackson

Let’s take a look back at one of the most controversial pieces of apparel in our time that still remains highly popular

Corsetry was responsible for rendering the woman in society during the Victoria era, being constrained everyday by metal bars so much so that it hindered your respiration system is something crucial to note when we associate it with fashion and the fashion industry. It played a starring role in the history of the woman’s body, and it culturally permitted women to fulfil their sexual freedom. The corset was a means of representation during this rivalling era of sexual discourses, it was used to distinguish between masculinity and femininity. Whereas, now it is seen on the catwalk in an ambiguous light, corsets are styled now displaying sexual ambiguity, freedom and gender neutrality with men and women streaming down the catwalks in various modes of the piece.

The corset is a historical symbol that oozes sexuality. It inevitably depicts a feminine nature within which one holds when wearing this controversial piece. There are many psychological theories that exist that prove how we determine our masculine or feminine identities and traits. One of which is known as ‘biological determinism’ which concludes that our feminine or masculine traits and behavior attributes that stem from our physical differences as male and females. Which thereby argue that the historical origins and primal functions of the corset do influence and often operate to construct and police middle-class femininity.

Some say that the corset made a positive impact on the psyche of the woman, the book “Bound to please: A history of the Victorian corset by Leigh Summers, goes on to discuss how corsets did in fact signify female sexuality as neither negligible nor demonic and still to this day enforces to empower the beauty and contour of a woman’s body.

The corset is a traditional symbol of femininity that seems to be constantly transformed on the catwalks each season. Different designers put their own signature touch on this figure-hugging garment that revolutionized the woman. It was very much a lifetime companion for women during the Victorian Era, every single day they were worn, and not a single day was missed. The corset first came into our lives in the 1500s and was introduced by Catherine De Medici in France. De Medici was an Italian noblewoman and humble Queen of France where she reigned from 1547-1559. The corset was traditionally paired by the woman with a chic light-weight blouse with leg-of-mutton sleeves, extremely high-stand collars, fine lace trimming, flared long skirts, a long-handled cane/umbrella and fine leather boots. Now you can see the illuminating icon of the Victorian era on the catwalk paired over chunky oversized knits, with vivid synthetic colours, lots of fetish overtones like rubber and tulle, worn over tailored suits, baggy plain white Tee’s, over lace slips, and with layered mismatched accessories. A romantic escapism take on the severely repressive garment. Beauty really was pain back then, moreover, it was a way of life.

Corsets were like phones today, everyone had them. They were worn by women to showcase their class, wealth and power within society. Corsetry was not only essential in depicting femininity but also to construct a high-class identity. For middle-class working women of this era who couldn’t necessarily afford luxurious corsets, they made their own. A slight link between then and now is that fashion still remains to be about power and wealth, as much as we try to deny it. And for women in the 19th century, this also applied, the woman who attained the tiniest waist was considered royalty-esque and held the card of most feminine and attractive. Constricting shapewear is a relevant thing in fashion with many designers emulating the traditional design. At Paris Fashion week this year, McQueen’s collection was a perfect contrast of the softness of nature from floral printed dresses paired with the harshness of a black leather corset clenched around the waist of a model. Pairing the corset with translucent skirts and embellished tops was an example of the evolution of the corset.

The move from rural to urban life was a pivotal time in history, and so was the restrictiveness of the corset for the woman. The garment was usually worn around the torso of the female body, leashing them in was the pain of whale bone that made up the structure of the corset, with strong laces threaded through metal eyelets which were used to tighten the corset over the torso. I can’t even imagine the pain. The emancipation of the woman in the corset was physically destructive, with many women often dropping like flies due to its critical effects on the body and psyche.

It Is now considered an accessory than that of a way of life. The demand for corsets never stops and the runway proves that. It is truly an item that will never go out of fashion.

The need for the corset to accentuate the female body was an imperative beauty standard of the Victorian era. British sexologist Havelock Ellis announced that the corset has the primal function to “furnish a woman with a method of heightening at once her two-chief secondary sexual characteristics, the bosom above and the hips and buttocks below.” The corset back then was not a fashion statement like what it is used for now, it played a crucial role in constructing and articulating appropriate Victorian femininity. Institutional corsets were also a thing in female inmates of prisons, poorhouses and asylums. The corset was a sense of womanhood back then. For women in this conventional time, corsetry was a way for many to preserve their ‘respectable’ figure. We are still seeing hues of corsets on the catwalks and interpreted differently each time, although the connotations of corsetry remain. Is beauty still worth the pain? 19th century fashion was one which was not as glamorous as it is now, corsetry caused unpleasant symptoms of nausea, constipation, eating disorders and extreme morbid conditions of uterine displacement. Although the corset radically transformed the female body and mind and subjected them to a fixed identity, it is a constant timeless trend and never seems to fade. We see the corset now in a more relaxed, serene approach with its effects on the body minimum to none. It is now worn purely for fashion purposes rather than a routine way of life that it was once denoted to. A regular component when it comes layering garments on top of each other in an effortless way that come together as one.

Image courtesy of rebelsmarket.com

? 44

Instagram VS reality to their phones. Sitting on the tube and complete and utter silence. Rarely a book to be seen or a conversation to be heard. Just a flux of Iphones with hands gripping on to them for dear life. As soon as the doors shut on the tube, if you watch closely it’s truly riveting, people are so afraid to be in the present and to look around. They feel so uncomfortable and awkward just being around people when they are by themselves. So what do they do? You guessed it. They reach in to their pockets and whip out their phones, problem solved in their eyes.

Image courtesy of Underconsideration

We are living in this digital age where virtual reality is seen as more paramount than that of our actual reality and there needs to be a change. We as a race are losing a deep sense of our reality, we are placing so much time and energy in to creating this online fantasy world and persona that could not be further from the truth. A mechanism that we use to fill a void in our lives instead of putting in work to actually make our ideal lifestyle and character come to actual life. We are so immersed in technology and all its counterparts that we have lost a sense of reality, we have come to ignorantly believe that our online persona and life is more important than working on yourself. Just look around you, a sea of zombies looking down onto the screens of their devices instead of into the eyes of people walking by. Reading quotes online instead of actual books and holding our devices instead of hands is making us antisocial. People sacrifice bumping in to people, getting lost, or worst even, nearly getting hit by cars and buses because people are too busy looking in

We are growing up in the false world through Instagram where we have become accustomed to filtering and editing every aspect of our lives to create this perfect illusion. And the realisation that we cannot filter/edit our life in ways has thus encouraged our usage on the app. According to SocialChain.com, Instagram has over 800 million monthly users and over 500 million daily users. With a 900% user increase since February 2016. This visual platform can be used for good like promoting yourself as an artist, your brand, establishing your creative vision or for getting style inspiration on the search engine page. But, like most people know but choose to deny, it has a detrimental effect on our mental health. Too much time spent on social media has a massive effect on your wellbeing, negatively impacting on issues such as anxiety, depression, loneliness, sleep deprivation and FOMO (fear of missing out). Instagram has brought with it its very own mental disorder which has been diagnosed as ‘Selfitis’. The term coined in 2014 is a genuine mental health condition where people have an obsessive need to post selifies. There are three levels of selfitis to determine the severity of your condition. 1: Borderline – If you take at least three photos of yourself in one day but do not post them on social media

2: Acute – If you take at least three photos of yourself in one day and post each one on social media 3: Chronic: An uncontrollable need to take photos of oneself throughout the day, all day, and posting 6 or more pictures on social media in one day The photo-uploading app was designed to promote self-expression, individuality and to create a sense of community, in which it does, but it also has its downsides. The ever-flowing uploads of photos also permeates harmful perceptions of body image and projects false realities into society, these thoughts keep us up all night and completely messes up our energy. We become distracted in our lives and our vision becomes blurred because we are exposed to false perceptions of people we know and people in the public eye. Thereby, we are continuously wasting precious time instead of taking action. We are in a state of mental illness, everyone that we come about in our daily lives is struggling mentally in some way. Life is no easy road and I don’t see Instagram as a tool in hindering this devilish emotion. We as a society have become addicted to this platform, unable to go a day or even an hour without checking our timelines and stories. Posting and sharing what we are doing every second and who we are doing it with. When our phone buzzes with a notification heads turn as quick as lightening, and when we see that there is no message, the feeling of being unwanted and unimportant crosses our minds. How is this healthy? Like Buddha himself said, “The root of all suffering is attachment.” There is no sense of mystery anymore, even if we don’t know someone personally who we follow, we know what they are doing on a Saturday night at 10pm, how sad is that?! The heavily image-based platform increases feelings of inadequacy and Instagram has become so entrenched in

the daily lives of young people now that it has just become a part of everyday life for them. An unhealthy addiction where numbers of followers and likes that ne has deems them as more popular/ liked in society. The first thing before they go to sleep and the first thing they do when they wake up is check their social media. A major distraction and factor in procrastination, so much time is wasted on checking what other people are doing and stalking other people’s pages instead of doing the things you are meant to be doing and creating your dream life. For every hour that you waste on social media you could have completed something from your to-do list today. These social sites are making us inactive instead of proactive, and it is having a negative effect on the psyche of many. Many of the younger generation who are involved or who are seeking to pursue a career in the creative arts use social media, particularly Instagram as a means to promote themselves and their brand. In addition, it is said that creative people are more prone to mental illness. Although anyone can contract this mental health disease there is a higher rate of the illness found among creative individuals. “Neuroscientist and psychologist Dr Nancy Andreasen has studied creative people – writers, artists and more – for several decades. What she’s found is the same every time: a higher rate of mental illness among creative individuals.” – Thedrum. com

continuously on show on these social media platforms. We can’t run from it but we can choose to not look at it. In our industry – this illness is still being remained unspoken about. government data shows that stress-related illnesses including depression cost the UK at least £6.5bn a year, and as Helen Forbes pointed out in her article last week, “it’s something that affects the creative industries far more than others.” – Thedrum.com Don’t let a social media app ruin your chances of success because it consciously and subconsciously installs fear and doubt within you. Having enough will power to remove yourself from over indulgence will make a massive difference. Use it sparingly and most importantly, don’t get caught up in the hype.”

Knowing these facts should raise some questions like, “is my time being spent online benefitting my mental health state or not?” If the answer is no, abort. The effects of the high-pressure environment of the creative industry constantly expecting individuals to use their craft and come up with original content on demand and not in their own time can be very strenuous as it is and takes its toll on the artists creative flow. Logging on to Instagram and comparing the stage you are at in your career with others who you do not know will only add to the stress. This feeling of inadequacy and low selfesteem is primarily gathered from where favouritism and elitism in the industry is

Creative direction- Rebecca Raymond Photography- Shannon Lynch Styling- Rebecca Raymond Model- Emily Goodge

Clubhouse Clothing

Photography and creative direction- Rebecca Raymond

Meet the artists Mechanism meets with group collective Clubhouse Clothing to discuss their creative plans for the future

Welcome! Let’s dive right in, can you both tell us a little something about yourself?

Chris: Ryan helps us out on a Sunday with the selling but he mainly buys all the second-hand bits, we’ve got Ollie who is our photographer, who does a lot of editorial pieces and product shoots.

Layla: I’m Layla-Jayne, 22 years old, I’m a fine art student at CSM, Me and Chris are trying to start up this cool collective.

Layla: We’ve labelled me creative director, I mainly want to be involved in the events and art side of things. We’re going to start doing things in our house I think, doing mini exhibitions where we sell clothes on the side and then we have an exhibition topic and we get young creatives around London involved and put on a show in the house and get music and stuff involved as well.

Chris: I’m Chris, I’m 22, I’m not a student but I buy and sell clothes for a living. What is clubhouse clothing? If you could describe it in your own words Chris: Well for me, it’s an excuse not to work for anyone again, but also give back at the same time. We want to use it as a bit of a platform for students and to help promote their art and get it seen, for young creatives in general around London. We want to take a community vibe to it, so ideally I’d like to be setting up communities all around the world, that’s the dream goal.

Chris: Once we get a stall at the vintage market once a month instead of selling clothes it will just be a gallery with a different artist each month.

Layla: We’re very fresh with what we’re doing but we have an end goal of

Layla: The contacts that we have being young creatives in London, we have all the contacts so you may as well make the most of what you’ve got around you I guess and get their work seen as well.

what made you want to set this up and why as group? Chris: Well, team work makes the dream work!

having our own shop, kind of like a multi-functioning space, so we would be selling clothes among many other things.

Chris: Yeah, I’ve worked in retail for a long time and it’s just a bit shit really, and I don’t feel like it needs to be as bad as it is.

Chris: We would also do workshops

Layla: I want to be able to have this thing that I’m passionate about and don’t have to worry about having a boss and income coming in, when I can be having fun with my friends and creating things and being able to live off that really.

Layla: Putting on events, having gallery days, just stuff like that. Where did you get the inspiration for the name? Chris: I don’t really know, we were just brainstorming one night, we’d gone through a lot of stuff, at the very start it was going to be called Nothing New, but that was just a completely different vibe altogether and we thought it just keeps it too narrow, and we want to broaden it out really.

Chris: I mean my ideal goal as well would be to do schemes where we bring in homeless people off the streets and give them work and supply them with a place to live. Me and Ryan both go out and we buy from a lot of the charity shops and car boot sales.

Layla: We just wanted a fun name, and we’ve written it with our left hand so it’s like kind of free-hand, distorted.

Layla: So initially that’s our way to produce money to begin with, so then we have money to do other things.

So, does everyone have their own specific role or do you work together?

Chris: And as well, the fashion industry is probably the most wasteful industry, so instead of creating new clothes, why don’t we just get our hands on some of the old stuff and just re-work it and switch it up.

Layla: So, there’s Ryan who’s our buyer for the vintage clothes, we don’t have specific roles just yet but we are going to assign them.

How will it differ from other vintage shops and lot of the other brands right now?

Chris: There’s four of us, well potentially 5 or 6

Chris: To be honest I don’t really like the term vintage anyway, because vintage tends to be from the 1920s and below. You do get a lot of the shops around here saying they’re vintage when really it’s just second

Layla: But at the moment it’s mostly four of us.

hand. Ours will be very individual in a sense that there will be a lot of one off pieces , nothing will really be the same. Layla: And where we are sourcing artists like that to create a piece, like our denim jackets that were done by George (@THISONES_ART) that are also pieces of art as well.

Chris: Well people fight, people fight over a place in a line to get something that might run out of stock by the time they get to the shop. Layla: We’ll have a lot more of one-off pieces. Chris: We’re probably going to start doing bomber jackets and stuff like that as well as the denim jackets Layla: bum-bags and tote bags as well.

Do you think people are leaning more towards vintage/charity shops than high-street brands nowadays? Layla: I’d say it definitely is around East London for sure.

One thing you could change about our industry?

Chris: It depends though because they do tend to be two completely different scenes really, you get the guys that wear second hand and they will wear some of the latest streetwear stuff, but they just all like their luxury brands. Supreme, Palace, head to toe in all of these. Ideally, I’d like to make the two merge together properly. All these hypebeast people are cool by default, they are only cool because of the brands that they are wearing, essentially that’s what people see. So why charity clothes/vintage clothing?w

Layla: I’m in my intern year at the moment, and the whole money side of things and I guess the gap from people that are really high up to young creatives is just ridiculous. I’m struggling to find anything that’s paid, or gives back in such that isn’t paid, I’ll do an internship but I won’t actually gain much from being there and doing shitty jobs for them. Chris: it’s not nurturing.

“Team work makes the dream work!”

Layla: I don’t mind doing something for free if it’s worth what I’m doing, so in that sense that’s why we’re doing this too, to get creatives more seen and heard and appreciated and know that you can make a business out of this kind of thing.

Chris: Well clothes are always something that I’ve been in to, I’ve always wanted to be some sort of designer. Layla: I think just having something different to people, especially if you have made it yourself. And if other artists have gotten involved in making it as well, for us it’s the process, and that we’ve got things that other people are going to have. I always have a different image of what I want and I can never find it on the high street or in shops.

Chris: for me, it’s this whole thing of elitism, that’s what really bugs me about this industry. I have a theory that a lot of the uni teachers, definitely with some of them, perhaps stunt their students growth, because they are essentially up and coming competition to these guys that are already in the industry, they could be worried for their jobs or whatever. So, they’ll just try and shut them down before they’ve even rose. And not saying that that is every teacher ever, I’m just saying that some of the people that I’ve spoken to feel this way too.

Chris: And to see people walking down the street in your clothes would be such a good feeling. In your opinion do you think anyone is particularly killing it in fashion right now?

So, with elitism that’s something you want to change?

Chris: Well it depends, because for me I have a serious love/hate relationship with Supreme. Because those guys they know what they’re doing with their marketing strategy, and it is the best. They are the biggest brand on the planet at this moment in time considering they have not really been that famous for very long. But I don’t like the selectiveness, they create a lot of tension which I don’t think is needed.

Chris: well yeah, what’s the point in it anyway? To design for a select few as opposed to everyone. What’s next for clubhouse clothing for 2018? Chris: I’d like to be doing this full-time and not relying on another job. It will cover rent, we will be situated in a lot of different places over London, having 4 or 5 stalls around London, having more regular gallery

Tension in what way?

Of the culture, for the culture days and in semi-fixed positions. And our launch party too. You were saying earlier you want to make it into more of an environment/community? Chris: Oh yeah, so we will do workshops and we’ll teach kids how to screen print. Ollie our photographer was doing this bit called canned goods in the nomadic gardens, so it’s all the graffiti tours and they walk around them. They stroll up at the gardens at the end and what he would do was give the kids spray cans and give them this old skate board to spray and just make their art, so doing stuff like that.

Tell me more about the exhibitions you want to have at your house? Layla: They would all be themed, each exhibition would have a theme, we would select artists and their work that fits in to the theme and we’ll set up around the house. We want to get anyone and everyone that we know that does music in, have a little dj, have some clothes on the side

Do you have social media? Layla: we’ve got two different Instagrams, so there’s lifetstyle, clothing, life.clubhouse and clothing.clubhouse

Has living in London benefitted you in meeting contacts?

Chris: we’ve got a Depop, we’ve got a website which is almost there but that will be clubhousehq.co.uk and we will have an Etsy as well which I think will probably be our main selling point for this. Online is 24/7.

Chris: yes definitely, for instance I’ve met Beyonce’s designer which is weird, yeah on brick lane. I’ve met so many people, I met this one person that was running this magazine, I think it’s called unseen out in China or Hong Kong.

Would you want to eventually make it in to a chain?

Layla: On another note, I think it’s driven me more to want to work for myself rather than working for a corporation.

Chris: not a chain as such but I would like to be global

That’s really cool, any final words?

How would you do this?

Chris: Expect big things!

Chris: That’s the thing we’d have to find like-minded people that like doing what we do, and once we’ve got that set up we can assign people to replicate our concept in their country

Work Space

IAMDDB - You shouldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve kept it G

Image courtesy of Dazeddigital.com

IAMDDB is one of the hottest artists in the UK right now, and we

control of her craft and her creativity and put it in the hands of others who may not share the same vision as her, and we agree. What’s the point? DDB herself describes her music as dreamy, real, eclectic, and hypnotizing. Her vibey hooks and visuals are sure to hypnotize the music fanatic. She is reppin’ Manchester and putting it on the map musically and giving it a platform showcasing all the hidden talent in the city of 0161. Her grounded mentality adds to her whole pleasing aura. There is a lot of talent in Manchester and not many people know about these young creatives who are making big waves, it’s mainly

want you to know a little more about the rising star IAMDDB, the artist from Manchester is gifting us with her unique sounds and style The 21-year-old from Manchester has been producing, making and writing music seriously since 2015. Music was instilled within her from childhood, and she always knew music was her destiny. IAMDDB was constantly surrounded by music, creative people and instruments which helped to shape the artist who she is today. Diana DeBrito, aka IAMDDB. The “I am” part of her artist name meaning “to be” and to be present in the moment. Her sound mixes soul, jazz, RnB and hip-hop and has made serious waves in the past year. If you didn’t hear “shade” last summer, then what were you even doing? It was the summer 2017 anthem and she has continued to bless us with her lyrical mastermind that has resonated with the whole world. She’s doing big things, and her authentic and conversational tone of lyrics show how real and authentic this talented lady is. She is reaching the hearts of many so quickly. Her top 3 projects Waeveyybby volume 1, vibe volume 2, and Hoodrich volume 3 have clearly demonstrated the artists talent when it comes to experimenting with beats, her choice of words, her wardrobe and of course her visuals. Bob Marley is her biggest musical influence and was a big part of her childhood. She ritually listened to his music to help train her ears and to tighten her harmonies. Gaining inspiration from everything around her and the experiences she endures her aim for her music is to bring relief to people, to bring love and fresh vibes all around. Her videos capture real BTS visuals, the art is relatable and that’s why we love her, there’s no fancy diamonds or boujee designer labels, everything is natural. She doesn’t try and show off all this new-found fame, she’s showing that she is like everyone else, but just doing it on a big screen. And, that’s why we rate her so much. One of the many things that we have learned about DDB is that she is truly a girl boss and at such a young age. She does everything her way and on her own terms. With her creative vision and the process, she has full control. She takes full control of her music videos, from picking the locations, to the wardrobe, the props, the planning and the brands used, everything she does at her own pace. “For me, music is my therapy. That’s where I express myself. That’s why I’m so honest with it. I speak about personal issues. I speak about other people’s experiences”

London who gets the spotlight. But, DDB is putting more attention on the northern city, and is a great representation of what it has to offer, and the artists that are grinding and rising. The Mancunian knew what she wanted from day one. Her vocal and production levels of talent alongside her independent mind-set and creative vision will not allow anything to stand in her way. On her first day of uni, she spent an hour there and dropped out. Yes, That quickly. And decided that she needed to make this music thing happen for real. She dropped her first track “leaned out” the same day she quit uni, which now has over 6.8 million views on Youtube. Not bad for a college drop-out. A self-acclaimed introvert, the artist expresses how she is quite internally shy and doesn’t really socialize within the industry, she’s learning to embrace her inner shyness and is evolving into this confident woman that we all see before us. From the hood to riches, literally. It has been such a natural organic hustle for DDB who worked her way up by herself without knowing anyone in the industry who could plant her in. Her project “Hoodrich” depicts her financial struggle and time when she was in a dark place for some time, then she made something out of nothing. Her natural hustle will ensure longevity which is what she is aiming for. From being broke and unemployed, she previously worked at River Island and Selfridges but finnaly found her calling in music. “Keep it G” “Keep it g, yeah” IADDB’S mantra and often the first thing you hear in the intro of all her tracks. Her mantra is clear, no matter what happens she’s always going to keep it g with herself and with others around her. Her circle is small yet efficient with good work ethic. She prides herself on loyalty to the one’s closest to her and would ride or die for her friends. Honestly, what can’t you love about her? One of the closest to her being her boyfriend and fellow artist, Sleazy F. “Sleazy, my boyfriend, he is my world.” Her rock that keeps her sane in this hectic industry The star is a testament that grinding, educating your ears, embracing your own uniqueness and not trying to steal other people’s style is a massive part of the game. Only big things can come from this Mancunian and we are excited to see what is next for IAMDDB.

If there’s one thing you should learn from IAMDDB is her way of thinking and the message she is trying to send to us all through the music. The artist remains unsigned through her own choice. She believes in herself and her art so much that she refuses to give

“It’s mermaid season”

Image courtesy of Dreamstime.com

Imagery courtesy of Wegow

Everything is rosey

Creative direction- Rebecca Raymond Photography- Shannon Lynch Styling- Rebecca Raymond Model- Emily Goodge

Height matters too

Image courtesy of outfit trends

and body shape. Although, one topic which isn’t always at the centre of all the body positivity talk is height. For many women, their height is one of their biggest insecurities.

Being short of course has its perks; always having leg room on a plane, having less leg to shave and being able to wear heels whenever you want. (Also, any potential boyfriend will be taller than you which is a bonus).

The fashion industry has made a meagre attempt at making their models more “real”. At the end of 2017, Missguided were praised by their consumers for using models with visible stretch

However, there is one huge drawback of being a small package of a woman - finding clothes that actually fit you and your body.

marks. Samantha Helligso, head of the Missguided brand said they’re on a mission to show their audience “it’s okay to be yourself, embrace your ‘flaws’, celebrate individuality, and

The preaching of body positivity spread across social media over the past few years has women encouraging each other to embrace their imperfections and spreading the word that beauty does not have to conform to the norms of our society. There is widespread discussion about acne, stretch marks, weight,

not strive for what the world perceives as perfection. Because basically, it doesn’t exist.”

experience for everyone.

More and more brands are embracing plus size models and that’s great, but there are still some women left feeling underrepresented. There is an abundance of plus size body positive advocates on Youtube and social media for women to feel inspired by. However, there is a lack of discussion about the shorties’ exclusion from fashion in the press and on social media. But what about using models under 5”3? Often, even the models from the petite range aren’t even what you would describe as short. Just like the women you see in the ‘plus size’ category is nowhere near plus sized. Petite women are a demographic that retailers tend to ignore consciously or subconsciously.

The alternative, more promising option is to shop online; there’s more of a selection and you just have to cross your fingers and pray that the clothes that arrive will fit the way you imagined. Any small woman knows that even when you find a pair of jeans or trousers that you love, you either have to take a pair of scissors to them or kindly ask your friend, who can sew, to hem them for you. There is clearly a mass outrage towards the fashion industry for not looking after petite women’s needs so there is no knowing when things will start to look up. For now, us mini women will just have to cut our jeans, wear heels and roll up our sleeves and sit tight.

There is a lack of model icons for short women to look up to; although the likes of Kim Kardashian, Anna Kendrick and Nicole Richie are batting for the petite team, their height isn’t a talking point. It may seem like a petty thing to complain about when there are other more important issues within the fashion industry such a racial inequality and unethical production, however, all sizes of women should be better catered for and it’s an issue that needs addressing. The office for national statistics found that the average height of women in the UK is 5ft3. So how come the majority of high street and designer retailers don’t make clothes for women 5ft3 or smaller? Some high street fashion brands do offer what they call a “petite” range. This is usually found in the back corner of the store, with only a small selection of items. Topshop are possibly the only place on the high street that you can find a pair of jeans shorter than a 30L. Even when you do stumble across a rare petite section, finding anything above a size 10 is a mission impossible. High street brands in general fail to make clothes to fit big-busted, curvy women; but for a small woman with boobs and a butt, not happening. Retailers seem to be ignoring the fact that small women don’t have a child’s features - they are still adults. For years, magazines and fashion gurus have expressed to us that short women don’t look good in midi skirts and maxi dresses; small women aren’t encouraged to break the ‘rules’ of fashion and wear whatever they want. If you’re short you’re restricted to your little range of clothes in the corner of a shop when you just want to wear what’s in the regular section. It’s so frustrating when shopping should be a fun and enjoyable

Words by Elana Dickson

What to wear all summer’18

Mechanism has rounded up the top trends that are perfect for your summer wardrobes These dark winter and gloomy days are at long last dismantling and summer glow up season is vast-approaching. Summer 2018 is not so distant and we are so ready. To keep you ahead of the summer trends and to keep you looking extra fly this season, we’ve listed some go-to looks to have at the ready.

just goes with everything. A key piece for summer 2018. Wear it over a tracksuit and some creps for a sporty vibe or over a sequined black dress and heels and it’s got you for your night out. Wear it deconstructed, like Balenciaga’s take on the traditional trench where the back of the jacket splits into a denim over-coat to give it a trippy effect. Clear vinyl trench coats are also a great alternative when opting for this trend if you wish to show off your killer outfit that’s underneath.

so are ideal for the London sun.

Image courtesy of Denim jeans observer

Image courtesy of us.topshop.com

1 The Trench coat – we have seen it everywhere on the runways this year and thankfully they are not going away. This durable piece is ideal for all seasons, in winter opt for a layering technique to keep you warm, and in summer, well it

2 Boxy shorts – Those dusty shorts that remain hidden in your wardrobe until you go on your annual holiday? Yeah, throw them out and get yourself a pair of cool boxy shorts like these. Slouchy and comfortable is the new tight and fitted, statement shorts are back for the warmer weather and they are looking better than ever. In a range of silks, leather, plaid or sequined, these shorts finish at the knee

Image courtesy of Pinterest

3 Hawaiian prints – Hawaii is coming to London. Exotic prints and colours are bringing the sandy beach to London town with glamour. Exotic floral printed co-ords, shirts, bikinis, dresses and blazers. The trend is everywhere. Find it on the catwalk or bag yourself a Hawaiian shirt from a vintage shop and you’re good to go.

Summer vibes

Image courtesy of strutting in style

Image courtesy of StyleWe blog

4 Fringe galore – fringe your way through summer 2018. Statement fringing is a major trend for this season. Fringe is superb for the warmer weather, easy and definitely breezy, just in time for festival season too.

5 Pencil skirts – “Grease” school uniform is the joyous thought we get when we think of the traditional pencil skirt, and there is no better time for them to make a come-back then now. With the revolution of the chunky trainer this year we think that the longer-lined and more flattering take on the pencil skirt with the chunky trainer make a dream combination. Pencil-skirts are going to replace your cargo pants and midi skirts for sure.

Image courtesy of Popsugar

6 80s baby – Beverly Goldberg from e4s “The Goldbergs” gives us all the 80s vibes we need and we secretly love her rainbow coloured sweaters and neon satin bomber jackets. Dramatic proportions for summer, with the return of big shoulder pads and big sleeves, the simple yet affective addition to your summer wardrobe to add some instant glam.

Summer vibes

Image courtesy of InStyle

7- Promises of pastel – Not really a shocker here, pastel always returns when the weather picks up. But, this year new exciting shades of pastel have been added to the colour palette. The yummiest shades of lemon drizzle, peach sorbet and pistachio will have everyone drooling over you this summer. Delicate shades of pink, green, purple, yellow and orange with lilac set to be the most popular colour to be worn this summer.

Image courtesy of Pinterest

Imagery courtesy of Pinterest

8- feathers - Fly away with all the feathers that you about to be wearing. You may call it an ode to an ostrich if you wish. Ostrich feels were scattered all over our ss18 catwalks, feathers were the star of the show. Definitely not a rain-friendly trend but we are hoping for the best this summer.

9- Floral print midi dresses – It wouldn’t be the same if we didn’t see a sea of floral printed dresses streaming down the high-streets. Floral is the fool-proof motif that we see throughout the year and no matter the weather, it assures to add some softness to your wardrobe. A staple to have on hand for the arrival of the warmer months ahead. Wear the subtle trend in the form of a blazer, soft blouses, midi skirt, shorts, or a sheer shirt.

Creative direction- Rebecca Raymond Photography- Shannon Lynch Styling- Rebecca Raymond Model- Emily Goodge

The Japanese influence on fashion

Image courtesy of The Japan Times

Japan and its visual culture has for a long time infiltrated an influence in the western fashion world today through its innovative and creative ideas The cultural phenomenon of modernity in the Japanese experience took off after its Meiji Restoration in 1868. In late Edo Japan, there was intensely high levels of urbanization, trade in consumer goods and literacy as well as a modern fashion system with numerous woodblock prints. This was used in advertising to sell clothing, a vast knowledge of product placement when it came to kimono textiles and consistently changing styles each season in this urban culture. An important era in which Japan became totally submersed and integrated in our fashion global establishment. The significance of sartorial modernity in Japan is imperative to note, for a long time the people of Japan would western dress for public outings but traditional Japanese dress remained the general rule. Some of the biggest designers in our creative industry are Japanese, Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, these are pioneers in leading the everexpanding growth of ambiguous dressing and challenging norms of the routine feminine silhouette, with many designers following in their footsteps. The Japanese are known for their futuristic styles, designs, thinking, and way of life, but this was not all the case until the Meiji Restoration. Pre-restoration saw Japanese fashion conforming to society and its social orders as opposed to challenging them. The fashion was confined to their native style and consisted of silk or cotton loose fitted robes, also known as ‘Kimonos’ with broad belts fitted over the waist, this was all monitored by the state. Fashion was a very classed-based thing, much like today with elitism and the Hype beasts that can afford to purchase every new release the minute it drops. Fashion, dress, and aesthetic were key factors in distinguishing affluence amongst the masses. This was so extreme that even specific kinds of fabric, colours and techniques were assigned and were to only be worn by particular classes. A not so subtle means of demonstrating wealth and personal style. The function of identity in Japan lies deep in the centre of clothing. It’s clear that Japan has a

close knitted relationship when it comes to modernity and futurism, perhaps this is why there is also a sense of restless identity searching in this consumer capitalistic society. Although, their conscious purpose of self-expression and identity-searching has become deep-rooted in the west now too. After arriving in Paris in the late 80s early 90s, the designers and their avant-garde ways proceeded to test conventional ways of fashion, with Yamamoto aspiring to make men’s clothes but for women, Miyake making a whole collection from one piece of cloth, the whole collection was cut from a single roll of fabric. And, Kawakubo

opinion. These designers deliberately implored new ways of thinking amongst consumers and other fashion designers. Together they managed to dismantle standard ‘beauty’ through deliberately destroyed and damaged clothing, lots of black, and asymmetry. Japanese designers have significantly impacted the fashion system by projecting images of hypermodernism. The head-turning and fresh ideas of Kawakubo’s vision soon influenced European designers like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Martin Margiela. Kawakubo was a conceptual designer and artistic mind, she was never afraid to represent the good, the bad and the ugly. For example, her “What is beauty?” spring/summer 1997 collection which was received with enormous controversy. Her collection was an exploration of new body forms and shapes, making clothes that would mould to the bodies ever-changing shape so that they fuse together to become one. McQueen took influence from Kawakubo which was evident in his spring 1997 La Poupee show, which embodied the exploration of the female body through a variety of sourced materials, transparency, and Japanese silk trousers, jackets and dresses.

introduced distorted and unbalanced feminine bodily shapes to the catwalks. The Japanese influence over western Europe’s fashion sense proved to be a fashion social phenomenon all due to phylogenetic causes in which many aspects of Japanese culture, life, style and individual traits was collected and emulated across Western countries. Japans heavy influence over the fashion world began in the 1980s and could be considered that of a revolution with the radically new concepts of these Japanese designers changing the routine ways of the catwalks. Their innovative use of textile technologies and creating a new bond between the body and apparel, introducing new attitudes towards imperfections and creating polarized

Galliano’s 1994 ready-to-wear collection had an oriental offering with influences from the east and western Japan culture with kimonos, lots of black, immaculate tailoring and broad silk belts clenched around the waists of the models. The kimonos featured traditional Japanese motifs such as dragons, flowers and birds. These avant-garde designers attracted international audiences by their deconstructed clothes and its close alliance with art. Their emphasis is to accentuate comfort and freedom through dress rather than follow trends and overt sexiness. They were the first to bring Japanese design influences to the western world.

Image courtesy of freepik.com

Images courtesy of Aysha Tengiz

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Sophie Murphy The Irish designer making big waves

Images courtesy of Sophie Murphy

One to watch: Sophie Murphy

Image courtesy of Sophie Murphy

Mechanism meets Sophie Murphy, an aspiring Irish streetwear designer who never went to an art school but that has not let that stop her in pursuing her fashion dreams

and end all for having a successful career? Personally, I think when it comes to the fashion industry real life experiences are so important, not only studying at university. It is amazing how much you can learn from interning & working with designers. You get to see everything you hear about in university being put into

Q1) Can you tell me a little about yourself, your age, where you are from, what you do etc. I am 21 and from Dublin, Ireland. I am currently in my final year in The Grafton Academy where I am studying Fashion Design.

real life practice. I have interned with Simone Rocha since I first started in university and I honestly think it was the best thing I have ever done. I learnt so much about so many different areas within the company. I got to work backstage at her show at London Fashion Week & work at her Paris Showrooms. Both were the most amazing experiences.

Q2) What inspired you to get into design? I have always had a really big interest in clothes, my love for runners started from quite young and my style was always quite different. At first, I thought I wanted to be a stylist, I went to a university open day with the intention of studying styling but once I saw the sewing room straight away I knew that was where I wanted to be and decided to do the Fashion Design course. It was definitely the best decision ever. Most people would say that they always knew they wanted to work in fashion but I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, I always wanted to be a hairdresser but somewhere along the way my love for sewing took over.

Q6) How would you describe your own style in 3 words? Sporty, colourful & oversized - I think they are the words that would best describe my style right now. I feel like my style kind of changes a little bit every now and then. I get bored so easily and basically hate wearing the same outfit twice so I always try change it around somehow. I rarely ever take runners off my feet, and majority of them will be Nike. I am a true Nike fan from day one.

Q3) Where did you learn to sew?

Q7) What appeals to you about streetwear?

I got my first sewing machine when I was 16 for Christmas and I always played around with it seeing how straight I could sew on scraps of fabric. At the beginning, it was just something I messed around with after school etc. I never thought it would ever go any further. I started buying simplicity patterns & actually making clothes and accessories then. I think the first ever thing I made was a fur leopard print collar. My mam used to work in a sewing factory so it was great to have her there to guide me whenever I needed help. I guess sewing was just something that I grew to really love.

I think the thing that appeals to me mostly about streetwear is that it is just such a cool look. Even though a lot of effort goes into planning the outfits, it looks so effortless and comfortable. I am very into branded streetwear, which is sometimes hard to find for women. Majority of streetwear brands are primarily for men which can be hard with sizing but I enjoy taking these pieces and trying to put a girly twist on them, whether it is pairing a Supreme tee with a skirt or simply just wearing pink. Q8) What is one country or city that has inspired your work in some way and why?

Q4) Which designers do you look up to?

Last Summer I went to Tokyo & Seoul. Together they both inspired me so much. I think I got the most inspiration from Seoul, the majority of things there are pink & green; just like most of my pieces. For example, road signs, buildings, workers vans etc, are all pink & green. It was honestly the coolest place ever. Just the style in general of every single person I saw was amazing. In particular I was really drawn to how cool the elderly dressed. Their outfits were so well thought out & matching. I also noticed how all their trousers were cropped which I am obsessed with. I basically spent my entire holiday slyly taking photos of every cool elderly person I saw. I was always obsessed with the colour pink and Seoul pushed that obsession even further.

Ahhhh there are so many right now. My top three would have to be; Caitlin Price, Christopher Shannon, Martine Rose. I am pretty obsessed with their collections from every season. I feel each of these designers have their own unique look which separates them from other designers which I love. They know their style and stick to it. Q5) What are your thoughts on fashion and art universities? Is it the be all

Image courtesy of Sophie Murphy

I basically design things that I myself would like to wear. Probably not the best idea when I tend to change what I do and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like on a daily basis but it helps me to have confidence in what I design and make. I find it really hard to shop in stores as not many places cater for the style I like so I play off this and see it as my biggest niche.

Q9) Your outfits are always on point on Instagram, down to every last detail, how important is detail to you for your own personal style and designs? Thank you so much! Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s weird like I feel most comfortable when I am wearing an outfit that I have really planned and thought aboutâ&#x20AC;Ś even down to the socks. I myself love a fully matching outfit which shows through in my designs. I think little details are really important to finish an outfit or designs off. Jewellery is always essential; like whether a sovereign ring will suit the outfit or a Yankee sign necklace. I think it is things like this which make an outfit stand out more.

Q11) Who is your target market? I find it so hard to describe my target market, because I am not quite sure who it is just yet. I would like to think it is girls who like myself enjoy dressing in that boyish street style look but at the same time still want to have some femininity in a cool girly way. In university, I always say my target market is

Q10) Where does the inspiration come for your designs?

Sophie Q14) Who, in your opinion, is killing it in fashion right now, be it a specific brand or fashion mogul?

‘the rebellious youth’. A group of people like myself who are not afraid to show who they really are, express themselves through their clothing and just try not care what others think.

I think Vetements are definitely killing it at the moment. The fact that instead of having a runway show for SS18 ready-towear they just photographed people in a town who looked as though they were just going about their normal everyday life but dressed in Vetements. They had teenagers, families, pensioners, an accountant etc. It all just looked so chilled and the location of each individuals photos was great as they included so many little details like road signs and even ATM machines. I am obsessed

Q12) What do you think of Instagram as a platform in terms of promoting yourself and your brand? Instagram for me is the main/only way I promote anything I make. At the beginning, I always just uploaded photos of pieces I had made as part of university projects and it wasn’t until they started getting so much notice that I began to think I could really set up my own brand. It is an amazing way for people in other countries to see your work. I started selling waistcoats through Instagram and have noticed my biggest market for them is in Scandinavian countries which is crazy. One was just worn by Instagrammer Ida Broen at Oslo Fashion Week and that all happened through Instagram. So, I definitely think it is an amazing platform for getting your work out there once you use it the right way. You have to remember you are just trying to get your designs and work out there and still be very humble about it all.

with that season and everything Vetements do in general. Q15) One thing you could change about the fashion industry? I think there should be more opportunities or guidance for young designers leaving college to encourage them to start up their own brands. A lot fall into a whole of interning for a designer and maybe never leaving that internship then. So, there is no time for you to do your own thing and eventually you will feel it’s too late to go back and try start up your own brand. I wish there was one company who would take on young designers, let them continue to work away on collections and try help them promote their brand and get it stocked in stores. It is very hard to get that big break unless you get lucky, especially in Ireland anyway where there are so opportunities in the fashion sector.

Q13) The fashion industry is a very high-pressure and strenuous environment which forces designers to be creative on demand, this has brought with it a dramatic increase in mental illnesses, what are your thoughts on this as a young designer yourself? I do think there is a lot of pressure within the fashion industry. I think people immediately think it is great to be involved in fashion and while it is, it’s also a lot harder than people think. Before you have a finished garment, you have to make a pattern, make several calico’s until it is exactly how you want it to fit, then when you finally begin to make the piece you can run into so many problems whether it be the fabric isn’t cooperating, zip is not sitting right etc. It can be the most frustrating thing at times. I tend to always go with my gut instinct on my designs but other people’s opinions can knock you so easily. It is something you have to dedicate 90% if not 100% of your time to which can be hard when you see friends out living all the time living a fun university life, but I always tell myself the hard work will pay off some day. Trying to top the previous thing you have made is always hard, you want to constantly be upping the game which comes with so much pressure.

Q16) What’s next for Sophie Murphy? This summer I will be finishing up in university which is very scary, but I am excited to have time to work on cool projects which I don’t have time for at the minute with exams. I am currently in the process of getting my own website made where I will be able to sell my pieces and hopefully officially get my brand started. I am also looking into trying to get my brand stocked in a store, preferably somewhere in London. There have been some really cool people, two in particular who got onto me looking for waistcoats so I am excited about those. I guess my main goal this year is to just go for it, sewing and designing is the one thing I genuinely love doing so I just have to give it my everything. My all-time dream is for Rihanna or Rita Ora to wear something I have made. Some day!

Image courtesy of Sophie Murphy

â&#x20AC;&#x153;When it comes to the fashion industry, real life experiences are so important.â&#x20AC;?

Image courtesy of Sophie Murphy

Illustrations by Luke Attwood

Images courtesy of Annie Smith

How to be confident in your own style Artist and body positivty activist Annie Smith shares with us her top tips to embrace your own style

From a very young age, I loved clothes, fashion and dressing up, but I wasn’t bothered about what others were wearing or what high street trends were in. Growing up in a small town in Yorkshire meant that if you weren’t dressed in joni jeans, a white vest top, converse and a pleather jacket, you didn’t really fit in. I had a lot of hand me downs from family members. Amongst the boys’ tracksuits down from my brother, I had earrings from my mum’s collection in the 80’s and my grandma’s vintage scarves, jewellery and the jumpers that she’d knitted herself. My brother described my style as ‘granny’ but I didn’t care to change. Then, like any teenager my style spiralled embarrassingly from one extreme to the next, scene to basic, hippy to retro. But now in my 20s my style has settled somewhere in the middle, with a love for bright colours and bold prints. I love the freedom that clothes can give you to experiment, which is what makes fashion so enjoyable.The Queen of the interchangeable style has to be Rihanna. On a Monday she’s fashioning a tracksuit, by Tuesday she’s in an over-sized threepiece suit and by Thursday she’s in a floor length gown and littered with extra jewellery. Ok well, I can’t promise after reading this you’ll look like Bad Gal Riri, but if you do want to play around with your style, and want to feel confident whilst doing it, here’s 10 small pieces of advice on how to:

1. Follow a couple of people on Instagram who’s style you love, even if it isn’t something you’d want to wear yourself (like Gaga’s meat dress for example)- seeing someone

else’s looks can inspire your own wardrobe creativity. 2. Stop worrying about ‘dressing for your shape’ or ‘dressing for your colouring’. For years I religiously wore what magazines and online websites told me to wear for my curves and what colours I should avoid for my ginger hair, and in turn I hid from gorgeous clothes because I thought only that models wearing it would look good in it. I eventually learnt it’s all a load of trash. Clothes look different on all of us, doesn’t mean we can’t all kill it in our own way! 3. Which brings me to: the beauty of trying things on- don’t say no until you’ve tried it on, and even better to try things on at home, the lighting in clothing stores always makes you feel unattractive, and the time pressure gets you stressed! At home, you can add shoes and accessories to an outfit and help you decide which you should keep, always bulk order with the idea of returning half (or maybe a quarter if we’re being realistic). 4. Try something new. It can be something as small as a colour you wouldn’t usually choose, or it might be trying colour at all (I see you guys there in the monochrome). Maybe it’s trying a new accessory you admire on others e.g. hats. 5. Stop caring about what other people might think. I know it’s much easier said than done, but the

current ‘trends’ don’t matter. If you like them go for it, if you don’t, go for something else. If you live in a city like London, not caring can be easy as everyone looks so different. If like me, you live in a small town, you may get a few stares here and there - but remember, nobody really cares what you’re wearing except you, you’ve probably surprised them with your bright colours or they’re simply admiring your look. 6. Buy cheap clothes. Your style can do a 180 within weeks so why spend a fortune on one look? I’d say quantity over quality but most high street clothes are bad quality whether you’ve paid £5 or £75 anyway. I buy almost all of my clothes from Primark, ASOS or charity shops. Charity Shops are great as you never know what you’re going to find in there and you can be guaranteed nobody else will be wearing whatever you buy. If you’re experimenting, always go for cheap because if you change your mind about it you won’t be too out of pocket. 7. Note that fashion and styles are completely interchangeable, and over the years, fashion trends from different eras have been recycled over and over. You can wear 1920’s one day, 1990s the next and then mix both together the next. When I go for a vintage look I like to go all out, I probably look like a completely different person when I come back to 2018 for the next day. You don’t have to remain a

Image courtesy of Annie Smith

typecast, after all variety is what makes life exciting! 8. Have fun with it! I certainly don’t take clothes too seriously, sometimes I pick out things bright and ugly purely because they make me smile. If you haven’t already, once you try being fully extra for a day, you’ll want to do it again and again just because of how fun it is. Clothes can be you or they can even be an alter ego, life’s too short to wear 100 versions of the same thing. 9. Be confident. Someone once told me ‘You can do anything, as long

as you do it with confidence’, for dressing, this is great advice. It’s easy to feel shy and want to blend in, but I can promise you that you deserve to wear that outfit as much as somebody else does. 10. Last but not least: Dress for you. Always dress for yourself and wear what makes you happy. Take Elizabeth Sweetheart, also known as ‘the green lady’; a woman from Brooklyn who has worn green for the past 20 years because she decided it’s the most positive thing. It also goes without saying that you shouldn’t feel pressured to always

be looking your best. Dressing for yourself can even be wearing your favourite PJs all day or wearing your comfiest jumper. But when you do go all out and serve a look that you love entirely for yourself, you’ll glow and inspire others to dress for themselves too.

Image courtesy of Annie Smith

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Double Denim Ahh denim.. will we ever get sick of you? Probably not. One thing you are guaranteed to find in the wardrobes of everyone, ever, is most likely denim. The most sought-after and democratic piece of clothing known to man. Let’s take it all the way back to 1872. The pivotal time where this staple piece of clothing was thankfully created. Could we ever imagine a life without denim? Levis Straus, the founding father of the jean, the genius who invented this prominent staple piece. The jeans became very influential and noticed during the 20th century, an eventful period for many reasons, the two world wars and the great depression. Jeans were one of the most popular garments chosen as uniform for the American troops by the American federal government. Jeans became really popular among women after the world war and heavily influenced the style of European youths. Jean culture was taking off, and was definitely never going to slow down. Previously worn as working clothes in industrial areas and now an important fashion asset through rapid popularization from numerous celebrities. Every season we see snippets of this durable fabric that ages so gracefully flow down various runways and through all the highstreets. A trend that never dies and has stood the test of time. Denim can now be seen worn in a more unconventional manner. Fashion enthusiasts and many designers have taken it upon themselves to revolutionize the way we now wear denim. A more enigmatic approach, a timeless piece that is having a colossal comeback. There’s always a new invention when it comes to denim and a new way of wearing it that proves to awaken the denim lover that is all beneath us. Distressed denim, D.I.Y, patchwork, embellishment, deconstructed, tie-dye,

textured weaves, topographic, you name it, denim has and can do it. Mechanism spoke to senior fashion assistant of Wonderland magazine, Kamran Rajput to hear his thoughts on the ever-changing silhouette of denim. “Well denim is always on trend if you ask me, who doesn’t wear a pair of jeans or some form of denim? I think it’s just so easy to put on a pair of jeans and there are so many different styles now that it’s so hard to get it wrong. Plus, there are great designers who work amazingly well with denim, most obviously Marques’ Almeida. It’s always so fun to see new things with denim. It’s never going to go out of style, it’s a staple for anyone’s wardrobe really.” One of the most versatile and practical fabrics, there’s no wonder why it’s extended stay and has never been denied. Denim could be considered as a true symbol of egalitarianism for all as it embodies and reminds us of the freedom in the western society now. Jeans have the capacity to tell a story, for many of us our oversized jean jackets have been passed down from generations and generations, and were once our grandmothers go-to dancing jacket in the 80s. A garment that you can mold and customize to fit your own personality and character. Mechanism spoke to Leoni Blue, photographer from popular independent magazine “Noctis.” “I love what Mary Benson has been doing with denim, it’s about expression and personality with London based designers. The use of patch work and colourful badges is everything London is about and something I adore. Also, I love her use of hand writing script over the denim dress of her SS16 collection. I’m also into her cuts, and the shape of her garments. Then on the other hand I love how CK jeans have come back, giving their iconic brand a new audience and advertising still with a 90s nod with youths

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hanging out wearing denim, almost a Harmony Korine party feel.” Many designers are changing the traditional denim in substantial ways. Take previous Net-A-Porter buyer Katie Green, she launched her all-denim clothing line called Kéji. Green wanted to adverse the standard skinny jean and take it back to its 1800s heritage, looking at industrial times, work wear, American sports-wear and traditional uniforms. She also extracted some of her inspiration from the sharp lines from Japanese woodblock prints. Her fall/ winter 2015 debut collection launched at London Fashion Week in February and her collection showcased the craftsmanship of every jean lover’s dream. The official queen of heavyweight Japanese denim. Her collection depicted denim as one’s own life companion, a fabric that becomes frayed and ages with you. The denim collection features varieties of a-lined dresses and sleeveless tops, round-shoulder jackets, hand-frayed denim jackets, boyfriend jeans and collarless oversized jean jackets. Faustine Steinmetz, a former Central Saint Martin’s student and French designer living in London, is a rebel to fast-fashion through her design techniques and artisan craftsmanship. She eloquently uses her artisanal skills to produce mass-produced pieces. Doing everything from hand, it’s in her East London studio where the magic happens. It’s in this sacred place where she hand-dyes yarns, and weaves using traditional Japanese pleating techniques. This season at her Salvador Dali-Inspired LFW presentation, she unleashed a collection of denim, never before seen in this light to the naked eye. Her collection features tassels of denim hanging from a meticulously structured jacket, slouchy jackets hanging off one shoulder, acid wash and frayed sleeves. Matthew Adams Dolan also did his own renovation on the classic denim for his

Dress me in denim

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SS/16 collection. A unisex collection of denim with myriad options available for men and women thereby expanding his ready-to-wear offering. A collection inspired by his upbringing in suburban Australia where Jeans were the base and staple of every outfit worn. His collection showed us his oversize denim obsession. A trend that has evolved and grown with the times, from workwear to high fashion. Denim is a testament that people really do love nostalgic fashion. The embellished denim, over-sized, the frayed everything, tie-dye, logos, solid colours, you could go on forever.

Denim will never go out of fashion, an all-rounder when it comes to ticking all the boxes. Dress up or dress down, wear it however you want, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no rules when it comes to denim.

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Lil Kim - The real MC of fashion

revolutionary, its staying power proves this and its timeless quality shows that it still has a massive relevance and impact today. If the album was dropped today it would still correlate with the times and constant political debates in our culture. Some find her lyrics controversial and vulgar while much of the demographic find them sexually and spiritually liberating. Many classify the rapper as someone striving for equality in all its forms, from the studio to the intimacy of the bedroom. Lil’ Kim remains a global fashion icon and trendsetter, even to this day her looks are constantly being recycled, artist after artist, runway after runway. Many artists whether they know it or not have been inspired by her looks, Cardi B, SteffLon Don, Nicki Minaj are just to name a few.

Brooklyn born Kimberly Denise Jones, AKA Lil’ Kim changed the fashion game forever The American rapper, producer, model, actress and songwriter broke into the music scene in 1995 at just 20 years old, and little did we know how much of an impact her presence would ultimately change fashion culture. In a time where women were constricted by conservative values and the rap scene was predominantly run by male dominance, Kim’s unapologetically overt sense of style and sexuality made her a force to be reckoned with. She was more than just a female rapper, she was a voice for women who felt they couldn’t or didn’t have the means to express themselves musically and stylistically. An icon in her own right, she was the first black woman to cover Nylon magazine. It was a pivotal time in the music industry, Lil’ Kim entered unchartered territory where everyone around her was male but she did not let gender get in the way of her rising to the top. Her feminist ways were evident in her third mixtape “Hard core” which was released on November 12th 1996 by Undeas recordings, Big Beat records and Atlantic records in which was nominated at the Soul Train awards for best female R&B/Soul album. She also received a Grammy award for it and had three consecutive number ones on the Billboards. Although, the album received a lot of backlash with multiple radio stations refraining from advertising it, numerous political campaigns were held against the studio album it due to hip-hop sexist hating in the album. When in reality, Lil’ Kim was just speaking the truth, and nobody wants to hear the truth. She became a spitting supernova and the radio and music game just wasn’t ready for what this young female rapper had to say about feminist issues in the industry. The album is

Many female musicians in the game have been inspired by the rappers raunchy and mostly see-through looks. Everyone from Rihanna, Nicki Minaj, Lady Gaga to the Kardashian/ Jenner clan have taken a dose of inspiration from the stars provocative persona. One of the many moments when her fashion choices hit the headlines across the world was in 1999 where she debuted her mermaid-esque/ disco look with clamshell pasties at the Video Music Awards. Pasties were mostly associated with burlesque clubs but Kim made it cool prompting one of the purple bedazzled clamshell pasties on her shoulder. One of Kim’s most memorable looks. Pasties are now a mainstream staple in the wardrobes of many from models like Kendall Jenner to runway shows of Saint Laurent. Pop culture has never quite seen someone like the 90s Lil’ Kim and her fashion choices. Much of which are emulated and manipulated today through vintage clothing and second-hand designer bags. Kim didn’t have a ‘signature look’ so she was never boring, she always rocked up in something unexpected or unheard of with thanks to her creative strategies and her on-point long-time stylist Misa Hylton, a dream team. Whether It was her album covers, music videos, magazine covers, red-carpet appearances or at music award ceremonies, her indulgence for bold coloured fur, sequins, sheer dresses and an endless array of rainbow coloured wacky wigs, she never failed to disappoint. On P Diddy’s ‘No Way Out’ tour the rapper pulled off a neon lime green cropped fur coat, a mesh body suit, lime green bikini and a blonde bombshell wig. This iconic look inspired Beyonce to channel her inner Kim by dressing up as some of her most popular ensembles for Halloween. Fast- forward to today and Lil’ Kim’s 90s style looks are still being seen on our catwalks and in editorial shoots. One of Kim’s looks featured dramatically embellished denim with intricate detailing which can be seen on the catwalks of Gucci and all of the high-street brands. References to Lil Kim’s musical style and fashion style can be seen in the work of

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Iconic rapper Nicki Minaj. The younger generation still resonate with Kim’s style with many of them dressing like her and has made women want to experiment with crazy coloured wigs. Doses of Lil Kim are seen everywhere today, with many women mixing vintage Chanel bags with cropped coloured fur coats and joggers, but putting a modern-day twist on it. Fashion has never immune itself to the ways in which her long-time stylist Misa Hylton meticulously ‘un-dressed’ Lil Kim to convert her in to the provocateur that she is, where she loudly embraces her overt femininity and sexuality. With some of Kim’s extravagant looks considered fashion faux-pas back then, they have been recognized as a pop-culture movement. Kim has impacted fellow women in the music industry and in the audience through her lavish style and explicit lyrics. She never conformed to the norm lyrically nor through her style and stuck two fingers up to normality. She was the only female rapper in the hip hop group Junior M.A.F.I.A and used fashion to steal the show, a wise choice. She wanted to stand out in this homogenized world and industry and numerous designers such as Marc Jacobs, Donatella Versace, and Giorgio Armani all clamoured to dress her in their latest designs. Her message is clear through her infamous music and fashion taste, do you. Don’t be afraid to stand out. Embrace your femininity in all its forms and most importantly, have fun with fashion – because fashion is fun! For that, we pay homage to the original Queen B and fashion provocateur. Thanks Lil’ Kim!!

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Trust the process

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Creative direction- Rebecca Raymond Photography- Shannon Lynch Styling- Rebecca Raymond Model- Emily Goodge

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Everything is a blur lately

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The resurrection of the bum bag The traditional ‘dad bag’ has been given a designer makeover

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The re-emergence of this infamous statement piece has had many among the fashion industry gritting their teeth with disapproval. No one can predict what is going to be in fashion one day and what’s out the next. Like model and host of her show ‘project runway,’ Heidi Klum said herself, “One day you’re in, and the next you’re out.” The bum bag is probably the least glamorous bag of all bag kind but it’s function of practicality thankfully balances out this well-known fact. The European medieval pouch is an accessory seemingly forever doomed by its association with lost-looking tourists and unfashionable middle-aged dads. Their appeal lies in that it’s a hands-free bag, although it’s quite small, it’s made for you to fit in essentials for your day. Offering a sense of security too. The 90s trend with this satchel-belt has been around for a while with numerous variations of the younger generation sporting this controversial accessory, styling it up and down. We are also seeing the bag on the catwalks of London fashion week this month, it has finally been upgraded and a luxurious highend take has been given to it. Gucci made it glam. The bag is certainly a great accessory for those who are not

too fond of carrying around a whole lot of junk in an oversized tote bag and contracting a bad shoulder cramp from the sheer weight of it. There are definitely polarized opinions when it comes to this bag but it does offer great convenience and practicality in the hustle and bustle that we live in. It’s a staple piece in the wardrobes of the youth culture today who are in to that sports-luxe vibe that we see everywhere. The perfectly sized and shaped bag that you can wear to festivals and when going on your travels. They made a surprising come-back on the catwalks of many spring/summer 2017 collections with an array of designers incorporating the aesthetic into their collections. The street style essential has become the go-to piece for many and one of the most sought-after items this summer. A piece that was beginning to peak in the late 80s to 90s, and now they are a part of our culture and music culture, worn by some of the most influential rappers at the moment like Skepta and A$AP Rocky. The bum bag has been seen on numerous celebrities from SJP and Kendall Jenner to Fergie and Chance the rapper. Gucci gave it a touch of glamour, the street-style bag was bril-

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liantly paired with eloquent embellished gowns, which sounds bizarre, but it worked. Instead of traditionally being worn clenched around the waist, at some of the shows this season, for example House of Holland’s SS18, it was being worn slanted across the chest, giving it a more edgy and relaxed look. The designers have taken this now street style daily essential and made it more deluxe. Designers and the couture houses are clearly observing what is going on around them and what everyday people are wearing in their daily lives. Another take to this accessory is not so glamorous, rather that of a practical joke, well we hope. This unusual take on the ‘dad bag’ actually gives you the perception of a real dad bod, including belly hair, a flabby stomach and even a belly button! London-based designer Albert Pukies created this comical take

on the dad bag to mimic that of a stereotypical dad physique and it freaked people out. This hyper-realistic design of the bum-bag looks exactly like the cuddly male body. Now anyone who wants this fatherly frame that seems to be quite on trend can get it with a simple fasten of the buckle, an impressive alternative. The bag is so realistic, it gives the illusion of a significant girth around the waist. The designer set out to make this bizarre design as he himself has always wanted the standard ‘dad bod’ but could never follow through with fears of health risks associated. So, the bum bag will have to do. The revival of the bum bag comeback has been a successful one and we look forward to seeing different ways people will wear it this coming summer.

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spring/summer 2018

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