Project Rationale & Proposal Rebecca Robyn Spence 0804811
Throughout my research I have been heavily inspired by the movement of ‘Make do and Mend’ from World War II and the concept of DIY. Through my journey of research I have noticed a recurring theme; consumers are seeking authenticity and desire products that are home-made, rejecting the movement of fast fashion and reverting to DIY as a result of overconsumption. Due to the economic recession, consumers are cutting back on their disposable income, from this I have recognised crafting and DIY in home-ware and fashion are becoming an increasingly popular trend.
Research & Experimentation
result of the recession, my research has
Initial research stemmed from an interest in
reverting to DIY as a result, saving money
interior design, restoration and interior styling, where experimentation was carried out during a work placement at Dobson and Vivian; a London based interior design and architects. During my placement I was able to foresee projects in refurbishment and contribute ideas in interior design; putting together inspiration boards for clients with a selection of samples and styling interiors to be photographed for the company’s portfolio. The Dobson and Vivian customer is likely to have a large disposable income, not feeling the squeeze of the current economic climate, enabling them to hire someone to execute ideas to redecorate their home. Focussing on consumers in the middle squeeze, with less disposable income as a
come to the conclusion that consumers are by recycling, restoring and making my hand. My researched explored the increasingly popular trend of crafting; a recent demand to be educated in traditional knitting and sewing skills, resulting in sewing cafes and workshops opening up to educate and share skills in the art of making. From research it is clear that from mass production and consumption, consumers are seeking authenticity and one of a kind pieces, giving rise to consumers involving themselves within craft, embracing DIY and reverting back to the ‘Make do and Mend’ movement from World War II; where people were required to recycle old and worn clothes and to make do with what they had; re-invigorating old clothes by darning and fixing frayed edges, unpicking the wool from old pullovers to darn socks
and altering the cut of a coat or a dress to
“I want to spread the sewing word,
around the country and online, either via
give it a new lease of life. (Wilson, 2009)
make sure that it doesn’t die with our
Etsy; a website for independent business’s to
grandmothers”.
sell their products, or via the companies
Lisa stated that she thinks it’s important to
own website. The CutOutGirls are a small
carry on traditions and having such skills are
independently run business who create
essential. Her workshops explore a variety
individually hand-made textile products
of crafts, from basic sewing skills to survival
using natural and unique materials,
sewing for men, from dress making to
combined with back to basic, traditional
curtain making. Sew Over It is one of many
methods. In an interview with the two
From the development of fast fashion,
places running workshops to educate people
curators, they explained that they are
consumers have been buying into cheap
in craft, communities across the UK are
“keen to provide affordable goods with
commodities that are made quickly, in bad
bringing people together in the art of craft,
unique style, making it possible for
conditions. Sew Over It is a sewing café
reverting to traditional methods whilst
everyone to own a one off piece made
that opened early last year in South London.
encouraging convivial behaviour.
with CutOutGirl love”.
“Consumers are mending and making do with old clothes: sales of sewing machines have risen 289% in 12 months according to Woolworths.” 2010 (Reyner and Ekwe-Bell, the New
Sobriety)
In an interview with founder Lisa Comfort, she explained that the desire for crafting, up-cycling old unwanted clothes and learning traditional sewing skills were at great demand. Lisa runs workshops to educate and pass on such skills.
As well as investigating companies who educate and share skills, I have explored independent companies whose aesthetic heavily focusses on selling home-made, home-grown and sustainable products. These independent companies are commonly known to sell at craft markets
Understanding that consumers are rejecting fast fashion and that authenticity is desired, the CutOutGirls produce products that are both one of a kind and inexpensive. Inspired by the movement of ‘Make do and Mend’, they upcycle and re-use reclaimed materials where possible, for example the
leather straps used on their bags are sourced
many have turned to DIY blogs and
Following a talk from the Future
from charity shops.
websites for tutorials on recreating
Laboratory, I expanded my research into
designer-style runway fashion for a
experiential consumption and space,
fraction of the price.” Christy Wu and
focusing on brands who interact with their
Laura-Jane Preston, WGSN (Wu and
consumers to deliver a bespoke,
Preston, 2011)
personalised service. Luxury brands Hermes
Questionnaires have been conducted as secondary research which demonstrate that crafting is an increasingly popular trend with the younger generation; aging between 18-35. Many people are indulging
A report by WGSN explores the trend of
in craft as a hobby, producing hand-made
crafting from the younger consumer,
creations for the home, as gifts and seasonal
embracing a DIY approach to fashion, re-
decoration. My results show that craft
creating the latest trends on the catwalk on a
workshops are something that creatives
budget.
would like to get more involved in if became more available, a chance to bring people together to educate and share skills in a convivial environment.
Focussing on the middle squeeze with consumers who have less disposable income, I want to focus my concept on a market that are looking for ways to create
“The lack of discretionary spending due
on a budget, encouraging consumers to re-
to the economic recession had driven
use, make do and mend and do it yourself,
the youth consumer to find alternative
with a promotion of sustainability,
means of attending expensive trend-
supporting an environmentally-friendly
driven items. As a creative solution,
way of living.
and Gucci have both exhibited their heritage and focus on traditional craftsmanship and production, giving consumers an insight into how their leather goods are made. This aims to encourage more appreciation for the bespoke and meticulous production of their products. “This is all about hard work and the greatest attention to detail. It is wonderful to see this kind of craftsmanship in today’s world, which moves so fast and is so mechanical. It is refreshing to know that there are still so many things still made by hand.”
Robert Chavez, Hermes president. (Payne,
brands to self-create and self-express
Associations and charities including the
2011)
(Reyner and Ekwe-Bell, The New
RSA, the Hand Knitting Association and
Sobriety)
the Women’s Institute are encouraging
From this, I furthered my researched into different examples of exclusive style
LNCC understands the importance of mass
shopping, exploring LNCC; a store
individualism, which they believe is
combining the roots of traditional retail,
supported by integrating with its local
twinned with the progressive nature of the
community of East London, working with
online boom. The East London store is
local artists and creatives to encourage a
appointment only, enabling an exclusive
convivial atmosphere. In addition, Laura
consumer experience.
Vent runs the Sassoon Gallery; an art space
“Brick-and-motor retailers are challenging the immediacy and increased personalisation of the online offer, with a new battery of techniques designed to put theatre back into retail.” James Wallman, Future Laboratory. (Wallman, 2011) Brands are understanding that a shift is occurring in retail, the power is reversing back to the individual, who is going to use
in East London which brings together local up and coming artists and creatives to give them a platform in which they can exhibit their work. The key focus on community encourages a convivial environment, supporting local talent. It is becoming clear
people to come together in the art of craft; The Hand Knitting Association are currently running a campaign to encourage education in traditional skills for the younger generation with their ‘Knit one, pass it on’ campaign. As well as bringing people together to educate in traditional methods, these skills are also being used as a form of therapy and encourage a better way of life. The ‘Knit one, pass it on’ campaign has proven to give a sense of achievement, boosting coordination, improving dexterity, maths and handwriting.
that consumers are supporting their local
Knitting has proven a form of therapy with
communities as well as local independent
all generations. The Knitting Circle by Ann
companies as a rejection from mass
Hood explores how the art of knitting can
consumption.
help relax and focus your mind; helping get through tough times, doing something with
your hands, making something beautiful and being able to focus your mind.
‘They say to some women, religious women, each stitch is like a prayer’ The Knitting Circle, Ann Hood. (Hood, 2007) Such crafts have also proven a popular trend with men, according to the Hand Knitting Association, 448,000 men in the UK currently have an interest in knitting/sewing. This opens up the target market for my concept, focussing on men and women of all generations in the middle squeeze who want to create on a budget and support a sustainable environment.
Concept Proposal
ViewPoint (Land and Goldsworthy, 2010);
From my extensive research, I propose to
lifespan from beginning to end.
create an interior ‘how to’ magazine that aims to inspire and educate people who are redecorating their homes and making improvements on a budget, due to their less disposable income as an effect of the recession. According to ViewPoint, ‘Britain
principles which consider a product’s
“It’s become a way of life and people have to be aware of their spending. Instead of saying ‘do I want to buy this? they think, ‘can I make this?” Erica Domesek, PS-I made this. (Wu and
is a throwaway society’ (Reyner and Ekwe-
Preston, 2011)
Bell, The New Sobriety). My concept aims
The concept will stand on the shelf next to
to inspire DIY solutions and hacker cultures, the magazine will educate how to make the most of what people have by restoring and reverting back to traditional methods including the ‘Make do and Mend’ movement by rediscovering traditional crafts; reusing, upcycling, modifying and customising for unique and authentic pieces whilst encouraging a sustainable way of living. My concept will embrace the ‘Cradle-to-Cradle’ trend outlined by
its competitors; Ideal Home, World of Interiors and Elle Decoration, but instead of inspiring people with beautiful designer homes, this magazine will focus on making your home beautiful by either buying products that are inexpensive or by making them yourself, with how to directions and guidance. “Creating something oneself or upcycling something imparts more value
to it than a quick, mindless purchase at a mass retailer.” Carly Cais, Chic Steals.
(Wu and Preston, 2011) The execution of this concept will educate consumers in traditional methods and give realistic guidance for creating and redecorating. Targeting consumers feeling the effects of the middle squeeze economy, regarding the ‘Just Not’s Generation’, a consumer demographic that has been highlighted by the Future Laboratory; struggling in the midst of the recession and looking for ways to improve their way of living with an understanding of sustainability and the economic climate.
Bibliography
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