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Preservation of Culture Handicrafts of Himachal Pradesh
rebecca singh module 6 UGCD section[D] communication Design (Foundation Design ) cohort : 2015
letter of aknowledgement I have taken efforts in this project. However, it would not have been possible without the kind support and help of many individuals and organizations. I would like to extend my sincere thanks to all of them. I am highly indebted to our mentors for their guidance and constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding the project & also for their support in completing the project. I would like to express my gratitude towards my parents & member of Pearl Academy for their kind co-operation and encouragement which help me in completion of this project. I would like to express my special gratitude and thanks to industry persons for giving me such attention and time. My thanks and appreciations also go to my colleague in developing the project and people who have willingly helped me out with their abilities.
Table of Contents aknowledgments aim
research •content •analysis design direction /solution references
intro
introduction inspiration Himachal Pradesh is famous for its abundant nat H Himachal Pradesh is famous for its abundant nat imachal Pradesh is famous for its abundant nand natural beauty. After the war between Nepal and Britain, also known as the Anglo-Gorkha War (1814–1816), the British colonial government came into power. In 1950 Himachal was declared a union territory, but after the State of Himachal Pradesh Act 1971, Himachal emerged as the 18th state of the Republic of India. Hima means snow in Sanskrit, and the literal meaning of the state's name is In the lap of Himalayas. It was named by Acharya Diwakar Datt Sharma, one of the great Sanskrit scholars of Himachal Pradesh.
The economy of Himachal Pradesh is
currently the third fastest growing economy in India.Himachal Pradesh has been ranked fourth in the list of the highest per capita incomes of Indian states. This has made Himachal Pradesh one of the most wealthiest places in entire South Asia.
Aim To promote the varoius and traditional handicrafts and artworks of the beautiful land of himachal pradesh ,as the contemprorary era has witnessed a decrease in the number of pahari artisans leading to dying culture of the skilled pahari people of himachal pradesh
Price: $995 Designer: D. White Color: Purple Size: 10m x 10m
Deliverable Promoting the handicrafts of the pahari artisans known as the locals of Himachal and thier tradional artworks broght down by thier ancestors . promoting tourists to invest in the handicrafts that will in turn help the artisans revive thier dying/ fading culture .
Inspiration
Research
H
imachal Pradesh is one of the best destinations for tourists. Covered by the beautiful peaks of western Himalayas, Himachal is gem of north India. There are very few other states in the country that could match the unbelievable beauty and diversity of Himachal Pradesh. This is the place, which you will like to visit again and again. Like the beauty of the state, the variety of handicrafts produced by the state is also laudable. People of Himachal Pradesh over the years have developed rich traditions of handicrafts, which are creative and distinctive. Himachal has a rich heritage of handicrafts. These include woolen and pashmina shawls, carpets, silver and metal ware, embroidered chappals, grass shoes, Kangra and Gompa style paintings, wood work, horse-hair bangles, wooden and metal utensils and various other house hold items. These aesthetic and tasteful handicrafts declined under competition from machine made goods and also because of lack of marketing facilities. But now the demand for handicrafts has increased within and outside the country.
The state is well known for its handicrafts. The carpets, leather works, shawls, metalware, woodwork and paintings are worth appreciating. Pashmina shawls are a product that is highly in demand in Himachal and all over the country. Himachali caps are famous art work of the people. Extreme cold winters of Himachal necessitated wool weaving. Nearly every household in Himachal owns a pit-loom. Wool is considered as pure and is used as a ritual cloth. The well-known woven object is the shawl, ranging from fine pashmina to the coarse desar. Kullu is famous for its shawls with striking patterns and vibrant colours. Kangra and Dharamshala are famous for Kangra miniature paintings. The various kinds of handicrafts available in Himachal Pradesh include woodwork, leather embroidery, metal wares, carpets, painting and woolen textiles. The range of handicrafts found in Himachal is unique to the state. The crafts of this state are vast and portray the artistic skill of the craftsmen.
•Different categories of Himachal Pradesh handicrafts Wood Carving Painting Thangkas Rugs & Carpets Garments & Accessories Embroidery Shawls Leather Craft Jewellery Metalwork Stonework
Earlier this craft Being rich in forests, wood is abundant in Himachal Pradesh and so woodcarving is still a living tradition of the state. Earlier this craft was mostly used in building temples and palaces. However, at present artisans creates intricate designs used in building houses, and also for making other things like low benches, spinning wheels, smoking pipe, cradles, low settees, boxes, serving spoon, rolling pins, wooden utensils, and much more. Moreover, other interesting things like fruit bowls, beer mugs, wooden jewellery, decorative boxes and carved images can also be found carved out of wood. was mostly used in building temples and palaces. However, Woodcraft is the primitive art of Kullu. The exquisite temples , rural houses and castles display highly perfect carved images of gods and goddesses, episodes from epics and local flora- fauna. The craft thrives in two forms: the first one is highly classical, and the second one is the rural tradition of aborigines. Woodcraft is an antique art, traditionally valued. The woodcarvings in temples have excellent classical perfection. Manali and Prashar are full of beautiful temples carved out of wood. The eminent German scholar Hermann Goetz has described these temples in his book on the early temples of Chamba, as outstandingly stunning works of fine art. In Malana village a pillar portrays a typical carving of human figures in the act of lovemaking. Tripura Sundri Temple at Naggar , Hadimba Temple at Manali , Prashar Rishi Temple at Kamand and Adi Brahma Temple at Khokhan are some fine examples of woodcarvings. They portray episodes from the epics and images of various Indian gods as Ganesha, Shiva, Vishnu, Narsingha, and others. Old houses, especially of the prosperous ones display intricate wooden carvings at the entrance, edges of the roofs, rooftops, verandahs and pillars. These are found in evidence throughout Kullu Valley. Often the doorway has a carved statue of Lord Ganesha adorning it, flanked on either side by animal and bird figures. Carvings upon the pillars usually depict flowering vines, kings setting out on expeditions and families deities. The rural traditional craft of woodcarving is of less technical perfection but alive with the rural spirit. It primarily depicts local flora and fauna. People decorate their exteriors and interiors mainly with these carvings. These days, carvings are also done for interior decoration of the houses. The contemporary woodcraft exhibits the sophistication of the old carvings. The mesmerizing articles of woodcraft are made on both tender and legendary basis. Besides carvings, some other forms of woodcraft are also thriving in the valley. The carpenters produce good quality furniture. They make all kinds of chairs, tables, couches etc. The main furniture shops are in Kullu town and Mohal.
Thangka paintings mandala paintings
Wood Carvings
Himachal Pradesh is also rich in
traditional
paintings. You can see the miniature paintings
in art galleries and museums in Himachal, but the true picture of the traditional paintings can be seen in most village houses. The women of the house paint their floors and walls. Moreover, they draw illustrative designs called yantras on the doorstep on ceremonial occasions. The floors are decorated with a white paste made of rice, whereas the walls are painted with colors, which they collect from daily used things such as turmeric powder, red clay, kumkum (a liquid used for make up) and so on. Thangkas are brightly coloured cloth paintings, which are mostly used as ritual paintings exhibited during some Buddhist festivals. International tourists love these paintings. They generally depict lord Buddha and other deities as well as the wheel of life. Paintings : The Kangra and Chamba Schools of Miniature Paintings is a famous Handicraft of Himachal Pradesh. they evolved in the small states of Nurpur, Kangra, Kullu, Chamba and Sujanpurtira around 18th century AD. These paintings generally known for portrayal of court and romantic scenes. The Gompa School, Buddhist in origin, is the third school of painting in Himachal Pradesh. kangrastyle-painting
kangra-style-painting The Kangra Style of Paintings These paintings are huge and horizontal paintings delineating the tales related to Shri Krishna. These paintings present wide scenarios that contain towns as well as various people and figures. The colors used in these paintings have very nice lustre. However, a very different thing in these paintings is that these paintings, in spite of being hill paintings do not showcase the pictures of hills.
Himachal’s rich artistic heritage can be experienced in the museums and art galleries. Besides, the females in Himachal have preserved their heritage by magnificently drawing art and illustrative designs. Made on special occasions, these designs are also called as yantras. Certain towns exhibit the canvas inheritance of Himachal Pradesh through the splendidly dazzling wall paintings. Usually used in the accommodation of honeymoon couples which are specifically organized for them. These are called ‘torana griha’. Depicting the spirit of togetherness after the bond of marriage, these Painting are exceptional in their design To do it the traditional way; for painting a Thangka, an auspicious date is defined and then incense is lit and doctrines are recited to create the holy atmosphere. It was supposed to be a master’s work assisted by his disciples. Great attention is paid on the details and as such most perfect one take a lot of time and are as such quite costly. Today, for the tourists, woodblocks of the basic design are inked on and transferred on to cloth. But the true meaning of Thangka and
The most basic forms of the painting can be on a piece of cloth which may be rolled away. Thangka is mostly done on cotton on linen and rarely on materials like silk. The subject matter of the paintings are mostly the life of Buddha, the scenes of the ‘Jataka Tales’; the artists also show the scenes from the lives ofDhyanibuddha, Amitabha, the Bodhisattvas, and female deities like Tara. The saints; the sixteen arhats who are said to have attained Nirvana and who preach the teaching of Buddha to mankind are another major subject of the Thangka depictions. the Thangka is basically a Tibetan style of painting that patronizes Buddha and his principles. The style of painting first appeared in Tibet in 7th and 8th century and has since then undergone changes in every region it has travelled to. The images migrated and soon started appearing in the monasteries of Himachal. The founding of many new monasteries in 1960 and the visit of his holiness Dalai Lama opened up the centres of for development of Thangka in and around Himachal; places like Tashijong, McLeodganj, Bir, Shimla and Manali
Rugs, Carpets are significant part of furnishing in Himachal Pradesh. Available in brilliant colors and traditional motifs these items look amazingly beautiful in appearance. Moreover, Blankets made with wool weaved out of sheep and goats are also available in plenty.
Rugs and Carpets with Tradional prints
jewellery
Jewelry The jewelry of the Himachal is made of metal and beads. Jewelry items such as necklaces, amulets, pendants, rings, etc. are made by the tribal people. Apart from this, jewelry in silver and gold can also be had in Himachal. Pahari ornaments with coins as well as precious stones fitted into them are much admired. Other items such as collar like hansalis as well as clasps with crocodile and lion heads are also used by the woment of Himachal.
Leather craft is another significant craft of the state. The traditional chappals (slippers) of Chamba are not only beautiful but very comfortable as well. They are embroidered with colorful threads and at times with Zari (golden thread). You will also find a range of shoes, sandals, socks and belts.
Pahari jewellery is artistic and elaborate. It has the vigour and sturdiness of style that comes from nature itself. The designs are borrowed from simple motifs like seeds, flowers and leaves and developed into exquisite patterns. While different communities wear jewellery unique to their traditions, some ornaments are worn all over. These include the hemispherical boss or chak – worn on the crown and both sides of the head. Neck ornaments are important in all districts – from collar like hansli or small pendants called toke. The Pahari variant of the torque is a long necklace of numerous chains linked together by silver plaques. Chandanhaar is a necklace comprising five or seven rows of facetted gold beads. One of the most cherished neckpieces is a coin necklace. The choker worn here is called kach and consists of silver beads and triangular plaques. Earrings are often worn with drops or granulations, nose studs are embedded with precious and semiprecious stones and often, an ornament of pendants is strung to it. Chiri tikka is a flat piece of silver, enamelled or embedded with pearls and suspended from the centre of the forehead while several chains hang along the hairline on both sides. The jutti is a heavy bunch of silver tassels or flowers, attached to the plait while a smaller ornament, beshtar is tied to the plait ends. Men, women and children often wear silver amulets to ward off evil spirits – a tradition carried to the hills from the plains. In lower Himachal, there is a marked preference for gold ornaments while deeper in the villages, silver is more common. While there is a basic homogeneity in the jewellery and style of adornment, each community has ornaments distinct to it. Some important towns for buying hill jewellery are Moti Bazaar in Mandi, Chaugan bazaar in Chamba, Kangra town, Sultanpur and Kullu. There is also a village called Sunarion ki Gaon near Rohru, where many families are engaged in jewellery fashioning.
E
mbrodery and
W
ool Weaving
Beautiful embroidery work is actually performed by the Pahari women who do this in their leisure time. Amazing items such as hand fans, scarves, gloves, etc. are made of embroidered work. One would love to bag the traditionally embroidered scarves made in dark orange and red colors. The embroidery is quite intricate that it is difficult to spot any loose threads or knots. Pashmina is the finest type of cashmere wool. The textiles made from it were first woven in Kashmir, India.The name comes from Persian: /pašmina, meaning “made from wool”.The wool comes from changthangi or Pashmina goat, which is a special breed of goat indigenous to high altitudes of the Himalayas in India, Nepal and Pakistan. Pashmina shawls are hand spun, woven and embroidered in Nepal and Kashmir, and made from fine cashmere fibre The state is well known for its handicrafts. The carpets, leather works, shawls, metalware, woodwork and paintings are worth appreciating. Pashmina shawls are a product
that is highly in demand in Himachal and all over the country. Himachali caps are famous art work of the people. Extreme cold winters of Himachal necessitated wool weaving. Nearly every household in Himachal owns a pit-loom. Wool is considered as pure and is used as a ritual cloth. The well-known woven object is the shawl, ranging from fine pashmina to the coarse desar
Handloom Popularity The Utility to the common man and extreme adoration for them in the western and the national markets alike are making the weaving couture alive and flourishing in the state of Himachal. There is a never ending demand for zari and the Borcaded work. The range of saris starts from the Banarsi Amru, and reach the Tanchoi through the Paithani, Patola and the cotton from the clannish regions of Bihar. These are some of the weaving designs and patterns that are used extensively across the country and add to the enchantment of the Indian Woman. There is an abundance of resources obtainable to the customers these days. Different silks are available in all the varieties. Luxuriantly embellished clothes, woven shawls and other products of household needs are much in fashion. Craftsmen from the entire nation ranging from Gujarat, Kashmir, Manipur, Assam and various other states keep contributing to the art. Pherans and tablecloths from Kashmir are also in vogue these days apart from the shawls of the north east and Himachal. Goods like bed covers, mats fro tables, handkerchiefs, family furniture etc. crafted with a variety of styles of fabric print that range starting from tie and dye, block printing, hand-printing etc. have a swollen demand these days. The procurement of Arts and Crafts are not only contributors for a lot to the continued growth of the nation’s pastoral financial system but also contributes as a major constituent of the civilizing interview schedule.
Technical Specifications
Yarn used: Warp - 2/ 16 Woolen Worsted or blended. Weft - 2/ 16 Woolen Worsted or blended. Patterning - Warp- 2/ 44’s, 2/ 48’s Woolen Worsted or Acrylic & Weft 2/ 32’s Woolen Worsted or Acrylic. 2-3 ply and Weave- 2/ 2 twill for plain portion & weft rib for patterning. Size - Kullu Caps come in the size of small, medium and large, locally numbered as: Small- # 2, 3, 4. Medium- # 5, 6, 7. Large- #8 & 9.
Handloom of Himachal Pradesh The craft of Himalayas has been influenced by the indigenous Rajputana style and also hints from the adapted style of the Central Asian region. Another strong influence has come through the refugees who came here from Tibet and brought their own culture with them. Tibetan Handlooms are available easily in the markets of Tibetan influence in Shimla, Dharamshala, Manali and McLeodganj. Thangkas are basically canvases which have been painted and embroidered are perhaps the most beautiful of them. Handloom Products -Carpets, blankets, Shawls, bed sheets, caps, woolen garments and handkerchiefs. Basic products Materials –Wool is obviously the chief raw material and is acquired from the rabbits of angora, goats of the mountains. Another source lies in the breeding of sheep in the farms of Chamba,Kinnaur, Hamirpur and Mandi. Excellent quality oak tasar and mulberry silk are acquired from the Hamirpur, Bilaspur,Kangra, Una and Sirmaur districts. Vegetable Dyes and chemicals are then added to dye the threads. Mr. Devi Prakash Sharma who joined Kullu Shawl Improvement Center as a technician developed diverse designs, visited the various co-operatives and individual weavers and promoted new designs. The patterns: Plain shawl made of single color without any design or pattern. Plain with border of a traditional pattern or colored stripes on the four sides. Plain with ek phool i.e. traditional pattern on its both ends. Plain with teen phool i.e. three traditional patterns on two ends. Shawl having design all over it.
Australian Merino Wool Natural fair fleece- ends, imported from Australia are cleaned, carded and spun at the spinning mills at Ludhiana, Amritsar, Panipat, Kullu, etc. The fiber is soft and well in worth. Kullu ShawlsMost of the Kullu shawls are prepared in this quality wool tinted in diverse colors. At times hand- spun Merino wool may also be used for the weft in the case of the hand- spun array of shawls. Usually the count of the yarn used for the body ranges from 2/44’s to 2/ 50’s. The count of the reed used maybe 36’s, 40’s or 42’s. Most commonly, a 2/ 48’s warp is woven using a reed of 42’s count- this is considered to be the ideal combination for weaving the ground fabric as well as the patterned border of the shawl. Local Wool This is the wool acquired from sheep bred in Himachal Pradesh. Most of them are migratory. In summer, the sheep migrate from the villages in the lower plains to the higher up Himalayan paddocks for grazing with the Gaddies or local shepherds. Through the glacial iciness, the sheep are brought back to their villages in the lower Himalayas. These sheep are sheared twice a year during the autumn and spring seasons i.e. in the months of September and April. This wool is obtainable in natural white, black, grey and brown. Due to its coarseness, local wool is usually used for floorings and blankets. Pashmina Wool This wool is taken from the under belly of the Pashmina goat existing in Tibet. The shawls woven from Pashmina range from a fine to super- fine quality. They are pure and light, yet tremendously warm. Owing to the high cost of labor involved in the sorting of fine Pashmina fiber they are pretty expensive but trendy.
The word ‘ Chamba rumal ‘ implies a peculiar visual art form that represents unique and charming embroidery done on a hand spun cloth with untwisted silken thread,which is greatly inspired from pahari painting. he tradition of this kind of pictorial embroidery was known & practiced in some areas of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu which remained once important centres of pahari painting. Rumal is Persian word which means a ’ kerchief ’, a square piece of cloth worn on the head or around the neck. The cloth employed for the embroidery was generally unbleached muslin or khaddar.The drawing was drawn in outlines with fine brush by the accomplished pahari painters sometimes,the female embroiders would prefer to draw the patterns and figures themselves.
shawls
Kullu Shawls have created a name worldwide for their unique designs and quality. Bhuttico makes the best Kullu shawls and since 1944, Bhuttico has been keeping alive the Himalayan traditions in step with the latest trends. A group of 12 weavers from Bhutti village came together in the year 1944 and established a cooperative society known as the Bhutti Weavers Cooperative Society.In 1993-94 Bhuttico proved itself the best in the business of hand-loom shawls by winning the National Award (GOLD) from the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.
woolen patterns and pashmina shawl
traditional yak wool
Stone and metal works
stone-work Stone Craft : Stone Craft has been a known Handicraft in Himachal Pradesh since time immemorial probably due to easy availability of stone throughout the region. Stone articles such as circular pots (kundi), millstones (chakki), pestle and mortar (dauri and danda) and traditional stoves (angithi) are made and in demand even today. handicraft of stone sculpting is practiced in the regions of Chamba, Kinnaur, Mandi and Shimla Hills. Mohra, the mask of a dietyMetal Crafts of Kullu include Mohras (The masks of the deities), Ornaments, Musical Instruments, various articles of household use and Sheet Metal products. There are excellent wood carvings in the temples of Kullu. These traditionally made temples display remarkable Woodcraft . Pulla, the slipper made out of marijuana stem fibers There are many lesser known crafts in Kullu. The widly practiced are slippers of grass, straw carpets, mattresses, woolen quilts, hand knitted woolens and baskets.
Metal Craft : Metal Craft is one of the ancient and most developed Handicraft of Himachal Pradesh. The traditional pure metals, copper and silver were used in day-to-day life such as utensils and jewelry. The artisanship in casting, ornamenting and etching on copper and silver show superb proficiency, daintiness and taste.
In contemporary era, the mountain artisans have been facing a plethora of problems, issues and challenges. The young and new generatins do not prefer practicing the ancestral profession; thus only 30% population of artisan communities is engaged in family profession. Several artisan communities such as Julahas, Kolis, Barde, Lohars, etc. have given up their ancestral professions as a result of complex social, economic and political developments. Those who still survive in art and craft productions face the problems related to raw material, institutional support, legal framework, market space, access to capital, technology improvement and social recognition. Additionally, the governments – central or provincial – do not have policies supporting the artisans; and various legislations restrict the artisans to access the raw materials, production spaces, market opportunities and storage &transport facilities. The artisans rarely get benefits of insurance, cooperative societies, labour unions, health facilities, subsidy schemes, compensation schemes, skill upgradation, credit facilities, and so on. As a result, the artisans are reduced to the status of labourers and hence they generally migrate to places like Ludhiana, Chandigarh, Delhi, etc. Therefore, in absence of social, economic and political environments enabling the artisans to survive, the cultural treasure of Himachal Pradesh is erosing fast coupled with no efforts of preservation, revitalization and perpetuation.
Bibliography Design direction In order to promote and encourage tourists to buy traditional handicrafts that will in turn help the pahari artisans and preserve their dying culture of producing traditional handicrafts. the design solution will be a brochure that will contain different types of handicrafts and where to shop for them ,the famous emporiums that are selling handicrafts .the different cities that are famous for handicrafts .it will be a tourism brochure .It will be a handheld fan brochure .
Berreman, Gerald D. (1972). Hindus of the Himalayas: Ethnography and Change. 2nd ed. Berkeley: University of California Press. Grierson, G. A. (1916). Linguistic Survey of India. Vol. 9, pt. 4, 1. Calcutta: Superintendent of Government Printing. Majumdar, D. N. (1972). Himalayan Polyandry: Structure, Functioning, and Culture Change, a Field-Study of Jaunsar Bawar. New York: Asia Publishing House. Newell, William H. (1967). Census of India, 1961. Vol. 20, Himachal Pradesh, pt. 5-B, The Gaddi and Affiliated Castes in the Western Himalyas, Report on Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes. Delhi: Manager of Publications. Parry, Jonathan P. (1979). Caste and Kinship in Kangra. London: Routledge and Kegan Paul. Raha, Manis Kumar, ed. (1987). The Himalayan Heritage. Delhi: Gian Publishing House. Raha, Manis Kumar, and Satya Narayan Mahato (1985). The Kinnaurese of the Himalayas. Memoirs of the Anthropological Survey of India, no. 63. Calcutta. GERALD D. BERREMAN ARYAN, S. Crafts of Himachal Pradesh In-text: (Aryan, 1993) Bibliography: Aryan, S. (1993). Crafts of Himachal Pradesh. Ahmedabad: Mapin. Anon, (2015). [online] Available at: http://himachalonline [Accessed 25 Apr. 2015].