4 minute read
Kofi McCalla
The art of styling it out
The fashion world is famously impenetrable, but this YouTuber went from making videos in his bedroom to waltzing into its inner circle
Words EMMA FINAMORE Photography LOUIS FRY
Walk around central London dressed smartly enough and there’s a chance you’ll be approached by Kofi McCalla. He might even ask what you’re wearing. Don’t be affronted, you’re in prestigious company. Bella Hadid, Usher and even infamously frosty Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour have all been hit-and-run by the British vlogger – the latter two at a Balmain show at Paris Fashion Week last year, where Wintour responded to his probing with a curt “No”.
But McCalla is the fashion world’s chancer, creating content through risk and gamble, and begging others for forgiveness over permission as he quizzes them on a handheld camera for his YouTube channel, The Unknown Vlogs. What began as a teenage hobby in 2014 has amassed more than 120 million views and made McCalla a leading voice in the streetwear market – a fashion subculture that mixes the skate and sportswear aesthetic with highend independent brands.
“Streetwear is a community and a form of escapism,” McCalla explains. “When I first started, there was no documentation of streetwear on the internet. Most of the world doesn’t get it. I decided to fill that space, explain it to everyone.”
From revealing first drops of street brands such as Supreme to tracking thrift-shop trends in Tokyo and hitting runway shows for Prada, McCalla’s videos make the scene accessible and easy to understand. In his newest video series, What Are People Wearing Today, he interviews style-conscious types on the street, right across the UK. “I show how the community celebrates products and designers, as well as how everyday people make their own style.”
This has earned him a following as diverse as those he approaches. In 2019, Canadian rapper Drake DM-ed McCalla to ask if he could appear in an episode – something the vlogger describes as a “Whoa! WTF?! moment”. But then, McCalla has a knack for looking past the image, labels and price tags, and finding the individual beneath.
the red bulletin: What made you start filming streetwear?
kofi mccalla: Growing up, I lived in a town that was closed-minded. I’d visit the Supreme store in London and go home like, “Boom, check out these clothes,” but no one got it. That’s why I first posted online – I found an audience on YouTube that was just getting into streetwear and wanted to know more.
It takes some courage to approach the likes of Anna Wintour…
When you have a passion project, you just want to show the world “this is my baby”. At that show in Paris, I wasn’t thinking about what Anna Wintour would think of me; I was thinking that I had this amazing chance to tell her about my channel and feature her in my video. I’m always thinking, “I’ve made it in here, I need to make the most of it.” Creating content has been my life since 2014, and it’s always been escapism for me, but now it’s something I live off. It’s my job to run over and try.
Did anyone try to stop you filming?
Definitely. The whole Balmain team were scared, and just before I walked up to her everyone behind the camera was telling me not to. But she’s still human, and talking to people about clothes is what I do, so I was just like, “Anna Wintour. Oh, hey, what’s up?”
What was the inspiration for What Are People Wearing Today?
Lockdown was tough for us all. As we went back outside, I wanted to show people connecting again. This video series is as much about people as about clothes. I wanted to give the feeling that you [the viewer] are the camera, finding out how people are doing as well as what they’re wearing.
How do you pick the right person to approach?
I try to feature people as diverse as possible. I look at the colour palette they’re wearing, the silhouette and what kind of shapes they’ve made with their clothes. Sometimes I recognise a random low-key designer, but once I approached a guy and he turned out to be wearing almost all Primark. It’s how you style it.
Where do you find the most interesting people?
It’s a cliché, but Soho in London. You can wear anything there and not be judged. I’m heavily inspired by Parisian fashion. Thrifting is big there. Gen Z are thrifting the craziest clothes.
How are Gen Z changing fashion?
They’ve brought more awareness of sustainability. Is it ethically made? Are you using real leather or not? They’re also buying more into people and less into brands. I think there’ll be a point, even with high-street brands, where influencers become creative directors.
Tell us about that Drake DM…
He just messaged me out of the blue. Of course I’m a fan, but when we met I was more “Right, let’s get this done.” He was the one telling my friends he’d watched my videos. By that point I was already working with Balmain, Dior… I felt I was in a position I’d earned. Watch McCalla’s YouTube channel The Unknown Vlogs at youtube.com
