Grid Magazine June 2010 by Red Flag Media

Sustainable Philadelphia

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The Fair Food Philadelphia

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

june 2010 / issue 15 gridphilly.com

World’s Apart

Michael Dolich brings back the neighborhood bakery

Sour Patch Pickles at Supper, and at home

Scavenger Hunt A foraging adventure in Lancaster County

Also

Cool roofs, Growing Power’s Will Allen, one spectacular high wheel bicycle and Madame Fromage’s ode to cheese

ImprovIng commutes and communItIes A SEPTA bus removes up to 39 cars from the road. Our railcars, up to 120. That adds up to a better commute, better environment, and a better Philadelphia region.

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Home Made

publisher

Alex Mulcahy 215.625.9850 ext. 102 alex@gridphilly.com distribution

Alex passed his Publisher’s Notes duties along to me this month because I am, simply put, obsessed with food. I’ve been looking forward to this issue for months.

Claire Connelly 215.625.9850 ext. 100 claire@gridphilly.com

ast June, I moved back to Philadelphia—my hometown—after a few years in the wilderness (read: Nashville, TN). My first weekend in town, I walked to the Fitler Square farmers’ market and amassed an impressive haul—arugula, fresh sweet peas, strawberries, pea shoots. I came home and made a salad, tossing everything together in a plastic mixing bowl with a quickly whipped up lemon-Dijon vinaigrette. I sat down on the couch, bowl nestled in my lap, and ate. Right then, I knew I had made the right decision coming back here. Because Philly is awesome. For a food-and-beer obsessive like me, this is the Promised Land—a place where you can eat and drink incredibly well, in laid back environs, without breaking the bank. For devotees of exciting, unpretentious food—that you can bike to!—our underrated city can’t be beat. And, due to the close proximity of some of the country’s best farmland, you can form relationships with—or at least allegiances to—specific growers and producers. It’s a rare day when my fridge doesn’t hold Country Time Farm bacon, Meadow Run eggs and unhomogenized whole milk from Lancaster County’s Natural By Nature Co-op. (My younger brother still finds it creepy that I have to shake the glass jar before pouring). Then there are the restaurants—even at humble neighborhood bars, you’ll find chefs building beautiful burgers using local grass-fed beef or topping seasonal salads with pungent Pennsylvania cheese. And, all around town, specific farms are earning menu shout-outs. Restaurants wouldn’t be doing that if the information didn’t matter to people here. And the beer. Oh the beer! The growth of Philly’s food scene can not be divorced from our love of local suds. Go into any place worth its salt and you’re guaranteed at least a couple selections from Philly favorites. (Believe it or not, this is not the case everywhere in America, where you’re often left deciding between Stella Artois and Sam Adams—or maybe a Sierra Nevada if you’re lucky.) Even our baseball stadium carries beers from Sly Fox, Yards, Flying Fish, PBC and other local standouts. After a year back, there are still moments when I am overcome by the simple pleasures of being here. Sitting at the bar, drinking a Weyerbacher Double Simcoe IPA at The Sidecar, glancing up to see the Phils in the midst of yet another improbable comeback. Biking home from the Headhouse Square Farmers’ Market, green garlic tops bulging out of my messenger bag, carefully avoiding the plethora of potholes in the Spruce Street bike lane. Sitting in Rittenhouse Square with a sandwich and an iced tea, watching this remarkable city unfold in front of me. Like I said, awesome.

c o ver ph o t o by jo n p ushni k

managing editor

Lee Stabert lee@gridphilly.com art director

Jamie Leary jamie@gridphilly.com As you may have noticed, this issue of Grid is a bit heftier than usual—which is only appropriate, since it’s stuffed with great food. Inside, you’ll find Fair Food’s Local Food Guide 2010, a compilation of listings and information on CSAs, farmers’ markets, restaurants, breweries, specialty producers and more. We are incredibly excited about this partnership. Fair Food are not only our neighbors (Grid’s offices are less than a block from the Farmstand at Reading Terminal), but a kindred organization, dedicated to fostering a more local, sustainable and delicious food system for our region. As for Grid itself, the theme of this year’s Food Issue is “The Return of the Artisan.” You’ll learn about Michael Dolich’s efforts at Four Worlds Bakery, read about Mitch Prensky’s peculiar pickles at Supper and see pictures of goats (in conjunction with a story about the rise of local, artisanal goat cheese producers). Lastly, Marisa McClellan offers a few tips on becoming your own artisan and debunks myths about the perils of home-canning. There are also recipes, a wonderful essay by Tenaya Darlington (a.k.a. Madame Fromage), and an account of my adventure foraging for mushrooms in the woods with Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op’s irrepressible Casey Spacht. If you’re hungry by the time you reach the last page, we’ve done our job.

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Mark Evans mark@gridphilly.com 215.625.9850 ext. 105 intern

Ariela Rose Cassie Cummins writers

Cassie Cummins Tenaya Darlington Julie Lorch Marisa McClellan Ariela Rose Lee Stabert Char Vandermeer Samantha Wittchen photographers

Lucas Hardison Jon Pushnik Jason Varney illustrators

Jim Tierney published by

Red Flag Media 1032 Arch Street, 3rd Floor Philadelphia, PA 19107 215.625.9850 g r i d p h i l ly . c o m

Lee Stabert Managing Editor lee@gridphilly.com

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Infill Philadelphia Receives Community Action Grant from the ULI

nfill Philadelphia has more than one reason to celebrate. The five-year urban revitalization initiative will complete phase three of the program this fall, and they’ve also been awarded a $25,000 grant from the Urban Land Institute’s (ULI) Community Action Grants program. Grant recipients are judged on ULI’s three core values: sustainability, infrastructure and workforce/ affordable housing. Conceived by the Community Design Collaborative, Infill has excelled in all three areas, bringing attention to the city’s countless vacant and neglected spaces. Since 2007, the initiative has used design to inspire ideas for revitalizing older neighborhoods. The Pilot Program created innovative prototypes for affordable housing in low-income neighborhoods. Phase 1 offered solutions for revitalizing commercial corridors, and Phase 2 worked to improve food access in underserved areas, in partnership with the Reinvestment Fund and the Food Trust. The in-progress third phase is focused on the reuse of industrial sites, once proud symbols of Philadelphia’s status as “Workshop of the World.” The grant money will be used to spread the ideas of industrial site reuse and assist the initiative as it looks ahead to future opportunities. “We are delighted to receive the support and recognition of the Urban Land Institute because it shines a light on Philadelphia and the role innovative design can play in preparing opportunities for new investment and economic development in cities,” says Beth Miller, Executive Director of the Community Design Collaborative. Upcoming: The CDC will reveal the results of their Infill Philadelphia: Industrial Sites Design Challenge on May 27 at the Center for Architecture (1218 Arch St.) The program—scheduled to run 4 6:30 p.m.—will feature commentary by a diverse panel of experts. For more information, visit infillphiladelphia.org —Ariela Rose

Lots of Food

A CSA sprouts in West Philadelphia

by cassie cummins

here is an abundance of Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs across Pennsylvania, but the latest West Philadelphia CSA is significantly different. ¶ The urban farm CSA being launched at 53rd and Wyalusing Streets is headed by Urban Tree Connection, a nonprofit dedicated to assisting low-income communities in the revitalization of their neighborhoods through community-based urban greening. This process involves transforming vacant lots—often plagued by drug trade and other illegal activities—into vital green spaces. Since the organization’s establishment as a nonprofit 13 years ago, Urban Tree Connection has focused on youth education programs in West Philly’s Haddington neighborhood. Most of their gardens are used as demonstration sites or work spaces for youth and children’s gardening clubs. But with this new CSA experiment, Urban Tree Connection is hoping to create a self-sustaining, neighborhood institution. Local families will work the land and gain access to fresh, healthy food. Urban Tree Connection is still in the process of structuring the farm’s share-system and explor-

ing ways to make the cost of a share affordable for low-income residents. Founder and Executive Director of Urban Tree Connection Skip Wiener says that they are hoping to use donations to subsidize the cost of shares. After a decade of growing gardens in the Haddington community, the relationship between the community and Urban Tree Connection is very special. “We’ve grown up with these kids,” says Wiener. “They’re a part of our lives.” For information, visit urbantreeconnection.org.

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/ local business

Black Gold

A local company helps Philly businesses jump on the composting bandwagon by lee stabert

here is one word showing up left and right on the lips of top urban sustainability and food access experts: compost. To hear them speak of it, the stuff is magic—now it’s just a matter of getting the rest of society on board. Philly Compost, a year-old company based in Northwest Philadelphia, is doing their part to bring the city’s businesses into the fold. Philly Compost was founded by Lee Meinicke and Meenal Raval. A longtime recycling advocate, Raval had been a backyard composter for years, while Meinicke was getting her MBA in sustainable business. “I started talking to people about what sorts of recycling, reuse, manufacturing-type businesses were missing from the landscape,” she says. “Composting came up several times. This is not anything I ever really set out to do, but I’ve become incredibly passionate about it.”

In Philadelphia, businesses don’t qualify for city waste disposal services. For restaurants and institutions, a large portion of their output is foodstuffs. “If we take their food waste, it can save them a little bit of money,” explains Meinicke. “If we take the wet stuff out of their garbage stream, their weight goes down, and they can have their waste service pick up less frequently, because it’s not as stinky or heavy.” Meinicke met Michael Bryan-Brown, owner of

quick hits

Weaver’s Way

will open their third location in Chestnut Hill this month. Housed in the former Caruso’s Market (8418 Germantown Avenue), the new space will offer an expanded shopping experience, with 6,700 square feet of retail and off-street parking. Weaver’s Way has transformed the building into a model of green design: solar panels have been installed, systems are in place to control stormwater runoff and all building materials were sourced from within 500 miles of the site. For information, visit weaversway.coop.

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Green Mountain Technologies, when she was in graduate school. Philly Composting eventually purchased Green Mountain’s Earth Tub, a fullyenclosed 4-foot tall, 7.5-foot wide composting vessel featuring power mixing and aeration. Meinicke became so enamored with this hyper-efficient composting tool that she became the company’s regional sales rep. Bryan-Brown recently came east on a business trip, and was thrilled with Philly Composting’s operation. “He was so excited,” recalls Meinicke. “He said, ‘This is really the kind of application that many of us dreamed of—it’s local, small-scale composting.’” When Philly Compost launched, they were based out of a facility in Germantown, but quickly found that the high rent wasn’t feasible for a business with such slim profit margins. They went looking for a partner, and are now in the process of moving their operations to the Schuylkill Center for Environmental Education. (During the transition, they’ve been hauling their materials to composter extraordinaire Ned Foley at Two Particular Acres.) Not only does the Schuylkill Center have tremendous volunteer resources, it’s also home to Urban Girls Farm, creating a closed-resource-loop bonanza. Philly Compost are doing all they can to foster the composting movement, even if it does nothing for their bottom line. On their website, they’ve compiled a Google Map showing private and public composting sites. They encourage residents to open their backyards—and their compost piles—to neighbors. They have also approached the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society about offering “Master Composter” classes. This all goes to show that this is more than a business to Raval and Meinicke. In addition to improving Philadelphia’s soil, they think composting can have a broader influence. “Composting as locally as possible has a tremendous impact on climate change,” explains Meinicke. “If you throw your food waste in the garbage, it goes to a landfill where it breaks down, generating methane—a greenhouse gas. You also have a huge trucking impact, hauling stuff to a landfill that’s 30, 40, 50 miles away from where you cut up your celery. So, when you combine those two things together, this really has a huge impact.” ■

For information, visit phillycompost.com. And keep an eye out for “We Compost With Philly Compost” stickers at local businesses.

Beer Week

—it’s the most magical time of the year, or at least the tipsiest. June 4-13, Philadelphia will once again celebrate its ascension as a beer drinker’s nirvana with 10 days of, well, beer. Our region is home to over 30 breweries and brewpubs, and an even larger number of top-shelf bars, serving local suds with pride. Everyone will be getting into the act; visit phillybeerweek.org for a full listing of events. The festivities kick off with Opening Tap 2010 at the Independence Visitor Center. Witness the arrival of the mythical “Hammer of Glory,” and the tapping of the first keg.

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june 20 10

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/ bike culture

ice ride!” shouts a dude on a bike. “Awesome!” yells another. In 2010, a high wheel bicycle is a strange sight in Center City. But in 1886, the year that Curtis Anthony’s prized Victor was built, the high wheel represented state-ofthe-art bicycle engineering. Many collectors would scoff at riding this valuable antique, just as they would be shocked to know that Anthony actually wears his 1975 Harrogate racing cap instead of, say, keeping it in a glass case. But Anthony believes in riding the bike. Anthony opened Via Bicycles 29 years ago with a $5,000 loan from his mother, backed by an antique bed for collateral. “I was a bike nut,” admits Anthony. “I thought I knew something about bikes. But as soon as I started the shop, I realized how little I knew.” Our ride begins at the shop on 9th Street (near South), and cuts a winding route along the Schuylkill River. It’s a breezy Sunday morning. We talk about plans for our summer gardens, and Anthony recounts adorable tales of Curtie, his four-and-a-half year old son: On the way back from John’s Water Ice one night, Curtie rode on Anthony’s shoulders, dripping all over his head. “I said, ‘Curtie, let’s sit down on a step and enjoy this together,’” recalls Anthony. “So, we’re on the step, and, you know when you put a nut and a bolt together and there’s that round thing with a hole in it?” “A washer,” I offer. “Yes. So, he picks one up and goes, ‘Daddy, look—a dryer!’” I’m smiling as we come up to a short, steep downhill. The high wheel is fixed-gear, and has no breaks. Before I can even imagine how this will work, Anthony whips his right leg around the back of the bicycle, puts his foot on top of the tiny rear wheel and slows the Victor with the rubber sole of his Vans. It is truly a site to behold. The high wheel continues to forge an effortless path through the crowd. “As soon as I got on it, it was like,

with

Via Bicycles’

curtis anthony by julie lorch

Julie Lorch pedals along with notable members of Philly’s bicycle community on a route of their choice. They ride, they chat, she reports back. the route 13

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Fairmount Park

11th St

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e Av

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Walnut St Chestnut St Market St

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Falls Bridge r ve Ri ve ill r Dri ylk e u v h Ri Sc

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‘That’s beautiful,’” says Anthony of his Victor. “Like when you kiss somebody or give them a hug, and you know it’s awesome—it was like that.” He pauses. “It was an immediate connection.” At this point, it seems relevant to mention that Curtis Anthony sports one hell of a handlebar mustache. He asks me to compare the curvature of his ’stache with the handlebars of his high wheel. They’re a perfect match. We cross Falls Bridge and pick up West River Drive, which is closed to traffic today. Almost every cyclist we pass either knows Anthony, has bought a bike from him or stops to ogle the high wheel. We bump into Joel Flood, another familiar face, near the Strawberry Mansion Bridge. Flood runs bikeville.com, Via’s blog, and accompanies Anthony to flea markets, swaps and sales to buy vintage inventory for Via. Like Anthony, he’s riding a bicycle that could be sitting in a museum: a 1961 Schwinn Paramount Tourist. “I love my bikes,” says Flood. “I feel it’s perfectly acceptable to ride these awesome bikes around the city. They were intended to be used, not coveted.” As we ride along, Flood and Anthony point out bikes they’ve sold to customers over the years. It feels like they must be at least partly responsible for the high concentration of beautiful old bicycles in Philadelphia. “I don’t know if you’ve ever seen the van full,” says Anthony of the scene after the swaps. “We bring back huge loads at least a half-dozen times a year. We usually have 50 to 60 bikes—one time we had 71.” He pauses, thinking about the beloved van. “That almost killed Morrison.” Flood rides ahead to Rittenhouse to count dogs in the park while we stop to sit in the grass by the river. An 1872 wrench falls out of Anthony’s pocket. “That’s a real wrench from the day of this bike,” he says. We talk about his first shop on Bainbridge, increased business from SEPTA strikes, solid rubber tires and single speeds. “With gas prices being so high a few years ago—plus parking being such a nuisance—people were finding out how easy it is to get around on bicycle,” he says. He also has a suggestion for making bicycling more comfortable in the city: “Surfacing the bike lanes would be a good thing.” “Riding bikes just makes people happy,” he adds. “It makes them laugh.” And, like a vintage gentleman, Anthony drops me at my front door on his way back to the shop. ■

Via Bicycles, a neighborhood bike shop with a vintage bent, is located at 606 S. 9th St. Visit bikeville.com.

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/ profile

You talk about compost on a large scale, but what would you tell an urban apartment dweller? What can they do? You can actually compost anaerobically [without air] in a simple five gallon bucket. All you need is some carbon—newspaper, magazines—to mix in with your food waste. If you’re single, it would probably take a month or more—unless you were a ferocious eater [Allen laughs]—to fill up that bucket. The best food waste is 20 percent solid, so it’s gonna shrink. The carbon absorbs all the moisture and it starts to break down in the bucket. Say over winter, you collect three buckets, you’ll have quite a lot of stuff. Then you can either take it somewhere or combine it with neighbors and set up a little program. If you have enough friends and everyone donates, it’s amazing how much you can collect just by setting up a little compost co-op with friends. When the springtime comes, find a little spot in someone’s backyard. Your compost will already be well on its way. In two months you can start growing.

King of Compost

Urban farmer and MacArthur Grant recipient Will Allen on the importance of greens, worms and more by lee stabert

verything about Will Allen is big. The pro basketball player turned urban agriculture iconoclast has hands like baseball mitts, and arms like tree trunks. His normal uniform—jeans, baseball hat, hooded sweatshirt with the sleeves removed—only serves to emphasize the power of his gentle, hulking presence. ¶ In 1993, after leaving a job in the corporate world, Allen purchased the scant two acres in northwest Milwaukee that would become Growing Power, his urban farm. He immediately started growing, inviting people from the neighborhood to get involved and share in the bounty. Thanks to creative use of space, innovative sustainable farming practices, and Allen’s zealous commitment to compost, the farm has become stunningly productive—a paragon of high-yield urban agriculture and community activism. In 2008, Allen was awarded a MacArthur Foundation Genius Grant. In April, appearing as keynote speaker for the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society’s Compost Matters Conference, Allen decided to dress it up—a hoodie with the sleeves intact. Grid grabbed a few minutes with him after his talk, wrangling him into a quiet corner of the auditorium. Fortunately, he came willingly. Dude is huge. You’re very into growing greens. Lots of greens. We grow 159 different varieties of vegetables, a little bit of everything. But in the winter time, 10

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because of the heat factor and the light factor, greens are the easiest to grow. But as we add more renewable energy to our system—and are able to use more artificial light—we’re gonna get into warm weather crops like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. There’s big opportunity there. Not everybody wants to eat seasonally. You know it’s hard to convince people to rely on potatoes, carrots and root crops. We’ve kind of spoiled ourselves. People don’t can anymore. People want fresh stuff, so it’s important for us to grow a broad spectrum of crops year round.

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A lot of people would worry about the smell. You just need a bucket with an O-ring gasket. They’re easy—not like the old days. You can go buy one at any paint store, or somewhere like Loews. They keep the smells inside. Absolutely no smells! Unless you leave drippings hanging down in the bucket or something. [Allen laughs] You can decorate them, get a white one and paint it or put little decals on it. The press has obviously been a really powerful tool for your message; I first read about you in a New York Times Magazine feature. I think there’s a big shift in public perception going on—from “sustainability” being sort of a hippy-dippy yuppie thing to being a broader movement. As a person of color, running a really diverse organization, you’re harder to pigeonhole. Even though I don’t talk about it a lot, I think that has been one of the big changes. Because I am a person of color, I think it has probably made a lot of people more comfortable talking about these issues. When I first started doing this, I’d go to meetings and I’d be the only person of color for many, many years and that’s changing now. We need to dismantle a lot of the racism around the food system, in terms of redlining in communities, with grocery stores not wanting to go in and funders denying funding. Most of the people in organizations that are doing [urban agricultural] work are doing it in peopleof-color neighborhoods. We need to do things in a very multicultural way. We can’t just do it by slamming people into the ground, we need to do it, you know, the way we’re doing it—through action, through projects, and bringing everybody to the table and discussing the problem up front, not trying to slide it under the table and pretend it doesn’t exist.

I think being a person of color in a forgotten urban area has also brought you a lot of attention. I mean, it’s a great story: You’re in Milwaukee! Milwaukee, I think, is now the urban ag[riculture] capitol of the world, or close. The largest urban ag small farm conference ever held will be in Milwaukee this September. We don’t go out there and tell people, “Here we are as an organization! We’re going to come into your community and change the world.” We get invited into communities. We don’t ever go out there and solicit work. We built this center in Milwaukee that people came to see, then they went around the country and told other people. So, if you come and you like what you see there, then go out and tell ten of your friends, that’s how you build a revolution. If there’s one policy change that a local government can make, what would it be? There’s several. They need to change policies on composting, on beekeeping, and allow citizens up to four chickens in their backyard— not roosters, but layers. Beekeeping is something that is very wonderful to do. And every city government needs at least one person that works with community gardens and community farms—a liaison between politicos and the people that are doing the work. In Milwaukee, I can almost do anything. The government may not have money to give you, but they won’t stand in your way when you have a good idea. They look at Growing Power as an asset to the city. We’ve brought in millions of dollars to the city of Milwaukee and they know that. We can create thousands of jobs with this new kind of farming, with urban agriculture. Just think of all the categories of jobs: you’ve got installers, carpenters, plumbers, truck drivers, accountants, electricians, aquaculturists, planners, architects. In a rural area, you don’t need these jobs. Industrial agriculture gets rid of jobs; the machines do everything. This is hand work, it’s communal work, which is important and fun for all of us, all the generations, from little kids to school-age kids to teenagers to college kids. Everybody is involved. Now politicos are involved, corporate companies send their associates to volunteer and corporate companies have foundations to supply some of the money. We also need reporters and publicity people, because one of things that we haven’t been able to do is be proactive and get the word out. All of these wonderful projects are hidden away. We need the public. ■

For more on Will Allen and Growing Power, visit growingpower.org. And for information on PHS’s programs, visit pennsylvaniahorticulturalsociety.org

by char vandermeer

Be the Bee

A guide to helping cucumbers and melons get their groove on

f summer were a taste, it would surely be cucumber—or maybe muskmelon. They’re both little bursts of sunshine on the vine. While your planting space may be limited to a few pots or a tiny patch in a community garden, that doesn’t mean your taste buds should go unfulfilled. Philly may prove to be a tough habitat for these fussy vines, but that just means they’ll require some extra attention. May and June’s warmer days and nights provide the perfect conditions for growing cucurbits, a family of plants that includes cucumbers and melons. Grab a five-gallon bucket, drill a few holes in the bottom and dump in some nice, fluffy soil that’s rich in organic matter—add some compost to the soil if you can. Shove a trellis into the container for the emerging vines to climb, drop in a couple of seeds (your goal is one, maybe two, plants per bucket) and you’re off to a good start. Sometimes, Mother Nature needs some help. Unlike tomatoes and beans, which are

self-pollinators, cucurbits rely exclusively on bees to ensure a healthy harvest. While it’s a good idea to plant a few bright flowers among your vegetables to attract bees, you may still need to do the deed yourself. Insufficient pollination leads to a vastly reduced crop and misshapen fruits. If the bees aren’t buzzing, hand pollination is an easy and satisfying solution to the problem. First you’ll need to identify the male and female flowers. Fortunately, female cucumbers are easily recognized by the miniature cucumber swelling behind the flower; male flowers grow directly from the vine and will outnumber your female blooms substantially. Typically, male flowIT’s a Girl! ers appear first. Don’t Female worry—just be patient cucumbers are and eventually your easy to identify— note the miniature vine will be brimming cucumber with both. swelling behind Once you’ve found the flower your lucky ladies, grab a small paintbrush and gently gather pollen from the anthers of the male flowers by dabbing or twirling the brush inside the bloom. The tip of the brush should have visible yellow pollen on it—I find black brushes show the pollen best. Then, carefully dab the collected pollen onto the pistils inside the female flower. After the female bloom has been successfully fertilized, the flower will fall off and the fruit will mature. Like most vegetables, cucumbers and melons need a full six to eight hours of sun each day. They’re thirsty buggers, too, so make sure you keep the soil good and moist. ■

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/ energy

Cooler Heads For energy savings, cool roofs are a no-brainer by samantha wittchen

he roof is no longer on fire. First there was the Mayor’s “Coolest Block” Contest, offering Philadelphians the chance to win an energy-saving cool roof and other energy efficiency upgrades from the city for every house on their block. Then there was City Council’s Earth Day passage of Councilman Jim Kenney’s legislation requiring reflective (cool) roofs on all new commercial and residential low-slope roofs. So, why the sudden love for cool roofs? It’s simple economics: The Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory’s Heat Island Group estimates that Philadelphians could save a collective $3 million by converting to cool roofs. According to the Department of Energy, this could save the average homeowner up to 20 percent on cooling costs. And, with electricity rates set to increase by as much as 30 percent in January 2011 (due to the expiration of PECO rate caps), this is the ideal time to switch to a cool roof. Need more motivation? Cool roofs also make a row home much more comfortable—traditional black asphalt roofs can reach temperatures as high as 190 degrees in Philadelphia, and that heat radiates throughout the structure. A typical cool roof is 50 to 80 degrees cooler than its asphalt counterpart. What is a cool roof? A cool roof has high solar reflectance—according to the Department of Energy, this is “the most important characteristic… in terms of yielding the 12

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highest energy savings during warmer months.” For the typical Philadelphia homeowner with a low-slope roof, thermoplastic polyolefin, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and EPDM (a synthetic rubber) single-ply membranes are most appropriate. They have reflectivities in the range of 70 percent, as compared with a traditional black roof, which has a reflectivity of 5 percent. Emissivity—or the ability of a material to release absorbed heat—is the second most important value. Most cool roofs also have high emissivity. How much does a cool roof cost? A cool roof’s installation costs are on par with that of a traditional asphalt roof. If it’s time to replace your roof, going with a cool roof is a no-brainer. Even if it isn’t time, a cool roof might still be a good investment, considering the average 20 percent energy savings on cooling costs. To more precisely estimate the savings for your specific home, the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory and the Oak Ridge National Laboratory offer two handy

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online calculators (roofcalc.com and ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/facts/CoolCalcEnergy.htm). When considering the overall cost of a new cool roof, you should also consider that the lifespan of a cool roof is about 10 years longer than that of a traditional asphalt roof. Cool roofs are made of highly flexible elastomeric materials—they can easily undergo major shifts in surface temperature. With traditional roofs, the expansion and contraction causes a more rapid deterioration. One last thing to consider about the cost of your cool roof project is the recent announcement that the city of Philadelphia was selected to receive $25 million from the Department of Energy’s Retrofit Ramp-Up Initiative. Plans are already in motion to use some of that money to provide energy efficiency retrofit loans, which might help you defray some of the upfront costs of a cool roof. If you choose to make the switch, make sure your roofer is familiar with cool roofing materials. If the roofer tells you it’s significantly more expensive to install a cool roof, be suspicious. The Energy Coordinating Agency (ecasavesenergy.org) provides cool roof services, and the Postgreen team (see May 2010’s cover story) used Topline Construction, based out of Conshohocken, on their recent Skinny Project.

Cool Roof vs. Green Roof If you’re not satisfied with the energy-saving benefits of a cool roof, a green roof might be for you. While both cool and green roofs lower surface and air temperatures, extend your roof’s life and lower summertime energy demand, green roofs provide additional benefits, such as reducing stormwater runoff and absorbing pollutants and carbon dioxide. Before you go green, though, you need to make sure your roof joists can support the added weight of a green roof. You’ll need a structural engineer or architect to help you make that judgment. In addition to the expense of hiring that expert, you should also be aware that green roof installation costs range from $10 to $25 per square foot—significantly more than a membrane roof. But, as with a cool roof, there could be energy efficiency grants or loans available to help you finance the project. Roofscapes, Inc. (roofmeadow. com) is a Philadelphia-based company that can help you get started. Regardless of which option you choose, one thing is for certain: In Philadelphia, cool—in one form or another—is the new black. ■

Samantha Wittchen is a managing partner at iSpring, a sustainability consulting firm based out of Philadelphia and the Lehigh Valley.

Philadelphia University

by Samantha Wittchen

RECIPIENT OF THE USGBC AWARD 2009 MASTER OF SCIENCE IN

Pots, Pans and Pyrex

SUSTAINABLE DESIGN A COLLABORATIVE, MULTIDISCIPLINARY LEARNING EXPERIENCE

“The principle of sustainability is reshaping the way we think

The Issue: Recycling your kitchen detritus

about the world, encouraging us to improve the way

The Challenge: Those cheap Walmart pots and pans you bought just out of college are reaching the end of their usefulness, but there’s a good chance they’re made out of aluminum or stainless steel, which are both recyclable. You can’t put them in the blue bin at the curb, but, according to the Institute of Scrap Recycling Industries, recycling aluminum instead of mining virgin ore for new products results in up to a 95 percent reduction in energy use. Matters get complicated if those pans happen to be coated with a non-stick coating—non-stick recycling is almost nonexistent. And, when it comes to broken Pyrex bakeware, no one will take it. The melting temperature is higher than regular glass, which makes it impossible to incorporate into commercial glass recycling operations. The Solution: If you’re upgrading to higher-end cookware and your pots and pans are still functional, consider donating them to an organization that needs them, or take them to Goodwill, the Salvation Army or Second Mile (214 S. 45th St., 215662-1663). If your cookware is no longer functional, S.D. Richman Sons, located in Port

Richmond (2435 Wheatsheaf Ln., 215535-5100), will accept uncoated pans (no non-stick) for recycling. As mentioned in March 2010’s “Recycling Challenge,” they allow passenger vehicles into the facility, so they’re a good choice for residents. Unfortunately, if your pans are non-stick, your two options are repurposing them or sending them to a landfill, unless you’re planning on purchasing new Calphalon Unison cookware (see “The Eco-Aware Consumer” below). As for broken Pyrex, you’re out of luck until Corning initiates a take-back program, so try to find an artist who’s willing to use it for a project. The Eco-Aware Consumer: If you’re in the market to upgrade your cookware, you might consider Calphalon Unison, which comes with a box and prepaid shipping labels for old cookware, regardless of whether or not it’s non-stick. The Calphalon ReNew program recycles the cookware— approximately 35 percent of new cookware is recycled aluminum. If you want to kick your recycled content up a notch, look for Starfrit cookware, which is made with 99 percent recycled aluminum. ■

we design, build and live in the 21st century”

— Rob Fleming, Program Director Become proficient in Green Building Materials, Energy Efficiency, Construction Systems and Sustainable Design

VISIT

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Photography by Tom Crane & Dean Gazzo

june 20 10

g r i d p h i l ly. c o m

/ foraging

left A morel appears on the forest floor above Blood root, a medicinal plant

Found Food: Spring

had never realized the dearth of earth tones in my wardrobe. Casey Spacht, director of Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op and my guide for a day of foraging in Lancaster County, closed his last logistical planning email thusly: “p.s. wear camo......just playing... but would be good. greens, browns.” Eventually, I find a ratty old pair of paint-spattered hunter green sweatpants and pair them with an army green “Know Your Farmer” Tshirt. Needless to say, I’m looking pretty good. I meet Spacht at Susquehanna State Park. He explains that our main target on this sunny April day is morels, the elusive and delicious wild mushrooms that send an army of amateur naturalists into the woods each spring. Spacht, on the other hand, is the real deal. A self-trained forager armed with an encyclopedic knowledge of regional plants, a passion for imparting knowledge and a healthy dose of patience for newbies, he has agreed to show me the wild bounty of each season, starting with spring. Spacht grew up in Lancaster. His family was didn’t have a lot of money, and ate their fair share of processed junk. “We would eat at fast food restaurants all the time,” says Spacht. “Then I would come out into the woods and find amazing raspberries and blackberries, make different teas and eat dandelions. I loved it.” I can relate to that childlike feeling of escape—after all, I’m out of the office on a school day, trekking through the woods in search of treasures unknown. Looking for morels is tough, but if you know where to look, you’ve got an advantage. We leave the path in search of some favored fungal haunts—tulip poplars and dead-and-dying elms and ash trees. I can tell Spacht is worried that we won’t find anything; even experts strike out. Last 14

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year, he took a group of restaurant chefs from New York City (LFFC customers) out looking for morels. “We were out for five hours,” he says with a resigned chuckle. “We found one.” As we begin our search, Spacht points out a plethora of other edible things. He cuts a nest of wild garlic bulbs from the ground and stuffs them in his bag. He encourages me to smell the delicate plum-colored flowers that will, in the distant autumnal future, spawn pawpaws. He hands me garlic mustard to taste, and waxes poetic about the elusive fruit of the May apple: “Everything on the plant is poisonous now,” he explains. “The fruit has to get really ripe and turn bright yellow. It tastes like passion fruit. But it’s really rare—I’ve only ever had, like, six. They’re low to the ground, and the possums and raccoons get them.” Then it happens. Spacht stops. “I see one. Do you see it?” And I do. Nestled in the leaves is an oblong protrusion, light brown and sporting that familiar honeycomb texture. He crouches down and explains that this is when the hardcore looking begins. Where there is one, there are usually more— all connected to the same root-like structure beneath the forest floor. The mushroom is only the fruit of the fungal equivalent to an underground tree. Then there’s another. And another. Discerning the mushrooms in the cacophony of textures

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takes an adjustment of the eye. You can look at one spot a second, third, fourth time, and, on the fifth pass—like a miracle—there it is. Obvious. Blatant. We visit a few more of Casey’s favorite spots; how he remembers them in the anonymous woods, I’ll never know. Every once in a while, he will pick something, offering me a taste or a look: blood root shocks with its deep orange color, the tubers of the cutleaf toothwort plant have a slight horseradish bite, and wood sorrel’s heartshaped leaves explode on by lee stabert my tongue with an unexpected lemony jolt. Mushroom hunters are infamously secretive about their most fruitful spots—hence the camo—and will often go to extremes to get that big score. Extreme, you say? “There was a place recently that I went to,” begins Spacht. “They were doing some work, and they had it fenced off. I had to scale down a cliff and climb the fence. It was pretty crazy. I did it at night, with a headlamp.” That might sound a bit Mission: Impossible, but I’m finding my first foraging trip very Zen—lots of staring, and crouching, and listening to the birds. We see turtles, snakes, frogs, and even a skink. (That’s a lizard, not your college roommate.) And then there are those magical moments when the morels materialize: the heart jumps, the mouth curls into a smile. The intensity of seek and discovery is intoxicating. I try to explain to Spacht how it makes me feel, but he already knows. “To spot something like that, there’s something about it,” he says. “It almost looks alien. I’ve been doing this a long time, and I still feel the same way.” ■

Casey Spacht leads us into the wild in search of morels

This is the first in a series of seasonal columns on local foraging. Spacht writes about his foraging efforts at lancasterfarmacy.blogspot.com.

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fair food and grid magazine present

Local Food Guide

PHILADELPHIA

2010-11

FARMERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MARKETS | CSA FARMS | RESTAURANTS | RETAILERS | INSTITUTIONS The definitive year-round guide to

eating, buying and dining local in the city of Philadelphia.

PHILADELPHIA 2010-11

Local Food Guide

From the Director

lex Mulcahy, publisher of Grid magazine,

approached me in December. “Grid wants to marry Fair Food,” he exclaimed. That was his not-so-subtle way of courting us to be their partner for the 2010 Philadelphia Local Food Guide. In your hands is the progeny of that fruitful union between a publication devoted to Philadelphia’s growth as a sustainable city and a nonprofit organization that supports our region’s sustainable agriculture. This guide is our baby—and we couldn’t be more proud. Fair Food’s mission is to bring healthy local food to the marketplace. For the past nine years, we have been connecting Philadelphians to fabulous farmers—and their wonderful products—while simultaneously connecting ► fa i r f ood sta f f pi cks

Ann Karlen – Director Eggs from Meadow Run Farm — These eggs have deep yellow-orange

yolks, viscous whites and an almost unbreakable membrane—all the signs of healthy soil and healthy animals. Oh, and they’re really delicious!

The Local Food Guide was produced by Grid Magazine, published by Red Flag Media, 1032 Arch Street, 3rd Floor, Philadelphia 19107.

Alex Mulcahy, Publisher alex@gridphilly.com Lee Stabert, Managing Editor lee@gridphilly.com Claire Connelly, Distribution Claire@gridphilly.com Jamie Leary, Art Director jamie@gridphilly.com Lucas Hardison, Production Artist lucas@gridphilly.com

Glossary What Do We Mean When We Say... Certified Organic To be labeled

organic in the United States, all fresh or processed foods must be produced according to the national organic standards and certified by an inspection agency accredited by the USDA. Organic farmers must use only approved materials that will not harm humans, animals or soil life. Chemical Free A farm that uses or-

ganic standards and methods but chooses not to be Certified Organic, for whatever reason. Conventional Agriculture This broad

category encompasses everything from IPM (see below) to heavy

The green flag icon signifies a business is a member of Fair Food.

staff picks

Throughout this guide, you’ll find Fair Food employees, starting with Ann above, singing the praises of their favorite local food products. All staff portraits taken by Albert Yee.

reliance on machinery and chemicals to raise crops and livestock.

those farmers to the ever-growing demand for a humane and sustainable food supply. At the Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market and through our programs and publications, Fair Food creates the links that keep family farms viable in this community. We celebrate the vital role agriculture plays in our personal health, local economy and environment. We are blessed to live in such a rich agricultural area, so close to working farms and beautiful rural landscapes. And our city is also fortunate to boast an entire community of folks committed to food issues. Nonprofits, independent businesses and organized groups of consumers are all working in concert to transform our current system into one that is more local, healthy, fair and affordable. Sitting in the middle of a growing social movement, it can seem as though victory is around the corner. But, we all know that there are still daunting issues to tackle, including the lack of food access in low-wealth communities and absent infrastructure for local food distribution. We must continue to plow ahead, working on innovative solutions for these complex problems. That said, we should still be proud, and take a minute to think of all we have accomplished here in Philadelphia, bringing the local, family farm back to our tables. This guide is a validation of that success, filled with restaurants, small businesses and institutions that are deeply invested in our local food economy. It is also a call to arms: Seek out these spots, choose local over global, strike up a conversation at a farmers’ market and inquire at neighborhood establishments about what they’re doing to source more locally and sustainably. And always remember, this fight is not only righteous, it’s delicious.

—ann k ar le n

crops, ornamentals and orchards, IPM includes methods such as using predatory insects to kill planteating pests, employing mechanical pest traps and using chemicals when necessary to avoid losing a crop. Many sustainable farms rely upon IPM as an alternative to heavy use of pesticides.

continuous and unconfined access to pasture throughout their lives.

Free-Range/Free-Roaming Animals raised in systems where they can move about in an unrestrained manner.

Hormone & Antibiotic Free Animals

Transitional to Organic To be Certi-

Grass-Fed Animals that have been

Locally Grown Farm products raised

Foodshed The term “foodshed” is similar to the concept of a watershed: While watersheds outline the flow of water supplying a particular area, foodsheds outline the flow of food feeding a particular area.

raised entirely on grass and are fed little-to-no grain. This term applies specifically to ruminant animals, such as cows, that are meant to eat grass. IPM (Integrated Pest Management)

A low-input approach to managing

that have been raised without the use of growth hormones or subtherapeutic antibiotics. within our regional foodshed, which we consider to be a radius of approximately 150-miles from Philadelphia. Pasture-Raised/Pastured Animals

that have never been confined to a feedlot or feeding floor, and have had

Sustainable Agriculture A holistic

method of agricultural production and distribution that strives to be ecologically sound, economically viable and socially responsible for present and future generations. fied Organic, it typically takes three years of using Certified Organic methods, after which there is an inspection and, if everything is in place, certification. Until that time, many farms use the term “transitional” to describe their growing method. Value-Added Products Farm prod-

ucts that have been processed in some way, such as jam, pickles and yogurt. cover photos by jason varney

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2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

PHILADELPHIA 2010-11

Local Food Guide

► fair fo o d s taff p ic ks

Deborah Bentzel – Farm to Institution Manager I love Keswick Creamery ricotta, whether it’s spread on toast with honey, incorporated into softly scrambled eggs, dolloped onto pizza, stirred into soups, served with ripe fruit or used to finish rice, pasta or polenta.

Urban and Suburban Farmstands Located on urban farms and in public markets, these stands sell 100 percent local products grown by family farmers throughout the region. Unless otherwise noted, these farmstands are open year-round.

Fair Food Farmstand farmstand@fairfoodphilly.org 215-627-2029, Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch Sts., Philadelphia Monday thru Saturday, 8 a.m. – 6 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.

The Fair Food Farmstand carries a wide variety of local products from organic and sustainable farms throughout Southeast Pennsylvania and Southern New Jersey. They emphasize local and artisanal food from small-scale producers, such as humanely raised meats, organic and specialty fruits and vegetables, raw milk, artisanal cheeses and more.

Greensgrow Nursey and Market greensgrow.org, info@greensgrow.org 215-427-2702, 2501 E. Cumberland St., Phila. Tuesday, Wednesday & Friday, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.; Starting May 27: Thursday, 9 a.m. – 7 p.m. Farmstand: May 27 – November 24: Thursday, 2 p.m. – 7 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

collectively run urban education farm, Mill Creek utilizes vacant land to improve local access to nutritious foods, promote sustainable resource use and demonstrate ecologically-sensitive methods of living.

Weavers Way Farmstand weaversway.coop 559 Carpenter Ln., Philadelphia Thursdays, 3 – 5 p.m.

Buying Clubs Buying clubs offer convenient access to fresh, delicious, locally-grown food, even in the winter months. They are also a great vehicle for building community through food. To start a buying club in your neighborhood, contact info@farmtocity.org.

4 Season Harvest (Lancaster Farm Fresh Cooperative) lancasterfarmfresh.com, 4seasonharvest@lancasterfarmfresh.com 717-656-3533

At their unique urban farm, Greensgrow Farms runs a nursery and farmstand. In the spring, they grow a wide variety of bedding plants, perennials, herbs and vegetable starters. Locally-grown produce, humanely-raised meat and eggs, cheeses and artisanal bread are sold seasonally at the market. They also invite other farmers/vendors to join them on market days.

Through an online pricelist, 4 Season Harvest Buying Club provides customers with value-added, Pennsylvania-made foods, pastured animal products and bulk organic foods from Lancaster Farm Fresh farmers. Buying club members order products weekly. A weekly delivery is made to a neighborhood pickup location, with almost 40 sites in the Philadelphia metro area.

Henry Got Crops

Meadow Run Farm Buying Club

Saul Agricultural High School 7100 Henry Ave., Philadelphia Wednesdays, 2:30 – 5:30 p.m.

farmtocity.org, meadowrunfarm@hotmail.com 717-733-4279

Hope Gardens at Stenton Family Manor 1300 E. Tulpehocken St., Philadelphia Every other Sunday; 1 – 3 p.m.

Kauffman’s Lancaster County Produce 215-592-1898, Reading Terminal Market, 12th and Arch Sts., Philadelphia Wednesday thru Saturday, 8 a.m. – 5 p.m.

This vendor specializes in seasonal, farm-fresh Lancaster County produce, jams, jellies and crafts.

Mill Creek Urban Farm and Farmstand millcreekurbanfarm.org 49th and Brown Sts., Philadelphia Late June – November: Saturday, 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Mill Creek grows a wide variety of produce, fruits and herbs for sale at their farmstand. A 4

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

www.fairfoodphilly.org

Meadow Run Farm offers pastured, humanelyraised, hormone and antibiotic-free beef, pork, lamb, chicken and turkey to its buying club members on a year-round basis. Applications and ordering can be done online at farmtocity.org. Orders are delivered monthly to host sites in West Chester, Mt. Airy, Wynnewood, Center City and West Philadelphia.

Mugshots Coffeehouse & Café mugshotscoffeehouse.com • Fairmount: 2100 Fairmount Ave, Philadelphia • Manayunk: 110 Cotton St., Philadelphia • Brewerytown: 2831 Girard Ave., Philadelphia

Mugshots is a fair trade café and local foodery, and their Buying Club allows customers to shop from the same farmers they do. Every week, members choose from locally-grown produce, dairy, meats and artisan bread, as well as local favorites such as Philly Fresh Pickles and the café’s homemade hummus.

SHARE Food Program sharefoodprogram.org, 215-223-2220

For 24 years, the SHARE food program has provided high-quality food packages to consumers in Philadelphia and surrounding areas at discounted rates. All consumers qualify for the SHARE packages (worth $40 to $45), which typically cost $20 plus two hours of community service. SHARE now offers Farm Fresh packages featuring fresh, local produce and meats sourced from area farms.

Winter Harvest farmtocity.org, info@farmtocity.org 215-733-9599

Winter Harvest is a web-based buying club featuring locally-produced food. It operates November through April—when most farmers’ markets and CSAs are out of season. Farm to City delivers orders weekly to over 30 sites in Philadelphia and the surrounding area. Order online from a list of over 500 items, including winter greens, root crops, meat and poultry, eggs, bread, dairy, herbs and preserves.

Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) is a mutually beneficial arrangement between community members and a local farmer. In exchange for payment in the spring, a CSA farm provides a “share” of produce and other farm products weekly during the growing season.

First Watch Farms firstwatchfarms.com, jonathaneinwechter@yahoo.com 717-419-7611, 584 Mumma Rd., Lititz

At First Watch Farms, they’re dedicated to producing naturally-grown, highly-nutritious, delicious produce and meat without the use of chemical sprays or fertilizers. As a CSA participant, you will receive a weekly share of fresh, vine-ripened, seasonal vegetables for a 22-week period, beginning in May and ending in October.

Greensgrow Farm greensgrow.org, info@greensgrow.org 215-427-2702, 2501 E. Cumberland St., Phila.

Greensgrow Farms’ innovative “City Supported Agriculture” program brings its shareholders the best the area has to offer, including Greensgrow’s own produce and local products such as bread, pastured eggs, butter, cheese, yogurt and naturally-raised meats. (There are vegetarian options as well.) Full and half shares available with a unique “vacation option.”

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Produce, Farmstand cheeses, Farm Fresh eggs, Just-Picked artisan breads, handmade chocolates

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iendly Products local specialities, Pastured Meats and Dairy, Diet-Fr and so much more!

900 North 4th st. Philadelphia, Pa 19123 215-625-6611 almanacmarket.com

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2521 christian st. Philadelphia, Pa 19146 215-259-toGo (8646) healthybitestogo.com

reading terminal Market, 12th st & arch st. Philadelphia, Pa 19107 (215) 627-2029 fairfoodphilly.org

4425 baltimore ave. Philadelphia, Pa 19104 215-387-6455 milkandhoneymarket.com

1610 south st. Philadelphia, Pa 19146 215-545-3924 pumpkinphilly.com

www.fairfoodphilly.org

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

PHILADELPHIA 2010-11

Local Food Guide

Hazon CSA

Pennypack Farm & Education Center

hazon.org, csakolami@gmail.com 215-635-7106, Congregation Kol Ami, 8201 High School Rd., Elkins Park

pennypackfarm.org 215-646-3943, 685 Mann Rd., Horsham

Affiliated with Hazon’s network of Jewish CSA communities, this program is open to all. During the growing season, members pick up fresh, affordable organic produce weekly at Kol Ami. By doing so they are supporting sustainable farming, helping to preserve local farmland and building community. The Hazon CSA program also offers opportunities to explore contemporary food issues from a Jewish perspective, promoting environmental awareness, healthy eating and sustainable living.

keystonefarmcsa.com, mail@keystonefarmcsa.com 570-247-2550, Rome

Since 1997, Keystone Farm has used organic, sustainable farming practices to raise small animals such as chickens, pigs and sheep while also growing fruits and vegetables. Featuring an emphasis on the highest quality goods, their CSA delivers the bounty of the farm to Philadelphia each weekend.

Lancaster Farm Fresh Cooperative lancasterfarmfresh.com csa@lancasterfarmfresh.com 717-656-3533

Lancaster Farm Fresh Cooperative is a nonprofit organic farmers’ cooperative, owned by over 75 member farmers in Lancaster County. Beginning in May, CSA members receive 25 weeks of freshlyharvested, certified organic produce. Grass-fed meat and dairy, Pennsylvania-made products and bulk foods are also available through 4 Season Harvest, a year-round buying club. LFFC also offers optional fruit and flower shares.

Landisdale Farm landisdalefarm.com, landisdalefarm@gmail.com 215-865-6220

Landisdale Farm is a family-owned and operated, certified organic farm that grows a variety of organic produce. Their season-long (June through October) CSA provides produce as well as some local fruit in full and medium shares. Price is by share size; shares can be picked up at several locations in Philadelphia.

fa i r f ood s ta f f pi cks ◄

Christina Dowd – Communications & Events I’m a Weaver’s Way Pickles girl—regular or hot. I’ll let you bring the cheese and beer to go with them.

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

Pennypack Farm & Education Center is a nonprofit educational organization dedicated to making local sustainable agriculture an important part of our community through farming, education and community events. Their CSA provides season-long shares of organicallygrown produce. Price is by share size (there are several options) and pick-up is weekly at the farm in Horsham. For event and educational program listings, visit the farm’s website.

These neighborhood markets keep customers well-fed throughout the year by stocking local, seasonal products from sustainable family farms.

Red Earth Farm

Almanac Market has been providing fresh, local and organic produce, meat and dairy to their neighbors in Northern Liberties for almost half a decade. Their expanded prepared foods section, cheese case and fresh bread (delivered daily) help bring the best of the region to your doorstep.

redearthfarm.org, redearthfarm@enter.net 570-943-3460

Keystone Farm

www.fairfoodphilly.org

Grocers, Retail Markets and Co-ops

Located in Schuylkill County, Red Earth Farm uses organic practices to produce its weekly CSA boxes. Members have the option to purchase full or partial shares, as well as optional fruit, yogurt, egg or herb shares. Members also have the option to use online selection for produce items. The farm offers several pickup locations around Philadelphia and two in Berks County.

Red Hill Farm CSA redhillfarm.org, redhillfarm@osfphila.org 610-558-6799, Aston

Red Hill Farm sits on 183 acres of woodlands and meadows in Aston, PA, owned by the Sisters of St. Francis of Philadelphia. CSA members pick up their share of fresh, organic produce once a week at the farm (located just west of Philadelphia). Red Hill Farm offers over 30 types of vegetables, a Children’s Garden and a wide array of U-Pick crops, including berries, cut flowers and herbs.

Almanac Market almanacmarket.com 215-625-6611, 900 N. 4th St., Philadelphia Monday, Tuesday, Friday, Saturday, 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.; Wednesday, Thursday, 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m. - sunset

Bryn Athyn Organic Produce Co-op baopcoop.org Bryn Athyn Church Elementary School, 600 Tomlinson Rd., Bryn Athyn Wednesdays, 4 – 6 p.m.

Essene Market & Café essenemarket.com 215-922-1146, 719 S. 4th St., Philadelphia Monday – Friday, 9 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday, 9 a.m. – 8 p.m.

For nearly 40 years, Essene Market & Café has provided the Philadelphia region with a unique venue for natural, organic and local foods. The market specializes in products for macrobiotic, vegan, vegetarian and raw diets.

Wimer’s Organics

Harvest Local Foods

farmtocity.org 215-733-9599

harvestlocalfoods.com 484-461-7884, 303 Windermere Ave., Lansdowne

This CSA is a collaboration between two farms in Lancaster County that have been producing standard-setting certified organic vegetables for almost 30 years. CSA members have the option to choose a spring/summer share, a fall share, or both; optional egg and flower shares—as well as special orders—are also available. The farms offer eight pickup locations in Philadelphia, as well as spots in Lancaster, Lebanon, Berks, Delaware and Montgomery counties.

Partners with over 30 local family farms and food artisans, Harvest Local Foods gives customers the opportunity to shop online yearround, choosing from their weekly selection of local and organic produce, meats, dairy, dry goods, homemade soups and entrees. They offer convenient door-to-door delivery or pickup at the market. They make eating local easy with no membership commitments or minimum ordering requirements.

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Annie Rojas — Grants Manager I love Maplehofe or Trickling Springs chocolate milk—both lovely in

their own ways.

Proudly “serving-up” the Local Food Guide since 2003 OUR PROGRAMS Fair Food Farmstand Farmer and Buyer Consultation Farm to Institution OUR cOnSUMeR cAMPAiGnS Buy Fresh Buy Local Heritage Breed Education Project OUR PUblicAtiOnS Philadelphia Local Food Guide The Wholesale Guide to Local Farm Products OUR eVentS Brewer’s Plate Farm Tour Series Local Grower Local Buyer

Fair Food is dedicated to bringing locally grown food to the marketplace & promoting a humane, sustainable agriculture system for the Greater Philadelphia region.

restaurant

•

bar

gently sophisticated open seven days brunch . lunch . dinner late night . catering private dining

306 market street 215 625 9425 forkrestaurant.com

www.fairfoodphilly.org

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

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Local Food Guide Herbiary

• Reading Terminal Market, 12th & Arch Sts., Philadelphia, 215-238-9938 • 7721 Germantown Ave., Philadelphia, 247-2110

Herbiary specializes in natural products that promote healthier living. They carry bulk herbs, teas, tinctures, essential oils, flower essences and supplements. All products are organic, wildcrafted or cultivated without chemicals. Classes and consultations are also available.

Green Aisle Grocery greenaislegrocery.com 215-465-1411, 1618 East Passyunk Ave. Monday – Thursday, 12 – 8 p.m.; Friday, 12 – 9 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Located on vibrant East Passyunk Avenue, Green Aisle is the grocery for life’s essentials— grass-fed milk, pastured eggs, heirloom produce, local bread—as well the luxuries that make life worth living: Stumptown coffee, Q Tonic, Zahav hummus and more.

Kimberton Whole Foods kimbertonwholefoods.com • 2140 Kimberton Rd., Kimberton, 610-935-1444 Monday - Friday, 8 a.m. - 8 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. - 6 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. • 1139 W. Ben Franklin Ct., Suite 106, Douglassville, 610-385-1588 • 150 E. Pennsylvania Ave., Downingtown, 610-873-8225 • 239 Durham Rd., Ottsville, 610-847-2419

Now boasting four locations, Kimberton Whole Foods has a mission to promote sustainable farming. They purchase from local farmers whenever possible and support organizations such as PASA (Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture). Their goal is to educate the community about the importance of keeping our dollars in the local economy.

Mariposa Co-op

This locavore corner store is open seven days a week. The shelves are stocked with beloved, locally-produced items, from fresh raw ingredients and prepared foods to artisanal cheeses and sweet treats. Milk & Honey carries local dairy, produce and sustainably-raised meats, alongside Italian Market specialties and Philly favorites.

Pumpkin Market

pumpkinphilly.com 215-545-3924, 1610 South St., Philadelphia Tuesday – Sunday, 7 a.m. – 9 p.m.

Owners Ian Moroney and Hillary Bor have a commitment to showcasing all the wonderful products of our region. Pumpkin Market features seasonal produce, meat, dairy, cheese, ice cream, in-house baked goods, prepared foods, specialty items, coffee roasted in-house and more. The market also boasts a full coffee bar for your on-the-go caffeine fix.

Reading Terminal Market readingterminalmarket.org 215-922-2317, 12th & Arch Sts., Philadelphia Monday – Saturday, 8 a.m. – 6 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.

One of America’s largest and oldest public markets, the historic Reading Terminal Market houses more than 75 local, independent retailers offering fresh produce, meats, seafood, poultry, Amish specialties and ethnic foods, plus the widest variety of eateries under one roof in the city. New in 2010: RTM will host a weekly outdoor farmers’ market with more than a dozen local growers and producers: Sundays, 9 a.m. - 1 p.m., May through November.

Selene Whole Foods Co-op selenecoop.org 610-566-1137, 305 W. State St., Media Monday & Wednesday, noon – 6 p.m.; Thursday, 10:30 a.m. – 6 p.m.; Friday, 10 a.m. – 7 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.; Closed Tuesdays & Sundays

mariposa.coop 215-729-2121, 4726 Baltimore Ave., Philadelphia Monday – Thursday, noon – 9 p.m.; Friday – Sunday, 11 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Sue’s Produce Market

West Philadelphia’s Mariposa is a member-owned food co-op operating since 1971. They carry a variety of locally-grown and produced goods, organic foods and specialty items. Everyone is welcome to join. Visit the website for information on the co-op’s upcoming expansion.

swarthmore.coop 610-543-9805, 341 Dartmouth Ave., Swarthmore Monday – Saturday, 8 a.m. – 8 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m. – 7 p.m.

215-241-0102, 114 S. 18th St., Philadelphia

Swarthmore Co-op

Swarthmore Co-op is a member-owned, full-service food market open to everyone. The Co-op

is committed to the local community of growers and producers.

The Coopermarket coopermarket.com 610-664-2252, 302 Levering Mill Rd., Bala Cynwyd

Weavers Way Co-op weaversway.coop • Mt. Airy: 559 Carpenter Ln., Philadelphia, 215-843-2350; Daily, 9 a.m. - 8 p.m. • Ogontz: 2129 72nd Ave., Philadelphia Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. • Chestnut Hill: 8422 Germantown Ave., Philadelphia; Coming Soon!

A member-owned food cooperative with 3,700 member households, a non-profit educational arm and an urban farming operation, Weaver’s Way has locations in West Mt. Airy, West Oak Lane and Chestnut Hill. Their stores provide a friendly shopping environment and feature products that are local, sustainable and healthy. Shopping and membership are open to the public.

Whole Foods Market wholefoodsmarket.com • 929 South St., Philadelphia, 215-733-9788 Daily, 8 a.m. – 10 p.m. • 2001 Pennsylvania Ave., Phila., 215-557-0015 Daily, 8 a.m. – 10 p.m.

Whole Foods Market is the nation’s leading retailer of natural and organic foods. The company is committed to buying from high-quality local producers, particularly those who farm organically and are dedicated to environmentallyfriendly, sustainable agriculture. Buying local helps the retailer stay connected to the natural cycle of the seasons, unique regional varieties and the people who grow our food. Whole Foods Market has eight locations in and around the Philadelphia area; visit the website to find the store nearest to you.

Cafés and Coffee Shops Philadelphians get their buzz on at these local favorites featuring fair trade beans (often locally-roasted) and simple, lovinglyprepared food.

Gold Standard Cafe thegoldstandardcafe.com 215-727-8247, 4800 Baltimore Ave., Philadelphia

Martindale’s Natural Market martindalesnutrition.com 610-543-6811, 1172 Baltimore Pk., Springfield Monday – Friday, 8 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. – 9 p.m.; closed Sundays

Martindale’s philosophy revolves around benefiting their staff, customers, community and the planet.

Milk & Honey Market milkandhoneymarket.com 215-387-6455, 4425 Baltimore Ave., Philadelphia Daily, 8 a.m. – 8 p.m. 8

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Federico Santoyo – Farmstand Staff There is really too much at the Fair Food Farmstand to pick just one—especially for a foodie like me. Plus, I like eating according to what the season brings. When it comes to meat, I would say: bacon, bacon, bacon! And also Giant Flemish Rabbit, both from Green Meadow Farm.

Local Late Night Snacks

Green Line Cafe

Just because the hour is late, doesn’t mean local eats are off the menu. Check out these spots for after-hours chow. ◄

Honey whiskey chicken wings from Pub & Kitchen.

Standard Tap 901 N. 2nd St., 215-238-0630

Pub & Kitchen 1946 Lombard St., 215-545-0350

A gastropub of the highest order, this signless spot at the corner of 20th and Lombard keeps their kitchen open late. It’s worth the trip for the wings alone—made with Eberly Farms (Lancaster County) chickens, these little suckers pack a big punch. Eschew the traditional buffalo for the out-of-this-world “honey whiskey” version. Pub & Kitchen also serves a small slate of ever-rotating bar snacks—deviled eggs, chicken liver on toast with a Kir-marinated cherry, welsh rarebit with goat cheese and raw honey—a standout burger and the best fish and chips in the city. The menu features lighter fare as well, including seasonal salads, steamed mussels and raw oysters.

Monk’s Belgian Café 264 S. 16th St., 215-545-7005

If you’re talking mussels in Philadelphia, you’re probably talking Monk’s. This Belgian café serves up eight varieties of their signatures mollusks until 1 a.m. nightly, pairing them with crispy frites (made with locally-grown potatoes) and their beloved bourbon mayo dipping sauce. You can also enjoy an organic grass-fed sirloin, oven-roasted local, free-range chicken, or a burger topped with caramelized leeks and blue cheese. But don’t let the soul-satisfying food distract you from their bottled beer list—it’s so extensive and thoughtful that it could pass for a novella. Monk’s also features a rotating selection of draft brews, including their tongue-tickling Flemish Sour Ale.

photo by jason varney

A Northern Liberties stalwart, Standard Tap—and its Fishtown cousin Johnny Brenda’s—offer selections from their everchanging chalkboard menu long past the dinner hour. Perfect when paired with the all-local draft beer selection, the food is simple, rich and lovingly prepared. Check out the addictive duck confit salad, fried smelts or the pulled pork sandwich, made with meat from Country Time Farm in Berks County. (In a true showing of locavore love, Standard Tap sends their stale buns back to the farm; the pigs apparently love ’em.) Alongside the burgers, pot pies and slow-cooked meats is a rotating offering of seasonal vegetables. How long ’til Brussels sprouts season (served with bacon and lemon) comes around again?

South Philadelphia Tap Room 1509 Mifflin St., 215-271-7787

It might be a bit off the beaten path, but the South Philadelphia Tap Room is worth it just for this locavore carnivore dream: a local, grass-fed burger topped with beerbraised bacon, Lancaster smoked cheddar, red onion and Sly Fox beer mustard. The SPTR serves up plenty of other twists on classic fare—tomato lager soup with grilled cheese, grilled calamari served with local potatoes, baby spinach, herbs and lemon, asparagus and strawberry salad with goat cheese and rib-eye cheesesteak sliders. Wash down your late-night snack with a draft brew from local favorites such as Philadelphia Brewing Company, Stoudt’s and Weyerbacher.

greenlinecafe.com • 4239 Baltimore Ave., Phila., 215-222-3431 • 3649 Lancaster Ave., Phila., 215-382-2143 • 4426 Locust St., Philadelphia, 215-222-0799

West Philly’s neighborhood stop for fair trade coffee, culture and conversation, Green Line features fine coffees and teas, fresh bagels and pastries and healthy grab-n-go snacks made inhouse. The café also hosts a full slate of music, poetry and art events.

Healthy Bites ToGo healthybitesdelivery.com 877-667-6495, 2521 Christian St., Philadelphia

Owned by certified nutritionist Katie CavutoBoyle, Healthy Bites ToGo is a locally-sourced market and café that also offers nutrition and culinary services. These include an organic meal delivery service (“Best of Philly 2009”), catering and cooking classes, all with a focus on green cuisine—food that is healthy for your body and the planet.

High Point Café Espresso Bar & Pastry Shops highpointcafe.us.com • 602 Carpenter Ln., Philadelphia, 215-849-5153 • Allens Lane Train Station, 7210 Cresheim Rd., Philadelphia, 215-248-1900

Located in beautiful West Mt. Airy, the two High Point Café locations are great neighborhood meeting spots, specializing in seasonal handmade pastries and desserts, made-toorder crepes and expertly prepared espresso.

Mugshots Coffeehouse & Café mugshotscoffeehouse.com • Fairmount: 2100 Fairmount Ave., Philadelphia • Manayunk: 110 Cotton St., Philadelphia • Brewerytown: 2831 Girard Ave., Philadelphia

Winner of the Sustainable Business Network’s Triple Bottom Line award, Mugshots is a sociallyconscious café serving fair trade drinks and locally-grown food including homemade pastries, soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts. Mugshots was also named “Best of Philly” by Philadelphia Magazine and voted the City’s Best Coffeehouse by AOL City Guide.

Dock Street Brewing Co.

Picnic

701 S. 50th St., 215-726-2337

picniceats.com (215) 222-1605, 3131 Walnut St., Philadelphia

If you find yourself in West Philadelphia with a grumbling in your stomach, head over to Dock Street Brewing Co., a neighborhood favorite. On Friday and Saturday night, this brewpub serves up brick oven pizzas and rotisserie chicken until 1 a.m. Their beef comes from Montgomery County, while their chickens hail from Lancaster; all the meat is organic and sustainably raised. Local produce goes into fresh, simple salads and tops pizzas in creative combinations such as crème fraiche with spinach and leeks or portobello mushrooms with gorgonzola. Pair your pie with one of their signature beers or a seasonal favorite—all brewed on-site.

Picnic offers catering as well as a wide variety of fresh breakfast items, soups, salads and madeto-order sandwiches.

Old City Coffee oldcitycoffee.com • 221 Church St., Philadelphia, 215-629-9292 • Reading Terminal Market (two locations), 12th and Arch Sts.

Pumpkin Café

pumpkinphilly.com 215-545-1173, 1609 South St., Philadelphia

Ian Moroney and Hillary Bor’s café emphasizes local food with a menu featuring sandwiches, salads, soups, chili, all-day breakfast, fresh juices, smoothies, baked goods and fair trade, www.fairfoodphilly.org

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organic coffee, roasted in-house. Everything at Pumpkin Café is made fresh daily, and free WiFi is also available.

cheeses. Betty’s also specializes in excellent, locally-roasted coffee, fudge and cupcakes. In addition, the café serves as a weekly pick-up location for Highland Orchards’ CSA.

Bindi bindibyob.com 215-922-6061, 105 S. 13th St., Philadelphia

Ultimo Coffee ultimocoffee.com 215-339-5177, 1900 S. 15th St., Philadelphia

Committed to serving the highest-quality coffee, tea and locally-sourced food, Ultimo boasts a seasonal menu of Direct Trade certified coffees from Counter Culture Coffee, Four Worlds Bakery pastries and bagels, vegetarian sandwiches and other sweets. A huge selection of microbrews from BREW is now available for takeout in the same space.

Restaurants Philadelphia is truly a dining destination, whether you’re looking for a casual pub meal or sophistication worthy of a special occasion. The following restaurants have all shown a commitment to sourcing locally and sustainably.

Chef Marcie Turney puts a modern twist on regional Indian cuisine, highlighting seasonal, local ingredients.

Bistro 7 bistro7restaurant.com 215-931-1560, 7 N. 3rd St., Philadelphia

Café Estelle cafeestelle.com 215-925-5080, 444 N. 4th St., Philadelphia

Serving 100 percent handcrafted food, Café Estelle uses only the best ingredients to produce inspired breakfast, lunch and “Best of Philly 2009” brunch. With an emphasis on local and seasonal foods, their ever-changing specials offer a taste of the day all year round.

Cake

Garces Trading Company garcestradingcompany.com 215-574-1099, 1111 Locust St., Philadelphia

Open seven days a week, this multi-purpose space features a host of house-made and imported foods under the Garces Trading Company label, as well as Chef Garces’ award-winning cuisine, available for eat-in or take-out. Garces Trading Company is the city’s only all-in-one culinary destination.

Geechee Girl Rice Café geecheegirlricecafe.com 215-843-8113, 6825 Germantown Ave., Phila.

A small, sunlit neighborhood BYO with an innovative, seasonally-inspired menu, Geechee Girl Rice Café emphasizes hand-crafted American southern food. Menu highlights include the “World’s Best” fried chicken (served Wednesdays during the summer), chicken and waffles at Sunday brunch and specialty mac-and-cheese at Sunday supper.

Honey’s Sit ‘n Eat honeys-restaurant.com 215-925-1150, 800 N. 4th St., Philadelphia

Amis

Chloe

amisphilly.com 215-732-2647, 412 South 13th St., Philadelphia

chloebyob.com 215-627-2337, 232 Arch St., Philadelphia

Honey’s offers casual family dining in a rustic, cozy atmosphere. All their eggs, bacon, yogurt and bread—plus most of their meats, cheeses and produce—are locally grown, sown, raised, butchered and bought. Breakfast is served all day, alongside ever-evolving lunch and dinner specials. BYOB.

Derek’s

Jack’s Firehouse Restaurant

dereksrestaurant.com 215-483-9400, 4411 Main St., Philadelphia

jacksfirehouse.com 215-232-9000, 2130 Fairmount Ave., Philadelphia

Farmicia Food & Tonics

JAMES Restaurant

farmiciarestaurant.com 215-627-6274, 15 S. 3rd St., Philadelphia

jameson8th.com 215-629-4980, 824 S. 8th St., Philadelphia

Farmicia captures the simple pleasures of well-crafted food, served in a relaxed atmosphere. This neighborhood favorite showcases farm fresh fare, with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients from local growers.

JAMES is a family-run fine dining restaurant serving modern American cuisine in a sophisticated and friendly environment. They are committed to seasonal cooking and the future of sustainable agriculture.

Fork Restaurant & Fork Etc.

Johnny Brenda’s

forkrestaurant.com 215-625-9425, 306-308 Market St., Philadelphia

johnnybrendas.com 215-739-9684, 1201 Frankford Ave., Philadelphia

Fork continues to set the standard for New American, bistro-style cuisine with their seasonal, inventive food. Next door, Fork Etc. serves up breakfast, lunch, dinner, house-made prepared foods, fresh-baked bread and pastries.

Johnny Brenda’s is a neighborhood tavern featuring great beer and wholesome food. Their chalkboard menu boasts favorites such as smelts, duck confit salad and chicken pie, as well as seasonally-available fish, game and produce.

Amis—which means “friends” in the Italian Bergamasque dialect—serves up small, simple dishes featuring clean, vibrant flavors. This is old school cooking at its best—the kind of cooking that makes people feel good.

Bar Ferdinand barferdinand.com 215-923-1313 1030 N. 2nd St., Philadelphia

Barbuzzo barbuzzo.com 215-546-9300, 110 South 13th St., Philadelphia

A Mediterranean wine bar from Chef Marcie Turney, Barbuzzo’s menu of rustic food features handmade pasta, wood oven-roasted vegetables, classic thin crust Neopolitan pizzas and housemade charcuterie.

Beau Monde creperie-beaumonde.com 215-592-0656, 624 South 6th St., Philadelphia

An authentic Breton creperie, Beau Monde prepares savory and sweet crepes with ingredients that range from hearty stews and seafood to compotes and fresh local fruit. The cozy elegance, handcrafted gilded interior and stylish outdoor deck complement the creativity of a kitchen that constantly strives to bring farm to table.

Betty’s Speakeasy bettysfudge.com 215-735-9060, 2241 Gray’s Ferry Ave. No. 1, Phila.

Betty’s Speakeasy is a community-oriented café featuring daily lunch specials made with seasonal produce, local meats and artisan 10

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

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cakeofchestnuthill.com 215-247-6887, 8501 Germantown Ave., Phila.

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Albert Yee – Farmstand Staff Weaver’s Way Hot Pickles are the best! I grew up in New York with more Jewish delis than I can remember producing pickles by the barrel—so that’s saying something. There’s an added bonus: You can reuse the juice to make more pickles (it takes two to three weeks), so they’re a treat that keeps on giving.

Dear locavores and beEr-a-vores, hi .

chew on t s You can get your feast on at my Many delicioso restaurants, gastropubs and farmers â&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets throughout the region. Hungry and/or thirsty for more? Find out whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brewing at . off your food coma l at one of my comfy hote s !

P.S . Sleep

www.fairfoodphilly.org

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Local Food Guide

Complementing these items is a draft-only beer selection highlighting over 20 locally-brewed beers, plus two cask-conditioned brews on handpump; wine and a full bar are also available.

Koo Zee Doo koozeedoo.com 215-923-8080, 614 N. 2nd St., Philadelphia

From the inviting décor (much of it done with reclaimed materials) to the perfectly-prepared menu featuring simple dishes crafted with seasonal and local ingredients, this Center City spot is a beacon of warmth and fine cookery.

Osteria osteriaphilly.com 215-763-0920, 640 North Broad St., Philadelphia

Lolita

A traditional Italian osteria offering homemade pastas, thin crust pizzas and wood-grilled meats and fish, this Marc Vetri venture is classically designed, inspiring a warm feeling in an industrial setting. The menu changes seasonally and the wine list features over 100 varieties of Italian wine.

lolitabyob.com 215-546-7100, 106 S. 13th St., Philadelphia

Oyster House

Lacroix Restaurant lacroixrestaurant.com 215-790-2533, 210 West Rittenhouse Sq., Phila.

Chef Marcie Turney’s modern Mexican BYOB incorporates local produce into its seasonal menu and award-winning margarita mixes.

London Grill & London Next Door londongrill.com 215-978-4545, 2301 Fairmount Ave., Philadelphia

oysterhousephilly.com 215-567-7683, 1516 Sansom St., Philadelphia

South Philly Tap Room southphiladelphiataproom.com 215-271-7787, 1509 Mifflin St., Philadelphia

SPTR is a neighborhood gastropub featuring 14 taps devoted to delicious microbrews and a gourmet pub menu. All their meats are antibiotic and growth hormone-free, their fish is sustainable and they source locally-raised and produced ingredients whenever possible. Their ever-rotating taps specialize in local favorites and notable brews.

Spring Mill Café springmill.com 610-828-2550, 164 Barren Hill Rd., Whitemarsh

Standard Tap standardtap.com 215-238-0630, 901 N. 2nd St., Philadelphia

paulphilly.com 215-238-0210, 1120 Pine St., Philadelphia

Standard Tap is a Northern Liberties favorite featuring great beer and wholesome food. Their chalkboard menu boasts favorites such as smelts, duck confit salad and chicken pie, as well as seasonally-available fish, game and produce. Complementing these items is a draft-only beer selection highlighting over 20 locally-brewed beers, plus two cask-conditioned brews on handpump; wine and a full bar are also available.

Pumpkin BYOB

Supper

Specializing in updated classics served in a simple, modern setting, Oyster House is Philadelphia’s premiere oyster bar and seafood restaurant.

A landmark Philadelphia restaurant and bar serving New American bistro fare, London Grill is open for lunch, brunch, dinner and late night; groups welcome.

Paul

Matyson Restaurant

pumpkinphilly.com 215-545-4448, 1713 South St., Philadelphia

supperphilly.com 215-592-8180, 926 South St., Philadelphia

Ian Moroney and Hillary Bor run this cozy BYOB featuring a daily-changing seasonal menu that utilizes the finest local ingredients available. The food is simple and elegantly prepared, allowing the ingredients to shine. Sunday evenings feature a $35 five-course tasting menu.

Supper is a “Best of Philly” Top 50 Restaurant and a “3 Bell” winner situated in the heart of the Bella Vista neighborhood. Chef Mitch Prensky offers up seasonal modern American cuisine in a beautiful urban farmhouse setting. Whenever possible, Supper utilizes local products from artisan growers and producers.

matyson.com 215-564-2925, 37 S. 19th St., Philadelphia

Memphis Taproom memphistaproom.com 215-425-4460, 2331 E. Cumberland St., Phila.

Mid-Atlantic Restaurant midatlanticrestaurant.com 215-386-3711, 3711 Market St., Philadelphia

Monk’s Café monkscafe.com 215-545-7005, 264 S. 16th St., Philadelphia

A casual, affordable neighborhood bistro inspired by cozy Belgian brasseries, Monk’s Café uses local, organic produce and meats whenever possible. The Philly mainstay also has an environmental ethos, recycling everything—including their fryer oil; a local farmer uses it to heat his greenhouse— and relying on wind power. Their legendary beer list features over 200 options, perfect paired with their famous mussels. The full menu is served until 1 a.m. nightly.

Mugshots Coffeehouse & Café mugshotscoffeehouse.com • Fairmount: 2100 Fairmount Ave, Philadelphia • Manayunk: 110 Cotton St., Philadelphia • Brewerytown: 2831 Girard Ave., Philadelphia

See description on page 9.

Noble American Cookery noblecookery.com 215-568-7000, 2025 Sansom St., Philadelphia

Noble’s mission is to make you feel at home while creating a truly special dining experience.

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Rx caferx.com 215-222-9590, 4443 Spruce St., Philadelphia

Talula’s Table

Simon Pearce

Talula’s Table is a highly acclaimed gourmet market, bakery, cheese shop and restaurant. The shop is filled with housemade pastries, breads, amazing artisan cheeses, creative prepared foods and delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner offerings. Talula’s also does beautiful catering and private “farm table” and “chef’s table” tasting menus nightly. Reservations must be made up to a year in advance; this is a true food lover’s destination.

simonpearce.com 610-793-0947, 1333 Lenape Rd., West Chester

Southwark Restaurant & Bar southwarkrestaurant.com 215-238-1888, 701 S. 4th St., Philadelphia

Southwark uses ingredients from local farmers and co-ops to craft one of the freshest and most dynamic menus in the Philadelphia region. They offer guests a high-quality dining experience while working to support the local economy and striving to set the standard in farm-to-plate cuisine.

talulastable.com 610-444-8255,102 W. State St., Kennett Square

The Abbaye 215-627-6711, 637 N. 3rd St., Philadelphia

The Abbaye is a warm, casual Belgian pub and

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Colleen Normile – Farmstand Staff Pink Lady apples are the best—they’re simultaneously sweet and tart, and always impeccably crisp. It’s really the perfect apple, and helps get me through winter. I also love Vrapple: so meaty, so spicy, so vegan. A perfect breakfast!

Locally Made Goodies Since 1987

Visit us in the Reading Terminal Market Or Online At pageneralstore.com

WE P! I SH

Would you like a side of greens with that building?

Re:Vision Architecture.

Reduce. Reuse. Recycle. Re:Vision.

Our Green Designers and Sustainability Consultants are fueled by local food. Enjoy our work as you shop locally, eat locally, and grow locally.

ReVisionArch.com

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Local Food Guide

► fair fo o d s taff p ic ks

Emily Gunther – Farmstand Product Manager & Farm-to-Market Liaison Beechwood Orchards’ nectarines and peaches are summer in my mouth. And my face. And my hands. And my… well, you get the idea.

restaurant serving Belgian beers and microbrews from around the world. The Northern Liberties favorite also features an eclectic menu, offering everything from Southern home cooking to classic bistro and pub fare. Enjoy happy hour, 4 – 6 p.m. Monday through Friday.

Xochitl

The Belgian Cafe

xochitlphilly.com 215-238-7280, 408 S. 2nd St., Philadelphia

thebelgiancafe.com 215-235-3500, 21st & Green Sts., Philadelphia

Zahav

A comfortable neighborhood destination, the Belgian Café features an extensive international bottled beer list and over a dozen fresh, full-flavored beers on tap. Their menu includes many vegetarian and vegan-friendly dishes.

The Foodery fooderybeer.com 215-238-6077, 847 N. 2nd St., Philadelphia

The Foodery carries great beers from around the world—alongside beloved local brews—by the bottle or six pack. Pair them with a sandwich or snack from their gourmet deli. Visit their website for information on free beer tastings.

Tria Cafe triacafe.com • 123 S. 18th St., Philadelphia, 215-972-8742 • 1137 Spruce St., Philadelphia, 215-629-9200

Vetri vetriristorante.com 215-732-3478, 1312 Spruce St., Philadelphia

Vetri has built a reputation as Philadelphia’s premier authentic Italian dining experience. Servers attend to each diner with exceptional care in a calm, refined atmosphere. “People come to Vetri to be transported,” says co-owner Jeff Benjamin, “to forget the worries of the day, and to lose themselves in a tranquil evening of fine Italian food and wine.”

White Dog Cafe whitedog.com 215-386-9224, 3420 Sansom St., Philadelphia

Located in three adjacent Victorian brownstones in the University City section of Philadelphia, the White Dog Cafe is a local favorite known for its unique blend of award-winning contemporary American cuisine, civic engagement and environmental sustainability. Its menu emphasizes high-quality, locally-grown and humanely-raised ingredients from farms that pasture feed livestock and practice sustainable farming methods.

zahavrestaurant.com 215-625-8800, 237 Saint James Pl., Philadelphia

Zavino zavino.com 215-732-2400, 112 S. 13th St., Philadelphia

Specialty Stores Who knew Philadelphia was the land of milk and honey? We’ve got gelato and ice cream made with local milk and chocolates made with honey from nearby hives. And how about some local cheese with that Pennsylvania wine?

Betty’s Speakeasy bettysfudge.com 215-735-9060, 2241 Gray’s Ferry Ave. No. 1, Philadelphia

This favorite in the Graduate Hospital neighborhood features artisan confections, baked goods and other fine edibles made with local, organic and fair trade ingredients.

Capogiro Gelato capogirogelato.com • Midtown Village: 119 S. 13th St., Philadelphia, 215-351-0900 • Rittenhouse Square: 117 S. 20th St., Philadelphia, 215-636-9250 • University City: 3925 Walnut St., Philadelphia, 215-222-0252 • Passyunk Scoop Shop: 1625 E. Passyunk Ave., Philadelphia, 215-462-3790

This family-owned and operated gelateria serves up authentic Italian artisan gelato. Capogiro’s products are made with farm fresh local milk from grass-fed, hormone-free cows and handpicked produce, including blackberries, Asian pears and quince.

Di Bruno Brothers dibruno.com

► fai r food staff pi cks

Nate Hopkins – Volunteer Coordinator My favorite thing at the Farmstand is the Toma Primavera cheese from Cherry Grove Farm. It’s super creamy, a little tangy and tastes even better when it’s melted into eggs.

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

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• Center City: 1730 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, 215-665-9220 • Italian Market: 930 S. 9th St., Philadelphia, 215-922-2876 • Comcast Center: 1701 JFK Blvd., Philadelphia, 215-531-5666

The Center City Di Bruno Bros. location is a gourmet superstore, featuring cheese, meat and fish counters and prepared foods. The new Upstairs at Di Bruno’s offers daily lunch and weekend brunch café service.

Marcie Blaine Artisanal Chocolates verdephiladelphia.com 215-546-8700, 108 S. 13th St., Philadelphia

Chef Marcie Turney crafts artisanal chocolates in her open chocolate studio, using ingredients from local and family farms.

Metropolitan Bakery metropolitanbakery.com • Rittenhouse Square: 262 S. 19th St., Philadelphia, 215-545-6655 • Reading Terminal Market: 12th and Arch Sts., 215-829-9020 • Chestnut Hill: 8607 Germantown Ave., Philadelphia, 215-753-9001 • West Philadelphia: 4013 Walnut St., Philadelphia, 215-222-1492

An artisan bread bakery specializing in handmade rustic breads and pastry, Metropolitan also offers an array of locally-produced products, including cheese, yogurt, pasta, fair trade coffee and premium teas. In addition, they support area farms by serving as a pick-up spot for CSAs and Farm-to-City.

Night Kitchen Bakery nightkitchenbakery.com 215-248-9235, 7725 Germantown Ave., Phila.

An independently-owned retail bakery in the Chestnut Hill section of Philadelphia, Night Kitchen specializes in cakes, cookies, tarts and pies, made using old world recipes and local ingredients when available. The bakery has been certified by the Green Restaurant Association and is a proud member of the Sustainable Business Network.

Pennsylvania General Store pageneralstore.com 800-554-4891, Reading Terminal Market, 12th & Arch Sts., Philadelphia

The Franklin Fountain franklinfountain.com 215-627-1899, 116 Market St., Philadelphia

The Franklin Fountain serves homemade ice creams, spectacular sundaes and fizzy fountain concoctions in the authentic atmosphere of an early-1900s soda fountain.

Caterers and Food Service Providers These caterers and food service providers think outside the box by providing delicous, fresh and locallysourced food at functions—whether it’s lunch in a cafeteria or a formal gala.

Cosmic Catering cosmicfoods.com 215-753-1991, 8229 Germantown Ave., Phila.

Cosmic Catering is a family-owned business that has been committed to preparing locally-produced, farm fresh food since 2001. Cosmic also takes pride in presentation, and uses only earthfriendly dinnerware and packaging. Whether you’re holding a small business luncheon or planning a wedding, consider the planet by considering Cosmic Catering.

Best Eat Local Brunches When the weekend arrives, Philadelphians descend on the city’s best brunch eateries. Here are a few of our favorites—they’re serving up hearty mid-day fare featuring seasonal produce, Supper sustainable meat 928 South St., 215-592-8180 If you’re looking for something sustainable and dairy, pastured eggs and near South Street to sate your morning huna commitment to making ger, look no further than Supper. Chef Mitch Prensky is doing everything from scratch— things from scratch. Café Estelle 444 N. 4th St., 215-925-5080

Tucked away in a strange little section of the city, on the ground floor of a condo building, Café Estelle didn’t stay a hidden gem for long. Chef Marshall Green named the BYOB eatery after his late grandmother, and he’s honoring her legacy with locally-sourced, handcrafted food. His menu features organic vegetables from nearby farms, farm fresh eggs, local cheese and pastured meats. Charcuterie and fish are cured and smoked in-house. Try his legendary shirred eggs (slow-cooked with spinach, mushrooms and truffle oil) or the sweet-savory magic of pork sausagestuffed French toast.

Honey’s Sit ’N Eat 800 N. 4th St., 215-925-1150

Honey’s is where the Jewish deli meets the world. You can start your meal with potato latkes (served with homemade applesauce), and finish with their excellent enfrijoladas—flour tortillas filled with free range Lancaster County eggs and topped with salsa verde, queso fresco, slivered radishes and fresh greens. Everything at this Northern Liberties BYOB favorite is made in-house, down to the mayonnaise in their whitefish salad. Honey’s also serves a host of vegetarian options, from veggie sausage to veggie burgers to killer fried green tomatoes. Get there early to score a table! photos by jamie leary

Feast Your Eyes Catering fyecatering.com 215-923-9449, 914 N. 2nd St., Philadelphia

Love Your Fruits & Vegetables LLC. aka LYFVE lyfve.com; preschoolcooks.com 877-445-6051, PO Box 462, Bala Cynwyd

pickles made from local produce, scrapplefried country pâté and sausages (country and chorizo). He’s also topping cornmeal pancakes with local maple syrup and serving a rotating selection of seasonal fruit.

LYFVE is a nationally-accredited green company with a mission to teach kids to cook and eat healthily. Since 2006, LYFVE has served up “no-cook” and hands-on cooking workshops to over 5000 children. LYFVE organizes green, nowaste birthday parties, summercamps and field trips, while also crafting innovative and healthy snacks for schools, homes and businesses.

Green Eggs Café

Mugshots Coffeehouse & Café

1306 Dickinson St., 215-226-3447

mugshotscoffeehouse.com • Fairmount: 2100 Fairmount Ave., Philadelphia • Manayunk: 110 Cotton St., Philadelphia • Brewerytown: 2831 Girard Ave., Philadelphia

South Philly has been a brunch Mecca for years—Sabrina’s and Morning Glory continue to pack in patrons week after week. Now there’s a newcomer: Green Eggs Café emphasizes local products and environmentally-friendly practices including composting and recycling. They serve up Philly favorites, such as pork roll and scrapple, and creative twists on the classics, including peanut butter-stuffed French toast and Philly-Style Eggs Benedict, served on a pretzel roll.

Southwark 701 S. 4th St., 215-238-1888

Queen Village favorite Southwark is known around town for their commitment to crafting creative dishes out of outstanding local products. Their brunch is no exception— they’re filling their omelettes with seasonal produce, baking Shellbark Hollow goat cheese from Chester County with herbs and parmesan and shirring a goose egg with wild mushrooms and dandelion cream. The old classic creamed chipped beef also earns an update, served on English muffins with farm fresh sunny side up eggs.

Mugshots is a fair trade coffeehouse and local foodery offering sustainable catering services, using biodegradable/compostable disposables. They specialize in party trays featuring homemade sweet and savory muffins, baguette and wrap platters and cocktail-inspired cupcakes. To order online, visit the website and click on “Catering.”

Sustainable Fare/ The Lawrenceville School sustainablefare.com 609-620-6143, PO Box 543, Island Heights, NJ

Founded in 2007 as an independently-operated, environmentally-responsible food service and consulting company, Sustainable Fare focuses on integrated sustainable food systems designed for food service institutions. Sustainable Fare’s emphasis is on locally grown foods and seasonal menus, prepared with fresh, unprocessed ingredients.

www.fairfoodphilly.org

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

PHILADELPHIA

Chestnut Hill Growers’ Market Winston Rd. at Germantown Ave. Sat: 9:30am – 1:30pm Open until Thanksgiving

2010-11

Local Food Guide

farmers’ markets Manayunk Farmers’ Market Canal View Park, on Main St. (near Gay) Sat: 10 am – 2 pm May – November

Mt. Airy Farmers’ Market Germantown Ave. at Allens Lane Tues: 3 – 7pm May 25 – Thanksgiving

Germantown Farmers’ Market Germantown Ave. & Walnut Lane Fri: 2pm – 6pm Opens May 28

Overbrook Farmers’ Market 63rd between Sherwood & Overbrook Sat: 9am – 1pm Opens May 29 Girard & 27th Farm Market Girard & 27th Street Wed: 10am – 1pm Open until October

Haddington Farmers’ Market 52nd & Haverford Ave. Wed: 1 – 5pm Opens July 7

Clark Park Famers’ Market 43rd & Baltimore Thurs: 3 – 7pm, June – Thanksgiving Sat: 10am – 2pm, June – Thanksgiving Sat: 10am – 1pm, Thanksgiving – April

outside the city

University Square Farmers’ Market 36th & Walnut Sts. Wed: 10am – 3pm Open until Thanksgiving

Schuylkill River Park Farmers’ Market 25th & Spruce Sts. Wed: 3 – 7pm Opens May 19 Fitler Square Farmers’ Market 23rd & Pine Sts. Sat: 9am –1pm Open year round

Conshohocken Farmers’ Market Fridays, 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.

East Lancaster Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Landsdowne Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Ambler Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Creekside Farmers’ Market Sundays, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Glenside Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Langhorne Farmers’ Market Tuesdays, 3:30 p.m. – 6:30 p.m.

Bryn Mawr Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

Doylestown Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 7 a.m. – noon

Indian Valley Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Lansdale Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Bala Cynwyd Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Eagleview Farmers’ Market Wednesdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m.

Kennett Square Farmers’ Market Fridays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m.

Lower Makefield Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 4 p.m. – 7 p.m.

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

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Pullout map courtesy of West Oak Lane Farmers’ Market 72nd & Ogontz Tues: 2–6 pm Opens June 1

Cliveden Park Farmers’ Market Cliveden Park Wed: 2 – 6pm Opens June 23

Map by Maskar Design Oxford Circle Farmers’ Market Oxford & Summerdale Thurs: 2pm – 6pm Opens June 10

Fairmount Farmers' Market 22nd St. & Fairmount Ave. Thurs: 3pm – 7pm Opens May 6

Cecil B. Moore Farmers’ Market Between Broad Street & Park Walk Thurs: 2 – 6pm Opens Mid-June

Piazza Farmers’ Market 969 North 2nd St. Sat: 10am – 3pm, year-round Sun: 10am – 3pm, May – September

Palmer Park Farmers’ Market Frankford Ave. & East Palmer St. Thurs: 2pm – 6pm Opens June 3

Love Park Farmers’ Market 15th & JFK Blvd. Wed: 11am – 3pm, June – October Farmers’ Market at Reading Terminal 12th St., between Cuthbert and Arch Sts. Sun: 9am – 2pm, Opens Mid-May

Suburban Station Farmers’ Market 16th St. Concourse Thurs: 2:30 – 6:30pm Year round

Rittenhouse Market 18th & Walnut Tues: 10am – 1pm; Until Thanksgiving Sat: 9:30am – 3pm; May – Nov Sat: 10am – 2pm; Dec – April

Jefferson Farmers’ Market Chestnut, East of 10th St. Thurs: 11am – 3pm Open until end of October

Broad & South Farmers’ Market Broad & South Sts. Wed: 2 – 7pm Opens May 26

Headhouse Farmers’ Market 2nd & Lombard Sts. Sat & Sun: 10am – 2pm Opens May 2

South & Passyunk Farmers’ Market Passyunk Ave off South St., east of 5th Tues: 2:30 – 7pm May – November

Fountain Farmers’ Market East Passyunk at 11th & Tasker Wed: 3 – 7pm Open until end of October

New Garden Growers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. -1 p.m.

Oxford Farmers’ Market Tuesdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m.

Swarthmore Farmers’ Market Saturday, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

West Reading Farmers’ Market Sundays, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

New Hope Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 3:30 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Phoenixville Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Upper Merion Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Wrightstown Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Norristown Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Plumsteadville Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – noon

West Chester Growers’ Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Oakmont Farmers’ Market Wednesdays, 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Skippack Farmers’ Market Sundays, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.

West Grove Producers’ Market Thursdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m.

For complete city and suburban farmers’ market listings, see page 22

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2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

Solebury Orchards offers apples, blackber-

fa r m t o fa m i ly

Local U-Pick Activities Experience farm life with a “U-Pick” adventure. Grab the kids and head out to the country for a day of applepicking, pumpkin painting, picnicking or berry-plucking. Berks County

Frecon Farms specializes in apples, but they

also grow cherries, peaches, pumpkins and raspberries. The pick-your-own apple season will kick off with the farm’s Fourth Annual Harvest PickFest featuring live bluegrass, carriage rides, face painting, pumpkin painting and more.

Bucks County

Snipes Farm is an insecticide and herbicide-

free orchard growing strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, peaches, apples and pumpkins. The farm also has an arboretum, tent facilities and the Snipes Farm and Education Center. The Center hosts a wide variety of programs and activities for children, youth and adults. Snipes Farm, snipesfarm.com, 890 W. Bridge St., Morrisville, 215-295-1138 www.fairfoodphilly.org

stone fruit, berries and pumpkins. They also offer pre-picked produce, alongside a gift shop, refreshment stand, playground, picnic are and petting zoo. The orchard is also available for birthday parties and school tours. Highland Orchards, highlandorchards.net, 1000 Marshallton-Thorndale Rd., West Chester, 610-269-3494

Delaware County

Indian Orchards, 24 Copes Ln., Media, 610-565-8387

Weaver’s Orchard, weaversorchard.com, 40 Fruit Ln., Morgantown, 610-856-7300

Highland Orchards specializes in apples,

The Rodale Institute cultivates over 30 variet-

Weaver’s Orchard produces apples, apricots, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, raspberries, strawberries, tomatoes, eggs, pumpkins and fresh apple cider. They also offer school tours, a refreshment stand and a picnic area.

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

Chester County

Frecon Farms, freconfarms.com, 501 S. Reading Ave., Boyertown, 610-367-6200

The Rodale Institute, rodaleinstitute.org, 611 Siegfriedale Rd., Kutztown, 610-683-6009

Solebury Orchards, soleburyorchards.com, 3325 Creamery Rd., New Hope, 215-297-8079

All Indian Orchards fruits and vegetables are sustainably or organically grown. This small family farm offers both pre-picked and pick-your-own fruit. In December, they will cut down the Christmas tree of your choice.

ies of organic apples on their farm. The season officially kicks off September 11 with the Organic Apple Festival, and lasts into October. Their farm store offers organic produce, apple butter, apple cider and organicallygrown, locally-milled flour. The Institute also features a picnic area, tours and workshops.

ries, blueberries, cherries, flowers and raspberries, July through October. They also host a farm market featuring local produce, home-pressed apple cider and applesauce. Farm tours and pick-your-own flowers outings are available.

Linvilla Orchards features pick-your-own fruit, vegetables and Christmas trees, as well as a pre-picked pumpkin patch. Linvilla also offers train rides, a corn and straw bale maze, a picnic area, hay rides, face painting, pony rides, a petting zoo and a farm shop.

Linvilla Orchards, linvilla.com, 137 W. Knowlton Rd., Media, 610-876-8796

Lancaster County

One of the oldest pick-your-own cherry orchards in Pennsylvania, Cherry Hill Orchards boasts over 2,500 trees. The farm also offers an outlet store stocked with prepicked produce and other farm goods. Cherry Hill Orchards, cherryhillorchards.com, 400 Long Ln., Lancaster, 717-872-9311

Montgomery County

Willow Creek Orchards’ pick-your-own strawberries are certified organic. The farm’s market carries homemade jams, whips and smoothies, alongside products from other local farmers. Farm tours and demonstrations are available.

Willow Creek Orchards, willowcreekorchards. com, 3215 Stump Hall Rd., Collegeville, 610-584-8202

photo by jamie leary

► fai r food staff pi cks

Genevieve Lodal – Farmstand Staff Pequea Valley Plain Yogurt is key to one of my favorite breakfasts. It’s everything a great yogurt should be: thick, creamy and with just the right amount of tanginess. Add some fruit and nuts, and you’re good to go. If I want something special, I go for Betty’s Tasty Buttons Fudge. I love the flavor combinations, and the goat milk gives it a great base flavor. Plus, the packaging is super fun.

Food Artisans Amaranth Gluten Free Bakery amaranthbakery.com, 717-330-4359

Amaranth Bakery is a dedicated gluten-free facility providing local natural food grocers, restaurants and cafes with freshly baked breads, rolls, sweets and more. They use whole grain flours and natural sweeteners to make their products not only delicious, but nutritious.

Betty’s Tasty Buttons bettysfudge.com, 215-735-9060

Helen’s Pure Food | Michele’s Original helenspurefood@aol.com 215-379-6433, 301 Ryers Ave., Cheltenham

Founded in 1978, Helen’s Pure Foods and Michele’s Original are creators and distributors of gourmet vegetarian spreads, salads, sandwiches, hoagies, dressings and soups. Their products are all-natural, kosher (parve), freshly-made and delicious. They package in retail and food service sizes, and also have a weekly delivery schedule for wholesale accounts.

Marcie Blaine Artisanal Chocolates

B.T. Baking

Market Day Canelé

btbaking.com, 804-338-7545

gil@marketdaycanele.com, 215-922-3571

fourworldsbakery.com 215-967-1458, 4634 Woodland Ave., Philadelphia

Michael Dolich’s Four Worlds Bakery is a neighborhood storefront bakery specializing in artisan breads, croissant, challah and chocolate babka. Their mission is to bring back the neighborhood bakery—a place where people can actually see their bread being baked. Four Worlds’ space in West Philly is also home to other artisans, including a coffee roaster and a cupcake baker.

Fresh Tofu Inc. freshtofu.com 610-433-4711, 1101 Harrison St., Allentown

Since 1983, Fresh Tofu Inc. has supplied the East Coast with organic artisanal tofu and other fine soy products. The principle “fresher is better” has always guided the company—no preservatives are used in the processing and all of their products are vegan.

Gilda’s Biscotti, Inc. 856-935-3355; toll-free: 866-242-5640, 1 Hires Ave., Salem, NJ

Gilda’s Biscotti is dedicated to the preservation of the old style of baking. By using only wholesome, high-quality ingredients in small batches, owner Gilda Ann Doganiero is able to

Real Food. Local Roots.

create the finest, freshest, most authentic biscotti possible.

Betty’s Tasty Buttons focuses on handcrafted baked goods and confections using local, organic and sustainable ingredients. They offer a wide variety of items and many seasonal specialties. They’re especially known for their fudge and their “Best of Philly 2009” cupcakes.

Four Worlds Bakery

verdephiladelphia.com 215-546-8700, 108 S. 13th St., Philadelphia

Chef Marcie Turney crafts artisanal chocolates in her open chocolate studio, using ingredients from local family farms.

Market Day Canelé makes the legendary pastry of Bordeaux here in Philadelphia using local, farm fresh ingredients. Other products include Market Day Fleur de Sel Caramels—pure and simple vanilla, rum and chocolate—made with Lancaster County cream and butter, and Fleur de Sel de Guerande. Their goods are available at Pumpkin Market, LaColombe, Green Aisle Grocery, Quince and local farmers’ markets, including the Piazza at Schmidt’s, Clark Park and Headhouse Square.

Michael’s Savory Seitan templfoods@yahoo.com 267-597-7596, 261 Cedar Lane, Florence, NJ

Michael’s uses only the finest ingredients in their savory seitan—three varieties of sea vegetables are slow simmered in vegetable stock, and a high-grade shoyu tamari is added to give the seitan a mild salty taste. Flavors are handadded into each and every batch.

Subarashii Kudamono wonderfulfruit.com 610-282-7588, Lehigh Valley/Berks County region

This artisan grower of gourmet Asian pears offers several traditional varieties (as well as patented varieties) throughout the growing season (September through December). They also sell dried Asian pears year-round as a healthy and delicious snack.

Offering fresh local produce, raw milk, local honey, natural bodycare items, supplements & a wide variety of gourmet cheeses & grocery items, Kimberton Whole Foods is a great way to keep your dollars in the local economy! Visit us at one of our 4 locations in Kimberton, Downingtown, Douglassville & Ottsville.

www.KimbertonWholeFoods.com www.fairfoodphilly.org

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

PHILADELPHIA 2010-11

Local Food Guide

► fair fo o d s taff p ic ks

Leticia Garcia – Program Associate I love heirloom Stayman-Winesap apples for their dusty blood red skin, deep musky aroma and sweet, creamy flesh. I love to eat them with Apple Tree Goat Dairy’s Goat Cheese and a drizzle of local honey.

The Greenwood Kitchen & Bakeshop thegreenwoodkitchen.com 610-342-7872

Greenwood Kitchen is commited to providing the most natural and nutritious raw snacks and baked goods around. All their products are vegan, gluten-free and casein free. Organic ingredients are sourced locally year-round, and their delicious creations are made in a wheat-free environment to prevent any cross contamination.

Schools, Universities, Hospitals and Other Institutions These large institutions have enormous food needs, and thus an enormous power to influence our local food economy. They’ve chosen responsibility and sustainability by promoting locally-grown food on their campuses.

What’s in Season? Harvest dates availability chart graphic by maskar design

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

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Bon Appétit at Penn Dining

Culinart at William Penn Charter School

paul.bulau@cafebonappetit.com Staffer Hall, 3702 Spruce St., Philadelphia

bcohen@penncharter.com 215-844-3460 3000 W. School House Ln., Philadelphia

Bon Appétit at Penn Dining is driven to create food that is alive with flavor and nutrition, prepared from scratch using whole ingredients. They do this in a socially responsible manner, purchasing from local sustainable farms.

Cooper University Hospital cooperhealth.org 856-342-2000 One Cooper Plaza, Camden, NJ

Cooper University Hospital continues to increase the amount of food they purchase locally. This year, the hospital sourced locallycaught fish from a sustainable seafood vendor, and they are in their third year with the Muth Family Farm CSA. They also buy local turkey, grass-fed beef, cage-free eggs, honey, cider, fruits and vegetables. The hospital will host “Cooper’s Farmers’ Market” on their grounds every Wednesday during the growing season.

Haverford College haverford.com 610-896-1000 370 Lancaster Ave., Haverford

Throughout the academic year, Haverford College Dining Services buys local food, including fruits, vegetables and other items. They also feature monthly all-local dinners co-sponsored by Food Fight, a campus food system advocacy group. For the past three years, Haverford has supported local farmers through their dining services, special events and creative consumer marketing.

Kendal-Crosslands Communities kcc.kendal.org 610-388-5520 PO Box 699, Kennett Square

Kendal-Crosslands Communities are located on 393 acres in Kennett Square. As continuing care communities, they offer services and amenities that free residents from the chores of home maintenance, housekeeping and meals. Their programs are committed to wellness and serving local items whenever possible.

Fulton's Dairy

Held Every Saturday from Memorial Day through Halloween!

Fair Food Approved

CATERING! de

pendent,

We offer a full line of quality milk that you can’t find in stores as well as artisan cheeses at affordable prices. All products are from our own herd of cows that has been on the same farm since 1950.

To see our full list of products and events, please checkout our website or call for more details.

Phone: 717-776-3338

www.fultonsdairy.com

Enough Food Here? Enough Food There?

ade

We offer on farm tours as well as cheese making classes. See our website for full details

We are the affordable alternative to organic.

mUgShOTS mUgShOTS CoffeeHouse & Café

Saturdays, 9 am – 1 pm 30 N. Lansdowne Avenue Lansdowne, PA 19050 Featuring organic and locally produced vegetables, fruit, bread, meats, cheeses, flowers and fresh baked goods. Plus live music and artists every week, and a special event each month!

Mugshots offers coffee to go, breakfast trays, and party platters, great for meetings, events, and parties! Delivery available. Biodegradable plates and cutlery included. To order, visit us online at www.mugshotscoffeehouse.com, and click on catering.

21st & Fairmount / 110 Cotton Street in Manayunk Coming soon to Brewerytown!

LansdowneFarmersMarket.com

swarthmore co-op

Enough Food Everywhere? Join Friends of the World Food Program United Nations Association of Greater Philadelphia www.una-gp.org / info@una.gp.org

sustainable • organic • local

341 dartmouth ave. swarthmore, pa 19081 610.543.9805 www.swarthmore.coop

www.fairfoodphilly.org

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

PHILADELPHIA 2010-11

► fair fo o d s taff p ic ks

Local Food Guide

Paul Lawler – Farmstand Staff Meadow Run Plain Pork Sausage is a misnomer, really,

since this sausage is bursting with coriander, pepper and that signature, rich Berkshire hog flavor. One of the triumphs of the sustainability movement is that we can have our ethics and our pork, too!

Parkhurst at Philadelphia University 215-951-2924, School House Ln. & Henry Ave., Philadelphia

Philadelphia Univeristy is dedicated to bringing fresh products to campus while supporting local growers. The school offers a monthly local dinner in Ravenhill Dining Hall, in conjunction with Sustainable Action, a student organization. They also help host a monthly farmers’ market featuring local produce from Common Market and Lancaster Farm Fresh Co-op.

Sustainable Fare/ The Lawrenceville School sustainablefare.com 609-620-6143, PO Box 543, Island Heights, NJ

See description on page 15.

Thomas Jefferson University Hospital jeffersonhospital.org 800-JEFF-NOW, 111 S. 11th St., Philadelphia

Jefferson Hospital is committed to supporting local farmers and promoting healthy food choices. The Atrium cafeteria, open to the community, features fair trade organic coffee, local organic yogurt and cage-free eggs; grass–fed beef is available to patients. All menus include local, seasonal produce and rBGH-free local dairy. The hospital is the recipient of the 2007 EPA Trailblazer Award.

Breweries Philadelphia is arguably the country’s top beer city. The region is home to over 30 breweries, including quite a few national standouts. Local brewmasters are new to the Local Food Guide, and we’d like to congratulate our “Founding Five”— Sly Fox, Yards, Philadelphia Brewing Company, Flying Fish and Victory— for being the first breweries to join the ranks of Fair Food members.

Allentown Brew Works thebrewworks.com 610-433-7777, 812 W Hamilton St., Allentown

Appalachian Brewing Company abcbrew.com 717-920-2739, 3721 Market St.,Camp Hill

Bethlehem Brew Works

Climax Brewing Company

McKenzie Brew House

climaxbrewing.com 908-620-9585, 112 Valley Rd., Roselle Park, NJ

mckenziebrewhouse.com 610-296-2222, 240 W. Lancaster Ave., Malvern

Cricket Hill Brewing Company, Inc.

Nodding Head Brewery

crickethillbrewery.com 973-276-9415, 24 Kulick Rd., Fairfield, NJ

noddinghead.com 215-569-9525, 1516 Sansom St., Philadelphia

Dock Street Brewery Co.

Philadelphia Brewing Co.

dockstreetbeer.com 215-726-2337, 701 S. 50th St., Philadelphia

philadelphiabrewing.com 215-427-2739, 2423-39 Amber St., Philadelphia

Earth Bread & Brewery

By keeping it local, Philadelphia’s one and only Philadelphia Brewing Co. is able to provide you with the freshest beer in town. They offer brewery tours every Saturday (noon – 3 p.m.) where you can learn how their commitment to sustainability and community make them stand out from the rest.

earthbreadbrewery.com 215-242-6666, 7136 Germantown Ave., Phila.

Philadelphia Distilling Co.

Flying Fish Brewing Company

philadelphiadistilling.com 215-671-0346, 12285 McNulty Rd., Philadelphia

Flyingfish.com 856-489-0061, 1940 Olney Ave., Cherry Hill, NJ

Prism Beer Company

Dogfish Head Craft Brewery dogfish.com 302-226-BREW, 320 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth Beach, DE

Cherry Hill’s Flying Fish lives local—all their beer is sold within 100 miles of the brewery. They brew five year-round beers, as well as seasonal favorites. They’re also hard at work on the Exit Series (exitseries.com), a line of limitedrun brews celebrating all things New Jersey with a beer for each Turnpike exit. Many of the brewery’s beers feature locally-grown or produced ingredients. Check Flying Fish out on Twitter: @jerseyfreshale.

prismbeer.com 866-424-9681, 2995 Brambling Ln., Norristown

River Horse Brewing Company riverhorse.com 609-397-7776, 80 Lambert Ln., Lambertville, NJ

Roy Pitz Brewing Co., Inc. roypitz.com 717-496-8753, 140 N. Third St., Chambersburg

General Lafayette Inn & Brewery

Sly Fox Beer

generallafayetteinn.com 610-941-0600, 646 Germantown Pk., Lafayette Hill

slyfoxbeer.com • 520 Kimberton Rd., Phoenixville, 610-935-4540 • 312 N. Lewis Rd., Royersford, 610-948-8088

Iron Hill Brewery ironhillbrewery.com 610-738-9600, 3 W. Gay St., West Chester

Lancaster Brewing Co. lancasterbrewing.com 717-391-6258, 302 N. Plum St., Lancaster

Sly Fox Brewing was born as a local brewpub in Phoenixville and has supported all sorts of local merchants throughout the years, from local coffee producers to wineries to a recently-founded meadery. Sly Fox also hosts beer dinners at various venues featuring local cuisine.

Southampton Brewery

thebreworks.com 610-882-1300, 569 Main St., Bethlehem

Legacy Brewing Co. 610-376-9996, 525 Canal St., Reading

southhamptonpublickhouse.com 631-283-2800, 40 Bowden Sq., Southampton, NY

Bluecoat AmericanGin

Lion Brewery

Stoudt’s Brewing Co., Inc.

bluecoatgin.com 215-671-0346, 12285 McNulty Rd., Philadelphia

lionbrewery.com 570-823-8801, 700 N. Pennsylvania Blvd., Wilkes-Barre

stoudtsbeer.com 717-484-4386, 2800 N. Reading Rd., Adamstown

Manayunk Brewing Co.

triumphbrewing.com 215-625-0855, 117 Chestnut St., Philadelphia

BOAKS Beer boaksbeer.com 973-570-6381, 262 Wanaque Ave., Pompton Lakes, NJ

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manayunkbrewery.com 215-482-8220, 4120 Main St., Philadelphia

Triumph Brewing Company

Victory Brewing Company victorybeer.com 610-873-0881, 420 Acorn Ln., Downingtown

Since 1996, Victory Brewing has been creating award-winning beers in Downingtown. Victory’s local roots run deep—founders Bill and Ron are childhood friends who met on a Montgomery County school bus in 1973. Now serving fans of full-flavored beers in 30 states, Victory remains deeply committed to watershed conservation and community stewardship. Check them out on Twitter: @victorybeer.

Yards Brewing Co. yardsbrewing.com 215-634-2600, 901 N. Delaware Ave., Philadelphia

Yards Brewing Company is Philadelphia’s oldest and largest craft brewery. Since 1994, Yards has brewed English-style ales that helped revolutionize the Philadelphia beer scene. Recognized for both the quality of their beer and their commitment to sustainability and community outreach, Yards has become a landmark in the city of Philadelphia.

Farmers’ Markets These farmers’ markets showcase food grown or produced on local, sustainable family farms, sold by the farmers themselves. Whether you’re looking for seasonal vegetables, complex local cheeses, pastured eggs or grass-fed meat, Philly’s farmers’ markets are there to enliven your meals. For more information on the area’s markets, visit farmtocity.org or thefoodtrust.org.

3420 Sansom St. 215-386-9224 whitedogcafe.com

Center City East

Farmers’ Market at Reading Terminal

12th St. (btw. Cuthbert and Arch Sts.), Phila. Sundays, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m., opens mid-May

Headhouse Farmers’ Market

2nd & Lombard Sts., Philadelphia Sat. & Sun., 10 a.m. – 2 p.m., opens May 2

Jefferson Farmers’ Market

Chestnut & 10th Sts., Philadelphia Thursdays, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m., open through Oct.

South & Passyunk Farmers’ Market

Passyunk Avenue (at South & 5th Sts.), Phila. Tuesdays, 2:30 – 7 p.m., May – November Center City West

West Oak Lane • Broad & South • Cliveden Park Haddington • Schuylkill River Park • Clark Park • Fairmount Norristown • Oxford Circle • Palmer Park • Cecil B. Moore Conshohocken • Germantown • Catasauqua • East Lancaster Fitler Square • Headhouse • Lansdale • Lansdowne Phoenixville • Overbrook Farms • Wrightsville • West Reading

Find your farmers’ market www.headhousemarket.org

Broad & South Farmers’ Market

Broad & South Sts., Philadelphia Wednesdays, 2 p.m. – 7 p.m., opens May 26

Fitler Square Farmers’ Market

23rd & Pine Sts., Philadelphia Saturdays, 9 a.m. -1 p.m., open year round

Love Park Farmers’ Market

15th St. & JFK Blvd., Philadelphia Wednesdays, 11 a.m. – 3 p.m., June – October

Rittenhouse Farmers’ Market

18th & Walnut Sts., Philadelphia Tues., 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.; open until Thanksgiving

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Local Food Guide

Seth Kalkstein – Farmstand General Manager Birchrun Hills Farm Red Cat is made from the raw milk of grass-fed Holsteins. It’s aged anywhere from 60 to 120 days. At 60, it can be described as two cheeses in one—beneath the edible rind is a semisoft layer that’s assertive and meaty without being overpowering. The interior is light and the flavor crisp and fruity. At 120 days, the rind is still edible and takes on the bitterness of char-grilled asparagus. At this point, it’s a stinky cheese lover’s dream.

Saturdays, 9:30 a.m. – 3 p.m.; May – November Saturdays, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.; Dec. – April

Schuylkill River Park Farmers’ Market 25th & Spruce Sts., Philadelphia Wednesdays, 3 p.m. – 7 p.m., opens May 19

Suburban Station Farmers’ Market 16th Street Concourse (between Market St. and JFK Blvd,), Philadelphia Thursdays, 2:30 – 6:30 p.m., year round Fairmount

Fairmount Farmers’ Market

22nd St. & Fairmount Ave., Philadelphia Thursdays, 3 p.m. – 7 p.m., opens May 6

Girard & 27th Farm Market

Girard & 27th Sts., Philadelphia Wed., 10 a.m. – 1 p.m., open through Oct.

Manayunk Farmers’ Market

South Philadelphia

Mt. Airy Farmers’ Market

East Passyunk Ave. (Tasker & 11th Sts.), Phila., Wednesdays, 3 p.m. – 7 p.m., open until the end of October

Canal View Park (Main & Gay Sts.), Phila. Saturdays, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m., May – November Lutheran Theological Seminary Plaza (Germantown Ave. & Allens Ln.), Philadelphia Tues., 3 p.m. -7 p.m., May 25 – Thanksgiving

Cecil B. Moore Avenue (between Broad St. & Park Walk), Philadelphia Thursdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., opens mid-June Northwest Philadelphia

Chestnut Hill Grower’s Market

Winston Rd. at Germantown Ave., Phila. Sat., 9:30 a.m. – 1:30 p.m., open until Thanksgiving

Cliveden Park Farmers’ Market

Cliveden Park (Chew and Johnson Sts.), Phila. Wednesdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., opens June 23

Germantown Farmers’ Market

Germantown Ave. & Walnut Ln., Philadelphia Fridays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., opens May 28

West Philadelphia

Clark Park Farmers’ Market

Ogontz & 72nd Aves., Philadelphia Tuesdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., opens June 1

43rd St. & Baltimore Ave., Philadelphia Saturdays, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.; May – November Thursdays, 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.; May – November Saturdays, 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.; December – April

Northeast Philadelphia

Haddington Farmers’ Market

North Philadelphia

Cecil B. Moore Farmers’ Market

Fountain Farmers’ Market

West Oak Lane Farmers’ Market

Oxford Circle Farmers’ Market

Oxford & Summerdale Aves., Philadelphia Thursdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., opens June 10 Northern Liberties/Fishtown/Kensington

Palmer Park Farmers’ Market

Frankford Ave. & E. Palmer St., Philadelphia Thursdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., opens June 3

Piazza Farmers’ Market

969 North 2nd St., Philadelphia Saturdays, 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.; open year round Sundays, 10 a.m. – 3 p.m.; May – September

52nd St. & Haverford Ave., Philadelphia Wednesdays, 1 p.m. – 5 p.m., opens July 7

Overbrook Farmers’ Market

63rd St. (btw. Sherwood Rd. & Overbrook Ave.), Philadelphia Saturday, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., opens May 29

University Square Farmers’ Market 36th & Walnut Sts., Philadelphia Wednesdays, 10 a.m. – 3 p.m., open until Thanksgiving

Marnie Old’s Pairing Notes

Five Local Cheeses with Local Wines and Beers Aged Chèvre-Style Cheese with Belgian-Style Farmhouse Saison Shellbark Hollow Farm’s Crottin de Chèvre, West Chester, PA and Victory Helios Ale, Downingtown, PA

Most American goat cheeses are young and fresh, but these adorable mini-cheeses are aged to perfection, imbued with the tang and resonance of flavor made famous by their namesake in France’s Loire Valley. They’re a perfect match for spicy Saison-style ales, such as the golden Helios from Victory Brewing Company. The peppery marmalade aromas have just enough earthy funk to stand up to this pungent little gem. You can also give it a try with other local Saisons, such as Yards’ Saison and Flying Fish’s Farmhouse Summer Ale.

Marnie Old is one of the country’s leading wine and beer authors and Philadelphia’s highest profile sommelier. She is the host of “Uncorked,” Philly.com’s weekly wine webisode series, and her latest book Wine Secrets is in stores now. photo by jon pushnik 24

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Outside the City Limits

Ambler Farmers’ Market

Kennett Square Farmers’ Market

Phoenixville Farmers’ Market

Landsdowne Farmers’ Market

Plumsteadville Farmers’ Market

State St., Kennett Square Fridays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., May 14 – October

Butler & Lindenwold Sts., Ambler Thursdays, 3 p.m. – 7 p.m.

Bryn Mawr Farmers’ Market

Lancaster Ave., Municipal Lot 7 (near Bryn Mawr Train Station), Bryn Mawr Sat., 10 a.m. – 2 p.m., May 8 – Thanksgiving

Bala Cynwyd Farmers’ Market

Belmont Ave. & St. Asaphs Rd., Bala Cynwyd Thursdays, 3 p.m. – 7 p.m., May – November

Conshohocken Farmers’ Market

Fayette & W. Hector Sts., Conshohocken Fridays, 10 a.m. – 3 p.m., Opens mid-May

Creekside Farmers’ Market at High School Park

Montgomery and High School Rds., Elkins Park Sundays, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m., April – October

Doylestown Farmers’ Market

25 S. Hamilton St., Doylestown Saturdays, 7 a.m. – noon, April 17 – Nov. 20

Lansdowne Avenue Parking Lot (between Baltimore Pk. & Stewart Ave.), Landsdowne Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., Opens May 29

Langhorne Farmers’ Market

115 W. Richardson Ave., Langhorne Tues,, 3:30 p.m. – 6:30 p.m., June 8 – October

Lansdale Farmers’ Market

Railroad Plaza (Main & Green Sts.), Landsale Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., Opens June 12

Lower Makefield Farmers’ Market

Edgewood & Acatock Rds., Doylestown Thurs., 4 p.m. – 7 p.m., June – Mid-October

New Garden Growers’ Market

Rt. 41, New Garden Saturdays, 9 a.m. -1 p.m., May – November

New Hope Farmers’ Market

Eagleview Farmers’ Market

Wednesdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., June – November

New Hope-Solebury High School, 180 Bridge St., New Hope Thursdays, 3:30 p.m. – 7 p.m.,Opens May 6

East Lancaster Farmers’ Market

Norristown Farmers’ Market

Historic Eastern Market, 308 East King St., Lancaster, Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m., Opens May 29

Glenside Farmers’ Market

Glenside SEPTA Station (southbound side), 5 W. Glenside Ave., Glenside Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., May – November

Indian Valley Farmers’ Market

Telford Station (Penn & Main Sts.), Telford Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., Opens May 15

Swede & Main Sts., Norristown Thursdays, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m., Opens June 3

Oakmont Farmers’ Market

West Darby Rd., Haverford Wed., 3 p.m. – 7 p.m., May 19 – November 24

Oxford Farmers’ Market

Rt. 611 & Kellers Church Rd., Plumstead Saturdays, 9 a.m. – noon

Skippack Farmers’ Market

4056 Skippack Pk., Skippack Sun., 10 a.m. – 2 p.m., Open May – September

Swarthmore Farmers’ Market

Town Center Parking Lot (across from Swarthmore Co-op), Swarthmore Saturday, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. Open until Thanksgiving

Upper Merion Farmers’ Market

175 West Valley Forge Rd., King of Prussia Sat., 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., May 15 – November 20

West Chester Growers’ Market

North Church & West Chestnut Sts., West Chester, Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m. May – November

West Grove Producers’ Market

Harmony Park (Harmony Rd.), West Grove Thursdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., May – October

West Reading Farmers’ Market

500 Block of Pennsylvania Ave., Reading Sundays, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m., Opens May 30

Wrightstown Farmers’ Market

2203 2nd Street Pk., Wrightstown Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., Opens May 1

3rd & Locust Sts., Oxford Tuesdays, 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., May – November

Rich Blue Cheese with Dark German-Style Doppelbock Lager

Funky Toma-Style Cheese with BordeauxStyle Red Blend

Birchrun Hills Farm’s Birchrun Blue, Chester Springs, PA and Sly Fox Instigator Doppelbock, Phoenixville, PA

Cherry Grove Farm’s Toma Primavera, Lawrenceville, NJ and Penns Woods Proprietor’s Reserve Red, Chadds Ford, PA

Fans of Roquefort should check out this stylish local blue, whose depth, decadence and spreadable texture make for extreme versatility. Cheeses this intense demand a beer of equal strength, and a dark, malty Doppelbock is an excellent option. Originally designed to provide fasting monks with enough nutrition to forego their daily bread, this style has become a regional specialty thanks to Pennsylvania’s German heritage. Sly Fox’s Instigator is a perfect foil for Birchrun Blue, providing dessert-like flavors of nutty nougat and chocolate-covered toffee. Also worth considering are Troëgs Troëgenator and Stoudt’s Smooth Hoperator.

Bridge St. & Taylor Alley, Phoenixville Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., Open Year Round

Anyone doubting that local cheese can compete with European classics in finesse and complexity should seek out this remarkable New Jersey winner. Inspired by the cheeses of Piedmont in Northern Italy, it delivers a multifaceted range of flavors from fruity twang to truffle-y depth. It makes a lovely match with mid-weight blends of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, such as the surprisingly ripe Proprietor’s Reserve from Penns Woods, rich with dark berry flavors and a woodsy tone. More local options in this vein include the Leverage cuvée from Paradocx and Crossing Vineyards’ Vintner’s Select.

Mild Gouda-Style Cheese with Un-Oaked Chardonnay Keswick Creamery’s Vermeer, Newburg, PA and Chaddsford “Naked” Chardonnay, Chadds Ford, PA

This cheese is made in the image of Dutch Gouda, aged just long enough to stand firm. It is richly textured, but extremely mild, with a faint nutty undercurrent. These characteristics are echoed by the subtle opulence of Chardonnay made without the use of oak barrels, cool-fermented in stainless steel. The “Naked Chardonnay” from Chaddsford offers crisp orchard flavors of apple and pear, along with classy, pine-nut plumpness on the palate. Similar characteristics can be found in Stargazers Chardonnay or the Pinot Grigio from J. Maki Winery.

Sharp Cheddar-Style Cheese with Hoppy American-Style IPA Clover Creek Creamery’s Galen’s Good Old, Williamsburg, PA and Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA, Milton, DE

Patience has its rewards, and this delightful aged cheese certainly proves that. Cheeses dry slowly over time, becoming denser, sharper, saltier and fattier as they lose water volume. These qualities call for a bold beer with a bitter bite to scour the palate clean. A perfect choice is Dogfish Head’s 60 Minute IPA, a beer that has earned national attention for its masterful balance of malty opulence and citrusy refreshment. Also consider giving this cheese a try with other local brews, such as Philadelphia Brewing Company’s Newbold IPA or Victory HopDevil.

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from our farm to your home

Fresh produce every Sunday at the Headhouse Farmers Market, 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;2pm. Also available through fine retailers, restaurants, and CSAs throughout the city. 717.677.7186 R www.threespringsfruitfarm.com

Local Peat Free Earth Friendly OrganicMechanicSoil.com 110 East Biddle Street | West Chester, PA 19380 | 610.692.7404

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Half Gallons, Quarts, Pints, Half Pints, Plastic and Wire Carriers, Milk Bottle caps in 3 sizes, Pour caps, Handles and Bottle brushes. See us online at LocalAmishFarms.com or locally at an Amish Farm in Cochranville, PA. No order too small Call: Barbara Odell at 610-299-6726 Email: order@LocalAmishFarms.com We only sell items made in North America

Green Philly Businesses

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shop online for home delivery Visit Us at www.anaturalday.net

or contact us at info@anaturalday.net

Betsy Spivak Insurance Services Individual & Small Group Health Insurance Life Insurance, Disability Income Insurance & Long Term Care Specializing in helping Individuals and Families, the Self-Employed & the Locally Owned Small Business betsy@betsyspivakinsurance.com Direct: 215.275.3033 www.BetsySpivakInsurance.com

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GPTMC’s promotion of the local food movement is made possible by grants from the Delaware Valley Regional Planning Commission and the William Penn Foundation.

Local Food Guide

The Candy Man Can:

Shane Candy Co 110 Market Street, Philadelphia 215-922-1048 shanecandies.com

Blood sugar getting low? Visit Shane’s Candies, a living antique—they’ve been handmaking candy on those marble slabs for more than a century. Our recommendation: Take home the almond butter crunch.

The Franklin Fountain

Philadelphia—dubbed the City of Brotherly Love—caters to couples with romantic eateries, gourmet grocers, sweets shops and other locally-sourced, swoon-worthy spots. Expand your knowledge and your palate: Tria Café

1601 Walnut Street, Suite 610, Philadelphia 215-972-7076, triacafe.com

Your education begins at Tria Fermentation School where cheese, wine and beer provide the fodder for one-night classes with names like “Fortified Wine: Only the Strong Survive.” In a low-pressure environment, brewers, vintners, cheese makers, importers and authors share their knowledge with gastronomy-loving students.

Philadelphia Brewing Company 2439 Amber Street, Philadelphia 215-427-2739, philadelphiabrewing.com

If wine and cheese aren’t your bag, Philadelphia Brewing Co. is open for Saturday tours (noon – 3 p.m.). They don’t serve food but are happy to sell you all the tasty beer you can consume (or carry out).

For Dinner:

Noble American Cookery 2025 Sansom Street, Philadelphia 215-568-7000, noblecookery.com

Noble American Cookery serves sensational seasonal fare, incorporating produce from local farms and the former carriage house’s rooftop garden. It’s easy to feel at home at this Sansom Street haven—from the inviting décor (crafted using salvaged and reclaimed woods) to the refined, soulful cuisine.

MidAtlantic

3711 Market Street, Philadelphia 215-386-3711 midatlanticrestaurant.com

Garces Trading Company

Daniel Stern reinterprets the roots of traditional regional foods at his aptly-titled Mid-Atlantic. The menu recalls the tastes, seasonings, spices and produce of the bustling and vibrant city market that once made its way from City Hall to the Delaware River.

1111 Locust Street, Philadelphia 215-574-1099, garcestradingcompany.com

LaCroix Restaurant

After you’ve worked your brain and your tastebuds, swing by Garces Trading Company for a cup of coffee featuring a customized blend of beans from Lambertville’s Rojo’s Roastery. Fancy something stronger? Garces’ partnership with the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board allows for in-store wine purchasing and drinking. Grab a bottle, and don’t miss the Iron Chef’s homemade mozzarella and house-cured charcuterie. 28

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210 West Rittenhouse Square, Philadelphia 215-790-2533, lacroixrestaurant.com

LaCroix at the Rittenhouse’s Chef de Cuisine Jason Cichonski uses products from local farms in Northern Pennsylvania and Bucks County to create delicious cuisine. The restaurant also places a huge premium on freshness, adding an extra zip to their signature dishes.

A few doors down, The Franklin Fountain is making all their ice cream in-house. It’ll be hard to resist Dr. Dovey’s Classic Banana Split—made from the original 1904 recipe— but there’s usually an unexpected flavor ready to lure you off the beaten path; ask your servers for their favorites.

Capogiro Gelateria

Midtown Village: 119 South 13th Street Rittenhouse Square: 117 South 20th Street University City: 3925 Walnut Street South Philadelphia: 1625 E. Passyunk Avenue capogirogelato.com

If fine artisanal gelato and sorbetto are more your speed, head to one of Philadelphia’s most popular dessert staples: Capogiro. This gelateria boasts four locations across the city and offers dozens of refreshing flavors, giving you that Roman Holiday feeling.

Late Night:

Johnny Brenda’s 1201 Frankford Avenue, Philadelphia 215-739-9684 johnnybrendas.com

For some after-hours fun, head to Fishtown’s Johnny Brenda’s, one of the city’s best livemusic venues. They also offer excellent, locally-sourced pub fare—can you say midnight snack?—and a full slate of local beers on tap. Head upstairs to catch local and national artists in the intimate performance space.

johnny brenda’s Photo by G. Widman for GPTMC

Date Night

116 Market Street, Philadelphia 215-627-1899 franklinfountain.com

Johnny Brenda’s

Where does your food come from?

Saturday in the Country The Philadelphia countryside offers a wealth of farms, markets, restaurants and wineries. You could spend months visiting them all. Here are a few stand-outs to get you started. Make sure to bring: A few reusable grocery bags, a cooler with ice packs (to keep your purchases fresh) and a hat or sunscreen. Phoenixville Farmers’ Market

Peace Valley Winery

Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 1 p.m., Bridge Street and Taylor Alley, Phoenixville phoenixvillefarmersmarket.org

300 Old Limekiln Road, Chalfont peacevalleywinery.com

Start your day at the Phoenixville Farmers’ Market. You can grab a cup of coffee from Artisan’s Gallery and Café, pick up some honey made by Dave and Rosemary Baues’ very busy bees and buy some vivid, yellowyolked pastured eggs from Jack’s Farm. The live music starts every week at 10 a.m., so make sure to stick around for that.

Hendricks Farm and Dairy 202 Green Hill Road in Telford hendricksfarmsanddairy.com

Now that you’ve done a bit of farmers’ market shopping, head to Hendricks Farm and Dairy to take a peek at a real working farm. This family operation is committed to responsible land management and the production of the most delicious and nutritious food possible. Their farm store is open Saturdays, 9 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Down to Earth Café

1141 N. 5th Streett, Perkasie thedowntoearthcafe.com

Hungry for lunch? Just a spell further down the road in Perkasie, you’ll find Down to Earth Café. Run by the Maxwell family, the café serves up flavorful food made using fresh, local and—whenever possible— organic ingredients. The menu changes regularly, so take a peek at the website to see what goodies await.

A fully-operational winery since 1984, Peace Valley produces a line of wines that ranges from dry to sweet, meaning they have something for every palate! The tasting room staff loves showing off their products and will happily guide you to the perfect, locally-grown and produced wine. During the harvest season, Peace Valley offers pick-your-own grapes and apples (be sure to bring your own picking container).

Victory Brewing Company 420 Acorn Lane, Downingtown victorybeer.com

After a dusty day on the road in pursuit of the region’s best local foods, consider taking a load off at Victory Brewing Company. Get a sampler flight so you can taste a wide range of their brews, and pair them with a seasonally-inspired pizza. Other spots to check out:

When you shop at Weavers Way, you know exactly where your food comes from, whether it’s milk from Montgomery County, apples from Bucks, grass fed local meat, or one of the 80 different items from our farms in Northwest Philadelphia, including our own farm at Awbury Arboretum. At Weavers Way, we take local seriously.

Weavers Way Co-op, Now in Chestnut Hill! 8424 Germantown Avenue • Early morning coffee from 7 a.m., with pastries & muffins to help get you started • Salad Bar—for yummy, healthy lunches • Sandwich counter—with freshbaked, local breads and quality fillings • Prepared foods—we do the cooking, you reap the praises • Cheeses—tasty artisan and local cheeses • Fresh herbs and spices, garden plants and accessories • Great hours too—Daily 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sunday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Community owned & open to the public

Styer Orchards, styerorchard.com Linvilla Orchards, linvilla.com Highland Orchards Farm and Market, highlandorchards.net

For more info on eating your way through the region, check out visitphilly.com and uwishunu.com

Mt. Airy • Chestnut Hill • Ogontz

WWW.WEAVERSWAY.COOP www.fairfoodphilly.org

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In the Chestnut Hill Farmer’s Market: 8229 Germantown Ave. 215.753.1991 | cosmicfoods.com

fresh, local food seasonal custom menus unique events 215-435-0331 / info@birchtreecatering.com

u lt i m o

coffee bar 15th and Mifflin Streets in South Philadelphia Mon-Fri 7-9 • Sat-Sun 8-9 215.339.5177 www.ultimocoffee.com

We give vintage lumber a second life. Sawmill, woodworking, furniture & restoration

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2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

www.fairfoodphilly.org

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

PHILADELPHIA 2010-11

Local Food Guide

Monk’s Café a casual, affordable, neighborhood beer bistro

Simply the BEST Belgian Café in the United States Michael Jackson, Great Beers of Belgium

Top 5 Places in the World to have a beer All About Beer Magazine (January 2010)

Mightiest Mussels in America Maxim Magazine (August 2009)

We love this place! Tom Peters & Fergus Carey, Proprietors

Full Menu ʻtil 1AM Nightly The Soul of Belgium in The Heart of Philadelphia

16th & Spruce Philadelphia, PA 19102 USA 32

2010 LOCAL FOOD GUIDE

www.fairfoodphilly.org

• 215.545.7005 • monkscafe.com

Fit Farm Kids CooKing Camp for Ages 7 thru 15 Campers learn to prepare & cook healthy foods, plant, reap, compost & recycle. Recipes are 80% vegetarian.

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hen things come back, they’re rarely the same (see: former nerds at high school reunions, animals buried in Pet Cemetery). As people reconnect with food traditions, it’s inevitable that our modern sensibilities—and technologies—will inform the process. ¶ Philadelphia’s slow-local-sustainable food movement has spawned a new generation of local food artisans. They’re deeply committed to recalling the simple pleasures of the past, while finding more efficient and sustainable ways to operate. ¶ In this year’s Food Issue, you’ll read about Four Worlds Bakery’s new high tech oven—a marvel of insulation and engineering used to bake beautiful fresh loaves of old-world style bread.

You’ll learn about the advantage vacuum sealing gives Supper’s Mitch Prensky, a man with a passion for exotic, unexpected pickles. You’ll hear about the return of the regional artisan goat cheese producer—and the creative places they’re taking chevre. And, lastly, you’ll get some tips on becoming an artisan yourself through the lost art of jarring and canning.

The Challahman Com e th

n an unseasonably warm day in April, Four Worlds Bakery’s Michael Dolich is overseeing the installation of a serious oven. Three men (one of them an expert on this expensive and unwieldy piece of equipment) are straining their backs and sweating up a storm, moving a series of heavy racks made up of slender metal tubes into a box-like shape. In the middle of the floor is a massive pile of insulation. The bakery’s new crown jewel is a high-tech piece of machinery—a $30,000 oven that uses hot water to reach temperatures over 400 degrees—but it will be used to craft something simple, artisanal and perfect. Dolich hopes that humble, crusty perfection will be enough to lure people to this modest space on Woodland Avenue—Four Worlds’ first foray into life as a retail bakery. ¶ Dolich did not start out as a baker. For 10 years he worked as a litigator, practicing family law, personal injury law and mediating disputes. Then, eight years ago, he spent a summer at 18

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Michael Dolich sets out to revive the neighborhood bakery by lee stabert

Elat Chayyim, a Jewish retreat center in the Catskills. He was randomly assigned to work in the kitchen, baking fresh bread for 100 people at a time. He enjoyed the work, but as the summer wound down, he began to get a little antsy. “I quickly learned that if you bake fresh bread, people love it, whether it’s good or bad,” he explains. “I didn’t have a clue what I was doing, but I was making people really happy with it.”

But then Dolich tried something new: a recipe for sourdough bread. He went through the painstaking process of cultivating his own sourdough starter. That dough changed everything. “I was blown away by how fresh sourdough bread tastes,” he says. “I was instantly hooked. When I got back to the city, I couldn’t stop baking. I just baked, baked, baked.” Suddenly, there was a decision to be made: accept breadmaking as a hobby, or take the leap and learn how to do it professionally. Dolich took a job at Baker Street in Chestnut Hill and worked there for a year. “I was learning a lot,” he says. “I was also reconditioning my body, learning how to work with my body—that was a process. It was painful, being on my feet all day long. It’s hard work.” After a year spent back in the Catskills, Dolich went to work at Le Bec Fin’s bakery in Wayne, making croissants with a French master. With that new skill under his belt, he finally decided to strike out on his own, baking out of his house in West Philly. Using the moniker Challahman, Dolich sent out a weekly menu via email. Word spread quickly. Eager diners would order online and pick up fresh bread on his porch every Friday. Eventually, due to increasing demand, the business expanded to three days a week. In 2008, Four Worlds moved into Kaffa Crossing Café, sharing the space and expanding operations. With access to a commercial kitchen, Dolich began wholesaling croissants to cafés around the neighborhood. His croissants have gained a devoted following. “The trick to croissants is getting the right amount of fermentation in there,” explains Dolich. “The dough has to be super fermented in order to hold all that fat, and you want it to be really light and fluffy.” Each delectable crescent goes through a three-day process that involves the addition of old dough and a meticulous technique for sheeting and incorporating the butter.

Fermentation is Dolich’s passion—whether it’s his famous challah or those flaky croissants. “I love the taste of it,” he says. “It’s to the point now where, when I go out to eat, I never get bread. I can’t eat sandwiches out because to me it just tastes like cardboard. I’m so used to a really deep flavor in my bread. So, I’m milling my own grain and doing the best I can to get the best fermentation of the yeast. With the yeast, I’ve created an ecosystem that I keep alive; it’s great.” It should come as no surprise that Dolich is obsessive about the ingredients he uses for Four Worlds’ breads. As mentioned, he mills his own grains—commercially ground products just weren’t up to snuff. Four Worlds’ grain mills are about as far from factory mills as they come. “They’re small and they’re slow, which is perfect,” says Dolich. Back to that oven. If the goal is to make something that tastes like it came out of a wood-fired oven, why not just build one of those? “The problem with a brick oven is it’s so inefficient,” says Dolich. “You’ve got to heat it up—run a fire in there for eight hours; somebody’s got to tend that fire—and you only get maybe 10 or 11 bakes from one fire.” On the other hand, Four Worlds’ new oven is so efficient and well-insulated that it uses less energy to leave it on at night (maintaining the high heat) than to cool it down and reheat in the morning. Dolich’s passion and thoughtful nature informs everything Four Worlds does. When the new retail location finally opens, it will keep old world-style bakery hours, something that might prove difficult for many modern consumers. “The concept we’re shooting for here—and time will tell if it works or not—is to train people when there’s fresh bread,” reasons Dolich. “That way, we only have to be open three hours in the morning and maybe two or three hours in the evening. So, people come in the morning between six and nine o’clock when there’s croissants, bagels and baguettes, fresh right out of the oven.” Or they’ll learn to stop in on the way home from

work. “You’d be surprised to hear that when you go to retail bakeries, a lot of the stuff isn’t fresh— it’s baked maybe the evening before or the day before,” he continues. “Hopefully we get a line when we have fresh stuff, and then we sell out and we close. We have to train people and modify the way they buy bread.” Four Worlds’ staff reflects Dolich’s unorthodox approach. One of his bakers is an artist, the other a writer. “This is art,” he insists. “It’s art you can eat. It’s challenging to hire people because you want artists, but you also need people who are very practical and good with their hands—so I would actually say it’s half-art, half-menial labor. But you know, that physical exertion adds to the art.” Bread seems like such a simple thing. Maybe that’s why it’s so difficult to get it right—and so transcendent when you do. My personal experience with Four Worlds began with the challah. Picking up a beautifully braided, whole wheat loaf at the Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market, I felt it give beneath my hands in a way that was simultaneously tender and substantial. Made—like all Dolich’s breads—with that fermented sourdough starter, the traditional Sabbath bread had the most tremendous depth of flavor, and a transcendent texture. After pairing it with my meal, I couldn’t resist breaking off a few more pieces, slathering them in local butter and honey. Oh, the magic of flour and water. “I want people to get fresh, good quality bread,” says Dolich. “I want to bring back the neighborhood bakery. It’s an uphill battle, and the economics are really tough. I mean, best case scenario, if everything goes well, I’m still not going to make much money doing this, but it’s what I love.” ■

Four Worlds Bakery, 4634 Woodland Avenue, fourworldsbakery.com

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Nature Preserve Supper’s Mitch Prensky brings pickling into the modern era by lee stabert

arrots with passion fruit, saffron and garlic with cauliflower, barigoule and artichokes, turnips with Herbes de Provence, spicy pickled vegetables for báhn mi, kosher dill pickles, okra with sage, preserved lemons and oranges, mushrooms, apples, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, green beans and okra. That is just a short list of the things Mitch Prensky is pickling at his restaurant Supper. No, he doesn’t have a bunker for all those jars— though they would look awfully pretty, lined up in colorful rows. Instead he takes an assist from vacuum technology, streamlining and even improving, this neglected food tradition. Improving? Sounds like sacrilege, but the science behind his process has some interesting 20

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upsides. First off, there is the time factor. “The vacuum sealing extracts the air out of the mixture,” explains Prensky. “This breaks down the vegetable’s cell walls, forcing them to accept the pickling liquid.” The result: instead of waiting two or three days for something to pickle, he gets the same effect in 40 seconds. Texture is also a huge upside. To seal jars properly, they have to be submerged in boiling

water. The hot water ends up actually cooking the pickle slightly, so you get a softer pickle. “We can get the same result and the pickle is crunchier,” says Prensky. “It almost comes across as if it’s raw.” They use the same method with herbs and spinach—adding a little olive oil and vacuuming the greens. The result looks like it’s been blanched—it’s very green—but it’s still technically raw, preserving the vitamins and nutritional value. Pickling can be a farm-to-table chef’s best friend—it helps mitigate the frustrations of seasonal eating. “You take a vegetable that’s really great and you say, ‘OK, how can I serve this out of season?’” says Prensky. “Like fiddlehead ferns and ramps—we pickle them. Then we can phot os by ja s on va rn ey

People say, “How can you have this out of season?” Well, it’s a pickle—that’s why people did this in the first place. Before refrigerators, they needed it.

—Mitch Prensky serve them in September or October. People say, ‘How can you have this out of season?’ Well, it’s a pickle—that’s why people did this in the first place. Before refrigerators, they needed it.” Talking to Prensky, it’s clear that this stuff excites him. “I think my palate is very extreme,” he says. “I like really sweet stuff and I like really sour, bitter things, too. I really love the variety you can have when you’re making a pickle. You can pickle something with passion fruit, and you get something you wouldn’t expect. You can pickle something with curry. It adds another dimension to what we do here, which is handcrafted food. And, not wasting food, which is really important to me. You do a disservice to the people who grow the vegetables when you throw them out.” As for the source of those vegetables, Supper has come up with a novel solution for this year’s growing season: They have contracted with a local farm to supply them exclusively. In February, Prensky sat down with the family that owns Blue Elephant Farm and their horticulturalist to make

DaisyAd4.875x2.5

a list of the things they’d grow. (Some of his special requests: romanesco, arugula blossoms and baby corn for pickling.) “It’s really my dream come true—taking ‘farm to table’ to the nth degree,” enthuses Prensky. “We have them on retainer. And we’re also going to take all the extra food, pickle and preserve it, and give it back to the family.” Prensky has embraced vacuum sealing for Supper’s pickles, but his openness to new technologies has its limits—the technique has to make the food taste better. “I’m not an inventor; I’m a chef,” he emphasizes. “What’s the best method? What’s the shortest distance between two points? Sometimes it’s vacuum sealing, sometimes it’s just plain old braising—cooking like grandma— sometimes it’s putting something over an open flame. They’re all valid techniques when used

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properly. I’m aware of things—I read a lot, and I try to learn and incorporate techniques to see if we can do something better with it. If it doesn’t come out better, I’m not interested.” ■

Supper, 926 South Street, supperphilly.com

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Dairy Queens Amazing Acres Dairy produces local, artisanal chevre by tenaya darlington

ast May, Debbie Mikulak embarked on a lifelong dream—she became an artisanal goat cheese maker. With 19 goats and a little over five acres in Elverson, PA, she and her husband, Fred Bloom, now produce more than a dozen cheeses, including a French-style Banon wrapped in grape leaves and soaked in brandy. ¶ Mikulak, 61, developed an affection for goats back in second grade when she raised them for her 4-H club in North Central New Jersey. Over the years, she has raised goats and sheep. (“We just had them as pets,” she explains.) It wasn’t until 2003, when she and Bloom bought the farm in Elverson, that she took the plunge into cheese-making. They built a milking barn and cheese room from the ground up, and, in 2007, Mikulak completed a certification program at the Vermont Institute of Artisan Cheese (VIAC), a two-week program offered by the University of Vermont. ¶ To be considered “artisanal” in the cheese world requires a commitment to simplicity and purity. According to the American Cheese Society (ACS), artisanal cheese must be produced by hand, in small batches, with as little mechanization as possible. Mikulak makes cheese twice a week in the cheese room 22

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that she built under her ranch house, and each batch begins with a mere 20 to 25 gallons of fresh goat milk. She extends the care she puts into hand-making her cheese into tending her animals. “We keep our goat babies with their moms,” she explains. “Goats are very intelligent, so we think that bonding is important.” She is also passionate about staying small. “We don’t want to over-pasture our land. Plus, this is a retirement business for us,” she laughs. “We’ve been wanting a goat dairy for 25 years.” To start, Mikulak made chevre—fresh unaged goat cheese. “People told me that was the easiest,” she says. She now offers 12 varieties, including a roasted garlic version topped with a clove of her own homegrown goodness. Later, she moved on to bloomy cheeses (featuring with a soft, white rind), such as Sea Smoke, which Mikulak named after the fog in Maine, a place where she has vacationed. It bears resemblance to Humboldt Fog, an award-winning goat cheese from California’s Cypress Grove Dairy, considered by many to be the country’s premier goat cheese producer. “Fewer people make the bloomy rinds or aged goat cheeses,” Mikulak told me one afternoon, taking a break from an affinage (the process of ripening cheeses) conference she was attending. “Or so I’m told. Right now I’m working on a Boucheron, and I’d like to make Camembert.” Mikulak likes the mild taste of the milk produced by her Nubians; she selected the breed, in part, for this trait. During the summer, they graze on grass, and in winter, Mikulak feeds them hay and grains. Her cheese reflects the quality of her goats’ diet—Amazing Acres chevre is light, grassy and lemony without the pronounced tang that afflicts some goat cheeses. As for her recipes, Mikulak follows traditional guidelines for each style of cheese, tweaking them along the way. “I love to cook and create,” she says. “I’m always experimenting.” ■

Goat Cheese

Pairings Beer: Crack open a bottle of Philadelphia Brewing Company’s Walt Wit alongside a wedge of Amazing Acres’ Sea Smoke. The bright notes of this unfiltered wheat ale work wonders alongside complex, slightly acidic goat cheese. Wine: For fresh or slightly aged goat cheese, try a fruity, highacid white wine, like Pinot Grigio or Chenin Blanc (Vouvray), or a dry rosé. Debbie Mikulak likes to keep it local with a glass of Spiced Apple Wine from Chester County’s Black Walnut Winery, alongside her chipotle goat cheese.

the rise of local goat cheese

n Pennsylvania and other states around the country, goat cheese is undergoing a renaissance. In her recent book, Goat Cheese (Gibbs Smith, 2008), Maggie Foard points out that, nationally, the number of licensed goat dairies has jumped from “a handful” 20 years ago to “over 200” in 2007. Part of this growth stems from demand, particularly from consumers who are lactose-intolerant. “Goat cheese is easier to digest than cow’s milk,” Mikulak explains. “The fat globules are smaller and more even in size.”

opposite Debbie Mikaluk and Fred Bloom of Amazing Acres Goat Dairy make a statement above Goats from Amazing Acres below Products from Shellbark Hollow

In the Philadelphia area, several established goat cheese artisans supply local markets and cheese counters. Stop by Headhouse Farmers’ Market some Sunday and you’re likely to meet Elly Hushour of Nazareth, PA, who has been making goat cheese since the ’80s under the name Patches of Star. Her goat havarti and queso fresco are also popular at the Union Square Greenmarket in New York. At the Saturday Piazza Farmers’ Market in Northern Liberties, you won’t have to look hard to find the crowd gathered around Shellbark Hollow’s stand. Pete Demchur and his family produce awardwinning goat cheese in West Chester, and their spreadable chevres and sharp goat cheeses are sold at Di Bruno Bros. and at Reading Terminal Market’s Fair Food Farmstand. “There are some wonderful goat cheese producers in Pennsylvania—some old, some new,” says Paul Lawler of the Fair Food Farmstand, pointing out several newcomers such as Amazing Acres and Yellow Springs Farm of Chester County. The latter, a native plant nursery, offers an artisanal goat cheese CSA. This Community Supported Agriculture program offers members a dozen allotments of goat cheese— both fresh pasteurized and aged raw—over the course of six months. ■

Serving Ideas: Because it’s light and mild, chevre goes well with sweet or savory accompaniments. Sprinkle it on salads, crumble it over scrambled eggs, or use it to stuff hot pickled peppers or cherry tomatoes. On a cheese board, serve soft goat cheese with honey and toasted pine nuts, or dazzle it up with fresh herbs, lemon zest and edible flowers. You can also warm goat cheese in the oven and drizzle it with olive oil and cracked pepper.

Get Your Goat

Amazing Acres Goat Dairy amazingacresgoatdairy.com Available directly from the dairy, or at Di Bruno Bros., Talula’s Table in Kennett Square and other small markets. Try Debbie Mikulak’s Sea Smoke, Fromagina (similar to ricotta) or Crottin. Patches of Star Dairy, LLC weaseljava.com/POS/ Available at the Headhouse Farmers’ Market. Try Elly Hushour’s goat havarti, queso fresco and goat’s milk gelato. Shellbark Hollow Farm shellbarkhollow.com Available at the Piazza Farmers’ Market, the Chestnut Hill Farmers’ Market, Di Bruno Bros. and the Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market. Try the Demchur family’s new aged Crottin de Chevre and herbmarinated goat cheeses.

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Jarhead Becoming a home artisan is easier than you think

by marisa mcclellan

ire-roasted tomatoes. Vanilla-rhubarb jam. Plums in honey. Preserved Seckel pears. No, this isn’t the inventory list of some new upscale grocery—these are just a few of the foodstuffs I preserved last summer and have been happily eating all winter long. ¶ Home canning is the latest vintage culinary skill to experience a revival, particularly with the younger, urban set. Folks from coast to coast are rediscovering how satisfying it can be to put up pickles and eat jam made with their own hands. Will this be your summer to start canning? To become an artisan yourself? History Lesson Home canning is a method of food preservation that has been popular in the United States since the late 1850s, when John L. Mason invented the first reusable jar with a screw-on lid. We know them today as Mason (imagine that!) or Ball jars. Canning technology has gradually improved since, and in 1915, Alexander H. Kerr came up with the two-part canning lid—a descendant of which is used to this day. The mechanics behind canning are fairly simple. You fill a clean jar with jam, pickles or whole fruit in syrup, apply the flat lid and the threaded ring to the jar, and submerge the filled jar in boiling water for a prescribed amount of time (times vary widely, depending on what you’re canning). When you remove the hot jar from the water, the heat begins to escape, taking with it any air left in the jar. The escaping oxygen pulls the lid down, creating an airtight seal. A food-safe sealing compound embedded into the lid aids in the maintenance of the seal. High acid food preserved in this manner will stay delicious for up to a year. In the last 60-plus years, as the majority of food production became industrialized and the full-service grocery store became the norm, home canning experienced a drastic drop-off in popularity. It went from being a seasonal necessity—how else would you preserve the bounty of your kitchen garden and fruit trees?—to a neglected art, still practiced in more rural areas, but nearly abandoned by city dwellers. But as concerns over food miles, pesticides, unsustainable farming practices and chemicals in commercially packaged foods have emerged, a segment of the population has rediscovered home food preservation as a way to reclaim control over their stored, shelf-stable foods. Happily, the rise of urban farmers’ markets, Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs, buying clubs and community gardens has made it increasingly easy to obtain bountiful amounts of seasonal, locally-grown fruits and vegetables for canning. 24

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Get Started To get started, let go of anything you’ve heard about canning being scary or dangerous. Right now, we’re only talking about the home canning high-acid things like jams, pickles, tomatoes and fruit in syrup. Botulism, that fearsome bacterium, cannot grow in high-acid environments. This means that it can not possibly develop in your carefully canned strawberry jam. You can safely share it with impressed friends, content in the knowledge that it will cause them no harm. Now to the canning—first, take stock of your current kitchen supplies. You’ll want to gather some tongs, a wide-mouth funnel, a variety of measuring cups and, if you’re feeling really committed, a jar lifter. (If you’re going to do a lot of canning, I recommend this tool; it’s saved me from a number of hot water burns over the years.) A large, wide, non-reactive pot like an enameled Dutch oven is a good vessel for cooking jams and jellies. A deep stockpot can easily stand in for a dedicated canning pot (even better if you have a small, round rack to sit at the bottom of the pot). A generous stack of kitchen towels is always incredibly helpful. Now that you have your tools in place, some tips to set you off on the right path: → → Work with the freshest produce around. Take care not to purchase more than you can process in a 48-hour period. → → Always can what’s in season. In the Philadelphia area, that means you make your pickled asparagus in May, strawberry jam in June and put up as many tomatoes as you can manage during August and September. → → It can be a challenge to keep your pickles crisp. Cut off the blossom end of cucumbers and slip a grape or cherry leaf into each jar for optimum crunch. → → When making any sweet preserve with bits of fruit or peel in it, stir it off the heat for at least a minute when the cooking time is up. This helps evenly distribute those bits

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throughout. → → When processing your canned goods, never

start your timer until the water has returned to a boil. → → If your recipe calls for a processing time of 10 minutes or longer, you do not have to use sterilized jars, just clean ones. If the processing is less than that, make sure to sterilize the jars by boiling them for 10 minutes. → → Never pour hot preserves into cold jars. The heat shock can cause the jars to break. → → Once the jars have cooled completely, always check to ensure that they’ve sealed tightly. Do this by removing the band and gently wiggling the lid. A good seal means that it will not budge. → → Always store jars in a cool, dark place without the bands. This allows you to more easily see any bad seals or bulging lids. Why Can? Admittedly, home canning isn’t for everyone. However, for those bitten by the preserving bug, it can be deeply satisfying. It offers an opportunity to engage with one’s personal food supply in a far more active way than is typical in mainstream American culture. It raises awareness of the seasonal cycle of fruits and vegetables. And, if done right, it makes affordable high-quality, handmade food products. We all know that artisanally-made products are currently in vogue. And yes, it’s always a delight to be able to buy from craftspeople who make their living by practicing their arts. However, an addiction to $8 half-pints of handmade marmalade can quickly start to break the grocery budget. Canning provides the opportunity to make your own unique, small-batch goods, enlivening your toast, yogurt and sandwiches all year round. What’s more, a well-stocked pantry of home canned goods means that you always have a quick birthday or housewarming gift within easy reach.

No matter what your reason for canning, you’ve made something that tastes good and, when eaten in January or February, it will be a powerful reminder that the time of abundance will return again. ■

Marisa McClellan teaches seasonal canning classes; visit foodinjars.com for more dates and times.

Strawberry Jam Makes seven pints

10 cups of chopped strawberries 7 cups of sugar 2 lemons, zested and juiced 2 packets of liquid pectin (that’s one box total)

Prepare your canning pot by filling it twothirds full with water and bringing it to a boil. When it boils, turn the heat down and keep it at a simmer. Place the lids in a saucepan of warm water and bring them to a gentle simmer, in order to soften the sealing compound. Put berries, sugar, the lemon zest and lemon juice in a large (at least six quarts), non-reactive pot and cook over high heat for 15 to 20 minutes. Boil the fruit until it develops a syrupy consistency. Reduce the heat and, using an immersion blender or potato masher, break down some of the fruit. Be careful not to over-blend if you’re using an immersion blender. Raise the heat back to high and bring the jam to a boil. Once it has reached a sustained rolling boil, squeeze in the pectin. Let boil for approximately 10 minutes, until the jam looks thick and viscous. Lay out your clean jars. Fill the jars. Wipe the rims with the edge of a towel dipped in boiling water. Top with lids and screw on rings. Carefully lower the jars into the boiling water. When using small jars, you can stack them one on top

of the other if need be. Process for 10 minutes in the boiling water bath (don’t start your timer until the canning pot returns to a boil). When time is up, remove the jars from the water and put them on a towellined counter. They should begin to ping fairly quickly, indicating that they’re sealed. If any of your jars don’t seal, make sure to refrigerate them. Once sealed, the jam will last on the pantry shelf for up to one year (of course, it rarely lasts that long).

Asian-Inspired Quick Pickles Makes one quart

5-6 Kirby (pickling) cucumbers, each cut into six spears 1 chili pepper 1 cup seasoned rice wine vinegar (look for a brand that uses sugar instead of high fructose corn syrup; Trader Joe’s makes a good one) 2 limes, juiced 3-4 scallions, chopped (greens and whites) 2 garlic cloves, sliced 4 sprigs of mint, chopped 1/2 tsp. salt

Pack the cucumber spears into a quart jar. Slide the chili pepper down in among the cucumber spears. In a 2-cup measuring cup, combine the rice wine vinegar, lime juice, scallions, garlic cloves, mint and salt. Pour over the cucumbers. Using your fingers, poke some of the garlic slivers, mint and scallion down among the cucumbers. Screw a lid on the jar, and, holding it over the sink (in case of leaks), invert the jar and give it a good shake, in order to distribute all the delicious bits. Let your pickles sit in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours before eating.

Pickled Garlic Scapes Makes two pints

1 ½ pounds of garlic scapes 2 tbsp. pickling spice blend 1 ½ cups apple cider vinegar 1 ½ cups water 2 tbsp. kosher salt

Prepare your canning pot by filling it twothirds full with water and bringing it to a boil. When it boils, turn the heat down and keep it at a simmer. Place the lids in a saucepan of warm water and bring them to a gentle simmer, in order to soften the sealing compound. Measure one tablespoon of pickling spice into the bottom of each jar. Wash and trim the garlic scapes. Fill the jars with garlic scapes using one of two methods: Either chop them into two-inch lengths and pack them in, or go with the naturally curly nature of the scapes and swirl them into the jars. (This technique will leave some empty space in the center of the jar, which you can then fill with shorter bits of scapes). When your jars are filled, make the brine. In a medium saucepot, combine the vinegar, water and salt. Bring to a simmer, stirring until the salt is dissolved. Using a wide-mouth funnel, pour the brine over the garlic scapes, making sure to leave half an inch of headspace (that’s the amount of room between the top of the brine and the rim of the jar). Using a chopstick or plastic knife (you don’t want to use metal on jars that will be processed in a boiling water bath), work the air bubbles out from around the garlic scapes. When all the air bubbles have been removed, wipe the rims of the jars with a clean towel to remove any spilled brine. Apply the simmered lids and screw the bands on. Process in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes (starting the timer when the pot returns to a boil). When the

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/recipes

Recipe Box These fresh, easy recipes are perfect for the upcoming season of seaside snacking and backyard barbecues by marisa mcclellan, foodinjars.com

Whole Grain Strawberry Shortcake Makes six shortcakes Biscuits

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour 1 ½ tsp. double acting baking powder ½ tsp. salt 1 tbsp. cane sugar 3 tbsp. cold butter 1/3 cup cold milk Strawberries

1 quart strawberries, washed and sliced 2 tbsp. cane sugar Whipped Cream

½ pint of heavy whipping cream 2 tbsp. cane sugar

Cucumber and Red Onion Salad 1 English cucumber or 3 smaller Kirby cucumbers ½ red onion ½ cup seasoned rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp. olive oil 1 tsp. dried dill ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. garlic powder 5-6 grinds of pepper

Wash and cut the cucumber into thin half moons. If you can’t find English or Kirby cu26

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cumbers, conventional slicing cucumbers will also work. However, they’ll need to be peeled and de-seeded. Cut the red onion into thin slivers. (Scallions and spring onions can also be substituted.) Combine the cut cucumbers and onions in a medium serving bowl. Whisk together the dressing ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Pour the dressing over the vegetables and stir to combine. Allow the salad to sit for at least 10 minutes prior to serving so the flavors have a chance to marry.

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Preheat your oven to 425 degrees. Sift the dry ingredients together. Using a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour mixture until it is in small bits. Add the milk, stir together with a wooden spoon until just combined. Turn out onto a clean board or countertop. Knead for 30 seconds and then pat the dough out so it’s approximately half an inch thick. Using a clean glass or biscuit cutter, cut the dough into rounds. Lay out on an ungreased cookie sheet and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the tops are brown and the biscuits have puffed up tall. While the biscuits cook, toss the chopped strawberries together with the sugar. Set aside for a few minutes, so the strawberries get nice and juicy. Using a hand mixer, whip the cold cream into soft peaks, adding the sugar at the very end. To assemble, cut the cooled biscuits in half. Place the bottom biscuit on a plate and heap on a layer of strawberries. Top with a spoonful of whipped cream. Balance the top half of the biscuit on the cream. Repeat with layers of strawberries and cream. Serve immediately. ■

6/30/2010

Best Prenatal Massage

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May

Foraging Farm Tour with Wildman Steve Brill

Go for a two-hour walk around Pennypack Farm & Education Center and learn how to forage for berries, greens, medicinal herbs and seeds. Wildman Steve Brill will lead the way as you tackle wild foods. →→ May 22, 1 – 3 p.m., Pennypack Farm &

Education Center, 685 Mann Rd., Horsham, 215-646-3943, visit pennypackfarm.org/ education to register

May 15

May

Spotted Hill Farm Fest: A Celebration of Country Life

If the hustle and bustle of the big city has got you itching for a taste of the simple country life, Spotted Hill Farm’s first-ever Farm Fest is the event for you. Children and adults alike can interact with the farm’s many animals and enjoy music, games, food, a plant sale and goods from local farmers and craftspeople. Rain or shine. →→ May 15, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., Spotted Hill Farm,

530 Colebrookdale Rd., Boyertown, spottedhillfarm.com

May 15 16

→→ May 15–16, 11 a.m. – 6 p.m., Penn’s Landing

Great Plaza, Columbus Blvd. btwn. Walnut and Chestnut Sts., artstarcraftbazaar.com

Bicycle Coalition Urban Riding Basics at Wooden Shoe Books

Just because you dropped the training wheels at age six doesn’t mean you know the ins and outs of bike lanes, traffic rules and drivers with road rage. Join the Bicycle Coalition for an informative class and discussion on the Basics of Urban Riding. →→ May 20, 7 – 8:30 p.m., Wooden Shoe Books,

704 South St., bicyclecoalition.org

May 21

DVGBC A View from the Top: Green Roof Tour & Presentation

Starting in July 2010, the Philadelphia Water Department will begin collecting stormwater fees based on the amount of surface area covered in impenetrable materials such as asphalt, concrete and stone. Installing a green roof is one way to avoid this fee. See them up close and learn about the benefits at this event. →→ May 21, $25 DVGBC members; $35 non-

members; $15 students, 1 p.m. – 4:30 p.m., visit dvgbc.org to register (deadline May 19)

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→→ May 26, 6 – 8 p.m., $18 members;

$23 non-members, Chanticleer, 786 Church Rd., Wayne, 215-988-8869, pennsylvaniahorticulturalsociety.org

Featuring over 100 artists and crafters, Art Star’s annual event is sure to provide you with your handmade goodies fix. The handpicked artists will offer a wide array of wares, including paper goods, ceramics, clothing, paintings and sculpture.

May

Why buy bouquets of flowers when you can create beautiful arrangements from what’s growing outside your door? A Chanticleer horticulturist will guide you through techniques for creating seasonal flower arrangements.

May

Art Star Craft Bazaar 2010

Chanticleer Demonstration: Flower Arranging From the Garden

Delaware Valley Earth Force Green Scavenger Hunt

Leave the shovels and maps at home— you won’t actually be searching on this scavenger hunt. Instead, come ready to taste locally-grown food, explore new and renovated green houses and learn more about Philadelphia’s quest to become the “Greenest City in America.” →→ May 23, $23 Adult Early Bird registration;

$13 Child Early Bird, 10 a.m. – 2 p.m., City Hall, 1 Penn Sq., 215-884-9888, visit earthforce.org/section/offices/delval/ dvevents to register

June 5

Creatures of the Abyss

The depths of the world’s oceans are home to some of the most beautiful and strange creatures on earth. The “Creatures of the Abyss” exhibit will take you on a journey through this unimaginable world. →→ June 5 – Sept. 6, Academy of Natural

Sciences, 1900 Benjamin Franklin Pkwy., 215-299-1000, ansp.org

June 5

Generate. Degenerate.

The challenge: to make and perform a multimedia piece using only sustainable energy. The result: a revolutionary and intimate performance powered by a bike. Held in conjunction with the SCEE’s opening reception for “Elemental Energy: Art Powered by Nature.” →→ June 5, 8:30 p.m., The Schuylkill Center

for Environmental Education, 8480 Hagy’s Mill Rd., call 215-482-7300 ext. 110 to register, schuylkillcenter.org/events; mirodancetheatre.org

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June 6

Philly Fun Ride

Part Philadelphia International Cycling Championship, this 14-mile lap of the race’s route will give you a chance to test your skills before the competition starts. Here’s your chance to take on the world-famous Manayunk Wall. →→ June 6, 7 – 9 a.m., more details and route

map available at procyclingtour.com/ phillyfunride.htm

June 12

Satellite Second Saturday

Presented by VIX Emporium and the Satellite Café, this monthly arts-andcrafts event features handmade creations by local artists. This month, make your own terrarium at VIX with Beth Richey while enjoying live music and refreshments. →→ June 12, 11 a.m. – 5 p.m., The Firehouse,

50th and Baltimore Sts., call 215-471-7700 to pre-register for the terrarium workshop, vixemporium.com

June 13

15th Annual Arts in the Park

Starting in July 2010, the PWD will begin collecting stormwater fees based on the amount of surface area covered in impenetrable materials such as asphalt, concrete and stone. Installing a green roof is one way to avoid this fee. See them up close and learn about the benefits at this event. →→ June 6, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. (rain date: June 13),

$3 suggested donation; children are free, High School Park, between Montgomery Ave. and High School Rd., Elkins Park, 215-7828082, highschoolpark.org

June 18

DVGBC Green Schools Tour

Local schools are going green. Imagine the possibilities during this DVGBC tour of Germantown Friends and Harriton High Schools. →→ June 18, 11:30 a.m. – 6 p.m., $20 members;

$30 non-members, Germantown Friends School, 31 W. Coulter St.; Harriton High School, 600 N. Ithan Ave., Rosemont, 215399-5790, visit dvgbc.org/education/view/ green-schools-tour-0 to register

June 19

Linvilla Orchards Raspberry Festival

Nothing signals the arrival of summer better than vine-ripened berries, especially if you pick them yourself. At this midday festival, you can pick the orchard’s in-season produce, sample local foods, dance to live music, feed some furry friends and shop the large farmers’ market. →→ June 19, 9 a.m. – 6 p.m., $25, Linvilla

Orchards Entertainment Garden, 137 W. Knowlton Rd., Media, 610-876-7116, linvilla.com

June 19

CDC Bowling Ball

Join the Community Design Collaborative at their 14th annual fundraising event. Enjoy raffle prizes, snacks and collectable CDC pint glasses, whether you choose to bowl by day, attend the mixer or bowl by night. →→ June 19, Bowl by day: 4 – 6 p.m.; Mixer:

7 – 8 p.m.; Bowl by night: 8 – 11 p.m., AMF Boulevard Lanes, 8011 Roosevelt Blvd., bowlingball.eventbrite.com

June 20

From Beaks to Feathers: Birding 101

June 22

Cooking Asian Greens

Interested in becoming a birder, but not sure where to get started? This program will teach interested ornithologists the birding basics. Test out your skills on Briar Bush Nature Center’s trails and in the Bird Observatory.

Ever picked up a bunch of bok choy and wondered what to do with the rubbery green leaves? What about tatsoi? Learn how to select and prepare these delectable greens—your taste buds and health will reap the benefits.

→→ June 20, 12:30 – 1:30 p.m., $5 per person;

→→ June 22, 7 p.m., $15, Pennypack Farm and

$10 for a family of four, Briar Bush Nature Center, 1212 Edge Hill Rd., Abington, 215887-9079, briarbush.org

Education Center, 685 Mann Rd., Horsham, 215-646-3943, visit pennypackfarm.org/ education to register

URBANSUSTAINABILITYFORUM

Featuring: < Chris Mooney Author of Unscientific America: How Scientific Illiteracy Threatens Our Future

Who Will Tell The People: Science and Sustainability in the Media

Alex Mulcahy

Thursday, May 20

Publisher of Grid Magazine

6:00- 6:30 p.m. Reception 6:30- 8:30 p.m. Program Academy of Natural Sciences 19th St. and Benjamin Franklin Parkway

Beth McConnell

Executive Director of the Media and Democracy Coalition

Visit ansp.org for more information

Moderated by: Sandy Shea

Philadelphia Daily News Editorial Page Editor

electric bike sales + service take on the hills G go further have more fun! savor the e-bike experience with free test rides 22 models G starting at $550 authorized Trek Ride+ dealer

550 Carpenter Lane G Philadelphia PA 215.821.9266 www.phillyew.com

Highwire Gallery &

Frantz

Piekema

Eric Frantz Present

June 4th- 28th

First Friday Opening Reception

Tymowczak

Moloney

2 0 4 0 F r a n k f o r d Av e n u e • w w w. h i g h w i r e g a l l e r y. c o m

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by tenaya darlington

Greatest Hits

ome people geek out over wine. Others, old vinyl. For me, it’s cheese. The stinky stuff. Stilton. Fontina. Époisses. When I meet a strong cheese, it stops me cold, the way hearing a new song on the radio can make you pull over the car, motivated by a desire to really listen. You don’t forget those moments: the first time you heard Led Zeppelin or the night a neighbor let you borrow the Kinks. Me, I never had those moments—we didn’t listen to rock ‘n’ roll in my house, only classical—but I remember the wild cheeses we ate, and they still sing to me. ¶ I remember eating Raclette when I was five, a pungent melter that my Swiss grandparents served with boiled potatoes around the holidays. We’d sit around the table all evening, toasting potato rounds, scraping melted cheese onto our plates, the adults laughing and talking in a guttural language. Raclette will always recall those evenings in Cleveland, when my grandparents were still young and I wore barrettes. Raclette, to me, is youth.

When I was a teenager, I liked to host parties for my friends. My father would roll the pop-up camper into the driveway, and we’d stay up all night playing cards, dressed in wild and strange costumes. One night, I brought a wedge of caveaged Gruyère into our cramped haven, stinking up the place. “It smells like feet! Get it out of here,” my friend Jodi wailed. I was so accustomed to the smell that I didn’t even notice. I walked the cheese back to the house, head hung low, ashamed of my parents’ taste. It didn’t matter that I was wearing a purple wig. Yeah, Gruyère—it will always smell like adolescence. At college, I got into fondue. I met people who shared my taste for strong cheese, mostly English and Classics majors. When I showed up with a wedge of Fontina, people got excited, hiding their bricks of shrink-wrapped supermarket cheddar in shame and breaking out the $12 wine—big bucks in those days. We made fondue using my grandmother’s Swiss recipe, blending Emmentaler, Fontina, kirsch and nutmeg. Those were halcyon days. Fontina will always conjure ripped jeans and funny hats, studying the Romantics and saving up for a rich, fruity wedge to share with friends. Then I moved to Wisconsin, a cheese lover’s wonderland. Goat cheese rolled in ash was my latest revelation. I still remember sitting on the grass at a farmers’ market in Madison, eating a whole pack of Fantome Farm’s goat cheese rolled in black dust. It was subtler than the cheeses of my youth, lemony and light—I had found my new Peppermint Pattie, a real breath freshener. Now, whenever I visit my family, we eat this cheese together. We simply refer to it as “candy.” Five years ago, I transplanted my Midwestern roots to Philadelphia. I found Di Bruno Brothers and made fast friends with a crew of tattooed cheesemongers. Here were people that spoke my language, who took cheese seriously. Each spring, to commemorate my move, I go down to South Philly and blow some bills on strong cheese. It’s not just because I love the taste (though I do)—I know those pungent flavors will serve as a marker for remembering the year to come. The year I bought my first house in Philly was the year of Stilton. I ate it slathered on bread with chutney at the Mann Center that spring. The year I gave up my car, I went through a Caerphilly phase—oh, the Welsh and their hard, aged wheels! And now, in my fifth spring, I have discovered an unforgettable raw milk, washed-rind cheese from Connecticut called, oh yes, Hooligan. It tastes like a blast of backwoods wind, mixed with the smell of rural dive bar, right down to the peanut shells ground into the floor. One bite, and I was transported home. By the second bite, I was dancing. ■

Tenaya Darlington writes the blog Madame Fromage (madamefromage.blogspot.com) and leads occasional cheese tastings at Quince Fine Foods (209 W. Girard Ave.). 30

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illus t r at ion by jim ti ern ey

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