4 minute read
Under the Grill with Gordon Ramsay
“Edinburgh was the perfect choice as it holds a very special place in my heart.”
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The first Scottish outlet of Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen & Bar opened recently in St Andrew’s Square, Edinburgh. The Scots-born celebrity chef and restaurateur spoke exclusively to Taste Magazine Scotland during time between recording a TV series in Los Angeles …
by Cate Devine
Why did you choose Edinburgh as your new Scottish venture?
Our first Bread Street Kitchen in Scotland was either going to be in Glasgow or Edinburgh. Edinburgh holds a very special place in my heart: it was where the Queen awarded my OBE back in 2006.
Edinburgh was the perfect choice. There’s something quite energising about it because of the history, the backdrop of the Castle and being surrounded by the most stunning countryside just 20 minutes or so away.
And it’s the produce, whether it’s hand-dived scallops from the West Coast of Scotland or the beef or venison from East Lothian or even the local vegetables.
But it was also the location. It’s in a great situation and has access to a lot of footfall. It’s important to not be too off the beaten track. And then there’s the competition! I love the fact of the successes, from Dishoom to the Ivy next to us at BSK … it says a lot about what Edinburgh is about, and how thriving it is.
Describe the “completely new vibe” that Bread Street Kitchen promises to bring to Edinburgh?
It’s about the quality of breaking bread. The last 18 months has been the toughest in the industry but more importantly the toughest for families. BSK will absolutely allow us to once again to celebrate great food in a great atmosphere.
And it’s all-day dining. We’re getting rid of that pretentious 12-2pm and 7pm-10pm. Customers vote with their feet and if they vote with their feet they should decide when they want to eat. ‘Vote with your feet, decide when you want to eat.’ That’s f***ing great!
Have you noticed changes in the eating-out scene in Scotland?
I’ve noticed so much. First of all that chefs, female and male, are prolific and prominent and it’s not about a divide between England and Scotland. We’re united from seeing these chefs on the Great British Menu and the 50 Best Restaurants and seeing what remote locations are doing to the culinary world. It’s so exciting.
Hence the reason [for coming to Scotland]. It’s my roots. I’m going back home. So this for me is somewhat unique. We’re not desperately striving to be the best, or the best restaurant in Scotland. We want to be part of the best scene in Scotland.
Do you have plans for future Bread Street Kitchen & Bar openings in Scotland?
We do. There’s an ambition to open more. But first I want to focus on getting this one right, from Dan to the team, before announcing anything.
BSK Edinburgh’s executive head chef Dan Ashmore, 31, has worked in top fine-dining restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Restaurant Tom Aikens and The Square in London, Michelin-starred Number One at the Balmoral, Dean Banks at The Pompadour in Edinburgh and the Strathearn at Gleneagles Hotel, Perthshire.
He describes being appointed executive head chef of Bread Street Kitchen & Bar in Edinburgh as his “dream job”.
“Getting the chance to work alongside the person who influenced me to pick up an apron from an early age and start a career as a chef isn’t something that comes along every day,” he said.
Most popular dish so far?
Most definitely the Beef Wellington [Gordon Ramsay’s signature dish]. In our first week of business we were serving up to 35 a day – even at £48 per person.
Is the menu exceptionally expensive, as some commentators have suggested?
The prices reflect what we pay for quality ingredients and cooking it with lots of love and care. I’ve paid more and received worse.
How important is sourcing Scottish?
Very. For me, and for guests, sourcing local is massively important, as is building and maintaining a good relationship with our suppliers. I’m not phoning an anonymous central supplier in London. I communicate every day with our local suppliers. It’s a symbiotic relationship, and it adds an extra layer of accountability. Their reputation is as important as ours.
Do you get to devise your own dishes?
Yes. The core recipes are the same no matter which outlet of BSK you are eating in. That consistency lends a homely feeling. But the head chef of each branch of BSK does their own signature dish to highlight provenance and local.
Mine is the Cullen Skink with a twist: a touch of whisky, fresh Shetland mussels, curry powder, saffron and proper smoked North Sea haddock – not the fake yellow dyed stuff. We will always do a ‘specials’ option of local dishes. You won’t get that or our West Coast langoustines or haggis bites in London BSKs, for example.
Tell us the most important lesson you’ve learned from Gordon Ramsay?
Bread Street Kitchen & Bar is at 4 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 2BD (www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/bread-streetkitchen/edinburgh/)
