Reina Guzman 10/23/2013 Intro to Fashion Business Designer Analysis: Vivienne Westwood Born in Glossop, Derbyshire on April 8, 1941, Vivienne Isabel Swire came from humble beginnings. Her father was a cobbler and her mother worked at a cotton mill. No one would have guessed that Vivienne Westwood would become not only one of the most outspoken fashion designers to date but also a punk legend and a human rights advocate. Vivienne Westwood’s life started off about as average and average gets. By age 17 she had moved to the new town Harrow and begun working at a local factory. Having grown up in the Industrial Revolution Westwood didn’t see how a woman like herself could ever make a living off of art so she enrolled in a teacher training school. In her early twenties Vivienne married Derek Westwood and had her first son, Ben. At this point in her life Westwood was teaching and seemed to have settled down. Little did she know her life had just begun. Westwood’s marriage with Derek fell apart and she met the man that would introduce her to her true passion, Malcolm McLaren. McLaren was involved in arts and music. He showed Westwood the power that art could have in politics and opened many doors for her. Together they opened now named “Worlds End.” The shop carried everything from ripped shirts, spiked pants, to bondage gear. Both Westwood and McLaren were strongly inspired by rebellion and
50’s clothing. The shop was an important stepping stone for Vivienne and remains a landmark for her brand today. Westwood’s designs hit the catwalk in 1981 with her Pirate Collection, a significant collection to date in London’s fashion scene. The romantic and exciting collection showed fellow colleagues what Vivienne was about; having fun, being bold, and doing what you believe in. This collection and the following would have historical and Third World influences. Westwood’s inspiration from historical dress and Native American cuts is something we saw both in the 80s and still see now. Westwood isn’t afraid to fit her men and put baggy bum like clothing on her women. She shifts necklines and reveals a shoulder on a woman’s suit without thinking twice and while she’s at it she adds some plaids. From the beginning Westwood has been innovative and daring. She developed cutting techniques based on rectangles that gave her silhouettes a different form than that which we had seen in the hippie movement. It’s fascinating to see the developments in Westwood’s brand. She’s consistently herself and it really shows collection after collection. Even just in her collection’s names “Savage” and “Hypnos” you can see the consistency and the genuineness with which she produces her work. As a fashion design student I’ve studied other designers in the past and an observation I’ve made and have seen repeated is when a designer first hits the scene as Westwood did with Pirates their collections are unique and very true to their personal design aesthetic. I guess you could say it’s dense in its uniqueness to that particular designer. I’ve observed that as trends change and the designer progresses in their career many times that uniqueness starts to fade a little bit sometimes to conform to industry and sale. Of course there are designers who are an exception to this such as McQueen for example. When I study Vivienne Westwood’s collections I don’t so much see
the developments of American or European fashions or cultures I see her personal developments. Her clothes are consistently her both as a designer and as a person. In 2011 Westwood went to Africa to work on her Ethical Fashion Africa Autumn/Winter collection. Westwood conducted a program that enlisted thousands of local women. The women used their skills to produce bags for Westwood and gave them the opportunity to earn fair wages. Westwood stated of the program “This project gives people control over their lives. Charity doesn’t give control, it does the opposite, it makes people dependent” (Vogue Biography). I think this act, along with many other human rights work that Westwood has been active in, show not only who Westwood is but who she designs for. Vivienne designs for a hardworking independent woman. She creates the dress of a woman who speaks up and creates her own future. Intelligent and informed Westwood tells us in an interview with Ecouterre “If people like my clothes, it’s good if they don’t buy things for six months, then they’ll be able to afford them.” I think it’s safe to say that Westwood is also very much designing for a market of eco-friendly, conscious, and well off fashion enthusiasts. A dress in her red label can and will easily begin at $500 with sizes ranging from 38-48 in womens. There is broader price range in her accessories and jewelry but overall prices are more so in the $200-$1600 range. Westwood’s fabric choices vary depending on season. One reoccurring fabric I observed that is a staple for her is wool. Westwood uses wool in all types of fabrics and knits. This is a fiber that has been prominent in Vivienne’s collections from the start and plays a strong role in her looks to this day. Her garments can be purchased on line or in store. Vivienne Westwood has stores in 16 different countries ranging from Austria, Japan, Singapore, UK, and USA.
Westwood has inspired both established and new designers to stay true to themselves and to have fun and use their voice. She made a strong impact when she first came out in the early 80s and has continued to do so season after season never losing sight or letting you forget who she is and what she stands for. As fashion enthusiast and as a woman I think that’s incredibly inspiring.