20 minute read
Wine and dine
Relish the moment
Spring clean your home menus with a beautiful new braised ham hock starter from the team at Chadwicks Inn Maltby
Celebrate the new season with a flavour-packed ham hock pressing, served with a punchy pineapple relish, soft boiled quail’s egg and pease pudding. Chadwicks’ head chef, Steve Lawford talks us through the dish, while expert sommelier, Lee Tolley takes us on a beauty of a Burgundy wine journey.
French fancy >>
Braised ham hock pressing, pineapple relish, soft boiled quail’s egg & pease pudding >> Serves up to 10
Ingredients 4 x ham hocks 150g x liliput capers 4tbsp x wholegrain mustard 100g x flat leaf parsley 8 x bronze leaf gelatine sheets 1 x pineapple 1 x red pepper 1 x punnet quail’s eggs 250g x yellow split peas 4 x shallots 100g x unsalted butter 3 x cloves garlic Mixed spice Mustard seeds White wine vinegar Sugar
Pressing Place ham hocks in a large pan. Add some chopped onion, carrot and celery. Cover with water and slowly simmer for 3-4 hours until the ham falls off the bone. Remove ham, reserving the liquid and then pick off the bone. Bring 700ml of cooking liquid to the boil and dissolve the gelatine in it. In a large bowl add the ham, chopped parsley, capers and wholegrain mustard. Pour over the stock and gently mix. Carefully place into a terrine mould lined with clingfilm and press overnight in the fridge to set.
Pineapple relish Remove skin from the pineapple. Dice the pineapple flesh and red pepper as small as possible. Place in a pan and add the mixed spice, mustard seeds, white wine vinegar and sugar. Slowly cook until the liquid has evaporated. Cool in the fridge.
Pease pudding In a pan, add the yellow split peas, butter, garlic, shallots and about 1 litre of stock. Slowly simmer until peas are soft. Blitz in a food processor and pass through a sieve. Cool in the fridge.
Quail’s egg Fill a pan with water, add about 100ml of white wine vinegar and bring to the boil. Add the eggs for two minutes and 20 seconds. Remove eggs, cool in iced water then carefully peel.
To serve... Slice the terrine and arrange carefully on a plate with the other elements. Garnish with some nice mixed leaves and enjoy. Bouchard Père & Fils: Dating back to 1731, Bouchard Père & Fils is one of the oldest and most famous estates in Burgundy. Its wines have medicated kings and inspired emperors! With that much quality, we’ve picked out three of the best…
‘La Vignée’ Bourgogne, 2017 (100% Pinot Noir) 12.5% ABV Using Bouchard’s strict quality criteria, grapes have been carefully selected from their growers, giving this young wine fresh, fruit flavours, yet with 10-15% of the wine spending 9-10 months in oak, there is a subtle savoury note.
Nuits-St-Georges, 2015 (100% Pinot Noir) 13% ABV Nuits-Saint-Georges is said to be the wine prescribed for Louis XIV by his doctors. With berry fruit and clove spices, this wine is well-rounded and balanced with enough structure to be put away for a few years and only get better. A medicine I would definitely prescribe!
Gevrey-Chambertin, 2016 (100% Pinot Noir) 13.5% ABV Gevrey-Chambertin is the most famous of red Burgundy areas and is said to have been Napoleon’s favourite, so much so that he made his men salute the vines when passing. A full-bodied wine with great fruit flavours and earthy notes. A world class wine. “Wine is inspiring and adds greatly to the joy of living” - Napoleon
chadwicksinnmaltby.co.uk
Refilling our future
A local mother-daughter duo are feeding food fans and joining the fight against plastic from their fabulous, eco-friendly ‘refill’ store in Tynemouth. Jessica Laing stops by to get the scoop…
In a world in which we’re inundated with mixed messages about how to reduce our carbon footprint and live a more planet-friendly lifestyle, two Tynemouth women are doing their bit in a bid to make things a little easier for us all. Together, Jackie Sewell and her daughter, Rachael Brien, are helping foodies reduce their plastic use from their independent zero-waste store, Buy The Kilo, in the heart of their hometown. The concept behind the small-but-mighty business is deliciously simple: bring your own container (or pick up one of their donated glass jars), fill it up with goodies, pop it on the scales, and pay - quite literally by the kilo. It’s a fuss-free ‘take-what-you-need’ approach that not only enables savvy shoppers to show the environment some love, but also save some pennies, while
picking up their kitchen cupboard essentials. “Our hope is that, rather than falling victim to discounts and deals in the supermarket aisles, our customers just take what works for them and their households. “We also want customers to enjoy themselves when they’re here and realise that shopping in this new way isn’t all that complicated,” adds Rachel. “The scales, the scoops, the spouts, the jars, the whole ‘eco-friendly’ thing… we understand that it can all be a bit intimidating. But we try and create a fun and relaxed experience for everyone - and we’re definitely not the preachy types.” The decision to open the doors of their own eco-friendly base was an easy one for Jackie and Rachael. Both women have long been passionate plastic-free activists - and they know what it takes to run a successful business, too. Jackie spent 30 years running her own interior design and soft furnishing company, while Rachel still runs her own sock-making business, A Woven Plane, with an old friend. Together, they design and make socks for women, using chemical-free yarn. All of their packaging, from mailbags to wrapping paper, is recycled. “Joining forces to do something like this just made sense,” says Rachel, a thirtysomething yummy mummy, who, after years of living as a London lawyer, now resides in her native Tynemouth with her other half and baby son, Jasper. “Not only do we share a love for the environment, we both have entrepreneurial drive and experience - which has really helped us get the business off the ground. “Oh, and we both hate the supermarket - I suppose that played a big part in it too,” she laughs, looking to her mum with a grin. “Don’t get me started on the supermarket,” says Jackie, her head in her hands. “We won’t lie, neither of us live a completely plastic-free lifestyle. And yes, sometimes you can’t help but go out of convenience. Recently, I went for the first time in about eight months. I was there out of pure necessity - but I hated every minute of it. “But, when and where possible, we do everything we can to make sure that we use as little plastic as possible. “This means buying our fruit and veg from our greengrocer and bread from our local bakery. Small swaps that make a big difference. “And now, thanks to Buy The Kilo, we have somewhere to go for our grains, nuts, flour, sugar, vinegar, dried fruit, pasta, cereal, spices and oils - things we used to rely on the supermarket for,” says Jackie. With support from The Business Factory in North Shields, advice from fellow refill store owners and help from their local council, who pointed the pair towards their premises in Tynemouth Metro station, Buy The Kilo opened its doors in early 2019. Jackie and Rachel have spent the last year making a name for themselves, taking on more staff, building a loyal customer base and adding to their offering. “We now have around 320 products in the shop,” says Jackie. “Mostly food, of course, but we also sell eco-friendly, natural and vegan bits and bobs. Things like soap, shower gel and deodorant, face cloths, steel straws, cotton pads, reusable coffee cups and even suncream. “The business is still in its infancy, but we’re delighted with how things are going. This first year has been a bit of whirlwind to be honest. “People have really taken to it. Including the local kids, who, armed with their pocket money, will burst through the doors after school. They roll up their sleeves and get stuck in. We’ve had to buy a little stool so that they can reach the scales. “Then you have those in their twenties, thirties and beyond, who are really tuned in to the whole sustainable living thing. More and more people, more families, are actively pursuing a more eco-friendly lifestyle - and it’s great to see.” Alongside kegs of olive oil, jars of rice and containers abundant with pumpkin seeds, customers will also spot a charming art gallery towards the back of the shop. It’s where Jackie and other local artists showcase their colourful, crafty creations - all of which centre around plastic use and the environment. “Art is another passion of mine,” says Jackie. “About ten years ago, I decided to return to education to do a fine art degree. I studied part-time at Tyne Met College and did my final year at Northumbria University. I absolutely loved it. “We decided to set up our own art exhibition programme as its ethos really complements Buy The Kilo’s - they go hand in hand - and we hope to keep it going for as long as possible.” Looking to the future, Jackie and Rachel plan on hosting a variety of eco-friendly in-store workshops and talks with local do-gooders. The aim, they tell me, is to help build relationships and share as much knowledge as possible. “There are so many skilled and interesting people living at the coast and in other parts of the region,” says Rachel. “People who are doing great things for our planet. We want our customers to be inspired to take a leaf out of their book.” As I make my final scoops (a bag of coffee grounds and a jar of 100% natural shower gel on this occasion), talk turns to the rise in refill shops across the region. Head to the likes of Jesmond, Seaham, Hexham, Darlington and Stokesley and you’ll find shops similar to Buy The Kilo. Good for the planet, but not so great for business, surely? “It might sound strange, but we’re glad there are more places like Buy The Kilo cropping up,” says Jackie. “We don’t see the other stores as competition - we see them as our neighbours. We’re all part of the same community. And we all have the same end goal, too, so why not support one another? “Joining forces in the wage against plastic - what could be better?” For more information, search @buy_the_kilo on Instagram or email hello@buy-the-kilo. com No 3 The Sidings, Tynemouth Metro Station, Tyne and Wear, NE30 2TF. Open Wed-Fri from 10am-4.30pm and Sat-Sun from 10am-2pm.
Table treats supper club
Jessica Laing and guests discover gourmet delights at a sensational supper club at Seaham Hall…
One of things I love most about food is its power to bring people together. Breaking bread - sharing a meal - is one of the most communal and binding things we, as humans, can do. And it feels even better when it’s done in fabulous surroundings. Our latest supper club served up plenty of feel-good, convivial vibes, with Seaham Hall as the backdrop. Myself and a handful of lucky guests settled in for what would be an evening of memorable conversation, plenty of laughter and unforgettable food. From the get-go, it was clear we were in good hands. Turns out, not only are Seaham Hall’s team of chefs culinary geniuses, they’re master menu-makers, too, who really know their flavours and textures. They did a stunning job, carefully crafting us the most exquisite line-up of well-thought-out dishes, resulting in a fabulous feast with finesse and flair from start to finish. The tempting tasting menu took us on a culinary journey through six sensational courses - each one a pleasing plate of goodness, shining a light on the finest, seasonal produce right here on our doorstep. Think best-of-British meat from the surrounding countryside, aged and salted for extra tenderness, and fresh, just-caught finds from the North Sea. All accompanied by sensational sauces and sides to keep our tastebuds on their toes. For the non meat-eaters in the room, it was a celebration of earthy, end-of-season root veg, vibrant leafy greens,
fragrant herbs, nuts and mild, milky cheese. All in the deliciously-serene surroundings of The Garden Room - one of the hotel’s most coveted events spaces. Created with intimate dinners, private gatherings and drinks receptions in mind, the space is an effortlessly-glamorous corner of the five-star hotel, boasting panoramic views of its grand grounds. Beef and celeriac kicked off our foodie adventure. We could have been served a slab of steak, but what came instead was tartare. The meat - in this case Longhorn beef - had been salt-aged, which meant a melt-in-the-mouth texture. It was joined by pickled mushrooms, a helping of caviar and a slice of sweet brioche toast, which had been fried in beef fat until crisp. The charred celeriac had been cooked over embers for a smoky flavour, topped off with woody mushrooms, toasted hazelnuts and lovage. Earthy, outdoorsy, foraged flavours at their best. In between, the carnivores among us devoured blushing cuts of Yorkshire venison, served with heritage beetroot and radicchio that had been glazed in wild garlic vinegar. Unfussy flavours and vibrant colours on one mighty plate. The seafood stood out too; Craster kipper, whipped until lighter than air, plump, hand-dived scallops from the Isle of Mull, and Lindisfarne oysters doused in aged elderflower vinegar sauce for a sweet and salty tang. The vegetarians, meanwhile, enjoyed grilled cabbage, elderflower butter and herbs, followed by pillowy ricotta gnocchi, roasted beetroot and creamy Cornish gouda.
Dessert - which came in the form of two sweet courses - brought new meaning to the word delicious. For many, the devishly-dark Tanzanian chocolate, served with Tahitian vanilla ice cream and delicate crisps made from yesterday’s sourdough, stole the show. For others, the mini calvados-glazed apple tarts, paired with silky vanilla cream and a spoonful of sorbet, made out of Granny Smith skin, was the ideal ending. A perfect palette-cleanser.
seaham-hall.co.uk
A WORD FROM THE CHEF >> “Our ethos is quite simple, really. We buy the very best produce we can lay our hands on. I only work with suppliers who share my values and beliefs when it comes to animal welfare and sustainability. “Our meat comes courtesy of heritage breeds. It’s very well-aged too - normally around the 100-day mark. As for our fish and seafood, we serve whatever the day boats on the north coast give us. “When it comes to flavours and textures, we like to stay close to the rule of ‘what grows together, goes together’. This means working with wild, in-season foods from the land as much as possible. We also preserve as much as we can. Some of the ingredients we use today, we actually found years ago.”
Savouring the seasons
WITH KAREN PHILLIPS
Step into spring with alfresco food and a flourish of flowers in the garden
Easter is that moveable feast, sometimes appearing in late March and other times staying out in the wings until late April. This year, it takes centre stage smack in the middle of April and often coincides with warm sunshine and the hint of summer to come. So, why not make the most of the Bank Holidays in April and May with some outdoor dining, or an impromptu picnic at the park? A wonderful friend keeps me up to date with new cookbooks and the most recent, ‘Sour’ by Mark Diacono, has become a trusted companion in the kitchen for intriguing recipes and inspiration. His sourdough toast topped with labneh, roasted grapes and strawberry sambal is a taste sensation. I’ve made labneh for years, when a milk intolerance (which is happily in the past now) forced me to find alternatives to cream. Labneh can be sweet when made with icing sugar and cinnamon, or savoury (as in this recipe), when mixed with salt and crushed garlic. I’ve always used sheep or goat’s yogurt since it’s more digestible. Simply mix the yogurt with garlic and salt, then pop into a muslin lined sieve to drain overnight. It makes a simple cream cheese alternative. The strawberry sambal is flavoured with spicy chillies and garlic and is a versatile accompaniment to so many dishes.
CHEESY QUAIL EGG MUFFINS >> We run a gluten-free baking course and the comment most elicited from attendees is ‘nobody would realise these cakes, biscuits and muffins are gluten-free!’ Our last course had me experimenting with what to take on a picnic for gluten-free friends. This recipe makes 12 mini muffins or 6 large muffins, in which case a small hen’s egg can be used instead of the quail’s egg. Ingredients • 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil • 2 tbsp butter melted and cooled • 1 large egg • 284ml pot of buttermilk • 250g gluten-free plain flour • 1 tsp baking powder • 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda • 150g grated Parmesan cheese • 1/2 tsp sea salt • 1 tbsp chopped chives • 6 slices Prosciutto, chopped into small pieces • 12 quails’ eggs, hard-boiled and peeled
Method Preheat the oven to 200C. Line a muffin tin with cases.
Sieve the flour, baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt together. Whisk the oil, melted butter, egg and buttermilk together in a bowl, then add the sieved flour mixture to it and stir gently with a wooden spoon. Add the chopped prosciutto, chives and all but three tbsp of grated parmesan (reserve that for topping the muffins). Do not overmix, otherwise the muffins will be tough. Add a spoon of the mix to the muffin cases and then top with a quail’s egg (or small hen’s egg if you are making large muffins). Cover with the rest of the muffin mix, ensuring it goes down the sides of the egg. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and bake for five minutes at 200C, then turn the oven down to 175C and bake for another 8-10 minutes, or until the tops are golden. Eat with lovely homemade chutney.
RICH PICKINGS FROM THE GARDEN >> New season’s herbs start to appear in abundance: chives, sorrel, hyssop and lovage make a welcome difference to spring recipes. Wild garlic growing down by the stream is paired with spinach and any excess leaves are blanched and frozen in ice cubes trays to add a garlicky hit to scones and tarts throughout the year. Both Swiss chard and spinach from the veg plot need using up quickly since they’ll both go to seed (bolt) in June.
JOBS IN THE GARDEN >> It’s full steam ahead in the spring garden. As soon as soil temperatures exceed 7 degrees, sowing of all veg seeds can begin in earnest. Early potatoes can be planted with a thick layer of mulch over the tops and then earthed up, or even covered with fleece, should any late frost be predicted. Any rhubarb that was forced this year can be given a welcome feed with organic manure or a proprietary liquid feed. Rhubarb should only be forced every three years, so look out for any of this year’s stock being sold off cheaply after winter to up your rhubarb plants to at least three.
FOR ONLINE INSPIRATION >> Please visit the Linnels Farm blog, where we will be uploading recipes, videos and at-home projects to keep people motivated and upbeat if they are forced to self-isolate. The first one is ‘Creating an Edible Planter’. linnelsfarm.com/blog
UPCOMING COURSES @LINNELS FARM
VEG GROWING - PART 1 >> TUES 21 APRIL Starting with how to set out a vegetable plot, this course will cover all aspects of basic vegetable growing and get you producing all manner of expensive-to-purchase veggies, from rocket to sugar snap peas. You’ll depart with vital knowledge about your soil, a selection of seeds already sown and the confidence to produce and enjoy a successful first harvest. From 10am-3.30pm.
CANDLE MAKING WITH BERNICIA CANDLES >> WED 22 APRIL Caroline of Bernicia Candles will guide you through an informative and practical course on hand-pouring soy wax candles and bees wax melts. You will leave with knowledge and tips on making soy wax candles and get the opportunity to choose different fragrances and containers to take home. From 10am-3.30pm.
INTRODUCTION TO BEE KEEPING WITH NORTHUMBERLAND HONEY CO >> SAT 2 MAY Spend an informative morning learning the theoretical aspects required to step into the world of beekeeping with confidence. In the afternoon, the course will migrate outside with all bee suits and protective equipment provided. You’ll get up close to the bees and learn the basics of bee handling, husbandry, swarm control and put the morning into practice. The day will close with a honey and mead tasting.
VIRGIN GARDENER >> WED 20 MAY Daunted by your garden? Don’t know your daffodils from your dahlias? Then this day workshop is for you. Discover the delights of propagation and pruning, shake hands with your soil and identify plants that will flourish in your garden. You’ll leave with the confidence to start a garden from scratch, or adapt an established one to suit your style. From 10am-3.30pm
LUXE LOVES
Made you look
Greatlook Design Studio is proud to introduce a breathtaking range of Italian leather sofas and chairs: GLDS Italiano. Combining modern design with classic craftmanship, GLDS Italiano is available in buttery soft leathers and durable microfibres, in a multitude of sizes and modular combinations. Nora Electric Reclining Chair, £2,950. Michellle Leather Sofa, £4,400
greatlook.co.uk
GRENSON Brady grained-leather hiking boots £285, selfridges.com
BARBOUR Wax Sports Hat £27.95, barbour.com
MAN KIT Au naturel
Mark Warren tracks down some nature-inspired gear that’ll have you looking sharp just in time for spring
VALENTINO GARAVANI Runner camouflage-print suede sneakers £525, harveynichols.com
BREITLING M173152A1L1X1 Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk stainless steel watch £3,260, selfridges.com
MULBERRY Leather-Trimmed Camouflage-Print Canvas Backpack £595, mrporter.com
PENHALIGONS The Tragedy of Lord George eau de parfum 75ml £188, selfridges.com
