EN FRANÇAIS, S’IL VOUS PLAÎT

Now, with vibrant colors, Latin-styled art, salsa music, a beautiful bar with all the elixirs needed for domestic and Caribbean favorites, Area 337 is — simply put — hot and saucy.

The menu will entice.

Kan Kan pork chops, a Puerto Ricaninspired dish, has caught many diners' attention as well it should. When the large plate of fried pork loin chop (strap of belly and the skin still attached) comes to the table with a serving of mofongo and fried plantains, a person will realize pork is appreciated on the islands.

Garden's staff also prepares a Venezuelan staple dish called Pabellon Criollo which is shredded beef served with rice and black beans and fried plantains. This dish finds its way to many customers after they see it in other patrons' tables.

The churrasco (grilled skirt steak) is one of the restaurant's favorite plates. So much so that Garden has steadily ordered more skirt steak each week since the eatery opened earlier this year.

A staple base in the soups, stews and sauces prepared at Area 337 is sofrito (a combination of cilantro, garlic and fresh tomatoes). The natural ingredients in this sauce bolster the flavor of the final dishes.

Garden, his wife Yuliana, and his mother Rhina Rosado all lead the efforts of the restaurant staff. Their intentions are to make sure the flavors of their Latin heritage are shared on the plate and in the service provided.

“You will feel like you're eating in the Caribbean,” said Garden. “A lot of our work is influenced by the food my grandmother used to cook in the Dominican Republic.”. ■

(left) Flan is one of the Latin world's favorite desserts. The mildly sweet and creamy custard creation at Area 337 is flavored with vanilla. (top, right) Area 337 owner Gus Garden walked away from an industrial career to follow his heart and dream to open a restaurant to provide Southwest Louisiana residents a culinary introduction to the Latin and Caribbean world. His restaurant features dishes from Columbia, Honduras, Puerto Rico and Venezuela. Gustav's restaurant has survived a pandemic and storms. (bottom) Garden's opened Area 337 with the intention of crafting a restaurant atmosphere where patrons and staff feel like family members.

Acadiana food lovers will find Area 337 menu items different in name, but the flavors will be familiar and fulfilling.

TRY THIS!

Savory Sampling

1

Bandeja Paisa A huge meatdominated Columbian dish with rice, red beans, fried pork belly, fried steak, fried egg, avocado, chorizo, and ripe plantain.

2

Pargo Frito A Dominicanstyled whole fried red snapper.

3

Pollo con taijada This Honduran fried chicken has become a Lake Area favorite.

4

Carne Frita Encebollada Fans of pork cracklins will relish this plate of fried pork chunks.

5

Arroz Y Frijoles A Latin kitchen is only as good as beans and rice exiting the kitchen. Area 337's version is ethereal.

Cold Front

Gumbo season has arrived

by Marcelle Bienvenu photo & styling by Eugenia Uhl

I serve potato salad or sometimes a baked sweet potato with the gumbo. Don’t forget hot, crusty French bread.

There are those who eat gumbo year round. I’m not one of them. I wait for that first cold front to blow in from the west and then scurry to the supermarket or my local grocery store for the fixings for a chicken and sausage gumbo. Usually, the stores are busy with people like me, plopping the ingredients — flour, oil, rice, chicken and smoked sausage — into their carts. My husband likes to say that when the cold winds blow, there is not a chicken or links of smoked sausage or andouille to be had south of I-10.

I am a purist when it comes to gumbo. No seafood in a chicken and sausage gumbo and not any kind of meat in a seafood gumbo — only shrimp, crab and oysters. (However, on occasion, I do like a wild duck gumbo paired with andouille, and oysters and some of their liquor added at the end of the cooking time, and cooked just long enough to allow the edges of the oysters to curl. This was a favorite of my father, an avid sportsman.)

For a hors d’oeuvre, this is one my mother often served. Pick up about two pounds of your favorite hog’s head cheese. (My choice is from Legnon’s in New Iberia.) Put it in a saucepan and slowly melt over simmering heat. Have two empty egg cartons at the ready. Put about two tablespoons of the mixture into each cup in the carton and transfer to the refrigerator and allow it to set up into its gelatin form.

When ready to serve, gently pop out the hog’s head cheese and serve on crackers or toasted French bread, dabbing a little Creole or Dijon mustard on each. ■

MAIN COURSE

My Chicken and Sausage Gumbo

You can save time by using jarred roux. I’m not offended by that.

MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

1 fryer chicken, about 3 to 4 pounds, cut into serving pieces Creole or Cajun seasoning mix ½ cup dry white wine, vermouth or dry sherry 3 tablespoons plus 1 cup vegetable oil 2 cups finely chopped onions 2 cups finely chopped green bell peppers 1 cup finely chopped celery 2 ½ to 3 quarts chicken stock (as needed) 1 ½ pounds andouille or other smoked sausage, cut crosswise into ¼-inch slices. 1 cup chopped green onions ½ cup chopped parsley

PREHEAT oven to 375 F. PUT chicken pieces in a large bowl and season with Cajun or Creole seasoning mix. Add 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and toss to coat chicken evenly. Arrange in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes. Remove pan from the oven and add wine. Return to oven and bake for about 10 minutes or until lightly browned. The chicken will be partially cooked. PICK the meat off the bones and chop into chunks. Set aside. PLACE sausage on a rimmed sheet pan and bake for 10 minutes. Drain off any excess fat and set aside. COMBINE 1 cup oil and flour in a large cast-iron pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Stirring slowly and constantly, make a dark brown roux. ADD onions, bell peppers and celery and cook, stirring, often, until vegetables are lightly golden, about 20 minutes. Add chicken stock and sausage and bring to a gentle boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes. Add chicken and simmer for 30 more minutes. SKIM off excess oil and adjust seasoning. Add the green onions and parsley and serve over rice.

DESSERT

Pecan Bourbon Pound Cake

If you don’t have pecans, walnuts work quite well.

MAKES 12 TO 14 SERVINGS

1 pound butter 3 cups sugar 9 eggs, separated 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 teaspoons pure almond extract 1 teaspoon butter flavoring ¼ cup bourbon 2 cups chopped pecans

PREHEAT oven to 325 F. Grease a tube pan or two (5-by 9-inch) loaf pans. Cut wax paper to fit the bottom of the pans and lightly grease wax paper. IN A LARGE MIXING BOWL, cream butter and sugar together until fluffy. Add egg yolks and beat well. Mix in flour, vanilla, almond and butter flavorings and bourbon. Beat egg whites in a separate bowl until stiff. Fold into batter. Stir in one cup of pecans. SPRINKLE bottom of pan (or pans) with ½ cup of the pecans. Add batter to the pan (or pans) and sprinkle the top with remaining ½ cup of pecans. BAKE until brown and a cake tester comes out clean, 1 ½ to 2 hours. To prevent the top of the cake from cracking, cover with foil the last 30 minutes of baking. TIP: Garnish with sweet whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Laissez les Bons Temps Rouler

L’histoire d’une expression problématique

par David Cheramie

J’avoue que chaque fois que je vois ou que j’entends « Laissez les bons temps rouler », je grince un peu des dents et frotte mes oreilles. C’est souvent prononcé avec un accent épouvantable et quant à son orthographe, c’est parfois d’une créativité extraordinaire. Malgré son omniprésence dans la promotion touristique de l’état, vous aurez tort de supposer qu'il s'agit d'une authentique expression en français louisianais. En dépit de ce qu’on peut croire, c’est plutôt une traduction de « Let the Good Times Roll » qui nous a donné ce qui est devenu notre devise officieuse. Je ne sais pas quand cela a été traduit pour la première fois, mais c'était probablement après la chanson de Louis Jordan du même nom en 1946. Auparavant en 1924, Tom Delaney avait aussi écrit une chanson intitulée « Let the Good Times Roll », mais elles ne sont pas pareilles. Celle-ci n’a pas eu beaucoup de succès avant 1956 quand Shirley and Lee ont enregistré la version la plus connue. Certaines sources placent la première apparition de la traduction française au Festival d’Écrevisse du Pont Breaux de 1962 où on peut lire, dans une « Déclaration d’Indépendance » satirique : « En témoignage de ceci, nous, les patriotes soussignés, promettons notre fortune et nos meilleurs esprits vivifiants et proclamons ‘Laissez les Bonnes Temps Rouler’ ». Dès le début, on peut voir qu’on n’était pas soucieux de l’orthographe française.

C’est avec les années d'après-guerre prospères et le retour triomphant des soldats louisianais francophones que l’expression a pris tout son envol. Il y a eu l’enregistrement en 1949 de « Bon Ton Roula/Bon Ton Roulet » par Clarence Garlow, originaire de Welsh en Louisiane, dans le style de jump blues que Jordan affectionnait, qui est probablement la genèse de sa popularisation en français. Une autre indication qu'il s'agissait à l'origine d'un terme anglais traduit en français peut être entendue dans une récente entrevue avec Amanda Lafleur, experte en français louisianais, sur le podcast « The Weekly Linguist ». Là, elle mentionne que Clifton Chenier disait parfois « Quittez les bons temps rouler », ce qui serait une tournure plus locale de la phrase. Par exemple, il est plus courant d'entendre « Quitte-moi te dire quelque chose » au lieu de « Laisse-moi te dire quelque chose ». En plus, Clifton et Clarence se connaissaient bien, ayant tourné ensemble au début des années 50, se présentant comme les « Deux Français Fous ». Si quelqu’un a su faire rouler les bons temps, c’était bien le Roi du Zarico. Je serais surpris si ce n'était pas l'origine de l’usage généralisé de l'expression en français. Depuis, on utilise l’expression partout, à tort et à travers, avec des variantes d'orthographe phonétique incorrectes qu'on trouve en ligne. Il serait temps qu’on décide une fois pour toutes que c’est « Laissez les bons temps rouler » si on doit insister à l’utiliser. Cela dit, je pense qu'il capte néanmoins l'essence de notre

FOR AN ENGLISH fameuse « Joie de vivre », qui

TRANSLATION VISIT est indéniablement d’origine ACADIANAPROFILE.COM française. ■