01 - The Fashion Circle: Carbon and Collective Enterprise in the London College of Fashion The ‘Fashion Circle’ focuses on themes of reducing textile waste whilst tackling net zero retrofit design. It involves a group of fashion school students who are working to restore a circular textile economy in Shoreditch. The proposal building aims to accommodate the entire sustainable ‘upcycling’ process from start to finish. The building is constructed of low-carbon recycled materials, and is in accordance with the client’s programme and circular economy design goals. The roof system is designed with focus on increasing natural light, which is defined by the space requirements and in turn minimises operational energy emissions.
Boundary Gardens
Old Street
Shoreditch High St Station
The Boroughs of London
Hackney
0
Shoreditch
Tower Hamlets The Financial Centre
15m
Existing Ground Floor Plan
Liverpool St
City of London The poorest borough of all the London Boroughs
5
Brick Lane
Site Plan of Shoreditch
City of London
The Surrounding Boroughs
R IV IN G
AC E T O N PL
D er eh am
Pl ac e
Concrete Single Spanning Beams
Concrete Grid Structure
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CURTAIN ROAD
The Site of Shoreditch
Site Location Plan 1:1000
15m
Existing Section AA
50 m
London College Fashion School Access
Brick Infill
Existing Building Material
N
10 m
N
0m
Proposed Site Site Boundary
5
Concrete Structure
02 - Environmental Context and Existing Building The existing building is based in Shoreditch, a dense built-up urban area in East London. The climate consists of mild winters and temperate summers. The proposal is in close proximity to the London College of Fashion, the leaders of the upcycling outreach scheme. Built between the 1950s-60s, the existing building consists of a concrete frame with brick infill. Its previous use was a warehouse and storage facility. To determine the value of what was already there, the first stage of design required an embodied carbon analysis of the existing materials.
Existing Concrete Slabs
Concrete Frame
Concrete Beams
Bricks
Embodied Carbon Contributions Calculated using a formula to find the weight of the material and then multiplied by the embodied carbon rate.
Construction Sequence
Removal of Materials
The glazing units and brick were removed from the existing building. These materials were not required for this particular project.
Demolished
The concrete slabs were selectively demolished to increase access to daylight. Roofs were also selectively demolished or completely removed.
CLT Filling
Filling in of the concrete frame was carried out with CLT Panels, leaving openings for glazing. This was designed in manner that was efficient and economical.
Final Proposal
The proposal demonstrates the over cladding technique, which consisted of a layer of external insulation and timber cladding. The roof design was determined by lighting requirements for each space.
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
Dereham Place - The Existing Building
Chiharu Ohgomori working in her textile dyeing studio.
CURTAIN ROAD
3 1 2 0
Ground Floor Plan
4
5
1. Textile Exhibition 2. Print & dyeing Room
15m
3. Indoor Market Space 4. Outdoor Courtyard/ Market Space
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
The Proposal in Context The building proposal is a retrofit of an existing warehouse, where the concrete frame and slabs have been selectively demolished with the aims to increase access to natural light on the site. To achieve the goals of minimising the carbon emissions of the new design the embodied energy of materials was looked at in great depth. The aim was to keep as much of the existing structure as possible, so long as it served the scheme. Therefore, the embodied carbon of the existing structure was calculated and this drove the strategy of determining what to keep. The calculations showed that the concrete slabs made up
03 - A Retrofit Project over half of the existing building’s embodied carbon energy, and the concrete frame took up the next largest proportion. Furthermore, the retention of these materials, which would be more harmful to the environment if released from the existing building, were prioritised over keeping other existing materials. When it came to forming the envelope, materials with a low embodied carbon were chosen as cladding materials, such as recycled brick and timber. Additionally, timber is lightweight and this meant that the capacity of the existing concrete foundation could be used, which was designed for the building as it stands and could possibly take slightly more weight.
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Client: Fashion Students of Shoreditch
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
Making the Fabric Cast Panel using Recycled Offcuts Better Environment
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
15
Improved Fashion Economy
Fashion Marketing
16
Education provided by London College of Fashion
1 2
March 21st 12:00 PM CIE Sky
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3
2
1
Key 1. Fashion Catwalk Hall 2. Sheltered Outdoor Gathering Space
3. Outdoor Market Space 4. Communal Sewing Room
5
Sewing Skills
6 7
Local Community 1. Existing Concrete 2. Waterproof Membrane 3. Delta MS500 Drainage Membrane 4. Delta Qwik Seal Plug 5. 150 mm Metal Stud Rockwool Insulation 6. 18 mm Sheathing Plywood 7. Fabric Plaster Cast Panel 15. Aluminium Thin Frame Window 16. Concrete Plinth
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
LCF’s Sustainable Fashion Programme
0
20
40 cm
Frame Detail at Ground Level 1.10 Detail
+ + +
Old worn out jeans
Offcuts of garments/ reclaimed textiles
The Upcycling Process
Garments are sewn together
New fashion items
0
1
5m
Section CC - 1.100 04 - Narrative and Client The outreach programme housed by this proposal, allows the London College of Fashion (LCF) students to engage with the local community by educating them on the ‘upcycling’ process and thereby improving the current conditions of sustainability within the fashion world. Materials such as recycled brick are used within the Communal Sewing Room, while Fabric cast panels line the Fashion Catwalk Room. Recycled materials are used within the design in addition to their forms relating to fashion and fabric – in this way the building becomes an embodient of the ethical position behind the programme.
CLT Slab
Steel knife plate connection
Wooden truss members 160 x 160 mm
Apex connection
Wooden Rafters
Diamond Trusses
Secondary Beams
Existing Concrete Frame Wooden beam
Roof Truss system
Room Partitions
Existing New
Communal Sewing Room 1. Textile Printing/ Dyeing Room 2. Sewing Rooms 3. Drawing Room
Exploded Axo of Communal Sewing Space
1 2
3 2
4. Recycling centre 5. Fashion Runway
4
N
NN
NN
N
8
6
5
6. Offices 7. Material Library 8. Retail/Market
Massing Development
N
7
N
Enterprise Education Social/ Exhibition
Diffuse North Light
Fashion Runway Outdoor Courtyard/ Market Textile Exhibition Shared Spaces
Top light
N
Southern Light
6
13
11
5
10
2
8
9
12
1. Textile Exhibition Space 2. Satellite Sewing Room 3. Hallway opposite the Textile Recycling Centre 4. Indoor Market Hall 5. Rentable Sewing Rooms
6. Offices 7. Congregation Hall/Ticket Office 8. Outdoor Market 9. Fashion Catwalk 10. Door leading to Drawing Room
Lighting requirements for the Scheme
7
4 1
3
11. Communal Sewing Room 12. Dressing Room 13. Printing and Dyeing Room
Perspective Section AA
05 - Designing with the Environment Daylighting was a main driver of design. Increased daylighting was achieved through the selective demolition of the existing concrete form to improve light penetration on the site. Volumes were then pushed out of the existing concrete frame and roof heights were elevated to maximise view of sky. Different roof formations were designed to create specific light qualities desired for the different spaces. The textile exhibition hall required southern light, which consists of a heating element and dramatic light quality. Whereas the communal sewing rooms required diffuse northern light, in turn a north rooflight was designed for this space.
CLT
3
2
4 5
1
6
1. Concrete Column 2. Bare-faced CLT Panel 3. Rockwool Insulation 4. Breather Membrane 5. Vertical Cladding Batten 6. Timber Cladding
Timber Oak
Copper Roof
Existing Concrete
Overcladding Detail - Vertical Cladding of MaterialPercentage PaletteCarbon Percentage of Embodied Raw Material battens Area/m2 Depth/mto structural Volume/m3 Density kg/m3 Weight/ kg No. of bricks Embodied Carbon kgCO2e Total Embodied Carbon Embodied fixed directly wall Raw Material Area/m2 Depth/m Density kg/m3 Weight/ kg 2500 Embodied Carbon kgCO2e Total Embodied Carbon 0.1 Carbon Slabs 3281 Volume/m3 0.15 492.15 1,230,375 123037.5 66% PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK Concrete STUDENT VERSION Concrete Frame 1.44through insulation 0.28 0.40320.25 2500 1,008 0.1 100.8 10% Concrete Frame 435 108.75 2500 271,875 0.1 27187.5 15% Reclaimed Bricks 0.244 2.1 0.51240.35 1200 615 0.23 141.4224 15% Concrete Beams 192 67.2 2500 168,000 0.1 16800 9% Existing Structure 10% CLT 0.288 2.15 0.6192 0.1 470 291 0.46 133.87104 14% Bricks 441.6 44.16 1800 79,488 31770 0.23 18282.24 Calculation of one bay
Rockwool Insulation Timber Façade Glazing
0.63 0.416 0.319
1.9 4.48 2.12
1.197 1.86368 0.67628 -
22 26 650party wall) 1,211 (excluding 204
1.05 0.31 0.91
Raw Material Concrete Frame Reclaimed Bricks CLT Rockwool Insulation Timber Façade Glazing
1 brick= Area/m2
1.44 0.244 0.288 0.63 0.416 0.319
Raw Material Concrete Frame Bricks OSB Rockwool Insulation Timber Façade Glazing
Area/m2
Raw Material Concrete Frame Bricks OSB Rockwool Insulation Timber Façade Glazing
Area/m2
1.44 0.244 0.288 0.63 0.416 0.319
1.44 0.244 0.288 0.63 0.416 0.319
Depth/m
Depth/m
Depth/m
0.0139
0.28 2.1 2.15 1.9 4.48 2.12
Volume/m3 Density kg/m3 Weight/ kg Embodied Carbon kgCO2e 0.4032 2500 1,008 0.5124 1200 615 0.6192 470 291 1.197 22 26 1.86368 650 1,211 0.67628 204 PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
0.28 2.1 2.15 1.9 4.48 2.12
Volume/m3 Density kg/m3 Weight/ kg Embodied Carbon kgCO2e 0.4032 2500 1,008 0.5124 2000 1,025 0.6192 600 372 1.197 22 26 1.86368 650 1,211 0.67628 204
0.28 2.1 2.15 1.9 4.48 2.12
Volume/m3 Density kg/m3 Weight/ kg Embodied Carbon kgCO2e A 0.4032 2500 1,008 0.5124 2000 1,025 0 5 600 0.6192 372 15m 1.197 22 26 1.86368 650 1,211 0.67628 204
First Floor Plan
0.1 0.23 0.46 1.05 0.31 0.91
3% 39% 185307.24 19%
Overall Embodied Carbon/ m2 Percentage of Embodied 73.8 kgCO2e/m2 Total Embodied Carbon Carbon 100.8 10% kgCO2e 964.47886 141.4224 15% 133.87104 Overall GIA 14% 2512 27.6507 3% (m2) Overall Embodied Carbon/ m2 375.53152 39% 253.8 kgCO2e/m2 185.2032 19%
Option 1 - CLT and reclaimed Brick Overall GIA
3.8 (m2) 964.47886 kgCO2e
0.1 0.28 0.62 1.05 0.31 0.91
Percentage of Embodied Total Embodied Carbon Carbon Overall Embodied Carbon/ m2 100.8 8% 253.8 kgCO2e/m2 286.944 24% 230.3424 19% 27.6507 2% Overall GIA 375.53152 31% 3.8 (m2) 185.2032 15%
0.1 0.28 0.62 1.05 0.31 0.91
Percentage of Embodied Total Embodied Carbon Carbon 100.8 8% kgCO2e 1206.47182 286.944 24% 230.3424 19% Overall Embodied Carbon/ m2 27.6507 2% 317.5 kgCO2e/m2 375.53152 31% 185.2032 15%
Option 2 - OSB and New Brick
Embodied Overall GIA Carbon Calculations 3.8 (m2)
1206.47182 kgCO2e
The materials chosen for the building were checked against their embodied carbon content. The FCBS tool was used initially to calculate the embodied carbon of the existing structure, but this proved to be quite limiting and was therefore replaced with individual calculations for each construction type on an excel spreadsheet. Two different combinations of material choices were tested within one bay of the scheme. Option 2 gave a higher
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
Calculation of one bay
27.6507 375.53152 185.2032
View A: View from Dereham Place June 21st 10:00AM
06 - Material Study + Embodied Carbon Overall Embodied Carbon/ m2 embodied carbon output in comparison to option 1. Therefore 317.5 kgCO2e/m2 the use of materials within the first option were better suited for the objective of lowering additional embodied carbon emissions. Overall GIA (m2) Furthermore, the use of timber and CLT3.8 created a warm contrast against the existing concrete frame. This language is found throughout the building, and emphasises what is new against what has been retained.
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK ST
Fabric Cast Panels Rainscreen
2 3 4 5 6 7
8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15
1.20 Technical Section
Ground Line Finish
PRODUCED BY AN AUTO
Thermal Cladding Strategy 1. 110mm Reclaimed Brick Tile Wall 2. Wall Tie 3. 120mm CLT Panel 4. 150mm Rockwool Rainscreen Duo Slab Insulation 5. Timber Oak Facade 6. Stainless Steel Fixing 7. Mastik Sealant Joint 8. 100mm Polished Concrete 9. Underfloor Heating Pipework 16DØ @150 cc 10. Breather Membrane 11. 25 mm Insulation 12. Suspension Rod 13. Suspension Plate 14. Main T-Section 15. T-bar 16. Ceiling Board PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
1
Insulation
1 2 3 7
4
8 9
5
10 11
5
12
17
13 14 15 16
0
20
40 cm
First Floor Junction Detail
07 - Thermally Cladding the Existing Building The main goal of the environmental strategies was to utilise passive methods in the summer and mechanically driven strategies in the winter, when necessary. This was done in order to lower the proposal’s overall operational carbon use. In addition, properly insulating the existing concrete structure would reduce any thermal leaks in the building, making heating and ventilation services more efficient. When it came to insulating the basement, the insulation line had to be switched from outside to inside, therefore it was important to ensure that there was enough insulation overlap near the first floor junction to prevent any thermal breaks within the envelope.
K STUDENT VERSION
1. Aluminium Thin Frame Window 2. Concrete Plinth 3. Underground Drainage 4. Fabric Plaster Cast Panel 5. 18 mm Sheathing Plywood 6. 150 mm Metal Stud Rockwool Insulation 7. Delta MS500 Drainage Membrane 8. Waterproof Membrane 9. Delta Qwik Seal Plug 10. Kingspan Raised Access Flooring (Marmoleum Finish) 11. 500 mm Pedestals 12. 290 x 190mm Trench Heater 13. Timber Deck 14. Delta MS20 Drainage Membrane 15. Delta Dual V3 Sump Pump
1
Overcast Sky Conditions
2 3
December 21 12:00 PM
4
Summer 5 6 7 8
Diffuse Light
Social Sustainability
Sustainable Strategies Included in the Building Proposal I have focused on these main three components to form a comprehensive sustainable scheme. Through passive environmental strategies, such as relying on natural daylighting, operational carbon emissions can be reduced. By using upcycled materials, bricks can be salvaged and reused, thus reducing the amount of building materials that end up in landfill. Finally, through the use of low embodied carbon materials, the overall carbon emissions of the proposal were kept to a minimum. The programme also fits the goal of sustainable action.
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
13
https://www.light11.eu/flos/stringlight.html
South
Working plane height
950
Reflected light Nortb
Summer - Lighting Strategy North lights let in more light than vertical glazing, due to uninterrupted view of sky and a view that is closer to the zenith. Additionally it allows for a more even distribution of light
14
8.8 m
Pendant lights bring luminaires closer to the working plane
Luminaire Plane
2200
Working Plane
950
South
Plan displaying the lighting strategy
1.20 Technical Section 1. Standing Seam Copper 2. 50 x 50 mm Timber Battens 3. 200 mm Rockwoll Insulation 4. 150mm CLT Roof Slab 5. Vapour Control Layer 6. Fascia 7. Openable Timber Frame Window
The design calls for uniform distribution, therefore the whole working area is taken as the area of working plane. 10.2 x 8.8 = 89.76 m2
10.2 m
Upcycled Materials
12
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
Nortb
Winter/little to no daylight - Lighting Strategy
The Communal Sewing Room had a very specific lighting requirement, as the activity of sewing benefits from soft diffuse light, that does not cast too much of a shadow. A north roof light was designed at an angle of 60o to bring in north diffuse light, while shading the room from direct solar light in the summer. This roof was designed with the aim of increasing natural daylight in order to reduce the demand for electric lighting. The lux levels were tested at key moments throughout
8. Oak Wood Truss Member 9. Copper Fascia 10. Timber Boarding 11. Zinc Insulated Gutter 12. Existing Concrete Beam 13. Reclaimed Brick Wall 14. 120 mm CLT Wall
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
Passive Environmental Strategies
9 10 11
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
Testing Lux Levels with Velux Daylight Visualiser
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
June 21 12:00 PM
61o
08 - Lighting Strategy for the Sewing Rooms the year, which helped to evaluate the possible lighting scenarios. The lux levels on March 21st with overcast sky conditions had an average of 500 lux at the working plane, which is the standard for rooms of this nature. For the winter months and moments where adequate lux levels are not met, a lighting system was designed. Calculations showed that 25 luminaires were required and pendant lights were chosen due to the intention of keeping light closer to the task plane.
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
March 21 12:00 PM
PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION PRODUCED BY AN AUTODESK STUDENT VERSION
Diffuse Light