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N I L R BE
because it’s beautiful
HOW
TO MAKE IT IN BERLIN
INDEX
Welcome
How to make it in Berlin
p.011
Contributors Designer Tess van Hooff and Trendwatcher Renske Francissen p.013
How to make it in Berlin
p.014-015
Something about Tess and Renske p.016-019 Me and my bag Bags say something about a person p.020-021
Art Rebels Berlin
p.022-023
Berlin has become one of the world’s most important creative city
Street scene Stil in Berlin
p.024-025
p.026-027
Other cool cities Amsterdam, New York, Paris, Tokyo, London p.028-031 Red Bull Music Academy Amsterdam p.032 - 33
Shoe addict
p.036-037
Behind the scenes
A day in the life of Tess and Renske, her horse and their home p.038-039
Girls on the block They make it anyway p.040-053
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WELCOME
HOW TO MAKE IT IN BERLIN
Imagine two girls from Amsterdam who flew their asses all the was to Germany not speaking a single word of deutch, leaving their proper jobs and everything safe and steady behind in the Netherlands to start a new exciting life in Berlin. Now imagine those two girls trying to get things going in Berlin with Artrebels as their inspiration and as their main red thread. With a complete open-minded state of mind about everythings that’s happening there they’ll try to get into Berlin as deep as possible.
NOW THAT'S A STORY
TESS
& E RENSK
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CONTRIBUTORS
TESS VAN HOOFF DESIGNER Discribe yourself in 5 words ‘I Am Tess Van Hooff.’ A perfect day is ‘To go to my birthplace. In that town, there’s a secret spot where you can still see the stars at night, believe it or not. It’s the only place like that left, unclouded by the rumbling factories, unhibited by the dwindling skyscrapers rising nearby. It’s a good place to go to walk and talk in whispers. Following the little hill that rises from the park to a small clearing which overlooks the statue of the armless general on his bronze steed. Most of us later remember this spot as the first place we knew we might be in love.’ Hates ‘Honestly absolutely nothing. It’s such a waste of time.’ Style is ‘Knowing who you are, what you want to say and not giving a damn.’ Fabourite era is ‘The 60s. There has never been a decade quite like it; the diversity, conflicts, hope and anger that is so characteristic for the sixties.’ Top tips ‘If you don’t create CHANGE, change will create you.’ Super power would be ‘To beam myself into different places. That would be amazing.’ Quote ‘Be open-minded, but not so much that your brains fall out.’ Style is ‘Knowing who you are, what you want to say and not giving a damn.’
RENSKE FRANCISSEN TRENDWATCHER Do you have a celebrity lookalike ‘Not really.’ Favourite place in the world is ‘Berlin is sort of like my lover, whereas Amsterdam is more like my husband. I love my husband, and I’ll always be with him, but Berlin is so exciting.’ Dream dinner party guest ‘Prince!’ Is addicted to ‘My own blog, morningbird.nl.’ Is a fan of ‘Friends who inspire me almost every day’. Style icon is ‘Alexa Chung for sure.’ Inspired by ‘The constant renewal of fashion. There’s no time to get jaded.’ Top tips ‘Never stop having fun, laugh until you cry, cherish each moment, time is now, don’t be too serious, your life is yours, streets are endless, day by day.’ Can’t live without ‘Music, my Apple computer and friends.’ Hero ‘My dad.’ A perfect day ‘Waking up with bed hair and being surrounded by family and friends.’ Super power would be ‘A wind machine.’ Quote ‘Do things with passion, or not at all. Wherever you go, go with all your heart.’
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A really cool guy (Pieter) told us about HBO’s series, How to Make It in America, from the producers of Entourage. A group of 20-somethings, led by the lackluster Ben (Bryan Greenberg) and the terrier – like Cam (Victor Rasuk), are chasing their dreams, and being tripped by their foibles. The pessimistic Ben is ready to give up with only one failed dream and one failed relationship. Although, working a dead-end job at Barney’s, he is hooked up with friends, hipster happenings, and club openings. His more optimistic best friend, Cam, has a Peter Pan-esque, never-say-die attitude that has enough optimism to fuel both their dreams. The two are attempting to start a fashion line named Crisp Denim. For every step Cam takes forward – misguided and incorrect though it may be – Ben takes an insecure one backward.
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HOW
TO MAKE IT IN BERLIN
FOLLOW TESS AND RENSKE ON ARTREBELS.COM, HOW THEY GONNA MAKE IT IN BERLIN
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SOMETHING ABOUT_
TESS
Tess van Hooff Stylist
A.E. Kokplantsoen 54 1063 PW Amsterdam
+316 27 500 261 tessvanhooff@gmail.com 1.
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1. Drawings drawings drawings. She can’t go anywhere without her pencil and paper 2. She laughs so hard when she captures things like this 3.No road is long with good company 4. Family who are always there for her, even if she’s not there 5. She can put all her creativity into her collages
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6. She loves surfing and the sea. Freedom! 7. Paris me manque, She misses Paris sometimes 8. Home 9. Travelling. She’s been around 017
SOMETHING ABOUT_
RENSKE
Renske Francissen Trendwatcher
+316 30 40 23 09 info@morningbird.nl www.morningbird.nl
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1. Studied Fashion & Branding at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute
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2. Became a trendwatcher for a shoecompany because she is addicted to shoes 3.Travels a lot
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4. Always makes pictures with her Canon 5. Lomography camera for happy times 6. Can’t live without her friends who are wild horses 7. Has her own website - www.morningbird.nl 8. Has a really good relationship with her Apple computer 9. Bad habit 019
ME AND MY BAG_TESS The scarf I wear to keep my hair in control Jagermeister, no explanation needed Red lipstick to make it through the night Harmonica stands for music Clothes hanger stands for fashion of course Cool gadgets which I secretly really like a lot Drawing and pencil because I can’t live without My weird habit to make earrings of strange things Tape is usefull for so many things I sweat, my brain is 70% song lyrics Rings make hands look better Porselain is an amazing material Shell and stray wood reflects the sea This black wallet is with me for years now Yarn to do my sewing Paris je t’aime, lived and partied there Where to go without my lighter? “Leave 20p in a phone box for the next person to use”
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ME AND MY BAG_RENSKE Wild horses is one of the parties I organise Kodak to capture all the good moments Chanel red nail polish every day Chanel rubber band to get my hair up in style Necklace to finish my outfit Paisley print scarf is always HOT Vogue for inspiration and 3D is the future I’m a little bit obsessed with horses My blog speaks for me www.morningbird.nl Picture of part of my shoe collection Nescafe coffee dark & intense to keep me awake Can’t live without my Ipod I have my driving license - o yes Hairband, still in my bag because I never wear it “Plan your dream adventure in detail and start saving for it”
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INTRODUCTION TO ART
REBELS
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BERLIN
Berlin has become one of the world’s most important creative city. If in any doubt of its current kudos, the fact that over 50 percent of tourists in Berlin are under 30 will dispel a torrent of concerns. As outsiders, innovators and avant-gardes adopt overt self-expression and unbridled creativity as the new and positive way to make a stand, Berlin takes its place as the accepting ‘Mecca’ and spiritual home for an emerging breed of mavericks who insist on being the curators of their own future success. 1 5
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1.THE CREATIVE COLLECTIVE - KUNSTHAUS TACHELES
Ensconced within the fiercely cool old Jewish quarter of East Berlin, The ‘Kunsthaus Tacheles’ stands as testimony to Berlin’s revered edginess and ‘anarchic creativity’. It is an alternative grass-roots home for the arts that comprises a self-organised collective of artists over six floors. Formally a department store, it was established around 1990 and now bursts at the seams with constant exhibitions, installations, workshops, screenings and cultural events.
2.THE EVENT - BERLINALE FILM FESTIVAL
Berlin boasts a vibrant burgeoning film industry with around 300 new films made within the city each year. As a location with immense international appeal, producers and directors flock from all points of the map to benefit from its unique atmosphere and aesthetic. The Berlinale is not only a showcase for what is happening in cinema but a platform for creative interaction.
3.THE BLOG - STIL IN BERLIN
Founded in 2006 by Mary Scherpe and Benjamin Richter, online photography project ‘Stil in Berlin’ is widely regarded as one of the most inspirational international fashion blog-spots going, offering a window into the unique streetstyle of Berlin’s vibrant residents. Having collaborated with high street giant Urban Outfitters, exhibited at Colette in Paris and Create Berlin and being celebrated by the likes of Nylon magazine and the New York Times, this is one blog with that precious mix of creativity and credibility.
4.THE TRADE SHOW - BREAD & BUTTER
Bread & Butter holds a stellar reputation as the trade show not to be missed; coinciding with the biannual MercedesBenz sponsored Berlin Fashion Week these influential events ensure the city is a fashion capital to be reckoned with. The specialist street and urban apparel show boasts an outstanding brand portfolio along with a vibrant party atmosphere that promotes a ‘business and pleasure’ ethos creating a desirable climate of camaraderie between exhibitors, visitors and press.
5.PLACE TO EAT - DUDU
The owner is Vietnamese and his sushi really is kind of an art orm. All of the special sauces are homemade by him, he sometimes fries the rolls, adds fresh salsa and guacamole and the outcome tastes incredible. His mother does excellent soups and fresh chocolate cake for dessert, which are also indescribable delicious. It’s just the best restaurant in the world and Dudu, the cook, is like the coolest guy you can imagine.
6.THE MEETING PLACE - COOP CAFE
Part of the peace community, preaching the power of love and creation and a cohort of the Tacheles collective, Heinrich Buecker opened the “anti-war Coop cafe” in the Mitte district to serve as a meeting point for players on Berlin’s thriving alternative scene. Much more than a budget watering hole for the ‘trendy’ the Coop hosts discussions and art shows, screens independent films and provides a platform for musicians to meet and perform.
7.THE ACCOMMODATION - MICHELBERGER HOTEL
When seeking inspiration from this hectic cultural city why not take rest in a venue as visually eclectic as the city itself. The Michelberger Hotel is a mould-breaking boutique hotel and bar/restaurant with a raw sense of rebellion and urban cool, an identity synonymous with Berlin. Named after its founder Tom Michelberger, the space blends the individuality of boutique accommodation with the grit and diversity of a hostel.
8.THE DESIGNER - PATRICK MOHR German designer Patrick Mohr is without a doubt the ‘enfant terrible’ of Berlin Fashion Week, both internationally acclaimed and sporadically denounced for his avant-garde art vs. fashion ethos. Having graduated from Munich’s celebrated fashion school ESMOD in 2008 with the ‘Prix Createur’ accolade for the best collection of the year Mohr went to work for German designer Bernhard Willhelm. Soon after the ‘one-towatch’ set up his eponymous label and earned a place on the illustrious BFW calendar.
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Zoe, 16, student
Bebelplatz: Maayan Goldman
Kottbusser Damm: Belen
STREET
STIL IN BERLIN
‘Stil in Berlin’ is an online photography project, published in blog-format - It presents a selection of contemporary portaits in exclusive photography as well as extensive interviews with people defining Berlin's current atmosphere. 026
Neue Schönhauser Straße: Daniel
Neue Schönhauser Straße: Peter Torstraße: Nora Tschirner
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NETHERLANDS/
AMSTERDAM AMERICA/
NEW YORK FRANCE/
PARIS JAPAN/
TOKYO GREAT BRITAIN/
LONDON
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OTHER COOL CITIES
RESTAURANTS. EXHIBITIONS. NIGHTLIFE
AMSTERDAM RESTAURANT CAFÉ RESTAURANT AMSTERDAM Watertorenplein 6, 1051 PA Amsterdam
A restaurant with a really nice and affordable menu, a little out of the way. Situated in an old pumping station. It’s awesome in all sorts of ways. Very close to the Westerpark, which is actually a way nicer park than that Vondelpark all the touritsts keep going on and on about. Steak tartare: check. King crab: check. Steak: check. Merquez sausage: check.
EXHIBITION IMMY KETS BRIGHTSIDE/ SHOT IN FLANDERS
De Brakke Grond, Nes 45, 1012 Amsterdam Mar. 17 – Mar. 20
De Brakke Grond presents two photo series by Jimmy Kets (1979): Brightside and Shot in Flanders. This young photographer from Antwerp directs his lens towards the artificial environments that cluster around us. Kets photographs the backdrops of erotic fairs, theme parks and zoos using a bright flash, revealing their shallowness and the falsity of their sheen. The people in these pictures are just extras, caught up in the search for happiness and pleasure. The situation is never inhuman, however; Kets’ photos always give the viewer the scope for a relieved smile.
NIGHTLIFE THE NEW ANITA
Warmoesstraat 129, 1012 JA Amsterdam
The new Anita is a small bar on the Hugo de Grootplein, on the border of western Amsterdam and the city centre. On some night, they close the bar and let bands perform behind it, which is a very nice way to discover some new artists.
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NEW YORK RESTAURANT RED ROOSTER
310 Lennox Avenue at 125th Street in Harlem
Marcus Samuelsson, the Ethiopian born, Swedish raised chef, famously of Aquavit, had opened his own restaurant. He is serving comfort food like fried chicken and lobster macaroni and cheese and Scandinavian items such as graviax and meatballs. A breakfast café, grocery and horseshoe shaped bar are part of the 3,400 sq ft space.
EXHIBITION VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 1980-89 Museum at FIT. Mar. 8 – Apr. 1
This is the first exhibition to focus on Westwood’s fashion of the 1980s and highlight the significant shift in her design style during this decade. In the beginning of the period, she was known for her street-styles, but by 1985, her more structured, feminine and historically inspired styles won her a wider audience. Included in the exhibition are ensembles from her 1981 Pirate collection, one from her 1982 Buffalo collection and boots from her 1987 Tweed collection. Editorial photographs, runway footage, and video interviews with the designer will be shown. It is curated by FIT graduate students.
NIGHTLIFE PICCOLO CAFÉ
274 West 40th ST, NY 10018
Recently opened in the heart of the fashion district is the second café from Piccolo. Michele, who co-owns both cafés, originally came to New York from this native Italy to spread the word about his family-owned coffee roasting business that was established in Trieste in 1938. Both cafés are designed from reclaimed wood and re-cycled materials, giving a warm familiar energy within.
PARIS RESTAURANT
SACHA FINKELSZTAJN
27, Rue des Rosiers 75004 PARIS
The best ashkénaze in Paris can be found in le Marais, between rue Rivoli and rue de Turenne. Everything is so good that you won’t be able to decide what to have. The straddles les kasekuchen (cheese cakes) and the pastrami sandwich, a New York staple, are both winners. Eating here is like being in a Woody Allen film, the only difference being that it is better.
EXHIBITION MADAME GRES, COUTURE AT WORK Museum at FIT. Mar. 8 – Apr. 1
Musée Bourdelle, 16, rue Antoine Bourdelle, Paris 15. Mar. 25 - July 24 This exhibition brings together some 80 of the most emblematic items created by the most emblematic items created by the house of Grés from the 1930s to the 1980s, drawn from the gallerina fashion museum and private collections, together with around 50 original photographs.
NIGHTLIFE LE POMPON
39, Rue des Petites Ecuries, 75010
Le Pompon is a new bar, restaurant and club, inconspicuously situated in the 10th arrondissement in Paris. Decked in beautiful wood paneled walls and ceiling, the attractive bar area has British pub feel. Downstairs, is where it all happens after dark with live music or DJ’s squatting the brick wall space and hip Parisians lounging on retro leather sofas, dancing to their hearts desire, or smoking to their lungs turn grey in the fumoir. 030
TOKYO
RESTAURANT
RIVA DEGLI ETRUSCHI
3-15-13 Minamiaoyama, Minato-ku
A sister restaurant to the original in Tuscany, this Tokyo outpost already has the blessing of the Italian embassy as being “one of the best Italian restaurants in Tokyo.” This new incarnation pays respect to the orginal with an at-home villa atmosphere with wood and stone finishings and quaint Italian artwork on the wall. Above the main dining room is a bistro and bar that can be converted into a club at night. And despite the feeling of open space inside, the restaurant still sits in the middle of the metropolis, tucked into the busting Aoyama neighbourhood.
EXHIBITION ART REVISTED, BEAUTY REVEALED
Tokyo Midtown Gardenside 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Mar. 19 – May 22
While the Suntory Museum of Art in Tokyo’s Midtown complex may be housed in one of the city’s most modern structures, inside it holds a most incredible collection of some of the country’s most prized historical artefacts. The selection covers pieces from the 13th to 18th centuries includes a writing tool inlaid with the swirling style of Japanese maki-e, porcelain incense burners, lacquer ware and an intricately cut, glass Satsuma-kirika bowl.
NIGHTLIFE
TOKYODOLORES
Ginza roots Tokyo, 7F 2-4-18 Ginza, Chuo-Ku
TokyoDOLORES is a burlesque maiden-style entertainment team with a dark fantasy concept lead by pole dancer/ singer Cay Izumi. Their productions contain elements of Japanese ‘Gothic Lolita’ pop culture, with a sexy, coquettish vibe. Their style of aerial and pole dancing is irresistible and the sexy “gothic Lolita” theme mixes beautifully with the musical and video performance.
LONDON
RESTAURANT
DRINK, SHOP & DO
No 9 Caledonian Road, London N1 9DX
Set in a former Victorian bathhouse and run by tow twentysomething ex-school chums, this charming new café, bar, shop and social club is a cheerful addition to once-seedy King’s Cross. Everything you see is for sale. Most evenings involve some kind of offbeat free entertainment, such as ‘Dot to dot to disco’ or a ‘rock and roll truffle night’ (that’s chocolate making set to Elvis and Buddy) as a quirky crowd parties into the small hours.
EXHIBITION SUE TIMNEY AND THE DESIGN OF TIMMY-FOWLER
The fashion and Textile Museum. 83 Bermondsey Street. Till Apr. 25
Sue Timney is the celebrated designer whose company, timney-Fowler, is best known for its distinctive graphic black and white imagery. It is also one of a rare breed of design companies whose work flows effortlessly between fashion and interiors. The exhibition will explore the history and themes of this world-recognised design firm.
NIGHTLIFE XOYO
32-37 Cowper street London EC2A
London’s established club circuit has been struggling of late, but XOYO is the new kid on the block with the youthful energy required to revive the City’s party spirit. There are two floors of performance, studio and gallery space and 2011 sees the launch of their open competition showcasing rising stars of illustration, graphics and street art. Anyone who is anyone on the new music scene is either playing. DJing or just plain clubbing here so there really is no excuse for staying in on a Saturday night. 031
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AMSTERDAM
THE RED BULL MUSIC ACADEMYis a series
of music workshops, a platform for those who shape our musical future. Every year, two groups of 30 selected participants - producers, vocalists, DJs, instrumentalists, and allround musical mavericks from all around the globe - come together for two fortnightlong ‘terms’.
HISTORY
Contrary to popular belief, the RBMA is not a ‘DJ event’, despite having originated as such. It has since expanded to accommodate all genres and aspects of the musical spectrum.
Berlin
Initiated in 1998 in and taking place in a different city every year since then, the Academy works as follows: applicants must prepare a demo CD of their work, be it original productions, songs, DJ sets and whatnot, along with completing an application questionnaire, and mail it to central RBMA offices in Cologne, Germany. From there, each application is taken in consideration, with no quota on country or musical genre. From these applications, 60 are selected and broken down into two groups of 30, which are then flown in to the location of the respective year’s event for two fortnightly “terms” each.
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SHOE
ADDICT
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S I E M O H
ance around being able to d on and be without pants ut it. comfortable abo
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BEHIND
THE SCENES
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF TESS AND RENSKE, HER HORSE AND THEIR HOME
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GIRlS
ON THE BLOCK
THEY’LL MAKE IT ANYWAY
Photographs by
KEES DE KORT
Fashion by
RENSKE AND TESS
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N I L R BE