A Taste of the IRISH

By Mark Woolsey

While nobody’s going to mistake Atlanta’s Irish Pub scene with the Emerald Isle’s watering holes or fabled spots like McSorley’s in New York, the ATL makes a pretty fair showing. Local offerings range from upscale showplaces to compact, darkish cubbies where you could easily imagine hulking Irish farmhands pairing a Guinness and shepherd’s pie.

St. Patrick’s Day beckons, and while Atlanta area Irish spots will pull out all the stops to celebrate, where do you go the rest of the month—and year—for some truenatured immersion in the auld sod?

Here are some suggestions.

Limerick Junction— Virginia-Highland

limerickjunction.com

It’s the oldest Irish pub in metro Atlanta, dating back to the late 80s. Named after an Irish railway intersection, it brings the theme off beautifully from a mural showing country folk boarding a train to railway signal lights. It’s really more of a drinker’s haven than a foodie emporium, with manager Joshua Jacob accommodatingly explaining the ins and outs of everything from Irish whiskey to craft gin.

But the food isn’t a forlorn afterthought. Bangers and mash feature savory sausages— seemingly with a bit of filler but nicely herbed—nestled on a bed of horseradishflavored potatoes. They’re served with tingly Coca-Cola Gravy. Also, a dining companion pronounced the fish and chips among the best she’d ever tried.

Limerick Junction is a tiny spot, but the folks behind the bar have some of the biggest hearts.

The Marlay House—Decatur

themarlayhouse.com

In contrast to the somewhat nookand-cranny layout of Fado (and the Olde Blind Dog, more on them in a minute), The Marlay’s seating area is grouped around a central bar—an arrangement meant to encourage conversation, said part-owner Colin Comer, one of three Irish sibs who preside over the neighborhood-vibey spot.

“We strove to create a place we’d want to go in Dublin,” is how he put it. “We wanted to be authentic and not have shillelaghs everywhere.” You’ll find the usual Guinness signs and football banners but overall less Irish kitsch and more original art.

And the food is very much a part of the conversation. The signature item is the brisket, braised in Guinness, spiced just right and slow-cooked overnight. It’s fork-tender and bursting with flavor. The accompanying gravy is a nice bonus, but you don’t need it—this dish stands on its own.

Tomato basil soup didn’t score quite as well; it was less creamy and more astringent tasting than many. Marlay House has all the pub standard beers, ales, stouts and spirits, but are more local-craft-beer-dominated than many pubs.

The Olde Blind Dog—

Milton

and Brookhaven

oldeblinddog.com

Points for name, even more points for its own brand of authenticity. You’ll find it much lighter and airier, with high-ceilings and abundant lighting creating a spacious feel. It may lack the warm, murky and huddle-up feel of some traditional Emerald- themed gathering spots, but the shepherd’s pie brings you right back to the heart of the matter.

It’s cooked up with the traditional lamb, not beef, and very tender lamb at that, which is ensconced in a rich gravy with peas, carrots and onions and topped with cheesy mashed potatoes. The combination virtually melts in the mouth. Paired with a perfectly poured Irish lager, it’s a joyful brunch item. No wonder this place was voted International Irish Pub of the year in 2015.

Try the cheddar and ale dip; it’ll make you want to lick the spoon once the accompanying chips are exhausted. And should you be undecided about spirits, they have flights of Irish whiskey—a nice touch.

Fado—Buckhead and Midtown

fadoirishpubl.com

Any Irish-in-Atlanta discussion has to include Fado, which Irish investors debuted right before the 1996 Olympics. Whereas Limerick feels a bit frayed, Fado is much more what one wag dubbed “Disneyland.” There’s plenty of stained glass and metal handiwork, with an obvious love of detail.

Alas, the menu didn’t show the same love. The Irish breakfast scored many points with over-easy eggs, tasty soda bread, black-and-white pudding that was meaty and satisfying and sausage that virtually caressed the tongue.

In contrast, the American breakfast suffered from stone-cold eggs and soggy hash browns. In all fairness, a manager was quick to address food and service issues. The place almost feels more like a sports bar than anything else—they open eyeachingly early on weekends for the soccer games across the pond.

And if you go there, don’t get too attached to the surroundings. A full-on remodeling to be done by summer will include a covered patio and a substantial reshaping of the interior, with brighter colors and fewer knickknacks.

Keegan’s—Kennesaw, Woodstock and Vinings

keegansirishpub.net

There’s nothing superspecial about the décor, nor is the menu particularly heavy with Irish food. What will keep you coming back again and again are the Irish Spring Rolls, wontons stuffed with lean corned beef and cabbage and Swiss cheese.

Served with a side of Thousand Island Dressing, they whet the appetite for a pint quite nicely. They’re perfect as a small plate, but should they arrive as an appetizer for the crew, grab them quickly or you’ll be left out.

Venice

May 3 from $2,499pp

• 12 nt. Venice to Barcelona

May 10 from $4,199pp

Quick Bites

VIÊTVANA PhÕ Noodle House has opened its second Atlanta location at Square on Fifth at 848 Spring St. in Midtown. Husband and wife team Dinh Tran and Khanh Dang, who also operate the original restaurant in Avondale Estates with a third under construction in Duluth, have created their own phÕ noodle and banh mi bread inspired by what they enjoyed in Saigon and regions across Vietnam. For more information, visit vietvana.com.

The Chastain, a new restaurant from Executive Chef Christopher Grossman, will open this summer in the former Horseradish Grill space at 4320 Powers Ferry Road. Grossman’s partner and co-owner Geno Dew, who most recently served as general manager of Atlas, will be general manager and help oversee the restaurant’s wine program. The menu is described at “new American” with local ingredients and seasonal harvest to create dishes ranging from classic favorites to inventive new takes. For more, visit thechastainatl.com.

►Wahlburgers, created by musicians/ actors Donnie and Mark Wahlberg, has opened its second metro location in Downtown at 218 Peachtree St. across from Hard Rock Café. First opened in 2011 in Boston and the subject of a hit reality television show, the burger chain already has an outpost The Battery. For more, visit wahlburgers.com.

The 5th annual Atlanta Brunch Fest will be held Saturday, March 7, noon to 4 p.m. at Atlantic Station’s event space at 241 20th

St. More than 60 restaurants will be participating in the event and they will all bring their tastiest brunch items for the crowd to sample. Samples will all be priced at $3 and paid directly to the vendors. There will be Bloody Mary’s, mimosas, Brunch Punch, as well as a selection of beer, wine, cider and hard seltzer to choose from. A live band and everyone’s favorite DJ Q-Tip will get the crowd moving. The list of restaurants and menu items are continuously being added to the website at atlantabrunchfestival.com, where you can also purchase tickets.

Tickets are now on sale for the Edgewood Mac & Cheese Festival, a volunteer-organized event that will take place in Atlanta’s Edgewood neighborhood on Arkwright Place SE on March 28 from 1 to 5:30 p.m. After a three-year hiatus, the festival is on track to be bigger and better than ever, with a celebrity-judged mac & cheese competition, live music, kid-friendly activities and entertainment, and beverages and food trucks. Participating restaurants include El Tesoro, Revival, Jen Chan’s Supper Club, New Realm Brewing Company, Dish Dive, Wisteria, Ray’s in the City, Argosy, BQE Lounge, and Arby’s, who is also a premier sponsor for the event. Tickets are $20 per person, which includes unlimited samples of mac & cheese. All proceeds will benefit Neighbor In Need, a volunteer-run organization committed to allowing longtime Edgewood residents to ‘age in place’ by providing transformative home repairs.

►The 2nd annual Bloody Mary Festival will take place at The Fairmont on Sunday, March 15, from noon to 3:30 p.m. Tickets to the festival include participating Bloody Marys, tastes of local food and beverage products, temporary tattoos, photo ops and one vote for The People’s Choice Award. Tickets are $47.50 (1 p.m. entry) and VIP tickets are $62.50 (noon entry). For more information and to purchase tickets, visit thebloodymaryfest.com/atlanta-3-15-20.