SUSTAINABILITY
Energy resilience near the Arctic Circle The water was deliciousocean along the floor of the Atly warm and welcoming as I lantic. This seam in the Earth’s eased my jet-lagged body into crust separates massive slabs of the pearly Blue Lagoon, rich solid rock known as the North in silica and other minerals. In American, Eurasian, and Afrithe distance, I could see steam can tectonic plates. Slowly, they billowing from the geothermove — along with the contimal power plant that provides nents that ride them — a fact the water source for this luxury that was finally accepted by scispa: a nice side benefit from the entists in the 1960s. industry that has helped transCreated fairly recently, geoform Iceland into one of the logically speaking, from erupmost energy-resilient countries tions over a hotspot of molten in the world. rock, Iceland is the only place While a spa like the Blue in the world where it’s possible Lagoon is a modern-day de- BY SALLY BETHEA to stand on dry land between velopment, Icelanders have two continental plates — as we enjoyed soaking in geotherdid in Thingvellir. Here, the mally warm, even hot, water since the naNorth American and Eurasian plates are tion’s settlement by Viking explorers in the drifting apart an inch every year. (Geophys9th century. The cultural tradition continicists have compared this to the rate that ues today. There are nearly fifty natural hot fingernails grow.) I’m still pondering our springs and hundreds of geothermally heatexperience at this natural wonder, where we ed swimming pools for the country’s popviewed gorges, fissures, and waterfalls creatulation (370,000) — and increasing numed by extreme subsurface geologic mayhem. bers of tourists. Last year, a volcanic eruption about On a trip to Iceland with my family in twenty-five miles southwest of Iceland’s early July, we found a spectacularly beaucapital city, Reykjavik, lasted for six months tiful country that conveys a sense of calm and drew hundreds of thousands of tourand community. Preparing for the trip, I ists to view the glowing magma and lava read about the island nation’s history and flows. It was the sixth volcanic eruption in characteristics: the tough resilience of Icethe country in the past two decades. With landers; commitment to equality, inclusion, a mixture of disappointment and relief, we and justice; love of literature and storytelldidn’t feel a single tremor during our time ing; strong education and health systems; in the country. lack of violent crime; and responsive govFrom Fossil Fuels to Geothermal ernment. At the turn of the 20th century, Iceland Yes, the winters are long and very dark; was one of Western Europe’s poorest counthe weather is chilly even in the summer; tries, dependent upon peat and coal for its and you can expect fiery, volcanic erupenergy. Until the early 1970s, the largest tions somewhere in the country every four share of the country’s energy consumption to five years, on average. However, the was derived from imported fossil fuels. In much-proclaimed health and happiness of its isolated location — thirty miles below its residents seem to outweigh these “inthe Arctic Circle — the country needed a conveniences”— at least to Iceland’s proud, stable and secure domestic energy source to hard-working people. avoid oil price fluctuations caused by crises in the world energy markets. Innovation, Geography and Geology transparency, public engagement, and a soIn Thingvellir National Park, we walked lutions-based mindset focused on local rethrough the rift valley that marks the crest sources led the way. of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge: the (mostly) Today, Iceland is the world’s largest per underwater mountain chain located midcapita producer of green energy and electric
Iceland’s Blue Lagoon with the geothermal plant in the background. (Photo by Sally Betha)
ABOVE THE WATER LINE
power. Its residents enjoy a high standard of living. Eighty-five percent of the country’s primary energy supply comes from domestic renewable resources: hydro (glacial rivers and waterfalls) and geothermal (underground steam and hot water). The main use of geothermal energy is for space heating, distributed to buildings — including 90% of Icelandic homes — through extensive networks of pipes. Fresh vegetables are grown through the cold, dark winters in geothermally heated and lighted greenhouses, as the power of volcanoes is transformed into tomatoes, lettuce, peppers, and mushrooms.
Embracing Innovation and the Future Despite its small size, homogeneous population, and vast geological assets, Iceland offers a model — certainly inspiration — for how to make a swift transition from fossil fuels to sustainable power sources. Its transportation and fishing industries still rely primarily on oil; however, electric vehicles are booming. Seventy percent of new cars in Iceland are EV or hybrid. Responsive, in the 1990s, to the needs of its economy and its people, the government moved quickly to expand its renew-
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able portfolio with funding (research and exploration) and incentives for homeowners and energy-intensive industries. No incrementalism. No (apparent) deference to well-funded fossil fuel lobbyists. No single individual, like coal baron and U.S. Senator Joe Manchin, to thwart change to put hefty profits ahead of prosperous, healthy lives for future generations. Instead, the country employed a seemingly open, solutions-oriented approach to do what appeared to be best for everyone: big business and small farmers. While local conditions determine which renewable resources are most efficient and cost-effective, Iceland’s success story is impressive. It is remarkable that, for such a small nation with limited financial resources at the time, it made the bold (some might say risky) decision to move away from fossil fuels. A green transformation continues to unfold as Iceland’s leaders embrace change and innovation. Winters may be long and dark, but the country’s future looks bright with cheaper power costs, energy security, and a growing economy. As has been the tradition for more than a thousand years, communal hot springs continue to bring Icelanders and visitors together to calm body and mind.
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