5 minute read
Houseplant
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Myersii). It has the characteristic “tactile, firework-y plumes,” but its new foliage starts out stark white. Mr. Gercens first saw one at the Philadelphia Flower Show maybe 15 years ago, and finally scored a piece big enough to fill a four-inch pot eight years ago.
Now it’s in a container many times that size — but he chose one with a crack, so he won’t mind losing it. The asparagus fern’s thick roots swell according to how much water it gets; a tight fit can suddenly become too tight.
“Never put them in a container you love, because they will blow that pot up,” Mr. Gercens warned.
“new” species — Zamioculcas made its way into the trade only in the 1990s — Mr. Gercens touts an improved version, called Raven or Dowon, whose young green foliage ages to purplish black.
Recounting stories of past fads, like the Victorian orchidomania, when the latest plants were for the wealthy only, he mused about how high-tech propagation methods have changed that for many plants, including Raven.
“It is unusual, but I’m not going to call it rare,” he said. “It could have been rare, but it has been propagated to the point that really anybody can have one. Never has such an unusual plant been available to everyone at one time.” not dense; try squeezing the bag for an indication of its texture.
Then do some amending. Mix that potting soil with as much as 50 percent of an even more porous material, he suggested, like bagged orchid bark or a potting soil labeled for orchids, to achieve the improved air circulation that roots are happiest in.
Next: What are you watering with? Tap water that has been softened for household use is not suitable for plants, as it often contains excess salts. If you have a softener, use water from a tap that doesn’t flow through the device.
The best choice, Mr. Gercens said, is rainwater. That gives you another reason to set up a rain barrel (or at least set out a bucket).
•
A ‘zz plant’ of a different color
One of the breakout plants of the internet houseplant craze has been Zamioculcas zamiifolia, known as the “ZZ plant.” This aroid family member withstands low light and low humidity, and is among the toughest of the tough.
But even with a relatively
• The basics: soil, water, fertilizer — and a good rinse
Those of us who want improved results need to get our houseplant basics down.
First assignments: “Finding a trusted potting mix,” Mr. Gercens said, and checking your water source.
Not all bagged soil is created equal. A good growing medium is light and fluffy,
Whatever the source, deliver water to plants at room temperature, not cold.
Mr. Gercens advises doing a small amount of fertilizing year-round — a tactic often called “weekly, weakly” — to promote consistent growth. Apply a liquid feed at half the strength recommended on the label. Fertilizer can be another source of harmful salt buildup, though, so remember to flush out the pots periodically.
“We are all fearful of water escaping the tray and getting onto the floor or carpet,” Mr. Gercens said, “so we just give them a little bit of water each time. We really never leach the soil of all those excess salts.”
He is the kind of dinner guest who will scan your terra-cotta pots for signs of crusty buildup. If it’s present, he’ll tell you how to correct it, and how to clean photosynthesis-inhibiting grime off the foliage: Everybody into the shower for a good rinse.
• Downsizing: stern cutbacks and smaller quarters
Struggling plants, or those that have outgrown the space or pots you can accommodate, should be slated for pruning, repotting or both in early spring, “as growth is beginning,” Mr. Gercens said. “You want plants to be on the upswing when doing that.”
Are some too tall, stretched out or straggly? A hard cutback near the base can rejuvenate many, including Pothos (Epipremnum), various Ficus, spineless yucca (Yucca elephantipes), Schefflera and corn plant. But go carefully: Palms and cycads won’t rebound.
With succulents, including Schlumbergera and jade plant (Crassula ovata), tip pruning is recommended. Let the cuttings sit a few days so the ends form a callous and then root them, yielding fresh new plants.
When to pot up to bigger quarters is probably obvious, but plants displaying weak growth may actually need a smaller pot to thrive. “A too-large pot can hold onto unnecessary moisture and cause root rot,” Mr. Gercens said.
In that case, unpot the plant, tease the excess soil off the roots, and then prune them a bit before replanting the vigorous divisions in a pot, or pots, of fresh soil.
“So many times people are afraid to cut the roots,” he said.
But as with his plant choices, he’s clear on this: Go ahead and dare.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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