Wild Connections

By Heather Greenwood Davis

Curious animals play with tourists in the waters off Kaikoura.

From the deck of the ship, the Pacific Ocean looks serene. Gentle waves make it hard to believe that there’s an entire marine population at work below the surface. But there is, and I’m moments away from meeting at least a few of them nose to nose.

EXCURSION IN KAIKOURA, NEW ZELAND

I’m in Kaikoura – a quaint town on the eastern coast of the South Island of New Zealand – aboard a boat whose only purpose is to show the value and beauty of that underwater world to tourists like me. Wearing a less-than-flattering black wet suit, mask, snorkel and fins, I wiggle my way to the edge of the boat platform. My guide, who will stay on the boat, offers a thumbs-up. I return the signal, take a deep breath and slip in to the water.

I’m immediately surrounded by bubbles. The water is a murky green from below and I can only see about a foot in front of me. Sometimes I sense movement nearby but not being able to see what it is proves unnerving. My heart is racing. The hope here is for Dusky dolphins. The playful animals are a little over a metre long and full of energy. They hang out in these waters in large pods and delight locals and tourists alike with their ability to propel themselves out of the water into flips and twirls. They are the gymnasts of the ocean and the opportunity to meet them up close is virtually guaranteed. Or at least it was before the earthquake hit.

AERIAL VIEW OF KAIKOURA COASTLINE

The key to Kaikoura’s plentiful marine life lies in the Kaikoura Canyon – a roughly 1,200-metre-deep chasm about a half kilometre offshore. It is credited with sustaining the blue penguins, fur seals, more than six species of whales and others that call the area home. So, in 2016, when a 7.8 magnitude quake shook the area, environmentalists feared the worst.

When it was over, the ocean floor had risen as much as 5.5 metres in some areas, the marina was destroyed and the main highway connecting the town to Christchurch was impassable. It would be more than a year before roads could be repaired and reopened and there was a fear that the area might not bounce back. Along with the loss of homes, businesses and human life, animal habitats were disrupted and destroyed, and scientists weren’t sure what they’d find when the aftershocks subsided.

FUR SEALS

But never underestimate the determination of Kiwis.

The town is well on its way to reclaiming its position in the world as a tourism haven and its marine life is proving to be just as resilient. The changed coastline is part of the new Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway which starts in town and ventures out to offer new views of the resident seal colonies and more. But under the water is still where the magic happens. As I swim, ominous shadows turn into grey dolphins and their curious nature has me yelping and squealing into my mask. When I pop my head out of the water in excitement, friends on board the boat remind me to hum as dolphins are attracted to sound vibrations in the water. I do and suddenly there are a half dozen dolphins circling below and alongside me.

VIEW OF SOUTH BAY FROM KAIKOURA PENINSULA

I begin to swim in circles – another tip from those on the boat - and the animals like that too. For a good 30 minutes, I make myself dizzy in the water trying to keep them happy. They are as curious about me as I am about them. They come ever closer and only flinch when I do.

SNORKELLING WITH THE DOLPHINS

Back on the boat, still giddy from the encounter, awe turns to excitement when there’s a splash, and then several more, in the waters alongside the boat. I follow the sounds and wait. Suddenly, a pod with about 60 dolphins are dancing in rhythmic unison in the air alongside us. It’s like watching a ballet. I gasp, and though it feels silly to have tears in my eyes, they are there. Part shock at the incredible display and part gratitude for the opportunity to witness it. When my eyes lock with my fellow travellers, local and tourist alike, I can see my own excitement reflected in theirs.

When asked if I’d like to go back in to the water, I don’t hesitate to get my fins on. Then, softly humming, I head off to meet my friends.

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