ASTERN OUR GREEK ODYSSEY

of the shed were some charcoal barbecues and above, what looked like a clothes-line. The man cooking would periodically reach up to the line with a stick and bring down something to the BBQ. It was squid which had dried in the sun. But when over the coals it seemed to squirm. He cut it up with what looked like secateurs and put it on a plate. I still don’t know what marinade he used but that squid, washed down with fresh Retsina was just delicious. The buses stop running at sunset so he had set up an alfresco Taverna using the seat at the adjacent bus stop, in front of which he placed a small metal table. A perfect setting!

Mykonos

Mykonos is very popular because as Jonno Farmer pointed out; it is beautiful: The windmills and colourful buildings with waves breaking gently against the rocks at their base and also the beach and bay where the film ‘Shirley Valentine’ was made. The houses are painted white and blue with bougainvillea climbing up the walls. The little alleyways just wide enough for a hand cart or donkey.

Serifos

Serifos is about half way between Mykonos and Hydra. This particular day there was no wind. The sea was glassy and the sun rays penetrated straight down to the depths. Dolphins danced on their tails to entertain us as we motored along. There was a strange sea mist hanging around Serifos and it gave the island a weird appearance in the distance. I pictured huge sea creatures; but they morphed into rocky promontories and headlands as we approached. It is easy to imagine how Greek mythology and legends came about.

HYDRA

The main harbour of Hydra is very small and being a popular ‘touristy’ spot was overcrowded so we anchored nearby in Mandraki and paddled ashore to the fishermen’s wharf where there was a taverna. By this time it was dark. The taverna owner had been fishing for whitebait using a light and scoop net and putting his catch into an enamel bowl on the wharf. This was being guarded by a large fluffy cat which lay with its forelegs around the bowl and nose on the edge. The rules were clear: He was not allowed to pinch anything from the bowl but if any actually jumped out, they were his! By the way, whitebait cooked in garlic oil like the prawns we used to get at the ‘Witches Cauldron’ are delicious. Life on Hydra is slower than most because the only traffic is by bicycle with hand cart or donkey for loads. There were no trees on the island because they had all been cut down to build ‘ships’ generations earlier.

(It is interesting that in February 2023 a travel documentary showed a major tree planting project on the island of Hydra. The transformation is quite remarkable. At last an individual not a government, is taking steps to correct about a thousand years or so exploitation and neglect.)

Tilos

Our first visit to Tilos was in half a gale and there was no way anyone could moor at the main wharf. One of the local men directed us to the other end of the bay where there was a kaiki harbour (kaikis are small local fishing boats). He drove quickly in his small truck and met us there. He then re-moored some kaikis to make room for us to moor bow and stern inside the sheltered area. To get ashore we had to use our rubber duck propelled by pulling ourselves along under the line to the wharf. There were no facilities there and the nearest taverna was about 500 metres back around the bay. When we walked in and asked what food was available the lady indicated there was only her husband’s ‘special dish’. As far as we could make out this was a ‘perpetual’ stew. That is to say a huge pot on the stove into which they threw a goat and a heap of local vegetables and herbs. As the level in the pot went down they just added another goat and more veg etc. It was delicious; those Greeks really know how to cook! From then on we always asked: What is your special dish?

Niseros

The island of Niseros is basically square; a ‘mostly dormant’ volcano. People actually live inside the crater at the top farming, oblivious to the smell of sulphur coming from cracks in the shaky ground. Having managed to moor our yacht in Mandraki harbour Jenny and I went for a long walk. It was getting dark as we walked through the village and tavernas were opening up. As we talked a voice with a very ozzy accent behind us said: ‘Ullo, can I offer you people something nice to eat’? I turned to see a lady aged about 30 standing in the doorway of a taverna. I asked: ‘Where do you come from? Melbourne?’. She replied ‘Nah Fremantle!’ Stella was born in Fremantle, went to school there but when her grandmother died she had to go back to Niseros to run the family taverna. And it was nice to eat!

Agothannissis

A few days later we approached Agothannissis but were unable to start the motor. This meant we had to sail into the wharf, drop the sails and get lines ashore all at once without running up on the rocks. Fortunately a man on the wharf caught Jenny’s bow line and secured it for us. He then introduced himself as George (it had to be George!). He said he had a taverna and we must come and eat there that evening. It was good: Grilled fish. When it came to paying I gave George a handful of Dracma which made him quite excited saying: ‘This all for me? You very generous man’. I was very generous. It transpired I had misplaced the decimal point and had given him ten times the amount required. But he was an honest Greek gentleman and laughingly returned the surplus.

Next day needing to replenish some supplies, we walked up the hill to the Chora (a Chora is the main village, remote from the harbour so that it is better defended from marauding pirates). It was Nanna Nap time so everything was all closed up. We sat in the square and waited. Eventually doors and shutters opened and ladies came out to chat and to sweep away imaginary leaves. One lady, seeing us sitting patiently walked over to a nearby tree and broke off a small branch laden with bright green fruit. She came to us and said: ‘Froot, froot, you have’. We could not refuse despite the evil green colour. As we walked back down the hill with the branch over my shoulder we found that we had acquired a small herd of goats apparently trying to get at the ‘froot’. This ‘froot’ turned out to be some type of plum and despite the colour, was fully ripe and delicious.

SAMOS

A few days later we were at the harbour of Pythagorion on Samos. Again we were met by a man who said ‘My name is George (of course). You need fuel? Water? Rent motor car? I am also travel agent so can arrange for you to go to Ephesus.’ I replied that actually we only needed water whereupon he walked across the wharf to a nice little boutique and giving the pretty owner a kiss, produced a hose which he dragged across to the boat. After we had filled the tanks and paid him he said ‘Good; I am also Harbour Master. Now you bring ship’s papers to my office down there and pay the fee.’

Kalimnos

At Kalimnos there is a fascinating little harbour called Vathi. It is like a fjord, several hundred metres long, very narrow and with steep sides. At the end is a small land backed wharf which can take about three yachts. It had been recommended by some friends that we eat at the taverna on the left (or was it the right?), and to mention their name. Actually, there were three tavernas so we started on the left with snacks, ouzo and retsina. No! That was not it, so we moved on to the centre one: BBQ squid, ouzo and retsina. That wasn’t it either so we moved on to the one on the right: Our host was all over us; sat and chatted with us while we shared several more retsina and ate a third course. As we parted he asked where our boat was moored and promised to bring us some cakes for breakfast. Next morning, we were woken from a fog by ‘himself’ with a large box of baklava-type sweet- cakes swimming in honey. Just what my stomach needed at that stage. Anyone reading this would be forgiven for thinking that I am of the type who does not eat to live but rather one who lives to eat! That is probably not far wrong.

LEMNOS

My most profound memory of Greek generosity is of an occasion some years later when we found ourselves unexpectedly on the island of Lemnos. It was mid-afternoon and we had just arrived from Turkey. Looking for somewhere to stay we walked across the wharf with our luggage to an Hotel where we explained our circumstances. We had no Greek money and the bank was closed. We needed an ATM or something. The hotelier said ‘No matter, you come and see our nice rooms. You choose. But for money, the bank is not open and I think ATM is out of order. How much money you need? I will lend you.’ We did find an ATM at the other end of the town so his generosity was not needed. The following day we asked if he knew how we could rent a car for the day. Within ten minutes a lady appeared with a set of car keys and pointed to a near new Suzuki outside. I asked about papers, deposit or whatever and she replied: ‘No need, you have nice faces, you are from Australia.’ We spent several days exploring that island and the bay where the base hospital and adjacent cemetery had been established during the Gallipoli debacle in the ‘Great War’. A very poignant episode.

There have been many occasions such as these and too numerous to write about here. Maybe more later!